COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITIONS AND USE OF A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION

Abstract

COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITIONS AND USE OF A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION The present invention relates to cosmetic sunscreen compositions with a light, fresh, and watery feel, a blending effect, and an improved SPF, comprising (a) an oil compound system; (b) Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax; (c) a filler system; (d) a polymer and surfactant system; and (e) at least one organic UV filter. The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITIONS AND USE OF A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION. FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic sunscreen compositions with a light, fresh, and watery feel, a blending effect, and an improved SPF, comprising (a) an oil compound system; (b) Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax; (c) a filler system; (d) a polymer and surfactant system; and (e) at least one organic UV filter. The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Photoprotection of keratinous materials is considered of great importance in order to ensure protection against damage caused by the sun, sunburn, photoaging, as well as to reduce the risks of developing skin cancer caused by exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation.

[0003] Consumers are concerned about the negative effects of sun exposure, particularly the harmful effects of ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation exposure. Prolonged exposure to sunlight causes skin damage, such as sunburn. When skin is exposed to UV light with a wavelength of approximately 290 nm to approximately 400 nm, long-term damage can lead to serious conditions such as skin cancer. UV radiation also contributes to aging by causing the formation of free radicals in the skin. Free radicals include, for example, singlet oxygen, hydroxyl radicals, superoxide anions, nitric oxide, and hydrogen radicals. Free radicals attack DNA, membrane lipids, and proteins, generating carbon radicals.These, in turn, react with oxygen to produce a peroxyl radical, which can attack adjacent fatty acids to generate new carbon radicals. This cascade leads to a chain reaction producing lipid peroxidation products. Damage to the cell membrane results in a loss of cell permeability, an increase in intercellular ion concentration, and a decreased ability to excrete or detoxify waste. The end result is a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles. This process is commonly referred to as photoaging.

[0004] In this sense, in a skin care ritual, consumers apply cosmetic sunscreen compositions to protect the skin and the sensation of the product on the skin is very important.

[0005] Consumers are therefore increasingly looking for cosmetic sun products that offer a light feel and fit into their skincare routine.

[0006] Moreover, consumers are also looking for cosmetic sunscreen products that include green technology (more bio-based and biodegradable ingredients) and that do not have a negative impact on the environment.

[0007] Regarding the degree of UV protection of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, this is directly related to the quantity and type of UV filters it contains. The higher the quantity of UV filters, the greater the degree of UV (UVA / UVB) protection. Obtaining a stable cosmetic sunscreen composition with high quantities of UV filters presents a challenge.

[0008] In particular, cosmetic sunscreen compositions must offer good protection against the sun, one measure of which is the sun protection factor (SPF) value. This value is the most important property for sunscreen compositions, and it is highly desirable to offer compositions with higher SPF values. Thus, there is a need for sunscreen compositions with improved SPF values ​​to avoid the undesirable consequences of sun exposure.

[0009] However, the high levels of UV filters in sunscreen products make them less appealing due to their oily feel, sticky texture, long drying time, and shiny residue on the skin after application. The filters also tend to whiten the skin after application and after being wetted by water or perspiration, which is an undesirable attribute.

[0010] Therefore, a stable sunscreen composition with a high SPF is desired, combined with easy application, high spreading ability, short drying time, rapid absorption, a non-greasy feel, less stickiness, less white film, with a blending effect, which does not melt at high temperatures on the face, has an imperceptible touch, offers the ideal balance between hydration and oil control and combines high protection and a smooth texture for the skin.

[0011] The inventors of the present invention have overcome the drawbacks of the prior art and have obtained, in a surprising and unexpected way, a cosmetic sunscreen composition with a light and aqueous feel, a blending effect and an improved SPF, comprising, (a) an oil compound system; (b) a Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax; (c) a filler system; (d) a polymer and surfactant system and (e) at least one organic UV filter.

[0012] The use of the polymer and surfactant system combined with the ingredients of the composition provides the desired properties of the invention. In particular, the use of modified potato starch has demonstrated an unexpected reinforcing effect, offering not only a high SPF but also increasing the durability properties of the composition.

[0013] The present invention aims to provide cosmetic sunscreen compositions that are lightweight and adaptable to the consumer's skincare routine, while having improved SPF values ​​and providing higher photoprotection of keratinous materials, particularly the skin. Summary of the invention

[0014] The present invention relates to novel lightweight and refreshing cosmetic sunscreen compositions with a light, watery feel, a blending effect, and improved SPF, comprising (a) an oil compound system; (b) Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax; (c) a filler system; (d) a polymer and surfactant system; and (e) at least one organic UV filter, which surprisingly offers a lightweight feel, less stickiness, high spreadability, rapid absorption, and a non-greasy feel, with a fast-breaking and blending effect, as well as increased SPF properties of the cosmetic sunscreen compositions. The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.

[0015] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description of desirable embodiments which illustrate, by way of example, the principles of the invention. Brief description of the drawings

[0016] [Fig.1A] The [Fig.1A] is a microscopy image of the artificial skin before application of the comparative composition C2.

[0017] [Fig.1B] The [Fig.1B] is a microscopy image of the artificial skin after application of the comparative composition C2.

[0018] [Fig.1C] [Fig.1C] is a microscopic image of artificial skin before application of the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 1

[0019] [Fig. 1D] [Fig. 1D] is a microscopic image of artificial skin after application of the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 1. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0020] The cosmetic sunscreen composition with a light, watery feel, a blending effect and an enhanced SPF includes: a. a fatty compound system; b. a Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax; c. a charging system; d. a polymer and surfactant system; and e. at least one organic UV filter.

[0021] In a preferred embodiment, the fatty compound system is selected from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0022] In a preferred embodiment, the fatty compound system is present in a concentration ranging from about 1.2% to about 35.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 25.0% by weight, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] In a preferred embodiment, isopropyl myristate is present in a range of about 0.3% by weight to about 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] In another preferred embodiment, diisopropyl sebacate is present in a range of about 0.3% by weight to about 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] In another preferred embodiment, dicaprylyl carbonate is present in a range of about 0.3% by weight to about 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] In a preferred embodiment, Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 3.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] In a preferred embodiment, the filler system is chosen from silica, silica silylate, cellulose, and mixtures thereof.

[0028] In a preferred embodiment, the charging system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.06% to about 9.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 6.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] In a preferred embodiment, silica is present in a range of about 0.02% by weight to about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] In another preferred embodiment, silica silylate is present in a range of about 0.02% by weight to about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] In another preferred embodiment, cellulose is present in a range of about 0.02% by weight to about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] In a preferred embodiment, the polymer of the polymer and surfactant system is selected from Cio-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, modified potato starch, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof.

[0033] In a preferred embodiment, the surfactant of the polymer and surfactant system is selected from arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, and mixtures thereof.

[0034] In another preferred embodiment, the polymer and surfactant system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.1% to about 7.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.3% to about 4.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] In a preferred embodiment, the polymer is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% by weight to about 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] In a preferred embodiment, the C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer present in the polymer and surfactant system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] In a preferred embodiment, the modified potato starch present in the polymer and surfactant system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] In a preferred embodiment, the cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose present in the polymer and surfactant system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] In a preferred embodiment, the surfactant is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] In a preferred embodiment, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside present in the polymer and surfactant system are present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] In a preferred embodiment, the polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate present in the polymer and surfactant system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] In a preferred embodiment, polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax present in the polymer and surfactant system are present in a concentration ranging from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] In a preferred embodiment, at least one organic UV filter is selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] In a preferred embodiment, at least one organic UV filter is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.1% to about 30.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 25.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] In a preferred embodiment, at least one organic UV filter is free of octocrylene, homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate.

[0046] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is free of silicones.

[0047] In one embodiment, the pH of the composition ranges from approximately 4.0 to 6.5.

[0048] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further include an amino acid.

[0049] In a preferred embodiment, the amino acid is arginine, among others.

[0050] In a preferred embodiment, the amino acid is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.001% to about 1.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.005% to about 0.5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.0075% to about 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further include additional ingredients such as solvents, vitamins, active compounds or preservatives.

[0052] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention has a blurring effect and breaks down instantly upon application, creating a very watery sensation.

[0053] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention has an improved SPF property, which provides several beneficial attributes to the product, including protection of the skin against damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, known as UVA and UVB rays, as well as visible and infrared light, a lightweight feel, easy application, good spreading ability, less It has a white film, less shine, does not melt at high temperatures on the face, has an imperceptible feel, and combines high protection with a smooth texture on the skin. Furthermore, the composition of the present invention is stable over time and offers increased film deposition and enhanced UV absorption.

[0054] In another preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention for the manufacture of a product for use as a daily sunscreen product. Terms

[0055] As used herein, the expression "at least" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0056] Except in the functional examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions are understood to be modified in all cases by the term "approximately", meaning to within + / - 10% of the number indicated.

[0057] As used herein, the term "including" should be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features.

[0058] As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the features specifically mentioned are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0059] The terms "a", "an", "the" and "the" are understood to encompass both the plural and the singular.

[0060] As used herein, the expressions "and their mixtures", "and one of their mixtures", "and their combinations", "and one of their combinations", "or their mixtures", "or one of their mixtures", "or their combinations", and "or one of their combinations" are used interchangeably to indicate that the list of components immediately preceding the expression, such as "A, B, C, D, or their mixtures", means that the component(s) may be chosen from A, from B, from C, from D, from A+B, from A+B+C, from A+D, from A+C+D, etc., without limitation on the variations thereof. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any of their combinations.

[0061] The term "SPF," as used here, refers to the "Sun Protection Factor," which indicates the level of protection against UVB radiation provided by a product. The SPF indicates the amount of time a person can be exposed to sunlight while using sunscreen before getting sunburned, and the amount of time they can be exposed to sunlight without getting sunburned.

[0062] The expression "rapid break-through effect," as used herein, refers to the sensation perceived immediately after the application of the sunscreen composition to the skin. It refers to how the sunscreen spreads and "breaks through" easily on the skin, leaving a watery feel with a light, fast-absorbing sensation, without leaving any sticky or oily residue. This is essentially the initial sensory experience of the product on the skin. FAT COMPOUND SYSTEM

[0063] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises a fatty compound system.

[0064] The fatty compound system according to the present invention offers better spreading capacity and better solubilization of the filter.

[0065] Preferably, the fatty compound system according to the present invention is chosen from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0066] In addition to preferred fatty compounds, the composition of the present invention may include diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl ether, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dibutyl adipate, isoamyl caprate-caprylate, and mixtures thereof. COPERNICIA CERIFERA WAX (CARNAUBA)

[0067] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises a wax from Copemicia cerifera (camauba).

[0068] Camauba wax (Copemicia cerifera wax) is a hard wax scraped from the leaves and petioles of camauba palms, Copemicia cerifera. Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax comprises C18-C32 fatty acid esters and C28-C34 alcohols, also containing large amounts of hydroxy acid esters and having melting points around 80 °C and 86 °C.

[0069] In addition, Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax usually comprises about 80% by weight to about 85% by weight of fatty esters, about 1% by weight to about 5% by weight of alcohols, about 1% by weight to about 5% by weight of hydrocarbons, about 1% by weight to about 5% by weight of free acids, about 1% by weight to about 6% by weight of resins, about 1% by weight to about 5% by weight of lactic components and about 0.1% by weight to about 2% by weight of moisture.

[0070] In particular, Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax is a complex composition containing up to 10% cinnamic acid, which is responsible for its UV absorption profile and serves to give thickness to the oily phase and stability to the formulation. CHARGING SYSTEM

[0071] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises a charging system.

[0072] The term “charge” refers to colorless or white solid particles of any shape, which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0073] The combination of fillers according to the present invention offers better oil control and a better blending effect to the cosmetic sunscreen composition.

[0074] The cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the invention include spherical amorphous silica, silica silylate, and cellulose, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the average size of these spherical amorphous silica particles is less than 15.0 µm and, more particularly, ranges from 3 to 10 µm. The useful spherical amorphous silica particles according to the invention are colorless or white solid particles of any shape, which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. The spherical amorphous silica may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent, although it is free of such coatings in some embodiments.

[0075] The "silica silylate" according to the present invention is a hydrophobic silica aerogel, as described in WO 2021 / 016680. The term "hydrophobic silica" refers to any silica whose surface is treated with silylation agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example, trimethylsilyl groups. The preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface-modified by silylation is found in US Patent No. 7,470,725. In one embodiment, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups are desirable.

[0076] Non-limiting examples of useful powdered fillers in the invention include, for example, talc, mica, aluminum magnesium silicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, perlite powders, fluorophlogopite, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, lauroyllysine, metallic soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof. The powdered filters do not include powdered pigments. POLYMER AND SURFACTANT SYSTEM

[0077] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises a polymer and surfactant system.

[0078] According to the present invention, the polymer and surfactant system has the function of helping to achieve a rapid breaking effect (aqueous sensitivity) and the formation of a homogeneous deposit which promotes an increase in SPF.

[0079] Preferably, the polymer according to the present invention is chosen from C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, modified potato starch, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Modified potato starch is considered a biopolymer and provides an SPF enhancer.

[0081] Preferably, the surfactant according to the present invention is selected from arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, and mixtures thereof. Additional surfactants

[0082] Non-limiting examples of additional anionic surfactants for the embodiment of the present invention are chosen from the group comprising alkyl sulfates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, sulfonates, such as alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, taurates and N-acyl N-methyltaurates, isethionates, N-acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates, alkyl phosphates and phosphates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates,D-galactoside uronic acid salts, alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acid salts, and alkylamido ether carboxylic acid salts; or the unsalted forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl group designating a phenyl group. Some of these compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0083] Non-limiting examples of nonionic surfactants for the embodiment of the present invention are, for example, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, such as polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate; mixtures of alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol with polyglyceryl, such as oxyalkylated (more particularly polyoxyethylated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene glycols); sugar esters, for example sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), such as decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and cetostearyl glucoside, optionally in a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition. Other examples include lecithins and derivatives (for example, biophilic), sugar esters, and sodium stearoyl lactylate. ORGANIC UV FILTER

[0084] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises at least one organic UV filter.

[0085] According to the present invention, UV filters are compounds active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The organic UV filter can be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic. Organic UV filters

[0086] Preferably, the UV filtration system according to the present invention corresponds to organic UV filters selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof. Additional organic UV filters

[0087] Additional organic UV filters may be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; α-alkylstyrene derivative dimers; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds; guaiazulene and its derivatives; rutin and its derivatives; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and its derivatives; quinic acid and its derivatives; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides having an aromatic amino acid residue; and mixtures thereof.

[0088] Examples of organic UV filter(s) include those listed below under their INCI names and their mixtures. Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate. Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Isopropyl dibenzoylmethane. Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate; cinoxate (2- ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate) ; DEA methoxycinnamate ; düsopropyl methylcinnamate ; et glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate. Composés salicyliques : glycol salicylate ; butyloctyl salicylate ; phenyl salicylate ; dipropyleneglycol salicylate ; et TEA salicylate. Composés camphre, en particulier les dérivés de benzylidènecamphre : 3-benzylidene camphor ; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor ; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid ; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate ; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid ; et polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor.Composés benzophénone : Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone) ; benzophenone-2 (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone) ; Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) ou oxybenzone ; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid) ; benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate) ; benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone) ; benzophenone-8; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate) ; et benzophenone-12, et n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate. Composé [3,[3-Diphénylacrylate : Etocrylene. . Triazine compounds: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine. Benzotriazole compounds, especially phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear, and those described in USP 5240975. Benzalmalonate compounds: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15. Benzimidazole compounds, especially phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate. Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate. Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: Derivatives as described in EP-669 323 and US Patent No. 2 463 264. Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA.Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methylphenol], 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol], and derivatives as described in US Patent Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26184 and EP-893,119, and Drometrizole trisiloxane. Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine.

[0089] In certain embodiments, it is desirable that the filter(s) organic UV(s) be chosen from the group consisting of: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, 1,r-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene diamphr sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilyloxy]-disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis[5-l (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, camphor benzylkonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

[0090] The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention may also include any other additional ingredient that is commonly used in the field of sunscreen products, in particular sunscreen compositions.

[0091] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further include additional ingredients such as solvents, vitamins, active compounds or preservatives.

[0092] Non-limiting examples of solvents according to the present invention include alcohols, water, propanediol, among others, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Non-limiting examples of vitamins include tocopherol, among others.

[0094] Non-limiting examples of preservatives according to the present invention include the chlorphenesin, hydroxyacetophenone, among others.

[0095] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional ingredients so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the sunscreen composition according to the present invention.

[0096] A person skilled in the art shall ensure that the optional additional ingredients and / or their quantity are selected so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, compromised by the envisaged addition.

[0097] The additional ingredients may represent from about 0.1% to about 70.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. METHOD OF IMPLEMENTING THE INVENTION

[0098] In a non-limiting embodiment, the composition of a cosmetic sunscreen with a light, watery feel, a blending effect and an improved sun protection factor is as follows: a. from about 1.2% to about 35.0% by weight of a fatty compound system; b. from approximately 0.05% to approximately 5.0% by weight of Copemicia cerifera wax (carnauba); c. from about 0.06% to about 9.0% by weight of a filler system selected from silica, silica silylate, cellulose, and mixtures thereof; d. from approximately 0.1% to approximately 7.0% by weight of a polymer and surfactant system,

[0099] wherein the polymer is selected from C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, modified potato starch, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof,

[0100] wherein the surfactant is selected from arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, and mixtures thereof; and

[0101] (e) of approximately 0.1% to approximately 30.0% by weight of at least one organic UV filter, selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof;

[0102] all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.

[0103] METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION

[0104] The present invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a cosmetic sunscreen composition that provides the consumer with the properties described above. The method according to the present invention comprises the steps of:

[0105] Step (a): Preparation of an oily phase by mixing UV filters, surfactants, fatty compounds, until total homogenization;

[0106] Step (b): Preparation of an aqueous phase by mixing water, aqueous phase fillers;

[0107] Step (c): Addition of the aqueous phase from step (b) to the oily phase from step (a) under mixing until complete formation of the emulsion;

[0108] Step (d): Addition of polymers after emulsification in step (c) under mixing until total homogenization;

[0109] incorporation of additional ingredients in step (d). EXAMPLES Examples 1 to 5

[0110] Non-limiting examples of cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention are Examples 1 to 5 shown in Table 1 below. [YES] [Table 1] INCI EX FUNCTION. 1 EX. 2 EX. 3 EX. 4 EX. 5 FAT COMPOUND SYSTEM DTSOPROPYLE MYRISTATE (ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE) 17.00 14.25 14.10 14.15 14.40 DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE (DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE) DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE (DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE) FAT COMPOUND COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX (COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX) 0.40 0.35 0.45 0.43 0.40 FILLER SYSTEM SILICA (SILICA) 4.50 3.80 4.70 4.40 3.70 SILICA SILYLATE (SILICA SILYLATE) CELLULOSE SYSTEM OF POLYMER AND SURFACTANT CROSS-CROSS-CUT ACRYLATES / C10 30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSS-CUT POLYMER (ACRYLATES / C10 30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSS-CUT POLYMER) 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 MODIFIED POTATO STARCH 0.20 0.30 0.20 0.20 0.30 CETYL HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.10 0.075 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL AND BEHENYL ALCOHOL AND ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 ALCOHOL AND BEHENYL ALCOHOL AND ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE) POLYGLYCERYL-3 METHYCLE GLUCOSE DISTEARATE (POLYGLYCE RYL-3-METHYLGLUCOSE DISTEARATE) 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 POLYGLYCERYL-6 DISTEARATE AND JOJOBA ESTERS AND CETYL ALCOHOL AND POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEESWAX (POLYGLYCE RYL-6 DISTEARATE AND JOJOBA ESTERS AND CETYL ALCOHOL AND POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEESWAX) 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.25 0.30 UV FILTRATION SYSTEM BUTYL METHOXYDIBEN ZOYL-METHANE (BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYL-METHANE) 14.00 13.50 14.15 14.20 13.70 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE (ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZON E) BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPH ENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE (BIS-ETHYLH EXYLOXYPHENOL METHANE) OXYPHENYL TRIAZINE) DIETHY LAMINO HYDROXYBENZ OYL HEXYL BENZOATE (DIETHY LAMINO HYDROXYBENZ OYL HEXYL BENZOATE) SOLVENT ALCOHOL 10.00 10.50 10.25 10.50 10.00 PROPANEDIOL WATER QS QS QS QS QS AMINO ACID ARGININE 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.030 0.05 VITAMIN TOCOPHEROL 0.50 0.60 0.00 0.45 0.55 PRESERVATIVE HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 CHLORPHENESIN

[0112] Example 6 - Comparative performance of FPS enhancement

[0113] A comparative in vivo evaluation of strengthening performance was performed between Examples 1 and 2. The methodology used complied with the standard procedure IS024444:2019 / Amd1:2022 and AS / NZS 2604:2021 in a single-blind, parallel-control clinical study. The comparative evaluation was conducted with 10 healthy female subjects, aged 18 to 65 years, with phototypes II and III.

[0114] The cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 were applied to the subject's dry skin and irradiated with a controlled dose of ultraviolet radiation (product applied with small circular motions without a finger cot and with an application time between 32 and 38 seconds). The resulting SPF was calculated as an arithmetic mean, with a 95% confidence interval (CI), of all individual SPF values.

[0115] The mean static in vivo FPS for Example 1 with ten valid results was 54.6.

[0116] The mean static in vivo FPS for Example 2 with ten valid results was 68.1.

[0117] In conclusion, the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 2 of the present invention, comprising an increased amount of modified potato starch, exhibits superior SPF performance (an increase of 14 SPF points measured in vivo) compared to the cosmetic sunscreen composition of Example 1. Example 7 – FP-UVA Performance

[0118] An in vivo FP-UVA performance analysis was performed between Examples 1 and 2. The methodology used conformed to the ISO 24442 standard procedure. FP-UVA performance is a simple ratio of the number of seconds or Joules / m² accumulated from light exposure, divided by the value of unprotected exposure in seconds. The evaluation was conducted on 5 healthy male and female subjects, aged 18 to 65 years, with phototypes III and IV.

[0119] A very precisely measured and controlled quantity (2 mg / cm²) of the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 was applied to a marked area of ​​the subject's dry skin (product applied with small circular motions without a finger cot and application time between 33 and 38 seconds). The cosmetic sunscreen compositions were allowed to dry for 15 to 30 minutes and irradiated with a controlled dose of ultraviolet radiation. The FP-UVA result was calculated as an arithmetic mean, with a 95% confidence interval (CI), of all the individual FP-UVA values.

[0120] The mean FP-UVA value for Example 1 with five valid results was 18.3.

[0121] The mean FP-UVA value for Example 2 with five valid results was 19.9.

[0122] An effective cosmetic sunscreen composition has an average FP-UVA between 10.7 and 14.7. In conclusion, the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention exhibit improved FP-UVA performance. Example 8 - Sensory Performance

[0123] In order to evaluate the sensory performance of the cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention, the following studies were carried out. Example 8.1 - Sensory Expert

[0124] A comparative test between the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 3 of the present invention and a prior art sunscreen composition Cl was carried out.

[0125] The comparative composition Cl presented the following list of ingredients on the packaging: aqua (water), isododecane, homosalate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ceramide NP, ceramide EOP, ceramide AP, ceramide AS, ceramide NS, centella asiatica extract, bisabolol, bifida ferment lysate, C1215 alkyl benzoate, methyl methacrylate cross-linked polymer, silica dimethyl silylate, ethylhexyl triazone, silica, methicone, caprylyl methicone, disteardimonium hectorite, propylene carbonate, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Portulaca oleracea extract, ethylhexylglycerin, tocopherol.

[0126] For this evaluation, professionals trained in the evaluation of sunscreens compared several desirable characteristics of a sunscreen composition.

[0127] Consequently, the experts concluded that the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 3 of the present invention exhibits an improved aqueous feel, improved absorption, fewer wrinkles under the eyes, fewer fine lines on a dehydrated face, while also being less shiny and easier to apply. In contrast, the comparative Cia sunscreen composition showed an increased oily and powdery / velvety feel. Example 8.2 - Sensory Panel

[0128] A sensory panel evaluated the sensation properties of cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention compared to the prior art sunscreen compositions Cl and C2.

[0129] The comparative composition Cl is as specified in Example 8.1. Comparative Composition C2 presented the following list of ingredients on the packaging: Aqua (Water), Octocrylene, Propanediol, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Methyl Polymethacrylate, Dimethicone, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Polysilicone-15, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, Tromethamine, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Silica, Dimethicone / Vinyldimethicone Crosslinked Polymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 60, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum (Fragrance), Disodium EDTA, PEG-8, Tocopherol, Tropolone, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Acid ascorbic acid, citric acid.

[0130] For this evaluation, the panelists were asked to describe the differences between the samples and to give an indication of the differences between them. The panelists concluded that the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention exhibit rapid absorption and less residue, as well as a low-greasy application and low-greasy fingers, resulting in a pleasant feel, compared to the comparative compositions Cl and C2.

[0131] According to the panelists, in terms of application, Cl promotes more white film, and C2 promotes more white film, soapy effect and immediately sticky skin than the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 2.

[0132] Regarding the immediate skin finish, the panelists concluded that C1 tends to deliver whiter skin, and C2 tends to deliver brighter skin and promote a more slippery skin than the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 2.

[0133] In conclusion, the most appreciated attributes of the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention were their good absorption, sensations of clean and comfortably dry skin, sebum control during the day, hydration and a silky feel. Example 8.3 - Gloss Analysis

[0134] A comparative gloss analysis was performed between the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 1 of the present invention and the comparative sunscreen composition C2. The analysis was performed using a glossmeter.

[0135] The results of the brightness analysis are summarized in Table 2 below.

[0136] [Tables2] Cosmetic sunscreen composition. Shine level C2 - 36.90. Example 1 - 57.87

[0137] Gloss analysis shows that the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention have a less glossy finish compared to prior art compositions. This difference is due to the incorporation of the specific combination of silica, silica silylate, and cellulose in the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention, which act as mattifying agents, absorbing excess oil and sebum on the skin's surface.

[0138] This result demonstrates that the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention effectively meet the needs of consumers who are looking for products with effective shine control. Example 8.4 - Blurring Effect

[0139] A comparative fading effect test was carried out between the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 1 of the present invention and the comparative sunscreen composition C2. The results of the fading test are shown in Figures IA to 1D.

[0140] Initially, a microscopic image of the artificial skin was taken (Figures IA and IC). Then, the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 1 was applied to the artificial skin and allowed to dry. After drying, a new microscopic image was taken (Figures IB and ID).

[0141] Figures IB and 1D demonstrate that the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention has a matte appearance and a blurring effect when applied to artificial skin.

[0142] This superior property is linked to the incorporation of the specific combination of silica, silica silylate and cellulose in the sunscreen compositions cosmetics according to the present invention. Larger cellulose particles act as fillers and diffuse light, helping to fill in skin imperfections and creating a smoother, more even surface. Silica and silica silylate, with their smaller particles, focus on oil absorption and providing a soft-focus effect, respectively. This combined performance gives the skin a more even and smooth appearance, without excessive shine. Example 9 – FPS performance in vitro

[0143] An in vitro study was conducted to evaluate the in vitro SPF values ​​of cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Examples 4 and 5.

[0144] The in vitro SPF of the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 4 was 50.3 and the in vitro SPF of the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Example 5 was 50.4.

[0145] The results of the in vitro SPF test demonstrate that the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention exhibit improved SPF properties.

[0146] The Examples have demonstrated that cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention offer a light, watery feel and superior application and finish, as well as increased SPF properties compared to standard cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the prior art.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic sunscreen composition with a light, watery feel, blending effect and enhanced SPF, comprising: (a) an oil compound system, selected from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof; (b) Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax; (c) a filler system, selected from silica, silica silylate, cellulose, and mixtures thereof; (d) a polymer and surfactant system, wherein the polymer is selected from crosslinked acrylates / alkyl acrylate CiO₃ol modified potato starch, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof, wherein the surfactant is selected from arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, and mixtures thereof;and (e) at least one organic UV filter, selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof.;

2. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1, wherein the fatty compound system is present in a concentration from 1.2% to 35.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1, wherein Copernicia cerifera (camauba) wax is present in a concentration ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1, wherein the filler system is present in a concentration ranging from 0.06% to 9.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1, wherein the polymer and surfactant system is present in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 7.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1, wherein the polymer is present in a concentration from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant is present in a concentration ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1, wherein at least one organic UV filter is present in a concentration from 0.1% to 30.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises an amino acid.

10. Cosmetic sunscreen composition with a light, watery feel, a blending effect and an enhanced SPF, comprising: (a) 3.5% to 20.0% by weight of a fatty compound system; (b) 0.3% to 2.0% by weight of Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax; (c) 0.2% to 5.0% by weight of a filler system selected from silica, silica silylate, cellulose, and mixtures thereof; (d) 0.5% to 3.5% by weight of a polymer and surfactant system, wherein the polymer is selected from crosslinked acrylates / alkyl acrylate in CiO3O, modified potato starch, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof, wherein the surfactant is selected from arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) cetyl alcohol (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, and mixtures thereof;and (e) 0.75% to 20.0% by weight of at least one organic UV filter selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof; wherein all weights are based on the total weight of the composition.

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