Solid anhydrous composition containing ethyl cellulose, alkyl benzoate, and silicone oil, and method of using the same

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid composition for making up human keratin substances, in particular the skin and lips, comprising ethyl cellulose; at least a first oil selected from esters of benzoic acid and C8-C 20 a first alcohol; at least a second oil selected from C 10 -C 26 an alcohol, optionally a polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from esters other than the first oil, at least a third oil selected from non-volatile phenylated silicones containing at least one dimethicone fragment, optionally at least a fourth oil which is a non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oil or a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil without dimethicone fragments, the oil content being such that the mass ratio of the first oil, the second oil and optionally the fourth oil / the third oil is 1 or less, relates to a solid composition. The present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin or lips, which process comprises applying the above composition.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a solid composition for making up keratinous substances (in particular the skin and / or the lips), which contains ethyl cellulose, at least one benzoic acid ester oil, at least one liquid fatty alcohol, and at least one phenylated silicone oil containing dimethicone fragments, at specific contents. Another main subject of the present invention is a process for making up and / or caring for in particular the lips, which is constituted by using such a composition.

[0002] More specifically, the present invention relates to a composition for making up the skin and / or the lips for which a shiny finish is desired.

Background Art

[0003] In particular, liquid or solid anhydrous compositions specialized in giving a shiny finish to human keratinous substances such as the skin and the lips are obtained from mixtures containing a relatively high content of oil (in particular non-volatile oil) and also colorants (such as pearlescent agents and / or pigments, etc.).

[0004] In the case of fluid compositions, it is necessary to ensure the stability of the composition over time, to exhibit a viscosity sufficient to keep in suspension in particular the colorants, and to prevent the composition from flowing out beyond the range in which it is being handled or made up during application. The viscosity of this composition must also not limit the migration of the composition after application to the wrinkles and fine lines at the edge of the lips. On the other hand, in order to obtain a sufficiently thin and uniform adherent layer, the viscosity of the composition must be kept such that it can be applied as desired with good slipperiness.

[0005] In the case of a solid composition, it is frequently practiced to add a structuring agent (e.g., wax, etc.) to the above-mentioned mixture. This compound must be sufficiently firm so that the composition can be molded into a rod shape without impairing its usability. The reason is that the composition must be able to disintegrate its structure so that an appropriate amount can be immediately applied to the lips. An anhydrous makeup composition containing a first oil (e.g., octyldodecanol), at least one non-volatile silicone oil that is incompatible with the first oil, and ethyl cellulose is known, for example, from International Publication No. WO 2017 / 108584 pamphlet.

Prior Art Documents

Patent Documents

[0006]

Patent Document 1

Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0007] This composition enables the obtaining of a shiny deposit that remains over a long period. However, it is desirable to further improve the transfer resistance of the obtained deposit without degrading the gloss or comfort properties of the obtained deposit, or increasing the stickiness, or introducing a tight or dry feeling to the lips to which this composition is applied.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0008] These problems and the like are solved by the present invention. Therefore, the subject of the present invention is a solid cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for human keratin substances (especially the lips), * at least ethyl cellulose, * at least a first oil, an ester of benzoic acid and a preferably saturated C8 - C 20 monoalcohol, preferably C8 - C18 and mixtures thereof; * At least a second oil, C 10 ~C 26 a second oil which is a polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from alcohols and optionally selected from esters other than the first oil; at least a third oil, the third oil being chosen from non-volatile phenylated silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment; *Optionally, at least a fourth oil, the fourth oil being a non-phenylated silicone oil or a phenylated silicone oil that does not contain dimethicone fragments. Including, * the oil content is such that the mass ratio of the first oil, the second oil and, optionally, the fourth oil / third oil is less than or equal to 1; It is a solid cosmetic composition.

[0009] Another subject of the invention is a process for making up human keratinous substances, in particular the skin or the lips, comprising applying a composition as defined above.

[0010] The compositions according to the invention exhibit the advantage of being long-term stable and easy to apply, while improving the slippage, and the deposit obtained is clear, uniform, non-sticky and does not migrate into wrinkles and fine lines, especially those around the lips and eyes (crow's feet).

[0011] The deposit obtained is finer, despite the high content of non-volatile oils. It makes it possible to obtain a glossy makeup result and has improved wearability. It is also comfortable and does not leave a feeling of dryness or tightness.

[0012] Finally, the transfer resistance of the deposit obtained by applying the composition according to the invention is improved. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0013] In the following, the phrase "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more". The phrases "from... to..." and "in the range of... to..." should be understood to mean that the limit points are included, unless otherwise specified.

[0014] The temperatures mentioned in this description are indicated at atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10 5 Pa).

[0015] The composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, which means in particular that this composition contains a physiologically acceptable medium, or in other words, it contains a medium particularly suitable for the application of the composition of the present invention to human keratinous substances (most specifically, the skin and lips).

[0016] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally also adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is applied and to the form in which the composition is packaged therein.

[0017] The composition according to the present invention preferably contains less than 5% by weight, more specifically 2% by weight, or even less than 1% by weight of water, based on the total mass of the composition. Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention is anhydrous. The term "anhydrous" means in particular that water is not intentionally added to the composition, although it may be present in trace form in the various compounds used.

[0018] The composition according to the present invention is in solid form. The term "solid" means in particular a composition that does not flow under its own mass at ambient temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a stick. More specifically, the term "stick" is understood to mean a pharmaceutical form, and its hardness can be measured according to the following "cheese wire" method.

[0019] Hardness measurement protocol: Store the rod-shaped composition at 20 °C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

[0020] This measurement is carried out at 20 °C and consists of cutting the rod horizontally by moving a hard tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 μm at a speed of 100 mm / min against the rod of the product (preferably cylindrical).

[0021] The hardness (expressed in Nm -1 ) of a sample of the composition of the present invention is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine sold by Indelco-Chatillon.

[0022] This measurement is repeated 3 times and then the average is taken. The average (denoted as Y) of the three values read using the above-mentioned tensile testing machine is expressed in grams. This average is converted to newtons and then divided by L (representing the maximum value of the distance through which the wire has passed). In the case of a cylindrical rod, L corresponds to the diameter (in meters).

[0023] The hardness is converted to Nm -1 according to the following formula: (Y × 10 -3 × 9.8) / L. According to this measurement method, when the composition according to the present invention is in solid form, it preferably has a hardness of 20 - 150 Nm -1 at 20 °C and under atmospheric pressure, more preferably 40 - 120 Nm -1 .

[0024] Ethyl cellulose As already shown, the composition according to the present invention contains ethyl cellulose.

[0025] Ethyl cellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether containing chains composed of β-anhydroglucose units linked to each other via acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit contains three replaceable hydroxyl groups, and all or some of these hydroxyl groups are capable of reacting according to the following reaction: RONa + R’Cl → ROR’ + NaCl (wherein R represents a cellulose group and R’ represents an ethyl group).

[0026] When all three hydroxyl groups are substituted, the degree of substitution of each anhydroglucose unit is 3. In other words, the alkoxy group content is 54.88%.

[0027] The ethyl cellulose polymer used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably a polymer in which the degree of substitution of ethoxy groups is in the range of 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit. In other words, it is a polymer containing an ethoxy group content in the range of 44% to 50%.

[0028] The ethyl cellulose used in the composition according to the present invention is more specifically found in powder form.

[0029] This is sold, for example, by Dow Chemicals under the trade name Ethocel Standard (in particular, including Ethocel Standard 7 FP Premium and Ethocel Standard 100 FP Premium). Other commercially available products (for example, those sold by Ashland, Inc. under the trade names Aqualon EC type-K, type-N, and type-T, preferably type-N, such as N7 and N100) are particularly suitable for the practice of the present invention.

[0030] Advantageously, the ethyl cellulose content is in the range of 1% to 10% by mass, preferably in the range of 2% to 6% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0031] The composition according to the present invention comprises, in addition to ethyl cellulose, at least one specific benzoic acid ester (oil 1), at least a second oil which is a polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil other than oil 1, and this polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil contains at least one fatty alcohol, a second oil (oil 2), at least one non-volatile phenylated silicone oil (oil 3) that does not contain dimethicone fragments, and optionally at least one different non-volatile silicone oil (oil 4). The content of each of the oils in this composition is such that the mass ratio of the first oil, the second oil, and, if necessary, the fourth oil / the third oil is 0.5 to 1, more specifically 0.7 to 1.

[0032] First oil of benzoic acid ester The composition according to the present invention comprises benzoic acid and, preferably saturated, an ester with a C8 - C 20 monoalcohol, preferably an ester with a C8 - C 18 monoalcohol, and at least a first oil selected from these mixtures (therefore, this compound is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure).

[0033] More specifically, the first oil is selected from C 12 - C 15 alkyl benzoate (C12 - 15Alkyl Benzoate - INCI name), C 16 - C 17 alkyl benzoate (C16 - 17Alkyl Benzoate - INCI name), stearyl benzoate, isostearyl benzoate, ethylhexyl benzoate, and octyldodecyl benzoate, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from C 12 - C 15 alkyl benzoate.

[0034] Advantageously, the content of the first oil (C) is 8% to 30% by mass, more specifically 10% to 25% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0035] Second oil of polar non-volatile hydrocarbon As shown above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a second oil, which is a second oil that is a polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0036] The term "oil" is understood to mean a lipophilic compound that is liquid at ambient temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa).

[0037] Advantageously, this oil is immiscible with water. The term "immiscible with water" is understood to mean that, under normal temperature and pressure conditions, when an equal amount of water and oil are mixed and stirred, a stable solution containing only a single phase is not formed. The observation is carried out visually or using a phase-contrast microscope on 100 g of the mixture obtained after thoroughly mixing, if necessary using a Rayneri blender, to generate vortices in the mixture (as a guide, 200 - 1000 rpm), and after allowing the resulting mixture to stand in a closed flask at ambient temperature for 24 hours before the observation.

[0038] The term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil that is essentially formed from or composed of carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms, and optionally one or more oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms and does not contain other heteroatoms (for example, one or more silicon atoms). Therefore, this hydrocarbon oil is different from silicone oil. It may contain alcohol groups, ester groups, ether groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, and / or amide groups.

[0039] The polar oil for the purposes of the present invention contains at least one oxygen atom or nitrogen atom in addition to carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms, and preferably contains at least one oxygen atom.

[0040] The term "non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. As an example, the vapor pressure can be measured by a static method according to this vapor pressure or by an effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetric measurement (OCDE standard 104).

[0041] The composition according to the present invention comprises, as the second oil, at least one C 10 ~C 26 alcohol and, optionally, at least one oil selected from esters other than the first oil.

[0042] C 10 ~C 26 alcohol This alcohol is, more specifically, a fatty alcohol. This alcohol is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. This alcohol preferably contains a hydrocarbon-based group containing 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. This alcohol is preferably monohydroxylated.

[0043] Preferably, the alcohol is selected from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from octyldodecanol.

[0044] non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil having an ester functional group The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based second oil may also include at least one ester oil other than the first oil.

[0045] Advantageously, this non-volatile hydrocarbon-based ester oil is selected from hydrocarbon-based compounds containing one or more ester functional groups and at least one aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, and the total number of carbon atoms is preferably at least 12. In addition, this ester oil may optionally contain one or more ether functional groups or hydroxyl functional groups.

[0046] Among suitable ester oils are mono- and diesters optionally containing one or two ether groups; aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched triesters optionally containing 1 to 3 ether groups; tetraesters; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids with diols; esters and polyesters of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acids with dimer diols or monoalcohols; vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0047] * Aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched mono- or diesters, more specifically mono- or diesters containing 12 to 80 carbon atoms and optionally containing one or two ether groups. Among compounds of this type are mono- or diesters obtained from, on the one hand, a saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acid, particularly containing 4 to 28, preferably 4 to 24 carbon atoms and optionally containing at least one free hydroxyl, and, on the other hand, a saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol or polyol containing 2 to 26, particularly 3 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups; the number of carbon atoms is at least 12, preferably at least 16. In addition, this ester may optionally contain one or two ether groups and optionally one or two hydroxyl groups.

[0048] As an example, the following may be mentioned: 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, glyceryl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, capric acid, caprylic acid, and a mixture of esters of alcohol (C 12 ~C 18 alcohol), 2-octyldodecyl elcate, oleyl elcate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl maleate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl adipate, or a mixture thereof.

[0049] Optionally hydroxylated esters of C2-C8 monocarboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids and C2-C8 alcohols may also be mentioned. Particularly suitable for the practice of the present invention are monoesters of optionally hydroxylated C2-C8 carboxylic acids and C2-C8 alcohols, and diesters of optionally hydroxylated C2-C8 dicarboxylic acids and C2-C8 alcohols, for example, diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate, or bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate.

[0050] Saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acids, in particular monocarboxylic acids containing 4 to 28 carbon atoms, and aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched esters of diols, in particular glycols, in particular C2 - C5, glycerol or polyglycerol may also be mentioned. For example, the following may be mentioned: propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monolinoleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, polyglyceryl - 2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl - 3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] * Non - aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched triesters containing up to 80 carbon atoms and optionally containing 1 to 3 ether groups. Preferred for the present invention are esters obtained from aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2 - C 40 preferably C4 - C 40 monocarboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids and C2 - C 40 preferably C3 - C 40 polyols or monoalcohols, said polyester optionally containing at least one free hydroxyl.

[0052] For example, in addition to triacetin, triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated C4 - C 36 fatty acids, more specifically, triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 - C 20 fatty acids, for example, triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid may be used; in particular, saturated triglycerides, for example, glyceryl caprylate / caprate, for example, products sold in the DUB MCT range from Stearinerie Dubois, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, C18~36 Triglycerides of acids, such as those sold under the reference name DUB TGI 24 from Stearinerie Dubois, or glyceryl triisostearate, may be mentioned.

[0053] Triesters of glycerol or polyglycerol with monocarboxylic acids, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate or glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate), may also be mentioned.

[0054] As an example, C2-C9 acids containing 3 carboxyl functional groups optionally hydroxylated, and C2-C 20 Oils containing 3 ester functional groups optionally hydroxylated or acetylated with a monoalcohol may also be mentioned. Citric acid esters, such as triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, tributyl acetylcitrate, as well as tridecyl trimellitate, and mixtures thereof, may be mentioned.

[0055] * Tetraesters, in particular tetraesters containing 35-80 carbon atoms and optionally 1-3 ether groups, such as tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol with monocarboxylic acids, such as pentaerythrityl tetra pelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, or pentaerythrityl tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate).

[0056] * Polyesters obtained by the condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids with diols, such as those described in the French Patent Application No. 0853634, in particular, those obtained by the condensation of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol, etc. In this regard, the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name of Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers and these esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA with the INCI name of Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, can be particularly mentioned.

[0057] * Esters of dimer diols or polyols with monocarboxylic acids and / or dicarboxylic acids. For example, esters of dimer diols and fatty acids, and esters of dimer diols and dicarboxylic acid dimers, in particular, esters that can be obtained from dicarboxylic acid dimers derived from the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, especially C8 - C 34 、especially C 12 ~C 22 、especially C 16 ~C 20 、more specifically, esters that can be obtained from dicarboxylic acid dimers derived from the dimerization of C 18 . For example, the ester of dilinoleic diacid and dimer dilinoleyl alcohol (INCI name: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate), such as those sold by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names of Lusplan DD-DA5 (registered trademark) and DD-DA7 (registered trademark), can be mentioned.

[0058] Also suitable are esters derived from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid, and at least one dicarboxylic acid, as described in particular in US Patent No. 7,317,068. This polyol more specifically contains from 2 to 20 carbon atoms and from 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, and is preferably pentaerythritol. More specifically, this monocarboxylic acid contains from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more specifically from 6 to 22 carbon atoms (e.g., preferably stearic acid, isostearic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, or combinations thereof); with respect to aromatic, unsaturated or saturated, straight-chain or branched dicarboxylic acids, this dicarboxylic acid more specifically contains from 4 to 10 carbon atoms and is preferably adipic acid. As an example, pentaerythrityl isostearate / caprate / caprylate / adipate, sold under the name Crodamol L in particular by Croda, and pentaerythrityl adipate / caprate / caprylate / heptanoate, sold under the name Lexfeel 700 EX-LO-MB by Inolex, may be mentioned.

[0059] * Vegetable oils, such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, plukenetia oil, coriander oil, macadamia oil, asparagus oil, argan oil, sesame oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, soybean oil, stone oil (apricot kernel oil), sweet almond oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, pepo pumpkin oil, croton oil, matsuyoi oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and mixtures thereof;

[0060] The content of the second oil, a polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, is advantageously in the range from 8% to 20% by weight, preferably in the range from 8% to less than 20% by weight, more specifically in the range from 9% to 15% by weight, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0061] According to an advantageous variant of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one C as described above 10 ~C 26 alcohol in a content ranging from 8% to 20% by mass, more specifically from 9% to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0062] More specifically, (ethyl cellulose / (ethyl cellulose + C 10 ~C 26 alcohol) mass ratio × 100 is at least 10%, more specifically at least 15%, and advantageously does not exceed 60%, preferably does not exceed 50%.

[0063] A third oil of non-volatile silicone The composition according to the present invention comprises at least a third oil selected from non-volatile phenylated silicones containing at least one dimethicone fragment.

[0064] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular containing at least one Si-O group.

[0065] The term "phenylated" defines that the oil contains at least one phenyl group in its structure.

[0066] The term "dimethicone fragment" refers to a divalent siloxane group in which its silicon atom has two methyl groups, and this group is not located at the end of this molecule. This can be represented by the following formula: -Si(CH3)2-O-.

[0067] Preferably, this silicone does not contain C2-C3 alkylene oxide groups or glycerolated groups.

[0068] Preferably, the composition comprises at least a third oil selected from compounds having the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof, preferably Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone.

[0069] Diphenyl Dimethicone is sold, in particular, by Shin Etsu under the names KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, and KF-50-100CS. Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone is sold, for example, by Wacker Chemie under the names Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20.

[0070] More specifically, the composition according to the present invention comprises 20% to 40% by mass, preferably 25% to 35% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0071] Optional fourth oil of non-volatile silicone According to one variant of the present invention, the composition comprises a fourth oil of at least a non-volatile silicone that is either phenylated or non-phenylated without dimethicone fragments.

[0072] Representative examples of such non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxane and alkyldimethylicone.

[0073] It should be noted that "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).

[0074] Preferably, this non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxane and at least one C2-C 24It is selected from alkyl dimethicones containing an alkyl group and mixtures thereof.

[0075] Regarding non-volatile phenylated silicone oils that do not contain dimethicone fragments, compounds having the following INCI names can be mentioned: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane (either alone or as a mixture).

[0076] Therefore, this oil can be selected from dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, and diphenylsiloxy phenyltrimethicone (either alone or as a mixture).

[0077] Examples of non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils suitable for the practice of the present invention include those sold by Wacker under the Belsil DM range, those sold by Dow Corning under the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid range, and those sold by Shin Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the KF-96 A range.

[0078] Alkyl dimethicone can be sold, for example, by Evonik Goldschmidt under the product reference symbols Abil Wax 9800 and Abil Wax 9801, or by Dow Corning under Dowsil 2502 Cosmetic Fluid and Dowsil 2503 Cosmetic Wax, or can be a mixture thereof.

[0079] This phenylated silicone is sold, in particular, under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane) and Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (phenyltrimethicone) from Dow Corning; diphenyldimethylsilicone, for example, products sold from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. such as KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, and KF-50-100CS, or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A.

[0080] Whether the content of the fourth oil, which is a non-volatile silicone that is phenylated or not without dimethicone fragments, satisfies the requirements regarding the mass ratios of the above-described oils 1, 2, and 4 / oil 3 of 1 or less when this composition contains this fourth oil.

[0081] Advantageously, the content of the fourth oil is 5% by mass or less, more specifically 1% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition when this composition contains this fourth oil.

[0082] Non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil The composition according to the present invention may optionally contain at least one non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0083] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar oil" is intended to mean an oil selected from hydrocarbons (in other words, compounds containing only carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms).

[0084] Preferably, this non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil can be selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral origin, plant origin, or synthetic origin, and can be selected, for example, from the following: - Liquid paraffin, - Squalane, especially squalane of plant origin, - Icosane, - A mixture of saturated straight-chain hydrocarbons, more specifically, a mixture of C 15 ~C 28 For example, a mixture with the following INCI names: C15-19 Alkane (C15-19 alkane), C18-21 Alkane (C18-21 alkane), C21-28 Alkane (C21-28 alkane), such as Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 sold by Total, and Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC - Hydrogenated polybutene or non-hydrogenated polybutene, for example, products of the Indopol range sold by Ineos Oligomers - Hydrogenated polyisobutene or non-hydrogenated polyisobutene, for example, non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by Nippon Oil & Fats - Hydrogenated polydecene or non-hydrogenated polydecene, for example, non-volatile compounds of the Silkflo range sold by Ineos, Dekanex from IMCD - And mixtures thereof.

[0085] When the composition contains this oil, the content of the non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil accounts for 0.1% to 15% by mass, more specifically 1% to 12% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0086] Volatile oil According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition may also contain at least one volatile oil.

[0087] This volatile oil can particularly be silicone oil, hydrocarbon oil (preferably non-polar), and mixtures thereof.

[0088] The term "volatile" is understood to mean an oil whose vapor pressure at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure is 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, preferably 2.66 to 1300 Pa.

[0089] As the volatile silicone oil that can be used in the present invention, the viscosity at ambient temperature is less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (8×10 -6 m 2 / s), and in particular, linear or cyclic silicones containing 2 to 10 silicon atoms, particularly 2 to 7 silicon atoms, may be mentioned. This silicone optionally contains an alkyl group or an alkoxy group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0090] As the volatile silicone oil that can be used in the present invention, in particular, dimethicone having viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0091] Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils (preferably non-polar), volatile hydrocarbon oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned, and in particular, the following may be mentioned: - Branched C8 - C 16 alkanes, for example, C8 - C 16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and oils sold under the trade name Isopar by ExxonMobil, for example. - Linear alkanes, for example, n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the reference symbols Parafol 12 - 97 and Parafol 14 - 97, respectively, undecane - tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis Pamphlet WO 2008 / 155059, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] When the composition contains at least one further volatile oil, this content more specifically occupies from 0.1% to 15% by mass, more specifically from 1% to 12% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0093] Wax The composition according to the invention may advantageously contain at least one wax.

[0094] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound which is solid at ambient temperature (25 °C), has a reversible solid / liquid change of state, and has a melting point of 30 °C or higher, which may be up to 120 °C.

[0095] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the highest endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO standard 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, using a calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 from TA Instruments, equipped with TA Universal Analysis software.

[0096] The measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of the wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase in the range from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / min, then it is cooled from 120 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / min, and finally it is subjected to a second temperature increase in the range from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / min.

[0097] During the second temperature increase, the melting point of the solid fat substance is measured, which corresponds to the temperature of the highest endothermic peak observed in the melting curve and represents the variation of the difference in the energy absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0098] The melting enthalpy (ΔHf) of the wax corresponding to the integral of the entire obtained melting curve can also be measured. This melting enthalpy of the wax is the amount of energy required to cause the change of the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0099] The wax can be silicone and preferably can be a hydrocarbon wax. This wax can also be of plant origin, mineral origin, animal origin, and / or synthetic origin.

[0100] In particular, the wax preferably has a melting point of 35 °C or higher, and more preferably has a melting point of 40 °C or higher.

[0101] Non-polar wax For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar hydrocarbon wax" is intended to mean a wax composed only of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and containing no heteroatoms (e.g., N, O, Si, P, etc.).

[0102] Examples of non-polar waxes suitable for the present invention include, in particular, hydrocarbon waxes, such as, for example, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, polymethylene wax, polyethylene wax, and micro wax, and in particular polyethylene can be mentioned.

[0103] Polar wax The polar wax can in particular be a hydrocarbon wax or a silicone wax.

[0104] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar hydrocarbon wax" is intended to mean a wax whose chemical structure is essentially formed of, and further composed of, carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and which contains at least one heteroatom, more specifically at least one heteroatom selected from oxygen, optionally nitrogen, or a mixture thereof. Thus, polar hydrocarbon waxes can contain alcohol groups, ester groups, ether groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, and / or amide groups.

[0105] The term "silicone wax" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular an Si - O group.

[0106] According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax.

[0107] As the polar hydrocarbon wax, a wax selected from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is particularly preferred.

[0108] According to the present invention, the term "ester wax" means a wax containing at least one ester functional group. The ester wax can also be hydroxylated.

[0109] According to the present invention, the phrase "alcohol wax" is understood to mean a wax containing at least one alcohol functional group (i.e., a wax containing at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group).

[0110] In particular, as the ester wax, the following can be used alone or as a mixture: i) A wax of the formula R1COOR2, wherein R1 and R2 represent linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic chains having a number of atoms in the range of 6 to 50, particularly in the range of 10 to 50, which can contain heteroatoms, for example, can contain O or N, and the melting point of which is more specifically in the range of 30°C to 120°C. In particular, as the ester wax, C20 ~C 40 Alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used alone or as a mixture, or C 20 ~C 40 Alkyl stearate can be used. Such waxes are sold, in particular, under the names Kester Wax K 82 P (registered trademark), Hydroxypolyester K 82 P (registered trademark), Kester Wax K 80 P (registered trademark), or Kester Wax K82H from Koster Keunen. Stearyl heptanoate, and stearyl caprylate, and mixtures thereof can also be used; ii) Di(1,1,1 - trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate; iii) General formula R 3 -(-OCO-R 4 -COO-R 5 ) is a dicarboxylic acid diester wax, where R 3 and R 5 are the same or different, preferably the same, C4~C 30 alkyl group and R 4 may or may not contain one or more unsaturations, and represents a linear or branched C4~C 30 aliphatic group. Preferably, the C4~C 30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated; iv) Obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, in particular, linear or branched C8~C 32Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of fatty chains such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, or hydrogenated palm oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold in the Phytowax Castor range, such as Phytowax Castor 22L73 (registered trademark), or waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as those in the Phytowax Olive range sold by Sophim, such as Phytowax Olive 18L57. Such waxes are described, in particular, in French Patent No. 2792190; v) Partial or total esters of saturated, optionally hydroxylated C 16 ~C 30 carboxylic acids and glycerol, preferably waxes corresponding to total esters. The term "total ester" is intended to mean that all of the hydroxyl functional groups of glycerol are esterified. Examples include trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), or tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), which may be mentioned alone or as a mixture. Among suitable compounds, mention may be made of the triester of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil, such as Thixcin R and Thixcin E sold by Elementis Specialties. vi) Waxes of animal or plant origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolized beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto wax, cork fibre wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax (sumac wax), montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, or sunflower wax, in particular refined sunflower wax may also be mentioned; vii) Naturally or synthetically polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolized hydrocarbon waxes of animal or plant origin may also be mentioned; the number of (C2-C4) oxyalkylene units may range from 2 to 100, and the number of glycerol units may range from 1 to 20. By way of example, polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax or PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba wax, such as PEG-12 carnauba; polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropyleneated and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated lanolin wax, such as PEG-30 lanolin or PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolized beeswax, especially polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Acacia Decurrens / jojoba / sunflower seed wax / polyglyceryl-3 ester mixture, polyglycerolized plant wax, such as mimosa, jojoba, or sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof (Acacia Decurrens / jojoba / sunflower seed wax polyglyceryl-3 ester) may be mentioned.

[0111] According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. As the alcohol wax, a mixture of saturated straight-chain C 30 -C 50 alcohols may be mentioned, for example, Performacol 550 Alcohol, a wax from New Phase Technology, stearyl alcohol, and cetyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0112] ) Silicone wax As the silicone wax, for example, a mixture containing a compound of the C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) type) can be mentioned, for example, Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax, a product sold by Dow Corning. Mixtures containing compounds of the C30-45 Alkyl Methicone (C30-45 alkyl methicone) (INCI name) type, such as Dow Corning® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax products, etc. can also be mentioned. Silicone-modified beeswax can also be mentioned.

[0113] Preferably, when the composition contains this wax, the wax is selected from hydrocarbon waxes. More specifically, the wax is selected from non-polar waxes; polar hydrocarbon waxes, for example, waxes of animal or plant origin, waxes of animal or plant origin obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal oils or vegetable oils; alcohol waxes; and mixtures thereof, and preferably is selected from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes (alone or as a mixture).

[0114] When the composition contains wax, the wax content is advantageously in the range of 1% to 20% by mass, particularly in the range of 5% to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of this composition.

[0115] Paste-like compound The composition according to the present invention may also contain at least one compound that is paste-like at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0116] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "paste-like" means a lipophilic compound whose solid / liquid state changes reversibly, particularly having an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state, and containing a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at ambient temperature.

[0117] In other words, the starting melting point of the paste-like compound can be below the ambient temperature. The liquid fraction of the paste-like compound measured at the ambient temperature can account for 9% to 97% by mass of this paste-like compound. This fraction that is liquid at the ambient temperature preferably accounts for 15% to 85% by mass, more preferably 40% to 85% by mass.

[0118] The melting point of the paste-like fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as described in detail above for waxes.

[0119] However, in the case of the paste-like compound, the measurement protocol is as follows.

[0120] A 5 mg sample of the paste-like fatty substance placed in a crucible is exposed to a first temperature rise in the range from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / min, then it is cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / min, and finally it is exposed to a second temperature rise in the range from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / min.

[0121] The melting point of the paste-like fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in the absorbed energy as a function of temperature.

[0122] It should be noted that the liquid fraction (by mass) of the paste-like fatty substance at the ambient temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at the ambient temperature to the heat of fusion of this paste-like fatty substance.

[0123] The heat of fusion of the paste-like fatty substance is the heat consumed by the substance to transition from the solid state to the liquid state. The paste-like fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its body is in the crystalline solid form. The paste-like fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its body is in the liquid form.

[0124] The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to change the pasty fatty substance from a solid state to a liquid state. This is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the obtained thermogram.

[0125] The pasty compound can be particularly selected from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin.

[0126] The pasty compound can be particularly selected from the following: - Lanolin and its derivatives, for example, lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters, for example, isopropyl lanolin fatty acid, and oxypropylenated lanolin, - Petrolatum (also known as petrolatum), - Ethers of pentaerythritol and C2-C4 polyalkylene glycols, for example, compounds having the following INCI names: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether (PEG-5 pentaerythrityl ether), PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether (PPG-5 pentaerythrityl ether), and mixtures thereof. For example, a mixture sold under the name Lanolide by Vevy can be mentioned, - One or more C2-C 100 , preferably C2-C 50 Fat-soluble polyethers obtained by polyetherifying diols. Among the fat-soluble polyethers, in particular, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and long-chain C6-C 30 alkylene oxides are considered, and more preferably, those having a mass ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to alkylene oxide in the copolymer of 5:95 to 70:30 are considered. In this family, in particular, products such as those sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel and having the INCI name PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer (PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer) can be mentioned, - Preferably saturated, linear or branched C6-C 10 Dicarboxylic acid, and diglycerol, and optionally hydroxylated, preferably saturated, linear or branched C6-C 20 Esters obtained from the condensation of esters with monocarboxylic acids, in particular adipic acid, and diglycerol, and C6-C 20 A mixture of diesters obtained by condensation of fatty acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and a mixture of 12-hydroxystearic acid, and diglycerol, in particular, those sold under the reference symbol Softisan® 649 from Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (bis-diglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2)), - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C 12 ~C 18 Of fatty acids and optionally hydrogenated (fully or partially) triglycerides; for example, saturated C 12 ~C 18 Glycerides of fatty acids sold under the name Softisan 100® from Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides (hydrogenated coco glycerides)), - Esters of dimer diols or polyols and dimer diacids, for example, * An ester of dimer dilinoleyl alcohol and dilinoleic acid, wherein the hydroxyl group is esterified with a mixture of phytosterol, behenyl alcohol, and isostearyl alcohol, such as the ester sold under the name Plandool G from Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate)); * Esters of linoleic acid with a mixture of phytosterol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol, for example, esters sold under the names Plandool H or Plandool S by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate); - Butters of plant origin, for example, mango butter (e.g., product sold under the reference symbol of Lipex 203 by AarhusKarlshamn), shea butter, especially products with the INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (e.g., product sold under the reference symbol of Sheasoft® by AarhusKarlshamn), cupuaçu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; in addition, orange wax (e.g., product sold under the reference symbol of Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen); - Fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, etc. (e.g., a mixture of hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated palm oil, and hydrogenated rapeseed oil, for example, a mixture sold under the reference symbol of Akogel® by AarhusKarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold under the product symbol of Iso-Jojoba-50® by Desert Whale, and partially hydrogenated olive oil (e.g., a compound sold under the reference symbol of Beurrolive by Soliance, etc.); - Hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate (e.g., Risocast DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo), or hydrogenated castor oil isostearate (e.g., Salacos HCIS(V-L) sold by Nisshin Oil); - And mixtures thereof.

[0127] Preferably, the paste-like compound is selected from products having the following INCI names: PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, esters of dimer diols or polyols and diacid dimers, butters of plant origin, and mixtures thereof.

[0128] When the composition contains at least one paste-like compound, the content of this paste-like compound ranges from 0.5% to 15% by mass, preferably from 2% to 12% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0129] Colorant The composition according to the present invention preferably contains at least one colorant of synthetic, natural, or natural origin. More specifically, the content of the colorant in this composition is advantageously at least 0.01% by mass, more specifically from 0.05% to 30% by mass, particularly from 0.1% to 25% by mass, and preferably from 0.1% to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0130] This colorant can be selected from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] Pigment The term "pigment" means white or colored inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in the medium of the present composition and are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. Thus, a pigment is not a filler.

[0132] According to a particular first embodiment, the pigment used is selected from inorganic pigments.

[0133] The term "inorganic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments in Ullmann’s encyclopaedia. Among the inorganic pigments useful in the present invention, in addition to zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide (black iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, or red iron oxide) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydroxide and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders (e.g., aluminum powder and copper powder) may be mentioned. The following inorganic pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0134] The diameter of the pigment useful in connection with the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably can range from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably can range from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0135] According to a particular form of the present invention, the pigment has a diameter characterized in that D

[50] exceeds 100 nm and in some cases ranges up to 10 μm, preferably ranges from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably ranges from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0136] This diameter is measured by static light scattering using a commercially available Malvern MasterSizer 3000 (registered trademark) particle size analyzer, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all particles in a wide range that can potentially cover from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. The data is processed based on the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is most suitable for particle size distributions in the sub-micron to several micron range; thereby, it becomes possible to measure the "effective" particle size. This theory is described, inter alia, in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0137] D

[50] represents the maximum size indicating 50 volume % of the particles.

[0138] In connection with the present invention, the inorganic pigment is, more specifically, iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. Examples that can be more specifically cited include, for example, titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, which are sold under the reference name of NAI (registered trademark) by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd.

[0139] Pearlescent pigments can also be cited as inorganic pigments that can be used in the present invention.

[0140] The term "pearlescent pigment" should be understood to mean colored particles in any form, which may or may not have an iridescent color, and in particular, are produced in the outer shell by a certain specific mollusk or are synthesized and have a color effect by light interference.

[0141] The pearlescent agent can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium-mica coated with iron oxide, titanium-mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium-mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium-mica coated with an organic dye, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. These can also be mica particles with at least two continuous layers of metal oxide and / or organic colorant superimposed on the surface of the mica particles.

[0142] Examples of pearlescent agents can also include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments, or bismuth oxychloride.

[0143] More specifically, the pearlescent agent can have the colors or color shades of yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper.

[0144] Among the pigments that can be used according to the present invention, there can be those having an optical effect different from a simple conventional coloring effect (i.e., a unified and stabilized effect such as produced by a conventional colorant, for example, a single-color pigment). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stabilized" means that there is no influence of color variability from the perspective of observation or in response to temperature changes.

[0145] For example, this material can be selected from particles having a metallic color shade, goniochromatic colorants, diffraction pigments, thermochromic agents, fluorescent brighteners, and also fibers, especially interference fibers. Needless to say, these various materials can be combined to simultaneously exhibit two effects or even to exhibit a novel effect according to the present invention.

[0146] According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention contains at least one uncoated pigment.

[0147] According to another specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention contains at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic compound or hydrophobic compound.

[0148] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. As long as this type of pigment is treated with a hydrophobic compound, this pigment exhibits a predominant affinity for the oil phase, and then the oil phase can transfer this pigment.

[0149] The coating may also contain at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0150] For the purposes of the present invention, the "coating" of the pigment according to the present invention generally means the overall or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surfactant absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto the pigment.

[0151] The surface-treated pigment can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electrical, mechanochemical, or mechanical nature well-known to those skilled in the art. Commercially available products can also be used.

[0152] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto the pigment surface by evaporation of the solvent, chemical reaction, and formation of covalent bonds.

[0153] According to one variant form, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigment.

[0154] This coating can account for 0.1% to 20% by mass, particularly 0.5% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the coated pigment.

[0155] The coating can be caused by adsorption of the liquid surfactant onto the surface of the solid particles by simply mixing the solid particles and the liquid surfactant while optionally heating, for example, prior to incorporation of the particles into other raw materials of a makeup composition or a care composition.

[0156] The coating can be caused, for example, by a chemical reaction between a surfactant and the surface of solid pigment particles and the formation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described, inter alia, in U.S. Patent No. 4,578,266.

[0157] The chemical surface treatment can be constituted by diluting a surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing a pigment in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent. As a result, the surfactant deposits on the surface of the pigment.

[0158] When the pigment contains a lipophilic coating or a hydrophobic coating, this pigment is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0159] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the pigment can be coated according to the present invention with at least one compound selected from silicone-based surfactants; fluorine-based surfactants; fluorosilicone-based surfactants; metal soaps; N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyltriisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant-based waxes or animal-based waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0160] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the pigment can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0161] According to another specific embodiment, the colorant is a synthetic, natural, or organo pigment of natural origin.

[0162] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann’s encyclopaedia. Organic pigments include, inter alia, nitroso compounds, nitro compounds, azo compounds, xanthene compounds, quinoline compounds, anthraquinone compounds, phthalocyanine compounds, metal complex compounds, isoindolinone compounds, isoindoline compounds, quinacridone compounds, perinone compounds, perylene compounds, diketopyrrolopyrrole compounds, thioindigo compounds, dioxazine compounds, triphenylmethane compounds, or quinophthalone compounds, from which they can be selected.

[0163] Organic pigments can be selected, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments classified in the Color Index under the reference symbols CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, and 74160, yellow pigments classified in the Color Index under the reference symbols CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, and 47005, green pigments classified in the Color Index under the reference symbols CI 61565, 61570, and 74260, orange pigments classified in the Color Index under the reference symbols CI 11725, 15510, 45370, and 71105, red pigments classified in the Color Index under the reference symbols CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, and 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives or phenol derivatives as described in French Patent No. 2679771.

[0164] The pigment can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in European Patent No. 1184426. These composite pigments can in particular be composed of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the inorganic core.

[0165] The pigment can also be a lake. The term "lake" means an insoluble dye adsorbed on insoluble particles, and the aggregate thus obtained remains insoluble during use.

[0166] Mineral substrates on which the dye is adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0167] Among the organic dyes, cochineal carmine may be mentioned. Products known under the following names may also be mentioned: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0168] An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0169] The pigment is preferably present in a content of at least 0.01% by mass, more specifically at least 1% by mass, and even more specifically at least 2% by mass, based on the mass of the composition in question. More specifically, the content of the colorant is less than 30% by mass, more specifically 0.05% to 30% by mass, and even better 0.1% to 25% by mass, based on the total mass of this composition.

[0170] Water-soluble dye or fat-soluble dye According to another specific embodiment of the present invention, the colorant is a water-soluble dye or a fat-soluble dye.

[0171] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic generally organic compound that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and is capable of coloring.

[0172] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fat-soluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic generally organic compound that is soluble in an oily phase or a solvent miscible with the oily phase and is capable of coloring.

[0173] Suitable water-soluble dyes for use in the present invention may include, in particular, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, and FDC Blue 1.

[0174] Among natural water-soluble dyes, anthocyanins may be mentioned.

[0175] As fat-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, in particular, fat-soluble dyes such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, and Sudan Brown can be mentioned.

[0176] Examples of natural fat-soluble dyes include, in particular, carotenes such as β-carotene, α-carotene, and lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (ceres green BB, D&C green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-di-p-toluidinoanthraquinone, green No. 202, quinazine green SS), and chlorophyll.

[0177] When the composition contains this dye, the water-soluble dye or fat-soluble dye is preferably present in a content of less than 4% by mass, or further less than 2% by mass, more preferably in a content range of 0.01% to 2% by mass, and even better in a content of 0.02% to 1.5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0178] Filler The composition according to the present invention may also contain at least one filler.

[0179] "Filler" refers to particles having organic or inorganic properties that are colorless or white, solid, have any shape, and are insoluble in the medium of the composition at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. This filler is preferably dispersed in the composition.

[0180] The term "inorganic" is understood to mean any compound whose chemical structure does not contain carbon atoms.

[0181] The filler may or may not have a coated surface, and in particular, it may be surface-treated with silicone, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives, or any other substance that improves the dispersibility and affinity in the composition of the filler.

[0182] Such fillers are different from both the mineral thickeners and colorants described above.

[0183] The filler can be spherical, i.e., it can contain at least an overall round portion, preferably at least one spherical portion is defined, preferably an inwardly concave surface or a hollow (spherical, small spherical, hollow hemispherical (bowl), U-shaped, etc.) is defined, or it is in the form of a thin plate.

[0184] Such fillers are preferably selected from the following: - Silica powder, for example, porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700 by Miyoshi, or under the name Sunsphere® H-51 or Sunsphere® H-33 by Asahi Glass; or amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane, sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H-33 or SA Sunsphere® H-53 by Asahi Glass; - Powders of acrylic (co)polymers and their derivatives, in particular: * Methyl polymethacrylate powder sold under the name Covabead® LH85 by Sensient, or under the name Microsphere M-100® by Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku, * Polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders sold under the name Dow Corning 5640 Microsponge® Skin Oil Adsorber by Dow Corning or under the name Ganzpearl® GMP-0820 by Ganz Chemical, * Allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders sold under the name Poly-Pore® L200 or Poly-Pore® E200 by Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc., * Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 Adsorber by Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc., * Optionally cross-linked acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymer cross-linked acrylate / ethylhexyl acrylate powders sold under the name Techpolymer ACP-8C by Sekisui Plastics Co., Ltd., * Ethylene / acrylate copolymer powders, for example, those sold under the name Flobeads® by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals Co., Ltd., * Expanded hollow particles of acrylonitrile (co)polymers sold under the name Expancel by Akzo Nobel, or microspheres sold under the name Micropearl F 80 ED® by Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku Co., Ltd., - Polyurethane powders, for example, those sold under the names D-400, CS-400, and D-800 by Toshiki Pigment Co., Ltd., - Silicone powders, preferably those selected from the following: * Polymethylsilsesquioxane powder, especially those sold under the name Tospearl by Momentive Performance Materials, especially those sold under the name Tospearl 145 A, * Organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin, especially a silsesquioxane resin, for example, products sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, or KSP-105 by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. (INCI name: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer), * Powder of silicone elastomer, for example, products sold under the names Dowsil Trefil E-506 S Silicone Powder or Trefil® Powder E-506C by Dow Corning, * Powder of organosilicon particles, for example, those described in European Patent Application Publication No. 1579841 in addition to Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2003-128788 or Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-191789, and especially those sold by Takemoto Oil & Fat Co., Ltd., - Polyamide powder, for example, Nylon® powder, especially Nylon 12 powder, for example, nylon powder sold under the name Orgasol® 2002 EXS NAT COS by Arkema, - Powders of natural organic substances, such as polysaccharide powders, especially starch powders, particularly cross-linked or uncross-linked corn, wheat, or rice starch powders, powders of starch cross-linked with octenyl succinic anhydride sold under the name Dry-Flo® by National Starch, or waxy corn starch powders, such as those sold under the names C* Gel 04201 by Cargill, Corn Starch B by Roquette, and Organic Corn Starch by Draco Natural Products, - Spherical cellulose microparticles, such as Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5, and Cellulobeads USF sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd. - Particles of N-(C8-C 22 acylated) amino acids; the amino acids can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine, preferably lysine, such as Amihope LL from Ajinomoto Co., Inc. or those sold under the name Corum 5105 S by Corum. - Perlite powders, such as those sold by World Minerals under the trade names Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550, Perlite P2040, or OpTiMat® 1430 OR 2550 OR. Europerl EMP-2 and Europerl 1 from Imerys. - Zeolites, such as products sold by Zeochem under the names Zeoflair 300, Zeoflair 200, Zeoflair 100, X-Mol, and X-Mol MT. - Calcium magnesium carbonate particles, such as those sold by Imerys under the name Calcidol, by LCW (Sensient) under the name Carbomat, or by Omya under the name Omyacare S60-AV.

[0185] Talc particles, for example, those sold under the names Luzenac Pharma M and UM from Imerys, and Rose Talc and Talc SG-2000 from Nippon Talc Co., Ltd.; natural or synthetic mica particles, for example, those sold under the names Mica M RP and Silk Mica from Merck, or the product sold under the name Sericite S-152-BC from Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd.; calcium carbonate and magnesium bicarbonate; hydroxyapatite; boron nitride; fluorophlogopite; and mixtures thereof may also be used.

[0186] The spherical filler can be coated with a hydrophobizing agent. This hydrophobizing agent can be selected from fatty acids (for example, stearic acid); metal soaps (for example, aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate); amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl titanate triisostearate; and mixtures thereof. The N-acyl amino acid can contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and can contain, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl group, a caproyl group, a lauroyl group, a myristoyl group, a palmitoyl group, a stearoyl group, or a cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum salts, magnesium salts, calcium salts, zirconium salts, zinc salts, sodium salts, or potassium salts. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The term "alkyl" mentioned in the above compounds particularly refers to an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl group having 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0187] When the composition according to the present invention contains a filler, its content advantageously occupies 0.5% by mass to 15% by mass, more specifically 2% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the mass of this composition.

[0188] Mineral thickener The composition according to the present invention may also contain at least one mineral thickener selected from optionally modified clay, optionally modified silica, or a mixture thereof.

[0189] More specifically, when the composition contains a mineral thickener, its content is expressed as an active substance and occupies 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.2% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0190] Optionally modified clay Clay is a silicate containing cations selected from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.

[0191] Examples of such products include vermiculite-based, stevensite-based, or chlorite-based clays in addition to smectite-based clays. These clays may be of natural origin or synthetic origin.

[0192] Preferably, organophilic clays, more specifically modified clays such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, or sepiolite, and mixtures thereof are used. The clay is preferably bentonite or hectorite.

[0193] These clays are modified with compounds selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, aliphatic sulfates, alkylaryl sulfonates, or amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0194] Therefore, quaternary amines, more specifically, C 10 ~C 22Fatty acid ammonium halides, for example, hectorite modified with chloride, for example, distearyldimethylammonium halide, preferably hectorite modified with chloride (CTFA name: distearyldimonium hectorite), for example, those sold under the names Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG, or Bentone EW CE from Elementis, or stearalkonium hectorite, for example, especially products such as Bentone 27 V may be mentioned.

[0195] Quaternium-18 bentonite, for example, especially those sold under the name Bentone 34 from Elementis, Claytone 40, Tixogel VP from United Catalyst / Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonite, for example, those sold under the name Tixogel LG from United Catalyst, and Claytone AF and Claytone APA from Southern Clay; or quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite, for example, those sold under the name Claytone HT from Southern Clay may also be mentioned.

[0196] According to a preferred embodiment, the thickener is selected from organophilic modified clays, especially organophilic modified hectorites, especially benzyl dimethyl ammonium stearate or distearyldimethylammonium halide, especially those modified with chloride.

[0197] According to an alternative form of the present invention, the content of optionally modified clay ranges from 0.2% to 10% by mass, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by mass, based on the mass of the composition. These percentages are expressed as active substances.

[0198] Optionally modified silica Fumed silica with a preferably hydrophobized surface and a particle size advantageously less than 1 μm may also be mentioned. In fact, it is possible to chemically modify the silica surface by a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups present on the silica surface. It is particularly possible to replace the silanol groups with hydrophobic groups, and then hydrophobic silica is obtained. The hydrophobic group may be as follows: - Trimethylsiloxyl group, which is obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silica treated in this way is known as Silica Silylate according to CTFA (6th edition, 1995). These are sold, for example, under the reference symbol Aerosil R812® from Degussa and under the reference symbol Cab-O-Sil TS-530® from Cabot. - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silica treated in this way is known as dimethylsilylated silica according to CTFA (6th edition, 1995). These are sold, for example, under the reference symbols Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® from Degussa and under Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® from Cabot.

[0199] Hydrophobic fumed silica can in particular have a particle size in the nanometer to micrometer range, for example, a particle size in the range of about 5 - 200 nm.

[0200] The composition according to the invention may also contain at least silica aerogel particles.

[0201] Silica aerogel is a porous material obtained by replacing (drying) the liquid component of silica gel with air.

[0202] Silica aerogels are generally synthesized by the sol-gel method in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid (the most commonly used is supercritical CO2). This type of drying makes it possible to avoid pore and material shrinkage. The sol-gel method and various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

[0203] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles suitable for the practice of the present invention have a specific surface area (S M ) per unit mass in the range of 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably in the range of 600 to 1200 m 2 / g, more preferably in the range of 600 to 800 m 2 / g. The size (D[0.5]) expressed as the volume median diameter is in the range of 1 to 1500 μm, more preferably in the range of 1 to 1000 μm, preferably 1 to 100 μm, particularly 1 to 30 μm, more preferably 5 to 25 μm, even more preferably 5 to 20 μm, and even more preferably in the range of 5 to 15 μm.

[0204] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area (S M ) per unit mass in the range of 600 to 800 m 2 / g, and the size (D[0.5]) expressed as the volume median diameter is in the range of 5 to 20 μm, even more preferably in the range of 5 to 15 μm.

[0205] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, which is described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and is known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the specific surface area of the entire particles of interest.

[0206] The size of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercially available particle size analyzer such as a MasterSizer 2000 device from Malvern. The data is processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory corresponds to isotropic particles and, in the case of non-spherical particles, makes it possible to determine the "effective" particle size. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0207] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area S per unit volume V of 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3 in the range, preferably 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 in the range, and even more preferably 15 to 40 m 2 / cm 3 in the range.

[0208] The aerogel that can be used according to the present invention is an aerogel of hydrophobic silica, preferably an aerogel of silylated silica (INCI name: Silica Silylate).

[0209] Regarding the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to the document of U.S. Patent No. 7,470,725.

[0210] Preferably, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups can be used.

[0211] As the hydrophobic silica aerogel that can be used in the present invention, for example, an aerogel sold under the name of VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica Silylate) by Dow Corning can be mentioned. The average size of these particles is about 1000 microns, and the specific surface area per unit mass is in the range of 600 to 800 m 2 / g.

[0212] Aerogels sold by Cabot under the reference symbols of Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100, and Enova Aerogel MT 1200 can also be mentioned.

[0213] Preferably, it is an aerogel sold under the name of VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica Silylate) by Dow Corning. The particles have an average diameter in the range of 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass in the range of 600 to 800 m 2 / g, and this aerogel is used.

[0214] Preferably, when the composition contains at least one thickener selected from optionally modified silica, this silica is selected from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

[0215] According to an alternative form of the present invention, the content of optionally modified silica is in the range of 0.5% to 15% by mass, preferably in the range of 1% to 7% by mass, based on the mass of the present composition. These values are expressed as the mass of the active substance.

[0216] Preferably, the mineral thickener is selected from organophilic clays, particularly modified hectorite; hydrophobized fumed silica; hydrophobic silica aerogel; or mixtures thereof. More specifically, it is selected from at least one organophilic modified clay or at least one hydrophobized modified silica, particularly hydrophobic silica aerogel.

[0217] Optional additive The composition may contain at least one optional additive selected from, for example, film-forming agents; antioxidants; preservatives; fragrances; flavoring agents; neutralizing agents; emollient agents; organic thickeners; for example, linear or branched dextrin esters; film-forming aids; humectants; vitamins; and mixtures thereof.

[0218] Needless to say, those skilled in the art will carefully select any additional additives and / or their amounts so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the present invention are not adversely affected or are substantially not adversely affected by the intended addition.

[0219] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope of the present invention.

Example

[0220] Example 1 Prepare the following composition (the components of this composition and their respective contents are listed in the following table) (unless otherwise indicated, the contents are expressed as mass% of the starting materials).

[0221]

Table 1

[0222] Preparation of the composition: Disperse ethyl cellulose in a part of octyldodecanol and C 12 ~C 15 alkyl benzoate while stirring with Rayneri (at a stirring speed sufficient to cause a vortex) at 105°C.

[0223] Once the ethyl cellulose is solubilized, at the same temperature and under the same stirring conditions, add the remainder of the octyldodecanol and C 12 ~C 15 alkyl benzoate, VP / eicosene copolymer, PET-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, and wax.

[0224] After homogenization, phenylated silicone is added at 105°C while stirring with Rayneri for at least 15 minutes.

[0225] Finally, isododecane is added while stirring at 105°C.

[0226] When the obtained mixture is homogenized, pigments are added while stirring.

[0227] The obtained mixture is poured into a lipstick mold preheated to 42°C under high-temperature conditions, and the assembled product is cooled to 4°C. Finally, the composition is taken out of this mold and the stick is adjusted.

[0228] Evaluation of the composition: Stability The stability of this composition is evaluated by storing this composition at ambient temperature for 72 hours and observing the presence or absence of bleeding of one or more oils.

[0229] Hardness: The hardness is measured according to the protocol defined above in this specification.

[0230] Bleeding resistance: Apply makeup by applying lipstick twice to the lips.

[0231] After waiting for 1 hour without eating or drinking anything, press the lips against a sheet of white copy paper with a basis weight of 80 g / m 2 (kiss test).

[0232] Visually evaluate the color deposited on this paper.

[0233] The color deposited on this paper can also be measured by a CIE Lab colorimeter.

[0234] Measurement of gloss Gloss is measured by evaluating the reflection of the deposit on the support.

[0235] The measurement of gloss is carried out at the following three angles using a BYK Gardner Micro-Tri-Gloss Glossmeter: 20°, 60°, and 85°. The index of the light reflected on the product is calculated in gloss units (GU).

[0236] To do this, the formulation is applied onto an Erichsen contrast card in an amount sufficient to obtain a film thickness of 100 μm using a spreader. The measurement of gloss is carried out on the white part of this card 1 hour after application.

[0237] Measurement of tackiness: A sufficient amount of the composition is sampled and then crushed in a stainless-steel container with a depth of 100 microns.

[0238] Then, the composition is flattened before measurement.

[0239] This container is left to dry at ambient temperature for 1 hour.

[0240] The apparatus used is a TAXT2i Texture Analyzer. The clamp attached to this apparatus holds an AU4G cylinder with a diameter of 6 mm, and at its end, a tip (with the same diameter and a thickness of 2 mm) formed of a smooth beige material imitating skin is adhered.

[0241] Between each measurement, this tip is washed with ethanol. Measurements are never made at the same location in this sample.

[0242] The parameters of the compression test including the maintenance time are shown below.

[0243]

Table 2

[0244] Results: The resulting composition is stable.

[0245] This composition is easy to apply, has good slip properties, and does not drag, so it is possible to obtain clear, fine, dark, covering, non-sticky, and non-migrating deposits.

[0246] The resulting deposit is comfortable and maintains its state over a long period without feeling dry or tight at all.

[0247] This deposit has luster, the loss of this glossiness is good, and the migration resistance is good.

[0248] Example 2 Prepare the following composition (the components of this composition and their respective contents are listed in the following table) (unless otherwise indicated, the content is expressed as mass% of the starting materials).

[0249]

Table 3

[0250] Preparation of the composition: Disperse ethyl cellulose in a part of octyldodecanol and C 12 ~C 15 alkyl benzoate while stirring with Rayneri (at a stirring speed sufficient to generate a vortex) at 105 °C.

[0251] After solubilizing ethyl cellulose, add octyldodecanol and C 12 ~C 15 the remainder of alkyl benzoate, VP / eicosene copolymer, PET-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, and wax under the same temperature and stirring conditions.

[0252] After homogenization, add phenylated silicone at 105 °C while stirring with Rayneri for at least 15 minutes.

[0253] Finally, while stirring at 105°C, hydrogenated polyisobutene is added.

[0254] When the obtained mixture is homogenized, while stirring, a pigment and a methyl methacrylate cross-polymer filler are added.

[0255] The obtained mixture is poured into a lipstick mold preheated to 42°C under high-temperature conditions, and the assembled product is cooled to 4°C. Finally, the composition is taken out of this mold, and the stick is adjusted.

[0256] Results: The obtained composition is stable.

[0257] This composition is easy to apply, has good slip properties, and does not drag, so it is possible to obtain a clear, fine, thick, covering, non-greasy, and non-transferring deposit.

[0258] The obtained deposit is comfortable and maintains its state over a long period without feeling dry or tight at all.

[0259] This deposit has luster, the loss of this glossiness is good, and the resistance to transfer is good.

[0260] Example 3 Prepare the following composition (the components of this composition and their respective contents are listed in the following table) (unless otherwise indicated, the content is expressed as mass% of the starting materials).

[0261]

Table 4

[0262] Preparation of the composition: Ethyl cellulose is stirred with Rayneri (at a stirring speed sufficient to generate a vortex) at 105°C in octyldodecanol and C 12 ~C15 Disperse it in a part of alkyl benzoate.

[0263] When ethyl cellulose is solubilized, under the same temperature and stirring conditions, octyldodecanol and C 12 ~C 15 The remaining part of alkyl benzoate, VP / eicosene copolymer, PET-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, and wax.

[0264] After homogenization, add phenylated silicone at 105 °C while stirring with Rayneri for at least 15 minutes.

[0265] Finally, add hydrogenated polyisobutene while stirring at 105 °C.

[0266] When the obtained mixture is homogenized, add the pigment while stirring.

[0267] Pour the obtained mixture into a lipstick mold preheated to 42 °C under high-temperature conditions, and cool the assembled product to 4 °C. Finally, take out the composition from this mold and adjust this stick.

[0268] Result: The obtained composition is stable.

[0269] This composition is easy to apply, has good slip properties, and does not smear, so it is possible to obtain clear, fine, rich, covering, non-greasy, and non-transferring deposits.

[0270] The obtained deposit is comfortable and maintains its state for a long time without feeling dry or tight at all.

[0271] This deposit has luster, the loss of this glossiness is good, and the resistance to transfer is good.

[0272] Example 4 Prepare the following composition (the components of this composition and their respective contents are listed in the table below) (unless otherwise instructed, the content is expressed as mass% of the starting materials).

[0273]

Table 5

[0274] Preparation of the composition: Disperse ethyl cellulose in part of octyldodecanol and C 12 ~C 15 alkyl benzoate while stirring with Rayneri (at a stirring speed sufficient to generate a vortex) at 105 °C.

[0275] Once the ethyl cellulose is solubilized, add the remainder of octyldodecanol and C 12 ~C 15 alkyl benzoate, VP / eicosene copolymer, PET-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, and wax under the same temperature and stirring conditions.

[0276] After homogenization, add phenylated silicone at 105 °C while stirring with Rayneri for at least 15 minutes.

[0277] Finally, add isohexadecane while stirring at 105 °C.

[0278] When the resulting mixture is homogenized, add the pigment while stirring.

[0279] Pour the resulting mixture into a lipstick mold preheated to 42 °C under high-temperature conditions, and cool the assembled product to 4 °C. Finally, remove the composition from the mold and adjust the stick.

[0280] Results: The resulting composition is stable.

[0281] This composition is easy to apply, has good slip properties, and does not drag, so it is possible to obtain clear, fine, thick, covering, non-sticky, and non-migrating deposits.

[0282] The obtained deposits are comfortable and maintain that state over a long period without feeling dry or tight at all.

[0283] This deposit has luster, the loss of this glossiness is good, and the migration resistance is good.

[0284] Example 5 Prepare the following composition (the components of this composition and their respective contents are listed in the following table) (unless otherwise indicated, the content is expressed as mass% of the starting material).

[0285]

Table 6

[0286] Preparation of the composition: Disperse ethyl cellulose in a part of octyldodecanol and C 12 ~C 15 alkyl benzoate while stirring with Rayneri (at a stirring speed sufficient to generate a vortex) at 105°C.

[0287] When ethyl cellulose is solubilized, under the same temperature and stirring conditions, the remainder of octyldodecanol and C 12 ~C 15 alkyl benzoate, VP / eicosene copolymer, PET-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, and wax.

[0288] After homogenization, add phenylated silicone at 105°C while stirring with Rayneri for at least 15 minutes.

[0289] Finally, add isohexadecane while stirring at 105°C.

[0290] When the obtained mixture is homogenized, the pigment is added while stirring.

[0291] The obtained mixture is poured into a lipstick mold preheated to 42°C under high-temperature conditions, and the assembled product is cooled to 4°C. Finally, the composition is taken out of this mold, and the stick is adjusted.

[0292] Results: The obtained composition is stable.

[0293] This composition is easy to apply, has good slip properties, and does not smear, so it is possible to obtain clear, fine, intense, covering, non-greasy, and non-transferring deposits.

[0294] The obtained deposit is comfortable and maintains its state over a long period without feeling dry or tight at all.

[0295] This deposit has luster, the loss of this glossiness is good, and the migration resistance is good.

Claims

1. A solid cosmetic composition for making up human keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising * At least ethyl cellulose, * At least a first oil, an ester of benzoic acid and a monoalcohol having preferably from C ８ to C ２０ , preferably an ester of a monoalcohol having from C ８ to C １８ , and a first oil selected from mixtures thereof * At least a second oil, C １０ - C ２６ A second oil which is a polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from alcohols and optionally esters other than the first oil * at least a third oil, the third oil being selected from non-volatile phenylated silicones containing at least one dimethicone fragment; *Optionally, at least a fourth oil, the fourth oil being a non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oil or a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil that does not contain dimethicone fragments. Including, * The content of oil is such that the mass ratio of the first oil, the second oil, and optionally the fourth oil / third oil is less than or equal to 1; Solid cosmetic composition.

2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the ethylcellulose content is between 1% and 10% by weight, more particularly between 2% and 6% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

3. The first oil is C １２ -C １５ alkyl benzoate, C １６ -C １７ alkyl benzoate, stearyl benzoate, isostearyl benzoate, ethylhexyl benzoate, and octyldodecyl benzoate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably C １２ -C １５ The composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it is selected from monoesters of benzoic acid selected from alkyl benzoates.

4. 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of the first oil is between 8% and 30% by weight, more particularly between 10% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The second oil of the non-volatile hydrocarbon system is selected from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol, and preferably selected from octyldodecanol, preferably saturated monohydroxylated C １０ ~C ２６ The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is selected from alcohols.

6. 6. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also comprise at least one ester other than the first oil, more particularly chosen from aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched mono- or diesters containing from 12 to 80 carbon atoms and optionally containing one or two ester groups; aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched triesters containing up to 80 carbon atoms and optionally containing one to three ether groups; in particular tetraesters containing from 35 to 80 carbon atoms and optionally containing one to three ether groups; polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers with diols; esters of dimeric diols or polyols with mono- and / or dicarboxylic acids; vegetable oils; and also mixtures thereof.

7. 7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of the second oil ranges from 8% to 20% by weight, and more particularly from 9% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. C １０ to C ２６ The alcohol content ranges from 8% by mass to 20% by mass, more specifically from 9% by mass to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, and the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 is characterized in that.

9. (Ethyl cellulose / Ethyl cellulose + C １０ ~C ２６ (Alcohol) mass ratio × 100 is at least 10%, more specifically at least 15%, advantageously not exceeding 60%, preferably not exceeding 50%, and the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that.

10. The third oil of the non-volatile phenylated silicone containing at least one dimethicone group is selected from trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, diphenyldimethicone, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, and is characterized in that it is the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.

11. The content of the third oil of the non-volatile phenylated silicone occupies 20% by mass to 40% by mass, preferably 25% by mass to 35% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, and is characterized in that it is the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

12. At least a fourth oil, which is a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil not containing a dimethicone fragment or a non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oil, in particular, contains a fourth oil which is at least one oil selected from dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof, and is characterized in that it is the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11.

13. When the composition contains the fourth oil, the content of the fourth oil is 5% by mass or less, more specifically 1% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition, and is characterized in that it is the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.

14. The content of the oil is such that the mass ratio of the first oil, the second oil, and optionally the fourth oil / the third oil is 0.5 to 1, more specifically 0.7 to 0.1, and is characterized in that it is the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13.

15. At least one non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, in particular, liquid paraffin; squalane; isoeicosane; a mixture of saturated straight-chain hydrocarbons, more specifically C15 to C28 hydrocarbons; hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutene; hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutene; hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecane, and contains a non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil selected from mixtures thereof, and is characterized in that it is the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14.

16. The content of the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil occupies 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, more specifically 1% by mass to 12% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, and is characterized in that it is the composition according to claim 15.

17. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized by comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected preferably from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, or silicone oil, or a combination thereof.

18. The composition according to claim 17, characterized in that the content of the volatile oil occupies 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, more specifically 1% by mass to 12% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

19. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, characterized by comprising at least one wax, more specifically a wax selected from polar or non-polar hydrocarbon-based waxes.

20. The wax according to claim 19 is selected from non-polar waxes; polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as waxes of animal or plant origin; alcohol waxes; and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from non-polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, either alone or as a mixture.

21. The composition according to claim 20, characterized in that the content of the wax is in the range of 1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably in the range of 5% by mass to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

22. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21, characterized by comprising at least one compound that is in paste form at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, preferably a hydrocarbon-based compound.

23. The composition according to claim 22, characterized in that the content of the paste-like compound is in the range of 0.5% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably in the range of 2% by mass to 12% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

24. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23, characterized by containing less than 2% by mass of water, more specifically less than 1% by mass, and even more specifically less than 0.5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

25. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 24, characterized by comprising at least one colorant, particularly a colorant selected from pigments, pearlescent agents, and mixtures thereof.

26. Optionally, it contains at least one mineral thickener selected from optionally modified clay, optionally modified silica, or a mixture thereof, and more specifically, expressed as an active substance, it is contained in a content range of 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.2% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 25, characterized by this.

27. A method for making up and / or caring for the lips, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 26.

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