Cosmetic tightening agent comprising helical glucan biopolymers obtained from Castanea sativa

Abstract

The present invention relates to specific cosmetic agents exhibiting a tightening and / or adhesive effect. These agents comprise biopolymers consisting of linear helical glucans linked by α-1,4 chains, obtained from Castanea sativa. The invention also relates to the use of these agents for cosmetic applications, particularly for a smoothing effect, to improve skin radiance, or to prolong the wear of makeup.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic tightening agent comprising helical glucan biopolymers obtained from Castanea sativa. Technical field

[0001] The invention relates to specific cosmetic agents exhibiting a tightening and / or adhesive effect. These agents comprise biopolymers consisting primarily of polysaccharides, particularly linear glucans linked at α-1,4, obtained from Castanea sativa, and exhibiting a helical conformation. The invention also relates to the use of these agents for cutaneous cosmetic applications, notably for a smoothing effect, to improve skin radiance, or to prolong the wear of makeup. State of the art

[0002] Faced with a wide range of cosmetic products and taking into account current environmental issues, consumers are increasingly skeptical of a system that encourages overconsumption, excessive packaging, etc. As a result, some consumers feel the need to reconsider their skincare routines. However, the search for products with proven efficacy and multiple cosmetic benefits remains a prerequisite. This quest for simplicity in current skincare routines is reflected in a pronounced enthusiasm for trends such as "skin streaming," which streamlines product use into a few key steps, or the hybridization of skincare and makeup.

[0003] Thus, one of the many challenges facing the cosmetics industry lies in combining product versatility, the results of which demonstrate the effectiveness of their formula, with sensory appeal. For skincare and makeup, the duration of effectiveness plays a crucial role in product claims. For skincare, the rapid perception of benefits is closely linked to users' interpretation of the products' functional performance. For makeup, the "long-lasting" effect is certainly one of the most frequently used claims. It refers to the prolonged wear of pigments, allowing for a polished appearance throughout the day.

[0004] In this context, cosmetic tensor-type agents represent particularly interesting candidates to meet contemporary consumer expectations.

[0005] There is therefore a need for new agents, with a noticeable tightening effect, as well as an optimal adhesion effect to guarantee that the makeup stays in place throughout the day and to provide the expected care. Summary of the invention

[0006] To meet this need, the invention proposes a new tightening agent, namely a film-forming biopolymer that provides an immediate tightening effect from the first application, smooths the skin to make it softer and more radiant, and combines it with adhesive properties. Indeed, beyond this smoothing effect, the tightening agent prolongs the wear of makeup and thus guarantees high-performance hold.

[0007] Thanks to its remarkable physical properties, the tensing agent according to the invention offers multifunctional effectiveness and provides noticeable cosmetic benefits in the short and long term, thus meeting the needs of consumers to minimize the number of skincare products in their beauty routine.

[0008] The present invention thus relates to a cosmetic tightening agent comprising biopolymers in a helical conformation, wherein said biopolymers comprise predominantly linear glucans linked in α-1,4, advantageously of molar masses between 360 Da and 360 kDa, said glucans being obtained from Castanea saliva.

[0009] Advantageously, this specific biopolymer is a foldamer that exhibits a strong tendency to adopt a compact and ordered conformation. In a helical conformation, these biopolymers shrink, conferring tensing properties to the cosmetic agent.

[0010] Obtaining a helical biopolymer relies in particular on: a. the selection of a raw material rich in linear or branched polysaccharides and whose branches are hydrolyzable, namely the chestnut (Castanea saliva); b. obtaining helical structures of specific size, giving the cosmetic agent the tensing properties.

[0011] Indeed, the formation of a helical foldamer is conditioned by the size and linearity of the polysaccharide chains. These two parameters determine the ability of the polysaccharides to interact with each other and to fold into helices. It is by adopting this conformation that the biopolymer shrinks and confers the tightening properties to the cosmetic agent.

[0012] Thus, according to a preferred object, the tensor agent according to the invention is essentially made up of biopolymers in a helical conformation, in which said biopolymers comprise predominantly linear glucans α-1,4 linked obtained from Castanea sativa, with molar masses between 360 Da and 360 kDa.

[0013] Obtaining these helical biopolymers depends in particular on the composition and structure of the polysaccharides contained in the plant-based raw material, especially its richness in linear or branched and hydrolyzable polysaccharides. Thus, the glucans forming the agent according to the invention are obtained from the chestnut, which is the fruit of the chestnut tree (Castenea sativa). The choice of this specific material makes it possible, in particular, to utilize an abundant natural resource whose traceability can be ensured. This, again, allows us to meet a consumer expectation, namely the use of environmentally friendly natural raw materials of known origin, thus offering consumers virtuous agriculture that respects good agricultural practices while preserving ecosystems.

[0014] Preferably, these biopolymers comprise at least 90% of linear α-1,4-linked glucans, of molar masses between 360 Da and 360 kDa, by weight of the total weight of the agent, more preferably, said biopolymers comprise between 90% and 97%, by weight of the total weight of the agent.

[0015] According to another preferred object, the glucans forming the biopolymer have an average molar mass between 8 kDa and 100 kDa, more preferably an average molar mass between 10 kDa and 50 kDa, and even more preferably, an average molar mass of 22,500 Da (plus or minus 1,500 Da). This specific selection thus enables the agent to exhibit the desired film-forming properties and tensor effect.

[0016] According to another aspect of the invention, the biopolymers are functionalized. The functionalization of the biopolymers, in particular by the addition of carbonyl and carboxyl groups, further improves the intrinsic adhesion properties of the agent according to the invention, enhancing its effectiveness and long-lasting durability. Indeed, the addition of these groups gives the tensor agent increased adhesion properties, resulting in greater durability over time.

[0017] Thus, the glucans of Castanea sativa are functionalized by at least one carboxyl or carbonyl group.

[0018] Most preferably, the agent according to the invention comprises between 5% and 10% glucose, i.e., between 5 and 10 glucoses per 100, functionalized with a carboxyl and / or carbonyl group, which significantly improves the adhesion capabilities of the agent. Even more preferably, at least 8% of the glucoses (plus or minus 1%), forming the glucans, are functionalized, which has significantly improved the adhesion capabilities of the agent according to the invention.

[0019] According to another particularly preferred object of the invention, glucans are obtained by a preparation process comprising the following steps: a. Solubilization of chestnut (Castanea saliva), containing glucans, in water, b. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases, c. Enzymatic and / or chemical hydrolysis of the insoluble phase, d. Functionalization of glucans, e. Purification.

[0020] Thus, the invention also relates to a process for preparing helical glucans forming the biopolymer, itself forming the cosmetic agent according to the present invention.

[0021] Furthermore, the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.05% of a tensing agent according to any one of the preceding objects, by weight of the total weight of the composition. Most preferably, the composition comprises between 0.05% and 5% of a tensing agent according to the invention. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the tensing agent, at least one excipient, in particular a cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0022] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to cosmetic uses of the tensing agent according to the invention or of a composition comprising it.

[0023] According to a preferred object, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a tensing agent according to any one of the preceding objects, as a cosmetic tensing and adhesive agent.

[0024] The invention relates more advantageously to the use of this tightening agent to improve skin radiance and / or smooth the skin and / or decrease the visibility of skin pores.

[0025] In addition, the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of said agent according to the invention to improve the hold of makeup, for example foundation, eyeshadow, etc.

[0026] Also, the inventor has developed a new tensor agent of natural origin, meeting current consumer expectations.

[0027] Other features and advantages will become apparent from the detailed description of the invention, the examples and figures that follow. Brief description of the Figures

[0028] [Fig.1] represents the spectral bands, obtained from a Raman type spectrometer, which are characteristic of helical structures.

[0029] [Fig.2] represents an illustration of the hold of the eyeshadow when the agent according to the invention is formulated in an emulsion (primer) compared with a placebo. Detailed description of the invention

[0030] Definition

[0031] For the purposes of this invention, "cosmetic agent" or "agent" means an ingredient suitable for cosmetic use. The agent according to the invention consists of saccharides, in particular glucans, and may also be referred to in this application as a "biopolymer".

[0032] For the purposes of this invention, "biopolymer" means polymers derived from plant-based raw materials, as opposed to synthetic polymers obtained by chemical synthesis. A biopolymer can exist in several conformations, including a helical conformation, in which case it is called a foldamer.

[0033] The term "film-forming effect" refers to an effect capable of creating on the surface of the skin a film that is imperceptible to the naked eye, homogeneous, flexible, and spreads satisfactorily. In cosmetics, consumers expect a film-forming agent to produce a film or continuous layer on the skin and hair that is flexible and supple.

[0034] By "tightening effect," we mean a tightening effect on the skin. This effect is rapid, almost immediate. Through this tightening effect, the agent smooths the skin, reduces the appearance of pores, and diminishes the size of wrinkles and fine lines.

[0035] For the purposes of this invention, "tensor agent" means a biopolymer exhibiting a tensor effect.

[0036] By "naturally sourced tensor agent" is meant a tensor agent derived from a raw material from nature but which has undergone specific and defined chemical and / or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying it, modifications which are intentional and which allow the structures of molecules to be obtained which are therefore no longer all identical to the molecules present in nature.

[0037] By "adhesive effect," we mean the skin-adhesive effect of the tightening agent according to the invention. Through this adhesive effect, the agent allows for prolonged wear of the pigments composing the makeup, thus enabling a flawless appearance throughout the day by improving makeup hold without requiring reapplication during the day. This adhesive capacity can, in particular, be evaluated according to the protocol described in Example 2.

[0038] By "average molar mass" of a mixture of molecules within the meaning of the invention is meant the average of the weight molar masses of each molecule of the mixture.

[0039] Tensor agent according to the invention

[0040] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic tightening agent comprising biopolymers in a helical conformation, in which said biopolymers comprise predominantly linear glucans linked in α-1,4, of molar masses between 360 Da and 360 kDa, said glucans being obtained from the chestnut (Castanea saliva).

[0041] The helical structure of the biopolymer can be determined and quantified by Raman microspectrometer. A band around 1340 cm⁻¹ indicates the presence of helical structures in the sample. The larger the area under the curve, the more this helical conformation is represented in the sample. These results are presented in [Fig. 1]. Thus, the agent comprises a majority of biopolymers in helical form.

[0042] The specific molecular structure comprising α-1,4 linkages can be determined by chromatography after the action of an enzyme specific to the α-1,4 linkage between two glucose molecules. Another enzyme specific to the α-1,6 linkage between two glucose molecules was also used in a mixture with the first one mentioned. The enzymatic reactions are carried out on a 100 g / L solution of the agent according to the invention. It was thus determined that the agent comprises a majority of linear glucans linked by α-1,4.

[0043] The molar masses of these saccharide biopolymers can be determined by HPLC, followed by detection of the Refractive Index (RI). Samples of the agent according to the invention are solubilized at 100 g / L and then diluted with U2 in the mobile phase before injection into the HPLC / RI system. The molar mass of the saccharides is then evaluated by comparing the retention times of the peaks detected in the samples of the agent according to the invention with the retention times of previously injected standards.

[0044] Thus, the molar masses of these biopolymers are between 360 Da and 360 kDa.

[0045] The tensor agent according to the invention is therefore formed of particular biopolymers having a particular conformation and specifically selected sizes. Indeed, these biopolymers are essentially made up of glucans obtained from Castanea sativa, selected for their molar mass between 360 Da and 360 kDa, that is to say, they are preferentially obtained by transformation of native glucans, in particular by hydrolysis.

[0046] Preferably, the invention therefore relates to a cosmetic tensing agent consisting essentially of biopolymers having a helical conformation, in which said biopolymers comprise mainly linear glucans linked in α-1,4, of molar masses between 360 Da and 360 kDa, obtained from Castanea sativa.

[0047] Most preferably, the properties of the tensor agent according to the invention are further improved when the proportion of specifically selected glucans is at least 90%, by weight of the total weight of the agent.

[0048] Thus, the biopolymers comprise at least 90% of linear α-1,4-linked glucans with molar masses between 360 Da and 360 kDa, by weight of the total weight of the agent. More preferably, the biopolymers comprise between 90% and 97% of linear α-1,4-linked glucans with molar masses between 360 Da and 360 kDa, by weight of the total weight of the agent.

[0049] The size of these glucans is also specifically selected. Indeed, the inventor has determined that the film-forming properties and the tensor effect are maximum when the average molar mass of the glucans is preferentially between 8 kDa and 100 kDa, more preferably between 10 kDa and 50 kDa, and even more preferably 22.5 kDa (plus or minus 10%).

[0050] The distribution of the molar masses of the saccharides present in the agent according to the invention has also been determined. Thus, most preferably, the agent according to the invention comprises between 65% and 80% polysaccharides, between 20% and 30% oligosaccharides and at most 5% monosaccharides.

[0051] The elemental sugar composition of the agent was also determined by ion chromatography. The agent advantageously comprises at least 90% glucose and at most 10% fructose, very advantageously at least 95% glucose and at most 5% fructose.

[0052] According to another preferred object, the properties of the tensor agent according to the invention are further improved when the agent is functionalized, in particular when the glucans are functionalized, most preferably when the glucans are functionalized by at least one carboxyl or carbonyl group.

[0053] This functionalization of glucans provides improved adhesion properties. To achieve this, carboxyl or carbonyl groups are added to the glucans, forming biopolymers, which themselves form the tensile agent according to the invention.

[0054] To further improve adhesion properties and thus enable better durability over time, an optimal functionalization rate has been determined. Thus, depending on a particularly preferred object, between 5% and 10% of glucoses are functionalized, more preferentially 8% of glucoses (plus or minus 1%).

[0055] The functionalization rate of the agent according to the invention is expressed as the number of carboxyl and carbonyl groups per 100 units of elemental sugars. This functionalization rate is determined as follows. The quantity of carboxyl groups is determined by titrating a solution of the agent according to the invention with a 0.1M sodium hydroxide solution using an acid-base titration. The quantity of carbonyl groups is obtained after reacting the solution of the agent according to the invention with hydroxylamine. The excess of hydroxylamine is determined by titrating the reaction with hydrochloric acid. Thus, the agent preferably comprises between 5 and 10 functionalized glucoses per 100 elemental sugars, more preferably 8 functionalized glucoses per 100 sugars.

[0056] The dry matter content of the agent can be determined by weighing the residues obtained from drying the agent according to the invention at 105°C in an oven until a constant weight is obtained. Thus, preferably, the agent according to the invention in solid form has a dry matter content of 900 mg / g to 1000 mg / g.

[0057] The tensor agent according to the invention thus comprises, very preferably, at least 90% sugars, at most 5% ash, at most 3% protein, and at most 5% organic acids, by weight of the total weight of the agent.

[0058] The sugar content is preferably determined according to the DUBOIS method (Dubois M. et al., Analytical chemistry, 28, 3, 350-356, 1956).

[0059] The crude ash content is preferably determined by weighing the residues from incineration at 550°C in an electric muffle furnace.

[0060] The protein content is preferably determined by the KJELDHAL method (reference: Official method of analysis of the AOC 1975, 12th ed. W Horwitz, ED, New-York, p. 15-60).

[0061] The organic acid content is preferably determined by ionic liquid chromatography by preparing a calibration curve of organic acids from commercial standards.

[0062] The tensor agent according to the invention can be in liquid or solid form.

[0063] When in liquid form, the agent according to the invention essentially consists of biopolymers, possibly accompanied by a stabilizer and / or preservative system. Its dry matter content can be determined by weighing the residues obtained from drying the extract according to the invention at 105°C in an oven until a constant weight is reached.

[0064] Advantageously, the tensor agent according to the invention is in solid form, in particular in powder form.

[0065] When in solid form, the agent according to the invention may consist of the tensor agent as previously described and a carrier selected from maltodextrin, gum arabic, or soy lecithin. In a particularly suitable embodiment, the agent represents at least 10% by weight of the agent and the carrier at most 90% by weight of the agent.

[0066] According to another object, the agent according to the invention may optionally include an excipient, in particular selected from a preservative, an antioxidant, a stabilizer, an atomization support, and / or their combination.

[0067] Method for preparing the agent according to the invention

[0068] Although the tensor agent according to the invention can be obtained by any means, according to a preferred embodiment, the preparation process includes at least one preparation step from the saccharide-rich Castanea saliva plant, such as at least one hydrolysis, preferably a chemical hydrolysis.

[0069] Preferably, glucans are obtained by a preparation process comprising the following steps: a. Solubilization of Castanea sativa in water in order to solubilize the glucans, b. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, recovery of the insoluble phase including glucans c. Controlled enzymatic and / or chemical hydrolysis of the insoluble phase, d. Functionalization of glucans, e. Purification

[0070] According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the agent according to the invention is therefore obtained by carrying out the following steps: a. Solubilization of Castanea sativa in water for the purpose of solubilizing glucans at a rate of at least 200 g / L, b. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, recovery of the insoluble phase including glucans, c. Controlled enzymatic and / or chemical hydrolysis of the insoluble phase, d. Functionalization of glucans, e. Purification, f. Possibly, filtration and sterilization.

[0071] The solubilization of glucans is carried out in water, advantageously the glucans are obtained from any raw material rich in saccharides, in particular in linear branched and hydrolyzable polysaccharides, such as Castanea sativa.

[0072] The separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by centrifugation, filtration or decantation. The separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is carried out to recover the insoluble phase containing the glucans.

[0073] At least one hydrolysis is then carried out to cut the glucans to the size of interest, advantageously a controlled enzymatic and / or chemical hydrolysis. Those skilled in the art know how to adapt the conditions of the chemical hydrolysis to obtain the desired results. When the hydrolysis is enzymatic, the process includes a heat treatment step. The heat treatment step is advantageously carried out to inactivate the enzyme(s) present. This inactivation is then carried out according to the recommendations of the supplier of the enzyme(s) used.

[0074] A radical-type functionalization is implemented to functionalize the glucans by adding at least one carboxyl or carbonyl group to the glucose molecules forming the linear glucan chain. This functionalization can notably be achieved by adding sodium hypochlorite, ozone, sodium periodate, hydrogen peroxide, peracetic acid, sodium bromide, or potassium permanganate, or mixtures thereof.

[0075] The agent obtained at this stage may optionally be further concentrated. Preferably the agent is purified by successive ultrafiltration steps through membranes of different porosity, retaining the glucans of interest at each step and / or by a chromatographic method.

[0076] The steps of the processes described above, taken individually, are usual in the field of extractions from natural raw materials and a person skilled in the art is able to adjust the reaction parameters on the basis of their general knowledge.

[0077] Composition according to the invention

[0078] The cosmetic agent according to the invention is preferably incorporated into a composition, this composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium. These are compositions in various pharmaceutical forms, adapted for topical administration to human skin.

[0079] These compositions may be in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, multiple emulsions (Water / Oil / Water or Oil / Water / Oil), which may optionally be microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or in the form of solutions, suspensions, hydrodispersions, aqueous gels, or powders. They may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a cream, lotion, milk, serum, ointment, gel, paste, or foam, or be in solid form.

[0080] These may be compositions comprising at least 0.05% of an agent according to the invention, preferably between 0.05 and 5%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0081] These compositions comprise, in addition to the agent, a physiologically acceptable and preferably cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say, one that does not cause unacceptable discomfort to the user, such as redness, tightness, or tingling. This medium may, in particular, be an acceptable excipient.

[0082] The compositions according to the invention may contain as an adjuvant at least one compound selected from: - oils, which can be chosen in particular from among silicone oils, linear or cyclic, volatile or non-volatile; - waxes, such as ozokerite, polyethylene wax, beeswax or camauba wax, - silicone elastomers, - surfactants, preferably emulsifying, whether non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric, - co-surfactants, such as linear fatty alcohols, - thickeners and / or gelling agents, - humectants, such as polyols like glycerin, - organic filters, - inorganic filters, - colorants, preservatives, fillers, pigments, minerals, - the sequestrators, - perfumes, - and their mixtures, without this list being exhaustive.

[0083] Examples of such adjuvants are cited in particular in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook published by the Personal Care Product Council).

[0084] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, active or inactive, and their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0085] These compositions are in particular intended to be used for the effects provided by the cosmetic agent according to the invention, in particular a tightening effect and an adhesive effect.

[0086] The invention also relates, according to another aspect, to a cosmetic skin care process to improve the condition of the skin, in particular for a smoothing effect and / or to improve the radiance of the complexion and / or to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or to improve the hold of makeup.

[0087] Preferably the method consists of applying at least once a day to the skin of the face a composition according to the invention comprising in particular at least 0.05% by weight of dry matter of the tightening agent according to the invention.

[0088] Cosmetic uses

[0089] Thus, the cosmetic agent according to the invention, or a composition comprising it, can therefore be used for its various properties. In particular, the invention relates to its cosmetic use as a tightening and / or adhesive agent.

[0090] It can thus be used in particular as an agent: a. to improve skin radiance and / or smooth the skin, and / or b. to reduce the visibility of skin pores, and / or c. for a noticeable cosmetic film effect, in order to feel the tightening efficacy, improve the overall appearance of the face and improve the hold of makeup pigments.

[0091] The invention therefore also aims to: a. The cosmetic use of an agent according to the invention: i. as a cosmetic tightening and / or adhesive agent, ii. as a cosmetic agent to improve skin radiance and / or smooth the skin, iii. as a cosmetic agent to reduce wrinkles and fine lines, iv. as a cosmetic agent to diminish the visibility of pores skin, v. as a cosmetic agent to improve the hold of makeup, due to its adhesive properties, allowing for long-lasting action.

[0092] The invention is now illustrated by non-limiting examples of compositions according to the invention and by results. Examples

[0093] Example a - Agent according to the invention

[0094] The tensor agent of Example 1a is obtained from the chestnut of the species Castanea sativa. The tensor agent of Example 1a is obtained by the following process: a. Solubilization of 200 g / L of Castanea sativa containing glucans in water, b. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, c. Controlled chemical hydrolysis of the insoluble phase, d. Purification, e. Filtration

[0095] The tensor agent according to example a is in liquid form, it essentially comprises biopolymers, themselves comprising linear glucans linked in α-1,4, with molar masses between 360 Da and 360 kDa, the agent notably possesses the following characteristics: - Dry matter content = 90 g / L, of which: - Sugar content = 98%, by weight relative to dry matter.

[0096] The sugar content is determined according to the DUBOIS method (Dubois M. et al., Analytical chemistry, 28, 3, 350-356, 1956).

[0097] The crude ash content is determined by weighing the residues from incineration at 550°C in an electric muffle furnace.

[0098] The protein content is determined by the KJELDHAL method (reference: Official method of analysis of the AOC 1975, 12th ed. W Horwitz, ED, New-York, p. 15-60).

[0099] The organic acid content is determined by ionic liquid chromatography by preparing an organic acid calibration curve from commercial standards.

[0100] The helical structure of the biopolymer is determined and quantified by micro-spectrometer and the determination of the masses is carried out by HPLC, followed by the detection of the Refractive Index (IR).

[0101] Example 1 b - Agent according to the invention

[0102] The tensor agent of Example 1b is, again, obtained from the chestnut of the species Castanea saliva. The tensor agent of Example 1b is obtained by the following process: has. Solubilization of 200 g / L of Castanea sativa in water, b. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases, c. Controlled chemical hydrolysis of the insoluble phase, d. Functionalization of glucans by addition of carbonyl groups and carboxyl, e. Purification, f. Atomization

[0103] The tensor agent according to Example 1b is in powder form, it comprises linear glucans linked in α-1,4, with molar masses between 360 Da and 360 kDa, the agent has in particular the following characteristics: - Dry matter content = 950mg / g, of which: - Sugar content = 93%, by weight relative to dry matter, - Protein content = 1%, by weight relative to dry matter, - Ash content = 3% by weight relative to dry matter, - Organic acid content = 3% by weight relative to dry matter, - 97% of sugars have a molecular mass between 360 and 360 kDa and 72% of sugars have a molecular mass between 1260 Da and 360 kDa. - 96% of glucans are linear glucans linked at α-1,4. - Sugars are made up of 98% glucose and 3% fructose. - 8% of glucoses are functionalized.

[0104] The level of functionalized glucose is determined as follows: the amount of carboxyl function is determined by titrating a solution of the agent according to the invention with a sodium hydroxide solution and the amount of carbonyl function is obtained after reacting the solution of the agent according to the invention with hydroxylamine.

[0105] Example 2 - Study of the adhesion properties of the agent according to the invention

[0106] The objective of this study is to evaluate the adhesion capacity of the agent according to the invention.

[0107] The study is carried out according to a protocol adapted from the Elcometer 1542 Cross Hatch Adhesion Tester kit. The adhesion of the agent according to the invention was evaluated in comparison to a polymer known for its adhesion properties in cosmetics, Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).

[0108] The protocol is as follows. On day 0 (J0), the agent according to the invention of Example 1a, Example 1b, or polyvinylpyrrolidone is solubilized at 70 g / L in water containing 1% sorbitan monolaurate. The polymer solutions are spread onto a contrast card, using a film puller, to form a wet film 150 µm thick. Each polymer is deposited on a separate contrast card. The films are then dried for 24 hours at room temperature. After drying, the films are scored horizontally and vertically to create a grid pattern using the cutting tool from the kit.

[0109] The polymer exhibits strong adhesion if the cut edges are perfectly smooth, without any film peeling. Conversely, the appearance of increasingly large peeling areas indicates reduced adhesive properties. The extent of peeling areas was quantified by acquiring images using the Visioscan® VC 20 and then analyzed by software processing. The higher the value, the less adhesive the film is.

[0110] The results are presented in Table 1 below. [YES] [Table 1] Detachment area (number of white pixels) Agent according to the invention of example 1b 13.0*10⁶ Agent according to the invention of example la 16.2*10⁶ PVP 9.99*10⁶

[0112] The lower the peel area value, the more adhesive the agent. Thus, the agent according to the invention in Example 1b (functionalized) has a smaller peel area, expressed by a 20% reduction in the number of white pixels, compared to the non-functionalized agent according to the invention (Example 1b). a), approaching that of a synthetic polymer, PVP. Functionalization by the addition of fillers thus gives the agent according to the invention of example 1b a stronger adhesive power.

[0113] Example 3 - Study of the sensory effect of the agent according to the invention

[0114] 3.1 Agent according to the invention in gel form

[0115] The objective of this study is to quantify the sensory tightening effect, determined by a trained panel, after a single application of the agent according to the invention formulated as a gel, compared to a placebo. The evaluation of the tightening effect was carried out using a score scale from 0 to 10 (0: no perceived tightening effect, 10: significant tightening effect) by evaluators previously trained to quantify a tightening effect.

[0116] The scoring is performed 3 minutes, 5 minutes, and 10 minutes after the application of 80 pL of the agent according to the invention (Example 1b) formulated at different doses (0.16%, 0.32%, and 0.50%) or of the placebo to the crow's feet area. The trained panel consisted of 21 healthy volunteers.

[0117] The results are presented in Table 2 below.

[0118] [Tables2] Average score (UA) Placebo 1.9 Agent according to the invention -0.16% 3.7 Agent according to the invention -0.32% 4.5 Agent according to the invention -0.50% 5.3

[0119] After application of the agent according to the invention, formulated as a gel at different doses to the crow's feet area: 95% of volunteers experienced a greater effect than that perceived with the placebo formula, even at a dose of 0.16%. This figure reached 100% of volunteers when the agent according to the invention was tested at a dose of 0.50%. Furthermore, the agent according to the invention exhibits a dose-dependent tightening effect.

[0120] 3.2 Agent according to the invention in the form of an emulsion

[0121] The objective of this study is to evaluate the sensory effects of the agent according to invention 1b, formulated as an emulsion at different doses (0.32% and 0.50%), by a trained panel after a single application compared to a placebo. The evaluations were carried out at three time points (8 minutes after an application of 400 pL to the face; 5 minutes after an application of 50 pL to the hand; and 5 minutes after an application of 50 pL to the forearm), on three predefined measurement areas, using score scales ranging from 0 to 10. The trained panel consisted of 13 healthy volunteers.

[0122] The results are presented in Table 3 below.

[0123] [Tables3] Placebo Agent according to the invention - 0.32% Agent according to the invention - 0.50% Smoothing effect (face area) 40 50 60 Tightening effect (face area) 32 48 70 Skin softness (forearm area) 41 53 56 Tightening effect (hand area) 38 52 60

[0124] At a concentration of 0.32% in emulsion, the tightening and smoothing effect of the agent according to the invention is perceived by a panel of trained experts on both the hand and the face. The agent according to the invention also provides a feeling of softness to the formula. These effects become significant compared to the placebo formula when the agent according to the invention is incorporated at a dose of 0.50%. Thus, the tightening agent according to the invention exhibits a tightening and smoothing effect.

[0125] Cosmetic study of the agent according to the invention

[0126] Example 4 - Effectiveness of the agent according to the invention for its smoothing effect

[0127] The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo, the efficacy at the facial level of the agent according to invention 1b formulated at 0.32% in an aqueous gel and at 0.64% in a gel-cream, compared to their respective placebo formulas.

[0128] The study was carried out on two groups of healthy, Caucasian, female volunteers with slight to moderate crow's feet wrinkles and a dull complexion.

[0129] The volunteers were distributed as follows:

[0130] Study of the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.32% in aqueous gel: a. Placebo group: 18 subjects b. group of the agent according to the invention at 0.32%: 19 subjects

[0131] Study of the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.64% in gel-cream: a. Placebo group: 18 subjects b. group of the agent according to the invention at 0.64%: 18 subjects.

[0132] Both studies were conducted 15 minutes, 5 hours, or 8 hours after a single application to the face using the following methods: a. study of cutaneous microrelief by projection of fringes; b. study of complexion radiance by visual evaluation by experts;

[0133] The results of the agent in aqueous gel form on the cutaneous microrelief are presented in Table 4 below.

[0134] [Tables4] Variation in pattern density / T0 (%) T 15 minutes T 8 hours Placebo -2 3 Agent according to invention - 0.32% -5 -3

[0135] The results demonstrate that, as early as 15 minutes after a single application by Caucasian volunteers and compared to the placebo group, the agent according to the invention, formulated at 0.32% gel, significantly smooths the microrelief of the face. This smoothing effect continues for up to 8 hours after application, during which a 6% reduction in the density of the patterns is observed in the subjects.

[0136] Thus, the agent according to the invention smooths the skin surface quickly and this effect continues throughout the day.

[0137] The results of the agent in gel-cream form on the cutaneous microrelief are presented in Table 5 below.

[0138] [Tables5] Variation in pattern density / T0 (%) T 15 minutes T 5 hours Placebo -1 2 Agent according to the invention - 0.64% -6 -4

[0139] As early as 15 minutes after a single application by Caucasian volunteers, and compared to the placebo group, the agent according to the invention, formulated at 0.64% in a gel-cream, smooths the skin's microrelief. This smoothing effect is visible for up to 5 hours after application of the formula, during which a 6% reduction in the density of the patterns was measured. Thus, by rapidly smoothing fine lines, the agent according to the invention, formulated at 0.64% in an emulsion, helps to enhance the appearance of facial skin.

[0140] Example 5 - Efficacy of the agent according to the invention for its effects on the radiance of the complexion

[0141] The protocol of this study is identical to that of example 4.

[0142] The results of the agent in aqueous gel form on the radiance of the complexion are presented in Table 6 below.

[0143] [Tableauxô] Variation / Placebo (%) T 15 minutes T 8 hours Radiation 16 11 Pink color 18 17 Olive color -12 -11 Eye fatigue level -13 -9

[0144] Compared to placebo, the agent according to invention 1b formulated at 0.32% in aqueous gel rapidly and significantly improves the characteristic parameters of the radiance of the complexion of Caucasian volunteers.

[0145] Indeed, as soon as 15 minutes after a single application, the agent according to the invention makes the complexion brighter, fresher and reduces the olive color and fatigue of the eyes significantly compared to the placebo.

[0146] These effects continue for up to 8 hours after application, with an 11% increase in skin radiance and a 17% increase in pink color. A reduction in olive color and eye fatigue is also observed.

[0147] Thus, the agent according to the invention quickly boosts the radiance of the complexion and this effect continues throughout the day.

[0148] The results of the agent in gel-cream form on the radiance of the complexion are presented in Table 7 below.

[0149] [Tables7] Variation / Placebo (%) T 15 minutes T 5 hours Radiation 23 16 Pink color 20 19 Olive color -17 -13 Eye fatigue level -16 -13

[0150] Compared to placebo, the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.64% in gel-cream rapidly and significantly improves the characteristic parameters of the radiance of the complexion of Caucasian volunteers.

[0151] Indeed, from 15 minutes after a single application, the agent according to the invention makes the complexion brighter, fresher and improves the appearance of a healthy glow by reducing the olive color and the state of fatigue of the eyes significantly compared to the placebo.

[0152] These effects continue for 5 hours after application, with an increase in skin radiance and pink color. A decrease in olive color and eye fatigue is also observed.

[0153] By acting within 15 minutes on the main parameters of the complexion's radiance, the agent according to the invention, formulated at 0.64% in gel-cream form, provides a rapid and long-lasting radiance boost.

[0154] In conclusion, after a single application by Caucasian volunteers and compared to the placebo group, the agent according to the invention, formulated at 0.32%, improves skin texture and radiance rapidly and throughout the day. Formulated at 0.64% as a gel-cream, the agent according to the invention provides an instant radiance boost, an effect that lasts for 5 hours after application.

[0155] Example 6 - Efficacy of the agent according to the invention for its smoothing and softening effects on the body

[0156] The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo the efficacy on the body of the agent according to invention 1b formulated at 0.16% in an aqueous gel, compared to its placebo formula.

[0157] The study was carried out on 19 healthy, Caucasian, female volunteers with altered skin microrelief on their thighs.

[0158] The effect of the agent according to invention 1b on the body was evaluated 4 hours after a single application according to the following methods: a. study of cutaneous microrelief by projection of fringes; b. Skin softness study using Touchy finger®

[0159] Skin softness was assessed by an augmented and connected human finger, the TOUCHY finger®, before, then 4 hours after a single application of the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.16% in gel and of the placebo formula on the thighs.

[0160] This device, developed by the Tribology and Systems Dynamics Laboratory (LTDS) of École Centrale de Lyon and the CNRS, is equipped with vibration sensors and a pressure force sensor. It takes the form of a half-ring that slips onto the tip of the index finger. When a surface is touched, the vibrations and pressure force recorded by the device are transformed into a softness parameter.

[0161] Thus, when a surface is touched, it generates a friction noise that varies in intensity depending on the nature of the surface. The rougher the surface, the louder the sound produced and the greater the amplitude of the vibrations, and conversely, touching a smooth surface generates a soft sound and vibrations of small amplitude.

[0162] A decrease in the amplitude of the vibrations, denoted "La" and measured in decibels (dB), is therefore characteristic of an improvement in the measured softness. Velvet was used as a reference in terms of softness.

[0163] The measurement shown corresponds to the deviation from this standard of softness.

[0164] The results of the agent on the cutaneous microrelief are presented in Table 8 below. After.

[0165] [Tables8] Surface roughness variation / t0 (%) Placebo 3 Agent according to the invention -0.16% -4

[0166]

[0167] 4 hours after a single application to the thighs by volunteers Caucasians and compared to placebo, the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.16% in gel significantly smooths the skin microrelief (decrease in the Sa parameter, characteristic of the roughness of the skin surface).

[0168] Thus, the agent according to the invention makes it possible to quickly smooth the skin microrelief on the thighs

[0169] The results of the agent in aqueous gel form on skin softness are presented in Table 9 below.

[0170] [Tables9] The (dB) Delta / velvet / JO Velvet 88.85 Placebo - T0 92.40 -3.55 Placebo - T4h 92.23 -3.38 Agent according to the invention 0.1 6% - T0 92.61 -3.76 Agent according to the invention 0.1 6% - T4h 91.35 -2.50

[0171]

[0172] 4 hours after a single application to the thighs by volunteers In Caucasians, the agent according to the invention, formulated at 0.16% in gel form, significantly improves skin softness. The sensation of softness recorded after application of the formula is close to the perception of velvety softness.

[0173] Thus, the agent according to the invention improves the softness of the skin.

[0174] In conclusion, after a single application on the thigh area by Caucasian volunteers and compared to the placebo formula, the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.16% in gel, quickly smooths the skin microrelief and improves skin softness.

[0175] Example 7 - Effectiveness of the agent according to the invention for its adhesive effects

[0176] Example 7a - Makeup application - Eyeshadow

[0177] The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo, the influence of the agent according to invention 1b formulated at 0.16% in emulsion (primer), on the hold of an eyeshadow compared to a placebo formula.

[0178] The study was carried out on 21 healthy female volunteers with folds in the eyelids.

[0179] Before applying the eyeshadow, an emulsion containing the agent according to the invention, formulated at 0.16%, and a placebo formula were applied to each mobile eyelid. The eyeshadow's staying power was evaluated 6 hours after application using digital photographs taken with the Visia-CR®.

[0180] The results of the agent formulated at 0.16% in emulsion on the hold of eyeshadow compared to a placebo formula are presented in Table 10 below, as well as in [Fig.2].

[0181] [TableauxlO] Variation in eyeshadow wear / pla cebo (%) Agent according to the invention - 0.16% 21

[0182] Compared to the placebo formula, the agent according to the invention, formulated at 0.16% in an emulsion, significantly improves the staying power of eyeshadow in Caucasian volunteers. Six hours after application, 67% of subjects showed greater eyeshadow staying power on the side treated with the emulsion containing 0.16% of the agent according to the invention.

[0183] Compared to the placebo formula, the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.16% thus makes it possible to significantly improve the hold of eyeshadow in Caucasian volunteers.

[0184] Example 7b - Makeup hold - Foundation

[0185] The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo, the influence of the agent according to invention 1b formulated at 0.16% in a foundation formula, on the hold of a foundation compared to a placebo formula.

[0186] The study was conducted on a Caucasian panel consisting of 28 healthy volunteers and on an Asian panel consisting of 17 healthy volunteers.

[0187] The hold of the foundation was evaluated 6 hours after application to half of the face on digital photographs taken with Visia-CR® for the Caucasian panel and by clinical scoring of the visualization of pores by a dermatologist for the Asian panel.

[0188] The results on the Caucasian panel of the agent formulated at 0.16% in emulsion on the hold of the foundation compared to a placebo formula are presented in Table 11 below.

[0189] [Tableauxll] Variation in foundation wear / Placebo (%) Agent according to the invention - 0.16% 43

[0190]

[0191] 6 hours after application by Caucasian volunteers and compared to the In a placebo formula, the agent according to the invention, formulated at 0.16% in a foundation formula, significantly promotes the hold of makeup.

[0192] The results on the Asian panel of the agent formulated at 0.16% in emulsion on the hold of the foundation compared to a placebo formula are presented in Table 12 below.

[0193] [Tables 12] Pore ​​size Placebo -7 Agent according to the invention - 0.16% -10 -3

[0194] After application of foundation, the visibility of pores in Asian volunteers is reduced.

[0195] Compared to the placebo formula, this coverage effect is superior with the foundation containing the agent according to the invention at 0.16%, 6 hours after application, indicating better long-lasting wear. 71% of subjects also showed a reduction in the visibility of pores on the side treated with the active ingredient, compared to 59% on the side treated with the placebo.

[0196] Compared to the placebo formula, the agent according to the invention formulated at 0.16% significantly improves the hold of foundation in Caucasian and Asian volunteers.

[0197] Finally, several composition examples are described in order to demonstrate the possible applications of the agent according to the invention integrated into a cosmetic composition.

[0198] Example 9 - Composition according to the invention

[0199] An example of a composition comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a lifting serum is shown in Table 13 below.

[0200] [Tables 13] Ingredients % A Purified water qsp 100 Sodium Gluconate 0.20 Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.25 B 1,2-Hexanediol 1.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.90 E INVENTION 0.64 F 10% citric acid solution qs pH

[0201] The composition of example 9 can in particular be obtained by the following process: a. Place A under stirring. Stir until homogeneous. b. Add B to A while stirring moderately. Shake for 20 minutes. c. Add C to AB while stirring vigorously. Shake for 20 minutes. d. Add D then E under moderate stirring. e. Adjust the pH to 5.8 - 6.2 with F.

[0202] The composition then takes the form of a soft and shiny cream gel, off-white in color.

[0203] Example 10 - Composition according to the invention

[0204] An example of a composition comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of an eye contour care product is shown in Table 14 below.

[0205] [Tables 14] Ingredients % A Purified Water q.s. 100 B Sodium Polyacrylate 1.00 Isopropyl Palmitate 4.00 Squalane 2.50 C Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00 D INVENTION 0.32 E 28% Sodium hydroxide Solution q.s. pH

[0206] The composition of example 10 can in particular be obtained by the following process: a. Add B to A while stirring vigorously. Shake for 20 minutes. b. Add C then D under moderate stirring. c. Adjust the pH to 6.5 - 7.0 with E.

[0207] The composition then takes the form of a thick, glossy, off-white cream-gel.

[0208] Example 11 - Composition according to the invention

[0209] An example of a composition comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a firming treatment is shown in Table 15 below.

[0210] [Tables 15] Ingredients % A Purified Water qs 100 Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00 Butylene Glycol 3.00 B Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 1.00 Glyceryl Stearate 1.50 Diisopropyl Adipate 7.00 Triheptanoin 5.00 Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate 4.00 C Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer 0.80 D INVENTION 0.32 E 28% Sodium hydroxide solution qs pH

[0211] The composition of example 11 can in particular be obtained by the following process: a. Place A under moderate stirring and heat to 80°C. b. Place B under stirring and heat to 80°C. c. Emulsify B in A under shear agitation for 10 minutes. d. At room temperature, under moderate stirring, add C then D. e. Adjust the pH to 5.8–6.2 with E

[0212] The composition then takes the form of a soft and glossy emulsion, white in color.

[0213] Example 12 - Composition according to the invention

[0214] An example of a composition comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a firming body lotion is shown in Table 16 below.

[0215] [Tables 16] Ingredients % A Purified Water qsp 100 Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 2.00 B Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.50 Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 60 1.00 Propanediol Dicaprylate 6.00 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 6.00 Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 3.00 Tocopherol 0.01 C Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00 D INVENTION 0.16 E Citric Acid Solution 10% qs pH

[0216] The composition of example 12 can in particular be obtained by the following process: a. Place A under agitation. Shake until homogeneous. b. Emulsify B in A under shear agitation for 20 minutes. c. Under moderate stirring, add C then D. d. Adjust the pH to 5.5–6.0 with E

[0217] The composition then takes the form of a soft, glossy, white emulsion.

[0218] Example 13 - Composition according to the invention

[0219] An example 13 of a composition comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a smoothing primer is shown in Table 17 below.

[0220] [Tables 17] Ingredients % Al Purified Water qsp 100 Sodium Gluconate 0.20 Sodium Benzoate 0.25 1,2-Hexanediol 1.00 A2 Glycerin 2.00 Sclerotium Gum & Xanthan Gum 0.30 B Cl3-15 Alkane & Isododecane & Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Cro sspolymer & Caprylyl Methicone 15.00 Methyl Trimethicone 3.00 Lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Methicone 3.00 Dimethicone 2.00 C Polyacrylate-13 & Polyisobutene & Polysorbate 20 2.50 D Silica 5.00 E INVENTION 0.16 F Citric Acid Solution 10% qs pH

[0221] The composition of example 13 can in particular be obtained by the following process: a. Add A2 to Al under moderate stirring. Stir until homogeneous. b. Place B under vigorous shaking. Shake until homogeneous. c. Emulsify B in A under shear agitation for 10 minutes. d. Add C then D and E under moderate stirring. e. Adjust the pH to 5 - 5.2 with F.

[0222] The composition then takes the form of a soft, satiny, white emulsion.

[0223] Example 14 - Composition according to the invention

[0224] An example of a composition comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a lifting foundation is shown in Table 18 below.

[0225] [Tables 18] Ingredients % Al Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystea rate / Sebacate & Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride & Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate & Diisostearoyl Poly glyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate 5.00 Zinc Stearate 0.60 Undecane & Tridecane 5.00 Coco-Caprylate / Caprate & Disteardimonium Hectorite & Propylene Carbonate 12.00 Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil & Ascorbyl Palm itate & Tocopherol & Lecithin & Propylene G 0.07 lycol & Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides Citrate & Beta-Sitosterol & Squalene A2 Dicaprylyl Carbonate 6.00 Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate 4.00 CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) & Hydrogenate d Lecithin 7.00 CI 77491 (Iron Oxides) & CI 77499 (Iron Oxides) & Hydrogenated Lecithin 0.25 CI 77492 (Iron Oxides) & Hydrogenated Lee ithin 0.50 CI 77499 (Iron Oxides) & Hydrogenated Lee ithin 0.05 B1 Purified Water qsp 100 Sodium Benzoate 0.25 Acacia Senegal Gum & Xanthan Gum 0.30 B2 Citric Acid 0.02 1,2-Hexanediol 1.80 Zinc Sulfate 1.50 B3 INVENTION 0.16

[0226] The composition of example 14 can in particular be obtained by the following process: a. Place Al under shear shaking. Shake until homogeneous. b. Add A2 to Al and homogenize using Turrax c. Place B1 under stirring then add B2 and B3. d. Add B very slowly into A while stirring vigorously. e. Homogenize under Turrax

[0227] The composition then appears as a thick, glossy emulsion of medium beige color.

[0228] Example 15 - Composition according to the invention

[0229] An example of a composition comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a long-lasting eyeshadow is shown in Table 19 below.

[0230] [Tables 19] Ingredients % Al Purified water qsp 100 Sodium Gluconate 0.20 Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 4.00 A2 Acacia Senegal Gum & 2.00 Mica 3.00 Mica & CI 77491 (Iron Oxides) & CI 77 891 (Titanium Dioxide) 12.00 Mica & CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) & Tin Oxide 3.00 Alumina & Ci 77491 (Iron Oxides) 3.50

[0231] The composition of example 15 can in particular be obtained by the following process: a. Place Al under moderate agitation. Shake until homogeneous. b. Add A2 then A3 to Al under moderate stirring. Stir until homogeneous. c. Add B then C under moderate stirring.

[0232] The composition then takes the form of a thick, iridescent pink gel.

[0233] Example 16 - Composition according to the invention

[0234] An example of a composition comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a tinted gel mascara is shown in Table 20 below.

[0235] [Tables20] Ingredients % A Purified water qsp 100 Maltodextrin 2.00 B Pentylene Glycol 4.00 Acacia Senegal Gum & Xanthan Gum 2.00 Hectorite 1.50 C Sodium Dehydroacetate 0.20 INVENTION 0.16 CI 77499 (Iron Oxides) & Phytic Acid & Sodium Hydroxide 15.00 D Phenethyl Alcohol 0.50 Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil 5.00 E Cellulose 5.00 F Citric Acid Solution 10% qs pH

[0236] The composition of example 16 can in particular be obtained by the following process: a. Add B to A while stirring vigorously. Stir until a homogeneous gel is obtained. b. Add the components of C under vigorous stirring and then homogenize. c. Add D while stirring vigorously and then homogenize. d. Add E while stirring vigorously. e. Adjust the pH to 6.0 - 6.5 with F.

[0237] The composition then takes the form of a thick, glossy, intensely black gel.

[0238] Example 17 - Composition according to the invention

[0239] An example of a composition comprising the active ingredient according to the invention in the form of a two-phase fixing spray is shown in Table 21 below.

[0240] [Tables21] Ingredients % A1 Purified Water qs 100 Sodium Chloride 1.00 Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside 0.05 A2 Pentylene Glycol 2.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.90 1,2-Hexanediol 2.00 A3 INVENTION 0.16 A4 Citric Acid Solution 10% qs pH Sodium hydroxide Solution 28% qs pH B Undecane & Tridecane 12.00 C15-19 Alkane 11.50 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil & Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract 0.50 Tocopherol & Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 0.10

[0241] The composition of example 17 can in particular be obtained by the following process: a. Place Al under agitation. Shake until homogeneous. b. Add A2 then A3 to Al while stirring. Stir until homogeneous. c. Adjust the pH to 4.8 - 5.2 with A4. d. Place B under agitation. Shake until homogeneous. e. Add B to A

[0242] The composition is then in the form of a transparent two-phase solution, comprising a colorless aqueous phase and a yellow oily phase.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic tightening agent comprising biopolymers in a helical conformation, wherein said biopolymers predominantly comprise linear α-1,4-linked glucans obtained from Castanea saliva.

2. Tensor agent characterized in that the linear glucans linked in α-1,4 have molar masses between 360 Da and 360 kDa.

3. A tensor agent according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the biopolymers comprise at least 90% of linear α-1,4-linked glucans, of molar masses between 360 Da and 360 kDa by weight of the total weight of the agent.

4. A tensor agent according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glucans are functionalized by at least one carboxyl or carbonyl group.

5. A tensor agent according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that 8% of the glucoses forming the glucans are functionalized.

6. A tensor agent according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glucans are obtained by a preparation process comprising the following steps: - Solubilization of Castanea sativa containing glucans in water, - Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, - Enzymatic or chemical hydrolysis of the insoluble phase, - Optionally functionalization of the glucans.

7. Cosmetic use of a tensing agent according to any one of the preceding claims, as a cosmetic tensing and adhesive agent.

8. Cosmetic use according to the preceding claim, to improve skin radiance and / or smooth skin and / or decrease the visibility of skin pores.

9. Cosmetic use of an agent according to claim 7, to improve the hold of makeup.

10. Cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.05% of a tensing agent according to any one of claims 1 to 6, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Images