Fluid composition for cleansing
A facial cleansing composition with a blend of stearate esters and a branched hydrocarbon in a substrate effectively removes makeup from sensitive areas like the face, ensuring mildness and a pleasant after-feel while maintaining cleansing efficacy.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2025124720
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2018-05-04
- Filing Date
- 2025-07-25
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-07
- Estimated Expiration
- 2039-05-03
AI Technical Summary
Existing facial cleansers often sacrifice aesthetics and cleaning ability for stability and mildness, particularly when used on sensitive areas like the face, and fail to provide a pleasant after-feel and adequate cleansing of makeup products such as mascara, foundation, and eyeliner without causing irritation.
A cleansing composition comprising a fluid embedded in a substrate, containing a blend of different stearate esters and a branched hydrocarbon, optionally with nonionic sucrose or glucose fatty acid esters and a carbomer interpolymer thickener, designed to effectively remove makeup while being mild to the skin and eyes, with a pleasant after-feel.
The composition provides efficient cleansing of various cosmetics with reduced stickiness, irritation, and residue, offering a softer, more moisturized feel, suitable for sensitive areas like the face, including around the eyes.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present invention relates to improved cleansing compositions for use in cleansing skin surfaces. Specifically, the present invention is useful for cleansing the facial area of skin, and is particularly useful for cleansing various makeup products. [Background technology]
[0002] Consumers face a variety of skin, hair, and nail problems, and have long sought personal care products that can cleanse the skin or deliver and / or deposit benefit agents that alleviate such problems. Facial cleansers desirably need to provide adequate cleansing efficiency for removing foundation, mascara, and eyeliner. However, to reduce irritation to the user, it is necessary to properly cleanse the skin. It is important to avoid sacrificing the product's ability to cleanse. Many delivery systems sacrifice aesthetics and cleaning ability to achieve stability and mildness. This is especially true when such products are used on sensitive areas such as the face, and more particularly when used on highly sensitive areas such as around the eyes. It is also beneficial to provide a product that feels comfortable to the user, such as by having a more moisturizing feel, being less sticky, and leaving a lower level of residue. Other desirable features include a more highly cleansed feel and increased softness (cushion-like feel) after use. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0003] It is therefore desirable to create a composition that can adequately cleanse a user's skin, that is mild to the eyes and skin, and that has a pleasant after-feel. [Means for solving the problem]
[0004] The present invention includes various cleansing compositions, as well as methods for using and preparing the cleansing compositions. In one aspect, there is a cleansing composition comprising a fluid composition embedded in a substrate, the fluid composition comprising a cleansing blend comprising a first stearate ester, a second stearate ester, and a branched hydrocarbon, wherein the first stearate ester and the second stearate ester are different from each other. The composition optionally comprises a blend of nonionic sucrose or glucose fatty acid esters. The composition also optionally comprises a carbomer interpolymer thickener. In this aspect, the substrate comprises a wipe, such as a nonwoven wipe, or a fabric.
[0005] In another aspect, the present invention provides a cleansing composition comprising a fluid composition embedded in a substrate, the fluid composition comprising a first stearate ester present in an amount of about 1.0% to about 3.0% by weight of the fluid composition, a second stearate ester present in an amount of about 1.0% to about 3.0% by weight of the fluid composition, and a cleansing blend comprising a branched hydrocarbon present in an amount of about 0.5% to about 1.5% by weight of the fluid composition, wherein the first stearate ester and the second stearate ester are different from each other. The composition optionally comprises a blend of nonionic sucrose or glucose fatty acid esters. The composition also optionally comprises a carbomer interpolymer thickener. In this aspect, the substrate comprises a wipe, such as a nonwoven wipe, or a fabric.
[0006] In another aspect, the present invention includes a method for removing cosmetics from a user's skin, comprising the step of first contacting the surface of the skin with a cleansing composition comprising a fluid composition embedded in a substrate, the fluid composition comprising a cleansing blend comprising a first stearate ester, a second stearate ester, and a branched hydrocarbon, wherein the first stearate ester and the second stearate ester are different from each other. The composition optionally comprises a blend of nonionic sucrose or glucose fatty acid esters. The composition also optionally comprises a carbomer interpolymer thickener. The method then comprises rubbing the surface of the skin with the substrate to remove at least a portion of the cosmetics from the surface of the skin. In this aspect, the substrate comprises a wipe, such as a nonwoven wipe, or a cloth. The cosmetics can include, for example, mascara, foundation, eyeliner, lipstick, and the like. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0007] The present invention provides compositions and materials that deliver optimal properties. As used herein, the term "optimal" includes comparable or improved cleansing efficacy compared to known cleansing agents. Optimal does not necessarily mean 100% cleansing efficiency, but rather an efficiency suitable for removing various cosmetics from the face. Efficient cleansing for various cosmetics will be described in more detail below. Other advantages provided by the cleansing compositions of the present invention may include one or more of the following: aesthetics, reduced stickiness, less irritation to the skin and eyes, shorter drying time achieved with less force and lower cost, reduced amount of cleansing agent in the composition, and the ability to make the cleansing composition silicone-free. In some embodiments, the cleansing compositions of the present invention do not contain emulsifiers derived from polyisobutenyl succinic anhydride or polyisobutylene.
[0008] As used herein, unless otherwise specified, the term "percent" refers to percent by weight, and similarly, all amounts set forth herein are by weight. Further, as used herein, the term "water-dispersible ingredient" refers to a material that, when combined with at least an equivalent weight amount of water, produces a uniform, clear or cloudy mixture. The term "benefit agent" as used herein includes any active ingredient to be delivered into and / or onto the skin, hair, or nails at a desired location, including, but not limited to, agents such as cosmetic or pharmaceutical agents. "Cosmetic agent" means any ingredient suitable for cosmetically treating, nourishing, and / or conditioning hair, nails, and / or skin via topical application. "Pharmaceutical agent" means any drug suitable for topical use. As used herein, "medicine" includes agents that can promote recovery from injury and illness.
[0009] Generally, the present invention includes a cleansing composition comprising one or more of water, thickeners, moisturizers, emollients, preservatives, fragrances, excipients, extracts, and buffers. Various combinations of the above ingredients are useful in the present invention. The composition may be useful in liquid or gel form for application by hand or with a combination of wipes, sheets, or sponges, thereby allowing application by an applicator device.
[0010] The cleansing composition useful in the present invention can be formulated to contain a combination of at least two emollients. As used herein, "emollient" refers to a material used to cleanse the skin, hair, and eyelashes, to prevent or relieve dryness, or to protect the skin. Examples of emollients include, but are not limited to, hydrophobic compounds such as vegetable oils, mineral oils (e.g., petrolatum), and fatty acid esters (e.g., isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate) (including fatty acid esters of glycerol).
[0011] The cleansing composition used herein comprises at least one oil phase and at least one water phase, and may comprise multiple oil phases in addition to a separate water phase.Each oil phase comprises the ingredients described herein.When combined into a cleansing composition, the first oil phase, the optional second oil phase, and the water phase provide a safe, effective, and pleasant cleanser.It is understood that when forming a cleansing composition, the first oil phase, the second oil phase, and the water phase do not need to be formed separately, but rather the components of each of these phases can be added together in any desired order.The designations of the first oil phase, the second oil phase, and the water phase are intended to aid in the description and understanding of the components of the cleansing composition, but are not intended to refer to any particular method or necessary steps used to form the cleansing composition described herein.In other words, the first and second oil phases may be included in a single oil phase.
[0012] The present invention comprises a fluid cleansing composition.The cleansing composition comprises a first oil phase and a water phase, and optionally comprises a second oil phase.As mentioned above, the first oil phase and the second oil phase may form one oil phase, and do not need to be formed separately.Furthermore, all three phases do not necessarily need to be formed separately, but may be formed in a single batch, or may be formed by adding any component at any time.The designation of "phase" is merely intended to help describe the composition as a whole, and is not necessarily intended to describe the formation of different, separately formed phases.
[0013] The first oil phase comprises at least three emollients, wherein the first emollient, the second emollient, and the third emollient are each different from one another. The first emollient and the second emollient may be present in the same amount or substantially the same amount. In some embodiments, the first emollient may be present in a greater amount than the second emollient.
[0014] The first emollient may be an alkyl ester according to Formula I: R1-R2(I)
[0015] In structure (I), R1 is C3 to C 22 and may be linear, branched, cyclic, saturated, or unsaturated. R1 may have one, two, three, or four branch points. A branch point may have three bonds to other carbons and one bond to hydrogen, or four bonds to other carbons. The side chain attached to the branch point may be methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl. The branch point may be at the end of R1 (opposite the ester group) or adjacent to the ester group. Non-limiting examples include ethyl-hexyl, isopropyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, isohexyl, isodecyl, isododecyl, etc. Examples of linear R1 include propyl, hexyl, nonyl, decyl, and hexadecyl. R1 may contain one or two groups with heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, or sulfur, such as hydroxy (—OH) and alkyl ethers (—O-methyl, —O-ethyl, and —O-R1). R1 may contain one, two, or three double or triple bonds, or both. R1 may be synthetic, e.g., derived from petroleum, or may be derived from renewable sources such as plant and animal materials, e.g., from triglyceride oils, or from fermentation processes, or may be derived from a mixture of sources.
[0016] R2 is a carboxylic acid having the general structure: -O-CO-R3. R3 can have from about 12 carbons to about 22 carbons and can be straight-chained, branched, cyclic, saturated, or unsaturated. R3 can have one, two, three, or four branch points. A branch point can have three bonds to other carbons and one bond to hydrogen, or four bonds to other carbons. The side chain attached to the branch point can be methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl. The branch point can be at the end of R3 (opposite the ester group) or adjacent to the ester group. Examples of R2 with a branched R3 include isododecanoate, isopentadecanoate, neopentadecanoate, isohexadecanoate, and isobehenate. Examples of linear R2 include laurate, myristate, stearate, and behenate. R3 may contain one or two groups with heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, or sulfur, examples of which include hydroxy (-OH) and alkyl ethers (-O-methyl, -O-ethyl, and -O-R1). Examples of R2 with a hydroxy group in R3 are α-hydroxystearate, α-hydroxypalmitate, and ricinoleate. R2 may contain one, two, or three double or triple bonds, or both. R2 may be synthetic, e.g., derived from petroleum, or from renewable resources such as plant and animal materials like triglyceride oils, or from fermentation processes, or from a mixture of resources.
[0017] The first oil phase may also include a second emollient, which may be an ester according to formula (I) above, where the second ester is different from the first ester. If R2 differs from R2 of the first ester by 0, 1, or 2 carbons, then R1 of the second ester differs from R1 of the first ester by at least 5 carbons. If R1 differs from R1 of the first ester by 0, 1, or 2 carbons, then R2 of the second ester differs from R2 of the first ester by at least 5 carbons.
[0018] The first emollient may be a stearic acid ester such as an isostearate, for example, isopropyl isostearate, decyl isostearate, and hexyl isostearate. Isopropyl isostearate may be commercially available under the trade name Crodamol IPIS™. In some embodiments, when decyl isostearate is used, it may be a simple ester produced using commercially available isostearic acid or any of its derivatives useful for forming esters. However, in some embodiments, the decyl isostearate may be or include an isostearate formed from the esterification of isostearic acid or any of its derivatives useful for forming esters that has been subjected to a purification process to increase the proportion of monobranched molecules present in the acid compared to unpurified (e.g., simple) acid. As used herein, the term "decyl isostearate" refers to simple isostearate that is not formed from highly mono-branched acids, while the term "highly mono-branched decyl isostearate" refers to an ester formed from isostearic acid having a high proportion of mono-branched molecules compared to simple isostearic acid.
[0019] Thus, in some embodiments, the decyl isostearate may be a highly mono-branched decyl isostearate formed from an isostearic acid having a higher proportion of mono-branched molecules compared to simple isostearic acid. "Highly mono-branched decyl isostearate" includes decyl isostearate in which at least about 60% by weight of the decyl isostearate molecules contain monoalkyl-branched isostearate groups and less than about 25% by weight of the decyl isostearate molecules contain polyalkyl-branched isostearate groups. Exemplary highly mono-branched decyl isostearates and methods for forming highly mono-branched decyl isostearates can be found in U.S. Patent No. 9,656,944, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
[0020] The first oil phase also includes a second emollient, the second emollient being different from the first emollient. The second emollient may be an alkyl ester as defined above, and the second emollient may be a second stearate ester, where the second stearate ester is different from the first stearate ester. Suitable stearates include those defined above for the first stearate ester. For example, the first emollient may include isopropyl isostearate, and the second emollient may include simple decyl isostearate and / or highly mono-branched decyl isostearate. In some embodiments, the second emollient may be a blend of simple decyl isostearate and highly mono-branched decyl isostearate. In embodiments in which the first and second emollients are a first stearate ester and a second stearate ester, the first and second stearate esters may be present in the same or substantially the same amounts, hi some aspects, the first stearate ester may be present in a greater amount than the second stearate ester.
[0021] The first oil phase may also include a third emollient, where the third emollient is different from both the first and second emollients. The third emollient may also be an alkyl ester as defined above, or in some embodiments, the third emollient may be a straight- or branched-chain hydrocarbon emollient having 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Suitable straight- or branched-chain hydrocarbon emollients include, for example, decane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane, squalene, hexadecane, or isoparaffin. In certain embodiments, the third emollient is a branched hydrocarbon emollient having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as isohexadecane, which may be available under the trade name Permethyl 101A, sold by Sumitomo Corporation.
[0022] If the third emollient is a branched hydrocarbon, it may optionally have 1 to 5 branch points. The branch points may have three bonds to other carbons and one bond to hydrogen, or four bonds to other carbons. The side chains attached to the branch points may be methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl.
[0023] The third emollient may contain one or two groups with heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, or sulfur, examples of which include hydroxy (-OH) and alkyl ethers (-O-methyl, -O-ethyl, and -O-propyl). R1 may contain one, two, or three double or triple bonds, or both. The third emollient may be synthetic, e.g., derived from petroleum, or may be derived from renewable resources such as plant and animal materials, e.g., triglyceride oils, or from fermentation processes, or may be derived from a mixture of resources.
[0024] In certain embodiments, the isohexadecane can have a structure according to Formula II:
[0025] [ka]
[0026] Desirably, each of the first and second emollients is independently present in an amount greater than the third emollient. By way of example, the first emollient may be present in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight of the composition, or from about 1% to about 6% by weight of the composition, preferably from about 2% to about 4% by weight of the composition; the second emollient may be present in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight of the composition, or from about 1% to about 6% by weight of the composition, preferably from about 2% to about 4% by weight of the composition; and the third emollient may be present in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight of the composition, or from about 1% to about 6% by weight of the composition, preferably from about 2% to about 4% by weight of the composition.
[0027] It may be desirable for the first emollient, second emollient, and third emollient to be present in a desired ratio relative to one another. By way of example, if the first emollient is a first stearate ester, the second emollient is a second stearate ester, and the third emollient is a branched hydrocarbon having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, they may be present in a weight ratio of about 4:4:2 or about 2:2:1 (first stearate ester:second stearate ester:branched hydrocarbon).
[0028] In other embodiments, the first emollient, the second emollient, and the third emollient may be present in approximately equal amounts by weight (for example, in a weight ratio of about 1:1:1). However, it may be preferable to change the amount of the three emollients depending on the desired feel and the desired cleansing. This may be particularly true when other phases of the composition contain specific ingredients or have a specific skin feel profile. That is, the second oil phase and / or the water phase may contain ingredients that provide the overall composition with a desired skin feel profile, and therefore the first oil phase can provide a higher level of cleansing without having to focus on the desired skin feel. In contrast, the second oil phase and / or the water phase may contain ingredients that do not provide the overall composition with a desired skin feel profile, and therefore the first oil phase may focus more on the desired skin feel while providing a suitable cleansing profile.
[0029] While the emollients in the first oil phase are useful for providing cleansing, it is desirable that the overall cleansing composition of the present invention meet several criteria, including not only providing cleansing but also providing less stickiness, more moisturizing power, less residue, less stickiness, and a softer / cushion-like feel for various types of makeup, including durable / waterproof makeup.
[0030] For example, in some embodiments, it may be desirable to have a third emollient, such as a branched hydrocarbon, present in an amount less than the first emollient and less than the second emollient by weight.In other embodiments, it may be desirable to have a third emollient, such as a branched hydrocarbon, present in an amount greater than one or both of the first and second emollients.Therefore, depending on the ingredients of the second oil phase and the aqueous phase, the ingredients in the first oil phase can be varied to suit the cleansing and skin feel profile of the overall composition.
[0031] Thus, in some embodiments, the ratio of the three emollients may be about 1.1:1.1:1 (first stearate ester:second stearate ester:branched hydrocarbon) to about 2:2:1 (first stearate ester:second stearate ester:branched hydrocarbon). In other embodiments, particularly when the third emollient is present in a greater amount than the first and second emollients, respectively, the weight ratio of the three emollients may be about 1:1:1.1 to about 1:1:3, or about 1:1:1.3 to 1:1:1.5 (first stearate ester:second stearate ester:branched hydrocarbon). The first oil phase is present in the composition in an amount of about 2.5% to about 20% by weight of the total cleansing composition, or about 5% to about 12% by weight of the total cleansing composition, or about 7-10% by weight of the total cleansing composition. The combined weight percent of the first, second, and third emollients may desirably be about 7% by weight of the total cleansing composition.
[0032] One emollient, di-PPG-3 myristyl adipate, may not provide the desired benefits in the present invention, and therefore, it may be desirable for the cleansing compositions described and used herein to be free of di-PPG-3 myristyl adipate.
[0033] The composition desirably includes a second oil phase, which may include cleansing ingredients such as, for example, moisturizers, nonionic surfactants (including non-foaming nonionic surfactants), glycerides, preservatives, fragrances, and the like.
[0034] The second oil phase may contain one or more humectants, including aliphatic diols. Other commercially available humectants capable of providing moisturizing and conditioning properties to the cleansing composition are suitable for use in the present invention. When present, the humectant is preferably present in an amount of about 0.1 percent to about 4 percent, more preferably about 0.5 percent to about 2 percent, and most preferably about 0.5 percent to about 1 percent, based on the total weight of the composition. Examples of suitable humectants include, but are not limited to: 1) a water-soluble liquid polyol selected from the group consisting of glycerin, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; 2) a humectant of formula III: HO-(R″O) b -H (III) wherein R″ is an alkylene group having from about 2 to about 4 carbon atoms and b is an integer from about 1 to about 10; 3) polyalkylene glycols such as PEG 4, of formula IV: CH3-C6H 10 O5-(OCH2CH2) c -OH (IV)
[0039] wherein c is an integer from about 5 to about 25; 4) urea; 5) fructose; 6) glucose; 7) honey; 8) lactic acid; 9) maltose; 10) sodium glucuronate; and 11) mixtures thereof.
[0035] The second oil phase may also contain one or more nonionic surfactants, including essentially non-foaming nonionic surfactants.Exemplary suitable essentially non-foaming ionic surfactants include, for example, blends of sucrose fatty acid esters.The blends of sucrose fatty acid esters may include sucrose combined with fatty acids such as stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, and one or more combinations thereof.One such desirable blend of sucrose fatty acid esters is palm sucrose, available from Evonik Industries under the trade name Tegosoft® LSE.
[0036] "Essentially non-foaming" means that the surfactant, when used with the compositions of the present invention, has a column height of less than about 20 mm as measured by the Ross-Miles Foaming Test. See 18(I.) Oil & Soap 99-102(1941) ("Ross-Miles Test"), incorporated herein by reference. The cleansing compositions and personal care systems may be rinseable with water or wipeable. It is desirable that any non-foaming nonionic surfactant used in the cleansing compositions described herein be rinseable with water or require no rinsing at all. In some embodiments, it may be useful to use a blend of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate, available from Croda under the trade name "Arlacel 2121," as the non-foaming nonionic surfactant. The non-foaming nonionic surfactant may be present in any desired amount, and in some embodiments, may be present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight of the total cleansing composition, or from about 0.50% to about 0.75% by weight of the total cleansing composition.
[0037] In addition to the above-mentioned emollients, the cleansing composition may contain a polymeric emulsifier. Useful polymeric emulsifiers include, for example, glycerides or triglycerides, including caprylic / capric triglyceride or PEG-6 caprylic / capric glyceride. As used herein, the term "polymeric emulsifier" refers to a compound capable of emulsifying a system, the polymeric emulsifier having a molecular weight of at least about 5000, preferably a block copolymer having a hydrophilic portion and a hydrophobic portion. When used in an effective amount to emulsify a personal care system, this polymeric emulsifier surprisingly does not cause significant eye irritation. That is, when this emulsifier-containing composition was applied to the eye area of 80 consumers, less than about 5% of the users reported discomfort around the eye area. Other examples of suitable polymeric emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, polyethylene glycol-30 dipolyhydroxystearate available from Croda under the trade name "Cithrol DPHS"; dimethicone copolyol available from Goldschmidt Chemical Corporation under the trade name "Abil EM® 90"; substituted acrylates such as those available from Goodrich Corporation under the trade name "Pemulen®"; and mixtures thereof. The polymeric emulsifier may be present in any desired amount, and in some embodiments, may be present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight of the total cleansing composition, or in an amount of about 0.75% by weight of the total cleansing composition.
[0038] The second oil phase may also contain a preservative or preservative blend. Suitable preservatives include ingredients such as ethylhexylglycerin, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid, phenoxyethanol, polyaminopropyl biguanide, chlorphenesin, PEG-4 laurate, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, and mixtures thereof. The preservative may be present in any desired amount, and in some embodiments, may be present in an amount of about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of the total cleansing composition, or in an amount of about 0.1% to about 1% by weight of the total cleansing composition. In one aspect, the preservative blend includes chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol.
[0039] The second oil phase may also include a fragrance or fragrance blend. The fragrance may include essential oils or fragrant compounds, fixatives, extracts, vitamins, and solvents. The fragrance may be present in any desired amount, and in some embodiments, may be present in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 1% by weight of the total cleansing composition, or from about 0.1% to about 0.2% by weight of the total cleansing composition.
[0040] The second oil phase may be present in an amount of from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the total cleansing composition, or from about 2.5% to about 5% by weight of the total cleansing composition.
[0041] The first and second oil phases can be formed together to make one single oil phase, or can be formed as separate components in the cleansing composition.The designation of the first and second oil phases is not intended to require the separate formation of these two oil phases.When processing the entire cleansing composition, it may be desirable to process the two oil phases separately, or the two oil phases can be processed as a single phase, with the order of adding components being variable.
[0042] The composition includes an aqueous phase. As with the first and second oil phases, the aqueous phase does not necessarily need to be processed as a separate, distinct phase from the first and / or second oil phases. The aqueous phase is present in the largest amount relative to the first and second oil phases, and may be present in an amount of about 75% to about 95% by weight of the total cleansing composition, or about 80% to about 85% by weight of the total cleansing composition. The aqueous phase comprises water or another suitable carrier. Water may be present in an amount of about 75% to about 90% by weight of the final composition, more preferably about 80% to about 88% by weight of the final composition.
[0043] The first oil phase, the second oil phase, or the aqueous phase may further comprise one or more thickeners, which may be hydrophilic thickeners. Examples of suitable hydrophilic thickeners include, but are not limited to, carbomers, acrylate copolymers, and acrylate crosspolymers available from BFGoodrich under the tradename "Carbopol® ETD2020" (INCI: Acrylates / C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Carbopol® Ultrez 10 NF Polymer (INCI: Carbomer), hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with cetyl ether groups available from Hercules under the tradename "Natrosol® Plus", polyvinyl methyl ether / maleic anhydride (PVM / MA) decadiene crosspolymer available from International Specialty Products under the tradename "Stabileze QM", and copolymers and mixtures thereof, with carbomers being preferred. Examples of suitable acrylate copolymers include, but are not limited to, acrylate copolymers available from Rohm & Haas under the trade name "Aculyn® 33," acrylate / aminoacrylate copolymers available from National Starch & Chemical Company under the trade name "Structure Plus," acrylate / steareth-20 itaconic acid copolymers available from National Starch & Chemical Company under the trade name "Structure 2001," acrylate / ceteth-20 itaconic acid copolymers available from National Starch & Chemical Company under the trade name "Structure 3001," acrylate / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymers available from Rohm & Haas under the trade name "Aculyn® 22," and copolymers and mixtures thereof. Carbopol ETD 2020, referred to as a "carbomer interpolymer thickener," is preferred in the present invention. The thickening agent may be present in an amount of from about 0.05% to about 0.50% by weight of the total cleansing composition, or from about 0.12% to about 0.18% by weight of the total cleansing composition.
[0044] The aqueous phase may contain a buffer. Suitable buffers include, for example, citrate buffer, phosphate buffer, lactate buffer, gluconate buffer, and sodium hydroxide. The buffer may be present in any amount desired to achieve the desired pH. In some embodiments, the buffer may be a blend of 20% sodium hydroxide and water or other solvent. The buffer may be present in an amount of about 0.01% to about 0.5% by weight of the final composition, more preferably about 0.2% by weight of the total cleansing composition.
[0045] In some embodiments, the present invention includes a cleansing composition comprising or consisting essentially of a first oil phase, a second oil phase, and an aqueous phase. It is desirable that the aqueous phase be present in the cleansing composition in the largest amount by weight. It is also desirable that the first oil phase be present in a greater amount by weight than the second oil phase. The present invention may also include a concentrated blend in which three phases are present but the amount of water is significantly reduced, and the concentrate may be prepared and maintained separately, with water being added at a later date. The use of such a concentrate may be particularly useful for manufacturing and shipping purposes, especially when the final composition (including water) is prepared in a location separate from the other ingredients.
[0046] The compositions described herein are useful for removing various cosmetics from a user's skin, and are particularly useful for efficiently removing mascara, foundation, lipstick, and eyeliner without leaving a heavy or sticky residue. Mascara has a reputation for being a difficult cosmetic material to remove from the skin. This is because mascara deposits a high concentration of film-forming substances and contains a relatively high concentration of hydrophobic materials. Furthermore, mascara contains a high concentration of carbon-rich pigments, resulting in intense color. In addition, because mascara is typically applied to the eyes or eyelashes, cleaning requires gentle, low-pressure, non-planar application. Eyeliner presents its own removal challenges, as it contains titanium dioxide, iron oxide, mica, silica, and higher concentrations of pigments / colorants, which can be more difficult to remove. In addition, like mascara, eyeliner is often applied to the eyes or eye area, requiring gentle, low-pressure, non-planar application for cleansing. Foundation also presents some difficulties. Foundations are typically emulsions that may contain silicones, which remain on the skin. Today's cosmetics are developed for "24-hour" use, meaning that the cosmetics remain on the user's skin for an extended period of time. These "long-lasting" waterproof cosmetics have high transfer resistance, making them difficult to remove.
[0047] It is particularly desirable to provide a material that effectively and thoroughly removes these three cosmetic materials as needed. Furthermore, it is desirable to provide a composition that does not leave an oily or sticky residue on the skin surface, as such oily cleansers can be difficult to remove and can leave the user feeling unclean. In addition, it is important that the cleansing composition be mild or non-irritating to the skin, particularly the eyes. A soft and pleasant feel on the user's skin during and after use is also desirable. The present invention provides a cleansing composition that has the desired properties defined herein while also providing suitable cleansing capabilities.
[0048] Another embodiment of the present invention is directed to a personal care system comprising, consisting of, or consisting essentially of a) a first oil phase, b) a second oil phase, and c) an aqueous phase, based on the total weight of the personal care system. The personal care system can be used as a liquid or gel composition that is applied to the skin by the user's hands or other implement. Optionally, the personal care system can be impregnated or embedded into a substrate, such as a wipe or other application implement, in which case the user can simply remove the wipe or other application implement from the package and use it to achieve cleansing. In a preferred embodiment, the cleansing composition is impregnated into an individual wipe, which the user can use to cleanse the user's skin. The individual wipes can be packaged in a dispenser containing multiple wipes or a single wipe. Desirable substrates include wipes, which are described in more detail below.
[0049] The personal care system and cleansing composition may optionally further contain one or more benefit agents or pharmaceutically acceptable salts thereof. As used herein, the term "benefit agent" includes any active ingredient, such as a cosmetic or pharmaceutical agent, to be delivered into and / or onto the skin, hair, or nails at the desired location. "Cosmetic agent" means any ingredient suitable for cosmetically treating, nourishing, and / or conditioning hair, nails, and / or skin through topical application. "Medicinal agent" means any drug that is either hydrophobic or hydrophilic in nature and suitable for topical use. As used herein, "medicine" includes agents that can promote recovery from injury and illness. When used, benefit agents may be included in either the first oil phase, the second oil phase, or the aqueous phase, provided that they are compatible with the other ingredients in the selected phase.
[0050] The beneficial agents useful herein may be classified according to their therapeutic benefit or their assumed mechanism of action. However, it should be understood that the beneficial agents useful herein may provide more than one therapeutic benefit or act via more than one mechanism of action under some circumstances. Therefore, the specific classifications provided herein are made for convenience and are not intended to limit the specific application(s) listed. In addition, the compounds identified below as suitable for use as beneficial agents can be used in amounts greater than or equal to the amount that can be used for other purposes in cleansing compositions or personal care systems.
[0051] Examples of suitable benefit agents include, but are not limited to, depigmenting agents; reflective agents; film-forming polymers; humectants; amino acids and derivatives thereof; antibacterial agents; allergy suppressants; anti-acne agents; anti-aging agents; anti-wrinkle agents; antiseptics; analgesics; antitussives; antipruritic agents; topical anesthetics; anti-hair loss agents; hair growth promoters; hair growth inhibitors, antihistamines (e.g., Mandragora vernalis (Mandragora Vernalis, feverfew, etc.); anti-infectives (e.g., Acacia catechu, Aloe vera, Lily of the valley, Echinacea, Eucalyptus, Mentha piperita, Dog rose, Sassafras Albidum, etc.); inflammation inhibitors; anti-nausea drugs; anticholinergics; vasoconstrictors; vasodilators; wound healing promoters; peptides, polypeptides, and proteins; deodorants and antiperspirants; pharmaceuticals; emollients and skin moisturizers; skin tightening agents, vitamins; tanning agents; skin lightening agents; antifungals (e.g., Cornflower, Rhododendron amurense, and antifungal agents for foot preparations); detoxifying agents These include, but are not limited to, hair preparations; shaving preparations; topical analgesics; fragrances; counterirritants; hemorrhoid preparations; insecticides; poison ivy products; poison sumac products; burn products; diaper rash medications; heat rash medications; vitamins, amino acids and derivatives thereof; herbal extracts; retinoids; flavenoids; sensates; antioxidants; skin conditioners; hair bleaching agents; chelating agents; cell replacement enhancers; colorants; sunscreens, active ingredients disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 6,063,397 (which is incorporated herein by reference), anti-edema agents, collagen enhancers, and mixtures thereof.
[0052] Examples of suitable anti-edema agents non-exclusively include natural bisabolol, synthetic bisabolol, and mixtures thereof.
[0053] Examples of suitable vasoconstrictors include, but are not limited to, horse chestnut extract, Japanese pepper, and mixtures thereof.
[0054] Non-exclusive examples of suitable anti-inflammatory agents include benoxaprofen, Centella asiatica, bisabolol, feverfew (whole), feverfew (parthenolide-free), green tea extract, green tea concentrate, hydrogen peroxide, lycopene (including "Lyc-o-Pen" available from LycoRed Natural Products Industries, Ltd.), oat oil, chamomile, and mixtures thereof.
[0055] Examples of collagen strengthening agents include, but are not limited to, vitamin A, vitamin C, and mixtures thereof.
[0056] Examples of suitable skin tightening agents include, but are not limited to, dimethylaminoethanol ("DMAE").
[0057] Examples of suitable anti-pruritic and skin protectant agents include, but are not limited to, oatmeal, beta-glucan, feverfew, soybean and its derivatives, baking soda, colloidal oatmeal, surfactant-based colloidal oatmeal cleanser, Anagallis Arvensis, evening primrose, vervain, etc. The anti-pruritic agents may be used in an amount of from about 0.01 percent to about 40 percent, preferably from about 1 percent to about 5 percent, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition.
[0058] As used herein, colloidal oatmeal refers to the powder obtained by grinding and further processing whole grain oats that meet the US standard for first or second oats.Colloidal oatmeal has the following particle size distribution: 3% or less of all particles are greater than 150 micrometers in size, and 20% or less of all particles are greater than 75 micrometers in size.Examples of suitable colloidal oatmeal include, but are not limited to, "Tech-O" available from Beacon Corporation and colloidal oatmeal available from Quaker.
[0059] Examples of suitable reflectors include, but are not limited to, mica, alumina, calcium silicate, glycol dioleate, glycol distearate, silica, sodium magnesium fluorosilicate, and mixtures thereof.
[0060] Suitable film-forming agents include acetyl tyrosine amide, zinc pyrithione, coal tar, benzoyl peroxide, selenium sulfide, hydrocortisone, sulfur, menthol, pramoxine hydrochloride, tricetylmonium chloride, polyquaternium 10, panthenol, panthenol triacetate, vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin B and its derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin D and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamin K and its derivatives, keratin, lysine, arginine, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed silk protein, octyl methoxycinnamate, oxybenzone, minoxidil, titanium dioxide, zinc dioxide, retinol, erthromycin, tretinoin, and mixtures thereof.
[0061] One type of benefit agent includes therapeutic ingredients effective in treating dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis, and the symptoms associated therewith. Examples of such suitable benefit agents include, but are not limited to, zinc pyrithione, anthralin, shale oil and its derivatives (e.g., sulfonated shale oil), selenium sulfide, sulfur; salicylic acid; coal tar; povidone-iodine, ketoconazole, dichlorophenylimidazolodioxalane (Janssen imidazoles such as benzodiazepines (commercially available from Pharmaceutica (NV) under the trade name "Elubiol"), clotrimazole, itraconazole, miconazole, climbazole, tioconazole, sulconazole, butoconazole, fluconazole, miconazole nitrate, and any possible stereoisomers and derivatives thereof; piroctone olamine (octopirox); selenium sulfide; ciclopirox olamine; antipsoriatic drugs such as vitamin D analogs, e.g., calcipotriol, calcitriol, and takaretrol; vitamin A analogs such as esters of vitamin A (e.g., vitamin A palmitate, retinol, and retinoic acid); corticosteroids such as hydrocortisone, clobetasone butyrate, clobetasol propionate, and mixtures thereof.
[0062] The amount of benefit agent combined with the cleansing composition or emulsion can vary depending, for example, on the ability of the benefit agent to penetrate through the skin, hair, or nails, the particular benefit agent selected, the particular benefit desired, the user's sensitivity to the benefit agent, the user's health, age, and condition of the skin, hair, and / or nails. In short, benefit agents are used in a "safe and effective amount," i.e., an amount high enough to provide the desired skin, hair, or nail benefit or correct the particular condition being treated, but low enough to avoid serious side effects, using sound medical judgment and a reasonable risk-to-benefit ratio. When included, benefit agents may be present in the cleansing composition or personal care system in an amount of from about 0.01 percent to about 5.0 percent, preferably from about 0.01 percent to about 2.0 percent, and more preferably from about 0.01 percent to about 1.0 percent, based on the total weight of the composition / system.
[0063] Optionally, commercially available detergent thickeners capable of imparting an appropriate viscosity to the conditioning composition are suitable for use in the present invention. When used, the detergent thickener should be present in the composition in an amount sufficient to raise the Brookfield viscosity of the composition to a value of about 500 to about 10,000 centipoise. Examples of suitable detergent thickeners include, but are not limited to, those represented by Formula V: HO-(CH2CH2O) z H (V) wherein z is an integer from about 3 to about 200; Included are fatty acids containing from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms; fatty acid esters of ethoxylated polyols; ethoxylated derivatives of mono- and diesters of fatty acids and glycerin; hydroxyalkyl celluloses; alkyl celluloses; hydroxyalkyl alkyl celluloses; and mixtures thereof. More specifically, suitable detergent thickeners non-exclusively include behenalkonium chloride; cetyl alcohol, quaternium-46, hydroxyethylcellulose, cocodimonium chloride, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, quaternium-18, a mixture of PEG-18 glycerol oleate / coconut, acrylates / steareth-50 acrylate copolymer, laureth-3 and propylene glycol (available commercially from Goldschmidt under the trade name "Antil 208"), a mixture of cocamidopropyl betaine and glyceryl laurate (available commercially from Goldschmidt under the trade name "Antil HS60"), a mixture of propylene glycol, PEG 55, and propylene glycol oleate (available commercially from Goldschmidt under the trade name "Antil 414 liquid"), and mixtures thereof. Preferred detergent thickeners include polyethylene glycol esters, more preferably PEG-150 distearate available from Stepan Company (Northfield, Ill.) or available under the trade name "PEG 6000 DS" from Comiel, SpA (Bologna, Italy).
[0064] The above-mentioned cleansing composition can be prepared by combining desired components in a suitable container, and mixing them under any desired conditions using any conventional mixing means known in the art, such as mechanically stirring propeller, paddle, etc. Processing can include the separate steps of forming a first oil phase, forming a second oil phase, and forming an aqueous phase, and then combining the first oil phase, the second oil phase, and the aqueous phase in any desired order to produce the final cleansing composition. Alternatively, the cleansing composition can be formed by forming the first and second oil phases into a single oil phase, in which case the order of adding components can be changed, and then combining the single oil phase with the separately formed aqueous phase. Alternatively, the cleansing composition can be formed by combining the components in the first oil phase, the second oil phase, and the aqueous phase together into a single composition, in which case the order of adding components can be changed.
[0065] The cleansing composition may be provided in the form of a liquid, gel, or cream in a container, allowing the user to apply the composition to the skin with their hands or with a cloth, wipe, sheet, or other device, or the composition may be embedded in or impregnated into a wipe or multiple sheets or wipes, allowing the composition to be applied to the skin by wiping with the sheet, wipe, or other device.
[0066] Since the composition is applied to the face and is preferably used to remove cosmetic materials, it may be desirable to impregnate a sheet or wipe and provide it to the user in this form. The user removes the impregnated wipe from a suitable airtight package and applies it directly to the skin. Thus, a system or package may contain multiple wipes in a resealable package, each of which is impregnated with or otherwise contains the cleansing composition of the present invention. In other embodiments, each individual wipe may be contained in its own airtight package or container, and the package may be discarded after use of the wipe contained therein. The wipe is preferably disposable and contains degradable components, thereby providing environmental health. Wiping material can include, for example, natural, biodegradable, or synthetic fibers or filaments (e.g., wool, silk, jute, hemp, cotton, flax, sisal, or ramie), or synthetic (e.g., rayon, cellulose esters, polyvinyl derivatives, polyolefins such as polyethylene and polypropylene, polyamides such as nylon 6 and nylon 6,6, or polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate), or combinations thereof. These nonwoven materials are generally described in INDA "NONWOVEN FABRICS HANDBOOK" (1999) for nonwoven substrates and methods of manufacturing them. One particular substrate that may be useful is an embossed spunlace nonwoven material made from a mixture of 20% rayon 1.7 dtex, 40% polyester (PET) 1.3 dtex, and 40% polyester (PET) 1.7 dtex. The basis weight of the substrate can vary, but generally ranges from about 20 grams per square meter to about 500 grams per square meter, for example, from about 50 grams per square meter to about 150 grams per square meter. The wipes substrate can be of any desired size, and in some embodiments, can have any desired area, including about 2 to 10 inches in length and about 2 to 10 inches in width, more desirably about 7 to 8 inches in length and about 7 to 8 inches in width.Other suitable wipe materials include those described in European Patent No. 1 283 019(B1), U.S. Patent No. 9,622,944, and U.S. Patent Application No. 2016 / 0367102, the entire disclosures of each of which are incorporated herein by reference.
[0067] In some aspects, the composition is provided to the user in a liquid dispensing bottle or container, where the user applies the composition to a wipe or other applicator device, and the user cleanses the skin using the applicator to which the composition has been applied. The composition may be sold in a single dispensing bottle, or in a kit in which the package includes a dispensing bottle with the composition therein and multiple applicator devices, such as wipes or bowls.
[0068] The present invention includes not only the cleansing composition described above, but also a method of using the cleansing composition described above. The method includes applying an effective amount of the composition to skin (including facial skin and skin near the eyes) and cleansing the skin with the composition. The composition can be applied to the skin by hand or by using an applicator (e.g., a sheet, a wet wipe, a sponge, a brush, etc.). The composition can be applied to the skin when the skin is wet or dry, and after application, the composition can be wiped off the skin, washed off the skin, or allowed to dry. It is particularly desirable to apply the composition to the skin via a pre-impregnated wipe and allow the skin to dry without further washing or cleaning by the user. The used wipe can be discarded by the user. The invention described herein can be practiced without any element, ingredient, or step not specifically disclosed herein, or may include additional elements or steps not explicitly disclosed herein.
[0069] As described above, the present invention is directed to a composition that can be used to effectively and efficiently clean various cosmetics from a user's skin surface. The composition of the present invention can efficiently remove, for example, foundation, lipstick, eye shadow, lip liner, eyebrow pencil, pomade, blush mascara, concealer, highlighter, and / or eyeliner. Furthermore, the composition of the present invention may be completely or substantially free of silicone.
[0070] The present invention will be better understood through the following examples, which are illustrative in nature and are not intended to be limited to any particular combination of elements. [Example]
[0071] The cleansing compositions and products described herein not only effectively remove desired makeup products from the skin, but also provide the user with a number of beneficial characteristics, including, for example, leaving a less sticky feel on the skin to which they are applied, low or no tingling (e.g., eye tingling), a soft / cushion-like feel, leaving less residue behind, and leaving the skin feeling moisturized.
[0072] The following non-limiting examples demonstrate the effectiveness of the present invention.
[0073] Example 1 - Undiluted Emollients Screening Test Each emollient was individually tested in vitro according to the neat emollient screening instrument test protocol and in vivo using the neat emollient screening phase protocol detailed below. The neat emollients were screened to determine effectiveness based on makeup (e.g., foundation, eyeliner, and mascara) removal efficacy, skin feel, and cost. As used herein, the term "neat" refers to a sample containing only the emollient with no other ingredients added. "Neat" emollient testing may include the emollient embedded in or dispersed on / in the wipe substrate, as described below.
[0074] Example 1A - Neat Emollient Screening In Vitro Test Each emollient was tested in vitro to determine cleansing efficacy in removing foundation (Revlon ColorStay™ Foundation 450 Mocha), eyeliner (L'Oreal Paris Infallible Never Fail Eyeliner, Black 511), and mascara (CoverGirl LashBlast Fusion Water Resistant Mascara 885 very back).
[0075] In vitro testing was carried out using a Sheen wet abrasive scrub tester (REF 903 / PG) and an X-rite spectrophotometer (Hunter Labscan XE) followed by TukeKramer colorimetric evaluation (measuring Delta E) according to the protocol described below. 1. Four silicone strips were prepared for each emollient sample. 2. Each makeup formulation was applied to a 4 cm x 2 cm rectangular area on its individual silicone strip (one makeup formulation per silicone strip) and left to dry overnight. A 3.400 g weight was placed on the Sheen wet abrasive scrub tester and the mounted material was wiped. 4. A spectrophotometer was used to read the silicone strips after they had dried overnight to establish a baseline color level. 5. 500 microliters of emollient was applied over the make-up applied to the silicone strip and spread over the area using a finger cot for 15 seconds (before and after). 6,500 microliters of emollient was applied to a wipe material, an embossed spunlaced nonwoven material made from a blend of 20% rayon 1.7 dtex, 40% polyester (PET) 1.3 dtex, and 40% polyester (PET) 1.7 dtex (the resulting wipe is referred to as the "sample substrate"). 7. A scrub test was performed on each sample by rubbing the sample with the emollient embedded sample substrate for a set number of passes: a. Foundation: 5 passes b. Eyeliner: 3 strokes c. Mascara: 30 passes 8. A spectrophotometer was used to read each silicone strip after the scrub test to determine the resulting color level. The net change in color measured between the first spectrophotometer reading and the second spectrophotometer reading is referred to as "ΔE."
[0076] Example 1B - Neat Emollient Screening In Vivo Testing Each emollient was also tested in vivo for cleansing efficacy in removing foundation (Revlon ColorStay™ Foundation 450 Mocha), eyeliner (L'Oreal Paris Infallible Never Fail Eyeliner, Black 511), and mascara (CoverGirl LashBlast Fusion Water Resistant Mascara 885 very back).
[0077] The general in vivo testing procedure employs a protocol that can be described as follows: Two panels of human individuals were used: P1 and P2 Three 1-inch circles were drawn 1.5 inches apart on the palmar forearms of both panels. A makeup formulation (0.001g of foundation, 0.002g of eyeliner, and 0.015g of mascara) was applied to the circle and allowed to dry for 45 minutes. -Took a photo of the dirty circle that was not wiped off Approximately 0.015-0.020g of undiluted emollient was applied and wiped back and forth across the embossed sample substrate for 15 seconds. -Wipe once with a cotton pad and take a photo of the wiped circle A second wipe was made on a clean area of the cotton pad and a second photograph was taken of the wiped circle. Panelists were asked to rank the top five samples from 1 to 5 for cleansing efficacy, with rank 1 being considered the most effective cleansing product and rank 5 being considered the least effective cleansing product; no rankings below the top five were given.
[0078] Following the in vitro and in vivo procedures described above, several undiluted emollients were tested for their cleansing efficacy. Table 1 below shows the results of these in vitro and in vivo tests. Note that the combination of PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate and isohexadecane was not tested in vivo because it was determined that it did not contribute to makeup removal when PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate was evaluated as a single emollient. In addition, polymer ester (sold by Croda as ModiSurf Lift) was not tested in vitro due to its primary application in home care and the domestic space. PPG-3 benzyl ether ethylhexanoate was further tested in a separate consumer test, but this composition was not further tested.
[0079] [Table 1]
[0080] The above testing showed that isopropyl isostearate, isohexadecane, and decyl isostearate (deblended decyl isostearate (and) isostearyl isostearate) performed consistently well in cleansing efficacy and exhibited good skin feel. Based on the promising test results, these three emollients were selected as the primary base undiluted emollients for further testing as described below.
[0081] Example 2 - Undiluted Emollient Blend Testing Various emollients were blended in an equivalent ratio (1:1:1 by weight of active emollient) and tested for cleansing efficacy and skin feel. The emollients tested included isopropyl isostearate (sold as Crodamol™ IPIS), diisostearyl adipate (sold as Liquiwax™ DISA), PPG-3 isostearyl methyl ether (sold as Arlamol™ LST), PPG-3 benzyl ether ethylhexanoate (sold as Crodamol™ SFX), decyl isostearate (and) isostearyl isostearate (sold as Crodamol™ SSA), PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate (sold as Crodamol™ STS), di-PPG-3 myristyl ether adipate (sold as Cromollient™ DP3-A), dioctyldodecyl dodecanedioate (sold as Liquiwax™ DIADD) in various blends.
[0082] Various emollient blends were tested in vitro and in vivo to determine their efficacy in removing foundation (Revlon ColorStay™ Foundation 450 Mocha), eyeliner (L'Oreal Paris Infallible Never Fail Eyeliner, Black 511), and mascara (CoverGirl LashBlast Fushion Water Resistant Mascara 885 Very Black). The in vivo testing performed followed the procedures outlined in Example 1 above. The efficacy results of the blends are set forth in Table 2 below.
[0083] [Table 2]
[0084] Based on the in vivo and in vitro tests conducted, Liquiwax™ DISA was discontinued due to a perceived sticky feel and poor cleansing efficacy against foundation and powder. Liquiwax™ DIADD was discontinued due to its performance against foundation. Crodamol™ STS and Liquiwax™ DIADD were discontinued due to their performance against mascara. Cromollient™ DP3-A was discontinued due to its sticky feel. Arlamol™ LST was discontinued due to its performance against mascara.
[0085] The undiluted emollient blend of Crodamol™ IPIS + Crodamol™ SSA + Crodamol™ SFX (i.e., isopropyl isostearate + isostearyl isostearate + PPG-3 benzyl ether ethylhexanoate) was selected as the primary emollient blend for further formulation testing because in vitro testing it demonstrated net change ΔE values of 14.6 and 16.6 for foundation and mascara, respectively, and in two separate in vivo foundation and mascara tests it was rated #1 by three panelists and only one panelist scored in the bottom five.
[0086] Example 3: Compositions containing various emollient blends To determine the cleansing efficacy of emollient-containing compositions, various compositions were prepared. Each composition contained (i) an aqueous phase, (ii) a first oil phase containing an emollient blend, and (iii) a second oil phase. Each composition was prepared and tested for removal of various makeup products, including foundation (Revlon ColorStay™ Foundation 450 Mocha), eyeliner (L'Oreal Paris Infallible Never Fail Eyeliner, Black 511), and mascara (CoverGirl LashBlast Fushion Water Resistant Mascara 885 Very Black).
[0087] The formulations tested were prepared and impregnated into sample substrate wipes, the sample substrates being as described above. The formulations were applied at 3.7 g of lotion per gram of substrate wipe. The formulations tested are listed in Table 3A below.
[0088] [Table 3]
[0089] The wipes were then evaluated by two panels of human subjects according to the procedure described below. Three 1-inch circles were drawn 1.5 inches apart on the volar forearms of two panels. A makeup formulation (0.001g of foundation, 0.002g of eyeliner, and 0.015g of mascara) was applied to the circle and allowed to dry for 45 minutes. Each sample substrate impregnated wipe (Examples 1-6) was prepared and provided to the subjects. Panelists were asked to wipe an area three times with the wipe and individually evaluate the samples. Each sample was ranked with a score of 1 to 7, with a score of 1 being considered the best or most desirable wipe composition and a score of 7 being the least desirable wipe composition.
[0090] [Table 4]
[0091] Examples 1, 2, and 4-6 were deemed to not meet optimal cleansing efficacy based on the panel data. Example 3 demonstrated sufficient cleansing efficacy and was ranked and scored #1, but due to overall requirements, this formulation was not further tested.
[0092] The inventors also tested the individual components of Crodamol™ SSA and determined that decyl isostearate in Crodamol™ SSA provided improved cleansing efficacy against makeup. Finally, based on the examples described herein, isohexadecane was selected for further testing based on its ability to remove mascara as demonstrated in the "neat" emollient test above.
[0093] Example 4 - Compositions with various component ratios Based on the results of above-mentioned undiluted and composition test, further compositions are tested for efficacy.Specifically, different ratios of emollients are tested to determine whether makeup removal and / or other skin feel criteria are affected by the ratio of ingredients.Prepared compositions as shown in the following Table 4A.The ratio shown in the table refers to the weight ratio of the three emollients listed in the table.
[0094] [Table 5]
[0095] Each composition was prepared and contained (i) an aqueous phase, (ii) a first oil phase containing an emollient blend, and (iii) a second oil phase, where the first oil phase contained a combination of three emollients as set forth in Table 4A above.
[0096] Tables 4B and 4C below provide exemplary ingredient levels for the second oil phase and the water phase, respectively. The amounts of the second oil phase and the water phase may vary depending on the desired composition.
[0097] [Table 6]
[0098] [Table 7]
[0099] Examples 7-14, listed in Table 4A, were prepared containing the three component phases listed in Tables 4A, 4B, and 4C. The formulations tested are listed in Table 4D below.
[0100] [Table 8]
[0101] The compositions listed in Table 4D were prepared and tested for in vitro cleansing ability. A comparative sample was also tested, including a cleansing composition from a commercially available silicone-containing cleanser (Neutrogena™ Makeup Removing Cleanser Towelettes). Four tests were performed for each composition. A white, high-density polypropylene (HDPP) tip was applied with a different makeup sample: either 0.015 g of Revlon Colorstay 450 Mocha Foundation or 0.015 g of Hydro Boost Waterproof Mascara Black. The makeup was applied to a 1-inch circular diameter area. The makeup was allowed to dry for 1 hour.
[0102] The oil phase was combined with the water phase separately and the phases were blended at room temperature. The water phase was mixed until homogenized. Once homogenized, the water phase was added to the oil phase and the resulting combination was mixed together.
[0103] For each composition, including the comparative composition, a sample substrate (defined above) was wetted onto each sample substrate wipe, measuring 7.2 x 7.4 inches, by adding 3.7 g of the formulation per gram of fabric. The wetted wipe was placed on a 50 g sled attached to an Instron instrument (Instr Met Corporation, IM 1122_4585). The test settings for the Instron instrument were as follows: Number of cycles: 4, 50 in / min, Endpoint 1: 6.0, Endpoint 2: 0.0, and hold time: 3 seconds.
[0104] Images were taken using a Nikon camera (Nikon D800 with AF-Micro NIKKOR 60mm 1:28 GED lens) at a fixed distance of 7.3 inches using an X-Pol filter. Images were taken (i) before makeup application, (ii) after makeup application, and (iii) after makeup removal. Images were analyzed using Matlab, which calculates the change in LAB value between baseline and after makeup application and makeup removal from the center of the circle of applied makeup. The makeup removal rate was calculated for each chip and is listed in Table 5 below. It should be noted that the comparative sample was run several times, similar to Example 13, and various results are reported below.
[0105] [Table 9]
[0106] As shown in the in vitro measurements for the cleansing efficacy test described above, Example 13 scored statistically equivalent to or better than commercially available silicone-containing cleansers, and Example 13 was determined to be the most effective cleansing system.
[0107] Example 5: Further composition modifications Example 13 above was deemed promising and several modifications were made to this formulation and tested for efficacy to determine the impact of some of the modifications. The results of these modified formulations are described herein.
[0108] Example 13 was prepared with the modification of removing hexyl glycol and glycerol 767. The resulting composition was tested in vitro (using the methods described in Example 1) to determine makeup removal efficacy. The resulting composition was determined to have reduced makeup removal efficacy.
[0109] Example 13 was prepared with the modification of increasing the Glycerox 767 to a level of 3% by weight of the composition, which was found to increase the make-up removal efficacy for foundation, but was found to increase the sticky feel and overall cost of the cleansing composition.
[0110] Example 13 was prepared with the modification of adding Tween 20 at a concentration of 0.25%. The addition of this ingredient was found to increase formulation stability.
[0111] Example 13 was prepared with a modification in which the total amount of emollient was reduced to a level of 3.5% (while still maintaining the emollient ratios set forth in Example 13. It was found that at this lower level of emollient overall, the resulting modified cleansing composition maintained its effectiveness in removing makeup for all three makeups tested.
[0112] Example 13 was prepared by modifying it to include a 2% level of dimethicone / trisiloxane, and the resulting modified composition was found to have improved skin feel and increased mascara removal efficacy.
[0113] Example 13 was prepared with the modification of adding dimethicone at a level of 0.5%. The resulting composition was found to improve the skin feel of the composition.
[0114] Example 6: Emulsifier Various emulsifiers were tested in the formulation, specifically Example 13. Example 13 was prepared using various emulsifiers as set forth in Table 6 below. The resulting formulations were tested for stability and in vitro and / or in vivo make-up removal using the in vitro method described above in Example 4 and the in vivo method described above in Example 1.
[0115] [Table 10]
[0116] Emulsifiers 1A and 1B were found to pass formulation stability, provide strong makeup removal, and pass skin feel evaluations. Emulsifier 2 passed formulation stability but was found to provide weaker makeup removal than Emulsifier 1 and to have the least desirable skin feel compared to Emulsifier 1. Emulsifier 3 did not demonstrate stability because the formulation separated slowly. Emulsifier 3 provided strong skin feel but significantly worse makeup removal than Emulsifier 1. Emulsifier 4 failed stability because it separated rapidly. Emulsifier 5 failed stability because it separated overnight. Emulsifier 6 failed stability because it separated rapidly. Emulsifier 7 passed stability, and the resulting formulation was deemed the most stable. Emulsifier 7 also passed the skin feel test but provided significantly worse makeup removal than Emulsifier 1. Emulsifier 8 failed stability because it separated too quickly. However, while it passed the skin feel test, it was not as effective at removing makeup as Emulsifier 1. Emulsifier 9 failed stability because it separated overnight. Emulsifier 9 was tested for skin feel and passed, but due to its lack of stability, Emulsifier 9 was not tested for makeup removal.
[0117] [Embodiment] (1) A cleansing composition comprising a fluid composition embedded in a substrate, a. the fluid composition i. a cleansing blend comprising a first stearate ester, a second stearate ester, and a branched hydrocarbon, wherein the first stearate ester and the second stearate ester are different from each other; ii. a blend of sucrose fatty acid esters; iii. water; iv. a carbomer interpolymer thickener; and Including, b. A cleansing composition wherein the substrate comprises a nonwoven wipe. (2) The cleansing composition of claim 1, wherein the first stearate ester, the second stearate ester, and the branched hydrocarbon are present in a weight ratio of about 2:2:1. (3) The cleansing composition of claim 1, wherein the first stearate ester comprises an isostearate. (4) The cleansing composition of claim 1, wherein the first stearate ester comprises isopropyl isostearate. (5) The cleansing composition of claim 1, wherein the second stearate ester comprises decyl isostearate.
[0118] (6) The cleansing composition of claim 1, wherein the second stearate ester comprises highly mono-branched decyl isostearate. (7) The cleansing composition of claim 1, wherein the branched hydrocarbon comprises isohexadecane. (8) The cleansing composition of claim 1, wherein the first stearate ester is present in an amount of about 1.0% to about 3.0% by weight of the fluid composition, the second stearate ester is present in an amount of about 1.0% to about 3.0% by weight of the fluid composition, and the branched hydrocarbon is present in an amount of about 0.5% to about 1.5% by weight of the fluid composition. (9) The cleansing composition of embodiment 1, wherein the carbomer interpolymer thickener comprises an acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer. (10) The cleansing composition of claim 1, wherein the thickening agent is present in an amount of about 0.12% to about 0.18% by weight of the fluid composition.
[0119] (11) The cleansing composition of claim 1, wherein the blend of sucrose fatty acid esters is present in a total amount of about 0.5% to about 1.25% by weight of the fluid composition. (12) The cleansing composition of claim 1, wherein the blend of sucrose fatty acid esters is present in a total amount of about 0.5% to about 1.25% by weight of the fluid composition. (13) The cleansing composition of claim 1, wherein the blend of sucrose fatty acid esters is sucrose cocoate. 14. The cleansing composition of claim 1, wherein the fluid composition further comprises a glycol. 15. The cleansing composition of claim 14, wherein the glycol is hexylene glycol.
[0120] 16. The cleansing composition of claim 14, wherein the glycol is present in an amount of about 1.0% to about 2.0% by weight of the fluid composition. 17. The cleansing composition of claim 1, wherein the fluid composition further comprises an emulsifier. 18. The cleansing composition of claim 1, wherein the emulsifier is present in an amount of about 0.75% to about 2.5% by weight of the fluid composition. (19) The cleansing composition of claim 1, wherein the emulsifier comprises PEG-6 caprylic / capric glyceride. (20) A cleansing composition comprising a fluid composition embedded in a substrate, a. the fluid composition i. a cleansing blend comprising a first stearate ester present in an amount of about 1.0% to about 3.0% by weight of the fluid composition, a second stearate ester present in an amount of about 1.0% to about 3.0% by weight of the fluid composition, and a branched hydrocarbon present in an amount of about 0.5% to about 1.5% by weight of the fluid composition, wherein the first stearate ester and the second stearate ester are different from one another; ii. a blend of sucrose fatty acid esters; iii. water; iv. a carbomer interpolymer thickener; and Including, b. A cleansing composition wherein the substrate comprises a nonwoven wipe.
[0121] (21) A method for removing cosmetics from a user's skin, comprising: a. contacting the surface of the skin with a cleansing composition comprising a fluid composition embedded in a substrate, i. the fluid composition comprises: 1. A cleansing blend comprising a first stearate ester, a second stearate ester, and a branched hydrocarbon, wherein the first stearate ester and the second stearate ester are different from each other; 2. A blend of sucrose fatty acid esters, 3. Water and 4. A carbomer interpolymer thickener; Including, ii. the substrate comprises a nonwoven wipe; b. rubbing the surface of the skin with the substrate to remove the cosmetic product from the surface of the skin. 22. The method of claim 21, wherein the cosmetic product is selected from the group consisting of mascara, foundation, eyeliner, and lipstick.
Claims
1. A fluid composition for cleansing, comprising: i. a cleansing blend comprising isopropyl isostearate present in an amount from 1.0% to 3.0% by weight of the fluid composition, decyl isostearate present in an amount from 1.0% to 3.0% by weight of the fluid composition, and isohexadecane present in an amount from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight of the fluid composition; ii. sucrose palmate present in an amount of 0.5% to 1.25% by weight of the fluid composition; iii. Water; iv. a thickener; Including, A fluid composition wherein said thickener is an acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.
2. 10. The fluid composition of claim 1, wherein the isopropyl isostearate, decyl isostearate, and isohexadecane are present in a weight ratio of from 1.1:1.1:1 to 2:2:
1.
3. 10. The fluid composition of claim 1, wherein the isopropyl isostearate, decyl isostearate, and isohexadecane are present in a weight ratio of 2:2:
1.
4. 10. The fluid composition of claim 1, wherein the acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is present in an amount of 0.12% to 0.18% by weight of the fluid composition.
5. The fluid composition of any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the fluid composition further comprises a glycol.
6. The fluid composition of claim 5 wherein the glycol is hexylene glycol.
7. The fluid composition of claim 5, wherein the glycol is present in an amount of from 1.0% to 2.0% by weight of the fluid composition.
8. The fluid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the fluid composition further comprises an emulsifier.
9. 9. The fluid composition of claim 8, wherein the emulsifier is present in an amount of from 0.75% to 2.5% by weight of the fluid composition.
10. 9. The fluid composition of claim 8, wherein the emulsifier comprises PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides.
11. A fluid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for removing cosmetics from the skin of a user.
12. The fluid composition of claim 11 for removing said cosmetics using a substrate comprising said fluid composition.
13. 1. A method for removing cosmetic products from a user's skin, comprising: contacting the surface of the skin with a substrate comprising the fluid composition of any one of claims 1 to 12; b) rubbing the surface of the skin with the substrate to remove the cosmetic product from the surface of the skin.
14. 14. The method of claim 13, wherein the cosmetic product is selected from the group consisting of mascara, foundation, eyeliner, and lipstick.