External part component of a watch or of a fashion or jewellery item and method for manufacturing such an external part

Abstract

The present invention relates to an external part (10) of a watch, fashion item or piece of jewelry, comprising a substrate (11) made of a transparent material, said substrate (11) comprising an upper surface (110) and a lower surface (111) opposite each other, said external part (10) comprising a base layer (12) deposited on a first portion (1101) of said upper surface (110) and at least one sub-layer (13) deposited on said base layer (12) and on a second portion (1102) of said upper surface (110), said first and second portions (1101, 1102) of said upper surface (110) having different surface conditions.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of watches, fashion items or jewelry, and more particularly to an external component of a watch, fashion item or jewelry and to a method of manufacturing such an external component.

[0002] In the present document, the concept of "fashion item" encompasses clothing or accessories, such as a belt, shoes, clothes, etc., and further encompasses eyewear items, mobile phone items or any ornament. BACKGROUND

[0003] In particular in the field of watchmaking, external components for watches (flanges, bezels, etc.) can have a decoration made of a plurality of thin layers deposited at the surface of a base material.

[0004] Depending on the size and the number of details of the decoration of the external component, the manufacturing of the external component can be quite complex. In particular, the compatibility of the alignment tolerances of the thin layers with respect to each other can be particularly problematic.

[0005] In this context, the purpose of the present invention is to improve the accuracy and the quality of the decoration of an external component of a watch, in particular in terms of visual effects of juxtaposed thin layers visible through a transparent base material.

[0006] In particular, the present invention addresses the problem of compatibility of the alignment tolerances of the decoration on an external component, in particular the alignment of the thin layers with respect to each other, and the alignment of the thin layers with respect to the structure on which they are deposited.

[0007] Generally, the above-mentioned problems are encountered in the field of fashion items or jewelry. SUMMARY

[0008] To this end, the present invention relates to an external component of a watch, fashion item or jewelry, comprising a base material made of a transparent material, said base material comprising an upper surface and a polished lower surface opposite each other. The external component further comprises a base layer deposited on a first portion of the upper surface and at least one secondary layer deposited on a second portion of the upper surface. The first and second portions of the upper surface have different surface conditions.

[0009] In particular embodiments, the present invention can also comprise one or more of the following features, taken individually or according to any technically feasible combination.

[0010] In particular embodiments, the first portion of the upper surface is polished and the second portion of the upper surface has at least one structured portion.

[0011] In particular embodiments, the base layer and the secondary layer have different compositions.

[0012] In a particular embodiment, the base layer and the sub-layer comprise a through opening opening onto a third portion of the upper surface of the substrate.

[0013] In a particular embodiment, the outer part comprises a lower base layer deposited on a first portion of the lower surface, the outer part further comprising a lower sub-layer deposited on a structured second portion of the lower surface. The lower base layer and the lower sub-layer comprise a lower through opening opening onto a third portion of the lower surface extending at least opposite the first portion and the second portion of the upper surface.

[0014] According to another aspect, the application relates to a watch dial formed from an outer part as described above.

[0015] According to another aspect, the application relates to a decorative element for a mobile phone case, the decorative element being formed from an outer part as described above.

[0016] According to another aspect, the application relates to a method for manufacturing an outer part for a watch, an item of fashion or a piece of jewelry, the method comprising the following steps:

[0017] - polishing a lower surface of a substrate made of a transparent material,

[0018] - depositing a base layer on all or part of the upper surface of the substrate,

[0019] - locally removing said base layer, during which a portion of said base layer remains on a first portion of the upper surface of the substrate, said local removal being performed so as to form at least one recess opening onto a second portion of the upper surface of the substrate and so as to structure said second portion of the upper surface of the substrate,

[0020] - depositing a sub-layer on the base layer and on the second portion of the upper surface of the substrate.

[0021] In a particular embodiment, the method comprises a preliminary polishing step of polishing the upper surface of the substrate.

[0022] In a particular embodiment, the method comprises an etching step during which a portion of the base layer and a portion of the sub-layer are removed over their entire thickness without affecting the substrate so as to form at least one through opening opening onto a third portion of the upper surface of the substrate.

[0023] In a particular embodiment, the method comprises the following successive steps:

[0024] - depositing a lower base layer on all or part of the lower surface of the substrate,

[0025] - locally removing the lower base layer so as to form a lower structure on a second portion of the lower surface of the substrate,

[0026] - depositing a lower sub-layer on the lower base layer and on the lower structured portion,

[0027] - etching to produce one or more lower through openings, which open onto a third portion of the lower surface of the substrate, the production of the lower through openings being such that said third portion of the lower surface extends at least opposite the first and second portions of the upper surface.

[0028] In a particular embodiment, the method comprises a final step of depositing an anti-reflective coating on one or both of the upper and lower surfaces of the substrate.

[0029] In a particular embodiment, the step of locally removing the base layer is carried out by laser. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0030] Other features and advantages of the application will appear on reading the detailed description that follows, given as non-limiting examples, and with reference to the drawings in which:

[0031] - Figure 1 and Figure 2 respectively schematically show a cross-sectional view of an exterior part during its manufacture by the steps of a manufacturing method according to a preferred embodiment of the application;

[0032] - Figures 3 to 5 respectively schematically show a cross-sectional view of an exterior part obtained by the implementation of a manufacturing method according to the application in some embodiments of the application.

[0033] It should be noted that the drawings are not drawn to scale. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0034] The application relates to an exterior part 10 shown in different embodiments in Figures 3 to 5 , and to an exterior part 10 shown during the steps of its manufacture in Figure 1 and Figure 2 .

[0035] Advantageously, the application can comprise a decorative element of a watch, fashion item or piece of jewelry.

[0036] The term "fashion item" defines any garment or accessory, such as a belt, shoes, clothing, etc., and further comprises eyewear, a cell phone item (such as a cell phone case) or any ornament.

[0037] The exterior part 10 comprises a substrate 11 made of a transparent material. It should be noted that the term "transparent" means here the ability of the material to pass through, in whole or in part, light radiation, in particular visible to the naked eye. The transparent material can be sapphire, glass, etc.

[0038] The substrate 11 comprises an upper surface 110 and a lower surface 111 opposite each other, at least in Figure 3 and Figure 4 In the embodiments of the application illustrated in Figs. 1 to 3, the user is able to see, through the substrate 11 from the lower surface 111, the ornament of the exterior part 10. Advantageously, the lower surface 111 of the substrate 11 is therefore preferably polished.

[0039] In particular, in these embodiments, the lower surface 111 is intended to be oriented towards the exterior environment, the upper surface 110 being intended to be oriented towards the interior environment, for example, in the case where the exterior part 10 is a movement of a watch, the upper surface 110 being opposite the watch movement.

[0040] In the present text, the relative terms "lower" and "upper" are used here to describe the elements on the basis of their arrangement as illustrated in the figures, and do not necessarily describe the absolute position of said elements. Thus, the skilled person understands that these terms can be interchanged with other terms, and that the embodiments described here can be operated in a direction other than that illustrated in the figures and described.

[0041] The exterior part 10 comprises a base layer 12 deposited on a first portion 1101 of the upper surface 110 and at least one secondary layer 13 deposited on the base layer 12 and on a second portion 1102 of the upper surface 110 not covered by said base layer 12. As Figures 3 to 5 illustrated, the first portion 1101 and the second portion 1102 of the upper surface 110 are continuous with each other.

[0042] Advantageously, the first portion 1101 and the second portion 1102 of the upper surface 110 have different surface conditions.

[0043] In particular, the first portion 1101 of the upper surface 110 is preferably polished, the second portion 1102 of the upper surface 110 preferably having at least one structured portion 112. In the present description of the application, hereinafter reference is made to a single second portion 1102 and therefore to a single structured portion 112, in order to facilitate reading. The concept of "structured portion" here defines a surface whose topography has been modified, which can include satin finishing, texturing, etching, etc. Advantageously, the different surface conditions of the upper surface 110 of the substrate 11 and the bonding between the base layer 12, the secondary layer 13 can form an ornament that is particularly attractive.

[0044] As Figures 3 to 5 illustrated, the secondary layer 13 matches the structured portion 112 on the portion of its surface opposite the second portion 1102 of the upper surface 110. Thus, the secondary layer 13 reproduces the structured portion 112 on its outer face, i.e. the face of the secondary layer 13 oriented in the direction opposite the substrate.

[0045] Preferably, the base layer 12 and the sub-layer 13 have different compositions. They can be made of metal, for example chromium, gold, titanium, zirconium, etc., or of ceramic or any suitable material. One or both of these layers can be formed by a stack of thin layers in a manner known per se to the person skilled in the art. The base layer 12 and / or the sub-layer 13 can be opaque or translucent.

[0046] In the embodiment illustrated in Figure 4 In the embodiment illustrated in

[0047] Advantageously, when the base layer 12 and the sub-layer 13 comprise the through opening 15, the user is thus able to observe through the external component 10.

[0048] In this case, the external component 10 can comprise an anti-reflection coating (not illustrated in the figures) deposited on the lower surface 111 of the substrate 11 and / or on the sub-layer 13 and on the third portion 1103 of the upper surface 110 of the substrate 11.

[0049] In the embodiment illustrated in Figure 5 In the embodiment illustrated in

[0050] As in the embodiment illustrated in Figure 4 The lower base layer 12' and the lower sub-layer 13' can comprise at least one lower through opening 15', which opens onto a third portion 1113 of the lower surface 111 extending at least opposite the first portion 1101 and the second portion 1102 of the upper surface 110, as illustrated in Figure 5 This thus makes it possible for the user to see, from the lower surface 111, through the substrate 11, the different surface conditions of the upper surface 110 of the substrate 11 and the ornament resulting from the combination between the base layer 12, the sub-layer 13.

[0051] As in the embodiment illustrated in Figure 3 and Figure 4The illustrated embodiment is similar, the lower sub-layer 13' matching the lower structuring 112' on the part of its surface opposite the second part 1112 of the lower surface 111. Thus, the lower sub-layer 13' replicates the lower structuring 112' on its outer surface, i.e. the face of the lower sub-layer 13' oriented in the direction opposite the substrate 11, as Figure 5 illustrated.

[0052] Furthermore, the outer part 10 is preferably made from a manufacturing method whose steps are, in chronological order, illustrated by Figures 1 to 3 illustrated, possibly in other embodiments of implementation by Figures 1 to 4 illustrated or by Figures 1 to 5 illustrated.

[0053] More particularly, this manufacturing method comprises a step of polishing the lower surface 111 of the substrate 11, then a step of depositing the base layer 12 on all or part of the upper surface 110 of the substrate 11, as Figure 1 illustrated.

[0054] This deposition can be carried out by physical vapour deposition, chemical vapour deposition or any other suitable method.

[0055] Preferably, before depositing the base layer 12, the upper surface 110 is polished during a preliminary polishing step.

[0056] Next, this method comprises a step of locally removing the base layer 12, as Figure 2 illustrated, so as to form one or more recesses 14 to the upper surface 110 of the substrate 11 and simultaneously structure said upper surface 110 at this or each recess 14 so as to form a structuring 112.

[0057] More particularly, after completion of the local removal step, the parts of the base layer 12 not affected by the removal rest on the first part 1101 of the upper surface 110 of the substrate 11, the recess 14 opens onto the second part 1102 of the upper surface 110 and said second part 1102 of the upper surface 110 is structured. Thus, this or each structuring 112 preferably coincides with the recess 14 through which it is produced and thus with the base layer 12.

[0058] The local removal of the base layer 12 and thus the formation of the structuring 112 of the second part 1102 of the upper surface 110 is preferably carried out by laser machining. Alternatively, the local removal step can be carried out by automated etching with a diamond drill, by mechanical machining, by chemical machining, etc.

[0059] Next, a step of depositing a sub-layer 13 is implemented on the base layer 12 and in the recess 14, i.e. on the second portion 1102 of the upper surface 110 of the substrate 11, so as to obtain the outer part 10, as shown in Figure 3 Thus, the compatibility of the alignment tolerances of the base layer 12 and of the sub-layer 13 with the first and second portions 1101, 1102 of the upper surface 110 having different surface conditions is ensured.

[0060] It should be noted that the visual effect aspect of the ornament of the outer part 10 can be particularly attractive to some extent thanks to the features of the application, since, in addition to the contrast between the color aspect of the base layer 12 and the color aspect of the sub-layer 13, there is also a contrast between the different surface conditions of the different portions of the upper surface 110 on which said layers are respectively deposited.

[0061] The deposition of the sub-layer 13 can also be implemented by physical vapor deposition, chemical vapor deposition or any other suitable method.

[0062] Finally, the method can comprise an etching step in which a portion of the base layer 12 and a portion of the sub-layer 13 are removed over their entire thickness so as to shape said layers according to a predetermined shape, without affecting the substrate 11, as shown in Figure 4 .

[0063] This etching step allows the formation of at least one through opening 15 which opens onto a third portion 1103 of the upper surface 110 of the substrate 11.

[0064] This etching step can be achieved by lithography, laser machining, etc.

[0065] As an alternative to this final step, in order to manufacture the outer part of the embodiment shown in Figure 5 , the method can comprise the following successive steps: depositing a lower base layer 12' on all or part of the lower surface 111, then locally removing the lower base layer 12' in a similar manner to the local removal step of the base layer 12. More particularly, during the step of locally removing the lower base layer 12', a lower structured portion 112' is formed on the second portion 1112 of the lower surface 111 of the substrate 11, the remaining lower base layer 12' resting on the first portion 1111 of said lower surface 111. Next, a step of depositing a lower sub-layer 13' is implemented on the lower base layer 12' and on the lower structured portion 112'.

[0066] After that, an etching step is intended to produce one or more lower through openings 15' opening onto a third portion 1111 of the lower surface 111 of the substrate 11, as shown in Figure 5The one or more through openings 15' are advantageously produced so that the third portion 1111 of the lower surface 111 extends at least opposite the first portion 1101 and the second portion 1102 of the upper surface 110.

[0067] For applications in which the external component 10 is visible in all directions, for example if it is integrated into a flyback or into a hollow watch, it is advantageous for the upper surface 110 to be substantially flat. Figure 5 This embodiment, illustrated in

[0068] After these steps, a possible final step of depositing an anti-reflective coating on one or both of the upper surface 110 and the lower surface 111 of the substrate 11 can be implemented.

[0069] More generally, it should be noted that the implementation and the embodiments considered above are described by way of non-limiting example and that other variants are possible.

[0070] In particular, the manufacturing method can comprise a step of depositing a third layer on the sub-layer 13 and in the recesses, in a similar manner to the step of depositing the sub-layer 13.

[0071] Generally, it can be envisaged that the method comprises a plurality of partial removal steps, each followed by a step of depositing an additional layer, depending on the desired decoration.

[0072] It should be noted that the lower surface 111 can be intended to be oriented towards the internal environment, while the upper surface 110 can be intended to be oriented towards the external environment, i.e. towards the user.

[0073] Preferably, but not limitingly, the external component 10 according to the application forms a watch face, a watch glass, a watch bezel or a flange of a watch.

[0074] In another advantageous variant, the external component 10 forms a decorative element of a mobile phone case. The decorative element can extend over all or part of the visible surface of the mobile phone case.

Claims

1. An exterior part (10) of a watch, fashion item or piece of jewelry, the exterior part (10) comprising a substrate (11) made of a transparent material, said substrate (11) comprising an upper surface (110) and a polished lower surface (111) opposite each other, the exterior part (10) being characterized in that it comprises a base layer (12) deposited on a first portion (1101) of the upper surface (110) and at least one secondary layer (13) deposited on a second portion (1102) of the upper surface (110), the first portion (1101) and the second portion (1102) of the upper surface (110) having different surface conditions; the exterior part (10) comprising a lower base layer (12') deposited on a first portion (1111) of the lower surface (111), the exterior part (10) further comprising a lower secondary layer (13') deposited on a structured second portion (1112) of the lower surface (111), the lower base layer (12') and the lower secondary layer (13') comprising a lower through opening (15') opening onto a third portion (1113) of the lower surface (111) extending at least opposite the first portion (1101) and the second portion (1102) of the upper surface (110).

2. The outer part (10) according to claim 1, characterized in that the first portion (1101) of the upper surface (110) being polished, the second portion (1102) of the upper surface (110) having at least one structured portion (112).

3. The outer part (10) according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the base layer (12) and the secondary layer (13) having different compositions.

4. The outer part (10) according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the base layer (12) and the secondary layer (13) comprising a through opening (15) opening onto a third portion (1103) of the upper surface (110) of the substrate (11).

5. A watch dial, characterized by the watch dial being formed from an exterior part (10) according to any one of claims 1 to 4.

6. A decorative element for a mobile phone case, characterized in that the decorative element being formed from an exterior part (10) according to any one of claims 1 to 4.

7. A method for manufacturing an exterior part (10) of a watch, fashion item or piece of jewelry, the method comprising the following steps: - polishing a lower surface (111) of a substrate (11) made of a transparent material, - depositing a base layer (12) on all or part of an upper surface (110) of the substrate (11), - locally removing the base layer (12), during said local removal, a portion of the base layer (12) remaining on a first portion (1101) of the upper surface (110) of the substrate (11), the local removal being performed so as to form at least one recess (14) opening onto a second portion (1102) of the upper surface (110) of the substrate (11) and so as to structure the second portion (1102) of the upper surface (110) of the substrate (11), - depositing a sub-layer (13) on said base layer (12) and on said second portion (1102) of said upper surface (110) of said substrate (11); The method comprises the following successive steps: - depositing a lower base layer (12') on all or part of said lower surface (111), - locally removing said lower base layer (12') so as to form a lower structured portion (112') on a second portion (1112) of said lower surface (111) of said substrate (11), the remaining lower base layer (12') resting on a first portion (1111) of said lower surface (111), - depositing a lower sub-layer (13') on said lower base layer (12') and on said lower structured portion (112'), 8. The method of claim 7, wherein, The method comprises a preliminary polishing step of said upper surface (110) of said substrate (11).

9. The method according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that, The method comprises an etching step in which a portion of said base layer (12) and a portion of said sub-layer (13) are removed over their entire thickness without affecting said substrate (11) so as to form at least one through opening (15) opening onto a third portion (1103) of said upper surface (110) of said substrate (11).

10. The method according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that, The method comprises a final step of depositing an anti-reflective coating on one or both of said upper surface (110) and said lower surface (111) of said substrate (11). The method comprises a preliminary polishing step of said upper surface (110) of said substrate (11). The method comprises an etching step in which a portion of said base layer (12) and a portion of said sub-layer (13) are removed over their entire thickness without affecting said substrate (11) so as to form at least one through opening (15) opening onto a third portion (1103) of said upper surface (110) of said substrate (11). The method comprises a final step of depositing an anti-reflective coating on one or both of said upper surface (110) and said lower surface (111) of said substrate (11).

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