Soft focus cosmetic compositions and methods for reducing the appearance of skin imperfections

Abstract

The soft focus cosmetic composition contains at least one natural oil, at least one blurring agent, and at least one water-in-oil emulsifier. The soft focus cosmetic composition may be a water-in-oil emulsion in which at least one natural oil is in the external phase. The soft focus cosmetic composition has good radiance. A method for reducing the appearance of skin imperfections by applying a soft focus composition containing at least one natural oil, at least one blurring agent, and at least one water-in-oil emulsifier to the skin surface.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] FIELD OF THE DISCLOSURE The present disclosure relates generally to soft-focus cosmetic compositions and methods for reducing the appearance of skin imperfections. [Background technology]

[0002] The cosmetic industry is trying to move away from silicone due to regulatory compliance requirements, consumer demand, and the need to reduce environmental impact.Due to the many skin care benefits that natural oils can bring to products, natural oils are used as one of the main candidates to replace silicone in cosmetics.However, completely or partially replacing silicone with natural oils brings about great technical challenges in soft focus cosmetics, because silicones have reflectances that are very different from those of natural oils.

[0003] Soft focus cosmetic compositions are highly desirable because they can achieve a natural skin appearance with fewer skin imperfections.Specifically, by scattering incident light and blurring skin imperfections, soft focus cosmetic compositions can hide skin imperfections but still allow natural skin features to be seen, while simple covering techniques give an undesirable artificial appearance because most of the natural skin features are lost.It is recognized that the standard measurement of soft focus effect is diffuse reflectance.The higher the diffuse reflectance of a composition, the better its soft focus effect.

[0004] Soft focus cosmetic compositions typically contain particles and liquid carriers, and the particles have a refractive index different from that of the liquid carrier.It has been recognized in the cosmetic industry that the greater the difference in refractive index between particles and liquid carriers in a composition, the better the soft focus effect can be.For example, many particles commonly used in soft focus cosmetic compositions have a refractive index of about 1.46, and the silicone used in the liquid carrier in such compositions has a refractive index of about 1.38.This refractive index difference can bring about the desired soft focus effect in cosmetic compositions.

[0005] However, when silicone is replaced by natural oil, natural oil has a reflectance (about 1.46) very similar to particles commonly used in soft focus cosmetic compositions, making it very difficult to achieve a significant soft focus effect in cosmetic compositions based on natural oil instead of silicone.

[0006] Another challenge for soft focus cosmetic compositions is to balance the soft focus effect with the radiance effect. Although the soft focus effect can hide skin imperfections, too much of this effect can result in a low level of skin radiance. Radiance is also highly desired by consumers because it is considered an indicator of healthy skin. The standard measurement of radiance is recognized as specular reflectance. The higher the specular reflectance of a composition, the better its radiance. Soft focus cosmetic compositions with a good level of radiance effect are highly desired by consumers, but are always difficult to create.

[0007] The present disclosure relates to a cosmetic composition having an unexpected soft focus effect, comprising at least one natural oil, at least one blurring agent, and at least one water-in-oil emulsifier.Surprisingly, such a soft focus cosmetic composition can also achieve a good level of skin radiance.The present disclosure also relates to a method for reducing the appearance of skin imperfections by using such a soft focus cosmetic composition. Summary of the Invention

[0008] The present invention is directed to a soft focus cosmetic composition comprising at least one natural oil, at least one blurring agent, and at least one water-in-oil emulsifier.

[0009] The present invention is further directed to a method for reducing the appearance of skin imperfections by applying to the skin surface a composition comprising at least one natural oil, at least one blurring agent, and at least one water-in-oil emulsifier. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0010] As used herein, the singular forms "a," "an," and "the" include plural references unless the context clearly dictates otherwise.

[0011] As used herein, a sentence listing a series of alternatives has the meaning that the series is provided, with each given alternative provided in a sentence by itself. For example, the sentence "The composition comprises A, B, or C" has the meaning of three separate sentences: "Alternatively, the composition comprises A. Alternatively, the composition comprises B. Alternatively, the composition comprises C."

[0012] As used herein, "and / or" means "and" or "or." For example, "A and / or B" means "A, B, or both A and B."

[0013] As used herein, "skin imperfection" means any type of mark, blemish, discoloration, or blemish that appears on the skin. Non-limiting examples of skin imperfections are wrinkles and fine lines.

[0014] As used herein, "soluble" means that the solute dissolves partially or completely (and preferably completely) in the solvent, preferably forming an equilibrium concentration of at least about 0.001 mg / mL at 25° C. "Oil-soluble active" means that the active dissolves partially or completely (and preferably completely) in a natural oil, preferably forming an equilibrium concentration of at least about 0.001 mg / mL at 25° C. "Water-soluble active" means that the active dissolves partially or completely (and preferably completely) in water, preferably forming an equilibrium concentration of at least about 0.001 mg / mL at 25° C.

[0015] Unexpectedly, it has been found that soft focus effect can be achieved in the cosmetic composition based on natural oil.The present disclosure relates to a soft focus cosmetic composition comprising at least one natural oil and at least one blurring agent.The present disclosure also relates to a method for reducing the appearance of skin imperfections by using the soft focus cosmetic composition comprising at least one natural oil and at least one blurring agent.

[0016] A method for reducing the appearance of skin imperfections may include the steps of: a) identifying an area of skin in need of reducing the appearance of skin imperfections; and b) topically applying a soft focus cosmetic composition to the area of skin. Preferably, the effect of reducing the appearance of skin imperfections is immediate upon application of the soft focus cosmetic composition.

[0017] The soft focus cosmetic composition may be in the form of an emulsion, cream, lotion, paste, suspension, powder, gel, cushion compact, hot pour, or aerosol. Preferably, the soft focus cosmetic composition is in the form of an emulsion, lotion, or gel. More preferably, the soft focus cosmetic composition is in the form of an emulsion. An emulsion is a colloidal system consisting of two liquid phases, oil and water, one of which (the internal phase) is dispersed in the other (the external phase). The emulsion may be stable or metastable. The most preferred form of the soft focus cosmetic composition is a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion. A W / O emulsion refers to an emulsion consisting of an aqueous phase (the internal phase) dispersed in a continuous oil phase (the external phase). At least one natural oil is present in the external phase of the water-in-oil emulsion. According to a preferred embodiment, the external phase of the W / O emulsion is mainly composed of natural oil. W / O emulsions containing actives can deliver water- and oil-soluble line and wrinkle actives, provide long-lasting line and wrinkle reduction, and offer more texture options. W / O emulsions can retain pigments and film formers in the outer phase for true color appearance and long-term durability.

[0018] While the soft focus cosmetic compositions may be provided as foundations, it should be understood that these compositions may be used in other cosmetic products, including, but not limited to, concealers, oil gels, lip colors, cushion compacts, hot pores, and / or cream eye shadows. In embodiments of the present disclosure, the compositions may be provided as a day foundation and a nighttime untinted skin lotion for delivery of makeup actives, an SPF 30 foundation, a silicone-free foundation, and / or a regimen including a general anti-aging active / oil cassette.

[0019] According to another alternative embodiment, the soft focus cosmetic composition is substantially free of silicone. "Substantially free of silicone" means that the total weight of silicones present in the soft focus cosmetic composition is less than 0.01% based on the total weight of the soft focus cosmetic composition.

[0020] The soft focus cosmetic composition of the present disclosure has a diffuse reflectance of at least 2.5. The soft focus cosmetic composition can simultaneously provide the dual benefits of high radiance and high blurring effect in a single foundation formulation. Conventional foundation formulations use high levels of particles for blurring effect. However, this approach often results in a matte, dull appearance on the skin. Embodiments of the present disclosure can provide the unique property of having both a soft focus effect and a high radiance appearance. The soft focus cosmetic composition of the present disclosure has a specular reflectance of at least 3.4.

[0021] natural oil Natural oils can provide deep delivery of oil-soluble active ingredients, healthy skin from the inside, and a healthy skin barrier. Natural oils can include vegetable oils, fermented vegetable oils, or mixtures thereof. Vegetable oils refer to oils extracted from plants or plant parts. The extraction method can be chemical and / or physical. Preferred extraction methods can be selected from the group consisting of solvent extraction, mechanical extraction, distillation, and combinations thereof. Fermented vegetable oils refer to mixtures obtained from the fermentation of vegetable oils as organic substrates. Fermentation is a metabolic process that causes chemical changes in organic substrates through the action of microorganisms.

[0022] The plant may be a terrestrial plant, including, but not limited to, liverworts, hornworts, mosses, and vascular plants. A preferred plant may be a vascular plant. A more preferred plant may be an angiosperm. Preferred angiosperms are Simmondsiaceae, Asteraceae, Arecaceae, Lauraceae, Oleaceae, Euphorbiaceae, Fabaceae, Rosaceae, and Sapotaceae. More preferred angiosperms are jojoba (Simmonsdia chinesis), sunflower (Helianthus annuus), coconut (Cocos nucifera), avocado (Persea gratissima), olive (Olea europaea), argan (Argania spinosa), safflower (Carthamus tinctorius), kukui nut (Aleurites moluccana), soybean (Glycine max), and apricot (Prunus armeniaca). Most preferred angiosperms are jojoba (Simmonsdia chinesis), sunflower (Helianthus annuus), coconut (Cocos nucifera), avocado (Persea gratissima), olive (Olea europaea), and argan (Argania spinosa). The plant part may be selected from the group consisting of stems, leaves, roots, shoots, flowers, seeds, grains, twigs, blossoms, fruits, bark, and mixtures thereof. Preferred plant parts are seeds, fruits, and / or flowers. More preferred plant parts are seeds and / or fruits.

[0023] The microorganism may be selected from the group consisting of fungi, bacteria, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the microorganism may be selected from the group consisting of yeast, mold, lactic acid bacteria, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of yeast include Debaryomyces, Kluyveromyces, Saccharomyces, and Geotrichum. A preferred yeast is Saccharomyces. Non-limiting examples of mold include Mucor, penicillium, and rhizopus. A preferred mold is penicillium. Non-limiting examples of lactic acid bacteria include Enterococcus, Streptococcus, Leuconostoc, Lactobacillus, and Pediococcus. A preferred lactic acid bacterium is Lactobacillus.

[0024] Preferably, the soft-focus cosmetic composition comprises at least one natural oil selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils and fermented vegetable oils made from Simmondsiaceae, Asteraceae, Arecaceae, Lauraceae, Oleaceae, Sapotaceae, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the soft-focus cosmetic composition comprises at least one natural oil selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils and fermented vegetable oils made from jojoba (Simmonsdia chinesis), sunflower (Helianthus annuus), coconut (Cocos nucifera), avocado (Persea gratissima), olive (Olea europaea), argan (Argania spinosa), and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, the soft focus cosmetic composition comprises at least one natural oil selected from the group consisting of jojoba (Simmonsdia chinesis) seed oil, coconut (Cocos nucifera) oil, avocado (Persea gratissima) oil, argan (Argania spinosa) kernel oil, olive (Olea europaea) fruit oil, sunflower (Helianthus annuus) oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0025] The total weight of the at least one natural oil may be present in the soft focus cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, and more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, based on the total weight of the soft focus cosmetic composition.

[0026] The at least one natural oil may comprise two or more natural oils. In some embodiments, the at least one natural oil comprises jojoba (Simmonsdia chinesis) seed oil and argan (Argania spinosa) kernel oil, wherein the weight ratio of jojoba (Simmonsdia chinesis) seed oil to argan (Argania spinosa) kernel oil is about 0.1:1 to about 1:1, preferably about 0.3:1 to about 0.7:1, and most preferably about 0.5:1. In some embodiments, the at least one natural oil comprises jojoba (Simmonsdia chinesis) seed oil and coconut (cocos nucifera) oil, wherein the weight ratio of jojoba (Simmonsdia chinesis) seed oil to coconut (cocos nucifera) oil is about 0.5:1 to about 1:0.5, preferably about 0.7:1 to about 1:0.7, and most preferably about 1:1. In some embodiments, the at least one natural oil comprises avocado (Persea gratissima) oil and argan (Argania spinosa) kernel oil, wherein the weight ratio of avocado (Persea gratissima) oil to argan (Argania spinosa) kernel oil is about 10:1 to about 0.5:1, preferably about 5:1 to about 1:1, and most preferably about 2:1. In some embodiments, the at least one natural oil comprises olive (Olea europaea) fruit oil and avocado (Persea gratissima) oil, wherein the weight ratio of olive (Olea europaea) fruit oil to avocado (Persea gratissima) oil is about 0.5:1 to about 1:0.5, preferably about 0.7:1 to about 1:0.7, and most preferably about 1:1. In some embodiments, the at least one natural oil comprises sunflower (Helianthus annuus) oil and argan (Argania spinosa) kernel oil, wherein the weight ratio of sunflower (Helianthus annuus) oil to argan (Argania spinosa) kernel oil is from about 0.05:1 to about 1:1, preferably from about 0.1:1 to about 0.5:1, and most preferably about 0.375:1.Most preferably, the at least one natural oil is in the form of an oil blend comprising jojoba (Simmonsdia chinesis) seed oil, coconut (Cocos nucifera) oil, avocado (Persea gratissima) oil, argan (Argania spinosa) kernel oil, olive (Olea europaea) fruit oil, and helianthus annus (sunflower) oil. The oil mixture may contain natural oils in a weight ratio of jojoba (Simmonsdia chinesis) seed oil to coconut (Cocos nucifera) oil to avocado (Persea gratissima) oil to argan (Argania spinosa) kernel oil to olive (Olea europaea) fruit oil to sunflower (Helianthus annuus) oil of about 0.1 to about 1:(about 0.1 to about 1):(about 10 to about 0.5):1:(about 10 to about 0.5):(about 0.05 to about 1). More preferably, the oil mixture may contain natural oils in a weight ratio of jojoba (Simmonsdia chinesis) seed oil to coconut (Cocos nucifera) oil to avocado (Persea gratissima) oil to argan (Argania spinosa) kernel oil to olive (Olea europaea) fruit oil to sunflower (Helianthus annuus) oil of about (about 0.3 to about 0.7):(about 0.3 to about 0.7):(about 5 to about 1):about 1:(about 5 to about 1):(about 0.1 to about 0.5).

[0027] Natural oils may contain triglycerides, free fatty acids, tocopherols, sterols, stanols, phospholipids, waxes, squalene, phenolic compounds, or mixtures thereof. Natural oils have many anti-aging therapeutic benefits for the skin, including anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity, promoting wound healing, and / or repairing the skin barrier. The inclusion of natural oils can also enhance the delivery of oil-soluble active substances in cosmetic compositions. Due to their high partition coefficient (logP), natural oils can easily penetrate the lipid bilayer of skin cell membranes. Oil-soluble active ingredients can be carried through the stratum corneum to the epidermis layer of the skin for better anti-aging efficacy performance.

[0028] Blurring agent A blurring agent is a material that can blur skin imperfections by manipulating, transmitting, and scattering light to and from the skin. Such a blurring effect is also called a soft-focus effect. A cosmetic composition having such a soft-focus effect is a soft-focus cosmetic composition. Skin imperfections, such as wrinkles and fine lines, are perceptible through the contrast of light and dark, which highlights even very fine wrinkles. A soft-focus cosmetic composition can optically reduce the contrast and hide skin imperfections. Blurring agents often do not provide whiteness, but rather a natural translucent finish. To achieve a blurring effect in a cosmetic composition, a higher refractive index (RI) of the particles and a larger difference in RI between the blurring agent and the vehicle may be required.

[0029] The blurring agent may comprise a particulate material. The particulate material may be in the form of solid, filled, or hollow particles. The particle shape may be oblate, oblong, blade-shaped, or equant. Preferably, the particle shape of the blurring agent is spherical or plate-shaped. The particulate material may be composed of one or more substances. When the particulate material comprises at least two substances, these substances may be mixed by a technique selected from the group consisting of blending, encapsulation, coating, and combinations thereof. The particulate material may have an average particle size of less than 50 μm, preferably less than 30 μm, and more preferably less than 20 μm.

[0030] The blurring agent may be present in the soft focus cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 15%, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, based on the total weight of the soft focus cosmetic composition.

[0031] The blurring agent may be selected from the group consisting of effect pigments, silica-based materials, polymeric materials, and mixtures thereof. Preferred blurring agents may comprise at least one effect pigment, at least one silica-based material, at least one polymeric material, or mixtures thereof. More preferred blurring agents may comprise effect pigments, silica-based materials, and polymeric materials.

[0032] The blurring agent may include at least one pigment. A pigment is a material having a color effect that is completely or nearly insoluble in the application medium. The pigment may be an organic material, an inorganic material, or a mixture thereof. The pigment may also be natural, synthetic, or a mixture thereof. Based on the color effect, the pigment may be classified into white pigments, colored pigments, black pigments, and effect pigments.

[0033] The blurring agent may contain at least one effect pigment. Effect pigments are pigments that impart additional color effects when applied to an application medium. The effect pigment may include titanium dioxide. A new trend in the effect pigment industry is the use of transparent materials that can generate color effects entirely or primarily through light interference phenomena. The effect pigment may include a transparent material. A preferred transparent material is transparent synthetic mica. A preferred effect pigment may include at least two materials. Preferably, the effect pigment includes a coating material coated on a substrate material. A preferred substrate material is transparent. A more preferred substrate material is transparent synthetic mica. Most preferably, the effect pigment includes titanium dioxide coated on a transparent synthetic mica substrate. The effect pigment may have an average particle size ranging from about 1 μm to about 50 μm, preferably from about 3 μm to about 30 μm, and more preferably from about 6 μm to about 25 μm. A non-limiting example of an effect pigment is available from BASF under the trade name Chione HD Infinite White. These components provide bright, clean colors due to the transparency of the substrate. Snowfall White S130D has a particle size range of 10µm to 36µm, a density of 3.2kg / L, and a density of 9lb / ft 3 , 14g / 100cm 3HD Pixel White S130S has a particle size range of 30 μm to 130 μm, a density of 3.1 kg / L, and an approximate bulk density of 3 lb / ft 3 and 4.5g / 100cm 3 HD Infinite White S130V has a particle size range of 6 μm to 22 μm, a density of 3.2 kg / L, and an approximate bulk density of 9 lb / ft 3 and 15g / 100cm 3 It has an approximate bulk density of

[0034] The effect pigment may be present in the soft focus cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 0% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 8%, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, based on the total weight of the soft focus cosmetic composition.

[0035] The blurring agent may include at least one silica-based material. The silica-based material may include at least one substance. Preferred silica-based materials include at least two substances. The at least two substances in the silica-based material may be mixed using a technique selected from the group consisting of blending, encapsulation, coating, and combinations thereof. Preferably, the silica-based material includes spherical silica microspheres. More preferably, the silica-based material includes porous spherical silica microspheres. Most preferably, the silica-based material includes titanium dioxide particles encapsulated in porous spherical silica microspheres. The titanium dioxide particles may have an average particle size ranging from about 5 nm to about 20 nm, more preferably from about 8 nm to about 15 nm, and most preferably about 12 nm. The porous spherical silica microspheres may have an average particle size ranging from about 1 μm to about 10 μm, more preferably from about 3 μm to about 7 μm, and most preferably about 5 μm. The weight ratio of titanium dioxide particles to porous spherical silica microspheres in the silica-based material can range from about 1:10 to about 1:1, preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:1, and more preferably about 1:3. The silica-based material can optionally be surface-treated. Preferably, the surface-treated silica-based material can be treated with an alkylsilane. The surface-treated silica-based material can have a hydrophobic coating. The silica-based material can have a refractive index of at least 1.3, preferably at least 1.5, and more preferably at least 1.7. Non-limiting examples of silica-based materials can be purchased from Sunjin Beauty Science under the trade names SH219 and SH219-AS.

[0036] The silica-based material may be present in the soft focus cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 0% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 8%, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, based on the total weight of the soft focus cosmetic composition.

[0037] The blurring agent may comprise at least one polymeric material. Preferably, the polymeric material comprises a homopolymer or copolymer of styrene and / or its derivatives. More preferably, the polymeric material comprises a copolymer of styrene and an acrylate. Most preferably, the polymeric material comprises a styrene / acrylate copolymer. The styrene / acrylate copolymer may have a refractive index in the range of about 1.3 to about 1.8, preferably in the range of about 1.5 to about 1.7, more preferably about 1.6.

[0038] The polymeric material may be in the form of solid or hollow particles. The particle shape may be oblate, oblate, blade-shaped, or equatorial. Preferably, the particle shape of the polymeric material is spherical or plate-shaped. The preferred form of the polymeric material is hollow spherical particles.

[0039] A preferred polymeric material comprises a styrene / acrylate copolymer in the form of a hollow spherical particle. A more preferred polymeric material is in the form of a hollow spherical particle, in which the styrene / acrylate copolymer forms the outer shell of the hollow spherical particle. The hollow interior may have a refractive index of about 1.0. The different refractive indices of the outer shell and the hollow interior of the polymeric material may result in a lighter weight ratio. One non-limiting example of a polymeric blurring agent can be purchased from Dow under the trade name Sunspheres.

[0040] The polymeric material may be present in the soft focus cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 0% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 8%, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, based on the total weight of the soft focus cosmetic composition.

[0041] Water-in-oil emulsifier Emulsifiers are materials that aid in the mixing of two liquids. Structurally, emulsifiers typically have a lipophilic portion and a hydrophilic portion. The hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) value of an emulsifier is used in the art to indicate whether hydrophilicity or lipophilicity predominates in the properties of such an emulsifier. Oil-in-water emulsifiers have a high HLB value (about 10 to about 18), indicating that these emulsifiers are hydrophilic and suitable for emulsifying fats or oils in water. Water-in-oil emulsifiers have a low HLB value (about 2 to about 8, preferably about 3 to about 7, more preferably about 4 to about 6), indicating that these emulsifiers are lipophilic and suitable for water-in-oil emulsions.

[0042] The water-in-oil emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan olivate, sorbitan sesquioleate, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearic acid, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, disteardimonium hectorite, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the water-in-oil emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of sorbitan isostearate, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, disteardimonium hectorite, and mixtures thereof.

[0043] The water-in-oil emulsifier may be present in the soft focus cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 15%, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, based on the total weight of the soft focus cosmetic composition.

[0044] Additional Components Soft focus cosmetic compositions may further contain other additional components, which may be selected by those skilled in the art according to the desired characteristics of the final product, and are suitable for making the composition more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or for providing the composition with additional use benefits.The components useful herein are conveniently classified according to certain benefits or their assumed modes of action, but the given classification does not limit their use.Furthermore, it is understood that one component may provide multiple benefits.

[0045] Oil-soluble active substances and water-soluble active substances The oil-soluble active agent may include any active agent mentioned in the additional components section, or mixtures thereof, that is partially or completely (and preferably completely) soluble in natural oils, preferably forming an equilibrium concentration of at least about 0.001 mg / mL at 25°C.

[0046] Preferably, the oil-soluble active may include sunflower (Helianthus annuus) seed cake, hordeum vulgare (barley) extract, cucumis sativus (cucumber) fruit extract, commiphora mukul resin extract, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, tribehenin, ceramide NG, PEG-10 phytosterols, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, phospholipids, caprylic / capric triglyceride, tocopherol, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, palmitic acid, phytosteryl canola oil fatty acid glycerides, triolein, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, tocopheryl acetate, or mixtures thereof.

[0047] One non-limiting example of an oil-soluble active is a composite of sunflower (Helianthus annuus) seed cake, hordeum vulgare (barley) extract, and cucumis sativus (cucumber) fruit extract. This composite can function as a barrier. This composite is available from Barnet under the trade name Phytofix-EC, which is a unique, optimized blend containing soluble sphingolipids, triglycerides, and sterols solubilized in squalane to mimic the structure of the skin membrane. One non-limiting example of an oil-soluble active is commiphora mukul resin extract, which can function to combat lines and wrinkles. This is a resin extract obtained from Commiphora mukul, a tree found in the arid regions of northwest India. It locally increases the size of fat cells, plumping the skin from within. Thanks to its "volumizing" effect, it restores skin volume and softens wrinkles. Another non-limiting example of an oil-soluble active substance is palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, which can act to combat wrinkles and lines. It is an anti-aging, wrinkle-smoothing, and skin barrier repair component. It stimulates cell communication and then repairs age-related skin damage.

[0048] The oil-soluble active substance may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to about 30%, preferably from about 1% to about 20%, and more preferably from about 2% to about 15%, based on the total weight of the soft focus cosmetic composition.

[0049] The water-soluble active agent may include any active agent mentioned in the additional components section, or mixtures thereof, that dissolves partially or completely (and preferably completely) in water, preferably forming an equilibrium concentration of at least about 0.001 mg / mL at 25°C.

[0050] The water-soluble active substance may include niacinamide, trehalose, acetyl hexapeptide-8, hyaluronic acid, sucrose, or a mixture thereof. Niacinamide and / or hyaluronic acid may function for moisturizing. Trehalose may function for moisturizing. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 may function to address wrinkles and lines. Sucrose may function for moisturizing.

[0051] The water-soluble active substance may be present in the soft focus cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to about 30%, preferably from about 1% to about 20%, and more preferably from about 2% to about 15%, based on the total weight of the soft focus cosmetic composition.

[0052] Antioxidants and radical scavengers Antioxidants and radical scavengers are particularly useful for providing protection against UV radiation, which can cause increased scaling or changes in texture in the stratum corneum, and other environmental factors that can cause skin damage. Such antioxidants / radical scavengers include, for example, tocopherol sorbate and other esters of tocopherol, and tocopherol sorbate.

[0053] anti-inflammatory agents Anti-inflammatory agents enhance the benefits of skin appearance, for example, by contributing to evenness and acceptable skin tone and / or color. Optionally, anti-inflammatory agents include steroidal and non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents. The steroidal anti-inflammatory agent can be hydrocortisone. So-called "natural" anti-inflammatory agents are also useful. For example, alpha bisabolol, aloe vera, manjistha (extracted from plants of the Rubia genus, particularly Rubia Cordifolia), and guggal (extracted from plants of the Commiphora genus, particularly Commiphora Mukul), cola extract, chamomile, and sea whip extract can also be used.

[0054] antimicrobial agents As used herein, "antimicrobial agent" refers to a compound capable of destroying microorganisms, preventing the development of microorganisms, or preventing the pathogenic action of microorganisms. Antimicrobial agents are useful, for example, in controlling acne. Preferred antimicrobial agents are benzoyl peroxide, erythromycin, tetracycline, clindamycin, azelaic acid, sulfur resorcinol, phenoxyethanol, and Irgasan™ DP 300 (Ciba Geigy Corp., USA). A safe and effective amount of an antimicrobial agent may be added to the emulsions herein, preferably 0.001% to 10%, more preferably 0.01% to 5%, and even more preferably 0.05% to 2%.

[0055] chelating agents As used herein, "chelating agent" refers to a compound that reacts to remove metal ions from a system by forming a complex so that the metal ions cannot readily participate in or catalyze chemical reactions. The inclusion of a chelating agent is particularly useful for providing protection against UV radiation, which can contribute to excessive scaling or changes in skin texture, and other environmental factors that can cause skin damage. Exemplary chelating agents useful herein are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,487,884 to Bissett et al., issued January 30, 1996, and patent applications Nos. 91 / 16035 and 91 / 16034 to Bush et al., published October 31, 1995. A preferred chelating agent is furildioxime and its derivatives.

[0056] Silicone elastomer The composition may contain a non-emulsifying crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer. As used herein, the term "non-emulsifying" defines a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer that is free of polyoxyalkylene units. Such elastomers are used to reduce the sticky / greasy feeling associated with skin conditioning agents.

[0057] The elastomer can be dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, C30-C45 alkyl ceteayl dimethicone / polycyclohexane oxide crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0058] Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers are supplied by a variety of suppliers, including Dow Corning (DC 9040 and DC 9041), General Electric (SFE 839), Shin Etsu (KSG-15, 16, 18 [dimethicone / phenylvinyl dimethicone crosspolymer]), and Grant Industries (GRANSIL™ series of elastomers). Crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers and processes for their preparation are further described in U.S. Patent No. 4,970,252, issued November 13, 1990 to Sakuta et al., U.S. Patent No. 5,760,116, issued June 2, 1998 to Kilgour et al., and U.S. Patent No. 5,654,362, issued August 5, 1997 to Schulz, Jr. et al.

[0059] Vinyl dimethicone / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymers include vinyl dimethicone / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer and mineral oil (trade name KSG-41), vinyl dimethicone / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer and isododecane (trade name KSG-42), vinyl dimethicone / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer and triethylhexanoin (trade name KSG-43), and vinyl dimethicone / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer and squalane (trade name KSG-44). Each of these "KSG" named silicone elastomers is available from Shinestu Chemical.

[0060] Commercially available cyclomethicone and C30-C45 alkyl ceteyl dimethicone / polycyclohexane oxide crosspolymer is available from GE Silicone under the trade name Velvasil 125.

[0061] Whitening agent The compositions herein may further comprise 0.001% to 10%, or 0.1% to 5%, of a whitening agent. Non-limiting examples of suitable whitening agents are those that are compatible with aqueous compositions. The whitening agent may include active ingredients that not only alter the appearance of the skin but also improve hyperpigmentation compared to pre-treatment.

[0062] Useful whitening agents may include ascorbic acid compounds, azelaic acid, butylhydroxyanisole, gallic acid and its derivatives, glycyrrhizic acid, hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, muriberry extract, and mixtures thereof. The use of a combination of whitening agents is believed to be advantageous in that they may provide whitening benefits through different mechanisms.

[0063] The ascorbic acid compound can be ascorbic acid salt or its derivative. Exemplary water-soluble salt derivatives include, but are not limited to, L-ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, L-ascorbyl phosphate ester salts, such as sodium L-ascorbyl phosphate, potassium L-ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium L-ascorbyl phosphate, calcium L-ascorbyl phosphate, and aluminum L-ascorbyl phosphate. L-ascorbyl sulfate ester salts can also be used. Examples include sodium L-ascorbyl sulfate, potassium L-ascorbyl sulfate, magnesium L-ascorbyl sulfate, calcium L-ascorbyl sulfate, and aluminum L-ascorbyl sulfate.

[0064] pH adjuster The composition may further comprise a pH adjuster to control the pH of the composition. In particular, the pH of the composition of the present disclosure is within the range of about 5 to about 8, or about 5.2 to about 7.8, or about 5.4 to about 7.6, such as about 5.4, about 5.6, about 5.8, about 6.0, about 6.2, about 6.4, about 6.6, about 6.8, about 7.0, about 7.2, about 7.4, about 7.6, and any range therebetween.

[0065] The composition may further comprise about 0.01% to about 5%, or about 0.1% to about 3%, or about 0.3% to about 2%, or about 0.4% to about 1.8%, and / or about 0.5% to about 1.6% by weight of the composition, e.g., about 0.4%, about 0.5%, about 0.6%, about 0.7%, about 0.8%, about 0.9%, about 1.0%, about 1.1%, about 1.2%, about 1.3%, about 1.4%, about 1.5%, about 1.6%, and any range therebetween, of a pH adjuster, wherein the pH adjuster is selected from the group consisting of potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, aminomethylpropanol, triethanolamine, tetrahydroxypropylethylenediamine, and any combination thereof.

[0066] When a polymeric emulsifier and a pH adjuster are used, it may be desirable to optimize the ratio of polymeric emulsifier to pH adjuster. For example, the weight ratio of polymeric emulsifier to pH adjuster can be from about 1:5 to about 1:0.5, or from about 1:3 to about 1:1, e.g., about 1:3, about 1:2.5, about 1:2, about 1:1.5, about 1:1.1, and any range therebetween.

[0067] thickener The composition may further comprise a thickening agent (also called a thickener), or an additional thickening agent if the emulsifier in the composition also functions as a thickening agent. The composition may comprise from about 0.1% to about 5%, or alternatively, from about 0.2% to about 2%, of the thickening agent, or additional thickening agent, if present. Suitable classes of thickening agents include, but are not limited to, carboxylic acid polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, sulfonated polymers, copolymers thereof, hydrophobically modified derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] The thickener may be an acrylate cross-linked silicone copolymer network (sometimes referred to as a "polyacrylate siloxane copolymer network"). Suitable thickeners may also generally include carboxylic acid polymers, polyacrylamide polymers or copolymers, sulfonated polymers, gums, clays, cellulose or modified cellulose compositions, and the like.

[0069] Other components In addition to the components described above, the compositions herein may further include preservatives and preservative enhancers, for example, water-soluble or solubilizing preservatives including Germall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, imidazolidinyl urea, EDTA and its salts, Bronopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol), and phenoxypropanol; antifoaming agents; binders; biological additives; bulking agents; colorants; essential oils and their solubilizers; other natural extracts; compounds that stimulate collagen production; yeast fermentation filtrates, and the like.

[0070] experiment Example 1 An oil blend was made by mixing 5 parts jojoba (Simmonsdia chinesis) seed oil, 5 parts coconut (Cocos nucifera) oil, 20 parts avocado (Persea gratissima) oil, 10 parts argan (Argania spinosa) kernel oil, 20 parts olive (Olea europaea) fruit oil, and 3.75 parts sunflower (Helianthus annuus) oil at room temperature until all dissolved. All parts are by weight.

[0071] Example 2 A cosmetic base (Sample 1) was made by mixing 7 parts of the oil mixture of Example 1 and 50 parts of water. A cosmetic composition was made by adding 5 parts of the particulate material (shown in Table 1) to 95 parts of the cosmetic base and mixing for approximately 15 minutes to ensure uniform and complete dispersion. All parts are by weight.

[0072] Spectral reflectance testing was performed on the resulting cosmetic compositions using a spectrophotometer (KONICA MINOLTA CM700D spectrophotometer). The samples were applied uniformly to PMMA Helioplate HD6 in circular and cross-spreading patterns with a finger and moderate pressure within 1 minute. The finger was cleaned with alcohol and pre-saturated with the sample. The application dose was 2 mg / cm as recommended by the FDA. 2 The prepared samples were allowed to dry at room temperature for 20 minutes before testing.

[0073] After calibration of the KONICA MINOLTA CM700D spectrophotometer, the instrument was set to reflectance spectral mode with both specular component included (SCI) and specular component excluded (SCE). For a larger measurement area, an 8 mm target mask was attached to the instrument. For full-color spectral analysis, the visible light spectrum from 400 nm to 700 nm was selected.

[0074] The prepared samples were placed on the black side of a Leneta chart card for reflectance testing to eliminate light reflection from the Leneta card background. Both diffuse and total reflectance were measured. Diffuse reflectance data was used as a blur index because it captures all light scattered by the cosmetic film at angles between 0 and 180 degrees. To compare blurring effects, diffuse reflectance at the peak of the spectrum was used. For example, in liquid foundation cosmetics, reflectance at a wavelength of 620 nm was used to represent the foundation shade.

[0075] [Table 1]

[0076] As shown in Table 1, Sample 3 (Sunspheres), Sample 4 (SH219), Sample 5 (SH219-AS), and Sample 6 (Chione HD Infinite White S130v) provided unexpectedly high diffuse reflectance (much higher than 2.5), thus achieving an unexpected soft-focus effect with these compositions based on natural oils.

[0077] Example 3 A cosmetic base (Sample 1) was prepared by mixing 7 parts of the oil mixture of Example 1 and 50 parts of water. A cosmetic composition was prepared by adding particulate materials to the cosmetic base according to the weight percentages in Table 2 and mixing for approximately 15 minutes to ensure complete uniformity and complete dispersion. All parts are by weight. Specific materials A is Chione HD Infinite White S130v (INCI: synthetic fluorphlogopite / titanium dioxide, purchased from BASF), B is SH219 (INCI: silica / titanium dioxide, purchased from Sunjin Beauty Science), and C is Sunspheres (INCI: styrene / acrylate copolymer, purchased from Dow).

[0078] Spectral reflectance testing was performed on the resulting cosmetic compositions using a spectrophotometer (KONICA MINOLTA CM700D spectrophotometer). The samples were uniformly applied to PMMA Helioplate HD6 in circular and cross-spreading patterns using a finger and moderate pressure within 1 minute. The finger was cleaned with alcohol and pre-saturated with the sample. The application dose was 2 mg / cm², as recommended by the FDA. The prepared samples were allowed to dry at room temperature for 20 minutes before testing.

[0079] After calibration of the KONICA MINOLTA CM700D spectrophotometer, the instrument was set to reflectance spectral mode with both specular component inclusion (SCI) and specular component exclusion (SCE). For a larger measurement area, an 8 mm target mask was attached to the instrument. For full-color spectral analysis, the visible light spectrum from 400 nm to 700 nm was selected.

[0080] The prepared samples were placed on the black side of a Leneta chart card for reflectance testing to eliminate light reflection from the Leneta card background. Both diffuse and total reflectance were measured. Specular reflectance was calculated using the formula (reflectance 合計 = reflectance 拡散 +Reflectance 正反射 ) was calculated. Diffuse reflectance data was used as a blur index because it captures all light scattered by the cosmetic film at angles between 0 and 180 degrees. To compare blurring effects, diffuse reflectance at the peak of the spectrum was used. For example, in liquid foundation cosmetics, reflectance at a wavelength of 620 nm was used to represent the shade of the foundation.

[0081] [Table 2]

[0082] As shown in Table 2, all samples provided unexpectedly high diffuse reflectance (greater than 2.5) and high specular reflectance (greater than 3.4), thus achieving unexpected instant soft focus and radiance effects with these natural oil-based compositions.

[0083] Example 3 A cosmetic base (Sample 1) was made by mixing 7 parts of the oil mixture of Example 1 and 50 parts of water. A soft focus cosmetic (Sample 24) composition was made as follows.

[0084] The ingredients of Sequence 1 were mixed and heated to 80°C in a homogenizer at 5000 RPM. The prepared oil of Sequence 2 was added to the mixture of Sequence 1 and mixed thoroughly. The water of Sequence 3 was heated to 75°C, and then the ingredients of Sequence 4 were added to the water and mixed thoroughly. The combined Sequences 3 and 4 were transferred to the combined Sequences 1 and 2 under a homogenizer increased to 8000 RPM, and then cooled to 30°C to form a cosmetic base. A soft focus cosmetic composition (Sample 24) was made by adding the ingredients of Sequence 5 to the cosmetic base and mixing for approximately 15 minutes to ensure uniform and complete dispersion.

[0085] [Table 3]

[0086] The comparative examples were commercially available products purchased on the market with known soft focus efficacy: Lancome Renergie Lift Makeup Foundation SPF 27 (Sample 25), IT Cosmetics CC+ Cream SPF 50+ (Sample 26), and Tarte Amazonian Clay 16 Hour Full Coverage Foundation (Sample 27).

[0087] Spectral reflectance testing was performed on the resulting cosmetic compositions using a spectrophotometer (KONICA MINOLTA CM700D spectrophotometer). The samples were uniformly applied to PMMA Helioplate HD6 in circular and cross-spreading patterns using a finger and moderate pressure within 1 minute. The finger was cleaned with alcohol and pre-saturated with the sample. The application dose was 2 mg / cm², as recommended by the FDA. The prepared samples were allowed to dry at room temperature for 20 minutes before testing.

[0088] After calibration of the KONICA MINOLTA CM700D spectrophotometer, the instrument was set to reflectance spectral mode with both specular component inclusion (SCI) and specular component exclusion (SCE). For a larger measurement area, an 8 mm target mask was attached to the instrument. For full-color spectral analysis, the visible light spectrum from 400 nm to 700 nm was selected.

[0089] The prepared samples were placed on the black side of a Leneta chart card for reflectance testing to eliminate light reflection from the Leneta card background. Both diffuse and total reflectance were measured. Specular reflectance was calculated using the formula (reflectance 合計 = reflectance 拡散 +Reflectance 正反射 ) was calculated. Diffuse reflectance data was used as a blur index because it captures all light scattered by the cosmetic film at angles between 0 and 180 degrees. To compare blurring effects, diffuse reflectance at the peak of the spectrum was used. For example, in liquid foundation cosmetics, reflectance at a wavelength of 620 nm was used to represent the shade of the foundation.

[0090] [Table 4]

[0091] As shown in Table 4, the soft focus cosmetic composition (Sample 24) exhibited a higher specular reflectance (3.79) than the benchmark, while still maintaining a very high soft focus effect (having a diffuse reflectance of 33.40, much higher than the required 2.5).

[0092] While the present disclosure and its advantages have been described in detail, it should be understood that various changes, substitutions, and alterations can be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the present disclosure, as defined by the appended claims. Moreover, the scope of the present application is not intended to be limited to the particular embodiments of the processes, machines, manufacture, compositions of matter, means, methods, and steps described herein. As one skilled in the art will readily understand from this disclosure, any existing or later-developed processes, machines, manufacture, compositions of matter, means, methods, or steps that perform substantially the same function or achieve substantially the same results as the corresponding embodiments described herein can be utilized in accordance with the present disclosure. Accordingly, the appended claims are intended to include within their scope such processes, machines, manufacture, compositions of matter, means, methods, or steps.

Claims

1. A soft-focus cosmetic composition comprising at least one natural oil, at least one blurring agent, and at least one water-in-oil emulsifier, wherein the soft-focus cosmetic composition has a diffuse reflectance of at least 2.

5.

2. 10. The soft focus cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one natural oil is selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, fermented vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.

3. 3. The soft focus cosmetic composition of claim 2, wherein the at least one natural oil is selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils and fermented vegetable oils made from Simmondsiaceae, Asteraceae, Arecaceae, Lauraceae, Oleaceae, Sapotaceae, and mixtures thereof.

4. 2. The soft-focus cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one natural oil is present in the soft-focus cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%, based on the total weight of the soft-focus cosmetic composition.

5. 10. The soft-focus cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein said at least one blurring agent comprises a particulate material having an average particle size of less than 50 microns.

6. The soft-focus cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein said at least one blurring agent comprises an effect pigment.

7. 8. The soft-focus cosmetic composition of claim 7, wherein said effect pigment comprises transparent synthetic mica.

8. 9. The soft-focus cosmetic composition of claim 8, wherein said effect pigment comprises titanium dioxide coated on a transparent synthetic mica substrate.

9. 8. The soft-focus cosmetic composition of claim 7, wherein said effect pigment is present in an amount ranging from 0% to about 10%, based on the total weight of said soft-focus cosmetic composition.

10. The soft-focus cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the at least one blurring agent comprises a silica-based material.

11. The soft-focus cosmetic composition of claim 11 , wherein the silica-based material comprises porous spherical silica microspheres.

12. 13. The soft-focus cosmetic composition of claim 12, wherein said silica-based material comprises titanium dioxide particles encapsulated in porous silica microspheres.

13. 14. The soft-focus cosmetic composition according to claim 13, wherein the weight ratio of said titanium dioxide particles to said porous spherical silica microspheres in said silica-based material ranges from about 1:10 to about 1:

1.

14. The soft-focus cosmetic composition of claim 11, wherein the silica-based material is present in an amount ranging from 0% to about 10%, based on the total weight of the soft-focus cosmetic composition.

15. The soft-focus cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the at least one blurring agent comprises a polymeric material.

16. 17. The soft-focus cosmetic composition of claim 16, wherein the polymeric material comprises a styrene / acrylate copolymer.

17. 18. The soft-focus cosmetic composition of claim 17, wherein said polymeric material comprises a styrene / acrylate copolymer in the form of hollow spherical particles.

18. The soft-focus cosmetic composition of claim 16, wherein the polymeric material is present in an amount ranging from 0% to about 10%, based on the total weight of the soft-focus cosmetic composition.

19. 17. The soft-focus cosmetic composition of claim 16, wherein said at least one water-in-oil emulsifier has an HLB value of from about 2 to about 8.

20. 10. The soft-focus cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the soft-focus cosmetic composition is a water-in-oil emulsion, and the at least one natural oil is in the external phase of the water-in-oil emulsion.

21. 10. The soft-focus cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the soft-focus cosmetic composition has a specular reflectance of at least 3.

4.

22. 1. A soft focus cosmetic composition comprising: at least one natural oil present in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%; at least one blurring agent present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to about 20%, said at least one blurring agent being selected from the group consisting of effect pigments, silica-based materials, polymeric materials, and mixtures thereof; at least one water-in-oil emulsifier present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 20%, All percentages are based on the total weight of the soft focus cosmetic composition, The soft focus cosmetic composition has a diffuse reflectance of at least 2.5, The soft focus cosmetic composition has a specular reflectance of at least 3.4, A soft focus cosmetic composition, wherein the soft focus cosmetic composition is a water-in-oil composition.

23. 1. A method for reducing the appearance of skin imperfections, comprising: a) identifying an area of skin requiring reduction in the appearance of said skin defect; b) topically applying to the skin area a soft-focus cosmetic composition, the soft-focus cosmetic composition comprising at least one natural oil, at least one blurring agent, and at least one water-in-oil emulsifier, and the soft-focus cosmetic composition having a diffuse reflectance of at least 2.

5.

24. The soft focus cosmetic composition comprises: at least one natural oil present in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%; at least one blurring agent present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to about 20%, said at least one blurring agent being selected from the group consisting of effect pigments, silica-based materials, polymeric materials, and mixtures thereof; at least one water-in-oil emulsifier present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 20%, All percentages are based on the total weight of the soft focus cosmetic composition, The soft focus cosmetic composition has a diffuse reflectance of at least 2.5, The soft focus cosmetic composition has a specular reflectance of at least 3.4, 24. The method for reducing the appearance of skin imperfections according to claim 23, wherein said soft focus cosmetic composition is a water-in-oil composition.

25. 24. The method for reducing the appearance of skin imperfections according to claim 23, wherein the effect of reducing the appearance of skin imperfections is immediate upon application of the soft focus cosmetic composition.

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