Compositions based on alkane and ester with temperature storage stability, use thereof as softening agents and emulsions comprising the same

Abstract

To provide oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions for topical use, in which sensory properties are improved by using a chemical composition of plant origin and / or biodegradable origin.SOLUTION: Provided are a composition (C1) comprising, for 100 wt.% thereof: a) 30 wt.% of an ester, and b) 70 wt.% of a mixture (M1) of hydrocarbons, at least 94 wt.% of which comprise 15 to 19 carbon atoms, the composition (C1) being defined by the alkane weight percentage and the number of carbon atoms contained per 100 wt.% of the mixture (M1), and oil-in-water emulsions and water-in-oil emulsions comprising such a composition (C1).SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for topical use comprising at least one mixture of saturated, cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched hydrocarbons and at least one fatty acid ester, which exhibits the property of remaining transparent, colorless and odorless after storage at different temperatures.

[0002] The present invention also relates to the use of said composition and to cosmetic preparations for topical use comprising same. [Background technology]

[0003] Many cosmetic preparations for topical use are intended to protect the skin, mucous membranes and scalp from external and environmental attacks and stresses.For example, consumers are seeking preparations to be applied to the skin, which protect it from the harmful and unsightly effects of prolonged exposure to the ultraviolet rays of the sun, or prevent the harmful changes to the integrity of the skin after more frequent exposure to the pollutants present in air, more particularly urban air.To meet these demands, the cosmetics and dermocosmetics industry has developed new specific ingredients over the past decades to improve the performance qualities required by consumers, with the aim of maintaining and / or restoring the integrity of skin in the face of certain external elements or natural aging.

[0004] Moreover, consumers also look for sensory and aesthetic properties provided by cosmetic and dermocosmetic compositions that provide both a feeling of well-being during and after application to the skin, and also a sense of unity with the appearance of the cosmetic or dermocosmetic preparation, reflecting quality standards. Therefore, consumers are looking for cosmetic or dermocosmetic compositions that provide skin comfort during and after application to the skin. Such a feeling of comfort is enhanced if the spreading process of the cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition is easy, i.e. its duration is reduced, more specifically if it is not prolonged as a result of resistance on the skin during said spreading and / or when the consumer has to apply high shear forces to the skin (which is also represented by a higher application speed during spreading and / or by applying forces with a higher intensity during said spreading stage).

[0005] In particular cases, such as cosmetic or dermocosmetic preparations intended to prevent the undesirable effects of UV rays of the sun on the skin (redness, erythema and burns) or creams intended for anti-inflammatory and anti-rheumatic treatment by topical route, characterized by difficulty in spreading, it has been observed that consumers do not follow the procedure of applying said protective or care products very strictly.Therefore, in many cases, the product is hardly applied and / or applied with a frequency that is not sufficiently maintained, resulting in less protection of the skin than predicted in the information sheet and / or on the packaging.Therefore, in order to encourage better and more frequent application of these preventive and protective preparations to the skin, it is important that said preparations present a pleasant sensation without involving too great application intensity and can be spread evenly and quickly on the skin. Additionally, consumers are seeking cosmetic or dermocosmetic formulations that do not mar the appearance of the skin, such as by leaving an oily residue in the form of a thin film, and in contrast, cosmetic or dermocosmetic formulations that impart a matte appearance to the skin would be preferred and sought after.

[0006] Taking these requirements into account, those skilled in the art make use of a category of ingredients called "emollients", consisting of chemical substances and chemical compositions that can be combined with other ingredients present in cosmetic or dermocosmetic formulations for topical use.

[0007] In the context of the present invention, an "emollient" is defined as a preparation that contains an emollient that has a moisturizing effect on human skin after application. It means a chemical substance or chemical composition that imparts the property of softening the surface of the skin. Such "emollients" are described in the document International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Vol. 4 (9th ed., 2002), especially on p. 2930-2936. The disclosure of International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Vol. 4, p. 2930-2936 is incorporated by reference into this patent application.

[0008] The European patent application published under EP 2 644 188 A1 discloses oil-in-water emulsions exhibiting improved spreadability on the skin comprising a combination of at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone resin, at least one polyvinyl alcohol, a polyacrylamide type thickener and an oil selected from the members of the group consisting of triglyceride type vegetable oils, waxes, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, silicone oils and perfluorinated oils.

[0009] The international application published under WO 2011 / 065771 discloses and teaches the spreadability and flexibility provided during application of a water-in-oil-in-water emulsion prepared from a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a silicone-based emulsifier, a di-polyhydroxyalkylate type emulsifier, a hectorite type inorganic thickener, and a polar oil.

[0010] These prior art solutions in the art describe the improvement of the spreadability of emulsions by utilizing silicone compounds and other surfactants for which alternatives are sought by those skilled in the art in an approach that takes into account sustainable development, more particularly where ingredients are used that do not emit and / or do not involve volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in their production, and / or where biodegradable ingredients are used in accordance with the regulatory standards in force, and / or where plant ingredients are used that are no longer of fossil origin.

[0011] More specifically, silicone derivatives, such as polysiloxane class chemicals and chemical compositions, are known to provide improved sensory properties to oil-in-water emulsions, especially in terms of ease of spreading on the skin after application and limiting lipid residue.However, the environmental properties associated with these ingredients have necessitated the search for alternatives that provide similar sensory properties while complying with current and upcoming regulations and with environmental properties that comply with target consumer requirements.

[0012] A partially satisfactory alternative has been demonstrated by the use of alkane compositions containing large amounts of cycloalkanes to prepare oil-in-water cosmetic emulsions, which alkane mixtures exhibit satisfactory biodegradability and satisfactory sensory properties, but it was determined that there is room for improvement.

[0013] A recent advance is disclosed in the international patent application published under WO 2018 / 109354 A1 and consists of the use of a mixture of saturated, cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched hydrocarbons containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms for preparing oil-in-water emulsions, resulting in improved sensory and aesthetic properties, more particularly spreadability, consistency and richness.

[0014] However, the worldwide marketing of such mixtures of saturated, cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched hydrocarbons containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms faces customs restrictions (Directives 2008 / 118 / EC and 2003 / 96 / EC) because such mixtures are subject to excise regulations in Europe, being included in the same category as motor fuels or heating fuels. In order to avoid this restriction imposed on emollient mixtures, it has been demonstrated that said mixtures must contain a weight content of saturated, cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched hydrocarbons containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms of not more than 70%. do. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0015] Therefore, - retains its organoleptic properties upon its storage at various temperatures (25°C and 45°C) for a defined period (3 months), and more particularly remains a single phase transparent, colorless and odorless after such storage conditions; and its incorporation into cosmetic or dermocosmetic formulations makes it possible to improve their sensory properties, and - There is a need to develop emollients, the composition of which does not involve tariff classifications requiring the payment of excise duties under the Excise Directives 2008 / 118 / EC and 2003 / 96 / EC. [Means for solving the problem]

[0016] The inventors therefore sought to develop new solutions to improve the sensory properties of oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions for topical use, not necessarily utilizing silicone derivatives, but utilizing chemical compositions of vegetable and / or biodegradable origin.

[0017] Thus, according to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is a composition (C1) which, per 100% of its weight, a) 30% by weight to 80% by weight, preferably 31% by weight to 80% by weight, more preferably 31% by weight to 50% by weight, - Formula (I): CH 3 -(CH 2 ) x1 -C(=O)-O-CH 2 -CH[OC(=O)-(CH 2 ) x2 -CH 3 ]-CH 2 -OC(=O)-(CH 2 ) x3 -CH 3 (I) (In the formula, x 1 , x 2 and x 3 represents an integer between 6 and 8) Compounds of the formula: - Formula (II): RC(=O)-O-R' (II) (In the formula, RC(=O) represents an acyl group containing 8 to 10 carbon atoms, and R' represents an alkyl group containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms. Compound At least one ester selected from the group consisting of: b) from 20% to 70% by weight, preferably from 20% to 69% by weight, even more particularly from 50% to 69% by weight, of at least one mixture (M1) of hydrocarbons, at least 94% by weight of which contains from 15 to 19 carbon atoms; The composition (C1) comprises:

[0018] -x 1 , x 2 and x 3 may be the same or different, - the acyl and alkyl groups may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and It should be noted that the hydrocarbons of the mixture (M1) may be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched.

[0019] Optionally, the composition (C1) according to the invention has the following characteristics: In formula (I), x 1 , x 2 and x 3 represent the same integer equal to 6, 7 or 8, In formula (I), x 1 , x 2 and x 3 represents the same integer equal to 6 may exhibit one or more of the following: According to this particular embodiment, formula (I) represents glyceryl trioctanoate (CAS number=538-23-8), in which x 1 , x 2 and x 3 represents the same integer equal to 8. According to this particular embodiment, formula (I) represents glyceryl tridecanoate (CAS number=621-71-6), composition (C1) comprises a mixture of two compounds of formula (I), preferably a mixture of glyceryl trioctanoate and glyceryl tridecanoate, and more preferentially a mixture of equal weights of glyceryl trioctanoate and glyceryl tridecanoate, In formula (II), RC(=O) represents a saturated and linear acyl group containing 8 to 10 carbon atoms, in formula (II), R' represents a saturated and linear alkyl group containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 3 to 18 carbon atoms and even more preferentially from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, The compound of formula (II) may be selected from the group consisting of ethyl octanoate, propyl octanoate, isopropyl octanoate, butyl octanoate, pentyl octanoate, hexyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, nonyl octanoate, decyl octanoate, undecyl octanoate, dodecyl octanoate, tetradecyl octanoate, hexadecyl octanoate, octadecyl octanoate, ethyl nonanoate, propyl nonanoate, isopropyl nonanoate, butyl nonanoate, pentyl nonanoate, hexyl nonanoate, octyl nonanoate, nonyl nonanoate, decyl nonanoate, undecyl nonanoate, dodecyl nonanoate, tetradecyl nonanoate, hexadecyl nonanoate, octadecyl nonanoate, ethyl decanoate, propyl decanoate, isopropyl decanoate, butyl decanoate, pentyl decanoate, hexyl decanoate, octyl decanoate, nonyl decanoate, decyl decanoate, undecyl decanoate, dodecyl decanoate, tetradecyl decanoate, hexadecyl decanoate or octadecyl decanoate; In formula (II), RC(=O) represents a saturated or linear acyl group containing 8 to 10 carbon atoms, and R' represents a saturated or linear alkyl group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, in formula (II), RC(=O) represents saturated and linear acyl radicals selected from the group consisting of octanoyl, nonanoyl and decanoyl radicals, and R' represents saturated and linear alkyl radicals selected from the group consisting of n-octyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl and n-octadecyl radicals, formula (II) represents one of the elements selected from the members of the group consisting of octyl octanoate, nonyl octanoate, decyl octanoate, undecyl octanoate, dodecyl octanoate, tetradecyl octanoate, hexadecyl octanoate, octadecyl octanoate, octyl decanoate, nonyl decanoate, decyl decanoate, undecyl decanoate, dodecyl decanoate, tetradecyl decanoate, hexadecyl decanoate and octadecyl decanoate, - formula (II) represents the product of an esterification reaction between an equimolar mixture of octanoic and decanoic acids with coconut alcohol, - formula (II) represents the product sold under the INCI name Coco-caprylate / caprate (CAS number = 95912-86-0), - said mixture (M1) comprises, per 100% of its weight, a proportion by weight of branched alkanes of ≥80% and ≤100%, preferably ≥90%, a proportion by weight of linear alkanes of ≥0% and ≤15%, preferably ≤10%, and a proportion by weight of cycloalkanes of ≥0% and ≤5%, preferably ≤1%, said mixture (M1) contains, per 100% by weight: 3.7% linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; 96% isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; 0.3% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; A mixture of saturated hydrocarbons sold under the brand name Emogreen™ L15, comprising: said mixture (M1) contains, per 100% by weight: 3.8% linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; 96.2% isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; less than 0.1% by weight of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; A mixture of saturated hydrocarbons sold under the brand name Emogreen™ L19, comprising: - said mixture (M1) is likewise a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons sold under the brand name Emogreen™ L19, containing, per 100% of its weight, 15% to 20% by weight of alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), 70% to 75% by weight of alkanes containing 18 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) and 4% to 6% by weight of alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes); DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0020] Within the meaning of the present invention, "coconut alcohol" is understood to mean the hydrogenation product of the fatty acid mixture originating from the saponification of coconut oil, which, per 100% of its weight, - 5% to 10% by weight of octanoic acid, - 5% to 10% by weight of decanoic acid, - 43% to 53% by weight of dodecanoic acid, - 15% to 21% by weight of tetradecanoic acid, - 7% to 21% by weight of hexadecanoic acid, - 2% to 4% by weight of octadecanoic acid Includes.

[0021] Within the meaning of the present invention, the mixture (M 1 ) and containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms means more particularly a member selected from the group consisting of n-pentadecane, n-hexadecane, n-heptadecane, n-octadecane and n-nonadecane.

[0022] Within the meaning of the present invention, the mixture (M 1) and containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms means more particularly members selected from the group consisting of 2-methyltetradecane (or isopentadecane), 2-methylpentadecane (or isohexadecane), 2-methylhexadecane (or isoheptadecane), 2-methylheptadecane (or isooctadecane) and 2-methyloctadecane (or isononadecane).

[0023] Within the meaning of the present invention, the mixture (M 1 ) and containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms means more particularly a saturated hydrocarbon containing at least one saturated cyclic hydrocarbon group optionally substituted by one or more linear or branched alkyl groups.

[0024] It should be noted that the composition (C1) as defined above, which is the subject of the present invention, can be prepared by mixing at least one ester selected from the group consisting of the compounds of formula (I) and (II) with the mixture (M1) as defined above, under mechanical stirring with an anchor or turbine type rotor at a temperature between 20°C and 60°C and at a speed between 20 rpm and 500 rpm.

[0025] Another subject of the invention is a composition (E1) for topical use, present in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising, per 100% of its weight: a) from 50% to 90% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight and even more preferentially from 70% to 90% by weight of a cosmetically acceptable aqueous phase (A1), b) from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight and even more preferentially from 10% to 30% by weight of a fatty phase (G1), which, per 100% of its weight, b 11 ) 10% by weight to 80% by weight, preferably 10% by weight to 70% by weight of the composition according to the present invention (C 1 ), b 12) 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably 1% to 15%, of at least one surfactant (S1) of the oil-in-water type, b 13 ) 0% by weight to 89.5% by weight of the composition (C 1 At least one oil and / or one wax having a composition different from that of b 11 ), b 12 ) and b 13 The sum of the weight percentages of the fatty phase (G1) is equal to 100% of the fatty phase (G1). The composition (E1) is characterized by comprising:

[0026] The expression "topical use" used in the definition of composition (E1) present in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion as defined above means that said composition is applied by application to the skin, hair, scalp or mucous membranes, whether it is a direct application, in the case of a cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition, or an indirect application, in the case of a personal hygiene product, for example in the form of a textile or paper wipe, or a health product intended to come into contact with the skin or mucous membranes.

[0027] The aqueous phase (A) of composition (E1) is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. 1The expression "cosmetically acceptable" as used in the definition of (1) means any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with various parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and genitals) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, exclusively and mainly with a view to cleaning, flavoring, changing the appearance and / or correcting body odor and / or protecting or keeping well, in accordance with European Economic Community Council Directive 76 / 768 / EEC of July 27, 1976, as amended by Directive 93 / 35 / EEC of June 14, 1993. The cosmetically acceptable medium of such compositions, which are a subject of the present invention, may conventionally contain water, one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents. The cosmetically acceptable solvent may be more particularly selected from polyhydric alcohols, such as glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol or water-soluble alcohols.

[0028] Within the meaning of the present invention, "oil" present in the fatty phase (G1) of composition (E1) present in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion as defined above means a chemical substance or mixture of chemical substances that is insoluble in water and that exists with liquid appearance at a temperature of 25° C.

[0029] Within the meaning of the present invention, "wax" present in the fatty phase (G1) of composition (E1) present in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion as defined above means a chemical substance or mixture of chemical substances that is insoluble in water and that exists with a solid appearance at a temperature of 45° C.

[0030] Within the meaning of the present invention, the "oil-in-water surfactant" (S1) present in the fatty phase (G1) of the composition (E1) present in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion as defined above refers to the continuous aqueous phase (A 1 ) means a chemical substance or a mixture of chemical substances capable of stabilizing the droplets of said fatty phase (G1) in a dispersed state in the aqueous dispersion.

[0031] The oil-in-water surfactants (S1) present in the fatty phase (G1) of the oil-in-water emulsion (E1) defined above can be, for example: - polysorbates resulting from an ethoxylation reaction between one molar equivalent of a sorbitan ester and from 5 to 20 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide, more particularly between one molar equivalent of sorbitan laurate, or sorbitan palmitate, or sorbitan stearate, or sorbitan isostearate, or sorbitan oleate, and from 5 to 20 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide; - products resulting from the ethoxylation reaction between 1 molar equivalent of a fatty acid, such as palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, etc., and 5 to 40 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide; - products resulting from an esterification reaction between fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, etc., and 4 to 20 molar equivalents, more particularly 3 to 10 molar equivalents, of glycerol; may be mentioned.

[0032] Within the meaning of the present invention, "fatty phase (G1)" means a fatty substance or a mixture of fatty substances that is insoluble in water and / or in a mixture of water and a polar solvent. Such a "fatty phase" may contain oils and / or waxes as defined above that do not meet the definition of composition (C1). Constituents of the fatty phase (G1) include, in particular: oils of animal origin, such as squalene or squalane, - vegetable oils, such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, mentha oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kukui oil, passionflower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter Turmeric oil, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sissymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula oil, sesame oil, meadowsweet oil, macadamia, kiwi oil, borage oil, blackcurrant seed oil, coffee oil, pistachio oil, peach kernel oil, raspberry seed oil, strawberry seed oil, melon oil, blueberry seed oil, argan oil, oily plum extract, pomegranate oil, papaya oil, coconut milk oil, oils obtained from flowers or vegetables, - ethoxylated vegetable oils, synthetic oils, such as fatty acid esters which do not correspond to the definition of formula (II), for example butyl myristate, propyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate, esters derived from lanolinic acid, such as isopropyl lanolate or isocetyl lanolate, glycerol triheptanoate, alkyl benzoates, hydrogenated oils, poly-α-olefins, polyolefins, such as polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene or hydrogenated polyisobutene, sold in France under the name Parleam-Polysynlane™ by Ets B. Rossow et Cie and described in Michel and Irene Ash; Thesaurus of Chemical Products, Chemical Publishing Co. Inc., 1986, Volume I, page 211 (ISBN 0 7131 3603 0) cited in Silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxane, polymethylphenylsiloxane, amine-modified silicones, fatty acid-modified silicones, alcohol-modified silicones, alcohol- and fatty acid-modified silicones, polyether-modified silicones, epoxy-modified silicones, fluorinated-group-modified silicones, alkyl-group-modified cyclic silicones and silicones; - Waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, japan wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, jojoba wax, blackcurrant flower wax, daffodil flower wax , orange blossom wax, orange wax, rice wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin wax, ozokerite, polyethylene wax, silicone wax, vegetable wax, fatty alcohols and fatty acids that are solid at ambient temperature, glycerides that are solid at ambient temperature may be mentioned.

[0033] According to a particular embodiment, in the composition (E1) that is the subject of the present invention, the fatty phase (G1) comprises, per 100% of its own weight: b 14 ) 5% to 30% by weight, more particularly 5% to 25% by weight, even more particularly 10% to 25% by weight of at least one agent for protection against the ultraviolet rays of the sun. b 11 ), b 12 ), b 13 ) and b 14 ) is equal to 100% of the fatty phase (G1).

[0034] The agent for protecting against the ultraviolet rays of the sun will preferably be selected from the members of the group consisting of titanium dioxide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid hexyl ester, 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris[4-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine and 2-ethylhexyldimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidine propionate.

[0035] Agents for protection against the ultraviolet rays of the sun mean, in particular in the definition of the composition for topical use (E1) that is the subject of the present invention, present in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, pigments, organic sunscreens and inorganic sunscreens.

[0036] Examples of pigments used as agents for protection against the sun's UV rays are titanium dioxide, brown, yellow, black or red iron oxide or also white or colored pearlescent pigments, such as titanium dioxide-coated mica.

[0037] Examples of organic sunscreens used as agents to protect against the sun's ultraviolet rays are: from the class of derivatives of benzoic acid, such as p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), in particular the monoglycerol ester of PABA, the ethyl ester of N,N-propoxy-PABA, the ethyl ester of N,N-diethoxy-PABA, the ethyl ester of N,N-dimethyl-PABA, the methyl ester of N,N-dimethyl-PABA and the butyl ester of N,N-dimethyl-PABA; - from the class of derivatives of anthranilic acid, such as homomenthyl N-acetylanthranilate, - derivatives of salicylic acid, such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropanol phenyl salicylate; from the class of derivatives of cinnamic acid, such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl 4-isopropyl cinnamate, methyl 2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, propyl p-methoxy cinnamate, isopropyl p-methoxy cinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxy cinnamate, octyl p-methoxy cinnamate (2-ethylhexyl p-methoxy cinnamate), 2-ethoxyethyl p-methoxy cinnamate, cyclohexyl p-methoxy cinnamate, ethyl α-cyano-β-phenyl cinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-β-phenyl cinnamate, glyceryl di-p-methoxy mono-2-ethylhexanoyl cinnamate, - Derivatives of benzophenone, e.g. 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone Non, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl 4'-phenylbenzophenone-2-carboxylate, 2-hydroxy-4-(n-octyloxy)benzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzophenone, 3-4'-Methylbenzylidene-d,l-camphor, 3-benzylidene-d,l-camphor, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate, - derivatives of sulfonic acids, such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, derivatives of triazines, such as hydroxyphenyltriazine, ethylhexyloxyhydroxyphenyl-4-methoxyphenyltriazine, 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, 4,4-((6-(((1,1-dimethylethyl)amino)carbonyl)phenyl)amino)-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyldiimino)bis(2-ethylhexyl) ester of benzoic acid, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-t-octylphenyl)benzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl ) Benzotriazole, dibenzoazine, dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4''-t-butylbenzoylmethane, 5-(3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene)-3-pentan-2-one, 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid hexyl ester, 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris[4-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine, 2-ethylhexyldimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidinepropionate, derivatives of diphenylacrylate such as 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate or ethyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate, - those belonging to the class of polysiloxanes, for example benzylidene siloxane malonate.

[0038] Examples of inorganic sunscreens used as agents for protection against the ultraviolet rays of the sun are titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow, red or black iron oxide, chromium oxide. These inorganic screening agents may be micronized or not, may be surface-treated or not, and may optionally be presented in the form of an aqueous or oily predispersion.

[0039] According to another aspect, the subject of the invention is a composition (E1) according to the invention for protecting the human skin against the adverse effects, and more particularly against redness, of exposure to UV radiation from the sun.

[0040] According to another aspect, the subject of the invention is a composition (E1) according to the invention for treating or delaying adverse changes to the skin resulting from burns, sunburn, erythema or cancer.

[0041] According to a more particular embodiment, the subject of the present invention is a fatty phase (G1) which, per 100% of its own weight, contains at least b 14 ) 5% to 15% by weight of at least one color pigment (CP) b 11 ), b 12 ), b 13 ) and b 14 ) is equal to 100% of the fatty phase (G1).

[0042] Another subject of the invention is a composition for topical use, which is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion. Composition (E2), per 100% by weight thereof: a) from 60% to 98% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, preferentially from 60% to 90% by weight and even more preferentially from 60% to 85% by weight of a cosmetically acceptable aqueous phase (A2), b) from 2% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 40% by weight and even more preferentially from 15% to 40% by weight of a fatty phase (G2), per 100% of its weight, b 21 ) 10% to 80% by weight, preferably 10% to 70% by weight, of the composition (C ) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3. 1 ), b 22 ) 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably 1% to 15% by weight, of at least one surfactant (S2) of the water-in-oil type, b 23 ) 0% by weight to 89.5% by weight of the composition (C 1 At least one oil and / or one wax having a composition different from that of b 21 ), b 22 ) and b 23 The sum of the weight percentages of the fatty phase (G2) is equal to 100% of the fatty phase (G2). The composition (E2) is characterized by comprising:

[0043] Within the meaning of the present invention, the fatty phase (G2) of the composition (E2) is present in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion as defined above. 2 "Oil" in the present specification means a chemical substance or mixture of chemical substances that is insoluble in water and that exists in liquid form at a temperature of 25° C.

[0044] Within the meaning of the present invention, the fatty phase (G2) of the composition (E2) is present in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion as defined above. 2 "Wax" present in the present specification means a chemical substance or mixture of chemical substances that is insoluble in water and that exists in solid appearance at a temperature of 45°C.

[0045] Water-in-oil emulsifying surfactants (S2) which can be used in connection with the present invention are, in particular, lipoamino acids and their salts, lipopeptides and their salts, sorbitan esters, such as sorbitan laurate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan isostearate, polyglycerol esters, such as glycerol laurate, glycerol palmitate, glycerol stearate, glycerol oleate, glycerol sesquioleate, glycerol trioleate, glycerol isostearate, diglycerol laurate, diglycerol palmitate, diglycerol stearate, diglycerol oleate, diglycerol sesquioleate, di ... ol trioleate, diglycerol isostearate, etc., alkyl polyglycosides, compositions of alkyl polyglycosides with fatty alcohols, esters of polyglycerol or polyglycol or polyols, for example polyhydroxystearates of polyglycols or polyglycerols, for example the products called Hypermer® B246, Arlacel® P135, sold by Uniqema, the products called Dehymuls® PGPH, sold by Cognis, the products called Decaglyn® 5HS, sold by Nikko, polyethylene glycol-alkyl glycol copolymers, for example the PEG-45 dodecyl glycol copolymer, for example the products called Elfacos, sold by Akzo. Mention may be made of the products sold under the name ST9®, sucrose esters, ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated methyl glucoside esters, ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, anionic emulsifiers such as decyl phosphate or cetearyl sulfate, aluminum polyoxystearates such as the products sold under the name Manalox® by Rhodia, magnesium stearate, aluminum stearate.

[0046] According to a more specific embodiment, the water-in-oil emulsifier (S2) is a combination of alkyl polyglycosides. The composition is selected from the group consisting of compositions of alkyl polyglycosides and fatty alcohols, esters of polyglycerol, esters of alkoxylated polyglycerol, polyhydroxystearates of polyglycols, polyhydroxystearates of polyglycerols, polyhydroxystearates of alkoxylated polyglycerols, and polyethylene glycol-alkyl glycol copolymers.

[0047] Within the meaning of the present invention, "cosmetically acceptable aqueous phase (A2)" means an aqueous phase having the same definition as aqueous phase (A1).

[0048] According to a particular embodiment, in the composition (E1) that is the subject of the present invention, the fatty phase (G2) comprises, per 100% of its own weight: b 24 ) 5% to 30% by weight, more particularly 5% to 25% by weight, even more particularly 10% to 25% by weight of at least one agent for protection against the ultraviolet rays of the sun. b 21 ), b 22 ), b 23 ) and b 24 ) is equal to 100% of the fatty phase (G2).

[0049] The agent for protecting against the ultraviolet rays of the sun will preferably be selected from the members of the group consisting of titanium dioxide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid hexyl ester, 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris[4-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine and 2-ethylhexyldimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidine propionate.

[0050] According to another aspect, the subject of the invention is a composition (E2) according to the invention for protecting the human skin against the adverse effects, and more particularly against redness, of exposure to UV radiation from the sun.

[0051] According to another aspect, the subject of the invention is a composition (E2) according to the invention for treating or delaying adverse changes to the skin resulting from burns, sunburn, erythema or cancer.

[0052] According to a more particular embodiment, the subject of the present invention is a fatty phase (G2) which, per 100% of its own weight, contains at least b 24 ) 5% to 15% by weight of at least one color pigment (CP) b 21 ), b 22 ), b 23 ) and b 24 ) is a composition (E2) as defined above, characterized in that the sum of the proportions by weight of the fatty phase (G2) is equal to 100%.

[0053] Preferably, the colored pigment (CP) is selected from the members of the group consisting of inorganic pigments, organic pigments and pearlescent pigments.

[0054] If the colour pigment (CP) is an inorganic pigment, it will preferably be selected from a member of the group consisting of optionally surface-treated titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, optionally hydrated chromium oxide, ferric blue.

[0055] When the color pigment (CP) is an organic pigment, it will preferably be selected from the members of the group consisting of D&C red pigments, D&C orange pigments, D&C yellow pigments, carbon black, cochineal carmine lakes.

[0056] When the colored pigment (CP) is a pearlescent pigment, it is preferably a white pearlescent pigment. For example, titanium oxide coated mica with iron oxide, titanium oxide coated mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium oxide coated mica with organic pigments, bismuth oxychloride based pigments, and the like.

[0057] Another subject of the invention is a method of making up, characterized in that it comprises a step of application to said human skin of a composition (E2) as defined above. The step of application of a composition for topical use (F) to the skin can be carried out with the fingers or with an applicator, such as a brush or sponge.

[0058] According to another aspect, another subject of the invention is a composition (E2) for topical use, present in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion as defined above, characterized in that the aqueous phase (A2) comprises, per 100% of its own weight, between 0.5% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight and even more preferentially between 0.5% and 3% by weight of at least one crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte polymer (P).

[0059] By crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) is meant, in the definition of the composition for topical use (E2) and in the subject matter of the present invention, which is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, a non-linear crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte which is insoluble in water but exists in the form of a three-dimensional network which is swellable in water, resulting in the formation of a chemical gel.

[0060] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) present in composition (E2) comprises a proportion of at least 25 mol % of monomer units deriving from 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in the free acid form or in partial or complete salified form.

[0061] According to a specific embodiment, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) present in the composition (E2) is present in an amount per 100 mol %: (a1) - from 25 mol % to 100 mol % of monomer units derived from 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in the free acid form or in the form of a partial or complete salt, (a2) - optionally a proportion of more than 0 mol% and not more than 75 mol% of monomer units resulting from at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, methacrylamide or N-isopropylacrylamide, (a3) - optionally a proportion of more than 0 mol % and not more than 20 mol %, more particularly more than 0 mol % and not more than 15 mol %, even more particularly more than 0 mol % and not more than 10 mol % of monomer units obtained from at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylate and vinylpyrrolidone, (a4) - optionally monomer units resulting from at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, 2-carboxyethylacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and 3-methyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]butanoic acid in a proportion of more than 0 mol % and not more than 75 mol % of the carboxylic acid functions of said monomers in the free acid form, in partial or complete salified form, (a5)-Optionally, a proportion of more than 0 mol% and not more than 5 mol% of formula (1): [ka] (wherein R represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer of 0 or more and 20 or less). At least one monomer of (a6) - a proportion of more than 0 mol % and not more than 1 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one diethylenic or polyethylenic crosslinking monomer (AR) and the sum of said molar proportions of monomer units a1), a2), a3), a4), a5) and a6) is equal to 100 mol %.

[0062] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "salt formation" refers to the fact that the acid functions present in the monomers are in anionic form and are associated in salt form with cations, in particular alkali metal salts, such as salts of sodium or potassium cations, or salts of nitrogen-containing basic cations, such as ammonium salts, lysine salts or monoethanolamine (HOCH 2 -CH 2 -NH 4 + ) indicates that it is associated with a salt.

[0063] They are preferably sodium or ammonium salts. By at least one diethylenic or polyethylenic crosslinking monomer (AR) is meant in particular in the definition of the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) a monomer selected from the members of the group consisting of methylene bis(acrylamide), ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, diallyloxyacetic acid or one of its salts, such as sodium diallyloxyacetate or a mixture of these compounds, more particularly a monomer selected from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate or methylene bis(acrylamide) or a mixture of these compounds.

[0064] According to another particular aspect of the invention, the composition (E2) for topical use, present in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, is characterized in that said crosslinking monomer (AR) as defined above is utilized in a molar proportion less than or equal to 0.5%, more particularly less than or equal to 0.25%, very particularly less than or equal to 0.1%, and more particularly greater than or equal to 0.005 mol %.

[0065] The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) utilized in composition (E2) may also contain various additives such as complexing agents, transport agents, chain limiters, and the like.

[0066] The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) used in composition (E2) can be prepared by radical polymerization processes known to those skilled in the art, such as solution polymerization, suspension polymerization, inverse suspension polymerization, emulsion polymerization, inverse emulsion polymerization, polymerization in a solvent medium, etc., followed by the realization of a precipitation step of the polymer formed.

[0067] According to a more specific embodiment, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) utilized in the composition (E2) comprised may be prepared by a polymerization process in a solvent medium followed by a precipitation step of the formed polymer or by an inverse emulsion polymerization, optionally followed by a concentration and / or atomization step.

[0068] According to a more specific embodiment, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) used in the composition (E2) can be prepared according to one of the processes described above and can include the use of a transfer agent or chain limiting agent. The transfer agent or chain limiting agent is more particularly selected from the group consisting of sodium hypophosphite, low molecular weight alcohols such as methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, isopropanol or butanol, thiols such as 2-mercaptoethanol, transfer agents containing sulfate functional groups such as sodium methallylsulfonate, mixtures of said transfer agents. The transfer agent or chain limiting agent is more particularly used in a molar proportion of 0.001 mol% to 1 mol%, more particularly 0.001 mol% to 0.5 mol%, very particularly 0.001 mol% to 0.1 mol%, expressed based on the total number of moles of monomers used.

[0069] According to another specific embodiment of the present invention, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) is a homopolymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or completely salted in the form of a sodium salt or an ammonium salt crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); a homopolymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or completely salted in the form of a sodium salt or an ammonium salt crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); copolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) partially or completely salted in the form of a sodium salt or an ammonium salt in a molar ratio (γ) / (δ) of 30 / 70 or more and 90 / 10 or less, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide), and acrylic acid (δ) partially or completely salted in the form of a sodium salt; a copolymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) partially or completely salted in the form of a sodium salt in a molar ratio (γ) / (δ) of 40 / 60 or more and 90 / 10 or less, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); a copolymer of acrylic acid (δ) partially or completely salted in the form of a sodium salt in a molar ratio (γ) / (ε) of 30 / 70 or more and 90 / 10 or less, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); Copolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) partially or completely converted into a sodium salt and acrylamide (ε); copolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) partially or completely converted into a sodium salt and hydroxyethyl acrylate (ζ) in a molar ratio (γ) / (ζ) of 30 / 70 or more and 90 / 10 or less, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide);Terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or completely salted in the form of a sodium salt or ammonium salt, acrylamide, and acrylic acid partially or completely salted in the form of a sodium salt or ammonium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or completely salted in the form of a sodium salt or ammonium salt in a molar proportion of 30% or more and 45% or less, acrylamide in a molar proportion of 45% or more and 68% or less, and acrylamide in a molar proportion of 2% or more and 10% or less in the form of a sodium salt or ammonium salt in a molar proportion of 2% or more and 10% or less terpolymers of acrylic acid partially or completely salted in the form of a sodium salt and / or ammonium salt crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or completely salted in the form of a sodium salt or ammonium salt in a molar proportion of 30% or more and 45% or less, acrylamide in a molar proportion of 47% or more and 68% or less, and acrylic acid partially or completely salted in the form of a sodium salt or ammonium salt in a molar proportion of 2% or more and 8% or less, with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); sodium salts in a molar proportion of 60% or more and 80% or less; Terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or completely salted in the form or ammonium salt, 15% or more and 39.5% or less by mole of N,N-dimethylacrylamide, 0.5% or more and 5% or less by mole of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide), 60% or more and 80% or less by mole of sodium salt or ammonia salt, It is an element of the group consisting of tetrapolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or completely salified in the form of its nium salt, with a molar proportion of ≧15% and ≦39% of N,N-dimethylacrylamide, with a molar proportion of ≧0.5% and ≦2.5% of lauryl methacrylate, with a molar proportion of ≧0.5% and ≦2.5% of stearyl methacrylate, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide).

[0070] According to a specific embodiment, the composition (E2) comprises a water-in-oil emulsifying surfactant (S2) of formula (III): R 1 -O-(G) x -H (III) (In the formula, x represents a decimal number of 1.05 to 5, G represents a residue of a reducing sugar, and R 1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon group containing 12 to 36 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. wherein said composition (CA1) is represented by the formula (III 1 ), (III 2 ), (III 3 ), (III 4 ) and (III 5 ): R 1 -O-(G) 1 -H (III 1 ) R 1 -O-(G)2 -H (III 2 ) R 1 -O-(G) 3 -H (III 3 ) R 1 -O-(G) 4 -H (III 4 ) R 1 -O-(G) 5 -H (III 5 ) A mixture of compounds represented by, each molar ratio a 1 , a 2 , a 3 , a 4 and a 5 , wherein - sum a 1 +a 2 +a 3 +a 4 +a 5 is equal to 1, and - sum a 1 +2a 2 +3a 3 +4a 4 +5a 5 is equal to x for each molar ratio a 1 , a 2 , a 3 , a 4 and a 5 characterized by consisting of a mixture in.

[0071] A saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon group containing 12 to 36 carbon atoms and optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups is the group R in formula (III) defined above 1 with respect to - saturated and linear alkyl groups such as n-dodecyl, n-tridecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-pentadecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-heptadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-nonadecyl, n-eicosyl or n-docosyl, unsaturated and linear radicals, such as dodecenyl, tridecenyl, tetradecenyl, pentadecenyl, hexadecenyl, heptadecenyl, octadecenyl, nonadecenyl, eicosaenyl, docosenyl, 4-dodecenyl or 5-dodecenyl; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic radicals containing 12 to 36 carbon atoms, substituted by one or two hydroxyl groups, such as hydroxydodecyl, hydroxytetradecyl, hydroxyhexadecyl, hydroxyoctadecyl, hydroxyeicosyl or hydroxydocosyl radicals, for example the 12-hydroxyoctadecyl radical, - Formula (2): (CH 3 )(CH 3 )CH-(CH 2 ) r -CH 2 -OH (2) (In the formula, r represents an integer of 8 to 20.) groups derived from isoalkanols such as isodecyl, isoundecyl, isododecyl, isotridecyl, isotetradecyl, isopentadecyl, isohexadecyl, an isopentadecyl group, an isooctadecyl group, an isononadecyl group, an isoeicosyl group or an isodocosyl group; - Formula (3): CH(C s H 2s+1 )(C t H 2t+1 )-CH 2 -OH (3) (wherein t is an integer from 6 to 18, s is an integer from 4 to 18, and the sum s+t is 10 or more and 22 or less). branched alkyl groups derived from Guerbet alcohols, such as 2-butyloctyl, 2-butyldecyl, 2-hexyloctyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 2-decyltetradecyl, 2-dodecylhexadecyl or 2-tetradecyloctadecyl groups; means...

[0072] According to a particular embodiment, in the definition of formula (III) defined above, R 1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon group containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0073] The reducing sugar in the definition of formula (III) defined above is defined as: It means a sugar derivative that does not exhibit in its structure a defined glycosidic bond between the anomeric carbon and the oxygen of the acetal group, as defined in Wiley & Sons, 1990. Oligomeric Structure (G) x can exist in any isomeric form, whether optical, geometric or positional isomerism, and it can also represent mixtures of isomers.

[0074] In formula (II) defined above, the group R 1 -O- is attached to G through the anomeric carbon of the sugar residue to form an acetal functional group.

[0075] According to a particular embodiment, in the definition of formula (III) defined above, G represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran or talose, and more particularly G represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the residues of glucose, xylose and arabinose.

[0076] According to an even more specific embodiment, the composition for topical use (E 2 In the definition of formula (III) representing composition (CA1) contained in and the subject matter of the present invention, x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 1.25 and less than or equal to 2.0.

[0077] According to an even more specific embodiment, in the definition of formula (III) defined above, R 1 represents a group selected from at least one member of the group consisting of n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl, n-docosyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, and 2-decyltetradecyl; G represents a residue of a reducing sugar selected from residues of glucose and xylose; and x represents a decimal fraction greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5.

[0078] According to a specific embodiment, the composition (E2) comprises a water-in-oil emulsifying surfactant (S2) of formula (III): R 1 -O-(G) x -H (III) (In the formula, x represents a decimal number of 1.05 to 2.5, G represents a xylose residue, and R 1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl group) and at least one composition (CA1) of alkyl polyglycosides represented by the formula (C 1 ) is represented by the formula (III 1 ), (III 2 ), (III 3 ), (III 4 ) and (III 5 ): R 1 -O-(G) 1 -H (III 1 ) R 1 -O-(G) 2 -H (III 2 ) R 1 -O-(G) 3 -H (III 3 ) R 1 -O-(G) 4 -H (III 4 ) R 1 -O-(G) 5-H (III 5 ) A mixture of compounds represented by, each molar ratio a 1 、a 2 、a 3 、a 4 and a 5 wherein, - and a 1 +a 2 +a 3 +a 4 +a 5 is equal to 1, and - and a 1 +2a 2 +3a 3 +4a 4 +5a 5 is equal to x for each molar ratio a 1 、a 2 、a 3 、a 4 and a 5 characterized by consisting of a mixture in.

[0079] "G represents a xylose residue" is understood to mean "G represents an α,β-D-xylopyranosyl group obtained from the elimination of the hemiacetal hydroxyl group of xylosyl or β-D-xylopyranose".

[0080] According to a specific embodiment, the composition (E2) defined above is such that the emulsifier (S2) is, per 100% of its weight, - A composition (CA1) of alkyl polyglycoside of 10% to 50% by weight, preferably 15% to 40% by weight, and even more preferably 20% to 30% by weight, and - At least one of formula (IV) of 90% to 50% by weight, preferably 85% to 60% by weight, and even more preferably 80% to 70% by weight R’ 1 -OH (IV) (wherein R’ 1 is R 1represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon group having 12 to 36 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, which may be the same or different from with fatty alcohols The composition (CA2) comprises:

[0081] According to a specific embodiment, the definition of formula (III) representing composition (CA1) contained in composition (CA2) includes R 1 represents a group selected from n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl, n-docosyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, and 2-decyltetradecyl; G represents a residue of a reducing sugar selected from residues of glucose and xylose; and x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5.

[0082] According to a more specific embodiment, in the definition of formula (III) representing composition (CA1) contained in composition (CA2), R 1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl group, G represents a xylose residue, and x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5.

[0083] According to a more particular embodiment, in the definition of the fatty alcohol of formula (IV) defined above, R' 1 represents a group selected from an n-dodecyl group, an n-tetradecyl group, an n-hexadecyl group, an n-octadecyl group, an n-eicosyl group, an n-docosyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, a 2-octyldecyl group, a 2-hexyldodecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, and a 2-decyltetradecyl group; R' 1 stands very particularly for the 2-octyldodecyl radical.

[0084] According to a particular embodiment, the composition (E2) defined above is characterized in that said emulsifier (S2) is Per 100% of its weight, - 10% to 50% by weight of a composition (CA1) of alkyl polyglycosides, - 90% to 50% by weight of at least one compound of formula (IV): R' 1 -OH (IV) (In the formula, R' 1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl group) with fatty alcohols The composition (CA2) comprises:

[0085] According to a specific embodiment, the composition (E2) defined above comprises, per 100% of its weight, said emulsifier (S2): - 15% to 25% by weight of composition (CA1), - 55% to 65% by weight of formula (IV): R' 1 -OH (IV) (In the formula, R' 1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl group) at least one fatty alcohol of - 10% to 30% by weight of a compound of formula (V): [ka] (In the formula, y 2 represents an integer between 2 and 50, and R 4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, or an ethyl group; Z 2 is represented by formula (VI): [ka] (where y' 2 represents an integer of 0 or more and 10 or less, more particularly 1 or more and 10 or less, and Z' 2 represents a group of formula (VI) as defined above, where Z' 2 is Z 2 or a hydrogen atom) At least one polyhydroxystearate of polyglycol represented by The composition (CA3) comprises:

[0086] The composition (C) as defined above which is the subject of the present invention 1 ), (E1) and (E2) are intended for topical use and can be incorporated into any type of cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical preparation intended for topical use, or any type of carrier intended to be in contact with the skin (paper, wipes, textiles, transdermal patches, etc.).

[0087] The composition (C) as defined above which is the subject of the present invention 1 ), (E1) and (E2) can be packaged in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a "pump action spray" type device, in a device with an openwork wall such as a grating or in a device with a ball applicator (roll-on).

[0088] The composition (C) as defined above which is the subject of the present invention 1 ), (E1) and (E2) can be used as cleansing or make-up removing milks, as cleansing or make-up removing lotions, as foaming gels for the face or body, as shampoos for cleaning the hair and / or scalp, as conditioners for treating the hair and / or scalp, as foam bath additives, as creams for the care or protection of the face, hands and body, as milks or as lotions, for example as agents for protection against solar radiation, as self-tanning agents, as anti-ageing agents, as anti-wrinkle agents, as soothing agents or as moisturizers.

[0089] The composition (C) as defined above which is the subject of the present invention 1 ), (E1) and (E2) may additionally comprise excipients and / or active ingredients commonly employed in the field of topical preparations, in particular cosmetic, dermocosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermopharmaceutical preparations.

[0090] The composition (C) as defined above which is the subject of the present invention 1), (E1) and (E2) may additionally comprise one or more auxiliary compounds selected from foaming and / or cleansing surfactants, thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickening and / or gelling agents, stabilizers, film-forming compounds, solvents and cosolvents, hydrotropes, plasticizers, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, antioxidants, fragrances, essential oils, preservatives, conditioning agents, deodorants, bleaching agents intended for bleaching body hair and skin, active ingredients intended to contribute a treatment and / or protective action with respect to the skin or hair, sunscreens, inorganic fillers or pigments, particles intended to give a visual effect or to encapsulate active ingredients, exfoliant particles, texturizing agents, optical brighteners or insect repellents.

[0091] The composition (C 1 Examples of lathering and / or cleansing surfactants optionally present in (E1) and (E2) may include topically acceptable lathering and / or cleansing anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants commonly used in this area of ​​activity.

[0092] The composition (C 1), (E1) and (E2) may be combined with anionic foaming and / or cleaning surfactants, which may include alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, amine or amino alcohol salts of alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl amido sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amido sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl sarcosinates, acyl isethionates, N-acyltaurates, acyl lactylates, N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, N-acylated derivatives of peptides, N-acylated derivatives of proteins, or fatty acids.

[0093] The composition (C 1 The foaming and / or cleansing amphoteric surfactants optionally present in (E1) and (E2) may include alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.

[0094] The composition (C 1 The foaming and / or detersive cationic surfactants optionally present in (E1) and (E2) may in particular include quaternary ammonium derivatives.

[0095] The composition (C 1The non-ionic foaming and / or cleansing surfactants optionally present in (E1) and (E2) may more particularly include alkyl polyglycosides, castor oil derivatives, polysorbates, coconut amides, N-alkylamines, containing saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched aliphatic groups containing from 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0096] The composition (C 1 Examples of thickening and / or gelling surfactants optionally present in (E1) and (E2) include: - optionally alkoxylated fatty esters of alkyl polyglycosides, very particularly the ethoxylated esters of methyl polyglucosides, such as PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate, sold respectively under the names Glucamate® LT and Glucamate® DOE-120, alkoxylated fatty esters, such as PEG 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate sold under the name Crothix® DS53 or PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate sold under the name Antil® 141; carbamates of polyalkylene glycols containing fatty chains, such as PPG 14 laureth isofloryl dicarbamate sold under the name Elfacos® T211 or PPG 14 palmeth 60 hexyl dicarbamate sold under the name Elfacos® GT2125; may be mentioned.

[0097] The composition (C 1Examples of deodorants optionally present in (E1) and (E2) are alkali metal silicates, zinc salts such as zinc sulfate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride or zinc lactate, quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts or cetylpyridinium salts, glycerol derivatives such as glyceryl caprate, glyceryl caprylate and polyglyceryl caprate, 1,2-decanediol, 1,3-propanediol, salicylic acid, sodium bicarbonate, cyclodextrins, metallic zeolites, Triclosan™, aluminium bromohydrate, aluminium chlorohydrate, aluminium chloride, aluminium sulfate, aluminium zirconium chlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate. phosphate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum lactate, complexes of aluminum chlorohydrate with glycols, such as a complex of aluminum chlorohydrate with propylene glycol, a complex of aluminum dichlorohydrate with propylene glycol, a complex of aluminum sesquichlorohydrate with propylene glycol, a complex of aluminum chlorohydrate with polyethylene glycol, a complex of aluminum dichlorohydrate with polyethylene glycol or a complex of aluminum sesquichlorohydrate with polyethylene glycol.

[0098] The composition (C 1 Examples of antioxidants optionally present in (E1), (E2) and (E3) may include EDTA and its salts, citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as Dissolvine GL47S (INCI name: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate).

[0099] The composition (C 1), (E1) and (E2) may contain the following active ingredients: vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (for example retinyl palmitate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (for example ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (for example tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives), compounds exhibiting a soothing effect, in particular Sepicalm® S, allantoin and bisabolol, anti-inflammatory agents, compounds exhibiting a moisturizing effect, such as urea, a, hydroxyurea, glycerol glucoside, diglycerol glucoside, polyglyceryl glucoside, glycerol, diglycerol or xylityl polyglucoside sold under the brand name Aquaxyl®, plant extracts rich in polyphenols, e.g. grape extract, pine extract, wine extract or olive extract, compounds exhibiting slimming or lipolytic properties, e.g. caffeine or its derivatives, Adiposlim®, Adipoless® or fucoxanthin, N-acylated proteins, N-acylated peptides, e.g. Matrixil™, N-acylated amino acids, N-acylated partial protein hydrolysates, amino acids, peptides, total protein hydrolysates, soy extracts, e.g. Raffermine™, wheat extracts, e.g. Tensine™ or Gliadine™, plant extracts, e.g. tannin-rich plant extracts, isoflavone-rich plant extracts or terpene-rich plant extracts, extracts of freshwater or marine algae, extracts of marine plants, marine extracts in general, e.g. coral extracts, essential waxes, bacterial extracts, ceramides, lipid ... lipids, antimicrobial or purifying compounds such as Lipacide® C8G, Lipacide® UG, Sepicontrol® A5, Octirox® or Sensiva® SC50, energizing or stimulating compounds such as Physiogenyl® or panthenol and its derivatives, such as Sepicap® MP, anti-ageing active ingredients such as Sepilift® DPHP, Lipacide® PVB, Sepivinol®, Sepivital®,Manoliva™, Phyto-Age™, Timecode™ or Survicode™, anti-photoaging active ingredients, active ingredients which protect the integrity of the dermo-epidermal junction, active ingredients which increase the synthesis of extracellular matrix components such as collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycans, active ingredients which favour chemical cell communication such as cytokines or physical cell communication such as integrins, active ingredients which generate a "warming" sensation on the skin, such as activators of cutaneous microcirculation (e.g. nicotinic acid derivatives) or substances which generate a "cool" sensation on the skin (e.g. menthol and derivatives), active ingredients which improve cutaneous microcirculation, such as venotonic agents, excretory active ingredients, active ingredients with decongestant purpose, such as ginkgo, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, ruscus, hawthorn, Centella asiatica (Centella asiatica, Fucus, rosemary or willow extracts, skin tanning or browning agents such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, glyceraldehyde, alloxan, ninhydrin, etc., plant extracts such as redwoods of the genera Pterocarpus and Baphia, e.g. Pterocarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus or Baphia nitida nitida extracts, for example those described in European Patent No. 0 971 683, agents known for promoting and / or accelerating the tanning and / or browning of human skin and / or for pigmenting human skin, for example carotenoids (more particularly β-carotene and γ-carotene), a product containing carotenoids and vitamins E and K sold under the brand name "Carrot oil" by Provital (INCI name: Daucus carota, Carota), Helianthus Annuus sunflower oil), tyrosine and / or its derivatives known for their action in accelerating the tanning of human skin in combination with exposure to ultraviolet light, such as the product containing tyrosine and riboflavin (vitamin B) sold under the brand name "SunTan Accelerator™" by Provital, the complex of tyrosine and tyrosinase sold under the brand name "Zymo Tan Complex" by Zymo Line, the product containing acetyl tyrosine sold under the brand name MelanoBronze™ by Mibelle (INCI name: Acetyl Tyrosine, Italian Carrot Extract (Carrot)), Unipertan by Unipex A product sold under the brand name VEG-24 / 242 / 2002 (INCI Name: Butylene Glycol and Acetyl Tyrosine and Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein and Adenosine Triphosphate), a product containing pumpkin seed extract (or loofah oil) sold under the brand name "Try-Excell™" by Sederma (INCI Name: Oleoyl Tyrosine and Luffa Cylindrica (Seed) Oil and Oleic Acid), a product sold under the brand name "Actibronze™" by Alban Muller (INCI Name: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein and Acetyl Tyrosine and Copper Gluconate), a product sold under the brand name Tyrostan™ by Synerga (INCI Name: Potassium Caproyl Tyrosine), a product sold under the brand name Tyrosinol by Synerga (INCI Name: Sorbitan Isostearate, Glyceryl Oleate, Caproyl Tyrosine), Alban Peptides known for their melanogenesis activating effect, such as the product sold under the brand name InstaBronze™ by Muller (INCI name: dihydroxyacetone, acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) and the product sold under the brand name Tyrosilane by Exymol (INCI name: methylsilanol and acetyl tyrosine), e.g. Bronzing SF Peptide by Infinitec Activospowder (INCI name: dextran and octapeptide-5), a product containing acetyl hexapeptide-1 known for its α-MSH agonist action sold under the brand name Melitane (INCI name: glycerin and water and dextran and acetyl hexapeptide-1), a product sold under the brand name Melatimes Solutions™ by Lipotec (INCI name: butylene glycol, palmitoyl tripeptide-40), sugars and sugar derivatives, such as the product sold under the brand name Tanositol™ by Provital (INCI name: inositol), a product containing oligosaccharides of marine origin (guluronic and mannuronic acids chelated with magnesium and manganese ions) sold under the brand name Thalitan™ (or Phycosaccharide™ AG) by Codif International (INCI name: water and hydrolyzed algin (Laminaria digitata) Mention may be made of compounds rich in flavonoids, such as the product sold under the brand name Melactiva™ by Alban Muller (INCI name: Maltodextrin, Mucuna Pruriens seed extract), for example the product known to be rich in lemon flavonoids (hesperidin type) sold under the brand name "Biotanning" by Silab (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Citrus aurantium Dulcis fruit extract).

[0100] The composition (C 1Texturing agents that may be included in (E1) and (E2) include lauroyl lysine sold under the name Aminohoppe™ LL by Ajinomoto, octenyl starch succinate sold under the name Dryflo™ by National Starch, myristyl polyglucosyl ester sold under the name Montanov™ 14 by SEPPIC, and octenyl starch succinate sold under the name Aminohoppe™ LL by Ajinomoto. Examples of such fibers include cellulose fibers, cotton fibers or chitosan fibers.

[0101] The composition (E 2 The preparation process of ) comprises the following steps:

[0102] The fat phase (G) is prepared by mixing all the components in the desired proportions. 2 This mixing step is generally carried out at a temperature of ≧20° C. and ≦80° C., more particularly ≧20° C. and ≦60° C., even more particularly ≧20° C. and ≦40° C., and it is carried out under medium speed mechanical stirring of ≧50 rpm and ≦100 rpm.

[0103] Step b) of preparing an aqueous phase (A2) of all the components constituted in the desired proportions. This mixing step is generally carried out at a temperature of ≧20° C. and ≦80° C., more particularly ≧20° C. and ≦60° C., even more particularly ≧20° C. and ≦40° C., and it is carried out under mechanical stirring at a medium speed of ≧500 rpm and ≦3000 rpm. In particular, the aqueous phase (A2) obtained at the end of step b) is 1 ) exhibits a kinematic viscosity of greater than or equal to 200 mPa·s and less than or equal to 40,000 mPa·s, more particularly greater than or equal to 1,000 mPa·s and less than or equal to 40,000 mPa·s, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 2,000 mPa·s and less than or equal to 40,000 mPa·s, when measured at 20°C using a Brookfield LV viscometer at a speed of 6 revolutions per minute.

[0104] In step c), the fat phase (G 2 ) is a composition (E 2To obtain an aqueous phase (A), the aqueous phase (A) is stirred at a temperature of 20° C. or more and 80° C. or less, more particularly 20° C. or more and 60° C. or less, even more particularly 20° C. or more and 40° C. or less, under moderate mechanical stirring at a speed of 50 rpm or more and 400 rpm or less. 1 ) is added. EXAMPLES

[0105] The present invention is illustrated by the following examples without, however, being limited thereto.

[0106] A - mixture (M 1 Preparation of compositions according to the invention and comparative compositions containing The composition sold under the brand name Emogreen™ L19 is introduced in the desired amount into a jacketed glass reactor with internal circulation of a thermostatically controlled fluid, with mechanical stirring provided by an agitator with anchor blades. The stirring speed is adjusted to 50 revolutions / min and the temperature to 25° C. The desired amount of ester of formula (I) or formula (II) is then gradually introduced, and the mixture thus obtained is homogenized for 30 minutes at a temperature of 25° C. and a stirring speed of 80 revolutions / min. The mixture is then discharged.

[0107] Thus, compositions C11 and C12 according to the invention and comparative compositions C21, C22 and C23 were obtained, the weight compositions of which are given in Table 1 below.

[0108] Compositions C11 and C12 according to the invention and comparative compositions C21, C22 and C23

[0109] [Table 1]

[0110] (1): Emogreen(TM) L19 is 100% by weight. i) 3.8% linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; ii) 96.2% isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; iii) less than 0.1% by weight of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; and wherein the mixture also contains, per 100% of its weight, 15% to 20% by weight of alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), 70% to 75% by weight of alkanes containing 18 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) and 4% to 6% by weight of alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes).

[0111] (2): Caprylic / capric triglyceride is a mixture of equal weights of glyceryl trioctanoate and glyceryl tridecanoate.

[0112] (3): Cococaprylate / caprate is a mixture obtained by esterification of a mixture of octanoic and decanoic acids with coconut alcohol, more particularly the mixture sold under the brand name Lanol® 2681.

[0113] (4) Sunflower oil is a mixture of triglycerides whose fatty acid distribution, per 100% of its weight, includes 5% to 7% by weight of palmitic acid, 4% to 6% by weight of stearic acid, 15% to 25% by weight of oleic acid, and 62% to 72% by weight of linoleic acid.

[0114] (5) Isocetyl stearoyl stearate or isohexadecyl 12-[(1-oxooctadecy)oxy]octadecanoate (CAS number = 97338-28-8) is sold under the trade name Dub SSIC.

[0115] (6) Jojoba oil is a linear ester containing 36 to 46 carbon atoms.

[0116] B - Evaluation of the stability of compositions C11 and C12 according to the invention and comparative compositions C21, C22 and C23 a) A 100 ml quantity of the test composition contained in a 250 ml flask is introduced into a climate controlled chamber at 25° C. for a period of 3 months.

[0117] The following criteria are evaluated before stabilization in the chamber and after the three month period in the conditioned chamber: - Visual appearance of the test composition - Odor of the test composition

[0118] b) A quantity of 100 ml of the test composition contained in a 250 ml flask is introduced into a climate controlled chamber at 45° C. for a period of 3 months.

[0119] The following criteria are evaluated before stabilization in the chamber and after the three month period in the conditioned chamber: - Visual appearance of the test composition - Odor of the test composition

[0120] c) The results obtained are recorded in Table 2 below.

[0121] Sensory evaluation of compositions C11 and C12 according to the present invention and comparative compositions C21, C22 and C23

[0122] [Table 2]

[0123] The results obtained during the sensory evaluation, especially during prolonged storage at 45° C. over a period of 3 months, show that the compositions according to the invention remain colorless and odorless, whereas the comparative compositions exhibit an undesirable pronounced odor and / or yellow appearance in connection with their subsequent use in the preparation of a composite cosmetic composition.

[0124] C - Preparation of oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention containing compositions according to the invention and with comparative compositions The weight percentages of the components are shown in Table 3 (F 11The oil-in-water emulsions according to the present invention, labeled F and the weight percentages of the ingredients, are shown in Table 3 below (F 21 )~(F 23 Three comparative oil-in-water emulsions, marked with "1:1" are prepared. The shared preparation process for the oil-in-water emulsions according to the present invention and the comparative oil-in-water emulsions is as follows: The test composition is poured into a beaker at a temperature of 20° C. under mechanical stirring at 80 revolutions / min. - The required amount of thickener Sepinovy® EMT 10 is then added thereto under mechanical stirring at 80 revolutions / min at 20°C. - Prepare an aqueous phase comprising water and Euxyl™ PE9010 by mixing in a beaker at a temperature of 20°C. The mixture obtained is then cooled whilst being subjected to stirring of a deflocculating type at 1500 revolutions / min for 20 minutes, then discharged in order to obtain the desired oil-in-water emulsion.

[0125] [Table 3]

[0126] D - Sensory evaluation of the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention and comparative oil-in-water emulsions Principle of the method A panel of 13 duly trained and experienced panelists evaluated the criteria of "stickiness" during spreading of the test emulsions on the skin and "skin shine" after spreading of the test emulsions against the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention and the comparative oil-in-water emulsions, taking emulsion (F11) as a reference basis.

[0127] procedure The usage procedure includes five steps as follows: - Phase 1: Monitoring and evaluation of the appearance and odor of the oil-in-water emulsions being tested. - Phase 2: Pick up and evaluate ease of gripping and observe possible stringy appearance. - Phase 3: Spreading of the test emulsion on the skin by circular application to the surface of the skin in 10 revolutions at one and the same speed and collection of the sensory feel at the end of the 10th revolution. - Step 4: Continue spreading the test emulsion on the skin by still applying the same circular movement and collecting sensory impressions until the absence of an emulsion film on the skin is observed. - Phase 5: Collection of sensory sensations one minute after the end of application. The procedure is carried out at a temperature of 20°C.

[0128] Representation of results For each test emulsion and for each sensory criterion evaluated, each panelist assessed whether the test emulsion was comparable to the reference emulsion (F 11 All evaluations are collected and the data are statistically processed to determine the significance of any possible sensory differences, improvements or deteriorations, between the test emulsion and the reference emulsion.

[0129] result Standards for "stickiness" - Reference emulsion: Emulsion (F 11 ) The comparative emulsion (F) was prepared according to the protocol defined above. 21 )~(F 23 ) was evaluated and the results obtained are recorded in Table 4 below. At each point in the spreading process, (F 11 The increase in stickiness based on the standard ">(F 11 )" and (F 11 The reduction in stickiness based on the standard is "<(F 11 )" is written.

[0130] [Table 4]

[0131] "Skin Gloss" Standards - Reference emulsion: Emulsion (F 11 ) The comparative emulsion (F) was prepared according to the protocol defined above. 21 )~(F 23 ) was evaluated and the results obtained are recorded in Table 4 below. 11 The increase in skin gloss relative to the F 11 ) and the decrease is noted as "<(F 11 )" is written.

[0132] [Table 5]

[0133] Analyzing the results The results obtained were as follows: 21 )~(F 23 ) compared to emulsion F ( 11 ) sensory improvement, making available an emulsion that has a reduced sticky feel after spreading, as well as reducing the sheen of the skin after spreading.

Claims

1. Composition (C1), comprising, per 100% by weight: a) 30% by weight of - glyceryl trioctanoate (CAS number = 538-23-8), glyceryl tridecanoate (CAS number = 621-71-6), mixtures of glyceryl trioctanoate and glyceryl tridecanoate, and products of the esterification reaction between an equimolar mixture of octanoic and decanoic acids with coconut alcohol; At least one ester selected from the group consisting of: b) 70% by weight of a mixture (M1) of hydrocarbons, at least 94% by weight of which contains from 15 to 19 carbon atoms; It consists of: The mixture (M1) contains, per 100% by weight, a proportion by weight of branched alkanes equal to or greater than 90% and equal to or less than 100%; - a proportion by weight of linear alkanes equal to or greater than 0% and equal to or less than 10%; - a weight percentage of cycloalkanes equal to or greater than 0% and equal to or less than 1% and the mixture (M1) contains, per 100% by weight thereof: - from 15% to 20% by weight of alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes); - 70% to 75% by weight of alkanes containing 18 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), and - from 4% to 6% by weight of alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes); The composition (C1) comprises:

2. The ester is a mixture of equal weights of glyceryl trioctanoate and glyceryl tridecanoate, and - products sold under the INCI name Coco-caprylate / Caprate (CAS number = 95912-86-0); The composition (C1) according to claim 1, characterized in that it is at least one selected from the following:

3. The mixture (M1) contains, per 100% by weight, i) 3.8% linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; ii) 96.2% isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; and iii) less than 0.1% by weight of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms; A mixture of saturated hydrocarbons comprising: The mixture contains, per 100% by weight: - from 15% to 20% by weight of alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes); - 70% to 75% by weight of alkanes containing 18 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), and - from 4% to 6% by weight of alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes); Composition (C1) according to claim 2, characterized in that it also comprises

4. In the composition (E1) for topical use, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, per 100% of its weight: a. 50% to 90% by weight of a cosmetically acceptable aqueous phase (A1); b. 10% to 50% by weight of a fatty phase (G1), which, per 100% of its weight, comprises: b １１ ) 10% to 80% by weight of the composition (C1) according to any one of claims 1 to 3, b １２ ) 0.5% to 20% by weight of at least one surfactant of the oil-in-water type (S1), b １３ ) 0% to 89.5% by weight of at least one oil and / or one wax having a composition different from that of composition (C1). b １１ ), b １２ ) and b １３ ) is equal to 100% of said fatty phase (G1) A composition (E1) comprising:

5. The fatty phase (G1) b １４ ) 5% to 30% by weight of at least one agent for protection against the ultraviolet rays of the sun. b １１ ), b １２ ), b １３ ) and b １４ 5. Composition (E1) according to claim 4, characterized in that the sum of the proportions by weight of said fatty phase (G1) is equal to 100%.

6. Composition (E1) according to claim 5, characterized in that the agent for protection against the ultraviolet rays of the sun is selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid hexyl ester, 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris[4-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine and 2-ethylhexyldimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidine propionate.

7. Composition (E1) according to any one of claims 5 to 6 for protecting human skin against the adverse effects, more particularly redness, of exposure to UV rays from the sun.

8. Composition (E1) according to any one of claims 5 to 6 for treating or delaying adverse changes to the skin due to burns, sunburn, erythema or cancer.

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