Alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L. (Jasminum grandiflorum L.), method for obtaining same, and cosmetic composition containing same

Abstract

The present invention relates to an extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., a method for obtaining it, a cosmetic composition containing it, and various cosmetic uses.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to an extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., a method for obtaining it, a cosmetic composition containing it, and various cosmetic uses. [Background technology]

[0002] Currently, pollution, especially in urban areas, poses a serious threat to health, first affecting the skin, the body part most exposed to pollutants.

[0003] Pollution refers to the contamination of the internal or external environment by chemical, physical, or biological factors. Air pollution is mainly composed of two types of primary pollutants: particulate matter (PM), commonly referred to as fine particles (PM 2.5 μm, PM 10 μm), and gases (O3, CO2, CO, SO2, NO2) or volatile organic compounds. Small particles are mainly produced by combustion, while large particles are produced by mechanical processes, which generate dust particles that become airborne on the wind.

[0004] Due to its critical location, the skin is the primary interface between the body and the environment and constitutes a biological barrier against chemical and physical environmental agents.

[0005] The skin is a protective casing that prevents penetration by substances smaller than 20-200 nm in size. The superficial layer of the skin forms a physical, chemical, and immunological barrier against the entry of harmful environmental substances, including ambient particles, as well as pathogens and allergens. When this barrier is intact, pollutants (mainly ozone) cannot penetrate the skin, preventing disruption of biological mechanisms related to inflammation, immune responses, water evaporation, and extracellular matrix degradation.

[0006] The effects of pollution on the skin can be manifested in a variety of ways, among which the following can be mentioned: - Appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, pigmented spots, - Dull complexion, - dry skin, - Sebum secretion, - Acne, - Skin irritation. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0007] This has created a need to provide multifunctional active agents that effectively combat the harmful effects of pollution and maintain and restore the skin's barrier function in order to maintain optimal barrier function.

[0008] In fact, the applicant has discovered that an alcoholic extract obtained by a specific method from the stems of jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum L.) exhibits effective effects against the adverse effects of pollution, particularly in strengthening the skin barrier, moisturizing, rebuilding the skin matrix, and protecting against pollution. This is because, as demonstrated by the examples, the alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum L.) according to the present invention combats the adverse effects of pollution by stimulating targets related to skin barrier function, such as AQP1, CASP14, KRT1, KRT10, TGFb2, and FLG. Furthermore, this extract can improve matrix structure rebuilding by stimulating COL4A1, COL8A1, DPT, and P4HA1. [Means for solving the problem]

[0009] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to an alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., comprising at least oleuropein, isoquercitrin and ursolic acid.

[0010] Another subject of the present invention is, according to a second aspect, a method for the extraction of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., comprising the following steps: a) crushing the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L.; b) extracting the crushed stems at least once, preferably at least twice, in the presence of a first alcoholic solvent, with a filtration step after each extraction; c) combining the filtrates obtained from the extraction of step b) and then filtering the mixture; d) concentrating the mixture obtained in step c) to obtain an extract with a dry matter content of 8% to 13%, the remainder of the extract being composed of the first alcohol solvent; e) adding a second alcoholic solvent different from the first alcoholic solvent used in step b) to the concentrated extract obtained in step d), followed by removing the first alcoholic solvent to a final concentration of less than 0.5%; f) final dilution of the extract obtained in step e) in the same alcoholic solvent as the second alcoholic solvent used in step e); g) optionally filtering the extract obtained in step f); The method includes:

[0011] The present invention also relates to an alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., obtained by such a method.

[0012] The present invention further relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the present invention, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. The term "cosmetically acceptable vehicle" is understood to mean a medium that is compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, and superficial body growths. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is suitable for topical application.

[0013] The alcoholic extract of the present invention is obtained from the stems, vines, or branches of Jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L. Preferably, dried jasmine stems are used. These dried jasmine stems are obtained from fresh stems that can be dehydrated in sunlight or under vacuum at temperatures up to 60°C. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] Jasminum grandiflorum L. is a species of the genus Jasminum in the family Oleaceae, and is also known as royal jasmine, Spanish jasmine, Catalan jasmine, and Sicilian jasmine.

[0015] Jasminum grandiflorum grows as a shrub about 2-4 m tall. The branches are green, hairless, and striated. The leaves are deciduous to semi-evergreen. Its flexible stems bear evergreen leaves and large white flowers.

[0016] The inventors focused on jasmine stems, which are obtained during the annual pruning from November to December after flower harvesting, which is necessary for plant growth. This makes it possible to increase the value of this by-product, particularly that of flower harvesting.

[0017] The dry extract of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., the subject of the present invention, is composed of several systems of interesting primary and secondary metabolites.

[0018] The alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., which is the subject of the present invention, contains in particular at least oleuropein, isoquercitrin and ursolic acid.

[0019] In particular, the alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the present invention, contains, in weight percentage relative to the total weight of the dry extract: - 1% to 10% by weight, preferably 5% to 7% by weight, of oleuropein, - 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.3% to 0.5% by weight, of isoquercitrin, and 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 0.7% by weight, of ursolic acid Includes.

[0020] Oleuropein has the following formula I: [ka] is a compound equivalent to

[0021] Isoquercitrin has the following formula II: [ka] is a compound equivalent to

[0022] Ursolic acid has the following formula III: [ka] is a compound equivalent to

[0023] Preferably, the alcoholic extract of jasmine stems of the present invention further contains sugars and / or mannitol, for example, in a weight percentage of 40% to 70% by weight, preferably 50% to 60% by weight, of sugars and / or mannitol relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0024] In particular, the alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the present invention, contains, in weight percentage relative to the total weight of the dry extract: - 40% to 70% by weight, preferably 50% to 60% by weight, of sugars and / or mannitol, 1% to 10% by weight, preferably 5% to 7% by weight, of oleuropein - 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.3% to 0.5% by weight, of isoquercitrin, and 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 7% by weight, of ursolic acid Includes:

[0025] The sugars present in the jasmine stem extract according to the invention preferably comprise fructose, glucose and / or sucrose, in particular 2% to 5% by weight of fructose, 20% to 25% by weight of glucose and / or 2% to 5% by weight of sucrose, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0026] Preferably, the jasmine stem extract according to the present invention contains 20% to 25% by weight of mannitol relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0027] It is the credit of the applicant company that it has succeeded in preparing an extract of jasmine stem containing at least oleuropein, isoquercitrin, and ursolic acid, from which its uniqueness derives.

[0028] The invention that is the subject of this patent application is a method for extracting the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., comprising the following steps: a) crushing the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L.; b) extracting the crushed stems at least once, preferably at least twice, in the presence of a first alcoholic solvent, with a filtration step after each extraction; c) combining the filtrates obtained from the extraction of step b) and then filtering the mixture; d) concentrating the mixture obtained in step c) to obtain an extract having a dry matter content of 8% to 13%, the remainder of the extract being composed of the first alcohol solvent; e) adding a second alcoholic solvent different from the first alcoholic solvent used in step b) to the concentrated extract obtained in step d), followed by removing the first alcoholic solvent to a final concentration of less than 0.5%; f) final dilution of the extract obtained in step e) in the same alcoholic solvent as the second alcoholic solvent used in step e); g) optionally filtering the extract obtained in step f); The present invention relates to a method comprising:

[0029] Preferably, the jasmine stems used in step a) are dried stems. These dried stems are obtained from fresh stems that can be dehydrated in sunlight or under vacuum at temperatures ranging up to 60°C.

[0030] They are in particular ground or broken down into pieces by any method known to those skilled in the art, for example to particles of less than 2 cm.

[0031] In step b), the crushed jasmine stems are extracted at least once, preferably at least twice, with one or more alcoholic solvents, i.e., the first alcoholic solvent, selected from C1-C4 monoalcohols, such as methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, or isobutanol.

[0032] Preferably, the first alcohol solvent in step b) is a monoalcohol containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably ethanol.

[0033] In particular, ethanol is used as a 96% mixture with water.

[0034] Extraction is generally carried out by immersing jasmine stems in one or more of the above solvents with gentle stirring for 1 to 6 hours, preferably 2 to 4 hours, at a temperature of 50°C to 70°C, preferably 55°C to 65°C.

[0035] Preferably, the jasmine stems are extracted in ethanol at a ratio of 1 / 10 weight of jasmine stems to weight of ethanol.

[0036] Following the extraction step b), plant residues are removed, for example by filtration on a 100 μm filter membrane.

[0037] According to a preferred embodiment, step b) utilizes at least two extractions, each followed by a filtration step, preferably the first extraction being carried out at a temperature of 60° C. for 4 hours and the second extraction being carried out at a temperature of 60° C. for 2 hours.

[0038] Once the extraction step(s) b) are completed, the liquid filtrates are collected and mixed.

[0039] In step c), the filtrate or the combined filtrate obtained from the extraction in step b) is filtered again, preferably on a 15 μm filter membrane, to remove insoluble materials, thereby obtaining a liquid filtrate.

[0040] Preferably, between steps c) and d), a step of decolorization of the mixture obtained in c) is added. Decolorization can be carried out by adsorbing the pigments present in the filtrate onto activated carbon. Preferably, the activated carbon represents 40% by weight of the extract dry substance. This decolorization step can be followed by a step of filtering the obtained decolorized filtrate, preferably on a 4 μm filter membrane, to remove the loaded activated carbon.

[0041] In step d), the mixture obtained in step c) is concentrated to obtain an extract having a dry matter content of 8% to 13%, the remainder of the extract being composed of the first alcoholic solvent. Preferably, the dry matter content of the concentrated extract obtained in step d) is 10% to 11%.

[0042] Preferably, the concentration in step d) is carried out by evaporation, in particular by partial evaporation under reduced pressure, for example using a rotary evaporator or thin-film evaporator.

[0043] In step e), a second alcoholic solvent different from the first alcoholic solvent used in step b) is subsequently added to the concentrated extract obtained in step d), after which the first alcoholic solvent is removed to a final concentration of less than 0.5%.

[0044] The second alcoholic solvent of step e) is selected from C1-C4 monoalcohols, such as methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol or isobutanol; polyols, in particular diols, such as propylene glycol, 1,3-propanodiol or dipropylene glycol, or triols, such as glycerol.

[0045] Preferably, the second alcohol solvent in step e) is a polyol containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably 1,3-propanodiol.

[0046] More preferably, the first alcohol solvent in step b) is a monoalcohol containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably ethanol, and the second alcohol solvent in steps e) and f) is a polyol containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably 1,3-propanediol.

[0047] Preferably, the removal of the first alcohol solvent in step e) is carried out by evaporation, in particular by complete evaporation under reduced pressure, for example using a thin film evaporator.

[0048] In particular, in step e), the second alcoholic solvent is added in a proportion corresponding to 5 to 7 times, preferably 6 times, the weight of the dried extract of the filtrate obtained in step d).

[0049] Finally, in step f), the extract obtained in step e) is diluted in an alcoholic solvent identical to the second alcoholic solvent used in step e) and as defined above, preferably a polyol containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably 1,3-propanol.

[0050] Preferably, the extract obtained in step f) has a dry matter content of between 9.5% and 10.5%, preferably 10%.

[0051] Optionally, in step g), the extract obtained in step f) is filtered, preferably on a 4 μm membrane filter.

[0052] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, between steps d) and e), there is added a step of storing and cooling the concentrated extract obtained in step d), preferably at a temperature of 4°C for at least 24 hours, followed by a filtration step, preferably on a 40 μm filter membrane; and / or (ii) Between steps e) and f) there is added a step of storing and cooling the extract obtained in step e), preferably at 4°C for at least 24 hours, followed by a filtration step, preferably on a 15 μm membrane filter.

[0053] Preferably, the alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the present invention is prepared by the following steps: a) crushing the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L.; b) extracting the crushed stems at least once, preferably at least twice, in the presence of a first alcoholic solvent, with a filtration step after each extraction; c) combining the filtrates obtained from the extraction of step b) and then filtering the mixture; d) concentrating the mixture obtained in step c) to obtain an extract having a dry matter content of 8% to 13%, the remainder of the extract being composed of the first alcohol solvent; e) adding a second alcoholic solvent different from the first alcoholic solvent used in step b) to the concentrated extract obtained in step d), followed by removing the first alcoholic solvent to a final concentration of less than 0.5%; f) final dilution of the extract obtained in step e) in the same alcoholic solvent as the second alcoholic solvent used in step e); g) optionally filtering the extract obtained in step f); It can be produced by the above method comprising:

[0054] Advantageously, the extract used according to the invention is light in color.

[0055] Likewise, the extracts are provided in a sufficiently concentrated form to be usable in cosmetic or dermatological compositions in emulsion form at the concentrations required to obtain activity, without causing the formulation problems usually encountered and without, in concentrated form, being dark in color, unlike plant extracts obtained in the usual way.

[0056] In particular, after evaporation of the ethanol, the extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., contains 5% to 15% by weight of jasmine dry extract and 85% to 95% by weight of 1,3-propanodiol, preferably 10% by weight of jasmine dry extract and 90% by weight of 1,3-propanodiol.

[0057] The extract according to the invention can therefore be used directly for the preparation of cosmetic compositions.

[0058] In another aspect, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the present invention, for protecting the skin against the harmful effects of pollution, for example against a mixture of pollution composed of tobacco smoke and urban dust extract.

[0059] According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the present invention, for improving the restructuring of matrix structure.

[0060] According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the present invention, for improving the skin barrier function and / or skin moisturization.

[0061] This is because, advantageously, the alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the present invention has been found to counteract the adverse effects of pollution by stimulating targets related to skin barrier function, such as AQP1, CASP14, KRT1, KRT10, TGFb2 and FLG.

[0062] Particularly advantageously, it has been found that the alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the invention, makes it possible to improve the remodelling of matrix structure by stimulating COL4A1, COL8A1, DPT and P4HA1.

[0063] In yet another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the present invention, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. Preferably, the extract is present in the cosmetic or dermatological composition in an amount of 0.001% to 10% by weight, particularly 0.01% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic or dermatological composition is suitable for topical application.

[0064] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition may be provided in the form of a powder, emulsion, microemulsion, nanoemulsion, suspension, solution, lotion, cream, water or water / alcohol gel, foam, serum, a solution or dispersion for aerosolization, or a dispersion of lipid vesicles.

[0065] In the case of emulsions, they can be water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions.

[0066] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be provided in the form of a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably facial keratinous materials.

[0067] In particular, the composition of the invention can be provided in the form of an anti-aging care composition for the skin, in particular the skin of the face.

[0068] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention may be provided in the form of a facial makeup composition, in particular in the form of a skin-tone-based foundation, or in the form of a tinted cream.

[0069] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain a solvent selected as a function of the various ingredients and the form of administration.

[0070] Examples include water (preferably deionized water or floral water) or alcohol, such as ethanol.

[0071] The cosmetic composition may comprise, in addition to the extract according to the present invention, at least one additive that is conventional in the art, such as at least one compound selected from emollients or moisturizers, gelling and / or thickening agents, surfactants, oils, active agents, colorants, preservatives, antioxidants, activators, organic or inorganic powders, sunscreens, and fragrances.

[0072] one or more moisturizing agents such as polyols (glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol), sugars, glycosaminoglycans, for example hyaluronic acid and its salts and esters, and polyquaterniums.

[0073] The humectant is present in the composition in an amount of about 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.005% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] one or more emollients which may be chosen, for example, from esters such as jojoba esters, esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols (octyldodecyl myristate, triethylhexanoin, dicaprylyl carbonate, isostearyl isostearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride), butters such as shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii butter extract, shea butter ethyl ester) or moringa butter (moringa oil / hydrogenated moringa oil esters), waxes (Acacia decurrens flower wax and Helianthus annuus Cera seed wax C10-18 triglyceride), vegetable oils, phytosqualane or alkanes (undecane, tridecane).

[0075] The emollient is present in the composition in an amount of about 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] one or more gelling agents and / or thickening agents for the aqueous phase, chosen, for example, from cellulose derivatives, gums of plant origin (guar, locust bean, alginates, carrageenan, pectin), gums of microbial origin (xanthan), clays (laponite), crosslinked or non-crosslinked and hydrophilic or amphiphilic homo- and copolymers of acryloylmethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and / or acrylamide and / or acrylic acid and / or acrylate salts or esters (for example ammonium AMP / VP copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / AMPS copolymer, sodium acrylate / AMPS copolymer, acrylamide / AMPS copolymer, acrylate copolymer, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, sodium polyacrylate).

[0077] The gelling agent and / or thickening agent is present in the composition in an amount of about 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] one or more surfactants, in particular: * Anionic surfactants, such as isethionates, taurates, sarcosinates, glycinates, glutamates, phosphates, such as C20-22 alkyl phosphates; * amphoteric surfactants, such as betaine derivatives or amphoacetates, * Nonionic surfactants, such as polyglycerol derivatives, glucoside derivatives (e.g., cetearyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside), xyloside derivatives, and lecithin.

[0079] The surfactant is present in an amount of about 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] - one or more film-forming agents, such as polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, gum arabic (Acacia Senegal Gum), damar, elemis, copal, cellulose polymers, polymers extracted from the fruits of Caesalpinia spinosa and / or from the seaweed Kappaphycus alvarezii, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] The film-forming agent is present in an amount of about 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] - one or more colorants selected from pigments, pearlescent agents, or soluble dyes, preferably water-soluble dyes. The pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic. The inorganic pigments can be selected from zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and zinc oxide, iron oxide, or chromium oxide or titanium dioxide. The pearlescent agents can be selected from pearlescent pigments including mica coated with iron oxide or titanium oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica coated with chromium oxide or titanium oxide, or mica coated with organic dyes, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0083] The colorant is present in an amount of about 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] - one or more fillers selected from lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, and silica.

[0085] The filler is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] one or more active agents of natural, biotechnological or synthetic origin, which are biologically active and exert their effect on the skin via a biological site, such as vitamins, for example vitamin C and its derivatives (ascorbyl glucoside, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate), vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamin B3 or niacinamide, panthenol, trace elements, allantoin, adenosine, peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-5), plant extracts (Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, Centella asiatica leaf extract, rye seed extract), yeast extract, alpha-hydroxy acids, for example glycolic acid or lactic acid, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, for example cetyltranexamic acid.

[0087] The active ingredient is present in the composition in an amount of about 0.1% to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0088] Other additives commonly used in cosmetics may also be included in the compositions of the present invention, including, among others, preservatives, antioxidants, and fragrances well known in the art.

[0089] Among these possible additives, the person skilled in the art is able to select both the nature and the amount of additives to be added to the composition so that the composition maintains all of its properties.

[0090] The invention is illustrated, but not limited, by the following examples. [Example]

[0091] Example 1: Preparation of an alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the present invention An alcoholic extract of the stems of Jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the present invention was prepared by a method comprising the following steps: 1 kg of fresh branches were dried by dehydration in the sun or under vacuum at temperatures ranging up to 60°C, and then coarsely ground. The branches were extracted in 10 kg of 96° ethanol by stirring at 60°C for 4 hours; · The mixture was sieved through 100 μm, the residue was collected and the extract was separated; · The residue was re-extracted in 8 kg of 96° ethanol by stirring at 60°C for 2 hours; · Residual crushed branches were removed by solid / liquid separation, and the liquid fractions were combined and then filtered at 15 μm; · The ethanol fraction was decolorized with 140 g of activated carbon (40% by weight based on the extract dry matter) by stirring at ambient temperature for 3 h; · The activated carbon was then removed by filtration at 4 μm; · Concentrating the ethanol extract by evaporating the ethanol on a rotary evaporator or falling film evaporator to obtain a concentrated extract with 10%-11% dry matter; · The combined product was stored at 4°C for several days; The solid phase was removed by 40 μm filtration; · A determination of dry matter was made in the extract, which contained 61 g of dry extract; Propanediol was added in an amount six times the weight of the extract, i.e., 368 g. The ethanol was completely evaporated on a thin-film evaporator (final ethanol concentration less than 0.5%); · The extract was left overnight at 4°C and filtered at 15 μm; · 367g of propanediol was added, bringing the dry extract to a concentration of 10%; · Final filtration was performed at 4 μm; 780g of final extract was obtained.

[0092] Example 2: Regulation of gene expression related to skin barrier function and matrix remodeling in skin grafts stressed with a mixture of pollutants and treated with jasmine stem extract Protocol: Skin grafts from three different donors were provided on day 0, with two technical replicates for each condition. To evaluate the cytotoxicity of jasmine stem extract, a test was performed using alamarBlue. Consequently, 50 μl of the non-cytotoxic final extract (0.01% or 0.05%) obtained in Example 1 was applied to the upper surface of the skin for 1 hour, and the grafts were gently massaged using a cotton swab (covered with parafilm). In the control condition, PBS (phosphate-buffered saline) was used and applied to the skin grafts in the same manner. Additionally, the extract was introduced into the culture medium at the above concentrations (systemic application). After 1 hour, excess fluid was removed. The same protocol was performed on day 3 (replaced with fresh extract), inducing stress for 6 hours using a mixture of pollutants consisting of cigarette smoke and urban dust extract. After the stress period (6 hours), each skin graft was removed from the insert and placed in a lysis tube for RNA extraction using QIAzol and the GeneJet RNA Purification Kit according to the supplier's instructions. Real-time reverse transcription and PCR were then performed to quantify the modulation of gene expression. mRNA expression levels were normalized to the following reference genes: YWHAZ, GAPDH, HPRT, β-actin, and RPL13. Results were expressed as induction thresholds relative to the PBS control condition and the contaminant mixture condition without jasmine stem extract treatment (stress control) and were obtained using the ΔΔCt method. Ct is the number of cycles required to generate a fluorescent signal above a predefined threshold (the more targets, the fewer cycles required to reach this threshold). Genes of primary interest were those in the Ct < 20 category.

[0093] Results: Application of the pollutant mixture (stress control) to normal skin showed a decrease in the expression of genes related to various skin mechanisms, such as barrier function or matrix remodeling, compared to the PBS control condition (Table II). Jasmine stem extract countered the adverse effects of pollution by stimulating targets related to skin barrier function, such as AQP1, CASP14, KRT1, KRT10, TGFb2, and FLG, as well as targets related to matrix structure remodeling by stimulating COL4A1, COL8A1, DPT, and P4HA1. The induction thresholds for gene expression are defined in Table I. The functional definitions and classifications of the above-mentioned regulated genes are explained in Table III.

[0094] [Table 1]

[0095] [Table 2]

[0096] [Table 3]

[0097] Conclusion: As shown in Table II, due to its ability to combat the harmful effects of pollution, jasmine stem extract exhibits certain cosmetic properties in strengthening the skin barrier, moisturizing, reconstructing the skin matrix and protecting against pollution.

[0098] Example 3: Cosmetic Composition The following compositions can be prepared by methods routinely used by those skilled in the art. The amounts given below are expressed as weight percentages. Ingredients in capital letters are identified according to the INCI name.

[0099] [Table 4]

[0100] [Table 5]

[0101] Example 4: Composition of the alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to the present invention The alcoholic extract of jasmine stem according to the present invention contains a diverse array of primary and secondary metabolites. Primary metabolites identified include glucose, fructose, sucrose, and mannitol. Secondary metabolites identified include oleuropein, isoquercitrin, and ursolic acid (Table IV).

[0102] [Table 6]

Claims

1. An alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., containing at least oleuropein, isoquercitrin, and ursolic acid.

2. Percentage by weight based on the total weight of the dry extract: - 40% to 70% by weight, preferably 50% to 60% by weight, of sugars and / or mannitol, - from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 5% to 7% by weight, of oleuropein, - 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.3% to 0.5% by weight, of isoquercitrin, and - 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 0.7% by weight, of ursolic acid The alcoholic extract of jasmine stems according to claim 1, comprising:

3. 3. An alcoholic extract of jasmine stems according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the sugars comprise fructose, glucose and / or sucrose, preferably comprising, in weight percentages relative to the total weight of the dry extract, 2% to 5% by weight of fructose, 20% to 25% by weight of glucose, and / or 2% to 5% by weight of sucrose, and / or 20% to 25% by weight of mannitol.

4. 1. A method for extracting the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., comprising the steps of: a) crushing the stems of the jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L.; b) extracting the crushed stems at least once, preferably at least twice, in the presence of a first alcoholic solvent, with a filtration step after each extraction; c) combining the filtrates obtained from the extraction of step b) and then filtering the mixture; d) concentrating the mixture obtained in step c) to obtain an extract with a dry matter content of 8% to 13%, the remainder of the extract being composed of the first alcoholic solvent; e) adding a second alcoholic solvent different from the first alcoholic solvent used in step b) to the concentrated extract obtained in step d), followed by removing the first alcoholic solvent to a final concentration of less than 0.5%; f) final dilution of the extract obtained in step e) in the same alcoholic solvent as the second alcoholic solvent used in step e); g) optionally filtering the extract obtained in step f); A method comprising:

5. 5. Process according to claim 4, characterized in that said extraction of step b) is carried out at a temperature between 50°C and 70°C, preferably between 55°C and 65°C, for a period of 1 to 6 hours, preferably between 2 and 4 hours.

6. 6. The method according to claim 4 or 5, characterized in that the first alcohol solvent of step b) is a monoalcohol containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol, and the second alcohol solvent of steps e) and f) is a polyol containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably 1,3-propanediol.

7. 7. The method according to any one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that it comprises, between steps c) and d), an additional step of decolorization of the mixture obtained in step c), preferably by adsorption on activated carbon, followed by filtration of the obtained decolorized filtrate, preferably on a 4 μm membrane filter.

8. 8. The method according to claim 4, wherein the concentration in step d) is carried out by evaporation, in particular by partial evaporation under reduced pressure, and / or the removal of the first alcohol solvent in step e) is carried out by evaporation, in particular by complete evaporation under reduced pressure.

9. 9. The method according to any one of claims 4 to 8, characterized in that in step e) the second alcoholic solvent is added in a proportion corresponding to 5 to 7 times, preferably 6 times the weight of the dried extract of the filtrate obtained in step d).

10. (i) between steps d) and e), an additional step of storing and cooling the concentrated extract obtained in step d) preferably at a temperature of 4°C for at least 24 hours, followed by a filtration step, preferably on a 40 μm filter membrane; and / or (ii) Between steps e) and f), a step of storing and cooling the extract obtained in step e) is added, preferably at 4°C for at least 24 hours, followed by a filtration step, preferably on a 15 μm filter membrane. The method according to any one of claims 4 to 9, characterized in that

11. (i) after each extraction of step b) a filtration on a 100 μm membrane is carried out; and / or (ii) the filtration carried out in step c) is carried out on a 15 μm filtration membrane, and / or (iii) the filtration carried out in step g) is carried out on a 4 μm filtration membrane; The method according to any one of claims 4 to 10, characterized in that

12. (i) the concentrated extract obtained in step d) has a dry matter content of 10% to 11%; and / or (ii) the extract obtained in step f) has a dry matter content of 9.5% to 10.5%, preferably 10%. The method according to any one of claims 4 to 11, characterized in that

13. 13. An alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., characterized in that it can be obtained by the method according to any one of claims 4 to 12.

14. 4. Cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to any one of claims 1 to 3, for protecting the skin from the harmful effects of pollution and / or for improving the skin's barrier function and skin moisturization.

15. A cosmetic composition comprising an alcoholic extract of the stems of jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum L., according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

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