Cosmetic composition comprising cationic surfactants, solid fats, polyols and liquid fatty esters, in a specific weight ratio, and cosmetic processing method

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, particularly for hair, comprising cationic surfactants, solid fats, polyols and liquid fatty esters, in a weight ratio between polyols and liquid fatty esters of between 0.5 and 3. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, particularly for cleaning and / or conditioning, of keratinous materials, particularly hair, using said composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising cationic surfactants, solid fats, polyols and liquid fatty esters, in a particular weight ratio, and cosmetic processing method

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for hair, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, one or more solid fats, one or more polyols, and one or more liquid fatty esters. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for keratinous materials, particularly hair, using said composition.

[0002] Hair can generally be damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and inclement weather, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening, or even repeated washing. Hair thus becomes damaged by these various factors and can eventually become dry, rough, brittle or dull, particularly in fragile areas, and especially at the ends.

[0003] Thus, to remedy these drawbacks, it is common to use hair care compositions specifically designed to condition the hair by providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties. These hair care compositions may be, for example, conditioners, masks, or serums, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions, and conditioning creams of varying thicknesses.

[0004] It is also known to use conditioner-type compositions comprising cationic surfactants, solid fats, polyols, and liquid fatty esters. However, the polyol content is generally significantly higher than that of liquid fatty esters, leading to unsatisfactory cosmetic properties.

[0005] These compositions can be further improved, particularly with regard to the cosmetic properties imparted to the hair; in particular, compositions providing a high level of cosmeticity to the hair are sought, including a smooth feel and improved coating, as well as a notable strengthening of the fiber, especially of damaged hair.

[0006] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in order to help address Global challenges make it essential to offer more sustainable formulations that address these environmental issues. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic formulations with a low carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or those with a high naturalness index and / or of natural origin, especially plant-based ingredients, while reducing the use of petrochemical-derived compounds.

[0007] There is therefore a real need to develop cosmetic compositions, particularly for hair, which are capable of giving hair, especially damaged hair, improved cosmetic properties.

[0008] The aim of the present invention is to propose a composition and a process for treating keratinous materials which provide a high level of cosmetic performance, particularly for damaged hair.

[0009] This objective is achieved with the present invention, which therefore relates in particular to a cosmetic composition, especially for hair, comprising:

[0010] - one or more cationic surfactants,

[0011] - one or more solid fats,

[0012] - one or more polyols, and

[0013] - one or more liquid fatty esters,

[0014] wherein the weight ratio between the total quantity of polyol(s) and the total quantity of liquid fatty ester(s) is between 0.5 and 3.

[0015] The composition according to the invention therefore makes it possible to provide advantageous cosmetic properties to hair, in particular damaged hair, such as suppleness, softness, a smooth visual and tactile character, ease of detangling, particularly on the most damaged hair.

[0016] The composition according to the invention provides a very good level of suppleness and lightness to the keratin fibers: the hair is more supple, less stiff; the hair has more movement, bounce, and appears more natural. The softening of the hair is particularly noticeable on wet hair: after application of the composition, the hair instantly becomes supple, fluid, and smooth under water. It appears more transformed and treated.

[0017] A smooth feel and a certain softness of the hair are also observed, as well as a homogeneity of the coating and texture of the keratin fibers, from root to tip. The hair appears more regular and has a particularly homogeneous coating, an absence of roughness to the touch, and the irregularities of the damaged cuticles are no longer perceptible to the touch; the smoothness of the hair is both visual and tactile, the hair therefore appears to be repaired.

[0018] Moreover, the composition according to the invention has improved performance qualities; in particular, it spreads easily on the hair, from root to tip, and has a melting character and a thick, non-greasy and non-sticky texture.

[0019] Advantageously, the composition includes little or no silicone; thus silicones may be totally absent from the composition (0%), which is then said to be "silicone free", or be present in a content less than or equal to 2% by weight, better less than or equal to 1% by weight, even better less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] By silicone, we mean any compound comprising at least one Si-O bond, such as, for example, amino silicones, dimethiconols, polydialkylsiloxanes, well known to those skilled in the art, and among which we can cite, by way of example, the compounds having the INCI names Amodimethicone and Dimethicone.

[0021] In this application, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0022] - by "keratinous materials" means keratinous fibers (in particular the hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails) as well as the skin of the body and face, including the scalp;

[0023] - the term "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and can be substituted; and

[0024] - the boundaries of a domain of values ​​are included in that domain, in particular in the expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ...", expressions which can be substituted for one another. Cationic surfactants

[0025] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants.

[0026] Said cationic surfactants are non-siliconized, that is to say they do not contain a Si-O group.

[0027] They are preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, or their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0028] The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0029] - compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II): in which:

[0030] X is an anion in particular chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates;

[0031] the groups Ri to R4, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Ri to R4 designating an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0032] Aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. Aliphatic groups are, for example, selected from the following Ci-C30 alkyl groups: Ci-C30 alkyl, Ci-C30 alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, Ci-C30 alkylamide, C2-C6 alkyl(C2-C6)amidoalkyl, C2-C6 alkyl(C2-C22)acetate, and Ci-C30 hydroxyalkyl.

[0033] Among quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), tetraalkylammonium salts such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts are preferred, in which the alkyl group comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; as well as palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium salts such as those marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK.

[0034] In particular, the chloride, bromide or methylsulfate salts of these compounds are preferred.

[0035] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III): R -p (III) ,THIS C ...... 1 x c—c ' HJ in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group, or an alkenyl or alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group, and X is a chosen anion in the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms respectively.

[0036] Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes a methyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0037] Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

[0038] - quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts in particular of formula (IV): in which

[0039] R9 designates an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly hydroxylated and / or possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

[0040] Rio is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (R9a)(R10a)(Riia)N-(CH2)3 group, with R9a, RiOa, Rna, Ru, R12, Rb and R14, identical or different, selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0041] X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.

[0042] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

[0043] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V): (CA0)r FU (V) OK " 1 n 1 +. FU in which:

[0044] Rb is selected from among the Ci-C6 alkyl groups and the Ci-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

[0045] Rie is chosen from the R19-C(O)- group; the R20 groups which are C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom,

[0046] Ri8 is chosen from the R21-C(O)- group; the R22 groups which are Ci-C6 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; the hydrogen atom;

[0047] Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

[0048] r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

[0049] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0050] x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

[0051] X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic;

[0052] provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then Ri6 denotes R20 and that when z is 0 then R[8 denotes R22.

[0053] The alkyl groups R15 can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R15 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0054] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

[0055] When R[6 is a hydrocarbon R20 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0056] When R[8 is a hydrocarbon R22 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0057] Advantageously, Rn, Ri9 and R2[, identical or different, are chosen from among the Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from the Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0058] Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0059] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0060] Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0061] Anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide, or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion with an ester function may be used. Anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0062] In the composition according to the invention, ammonium salts of formula (V) in which Ri5 designates a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2; Ri6 is chosen from the R19-C(O)- group, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom; R[8 is chosen from the R21-C(O)- group and the hydrogen atom; R[7, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from the C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from the C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0063] Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0064] Examples include compounds of formula (V) such as salts (in particular chloride or methyl sulfate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.

[0065] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylated with C10-C30 fatty acids or mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin, or glycerol.

[0066] Such compounds are marketed for example under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

[0067] The hair composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

[0068] Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180 patents can also be used.

[0069] The behenoylhydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium chloride offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.

[0070] Preferably ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0071] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one usable ester function, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium salts are preferred.

[0072] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylated, or their salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30.

[0073] Preferably, the useful fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0074] Fatty amines include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0075] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0076] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0077] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0078] Among the useful fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may be made of amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR”N(R')2(VI) in which:

[0079] - R represents a monovalent linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched, or a C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched;

[0080] - R' ' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 atoms of carbon, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0081] Fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are, for example, selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0082] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0083] The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; better still from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; even better from those of formula (II) above.

[0084] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen from, alone or in mixture, salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic surfactant(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better from 0.5 to 7% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. solid fats

[0087] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more solid fats. This or these fats are non-siliconized (do not contain Si-O bonds).

[0088] The term “solid” means that the compound has a melting point strictly greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0089] Solid fats can be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0090] Advantageously, the solid fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0091] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, they are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0092] The solid fatty acids usable in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0094] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure with R designating a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better 12 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0095] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated monoalcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0096] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen from, alone or in mixture, myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0097] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof such as cetostearyl alcohol; better, the solid fatty alcohol is cetostearyl alcohol.

[0098] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol, different from the liquid fatty esters above; better, they are chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0099] Preferably, the solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0100] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0101] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0102] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from solid fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, and more preferably from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0103] In a particularly preferred manner, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0104] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, having a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. In a way In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition containing them a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by returning the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0105] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

[0106] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, absolute flower waxes; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0107] Other examples include C2 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW. Also noteworthy is PM 500 polyethylene wax, marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0108] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32.

[0109] Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0110] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0111] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the name "Kester Wax". K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0112] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;

[0113] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0114] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0115] Particularly preferred compounds include 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide of cetyl acid and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

[0116] Preferably, the solid fats are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] Better still, the solid fats are chosen from, alone or in mixture, saturated monoalcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; esters of saturated carboxylic acid, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated monoalcohol, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the saturated carboxylic acids being optionally hydroxylated.

[0118] Even better, the composition according to the invention comprises both one or more saturated monoalcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, having from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; and one or more esters of saturated carboxylic acid, linear or branched, having at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated monoalcohol, linear or branched, having at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the saturated carboxylic acids being optionally hydroxylated.

[0119] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the solid fat(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight, better from 2 to 18% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, better still from 4 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0120] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the solid fat(s) selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 18% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 4 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyols

[0121] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more polyols.

[0122] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) preferably on different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0123] The polyols according to the invention are different from the solid fatty alcohols previously described.

[0124] More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups. Preferably, they comprise from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0125] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are selected from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof; preferably from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof; and even better from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.

[0126] The polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] The polyol(s) selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, better of 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably of 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] Preferably, glycerin may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition Liquid fatty esters

[0129] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty esters.

[0130] The term "liquid" means that the compound has a melting point less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the In this application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0131] The term "fatty" means that the compound (in particular an alcohol, acid, or ester) comprises at least one hydrocarbon chain of 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 32 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted, for example, by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0132] By "ester" is meant, in the usual way, an ester of carboxylic acid and alcohol.

[0133] The liquid fatty esters are non-siliconized (do not include Si-O bonds). They are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0134] Liquid fatty esters are advantageously different from triglyceride-type oils (glycerol triester), particularly of vegetable or synthetic origin.

[0135] The liquid fatty acid ester(s) that may be used in the context of the present invention are preferably fatty acid esters, in particular C1-C40 carboxylic acid esters, especially C2-C32, even better C3-C28, or even C4-C22 (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), said acid being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted, for example, by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups.

[0136] Said carboxylic acid may be a mono- or a poly-acid, preferably a mono-acid.

[0137] Said carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said acid is not substituted.

[0138] Advantageously, said carboxylic acid is a mono-acid, linear or branched, saturated (and not substituted) at C1-C40, in particular at C2-C32, even better at C3-C28, or even at C4-C22.

[0139] In particular, said acid may be a linear saturated (unsubstituted) monoacid in C8-C22, especially in C10-C20, or even in C12-C18, or branched in C3-C11, better in C4-C10, or even in C5-C9.

[0140] The liquid fatty ester(s) that may be used in the context of the present invention are preferably C1-C40 carboxylic acid and alcohol esters, in particular C2-C32, even better C3-C28, or even C4-C22 (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), said alcohol being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted.

[0141] Said alcohol may be a mono-alcohol or a polyol, preferably a mono-alcohol.

[0142] Said alcohol may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. preferably, the said alcohol is not substituted.

[0143] Advantageously, said alcohol is a mono-alcohol, linear or branched, saturated (and not substituted) at C1-C40, in particular at C2-C32, even better at C3-C28, or even at C4-C22.

[0144] In particular, said alcohol may be a linear saturated (non-substituted) mono-alcohol in C8-C22, especially in C10-C20, or even in C12-C18, or branched in C3-C15, better in C3-C13, or even in C3-C9.

[0145] Thus, the liquid fatty esters that can be used within the framework of the present invention are advantageously, alone or in mixture, esters of carboxylic acid in C1-C40, in particular in C2-C32, even better in C3-C28, or even in C4-C22 (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), said acid being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted, for example by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups; and of alcohol in C1-C40, in particular in C2-C32, even better in C3-C28, or even in C4-C22 (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), said alcohol being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted; preferably at least one of the alcohol or the acid being branched.

[0146] Among the liquid fatty esters that may be used, mention may be made in particular of the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0147] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid is branched.

[0148] Preferably, the esters of linear or branched monoacids saturated (and not substituted) at C1-C40, in particular at C2-C32, even better at C3-C28, or even at C4-C22, and of linear or branched monoalcohols saturated at C1-C40, in particular at C2-C32, even better at C3-C28, or even at C4-C22, at least one of the alcohol or acid being branched.

[0149] Advantageously, one may cite the esters of linear saturated (unsubstituted) monoacid in C8-C22, especially in C10-C20, or even in C12-C18, or branched in C3-C11, better in C4-C10, or even in C5-C9; and of linear saturated (unsubstituted) monoalcohol in C8-C22, especially in C10-C20, or even in C12-C18, or branched in C3-C15, better in C3-C13, or even in C3-C9; at least one of the alcohol or acid being branched.

[0150] In particular, one can cite, alone or in mixtures, the following:

[0151] - ethyl, isopropyl, isostearyl, ethyl-2-hexyl or 2- octyldecyl;

[0152] - isopropyl or ethyl myristates,

[0153] - isoamyl, isocetyl or 2-hexyldecyl laurates

[0154] - isononyl, isotridecyl, cetearyl, octyl or 2-ethyl isononanoates hexyl,

[0155] - isodecyl or isostearyl neopentanates,

[0156] - ethyl-2-hexyl, isocetyl or isobutyl stearates.

[0157] - isostearyl, isocetyl, or isodecyl octanoates;

[0158] - decyl or isodecyl oleates;

[0159] - isocetyl isostearate;

[0160] - octyldodecyl or oleyl erucates.

[0161] - octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate;

[0162] - isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, lactate of oleyl.

[0163] Preferably, the liquid fatty ester(s) may be selected from liquid esters of C12-C18 carboxylic acid and C1-C5 alcohol.

[0164] Among said liquid esters of C12-C18 carboxylic acid and Cl-C5 alcohol, we may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids, linear in C12-C18 or branched in C12-C18, and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, linear in C1-C5 or branched in C3-C5.

[0165] Preferably, one or more esters of C12-C18 monocarboxylic acid and C1-C5 monoalcohol are used.

[0166] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched, preferably the alcohol.

[0167] Better, one or more liquid esters of linear monocarboxylic acid in C12-C18, especially in C14-16, and of branched monoalcohol in C3-C5, especially in C3, are used.

[0168] In particular, mention may be made of liquid esters of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid, and of C1-C5 monoalcohol, in particular of C3-C5 branched monoalcohol, and in particular isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl stearate and mixtures thereof.

[0169] Even better, the liquid fatty ester(s) are selected from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0170] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the liquid fatty ester(s) in a total quantity of 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular 0.2 to 5% by weight, better 0.5 to 4% by weight, even better 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the liquid fatty ester(s) of saturated or unsaturated mono- or polyaliphatic acids, linear in C1-C26 or branched in C3-C26, and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or polyaliphatic alcohols, linear in C1-C26 or branched in C3-C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better from 0.5 to 4% by weight, even better from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] Better, the composition according to the invention comprises the liquid fatty ester(s) of linear C8-C22 saturated (unsubstituted) monoacid, in particular C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C11, better C4-C10, or even C5-C9; and of linear C8-C22 saturated (unsubstituted) monoalcohol, in particular C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C15, better C3-C13, or even C3-C9; at least one of the alcohol or acid being branched; in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better from 0.5 to 4% by weight, even better from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0173] Better still, the composition according to the invention may comprise the liquid fatty ester(s) of C12-C18 monocarboxylic acid and C1-C5 monoalcohol in a total amount from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better from 0.5 to 4% by weight, even better from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Ratio

[0174] In the composition according to the invention, the total polyol(s) content and the total liquid fatty ester(s) content are such that the weight ratio between said total polyol(s) and said total liquid fatty ester(s) is between 0.5 and 3; preferably this weight ratio can be between 0.6 and 2.5, in particular between 0.7 and 2, better between 0.8 and 1.8, or even between 1 and 1.5 (the limits being inclusive).

[0175] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total amount of polyol(s) selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof and the total amount of liquid fatty ester(s) selected from liquid fatty esters of C12-C18 monocarboxylic acid and C1-C5 monoalcohol, is between 0.5 and 3; better between 0.6 and 2.5, in particular between 0.7 and 2, better still between 0.8 and 1.8, or even between 1 and 1.5 (the limits being inclusive). Additional fats

[0176] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more additional liquid fats, different from the liquid fatty esters above, and which may be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons, non-(poly)alkylated liquid fatty alcohols, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0177] Liquid hydrocarbons may be C6-C18, and linear, branched, possibly cyclic; they are preferably chosen from C8-C16 alkanes, particularly in C10-C14. As an example, we can mention hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and their mixtures.

[0178] Liquid hydrocarbons can also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; examples include paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0179] Non-(poly)alkylated liquid fatty alcohols may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0180] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise, as additional fatty substances, one or more silicones in particular one or more amino silicones (in particular those of INCI: amodi-methicone).

[0181] Silicones can in particular be chosen from among the non-volatile liquid non-amine silicones, among which can be mentioned, alone or in mixture, polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, as well as non-amine organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes having in their structure one or more non-amine organofunctional groups, generally fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from among the aryl groups, the alkoxy groups and the polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated groups. Organomodified silicones can be polydiarylsiloxanes, including polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above.Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0182] Silicones can be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly mention polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups (INCI: dimethicone) and polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol terminal groups (INCI: dimethiconol).

[0183] Aminated silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium group.

[0184] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:

[0185] A) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (la):

[0186] in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol;

[0187] B) Amino silicones conforming to formula (lia):

[0188] R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a (Ha)

[0189] in which:

[0190] - G, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl in C1-C8, for example methyl or alkoxy in C1-C8, for example methoxy, - a, a' identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,

[0191] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0192] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, where n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0193] - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in where q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group, possibly quatemized, chosen from the groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+H(R”)2 A, -N+H2(R”) A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A, in which R”, identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a CrC2o alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0194] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (lia) may be selected from:

[0195] (i) the "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" silicones corresponding to formula (III):

[0196] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better from 50 to 150; n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

[0197] (ii) silicones of the following formula (IV):

[0198] in which:

[0199] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0200] - Rb R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci -C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical.

[0201] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0202] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0203] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g / mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol.

[0204] (iii) silicones of the following formula (V):

[0205] in which:

[0206] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0207] - Ri, R2, different, represent a C1-C4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, one at minus the Ri or R2 radicals designating an alkoxy radical.

[0208] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0209] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0210] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol.

[0211] (iv) silicones of the following formula (VI):

[0212] in which:

[0213] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in a particular number from 50 to 150, where n represents a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m represents a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0214] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0215] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol.

[0216] (v) silicones of the following formula (VII):

[0217] in which:

[0218] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in a particular number from 50 to 150, where n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0219] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0220] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1000000 g / mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200000 g / mol.

[0221] C) Amino silicones conforming to formula (VIII):

[0222] in which:

[0223] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 atoms of carbon, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl;

[0224] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0225] - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate;

[0226] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;

[0227] and - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

[0228] D) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) (IX)

[0229] in which:

[0230] - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-C[8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0231] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0232] - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a radical monovalent hydrocarbon having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;

[0233] - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate; and

[0234] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.

[0235] E) Amino silicones of formula (X): P)

[0236] in which:

[0237] - Ri, R2, R3 and R4, whether identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0238] - R5 designates an alkyl radical in CrC4 or a hydroxyl group,

[0239] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0240] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0241] - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0242] F) multiblock polyoxyalkylened amine silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylened block comprising at least one amine group.

[0243] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:

[0244] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or else

[0245] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which:

[0246] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, plus particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0247] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, plus particularly between 5 and 30;

[0248] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0249] - R' ' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0250] - R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2 , linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denote a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and

[0251] - R', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2 -Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0252] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.

[0253] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0254] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g / mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g / mol.

[0255] G) Amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII): (XI)

[0256] in which:

[0257] - R, R' and R”, identical or different, denote an alkyl group in C1-C4 or a hydroxyl group,

[0258] - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and

[0259] - m and n are numbers such that the average molecular mass in weight of the The compound value is between 5000 and 500000.

[0260] in which:

[0261] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably from 1 to 100;

[0262] - Ri and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, designate a group alkyl, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0263] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0264] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. We can mention in particular the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0265] Preferably, Ri and R2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; examples include dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; and preferably, Ri and R2, identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0266] Preferably, in silicone of formula (XII), there is:

[0267] - x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;

[0268] - ranging from 1 to 100;

[0269] - A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; Preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0270] - Ri and R2 being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen especially from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably, Ri and R2, identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0271] H) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at one end of the chain or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): (XV)

[0272] In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 1000 and 55000. Examples of formula (XIV) amino silicones include products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and KF-8015 by Shin Etsu.

[0273] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 3000.

[0274] As an example of formula (XV) amine silicones, we can cite the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0275] In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 50000.

[0276] Examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI) include aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0277] When comprising one or more silicones, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more silicones selected from, alone or in mixtures, non-volatile liquid non-amino silicones, and in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups; and / or non-volatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones; as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, when comprising one or more silicones, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amodimethicones.

[0278] When present, the composition according to the invention may include the additional liquid fat(s) (siliconized and non-siliconized), other than liquid fatty esters, in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients

[0279] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise water, preferably in a total content of between 65 and 98% by weight, preferably between 70 and 95% by weight, preferably between 75 and 92% by weight, even better between 80 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0280] The composition may also include a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from C1-C4 alcohols, including monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; and mixtures thereof.

[0281] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6, preferably from 3.6 to 5.5.

[0282] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more linear or branched carboxylic acids, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, they conform to the formula (I) below:

[0283] in which:

[0284] - n is an integer between 0 and 2, better n=0 or 1, preferably n=0;

[0285] - A is a monovalent hydrocarbon group (when n=0) or a multivalent hydrocarbon group (when n is different from 0), saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic, or even aromatic, comprising 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and / or amino (NH2) groups.

[0286] In particular, one can mention, alone or in mixture, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, preferably tartaric acid.

[0287] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said carboxylic acid(s), when present, in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.02 to 5% by weight, better from 0.03 to 1% by weight, even better from 0.03 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0288] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one or more common cosmetic ingredients, in particular selected from among thickeners, gelling agents, sunscreens; moisturizing agents; anti-dandruff agents; anti-hair loss agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidizing bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct colorants; straightening agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; micas, pearlescent pigments, glitter; plasticizing or coalescing agents; pigments; fillers; perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents. Those skilled in the art shall take care to select the ingredients used in the composition, as well as their quantities, so as not to impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0289] The cosmetic composition according to the invention finds in particular a particularly interesting application in the field of hair care, in particular for the cleansing and / or conditioning, especially the conditioning, of hair.

[0290] Hair compositions are preferably conditioners or hair masks; advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a conditioner, in particular a conditioner, capable of being rinsed out.

[0291] The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed after being applied to keratinous materials, particularly hair. Rinsing with water may be optional, for example, after any application time. Preferably, it is rinsed after any application time.

[0292] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning, especially conditioning, of keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, in particular hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials, a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0293] Preferably, a step of rinsing the keratinous materials, for example with water, is implemented after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0294] A drying step for the keratin materials may be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, in particular using a heating means such as a hair dryer.

[0295] Preferably, it is a hair treatment process, in particular washing and / or conditioning hair.

[0296] The present invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. Example 1

[0297] Cosmetic compositions according to invention A1 and comparatives A2 and A3 are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed as a percentage by weight of active material (g% MA).

[0298] [Tables 1] Al (invention) A2 (comparative) A3 (comparative) Behentrimonium chloride 2.2 2.2 2.2 Isopropyl myristate 2 2 2 Cetyl esters (INCI: CETYL ESTERS) 1.45 1.45 1.45 Cetearyl alcohol 5 5 5 Glycerin 2.45 9.6 0.2 Isopropanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 Preservatives qs qs qs Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Glycerin / isopropyl myristate ratio 1.2 4.8 0.1

[0299] Compositions are obtained that can be used for the care and conditioning of hair, for example as a rinse-out conditioner.

[0300] The cosmetic performance provided by the Al composition according to the invention is evaluated with that provided by the comparative compositions.

[0301] Protocol:

[0302] Strands of Caucasian hair, previously sensitized by a bleaching treatment (SA20), are cleansed by applying a standard shampoo (DOP chamomile) at a rate of 0.3 g per gram of strand. The strands are then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 L / h - temperature 35°C). The composition is applied to the still-wet hair strands at a rate of 0.45 g per gram of strand. After a waiting period of 5 minutes, the strand is rinsed with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 L / h - temperature 35°C). The cosmetic performance is evaluated on wet hair.

[0303] (i) The cosmetic performance of compositions Al and A2 is evaluated on the The following criteria: the "smooth to the touch" criterion and the "homogeneity of the coating".

[0304] Performance is assessed blindly by 6 trained evaluators, who assign a score from 0 (no performance) to 5 (very high performance), in increments of 0.5, on the criterion tested.

[0305] Evaluation of smoothness to the touch: the evaluator takes a strand of hair at the root and runs it between their fingers along its entire length to the tips. The more uniform and homogeneous the hair is from root to tip, the fewer rough edges it has, the less it catches the fingers, and the better its smoothness to the touch.

[0306] Coating assessment: the assessor takes the strand of hair in their hand, starts at the root, and slides it to the tips. The more homogeneous the coating feels on the fiber, the better the homogeneity of the coating.

[0307] The following results are obtained:

[0308] [Tables2] Composition A1 (ratio = 1.2) Composition A2 (ratio = 4.8) Smooth to the touch Scores: 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 Average: 4 Standard deviation: 0 Scores: 2.5 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 2 / 3 Average: 2.75 Standard deviation: 0.76 Coating homogeneity Scores: 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 Average: 4 Standard deviation: 0 Scores: 1.5 / 2 / 2 / 4.5 / 2.5 / 3 Average: 2.58 Standard deviation: 1.07

[0309] It is observed that the composition according to the invention (ratio less than 3) allows for better cosmetic performance on damp hair. Hair appears smoother to the touch, with a more present, homogeneous and soft coating from root to tip.

[0310] (ii) The cosmetic performance of compositions Al and A3 is evaluated on the following criterion: “softening of hair”.

[0311] Performance is assessed blindly by 5 trained evaluators, who assign a score from 0 (no softening) to 5 (very softening), in increments of 0.5, on the criterion tested.

[0312] The assessor folds the wet strand in thirds in their hand and assesses the force required for this operation. The more force required, the more body / substance / strength the hair has and is therefore repaired.

[0313] The following results are obtained:

[0314] [Tables3] Composition Al (ratio = 1.2) Composition A3 (ratio = 0.1) Softening Scores: 3 / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3 Average: 3 Standard deviation: 0 Scores: 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 Average: 4 Standard deviation: 0

[0315] It is observed that the composition according to the invention (ratio greater than 0.5) makes it possible to limit the softening of the keratin fibers; the composition according to the invention therefore allows better reinforcement of the fiber, a sign of better repair qualities.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic composition, particularly for hair care, comprising: - one or more cationic surfactants, - one or more solid fats, - one or more polyols, and - one or more liquid fatty esters, wherein the weight ratio between the total quantity of polyol(s) and the total quantity of liquid fatty ester(s) is between 0.5 and

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the cationic surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixture, - compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II): n + (II) 1 X < XI in which: X is an anion in particular selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates; the groups Ri to R4, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Ri to R4 designating an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III):” R. T <ni) Ny J X A / 'R? c......C Ha Ha. in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms respectively. - quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts, in particular those of formula (IV): (IV) 2X in which: R9 designates an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly hydroxylated and / or possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms. Rio is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (R9a)(R10a)(Riia)N-(CH2)3 group, with R9a, Rica, Riia, R11, R12, Rb and R[4, identical or different, chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those with the following formula (V): (V) H R j—N— X 5 JS ' . < .1 : A !• C“ in which: Rn is chosen from among the Ci-C6 alkyl groups and the Ci-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; Ri6 is chosen from the R19-C(0)- group; the R20 groups which are C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom, Ri8 is chosen from the R21-C(0)- group; the R22 groups which are Ci-C6 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; the hydrogen atom; Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from among the C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, whether identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, whether identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then Ri6 denotes R2o and that when z is 0 then R[8 denotes R22- - fatty amines, in particular fatty amidoamines, and especially amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR”N(R')2(VI) in which: - R represents a monovalent linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23; - R' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical; preferably from those of formula (II), (V), (VI), and their mixtures; Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) being chosen from, alone or in mixture, salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the cationic surfactant(s) in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.2 to 8% by weight, better 0.5 to 7% by weight, better still 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the solid fat(s) are selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof; preferably from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; better, from, alone or in mixture, saturated monoalcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms;saturated carboxylic acid esters, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and saturated monoalcohols, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the saturated carboxylic acids being optionally hydroxylated.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the solid fat(s) in a total quantity from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 18% by weight weight, preferably 3 to 15% by weight, better still 4 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyol(s) are selected from polyols comprising from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups; preferably, comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof; preferably from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof;and even better among glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.;

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyol(s) are present in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, even better 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the liquid fatty ester(s) are, alone or in mixture, C1-C40 carboxylic acid esters, in particular C2-C32, more preferably C3-C28, or even C4-C22, said acid being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted, for example, by one or more hydroxyl groups; and C1-C40 alcohol esters, in particular C2-C32, more preferably C3-C28, or even C4-C22, said alcohol being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted; preferably at least one of the alcohol or acid being branched; in particular chosen from among the esters of mono-acid, linear or branched, saturated at C1-C40, especially at C2-C32, even better at C3-C28, or even at C4-C22; and of linear or branched mono-alcohol, saturated at C1-C40, especially at C2-C32, even better at C3- C28, or even C4-C22; at least one of the alcohol or acid being branched; in particular selected from liquid esters of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid, and of Cl-C5 monoalcohol, in particular of C3-C5 branched monoalcohol, and in particular isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl stearate and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the liquid fatty ester(s) in a total amount from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better from 0.5 to 4% by weight, still better from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the total amount of polyol(s) and the total amount of liquid fatty ester(s) is between 0.6 and 2.5, in particular between 0.7 and 2, preferably between 0.8 and 1.8, or even between 1 and 1

11. 1,J. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water, preferably in a total content of between 65 and 98% by weight, preferably between 70 and 95% by weight, preferably between 75 and 92% by weight, even better between 80 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more additional liquid fats, preferably selected from liquid hydrocarbons, non-(poly)alkylated liquid fatty alcohols, mineral oils, silicones and mixtures thereof; in particular amino silicones.

13. A cosmetic treatment process, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning, especially conditioning, of keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, in particular hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials, a cosmetic composition defined according to any one of the preceding claims.

14. A method according to claim 13, comprising a step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, carried out after the step of applying the composition.