Make-up cosmetic composition
A water-in-oil emulsion makeup composition with specific components enhances color fidelity and stability by using a vinyl polymer with a carbosiloxane dendrimer, silicone acrylate, volatile oils, and a hydrophobically treated colorant, addressing the challenge of maintaining consistent makeup appearance without transfer.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2023580876
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2021-07-02
- Filing Date
- 2022-06-30
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-25
AI Technical Summary
Existing makeup compositions for the skin, particularly foundations, struggle to maintain improved color characteristics (color fidelity and stability) without impairing retention (non-transferability).
A makeup cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion containing a vinyl polymer with a carbosiloxane dendrimer unit, a silicone acrylate polymer, volatile oils, C8-22 alkyldimethicone, and a colorant surface-treated with a hydrophobizing agent, which enhances color placement and stability over time.
The composition achieves high color fidelity during application and maintains stable color over a day, ensuring minimal color change while providing non-transferable makeup results.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present disclosure relates to a makeup cosmetic composition for the skin, and more particularly, to a fluid foundation that can impart improved color characteristics (color fidelity and stability) to the skin without impairing the retention (non-transferability).
Background Art
[0002] Makeup compositions for the skin, specifically foundations, have been used for many years, particularly to reduce the visual and / or tactile irregularities of the skin and improve the aesthetic appearance of the skin. Today, consumers are looking for lighter, more comfortable galenics (carrier-based) that have a natural makeup effect and do not compromise the makeup result (while being covering yet natural) and retention (preferably retained for 24 hours). From the prior art, it is known to use water-in-oil emulsions containing silicone oil and hydrophobic treated pigments for good adhesion to the skin, and film-forming polymers to improve the retention of the deposits. However, there remains a need to develop novel compositions having improved color characteristics (color fidelity and stability) without impairing the retention (non-transferability).
[0003] The applicant has appropriately demonstrated that in a water-in-oil emulsion containing two different silicone acrylate polymers, a volatile oil, and a pigment treated with a hydrophobizing agent, C 8-22 By using alkyldimethicone, particularly cetyl dimethicone, the above requirements can be appropriately met.
Summary of the Invention
Means for Solving the Problems
[0004] A first object of the present disclosure is a makeup cosmetic composition for use on keratinous substances, particularly the skin, which is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion and contains, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least the following components: a) A vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer, b) A silicone acrylate polymer different from compound a), c) One or more volatile oils, d) C 8-22 Alkyl dimethicone, and e) A colorant surface-treated with a hydrophobizing agent To provide a makeup cosmetic composition containing the same.
[0005] The "vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer" means that the vinyl polymer has a molecular side chain containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure.
[0006] The present disclosure also relates to a makeup method for keratinous substances, particularly for the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, which comprises applying at least one of the cosmetic compositions defined by the present disclosure onto the keratinous substances.
Mode for Carrying Out the Invention
[0007] The present disclosure particularly relates to a makeup cosmetic composition for keratinous substances, particularly for the skin, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and contains at least the following components in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) A vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer, b) A silicone acrylate polymer different from compound a), c) One or more volatile oils, d) C 8-22 Alkyl dimethicone, and e) A colorant surface-treated with a hydrophobizing agent Relates to a makeup cosmetic composition containing the same.
[0008] C 8-22The presence of alkyldimethicone, particularly cetyl dimethicone, can improve color placement during application and color stability over time.
[0009] In the present disclosure, the term "color placement" during application means the makeup result (color) obtained after application. The final result is generally obtained between 5 and 30 minutes. A color after application that is as faithful as possible to the color at the pump outlet (the color in the bulk) is required. Reference is made to the "color fidelity" during application.
[0010] In the present disclosure, the term "color change" over time means the change in color over the course of a day (6 - 8 hours after application). More specifically, once applied (see above), depending on the stability of the film (texture) and the interaction with the skin (secretion of sebum, etc.), the color may change (even if there is a slight difference) over the course of a day. The color after 6 - 8 hours is required to be as faithful as possible to the color after application, in other words, to have little color change over time. This is also referred to as "color fidelity" or "color stability over time".
[0011] Oil phase The composition of the present disclosure includes at least one oil phase.
[0012] In the present disclosure, the term "oil phase" shall mean a single oil or a mixture of a plurality of oils that are mutually miscible.
[0013] In the present disclosure, the term "oil" shall mean a lipid that is insoluble in water and is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.
[0014] The oil phase in the present disclosure may include silicone - based hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, and the above - mentioned silicone - based hydrocarbon oils may or may not be fluorinated. The composition of the present disclosure preferably may include at least silicone oil and optionally may further include hydrocarbon oil.
[0015] In the present disclosure, the term "hydrocarbon oil" shall mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.
[0016] In the present disclosure, the term "silicone oil" shall mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom, particularly an Si - O group.
[0017] In the present disclosure, the term "fluorinated oil" shall mean an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
[0018] These oils may be volatile or non - volatile, and may be vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils.
[0019] In the present disclosure, the term "volatile oil" means an oil that has lost 20% or more of its mass after 15 minutes, 40% or more of its mass after 30 minutes, and 70% or more of its mass after 60 minutes when the following test method is carried out: Using a micropipette and a precision balance, weigh 20 mg of the oil to be measured on a 5 cm × 5 cm PMMA plate. Spread this material over the entire plate with a finger. Place the plate in a constant - temperature and ventilated chamber at 25°C and 50% humidity. The test is carried out 3 times for each material. The mass loss during drying is measured after 15 minutes, 30 minutes, and 60 minutes. The mass loss is represented by the following calculation formula:
[0020]
Equation
[0021] In the above formula, m tx corresponds to the mass remaining at the time of measurement (after 15 minutes, 30 minutes, or 60 minutes), and m t0 corresponds to the mass initially applied.
[0022] In the present disclosure, the term "non - volatile oil" shall mean an oil that does not meet the definition of the above - mentioned "volatile oil".
[0023] The oil may be present in the composition of the present disclosure in an amount in the range of 10 to 20% by mass based on the total weight of the composition. As used herein, the oil content indicated in relation to the non-volatile oil fraction or the volatile oil fraction may include, for example, the oil content present in the raw materials, as well as solvents for dispersing compounds such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, and pigments.
[0024] Volatile oil The composition of the present disclosure may contain one or more volatile oils in a total content in the range of preferably 5 to 60% by mass, more preferably 10 to 35% by mass, preferably 15 to 30% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0025] According to certain embodiments, the one or more volatile oils may be present in the composition in a total content of 5 to 60% by mass, preferably at least 10% by mass, more preferably at least 20% by mass, still more preferably at least 25% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0026] A large amount of the volatile phase, particularly the volatile oil, can provide a light composition and can be easily applied to the skin; the volatile oil is involved in the placement of the film on the skin during application and, by evaporating, a film adheres to the skin, leaving a bare-skin feeling and having no physical effect on the skin and also having no masking effect on the skin.
[0027] Examples of the volatile hydrocarbon oil include, in particular, C 8-16 branched alkanes, C 8-16 branched esters, and mixtures thereof.
[0028] Examples of the volatile silicone oil include, in particular, linear volatile silicone oils.
[0029] The volatile oil used in the composition of the present disclosure may preferably be a volatile silicone or a saturated branched-chain hydrocarbon.
[0030] The volatile oil can be selected, in particular, from silicone oils such as dimethicone (polydimethylsiloxane) having a viscosity in the range of 0.5 to 6 cSt, alkyltrisiloxane, and cyclomethicone. Examples thereof include hexamethyldisiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-(trimethylsilyloxy)trisiloxane (also known as methyltrimethicone), decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0031] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure may include at least one volatile silicone oil selected from dimethicone, methyltrimethicone, and mixtures thereof having a viscosity in the range of 0.5 to 6 cSt.
[0032] The volatile hydrocarbon oil can be isodecyl neopentanoate; hydrocarbons such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, n-dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ); or mixtures thereof.
[0033] According to an embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure may include at least isododecane.
[0034] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure may include at least two silicone oil volatiles (5-cst dimethicone and methyltrimethicone) and a volatile hydrocarbon oil (isodecane).
[0035] According to an embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure may include less than 10%, particularly less than 5%, of non-volatile oil, or may not include non-volatile oil at all.
[0036] A vinyl polymer having a carbosiloxane dendrimer unit (a silicone acrylate polymer having a dendrimer unit)
[0037] The compositions of the present disclosure may include silicone acrylate polymers having dendrimer units, particularly vinyl polymers having carbosiloxane dendrimer units.
[0038] The vinyl polymer particularly has a backbone and at least one side chain, and this side chain may include units derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure as described in the applications of Dow Chemical Company, International Application No. 2003 / 045337 and European Patent Publication No. 0963751.
[0039] In the present disclosure, the term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" represents a molecular structure having a high molecular weight branched group, and the above structure has a high regularity in the radial direction starting from the bond with the backbone. Such a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure is described in the form of a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in Japanese Patent Application filed as Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 09-171154 and published as Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 11-001530.
[0040] The vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer has a molecular side chain containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure and the following components: (A) 0 to 99.9 parts by mass of a vinyl monomer; and (B) 100 to 0.1 parts by mass of a carbosiloxane dendrimer represented by the general formula (I) and having a radically polymerizable organic group:
[0041] [Chemical formula] [In the formula, Y represents a radically polymerizable organic group, R 1 represents an aryl group having 5 to 10 carbon atoms or an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, X i represents a silylalkyl group represented by the formula (II) when i = 1:
[0042] [Chemical formula] [wherein R 1 is synonymous with R in formula (I), 1 and R 2 represents an alkylene group having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, R 3 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms X i+1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group having 5 to 10 carbon atoms, or a silylalkyl group defined as above where i = i + 1 in formula (II°), i is an integer from 1 to 10 and represents the number of occurrences of the silylalkyl group, a i is an integer from 0 to 3.] Here, the radically polymerizable organic group contained in component (A) is as follows: an organic group having a methacryl group or an acrylic group, and having the following formula:
[0043] [Chemical formula] or [Chemical formula] [wherein, R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms R 5 represents an alkylene group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.] a group represented by; and, the following formula:
[0044] [Chemical formula] [wherein, R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R 7 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R 8 represents an alkylene group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, b is an integer from 0 to 4 c has a value of 0 or 1, and when c has a value of 0, -(R 8 ) c - represents a single bond.] an organic group containing a styryl group represented by; selected from] may be derived from the polymerization of.
[0045] The vinyl monomer, which is component (A) in the vinyl polymer, is a vinyl-based monomer containing a radically polymerizable vinyl group.
[0046] Such monomers are not particularly limited. Examples of such vinyl type monomers include methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, or similar lower alkyl methacrylates; glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl methacrylate, or similar higher methacrylates; vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate or similar lower fatty acid vinyl esters; vinyl caproate, vinyl 2-ethylhexanoate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate or similar higher fatty acid esters; styrene, vinyl toluene, benzyl methacrylate, phenoxyethyl methacrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone, or similar aromatic vinyl monomers; methacrylamide, N-methylol methacrylamide, N-methoxymethyl methacrylamide, isobutoxy methoxymethacrylamide, N,N-dimethyl methacrylamide, or similar vinyl monomers containing an amide group; hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl alcohol methacrylate, or similar vinyl monomers containing a hydroxyl group; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, or similar vinyl monomers containing a carboxy group; tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate, butoxyethyl methacrylate, ethoxydiethylene glycol methacrylate, polyethylene glycol methacrylate, polypropylene glycol monomethacrylate, hydroxybutyl vinyl ether, cetyl vinyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl vinyl ether, or similar vinyl monomers having an ether bond; methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, polydimethylsiloxane having a methacryl group at one of its molecular terminals, polydimethylsiloxane having a styryl group at one of its molecular terminals, or similar silicone compounds having an unsaturated group; vinyl chloride·butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; maleic anhydride;Succinic anhydride; glycidyl methacrylate; organic amine salts, ammonium salts, and alkali metal salts of methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, or fumaric acid; radically polymerizable unsaturated monomers having a sulfonic acid group such as a styrenesulfonic acid group; quaternary ammonium salts derived from methacrylic acid such as 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and methacrylic acid esters of alcohols having a tertiary amino group such as diethylamine methacrylate, etc. are exemplified.;
[0047] Polyfunctional vinyl monomers can also be used.; Examples of such compounds include trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, pentaerythritol trimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraethylene glycol methacrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,4-butanediol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate, neopentyl glycol dimethacrylate, trimethylolpropane trioxyethyl methacrylate, tris(2-hydroxyethyl) isocyanurate dimethacrylate, tris(2-hydroxyethyl) isocyanurate trimethacrylate, polydimethylsiloxane capped with styryl groups having divinylbenzene at both ends, or similar silicone compounds having an unsaturated group, etc.;
[0048] From the viewpoint of facilitating the preparation of a mixture of raw materials for cosmetics, the number average molecular weight of the vinyl polymer containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer can be selected in the range of 3,000 g / mol to 2,000,000 g / mol, preferably 5,000 g / mol to 800,000 g / mol. The vinyl polymer containing such a carbosiloxane dendrimer can be in the form of a liquid, gum, paste, solid, powder, or other form.;
[0049] Preferred forms are solutions, dispersions, or powders formed by diluting with a solvent such as silicone oil or organic oil.;
[0050] The vinyl polymer contained in the dispersion or solution may have a concentration in the range of 0.1 to 95% by mass, preferably 5 to 70% by mass. However, from the viewpoint of facilitating handling and preparation of the mixture, it may preferably be in the range of 10 to 60% by mass.
[0051] According to a preferred embodiment, the vinyl polymer suitable for the present disclosure may be one of the polymers described in the examples of European Patent No. 0963751.
[0052] According to a preferred embodiment, the vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer is obtained by polymerizing the following components: (A) 0.1 to 99 parts by mass of one or more acrylate monomers or methacrylate monomers, (B) 100 to 0.1 parts by mass of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer.
[0053] According to an embodiment of the present disclosure, the vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer has the following formula:
[0054]
Chemical formula
[0055]
Chemical formula
[0056] According to a preferred embodiment, the vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from the carbosiloxane dendrimer used in the present disclosure contains at least one butyl acrylate monomer.
[0057] According to a preferred embodiment, the grafted vinyl polymer in the present disclosure can be transported in an oil selected particularly from silicone oil and hydrocarbon oil, and mixtures thereof, or a mixture of one or more, preferably volatile oils.
[0058] According to another embodiment, the silicone oil suitable for the present disclosure can be dimethicone.
[0059] According to another embodiment, the hydrocarbon oil suitable for the present disclosure can be isododecane.
[0060] The grafted vinyl polymer in which at least one of the units derived from the carbosiloxane dendrimer can be used in the composition of the present disclosure is preferably an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxysilane methacrylate copolymer having an INCI name: acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxysilane methacrylate copolymer, particularly, those sold in isododecane under the name DOWSIL (trademark) FA 4004 ID silicone acrylate from Dow Chemical (40% polymer in 60% isododecane), or those sold in dimethicone under the name DOWSIL (trademark) FA 4003 ID silicone acrylate from Dow Chemical (40% polymer in 60% 2-cst dimethicone).
[0061] According to an embodiment of the present disclosure, the composition contains a vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer in a content range of 0.5 to 10% by mass, preferably 1 to 5% by mass, as an active ingredient (dry matter) based on the weight of the composition.
[0062] Silicone acrylate polymer (excluding dendrimer units)
[0063] The composition of the present disclosure may also contain a second silicone acrylate polymer b) that is different from compound a) in that it does not contain dendrimer units.
[0064] Such a silicone acrylate polymer may be a copolymer containing a methacryl group and a polydimethylsiloxane group.
[0065] According to the present disclosure, the term "copolymer containing a methacryl group and a polydimethylsiloxane group" means a copolymer obtained using (a) one or more (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylic acid ester monomers, and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.
[0066] According to certain embodiments, monomer (a) is selected from, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, its (acrylate, methacrylate) esters, and mixtures of these monomers. According to a preferred embodiment, the monomer in the form of an ester is linear or branched, preferably C 1-24 , or, C 1-22 alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, the alkyl radicals of which may preferably be selected from methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl and ethyl-2-hexyl radicals, and mixtures thereof.
[0067] According to certain embodiments of the present disclosure, the silicone acrylate copolymer may contain at least one group selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate or methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0068] The term "polydimethylsiloxane" (PDMS) refers to an organosilicon polymer or oligomer having a linear structure, having any molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of silanes having functional groups, and may be essentially composed of the repetition of main units (siloxane bonds Si-O-Si4) in which silicon atoms are linked to each other by oxygen atoms. The organosilicon polymer or oligomer may contain trimethyl radicals directly linked via carbon atoms on the silicon atoms.
[0069] The PDMS chains that can be used to obtain the copolymers used in the present disclosure may preferably contain at least one polymerizable radical group at at least one end of the chain. In other words, the PDMS can, for example, have polymerizable radical groups at both ends of the chain, or have a polymerizable radical group at one end of the chain and a trimethylsilyl end group at the other end of the chain. The polymerizable radical group can in particular be an acrylic group or a methacrylic group. The copolymers used in the compositions of the present disclosure are generally obtained by radical polymerization of PDMS containing (A) at least one polymerizable radical group (e.g., at one or both ends of the chain) and (B) at least one carboxylic acid monomer. Such methods are described in the usual methods in polymerization and graft polymerization, for example, for example, U.S. Patent Publication No. 5,061,481 and U.S. Patent Publication No. 5,219,560. The resulting copolymers generally have a molecular weight in the range of about 3,000 to 200,000, preferably about 5,000 to 100,000. The copolymers used in the compositions of the present disclosure may be in their as-received state, or may be present in a dispersed form in a solvent such as a lower alcohol having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as isopropyl alcohol, or an oil such as a volatile silicone oil (e.g., methyltrimethicone) or a hydrocarbon oil (e.g., isododecane).
[0070] Examples of copolymers include copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate grafted with polydimethylsiloxane; copolymers of stearyl methacrylate grafted with polydimethylsiloxane; copolymers of stearyl methacrylate grafted with polydimethylsiloxane; copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate grafted with polydimethylsiloxane, such as, for example, the copolymer sold under the name KP-561 (registered trademark) by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. (INCI name: acrylate / stearyl acrylate / dimethicone methacrylate copolymer), or KP-541 (registered trademark) (INCI name: acrylate / dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol).
[0071] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a copolymer of polydimethylsiloxane and one or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and esters thereof is used. For example, a product sold by Shin-Etsu under the name KP-550 (registered trademark) with the INCI name "ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER AND ISODODECANE"; or a product sold under the names KP-549 (registered trademark) and KP-579 (registered trademark) with the INCI name "ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER AND METHYL TRIMETHICONE".
[0072] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure may contain a methyltrimethicone solution of at least one acrylate / dimethicone copolymer, such as KP-549 (registered trademark) from Shin-Etsu.
[0073] According to an embodiment of the present disclosure, the composition may contain the silicone acrylate polymer (excluding dendrimer units) in a content range of 0.5 to 7% by mass, particularly 0.8% to 5%, 1% to 3% by mass, as an active ingredient (dry matter) based on the total weight of the composition.
[0074] According to an embodiment of the present disclosure, the weight ratio of the dry matter between the silicone acrylate polymer having a dendrimer unit and the polymer acrylate having no dendrimer unit is 1 or more. The weight ratio of the dry matter is preferably 1 to 3, particularly 1.5 to 2.
[0075] C 8-22ア Alkyldimethylsilicone The composition of the present disclosure contains at least one C 8-22 、especially C 12-20 、or further C 16-18 Alkyldimethylsilicone may be further included.
[0076] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure contains cetyl dimethicone (C16 may include
[0077] According to certain embodiments, commercially available ABIL® Wax 9840 (INCI name: Cetyl Dimethicone) from Evonik may be used.
[0078] The content of alkyldimethicone, preferably cetyl dimethicone, in the composition of the present disclosure is generally from 0.05% to 5% by mass, particularly from 0.05% to 3% by mass, especially from 0.1% to 2%, preferably from 0.5% to 1% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0079] aqueous phase The aqueous phase of the composition according to the present disclosure may generally be from 1% to 50% by mass, preferably from 1% to 40% by mass, particularly from 5% to 35% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0080] The aqueous phase may include water and optionally used water-soluble solvents.
[0081] In the present disclosure, "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and may show miscibility with water (water miscibility greater than 50% by mass in water at 25 °C, atmospheric pressure). Such water-soluble solvents include, in particular, the following: C monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, and mixtures thereof, preferably ethanol; 1-5 less than C glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; 2-8 glycols; C polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, and 2-32 mixtures thereof may be included.
[0082] That is, the cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure contains lower C 1-5 monoalcohol, C 2-8 glycol, C 2-C32 At least one water-soluble solvent selected from polyols and mixtures thereof may be included in a total amount preferably in the range of 8 to 25% by mass, particularly 10 to 20% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0083] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure may contain at least ethanol, preferably in an amount in the range of 5 to 20% by mass based on the total weight of the composition, and may impart a fresh effect.
[0084] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure may contain at least a glycol compound as a film-forming agent in a total content of 1 to 10% by mass, particularly 2 to 5% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition. According to an embodiment, the glycol compound may be butylene glycol.
[0085] Colorant The composition compatible with the present disclosure includes one or more colorants selected from water-soluble or insoluble, fat-soluble or insoluble, organic or inorganic colorants having an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.
[0086] In the present disclosure, the term "colorant" shall mean a compound that can impart an optical coloring effect when formulated in a sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium.
[0087] According to an embodiment, the colorant or material may be particularly selected from among minerals and / or organic pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), composite pigments, colorants, nacre or nacre pigments, and mixtures thereof.
[0088] The colorant is preferably a pigment.
[0089] "Pigment" is understood to be white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles that are insoluble in the organic liquid phase in which they are dispersed and are intended to color the composition and / or color and / or opacify the deposit produced using the composition and / or the composition.
[0090] Examples of mineral pigments include optionally surface-treated titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase); iron oxides in black, yellow, red, and brown; manganese violet; ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, hydrated chromium oxide, and Prussian blue.
[0091] Examples of organic pigments include, for example, Pigment D&C Red No. 19; D&C Red No. 9; D&C Red No. 22; D&C Red No. 21; D&C Red No. 28; D&C Yellow No. 6; D&C Orange No. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D&C Red No. 27; D&C Red No. 13; D&C Red No. 7; D&C Red No. 6; D&C Yellow No. 5; D&C Red No. 36; D&C Red no. 33; D&C Orange No. 10; D&C Yellow No. 30; D&C Red No. 3; D&C Blue 1; lacquers based on carbon black and cochineal carmine.
[0092] Examples of water-soluble colorants include Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Blue 1, Green 5, Green 3, Green 6, Orange 4, Red 4, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 33, Red 40, cochineal carmine (Cl15850, Cl75470).
[0093] Examples of fat-soluble colorants include, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, beta-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto, etc.
[0094] The nacre or nacre pigment can be selected particularly from white nacre pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, bismuth oxychloride; and colored nacre pigments such as mica titanium having iron oxide, mica titanium having ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica titanium having an organic pigment of the above type, and pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The scope of nacre includes those with product symbols Reflecks (registered trademark), Ronastar (registered trademark), Timiron (registered trademark), and Syncristal (registered trademark).
[0095] In the present disclosure, the colorant, particularly the pigment, can be surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treating agent to improve dispersion in the oil phase.
[0096] The treatment of the colorant generally means a surface treatment using a surface treating agent to adsorb or graft onto some or all of the above pigments according to techniques known to those skilled in the art.
[0097] The hydrophobic treating agent can be selected particularly from the group consisting of silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluorosilicone surfactants; metal soaps, N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and their derivatives; isopropyltriisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, synthetic polar waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.
[0098] In certain embodiments, the hydrophobic treating agent can be selected particularly from the group consisting of silicone surfactants and N-acyl amino acids or their salts. According to another certain embodiment, the pigment is wholly or partially surface-treated with a silicone compound. The silicone surfactant can be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.
[0099] Examples of commercial treatments of pigments using silicone compounds include the following: · Treatment with triethoxycaprylylsilane, such as the AS surface treatment provided by LCW; · Treatment with octyltriethylsilane, such as the OTS surface treatment provided by Daito; · Treatment with methicone, such as the SI surface treatment provided by LCW; · Treatment with dimethicone, such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment provided by LCW or the SA surface treatment provided by Miyoshi Kasei; · Treatment with dimethicone / trimethylsiloxysilicate, such as the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment provided by LCW; and · Treatment with acrylate / dimethicone copolymer, such as the ASC surface treatment provided by Daito Pharmaceutical
[0100] Preferably, as the surface treatment with a silicone compound, those using a silane derivative such as triethoxycaprylylsilane (AS) treatment or octyltriethylsilane (OTS) treatment, and those using an organopolysiloxane such as dimethicone (SI) treatment can be mentioned.
[0101] According to a specific preferred embodiment, the colorant, particularly the pigment, can be surface-treated with an N-acyl amino acid or a salt thereof that may contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as a 2-ethylhexanoyl group, a caproyl group, a lauroyl group, a myristoyl group, a palmitoyl group, a stearoyl group, or a cocoyl group. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum salts, magnesium salts, calcium salts, zirconium salts, zinc salts, sodium salts, or potassium salts.
[0102] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the derivative of N-acyl amino acid can be, in particular, one of derivatives of glutamic acid and / or its salts, and more specifically, it can be stearoyl glutamic acid, for example aluminum stearoyl glutamic acid, such as NAI treatment using INCI name: disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide provided by Miyoshi Kasei; or a treatment using INCI name: sodium myristoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide provided by Miyoshi Kasei.
[0103] According to an embodiment, the pigment used is a mineral pigment, particularly particles of iron oxide and / or titanium oxide, and can be surface-treated with a treating agent selected from the group consisting of disodium stearoyl glutamate, dimethicone, triethoxycaprylylsilane, octyltriethylsilane, and mixtures thereof.
[0104] In particular, one or more colorants can be present in the composition in a content in the range of 2% to 30% by mass, preferably 4% to 15% by mass, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0105] According to an embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure contains a pigment, particularly a mineral pigment, in a content in the range of 2 to 30%, particularly 4 to 25%, and more particularly 10 to 20% by mass based on the total weight of the composition.
[0106] Filler The composition of the present disclosure may further contain at least one filler.
[0107] In the present disclosure, "filler" can mean particles that are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition, and are colorless or white, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic. The filler in the present disclosure may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular, may be surface-treated with silicone, amino acid, fluoride derivative, or other substances that can improve the dispersibility and compatibility of the filler in the composition.
[0108] The filler can be selected from, in particular, silica, mica, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and bicarbonate, zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, glass and ceramic beads, which are natural or synthetic substances; synthetic polymer powders such as polyethylene, polyester, polyamide (e.g., nylon); polyacrylic acid or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone resin powders; natural organic material powders such as starch from corn, wheat, or rice, which may or may not be cross-linked, and mixtures thereof.
[0109] The composition according to the present disclosure may advantageously contain at least one mineral-based filler, particularly silica.
[0110] The composition of the present disclosure may contain 0.1% to 15% by mass, preferably 2% to 10% by mass, of the filler(s) based on the total weight of the composition.
[0111] According to certain embodiments, the composition of the present disclosure may contain the following based on the total weight of the composition: a) As a dry matter, preferably an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer with a content of 0.5% to 10% by mass, preferably 1% to 5% by mass; b) As a dry matter, preferably an acrylate / dimethicone copolymer with a content of 0.5% to 7%, particularly 0.8% to 5%, preferably 1% to 3% by mass; c) A total content of volatile oil of preferably at least 10%, more preferably at least 20% by mass; d) Cetyl dimethicone with a content of preferably 0.05% to 5% by mass, particularly 0.05% to 3% by mass, particularly 0.1% to 2% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 1% by mass; and e) A hydrophobizing agent with a content of preferably 2% to 30%, particularly 4% to 25%, particularly 10% to 20% by mass, particularly a pigment surface-treated with N-acyl amino acid or its salt.
[0112] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, it may contain the following based on the total weight of the composition: a) As a dry matter, an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer with a content of 1 to 5% by mass, b) As a dry matter, an acrylate / dimethicone copolymer with a content of 1 to 3% by mass, c) A volatile oil with a content of at least 10% or at least 20% by mass, d) Cetyl dimethicone with a content of 0.5% to 1% by mass, and e) A hydrophobic agent, particularly a pigment surface-treated with N-acyl amino acid or its salt, with a content of 10 to 20% by mass
[0113] Galenics (carrier-based) The composition of the present disclosure is preferably intended to be applied to the skin, particularly the skin of the face and / or body, particularly the skin of the face and / or neck, and exists in the form of a water-in-oil or water-in-silicone emulsion. Preferably, it is a water-in-silicone emulsion.
[0114] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure can be in the form of a foundation, a color collector, a concealer, a blush or a color base, preferably a foundation.
[0115] The composition of the present disclosure can include any additives commonly used in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, surfactants, gelling agents, preservatives, fragrances, cosmetic active ingredients, such as skin softeners, moisturizers, vitamins, anti-aging agents, whitening agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0116] Cosmetic method The present disclosure also relates to a cosmetic method for the makeup of keratinous substances, particularly the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, which includes applying at least one of the cosmetic compositions defined above in the present disclosure onto the keratinous substances.
[0117] The present disclosure will be described in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise specified, % is expressed as mass % (of the raw materials) based on the total weight of the composition.
Example
[0118] Example: C on the Influence on Color Fidelity and Stability over Time 8-22 Selection of Alkyl Dimethicone
[0119] Preparation of Composition Prepare a water droplet type emulsion in silicone with the following composition:
[0120] [Table 1]
[0121] The above composition is obtained by the following preparation method: Mix Component A1, then add Component A2 which has been pre - pulverized, and then add Component A3; Mix Components B1, B2 and B3; Mix Phase B into Phase A while stirring until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained.
[0122] Evaluation of the Effect of Dispersants on Color Fidelity and Stability The following two dispersants were tested: Cetyl dimethicone (ABIL® Wax9840) and Lauryl PEG - 10 tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethicone (Dowsil ES5300), each tested at 0.5% by mass based on the total weight of the composition, and the evaluation of the two formulations was compared with a control formulation (without adding a dispersant, replaced with 0.5% of methyltrimicone). Composition 1 (invention example): Use 0.5% cetyl dimethicone (ABIL® Wax9840) Composition 2 (reference example): Without cetyl dimethicone Composition 3 (comparative example): Use 0.5% lauryl PEG - 10 tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethicone
[0123] For the above three compositions, they were evaluated and compared in pairs of two on half of the face according to the following protocol by a panel of color experts. The application of the products was done on half of the face by a cosmetics expert using a brush, and the following observations were made: · Observation of the color of the bulk under the slide (corresponding to the color at the pump outlet) · Observation of the color after application to the facial skin (after 5 to 30 minutes) · Observation of the color change over time (after 2 hours and 6 hours)
[0124] The above tests were carried out on the absolute values of skin based on a moisturizing cream and without powder. The evaluation was carried out using VISIA-CR from the front and the left side face of the face in the visualization mode (with eyes closed). Photos were taken at the time of application (5 minutes later, immediately after application), 15 minutes later, 2 hours later, and 6 hours later.
[0125] The panel of experts evaluated two criteria: · Compared the "color placement" at the time of application with the makeup result (color) after application. Clear results are generally obtained between 5 and 30 minutes (here, evaluated at 5 minutes and 15 minutes after application). The color after application is required to be as faithful as possible to the color at the pump outlet (color of the bulk). Refer to the "color fidelity" at the time of application. Compared the "color change" over time corresponding to the color change in one day (here, evaluated at 2 hours and 6 hours later). The color after 6 hours is required to be as faithful as possible to the color after application, in other words, the color change over time is small. Also referred to as "color fidelity" or "color stability over time".
[0126] The results are shown in the following table:
[0127]
Table 2
[0128] These results show that the cetyl dimethicone in Composition 1 according to the present disclosure (C 8-22By (alkyl dimethicone), it has been shown that better performance can be obtained in terms of color fidelity after application and color stability over time compared to Composition 2 (reference) without a dispersant (the color fades after application and over time) or Composition 3 (comparative example) containing another dispersant (the color becomes more yellow after application and over time).
[0129] That is, the use of cetyl dimethicone in the composition according to the present disclosure enables better dispersion of pigments surface-treated with a hydrophobic treatment agent, and by combining two silicone acrylate polymers, high color fidelity and stable makeup results (color) over time can be achieved while maintaining non-transferability of the composition.
[0130] [1] In a physiologically acceptable medium, at least the following components: a) A vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer, b) A silicone acrylate polymer different from compound a), c) One or more volatile oils, d) C 8-22 Alkyldimethicone, and, e) A colorant surface-treated with a hydrophobizing agent are included, which is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, a makeup cosmetic composition for keratinous substances, particularly for use on the skin. [2] The vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from the carbosiloxane dendrimer has a molecular side chain containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, the following components: (A) 0 to 99.9 parts by mass of a vinyl monomer; and (B) 100 to 0.1 parts by mass of a carbosiloxane dendrimer having a radically polymerizable organic group represented by the general formula (I): JPEG2023275500000018.jpg2543 [wherein, Y represents an organic group that can be polarized by a radical, R 1 represents an aryl group having 5 to 10 carbon atoms or an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and X i represents a silylalkyl group represented by the formula (II) when i = 1: JPEG2023275500000019.jpg2658 [wherein, R 1 has the same meaning as R1 in formula (I), R 2 represents an alkylene group having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, R 3 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, X i+1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group having 5 to 10 carbon atoms, or a silylalkyl group defined as above with i = i + 1 in formula (II), i is an integer from 1 to 10, representing the number of occurrences of the silylalkyl group, and, a i is an integer from 0 to 3] Here, the radically polymerizable organic group contained in component (A) is as follows: An organic group having a methacryl group or an acrylic group, represented by the following formula: JPEG2023275500000020.jpg2560 or, JPEG2023275500000021.jpg2461 [wherein, R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R 5 represents an alkylene group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.] a group represented by; and, the following formula: JPEG2023275500000022.jpg3067 [wherein, R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R 7 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms R 8 represents an alkylene group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, b is an integer from 0 to 4, c has a value of 0 or 1, and when c is 0, -(R 8 ) c - represents a single bond.] an organic group containing a styryl group represented by; selected from.] The composition according to [1], derived from the polymerization of [3] The vinyl polymer has the following formula: JPEG2023275500000023.jpg28110 or JPEG2023275500000024.jpg29111 The composition according to [2], comprising a unit derived from a tri[(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethylsiloxy]silylpropylcarboxysiloxane dendrimer corresponding to any of them. [4] The composition according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein the vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from a carboxysiloxane dendrimer has an INCI name: acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer. [5] The composition according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein the silicone acrylate polymer b) different from the compound a) contains a methacryl group and a polydimethylsiloxane group, and is preferably selected from acrylate / dimethicone copolymers. [6] The above C 8-22 The composition according to any one of [1] to [5], wherein the alkyldimethicone is cetyl dimethicone. [7] The composition according to any one of [1] to [6], wherein the colorant is a pigment surface-treated with a hydrophobizing agent selected from the group consisting of silicone surfactants, N-acyl amino acids, and salts thereof. [8] The composition according to any one of [1] to [7], wherein the following components are based on the total weight of the composition: a) Acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer in a content of preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass, preferably 1 to 5% by mass as dry matter. b) Acrylate / dimethicone copolymer in a content of preferably 0.5 to 7%, particularly 0.8 to 5%, preferably 1 to 3% by mass as dry matter. c) Volatile oil in a total content of preferably at least 10%, more preferably at least 20% by mass. d) Cetyl dimethicone in a content of preferably 0.05% to 5% by mass, particularly 0.05% to 3% by mass, particularly 0.1% to 2%, preferably 0.5% to 1% by mass, and e) Hydrophobizing agent, particularly a pigment surface-treated with N-acyl amino acid or its salt, in a content of preferably 2 to 30%, particularly 4 to 25%, particularly 10 to 20% by mass. The composition comprising. [9] The composition according to any one of [1] to [8], further comprising one or more glycols.
[10] A method for keratin substances, particularly for making up the skin, comprising applying the composition according to any one of [1] to [9] to the skin, particularly the face and / or the neck muscles.
Claims
1. In a physiologically acceptable medium, at least the following components: a) A vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer, b) A silicone acrylate polymer different from compound a), c) One or more volatile oils, d) C 8-22 Alkyldimethicone, and, e) A colorant surface-treated with a hydrophobizing agent are included, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, A makeup cosmetic composition for keratinous substances, particularly for use on the skin.
2. The vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from the carbosiloxane dendrimer has a molecular side chain containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, the following components: (A) 0 to 99.9 parts by mass of a vinyl monomer; and (B) 100 to 0.1 parts by mass of a carbosiloxane dendrimer having a radically polymerizable organic group represented by the general formula (I): 【Chemical Formula 1】 [wherein, Y represents an organic group that can be polarized by a radical, R 1 represents an aryl group having 5 to 10 carbon atoms or an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and X i represents a silylalkyl group represented by the formula (II) when i = 1: [Chemical Formula 2] [wherein, R 1 is synonymous with R1 in formula (I), R 2 represents an alkylene group having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, R 3 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, X i+1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group having 5 to 10 carbon atoms, or a silylalkyl group defined as above with i = i + 1 in formula (II), i is an integer from 1 to 10, representing the number of occurrences of the silylalkyl group, and, a i is an integer from 0 to 3]] here, the radically polymerizable organic group contained in component (A) is as follows: An organic group having a methacryl group or an acrylic group, having the following formula: 【Chemical Formula 3】 or, [Chemical Formula 4] [wherein, R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R 5 represents an alkylene group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.] a group represented by; and, the following formula: [Chemical Formula 5] [wherein, R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R 7 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms R 8 represents an alkylene group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, b is an integer from 0 to 4, c has a value of 0 or 1, and when c is 0, -(R 8 ) c - represents a single bond.] an organic group containing a styryl group represented by; selected from. ] The composition according to claim 1, derived from the polymerization of
3. The vinyl polymer, corresponding to any of the following formulas: [Chemical Formula 6] or 【Chemical Formula 7】 The composition according to claim 2, containing a unit derived from a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer has an INCI name: acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.
5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone acrylate polymer b) different from compound a) contains a methacryl group and a polydimethylsiloxane group, preferably selected from acrylate / dimethicone copolymers.
6. Said C 8-22 The composition according to claim 1, wherein the alkyldimethylsilicone is cetyl dimethicone.
7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the colorant is a pigment surface-treated with a hydrophobizing agent selected from the group consisting of silicone surfactants, N-acyl amino acids, and their salts.
8. The composition according to claim 1, comprising the following components based on the total weight of the composition: a) An acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer in a content, as dry matter, preferably of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 5% by weight; b) An acrylate / dimethicone copolymer in a content, as dry matter, preferably of 0.5 to 7%, in particular 0.8 to 5%, preferably 1 to 3% by weight; c) A volatile oil in a total content of preferably at least 10%, more preferably at least 20% by weight; d) Cetyl dimethicone in a content of preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, in particular 0.05% to 3% by weight, in particular 0.1% to 2%, preferably 0.5% to 1% by weight; and e) A hydrophobizing agent in a content of preferably 2 to 30%, in particular 4 to 25%, in particular 10 to 20% by weight, in particular a pigment surface-treated with an N-acyl amino acid or a salt thereof. A composition comprising the above.
9. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more glycols.
10. A method for keratinous substances, in particular for making up the skin, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the skin, in particular to the face and / or the neck muscles.