Cosmetic composition for improving skin luster without oiliness

Abstract

To disclose a cosmetic composition that enhances and retains skin luster without oiliness, while maintaining conventional physical properties.SOLUTION: The present disclosure provides a cosmetic composition which enhances and retains skin luster without oiliness, while maintaining conventional physical properties. According to the present disclosure, such a cosmetic composition can be provided that comprises a white plate-like filler and exhibits excellent covering ability while achieving a desired level of luster without oiliness.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] Disclosed herein is a cosmetic composition that improves and sustains skin radiance while maintaining conventional physical properties, and is free of greasiness. [Background technology]

[0002] In order to improve and sustain the shine of base makeup such as foundations and cushions, the main methods used are to incorporate high refractive index oils and / or high refractive index polyols in large amounts or to use film agents.

[0003] However, these methods may cause the following problems.

[0004] First, because it is an oil-based shine, it can give the skin an excessive shine that can be perceived as greasiness. This is different from the clean shine that consumers generally prefer, so the ingredients cannot be used to their full potential, and can only be used at the appropriate level to give the desired shine.

[0005] Even if a film agent is used, the skin's luster caused by oil or moisture evaporates or disappears, so the durability of the luster has always been an issue.

[0006] There are techniques to compensate for this by using pigments, but in reality, pigments have the effect of suppressing oil content, which reduces gloss, increases viscosity, making it difficult to spread, and increases thickness, resulting in undesirable properties that make them difficult to apply in high concentrations.

[0007] There is a demand for the development of cosmetic compositions that improve the durability of shine and do not cause greasiness. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0008] [Patent Document 1] Korean Patent Publication No. 2020-0107522 [Non-patent literature]

[0009] [Non-Patent Document 1] Study for skin gloss perception using computer modulation and frequency separation on surface reflection(Intern J of Cosmetic Sci,First published:22 March 2023,DOI:(10.1111 / ics.12859) Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0010] An object of one aspect of the present disclosure is to provide a cosmetic composition that improves and sustains skin luster while maintaining conventional physical properties, and is free of shine. [Means for solving the problem]

[0011] In one aspect, the present specification provides a cosmetic composition including a white plate-like filler, wherein the oil absorption of the filler is 40 mL / g or less, and the hiding power of the filler is such that the dE value in color difference measurement is 3 to 20. Effect of the Invention

[0012] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition disclosed herein contains a white plate-like filler having specific values ​​of oil absorption and hiding power, and is capable of maintaining and improving the radiance of the skin without greasiness. [Brief description of the drawings]

[0013] [Figure 1] FIG. 13 is a diagram showing the results of observing skin luster and shine in one embodiment of the present disclosure. [Diagram 2] 1 is a sample photograph for defining skin gloss and grease as numerical values ​​in the present disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0014] The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. However, the following examples are merely illustrative to aid in understanding the present invention, and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention.

[0015] An exemplary embodiment of the present disclosure provides a cosmetic composition for improving the luster of skin without shine, the cosmetic composition comprising a white plate-like filler, the oil absorption of the filler being 40 mL / g or less, and the shielding power of the filler being a dE value of 3 to 20 in color difference measurement.

[0016] Another exemplary implementation of the present disclosure provides a method for improving skin radiance, comprising applying the cosmetic composition to the skin.

[0017] In another exemplary embodiment of the present disclosure, there is provided a method for improving the radiance of skin without a shiny feel, comprising applying the cosmetic composition to the skin.

[0018] Another exemplary embodiment of the present disclosure provides a use of a white plate-like filler for preparing a cosmetic composition for improving skin luster, the filler having an oil absorption of 40 mL / g or less and a shielding power of the filler having a dE value of 3 to 20 in color difference measurement.

[0019] Another exemplary embodiment of the present disclosure provides a use of a white plate-like filler for preparing a cosmetic composition for improving skin luster without shine, wherein the oil absorption of the filler is 40 mL / g or less, and the hiding power of the filler is a dE value of 3 to 20 in color difference measurement.

[0020] Another exemplary implementation of the present disclosure provides a non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition for improving skin radiance, the cosmetic composition comprising a white plate-like filler, the oil absorption of the filler being 40 mL / g or less, and the hiding power of the filler being a dE value of 3 to 20 in color difference measurement.

[0021] Another exemplary implementation of the present disclosure provides a non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition for improving skin radiance without causing greasiness, the cosmetic composition comprising a white plate-like filler, the oil absorption of the filler being 40 mL / g or less, and the shielding power of the filler being a dE value of 3 to 20 in color difference measurement.

[0022] Spherical or amorphous fillers exhibit optical properties centered on diffuse reflection and can impart a matte effect, whereas plate-like fillers exhibit optical properties centered on regular reflection and can impart a gloss effect.

[0023] On the other hand, fillers can have different oil absorptions depending on their particle size, and the same material can have different oil absorptions depending on the porosity that occurs during the synthesis process. Therefore, oil absorption can be considered to be a characteristic of each raw material.

[0024] In the present disclosure, by including a white plate-like filler, it is possible to improve and maintain the luster of the skin while having a moderate shielding power. Here, since the plate-like filler is limited to white and no other color effect is imparted, it can be used as a variety of cosmetic compositions. If the oil absorption of the filler exceeds 40 mL / g, it may absorb oil from the skin excessively, and the luster on the skin may not be improved when the cosmetic composition is applied, and there is a risk that the high oil absorption may increase the viscosity, resulting in an unfavorable feeling for consumers.

[0025] The oil absorption of the filler may be, for example, 40 mL / g or less, 37 mL / g or less, 35 mL / g or less, 30 mL / g or less, 25 mL / g or less, or 20 mL / g or less, and may be 15 mL / g or more, 20 mL / g or more, 25 mL / g or more, 30 mL / g or more, or 35 mL / g or more.

[0026] The higher the dE value of the color difference measurement of the filler, the higher the covering power, and the lower the dE value, the higher the transparency. If the dE value of the color difference measurement is less than 3, there is no covering power when applied to the skin, and skin blemishes and the like are transparently exposed, so even if the filler absorbs oil sufficiently, there is a possibility that the reflectance increasing effect will not be obtained. If the dE value exceeds 20, the covering power is too high and is expressed as an artificial luster, and it may be difficult to impart natural covering power to the skin.

[0027] For example, the dE value of the color difference measurement may be 3 or more, 5 or more, 7 or more, 9 or more, 11 or more, 13 or more, 15 or more, 17 or more, or 19 or more, and may be 20 or less, 18 or less, 16 or less, 14 or less, 12 or less, 10 or less, 8 or less, 6 or less, or 4 or less.

[0028] In one implementation, the particle size of the filler may be 1 to 20 μm.

[0029] If the particle size of the filler is less than 1 μm, the effect of improving the gloss may not be achieved, whereas if it exceeds 20 μm, the particle feel may be unpleasant for the user.

[0030] For example, the particle size may be 1 μm or more, 3 μm or more, 5 μm or more, 7 μm or more, 9 μm or more, 11 μm or more, 13 μm or more, 15 μm or more, 17 μm or more, or 19 μm or more, or may be 20 μm or less, 18 μm or less, 16 μm or less, 14 μm or less, 12 μm or less, 10 μm or less, 8 μm or less, 6 μm or less, 4 μm or less, or 2 μm or less.

[0031] In one implementation, the filler may include at least one selected from the group consisting of alumina, bismuth oxychloride, talc, mica, sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, illite, magnesium / potassium / silicone / fluoride / hydroxide / oxide, boron nitride, calcium aluminum borosilicate, calcium titanium borosilicate, and combinations thereof.

[0032] For example, the combination may be a combination of mica and titanium dioxide, or a combination of synthetic fluorophlogopite and titanium dioxide, and among flake-type species, a type that satisfies the above-mentioned oil absorption and shielding power conditions may be used.

[0033] In one embodiment, the filler may be modified with at least one selected from the group consisting of a silicone-based compound, an amino acid-based compound, and a metal salt-based compound.

[0034] In one implementation, the silicone-based compound may include at least one of methicone, dimethicone, and triethoxycaprylylsilane, the amino acid-based compound may include at least one of lauroyl lysine, sodium lauroyl glutamate, and disodium stearoyl glutamate, and the metal salt-based compound may include at least one of magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and zinc myristate.

[0035] In one embodiment, when the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin, the low frequency measurement value of the skin may be 15 or more. The low frequency value (LFM; Low Frequency Mean) is a value indicating the intensity of skin luster, and can be calculated using Image Pro 10 (Media Cybernetics, USA) using a photograph of the skin taken after the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin.

[0036] In one embodiment, when the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin, the percentage of low frequency / high frequency measurement value of the skin may be 60% or more. High Frequency Standard Deviation (HFSD) is a value indicating unevenness of luster, and can be calculated using Image Pro 10 (Media Cybernetics, USA) using a photograph of the skin taken after applying the cosmetic composition to the skin.

[0037] In the present disclosure, a lower HFSD / LFM value can be seen as an ideal skin glow.

[0038] In one implementation, the cosmetic composition may be a water-in-oil composition.

[0039] For example, the cosmetic composition may contain an oil phase and an aqueous phase, and the oil phase or the aqueous phase may contain white plate-like filler. Generally, the filler is dispersed in the oil phase, but in the case of a filler that has not been surface-treated, it may also be dispersed in the aqueous phase.

[0040] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition may contain 0.1 to 5% by weight of the filler based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0041] If the content of the filler is less than 0.1% by weight, the oil absorption effect is minimal, whereas if it exceeds 5% by weight, the viscosity increases excessively (to more than 2000 cps), which may cause consumers to feel uncomfortable when using the product.

[0042] For example, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the filler may be 0.1 wt % or more, 0.5 wt % or more, 1 wt % or more, 2 wt % or more, 3 wt % or more, or 4 wt % or more, or may be 5 wt % or less, 4 wt % or less, 3 wt % or less, 2 wt % or less, 1 wt % or less, or 0.5 wt % or less.

[0043] In one implementation, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition may be less than 2000 cps.

[0044] In one embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition may be less than 2000 cps as measured by a Brookfield viscometer (measurement conditions: 30° C., 64 spindle, 12 rpm, 1 minute).

[0045] For example, the viscosity may be less than 2000 cps, less than 1500 cps, less than 1000 cps, or less than 500 cps.

[0046] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further include functional additives and components contained in general cosmetic compositions. The functional additives may include components selected from the group consisting of water-soluble vitamins, oil-soluble vitamins, polymeric peptides, polymeric polysaccharides, squalane, sphingolipids, and seaweed extracts.

[0047] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further contain components contained in general cosmetic compositions, if necessary, together with the functional additives. Examples of other components that may be contained include oils and fats, moisturizers, emollients, emulsifiers, organic and inorganic pigments, organic powders, UV absorbers, preservatives, bactericides, antioxidants, plant extracts, pH adjusters, alcohols, colorants, fragrances, blood circulation promoters, cooling agents, antiperspirants, purified water, etc.

[0048] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition may be for base makeup.

[0049] For example, the cosmetic composition may be formulated into the form of a makeup primer, foundation, makeup base, two-way cake, fact, powder, cushion (a type in which the cosmetic composition is supported on a support), emulsion cake, etc.

[0050] The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. However, the following examples are merely illustrative to aid in understanding the present invention, and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention.

[0051] [Example] Measurement / evaluation methods and standards 1) Skin radiance and shine criteria As shown in FIG. 2, sample photos were prepared to define skin gloss and grease as numerical values. (Intern J of Cosmetic Sci, First published: 22 March 2023, DOI: (10.1111 / ics.12859)) The low frequency value (LFM) indicates the intensity of gloss, and the high frequency unevenness (HFSD) means unevenness of gloss. The more uneven the gloss, the more people perceive it as grease rather than gloss. Therefore, in the following examples, the lower the HFSD / LFM value, the more ideal the gloss was evaluated. [See Non-Patent Document 1]

[0052] Specifically, facial images were taken using a VISIA-CR (Canfield Science, USA) and then saved as JPEG files in the sRGB color space using Image Pro 10 (Media Cybernetics, USA). The saved images were processed using a low-pass filter (kernel size 3 × 3), and then LFM and HFSD values ​​were calculated using Image Pro 10 (Media Cybernetics, USA). Based on the calculated values, 15 evaluators looked at each image and classified it into gloss / shiny, and then defined the meaning of each value.

[0053] 2) Oil absorption amount Place the test sample on a flat plate and slowly add the oil (Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride) 4 or 5 drops at a time using a burette. After each oil addition, mix the sample and oil thoroughly with a palette knife. Continue adding oil at the same rate, allowing the oil and material to form a clump. Once a clump forms, add oil one drop at a time and mix thoroughly with the palette knife. Add oil until the dough is uniformly mixed. The dough should spread readily on the flat plate and adhere readily without cracking or crumbling.

[0054] The amount of oil used is read from the burette and recorded. The time required to complete the process should be around 20-30 minutes, during which the worker must use maximum effort to process the entire sample. The results are displayed based on a sample weight of 100g, and are expressed as the amount of oil added / 100g at the time the process is completed (when the sample becomes one lump). [Quoted from Korea Standard Certification KSM ISO 787-5: General test methods for pigments and extender pigments - Part 5: Determination of oil absorption (https: / / standard.go.kr / KSCI / portalindex.do)]

[0055] 3) Particle size An appropriate amount of sample is dispersed in a solvent (ethanol), and then measured using a Mastersizer 2000 (Malvern), which is a device that calculates / measures particle size using the light scattered by the sample using laser diffraction, the solvent, and the refractive index of the sample. At this time, the particle size distribution is obtained, and the D50 value, which means the median particle size, is used, and the unit is μm.

[0056] 4) Shielding power ASTM 344 ​​measures the hiding power by applying paint with a brush to a black and white drawdown tile card, and then measuring how similar the paint colors are on the black and white cards. In the following examples, the above sample is dispersed in oil (Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride) at 10 wt%, and a solution is applied to a thickness of 75 μm on black artificial leather. At that time, the difference (dE=((L1-L2)) between the color (L*, a*, b*) of the uncoated artificial leather and the color (L*, a*, b*) of the leather to which the sample was applied is calculated. 2 )+(a1-a2) 2 +(b1-b2) 2 ) 1 / 2 ) is considered to be the hiding power. Since both are white powders, the greater the color difference with uncoated black leather, regardless of the difference with white leather, the higher the hiding power is considered to be. The color difference value dE is a value that represents the distance between two color coordinates in the color coordinate system, and is expressed in the format "dE = number" without a separate unit. (L*a*b*) [Based on ASTM D 344 Test Method for Relative Hiding Power of Paints by the Visual Evaluation of Brushouts]

[0057] 5) Gloss intensity (in-vivo) It means the LFM value calculated by the method disclosed in 1) above. After a subject applies an appropriate amount of the sample to the face, the measurement is performed on the forehead.

[0058] 6) Uneven shine (in-vivo) This means the HFSD / LFM (*100%) value calculated by the method disclosed in 1) above. The sample is measured at the forehead after the subject administers an appropriate amount to the face. The unit is %.

[0059] [Experimental Example] Experimental Example 1 - Gloss Intensity by Oil Absorption (in-vitro) The compositions were prepared as shown in Table 1 below. The compositions were prepared according to the following steps: the powder portion was dispersed in the oil phase portion, and then the water phase portion was added to the oil phase portion and emulsified. 1) Oil phase mixing 2) Disperse the powder in the oil phase 3) Add the water phase to the oil phase in which the powder is dispersed to emulsify.

[0060] Therefore, it was finally prepared as a w / o formulation, with the powder portion being present in the oil phase, which is the outer phase.

[0061] The gloss intensity (in-vitro) was measured according to the oil absorption for the compositions shown in Table 1. The hiding power dE was set within the range of 3 to 20, and the size within the range of 1 to 20 μm. It was confirmed that if the oil absorption is excessively high, the gloss effect is significantly reduced.

[0062] [Table 1A]

[0063] [Table 1B]

[0064] [Table 1C]

[0065] Experimental Example 2 - Gloss Intensity by Shielding Power (in-vitro) Compositions were prepared as shown in Table 2 below, and the intensity of shine due to the shielding power (in-vitro) was measured. The oil absorption was set to a range of 20 to 40 mL / g, and the size to a range of 1 to 20 μm. In other words, this experiment was conducted to verify the shielding power while maintaining the same particle size and oil absorption. Generally, if the shielding power is low, there is no effect of improving the intensity of shine. In the case of ingredients with high shielding power (over 20), although they have the effect of improving shine, they are not considered suitable because they produce an unnatural shine when applied directly to the face.

[0066] [Table 2A]

[0067] [Table 2B]

[0068] [Table 2C]

[0069] Experimental Example 3 - Comparison by particle size (in-vivo) When preparing compositions as shown in Tables 1 and 2, a commonly used white plate-like filler having a size of 1 to 20 μm was used. Plate-like pigments of 1 μm or less are not usually used, and pigments of several hundred nm are generally used as colorants. Furthermore, if the size exceeds 20 μm, the raw material feels granular when the formulation is applied, and it is considered that the filler is not suitable for use as base makeup such as foundation and makeup base.

[0070] Experimental example 4 - Enhanced shine and improved durability The in-vivo shine intensity (LFM), unevenness CV (HFSM / LFM%), and their persistence over time were observed. The test samples used were the composition of Example 1 and a powder-free formulation (control group) (unit: %). The composition was applied to the skin and a photograph was taken as shown in Figure 1. Based on this, the LFM value and HFSM value were measured according to the above-mentioned [criteria for skin shine and greasiness].

[0071] First, the results of measuring the LFM value over time are shown in Table 3 below. The values ​​are the average values ​​of N=4, and it was confirmed that when a gloss material within the range specified in this disclosure is included, there is a significant effect on improving gloss even in actual human skin. In addition, in the control group that does not contain white plate-like filler, this was not achieved with the high refractive index oil and polyol, whereas according to this embodiment, the gloss can be sustained.

[0072] [Table 3]

[0073] The results of measuring the change over time (HFSM / LFM%) are shown in Table 4 below. The values ​​are average values ​​of N=4, and it was confirmed that when a gloss material within the range specified in this disclosure is included, the unevenness as the standard in Non-Patent Document 1 is low, and an ideal appearance that is recognized as a gloss and not a shine is achieved. When a long time has passed since application, makeup is likely to be recognized as a shine, but it can be seen that the gloss of the examples maintains low unevenness even after a long time has passed, and is realized as an ideal gloss.

[0074] [Table 4]

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for improving skin luster without greasiness, comprising: The cosmetic composition contains a white plate-like filler, The oil absorption of the filler is 40 mL / g or less, The cosmetic composition is characterized in that the hiding power of the filler is such that the dE value of the color difference measurement is 3 to 20.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the particle size of the filler is from 1 to 20 μm.

3. 2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the filler comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of alumina, bismuth oxychloride, talc, mica, sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, illite, magnesium / potassium / silicone / fluoride / hydroxide / oxide, boron nitride, calcium aluminum borosilicate, calcium titanium borosilicate, and combinations thereof.

4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , wherein the filler is modified with at least one selected from the group consisting of a silicone-based compound, an amino acid-based compound, and a metal salt-based compound.

5. the silicone-based compound comprises at least one of methicone, dimethicone, and triethoxycaprylylsilane; The amino acid compound includes at least one of lauroyl lysine, sodium lauroyl glutamate, and disodium stearoyl glutamate; The cosmetic composition according to claim 4 , wherein the metal salt compound comprises at least one of magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and zinc myristate.

6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , wherein when the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin, the low frequency measurement value of the skin is 15 or more.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein when the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin, the percentage of low frequency / high frequency measurements of the skin is 60% or greater.

8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , wherein the cosmetic composition is a water-in-oil composition.

9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising 0.1 to 5% by weight of said filler, based on the total weight of said cosmetic composition.

10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , wherein the viscosity of the cosmetic composition is less than 2000 cps.

11. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , which is for base makeup.

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