Compositions containing skin care active ingredient and two kinds of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters

Abstract

To provide a composition that can enhance or improve the penetration of a specific class of skin care active ingredients into the skin.SOLUTION: Provided is a composition containing: (b) at least one kind of first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or more, preferably 12.5 or more, more preferably 13.0 or more; (c) at least one kind of second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, more preferably 9.0 or less; and (d) at least one kind of skin care active ingredient.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one skin care active ingredient and at least two different types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters. [Background technology]

[0002] There is a wide variety of skin care active ingredients used in the field of cosmetic and dermatological compositions.

[0003] It is preferable that skin care active ingredient is absorbed or penetrates into skin as much as possible.However, due to the barrier function of skin, the skin absorption or penetration of such skin care active ingredient is not easy.Therefore, one possible way to enhance the skin penetration of skin care active ingredient can be to use skin penetration enhancer together with skin care active ingredient.

[0004] For example, WO 2018 / 097303 uses a combination of a single polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and niacinamide in a nanoemulsion or microemulsion containing ceramide to enhance the skin penetration of the ceramide. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0005] [Patent Document 1] WO 2018 / 097303 [Patent Document 2] EP-A-0 487 404 [Patent Document 3] EP-A-0 425 066 [Patent Document 4] Japanese Patent Publication No. 05-213 736 [Patent Document 5] EP 0 667 145 [Patent Document 6] EP 1 430 883 [Patent Document 7] WO 02 / 051 828 [Non-patent literature]

[0006] [Non-Patent Document 1] Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press [Non-Patent Document 2] Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics [Non-Patent Document 3] ASTM Standard 445 Annex C [Non-Patent Document 4] Article by Meylan and Howard: Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. [Non-Patent Document 5] Exploring QSAR: hydrophobic, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995) [Non-Patent Document 6] http: / / esc.syrres.com / interkow / kowdemo.htm [Non-Patent Document 7] Satoshi Tomomasa et al., Oil Chemistry, Vol. 37, No. 11 (1988), pp. 48-53 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0007] There remains a need for compositions containing skin care actives that can enhance or improve the penetration of the skin care actives based on new skin penetration enhancers.

[0008] It is an object of the present invention to provide compositions that can enhance or improve the penetration of certain classes of skin care active ingredients into the skin by using novel skin penetration enhancers. [Means for solving the problem]

[0009] The above object of the present invention is to (b) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or greater, preferably 12.5 or greater, and more preferably 13.0 or greater; (c) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, and more preferably 9.0 or less; (d) at least one skin care active, and (e) water This can be achieved by a composition comprising:

[0010] The average HLB of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be within the range of 11.5 to 14.0, preferably 12.0 to 13.5, and more preferably 12.5 to 13.0.

[0011] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may contain 2 to 4 glycerol units, preferably 3 or 4 glycerol units, and more preferably 4 glycerol units.

[0012] (b) The fatty acid portion of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may contain 12 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 11 or fewer carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 or fewer carbon atoms.

[0013] The amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be within the range of 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0014] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may contain 2 to 4 glycerol units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units, and more preferably 2 glycerol units.

[0015] (c) The fatty acid portion of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may contain 14 or more carbon atoms, preferably 16 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 or more carbon atoms.

[0016] The amount of the (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be within the range of 0.01% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0017] The mass ratio of the amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester / (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be 1-5, preferably 1.5-4, and more preferably 2-3.

[0018] (d) The skin care active may have a log P value in the range of -4.5 to 4.5, preferably -4.0 to 4.0, and more preferably -3.5 to 3.5.

[0019] (d) The skin care active may be a skin care cosmetic active, preferably a skin whitening or anti-wrinkle ingredient, and more preferably may be selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, ascorbyl glucoside, phenylethyl resorcinol, hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, salicylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0020] The amount of the (d) skin care active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% to 20% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 15% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0021] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (a) at least one oil.

[0022] The amount of (a) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0023] When the composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one oil, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion.

[0024] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating the skin, comprising the step of applying to the skin a composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0025] After extensive investigation, the inventors have discovered that by using novel skin penetration enhancers, compositions can be provided that can enhance or improve the penetration of certain classes of skin care active ingredients into the skin.

[0026] The present invention relates to In order to enhance or improve the penetration of the skin care active, a composition comprising the skin care active may include at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a higher HLB value; and At least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a lower HLB value. may be characterized by the use of a combination of:

[0027] The higher HLB value of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can fall within a higher HLB value range. The lower HLB value of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can fall within a lower HLB value range. The higher and lower HLB value ranges do not overlap with each other.

[0028] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is (b) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or greater, preferably 12.5 or greater, and more preferably 13.0 or greater; (c) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, and more preferably 9.0 or less; (d) at least one skin care active, and (e) water A composition comprising:

[0029] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (a) at least one oil.

[0030] The composition according to the present invention may (d) enhance or improve the penetration of a skin care active ingredient into the skin compared to not using a combination of (b) a first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or more, preferably 12.5 or more, more preferably 13.0 or more, and (c) a second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, more preferably 9.0 or less.

[0031] The compositions according to the invention may be transparent or translucent.

[0032] Compositions according to the present invention are preferably stable such that no or little phase separation occurs, even after long periods of storage at elevated temperatures.

[0033] The composition according to the invention is environmentally friendly since it uses, as a surfactant, polyglyceryl fatty acid esters which can be prepared by raw materials derived from natural sources such as plants.

[0034] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can be less sticky and therefore can provide a less sticky feel to the touch. The term "sticky" here means a property that gives a sticky feel to the skin. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide an excellent feeling in use, in particular an excellent skin feel after application of the composition.

[0035] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared without using a large amount of energy, such as that required by a homogenizer. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared using a small amount of energy, for example, by gently stirring the components of the composition. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is environmentally friendly in view of its preparation method.

[0036] The compositions according to the invention are described in more detail below.

[0037] [oil] The composition according to the invention may comprise (a) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, these may be the same or different.

[0038] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and at room temperature (25°C). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used, alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0039] The (a) oil may be a non-polar oil, such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil, such as a vegetable oil or an animal oil, and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0040] The (a) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.

[0041] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0043] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0044] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C 26 They are liquid esters with aliphatic monohydric alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, and the total number of carbon atoms in these esters is 10 or more.

[0045] Preferably, in the case of esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohols and acids from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0046] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monohydric alcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0047] C4~C 22Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters with alcohols, and mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0048] Mention may be made, inter alia, of the following: diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0049] As ester oil, C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids can be used. It should be remembered that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing some alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0050] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, e.g. methylglucose.

[0051] Sugar esters of fatty acids are in particular those which are composed of the aforementioned sugars and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 They can be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters with fatty acids. When these compounds are unsaturated, they can have 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0052] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut acid esters, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate, among others, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

[0054] More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, especially the mono- or dioleate, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose.

[0055] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0056] Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylate carbonate, and the like. Examples of suitable oleic acid salts include glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Examples of artificial triglycerides include capryl caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride.

[0058] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from polydialkylsiloxane fluids, in particular polydimethylsiloxane fluids (PDMS), and polyorganosiloxane fluids containing at least one aryl group.

[0060] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that may be used according to the invention are silicone oils as defined above, which contain in their structure one or more organic functional groups linked via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0061] Organopolysiloxanes are more fully defined in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones by Walter Noll, Academic Press (1968). They may be volatile or nonvolatile.

[0062] If they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C., and even more particularly chosen from:

[0063] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, for example of the formula:

[0064] [ka]

[0065] Mention may also be made of Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide of the same company.

[0066] Also included are mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, such as a 50 / 50 mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane.

[0067] (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and has a molecular weight of 5 × 10 at 25 °C -6 m 2 Linear, volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of less than 10000 / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445, Annex C.

[0068] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used, these being more particularly chosen from the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of the polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0069] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, but is not limited to, the following commercially available products: the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by the company Rhodia, such as for example the 70 047 V 500 000 oil; the Mirasil® series of oils sold by the company Rhodia; - Dow Corning 200 series oils, e.g. 60 000mm 2 / s viscosity, and - General Electric Viscasil® oils and certain oils of the General Electric SF series (SF 96, SF 18).

[0070] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.

[0071] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of the polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenylsilicone oils.

[0072] Phenyl silicone oils have the formula:

[0073] [ka]

[0074] (In the formula, R1~R 10 are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C 30 Hydrocarbon group, preferably C1-C 12 a hydrocarbon group, more preferably a C1 to C6 hydrocarbon group, in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl group; m, n, p, and q each independently represent an integer of 0 to 900, inclusive, preferably 0 to 500, inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100, inclusive; However, the sum of n+m+q is not 0.) The phenyl silicone may be selected from the group consisting of phenyl silicones.

[0075] Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names: - Rhodia Silbione® oils, series 70 641; Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils from Rhodia, - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid, an oil made by Dow Corning; - Bayer PK series silicones, e.g. product PK20, - Certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0076] As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R1 to R2 in the above formula) 10 is methyl, p, q, and n=0, and m=1.

[0077] The organically modified liquid silicones may contain, inter alia, polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Thus, mention may be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from Union Carbide.

[0078] The hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C 16 Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane. - Linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam®, and squalane.

[0079] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

[0080] The term "aliphatic" in aliphatic alcohols means including a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of aliphatic alcohols. The aliphatic alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The aliphatic alcohols may be linear or branched.

[0081] The aliphatic alcohol may have the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl and C 12 ~C 20 alkenyl groups, R may be unsubstituted or substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0082] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] The fatty alcohol is preferably a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0084] Thus, aliphatic alcohols are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 Alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C6-C 30 Alcohols, more preferably linear or branched, saturated C 12 ~C 20 Alcohol can be selected.

[0085] The term "saturated aliphatic alcohol" as used herein means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. A saturated aliphatic alcohol is any linear or branched, saturated C-C 30 It is preferably selected from aliphatic alcohols. Linear or branched saturated C6-C 30 Among fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C 12 ~C 20 Aliphatic alcohols are preferably used. Any linear or branched saturated C 16 ~C 20 Aliphatic alcohols are more preferably used. 16 ~C 20 Aliphatic alcohols are even more preferably used.

[0086] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), and behenyl alcohol can be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.

[0087] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohols used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] It is also preferred that the (a) oil is chosen from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

[0089] Preferably, the (a) oil has a low molecular weight, such as less than 600 g / mol, and contains one or more short hydrocarbon chains (C1 to C 12 ), ester oils (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols (C 12 ~C 30 ) type oils, such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.

[0090] It is preferred that the (a) oil is selected from polar oils, more preferably from ester oils.

[0091] The amount of (a) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] The amount of (a) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be up to 20% by weight, preferably up to 15% by weight, more preferably up to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] The amount of (a) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by mass, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by mass, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0094] [First polyglyceryl fatty acid ester] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (b) having an HLB value of 12.0 or more, preferably 12.5 or more, more preferably 13.0 or more. A single type of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (b) may be used, but two or more different types of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (b) may be used in combination.

[0095] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can function as a surfactant, particularly a nonionic surfactant.

[0096] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB value of 12.0 to 17.0, preferably 12.5 to 16.0, and more preferably 13.5 to 15.0.

[0097] The term HLB ("hydrophilic-lipophilic balance") is well known to those skilled in the art and describes the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic moieties in a molecule.

[0098] When two or more (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by a weighted average of the HLB values ​​of all the (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

[0099] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and higher esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.

[0100] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester preferably contains 2 to 4 glycerol units, preferably 3 or 4 glycerol units, and more preferably 4 glycerol units.

[0101] (b) The fatty acid or fatty acid moiety for the fatty acid portion of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may contain 12 carbon atoms or less, preferably 11 carbon atoms or less, more preferably 10 carbon atoms or less. (b) The fatty acid or fatty acid moiety for the fatty acid portion of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may contain 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more carbon atoms, more preferably 8 or more carbon atoms. (b) The fatty acid or fatty acid moiety for the fatty acid portion of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have 4 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 11 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0102] (b) The fatty acids for the fatty acid portion of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be saturated or unsaturated and can be selected from caprylic acid, capric acid, and lauric acid.

[0103] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG3 caprate (HLB: about 14), PG4 caprylate (HLB: 14), PG4 laurate (HLB: about 14), PG4 caprate (HLB: 14), PG5 myristate (HLB: 15.4), PG5 stearate (HLB: 15), PG6 caprylate (HLB: 14.6), PG6 caprate (HLB: 13.1), PG6 laurate (HLB: 14.1), PG10 laurate (HLB: 15.2), PG10 myristate (HLB: 14.9), PG10 stearate (HLB: 14.1), PG10 isostearate (HLB: 13.7), PG10 oleate (HLB: 13.0), PG10 coconut fatty acid (HLB: 16), and mixtures thereof.

[0104] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is preferably selected from the group consisting of PG3 caprate (HLB: about 14), PG4 caprylate (HLB: 14), PG4 laurate (HLB: about 14), PG4 caprate (HLB: 14), and mixtures thereof.

[0105] The amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] On the other hand, the amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] The amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be within the range of 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0108] The mass ratio of the amount of (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester / the amount of (a) oil (if present) in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.6 to 1.2, preferably 0.7 to 1.1, more preferably 0.8 to 1.0.

[0109] [Second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (c) having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, more preferably 9.0 or less. A single type of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (c) may be used, but two or more different types of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (c) may be used in combination.

[0110] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can function as a surfactant, particularly a nonionic surfactant.

[0111] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB value of 5.0 to 10.0, preferably 6.0 to 9.5, and more preferably 7.0 to 9.0.

[0112] When two or more (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by a weighted average of the HLB values ​​of all the (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

[0113] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and higher esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.

[0114] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester preferably contains 2 to 4 glycerol units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units, and more preferably 2 glycerol units.

[0115] (c) The fatty acid or fatty acid moiety for the fatty acid portion of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may contain 14 or more carbon atoms, preferably 16 or more carbon atoms, more preferably 18 or more carbon atoms. (c) The fatty acid or fatty acid moiety for the fatty acid portion of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may contain 30 or less carbon atoms, preferably 24 or less carbon atoms, more preferably 20 or less carbon atoms. (c) The fatty acid or fatty acid moiety for the fatty acid portion of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have 14 to 30, preferably 16 to 24, more preferably 18 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0116] (c) The fatty acids for the fatty acid portion of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be saturated or unsaturated and can be selected from myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and oleic acid.

[0117] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is PG2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG2 distearate (HLB: 4), PG2 isostearate (HLB: 8), PG2 diisostearate (HLB: 3.2), PG2 triisostearate (HLB: 3), PG2 sesquiisostearate (HLB: about 4), PG2 oleate (HLB: 8), PG2 sesquioleate (HLB: 5.3), PG3 distearate (HLB: 5), PG3 diisostearate (HLB: 5), PG3 dicocoate (HLB: 7), PG5 hexastearate (HLB: 4.0), PG5 trioleate (HLB: 7.0), PG10 pentaoleate (HLB: 6.4) ), PG2 sesquicaprylate (HLB: about 8), PG2 caprate (HLB: 9.5), PG2 laurate (HLB: 8.5), PG2 myristic acid (HLB: 10), PG2 isopalmitate (HLB: 9), PG4 oleate (HLB: 10), PG4 stearate (HLB: 9), PG4 isostearate (HLB: 8.2), PG6 distearate (HLB: 8), PG10 distearate (HLB: about 9), PG10 tristearate (HLB: 8), PG10 diisostearate (HLB: 10), PG10 triisostearate (HLB: 8), PG10 tricoconut fatty acid (HLB: 9), and mixtures thereof.

[0118] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is PG2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG2 distearate (HLB: 4), PG2 isostearate (HLB: 8), PG2 diisostearate (HLB: 3.2), PG2 triisostearate (HLB: 3), PG2 sesquiisostearate (HLB: about 4), PG2 oleate (HLB: 8), PG2 sesquioleate (HLB: 5.3), PG3 distearate (HLB: 5), diisostearyl Preferably, the fatty acids are selected from the group consisting of PG3 capric acid (HLB:5), PG3 dicoconut fatty acid (HLB:7), PG2 sesquicaprylic acid (HLB:about 8), PG2 capric acid (HLB:9.5), PG2 lauric acid (HLB:8.5), PG2 myristic acid (HLB:10), PG2 isopalmitic acid (HLB:9), PG4 oleic acid (HLB:10), PG4 stearate (HLB:9), PG4 isostearic acid (HLB:8.2), and mixtures thereof.

[0119] The amount of (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0120] On the other hand, the amount of (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] The amount of the (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be within the range of 0.01% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0122] The mass ratio of the amount of (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester / the amount of (a) oil (if present) in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.1 to 0.9, preferably 0.2 to 0.7, more preferably 0.3 to 0.5.

[0123] [Amount of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester] According to the present invention, the mass ratio of (the total amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester) / the amount of (a) oil (if present) may be 3.0 or less, preferably 2.0 or less, more preferably 1.5 or less.

[0124] Conventionally, the weight ratio of the amount of glyceryl fatty acid ester / oil (if present) is much higher, for example 6.0.

[0125] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can reduce or limit the total amount of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

[0126] Since the present invention can reduce the total amount of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, the composition according to the present invention can provide a touch that is not sticky or that has an even reduced sticky feel.

[0127] It is preferred that the mass ratio of (the total amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester) / the amount of (a) oil (if present) is greater than 0.1, preferably greater than 0.2, more preferably greater than 0.3.

[0128] On the other hand, according to the present invention, the mass ratio of the amount of (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester / (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be 1 or more, preferably 1.5 or more, more preferably 2 or more, and may be 5 or less, preferably 4 or less, more preferably 3 or less; it may be 1 to 5, preferably 1.5 to 4, more preferably 2 to 3.

[0129] [Average HLB of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester] The average HLB value of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be calculated as a weighted average of all of the first and second polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

[0130] The average HLB of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 11.5 or more, preferably 12.0 or more, and more preferably 12.5 or more.

[0131] The average HLB of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 14.0 or less, preferably 13.5 or less, and more preferably 13.0 or less.

[0132] Therefore, in one embodiment of the present invention, the average HLB of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be within the range of 11.5 to 14.0, preferably 12.0 to 13.5, and more preferably 12.5 to 13.0.

[0133] [Skin care active ingredients] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one skin care active ingredient (d). A single type of skin care active ingredient (d) may be used, or two or more different types of skin care active ingredients (d) may be used in combination.

[0134] (d) The skin care active ingredient preferably has a log P value within the range of -4.5 to 4.5, preferably -4.0 to 4.0, more preferably -3.5 to 3.5.

[0135] The log P value is the base 10 logarithm of the apparent partition coefficient of octan-1-ol / water. Log P values ​​are known and are determined by standard tests that determine the concentration of compound (c) in octan-1-ol and water. Log P can be calculated by the method described in Meylan and Howard's article: Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. This value may be calculated using a number of commercially available software packages that determine log P as a function of the structure of the molecule. An example is the Epiwin software from the United States Environmental Protection Agency.

[0136] This value may be calculated using, inter alia, ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) Solaris software V4.67; this value may also be obtained from Exploring QSAR: hydrophobic, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995). There is also an Internet site that provides approximate values ​​(address: http: / / esc.syrres.com / interkow / kowdemo.htm).

[0137] (d) The skin care actives may be in the form of a salt. Salts of (d) the skin care actives include the conventional non-toxic salts of such compounds formed, for example, from acids or bases.

[0138] (d) The skin care active is preferably a skin care cosmetic active, more preferably a skin whitening ingredient or a skin anti-aging ingredient, such as an anti-wrinkle ingredient.

[0139] (d) Skin care actives can include vitamin B3 and derivatives.

[0140] Vitamin B3, also known as vitamin PP, has the following formula:

[0141] [ka]

[0142] where R can be -CONH2 (niacinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH2OH (nicotinyl alcohol), -CO-NH-CH2-COOH (nicotinuric acid), or -CO-NH-OH (nicotinyl hydroxamic acid). Niacinamide is preferred.

[0143] Vitamin B3 derivatives that may be mentioned include, for example, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by replacement of the hydrogen group of -CONH2, products from the reaction of carboxylic acids with amino acids, esters of nicotinyl alcohol with carboxylic acids, for example acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.

[0144] Mention may also be made of the following derivatives: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.

[0145] Other vitamin B3 derivatives that may also be mentioned include inorganic salts, such as the chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates, and organic salts, such as those obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, for example acetates, salicylates, glycolates, lactates, malates, citrates, mandelates, tartrates, etc.

[0146] (d) Skin care actives include ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

[0147] Ascorbic acid is generally in the L form, as it is usually extracted from natural products.

[0148] Due to its chemical structure (α-keto lactone), which makes it very sensitive to certain environmental parameters, such as light, heat and aqueous media, it may be advantageous to use ascorbic acid in the form of a derivative or analogue chosen, for example, from sugar esters of ascorbic acid, or metal salts, alkali metal salts, esters and sugars of phosphoryl ascorbic acid.

[0149] Sugar esters of ascorbic acid which may be used in the present invention are, inter alia, the glycosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, galactosyl, N-acetylglucosamine and N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof, more particularly ascorbyl glucosides, such as ascorbyl-2-glucoside, 2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid, or 6-O-β-D-galactopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid. The latter compounds and methods for their preparation are described, inter alia, in documents EP-A-0 487 404, EP-A-0 425 066 and JP-A-05 213 736.

[0150] As regards the metal salt of phosphoryl ascorbic acid, it may be chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, especially sodium ascorbyl phosphate, alkaline earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

[0151] It is also possible to use ascorbic acid precursors, such as activator amides and activator sugar derivatives, which require proteases or peptidases and glycosidases, respectively, as enzymes to release ascorbic acid in situ. Such compounds are described in patent EP 0 667 145.

[0152] The active agent sugar derivative is in particular selected from C3-C6 sugar derivatives, in particular selected from glucosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, N-acetylglucosamine, galactosyl and N-acetylgalactosamine derivatives, N-acetylmuramic acid derivatives and sialic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0153] The second ascorbic acid precursor can be selected from derivatives that are hydrolyzed by other enzymes, for example by esterases, phosphatases, sulfatases, etc. According to the invention, the second active agent precursor can be selected, for example, from phosphates; sulfates; palmitates; acetates; propionates; ferulates; and generally alkyl or acyl esters of active agents; acyl or alkyl ethers. The acyl and alkyl groups contain, in particular, 1 to 30 carbon atoms. As a skin care active ingredient, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid can be mentioned.

[0154] In particular, the second precursor may be an ester derived from reaction with a mineral acid, such as a sulfate or phosphate ester, which reacts with sulfatases or phosphatases on contact with the skin, or the second precursor may be an acyl or alkyl ester derived from reaction with an organic acid, such as palmitic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, nicotinic acid, 1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid, or ferulic acid, which reacts with certain skin esterases.

[0155] Further derivatives are described, for example, in patent EP 1 430 883.

[0156] Ascorbic acid analogues are more particularly salts thereof, especially alkali metal salts such as sodium ascorbate, esters thereof, especially acetate, propionate or palmitate, or sugars thereof, especially glycosyl ascorbic acid.

[0157] (d) Skin care active ingredients include resorcinol derivatives.

[0158] The resorcinol derivative may be a derivative substituted at the 4-position, such as 4-alkylresorcinol, more preferably phenylethylresorcinol, 4-n-butylresorcinol, and 4-(tetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-yl)benzene-1,3-diol, especially phenylethylresorcinol for its whitening effect. Phenylethylresorcinol is also called 4-(1-phenylethyl)-1,3-benzenediol and is represented by the following chemical formula: Phenylethylresorcinol can be obtained, for example, from Symrise Corp (product name: Symwhite 377®).

[0159] [ka]

[0160] Other examples of resorcinol derivatives include 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 4-methylresorcinol, 4-ethylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 4,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2,4-dimethyl-1,3-benzenediol, 3,5-dihydroxybenzylamine, 5-methoxyresorcinol, 3,5-dihydroxybenzyl alcohol, 2-methoxyresorcinol, 4-methoxyresorcinol, 3,5-dihydroxytoluene monohydrate, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 2',4'-dihydro acetophenone, 3',5'-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-propylresorcinol, 2,4-dihydroxy-1,3,5-trimethylbenzene, 3,5-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,6-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,6-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzyl alcohol, 3,5-dihydroxyanisole hydrate, 4-amino Noresorcinol hydrochloride, 2-aminoresorcinol hydrochloride, 5-aminobenzene-1,3-diol hydrochloride, 2',4'-dihydroxypropiophenone, 2',4'-dihydroxy-3'-methylacetophenone, (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)acetone, (3,5-dihydroxyphenyl)acetone, 2,6-dihydroxy-4'-methylacetophenone, 4-n-butylresorcinol, 2,4-diethyl-1,3-benzenediol, 3,5-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzoic acid, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzoic acid Fragrance acid, 2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylbenzoic acid, 3,5-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, 2-ethyl-5-methoxybenzene-1,3-diol, 4-amino-3,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,5-dihydroxyacetophenone monohydrate, 3,5-dihydroxybenzylamine hydrochloride, 4,6-dichlororesorcinol, 2',4'-dihydroxy-3'-methylpropiophenone, 1-(3-ethyl-2,6-dihydroxyphenyl)ethan-1-one, 2',6'-dihydroxy-4'-methoxyacetophenone, 1-(2,6-dihydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)ethan-1-one, 3(2,4-dihydroxyphenylpropionic acid, and 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoic acid.

[0161] (d) Skin care active ingredients include C-glycoside derivatives.

[0162] The C-glycoside derivatives that may be present in the composition according to the invention have the general formula (II) below:

[0163] [ka]

[0164] (In the formula, R represents an unsubstituted linear C1-C4, especially C1-C2 alkyl group, in particular methyl; S represents a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, and L-fucose, in particular D-xylose; X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)-, preferentially a -CH(OH)- group. and also their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their optical isomers.

[0165] Non-limiting examples of C-glycoside derivatives particularly suitable for use in the present invention include, inter alia, the following derivatives: C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one, 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one, 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, Also included are cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and optical isomers thereof.

[0166] According to a particular embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and better still C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, may advantageously be used for the preparation of the composition according to the invention.

[0167] According to a particular embodiment, the C-glycoside derivative suitable for use in the present invention may advantageously be hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, also known as C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and sold, inter alia, under the name Mexoryl SBB® by the company Chimex, as a 30% by weight solution in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60 / 40). According to one embodiment, the C-glycoside derivative is in the form of a solution in which it is present in an amount of 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution, the remainder being a mixture of water and propylene glycol.

[0168] Salts of C-glycoside derivatives suitable for use in the present invention may include conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, for example salts formed from organic or mineral acids. Examples that may be mentioned include salts of mineral acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may contain one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. These may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or aromatic acids. These acids may also contain one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may be made, inter alia, of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

[0169] Acceptable solvates of the above compounds include conventional solvates, for example those formed during the final steps of the preparation of said compounds due to the presence of a solvent. Examples that may be mentioned include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0170] C-glycoside derivatives suitable for use in the present invention can be obtained, inter alia, by the synthetic methods described in document WO 02 / 051 828, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0171] (d) Skin care active ingredients include salicylic acid and its derivatives. Derivatives of salicylic acid are represented by the formula (III):

[0172] [ka]

[0173] (In the formula, the R group represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic chain containing 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing one or more double bonds, optionally conjugated, containing 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an aromatic nucleus linked directly or via a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing 2 to 7 carbon atoms to a carbonyl group, said groups being optionally substituted by one or more substituents, which may be the same or different, selected from: (a) a halogen atom, (b) a trifluoromethyl group, (c) a hydroxyl group in free form or esterified with an acid containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R' is a hydroxyl group. The salicylic acid derivatives may be in the form of salts derived from inorganic or organic bases.

[0174] (d) Even more preferably, the skin care active is selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, ascorbyl glucoside, phenylethyl resorcinol, hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, salicylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0175] The amount of (d) skin care active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0176] On the other hand, the amount of (d) skin care active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0177] The amount of the (d) skin care active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% to 20% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 15% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0178] [water] The composition according to the present invention comprises (e) water.

[0179] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 60% by mass or more, preferably 70% by mass or more, and more preferably 80% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0180] On the other hand, the amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by mass or less, preferably 90% by mass or less, more preferably 85% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0181] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be within the range of 60% by mass to 95% by mass, preferably 70% by mass to 90% by mass, and more preferably 80% by mass to 85% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0182] [Polyol] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one polyol. A single type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyols may also be used in combination.

[0183] The term "polyol" as used herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxyl groups and does not include sugars or their derivatives, which include sugar alcohols obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a sugar, and sugars or sugar alcohols in which the hydrogen atom in one or more of the hydroxyl groups is replaced with at least one substituent, such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.

[0184] The polyol is a C2-C hydroxyl group containing at least two hydroxyl groups, preferably 2 to 5 hydroxyl groups. 12 It may be a polyol, preferably a C2 to C9 polyol.

[0185] The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.

[0186] The polyol may be selected from glycerin and its derivatives, and glycols and its derivatives. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups), and sugars such as sorbitol.

[0187] The amount of polyol in the composition according to the invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] On the other hand, the amount of polyol in the composition according to the invention may be less than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 20% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0189] Thus, the polyol may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, for example from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] [Other ingredients] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more monohydric alcohols that are in liquid form at room temperature (25° C.), such as linear or branched monohydric alcohols containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, pentanol, and hexanol.

[0191] The amount of monohydric alcohol in the composition according to the invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0192] On the other hand, the amount of monohydric alcohol in the composition according to the invention may be less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] Therefore, the amount of monohydric alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0194] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise various adjuvants conventionally used in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, except for the components explained above, such as thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, antioxidants, colorants, chelating agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, preservatives, co-preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0195] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be free of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters containing 5 or more glycerol units, such as PG5 laurate. The term "free" here means that the composition according to the invention may contain a limited amount of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters containing 5 or more glycerol units. However, it is preferred that the amount of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters containing 5 or more glycerol units is limited to less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Most preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters containing 5 or more glycerol units.

[0196] In another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be free of polyoxyethylene-based nonionic surfactant.The term "free" here means that the composition according to the present invention may contain a limited amount of polyoxyethylene-based nonionic surfactant.However, it is preferred that the amount of polyoxyethylene-based nonionic surfactant is limited to less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not contain polyoxyethylene-based nonionic surfactant.

[0197] (preparation) The composition of the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential components described above and, if necessary, the optional components described above.

[0198] The method and means for mixing the above essential components and optional components are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential components and optional components to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0199] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared without using a large amount of energy, such as that required by homogenizers. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared using a small amount of energy, for example, by gently stirring the components of the composition. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is environmentally friendly in view of its preparation method.

[0200] [form] The form of the composition according to the present invention is not limited.

[0201] The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a nanoemulsion or a microemulsion when the composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one oil.

[0202] "Microemulsion" can be defined in two ways, that is, broadly and narrowly. That is, one is a case where microemulsion refers to a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase containing a three-component system having three components, an oil component, an aqueous component, and a surfactant ("microemulsion in the narrow sense"); the second is a case where microemulsion further includes an emulsion that shows a transparent or translucent appearance due to smaller particle size among typical thermodynamically unstable emulsion systems ("microemulsion in the broad sense"). (Satoshi Tomomasa et al., Oil Chemistry, Vol. 37, No. 11 (1988), pp. 48-53). "Microemulsion" as used herein refers to "microemulsion in the narrow sense", that is, a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase.

[0203] A microemulsion refers to any one of the following types of microemulsions: O / W (oil-in-water) type microemulsions in which oil is solubilized by micelles; W / O (water-in-oil) type microemulsions in which water is solubilized by reverse micelles; or bicontinuous microemulsions in which the number of surfactant molecule associations is infinite, resulting in both the aqueous and oily phases having a continuous structure.

[0204] Microemulsions may have a dispersed phase with a particle size of 100 nm or less, preferably 50 nm or less, more preferably 20 nm or less, as measured by laser granulometry.

[0205] By "nanoemulsion" is meant here an emulsion characterized by a dispersed phase with a size of less than 350 nm, which is stabilized by a crown of nonionic surfactants (b) and (c) that can optionally form a lamellar type liquid crystal phase at the dispersed phase / continuous phase interface. In the absence of specific opacifiers, the transparency of nanoemulsions arises from the small size of the dispersed phase, which is obtained by the use of mechanical energy.

[0206] Nanoemulsions can be distinguished from microemulsions by their structure. Specifically, microemulsions are thermodynamically stable dispersions formed, for example, from micelles formed by components (b) and (c) and swollen with component (a). Furthermore, microemulsions do not require substantial mechanical energy to prepare.

[0207] Nanoemulsions may have a dispersed phase with a particle size of 300 nm or less, preferably 200 nm or less, more preferably 100 nm or less, as measured by laser granulometry.

[0208] The composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an O / W emulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed oily phase may be oil droplets in the aqueous phase.

[0209] An O / W type constitution or structure consists of an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and therefore has an aqueous phase on the outside. Therefore, when the composition according to the present invention has an O / W type constitution or structure, it can provide a comfortable sensation when used due to the immediate feeling of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.

[0210] (a) It is even more preferred that the particle size of the oil is 35 nm or less, preferably 30 nm or less, more preferably 25 nm or less, when the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion. The particle size can be measured by dynamic light scattering. The particle size measurement can be carried out, for example, by a particle size analyzer ELSZ-2000 series, which is commercially available from Otsuka Electronics Co., Ltd.

[0211] The particle size may be the volume average particle diameter or the number average particle diameter, preferably the volume average particle diameter.

[0212] The composition according to the invention may be transparent.

[0213] The transparency can be measured by measuring the turbidity (for example, the turbidity can be measured using a 2100Q (commercially available from Hach Company) with a round cell (diameter 25 mm and height 60 mm) and a tungsten filament bulb capable of emitting visible light (between 400 nm and 800 nm, preferably 400-500 nm). The measurement can be performed on the undiluted composition. A blank can be determined using distilled water.

[0214] The composition according to the invention has a turbidity of 150 NTU or less, preferably 130 NTU or less, more preferably 110 NTU or less.

[0215] [Method and Use] The composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin.

[0216] The compositions according to the invention can be used for non-therapeutic methods, such as cosmetic methods, for treating the skin by application to the skin.

[0217] The present invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic method for treating the skin, comprising the step of applying to the skin a composition according to the invention.

[0218] The present invention may also relate to the use of a composition according to the invention as or in a cosmetic preparation, such as a skin care product.

[0219] In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic as it is. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as one component of a cosmetic. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added to any other component or combined with any other component to form a cosmetic.

[0220] The skin care product may be a lotion, cream, serum, sunscreen, or the like.

[0221] Another aspect of the present invention is also (b) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or greater, preferably 12.5 or greater, and more preferably 13.0 or greater; (c) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, and more preferably 9.0 or less; (d) at least one skin care active, and (e) water The present invention also relates to a method for preparing the composition, comprising the step of mixing

[0222] The mixing step is preferably carried out by a so-called low-energy process that does not use a special mechanical agitator such as a homogenizer that uses a large amount of energy. The low-energy process can be carried out by simply gently stirring the components (b) to (e).

[0223] The composition of the present invention may further comprise (a) at least one oil, in which case the composition of the present invention is preferably in the form of an O / W nano- or microemulsion.

[0224] Another aspect of the invention is a composition comprising (e) water or a composition, preferably in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion, comprising (a) at least one oil and (e) water, (d) at least one skin care active ingredient To enhance or improve skin penetration of (b) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or greater, preferably 12.5 or greater, and more preferably 13.0 or greater; and (c) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, and more preferably 9.0 or less. Regarding the use of.

[0225] The present invention also relates to a composition comprising (e) water or a composition comprising (a) at least one oil and (e) water, preferably in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion, (d) at least one skin care active ingredient As a skin penetration enhancer for (b) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or greater, preferably 12.5 or greater, and more preferably 13.0 or greater; and (c) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, and more preferably 9.0 or less. Regarding the use of.

[0226] The above explanations regarding components (b) to (e) and optional components including component (a) for the composition according to the present invention can be applied to the components for the uses and methods according to the present invention. The explanations regarding the preparation and form of the composition according to the present invention can also be applied to the preparation and form of the composition described in the above uses and methods. EXAMPLES

[0227] The present invention will now be described in more detail by examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0228] (Examples 1 to 12 and Comparative Examples 1 to 18) The following compositions according to Examples 1-12 and Comparative Examples 1-18 shown in Tables 1-6 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Tables 1-6 as follows. All figures for the amounts of components shown in Tables 1-6 are based on "wt %" of the active material.

[0229] [Table 1A]

[0230]

Table 1B

[0231]

Table 2A

[0232]

Table 2B

[0233]

Table 3A

[0234]

Table 3B

[0235]

Table 4A

[0236]

Table 4B

[0237]

Table 5A

[0238]

Table 5B

[0239]

Table 6A

[0240]

Table 6B

[0241] [evaluation] (stability) The compositions according to Examples 1 to 12 and Comparative Examples 1 to 18 were kept in an incubator for one month at 45° C. The appearance of the compositions was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0242] Good: No phase separation observed Poor: Phase separation observed

[0243] The results are shown in the rows labeled "Stability" in Tables 1-6.

[0244] (Amount of active ingredient penetrated) The permeation test experiments were carried out in a Franz diffusion cell (Hanson) using a Strat-M membrane (Millipore, diameter 15 mm). The device consisted of a donor section and a receptor section, with the Strat-M membrane between the donor section and the receptor section. The receptor section having a given volume was filled with a receiving solution (0.25% by weight Tween 80 / deionized water) maintained at a temperature of 32°C, which was continuously stirred by a small magnetic bar. Each composition according to Examples 1-12 and Comparative Examples 1-18 was added to the mixture at a concentration of 30 mg / cm using a spatula. 2 The amount of the receptor solution was spread on the membrane of the donor section. After 5 hours, 200 μl of the receptor solution was removed from the receptor section, and the same amount of fresh receptor solution was supplied to the receptor section to maintain the same permeation conditions. The removed receptor solution was analyzed by HPLC to determine the amount of active component in the receptor solution. The percentage of the active component that passed through the membrane was calculated by dividing the detected amount of active component in the receptor solution by the amount of active component spread on the membrane.

[0245] The results are shown in Tables 1 to 6 in the row labeled "Amount of active ingredient penetrated."

[0246] A comparison of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3 demonstrates that the use of two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in an emulsion enhanced the penetration of the active ingredient (ascorbyl glucoside) compared to the use of a single polyglyceryl fatty acid ester or no polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

[0247] Example 2 demonstrates that the use of two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters enhanced the penetration of the active ingredient (ascorbyl glucoside) even in the absence of oil.

[0248] A comparison of Example 3 and Comparative Examples 4-6 demonstrates that the use of two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in the emulsion enhanced the penetration of the active ingredient (hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol) compared to the use of a single polyglyceryl fatty acid ester or no polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

[0249] Example 4 demonstrates that the use of two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters enhanced the penetration of the active ingredient (hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol) even in the absence of oil.

[0250] A comparison of Example 5 and Comparative Examples 7-9 demonstrates that the use of two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in the emulsion enhanced the penetration of the active ingredient (3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid) compared to the use of a single polyglyceryl fatty acid ester or no polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

[0251] Example 6 demonstrates that the use of two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters enhanced the penetration of the active ingredient (3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid) even in the absence of oil.

[0252] A comparison of Example 7 and Comparative Examples 10-12 demonstrates that the use of two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in an emulsion enhanced the penetration of the active ingredient (niacinamide) compared to the use of a single polyglyceryl fatty acid ester or no polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

[0253] Example 8 demonstrates that the use of two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters enhanced the penetration of the active ingredient (niacinamide) even in the absence of oil.

[0254] A comparison of Example 9 and Comparative Examples 13-15 demonstrates that the use of two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in an emulsion enhanced the penetration of the active ingredient (salicylic acid) compared to the use of a single polyglyceryl fatty acid ester or no polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

[0255] Example 10 demonstrates that the use of two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters enhanced the penetration of the active ingredient (salicylic acid) even in the absence of oil.

[0256] A comparison of Example 11 and Comparative Examples 16-18 demonstrates that the use of two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in an emulsion enhanced the penetration of the active ingredient (phenylethyl resorcinol) compared to the use of a single polyglyceryl fatty acid ester or no polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

[0257] Example 12 demonstrates that the use of two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters enhanced the penetration of the active ingredient (phenylethyl resorcinol) even in the absence of oil.

Claims

1. (b) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or greater, preferably 12.5 or greater, and more preferably 13.0 or greater; (c) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, and more preferably 9.0 or less; (d) at least one skin care active, and (e) water A composition comprising:

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the average HLB of the (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and the (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition is in the range of 11.5 to 14.0, preferably 12.0 to 13.5, and more preferably 12.5 to 13.

0.

3. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprises 2 to 4 glycerol units, preferably 3 or 4 glycerol units, more preferably 4 glycerol units.

4. 4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the fatty acid portion of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprises no more than 12 carbon atoms, preferably no more than 11 carbon atoms, and more preferably no more than 10 carbon atoms.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition is in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. 6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprises from 2 to 4 glycerol units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units, more preferably 2 glycerol units.

7. 7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the fatty acid portion of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprises 14 or more carbon atoms, preferably 16 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 or more carbon atoms.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. 9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the weight ratio of the amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester / (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.5 to 4, more preferably from 2 to 3.

10. 10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein (d) at least one skin care active ingredient in the composition has a logP value in the range of -4.5 to 4.5, preferably -4.0 to 4.0, more preferably -3.5 to 3.

5.

11. 11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the (d) skin care active ingredient is a skin care cosmetic active ingredient, preferably a skin whitening or anti-wrinkle ingredient, more preferably selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, ascorbyl glucoside, phenylethyl resorcinol, hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, salicylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

12. The composition according to claim 1 , comprising: (a) at least one oil.

13. 13. The composition according to claim 12, wherein the amount of (a) oil in the composition is in the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. 14. The composition according to claim 12 or 13, in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion.

15. A cosmetic method for treating the skin, comprising the step of applying to the skin a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14.

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