Soft-texture cosmetic composition containing ceramides

A cosmetic composition with ceramide, glyceryl stearate, and polyglyceryl-based softener, optionally with myristyl myristate, addresses the formulation challenges of ceramide gelation and texture issues, ensuring stability and a soft, pleasant feel.

JP2026513481APending Publication Date: 2026-04-27エルジー·エイチアンドエイチ·カンパニー·リミテッド
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
エルジー·エイチアンドエイチ·カンパニー·リミテッド
Filing Date
2024-04-24
Publication Date
2026-04-27

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Ceramide, due to its poor solubility in water and oil and high recrystallinity, forms gels over time, making it difficult to formulate in cosmetics, and existing formulations with high polar oils or waxes result in a heavy and stuffy texture that does not meet consumer preferences for a light and refreshing feel.

Method used

A cosmetic composition comprising ceramide, glyceryl stearate, and a polyglyceryl-based softener, with optional myristyl myristate, to prevent gelation and ensure stability, while achieving a soft texture and appropriate hardness.

Benefits of technology

The composition maintains ceramide stability during long-term storage and low temperatures, providing a soft and pleasant texture without gelation, and allows for adjustable hardness suitable for various cosmetic forms.

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Abstract

This invention relates to a cosmetic composition with excellent dosage form stability, containing ceramide, glyceryl stearate, and a polyglyceryl-based softener. When ceramide is included together with the polyglyceryl-based softener and glyceryl stearate, gelation by the ceramide does not occur even when a non-polar oil or silicone oil that interferes with the dissolution of ceramide is also included. The stability of the ceramide is ensured even during long-term storage or storage at low temperatures. The addition of myristyl myristate provides a soft texture while maintaining high hardness.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition excellent in the stability of a dosage form containing ceramide, glyceryl stearate, and a polyglyceryl-based softening agent.

Background Art

[0002] Ceramide is a component that constitutes the stratum corneum of the skin and is important for maintaining the moisture of the skin, and has been widely used in cosmetics. Despite such advantages, ceramide is difficult to formulate due to its poor solubility in both water and oil, and even if a dosage form is realized, it gels over time due to its high recrystallinity, so it may be difficult to apply a large amount in a product. In order to include a large amount of ceramide in cosmetics while solving such problems, attempts have been made to blend a large amount of ceramide together with highly polar oils, lecithin, aliphatic alcohols, or waxes. However, such attempts have a problem that they do not meet the preferences of consumers who desire a light and refreshing texture because of the heavy and stuffy texture or hard feeling due to high hardness.

[0003] Therefore, there is a need to develop a cosmetic composition that can prevent the recrystallization of ceramide while realizing a texture that meets the preferences of consumers.

Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0004] Therefore, the present inventors have tried to develop a stable cosmetic composition containing ceramide having the above problems, and for that purpose, have developed a cosmetic dosage form based on a polyglyceryl-based softening agent.

[0005] After the efforts described above, we confirmed that by including ceramide together with a polyglyceryl-based softener and glyceryl stearate, gelation by ceramide does not occur even when combined with non-polar oils or silicone oils that interfere with ceramide dissolution. We also confirmed that the stability of ceramide is ensured even during long-term storage or storage at low temperatures. Furthermore, we confirmed that by adding myristyl myristate, it is possible to achieve a soft texture while maintaining high hardness, thus completing the present invention. [Means for solving the problem]

[0006] To achieve the above objective, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising ceramide, glyceryl stearate, and a polyglyceryl-based softener.

[0007] Another object of the present invention is to provide uses for ceramide, glyceryl stearate, and polyglyceryl-based softeners for producing soft cosmetic compositions that have a certain degree of hardness.

[0008] Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a soft cosmetic composition with a certain degree of hardness, comprising the step of producing an oil phase containing ceramide, glyceryl stearate, and a polyglyceryl-based softener. [Effects of the Invention]

[0009] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains ceramide together with a polyglyceryl softener and glyceryl stearate, and exhibits the effect of ensuring the long-term storage stability of ceramide. Specifically, it was confirmed that the ceramide does not gel or precipitate even when stored at room temperature or high temperature. Furthermore, it was confirmed that by additionally including myristyl myristate, it is possible to have a soft texture while maintaining high hardness. [Brief explanation of the drawing]

[0010] [Figure 1] These are photographs showing the appearance of the dosage form of the present invention with and without the polyglyceryl-based softener. [Figure 2] These are polarized light microscope images showing the presence or absence of a polyglyceryl-based softener in the dosage form of the present invention. [Figure 3] This graph shows the change in particle size depending on the presence or absence of a polyglyceryl-based softener in the dosage form of the present invention. [Figure 4] This is a DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimeter) measurement graph showing the presence or absence of a polyglyceryl-based softener in the dosage form of the present invention. [Figure 5] These are polarized light microscope images of different types of polyglyceryl-based softeners in the dosage form of the present invention. [Modes for carrying out the invention]

[0011] The present invention will be described in detail below.

[0012] The present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising ceramide, glyceryl stearate, and a polyglyceryl-based softener.

[0013] When ceramide is included with a polyglyceryl-based softener and glyceryl stearate, it was confirmed that gelation by ceramide does not occur even when combined with non-polar oils or silicone oils that hinder ceramide dissolution, and that the stability of ceramide is ensured even during long-term storage or storage at low temperatures. Furthermore, it was confirmed that the addition of myristyl myristate allows for a soft texture while maintaining high hardness.

[0014] In the present invention, the ceramide can be selected from the group consisting of ceramide NP, ceramide EOP, and ceramide AP, with ceramide NP being the most preferred.

[0015] In this invention, "ceramide" refers to a type of sphingolipid, a molecule composed of sphingosine and a fatty acid. Ceramide is abundant in cell membranes and is involved in various cellular signaling processes such as cell differentiation, growth, and death. Ceramide NP is a synthetic N-acylated sphingolipid in which saturated or unsaturated fatty acids are bound to phytosphingosine having a D-erythro structure. Ceramide EOP is an N-acylated sphingolipid containing phytosphingosine having a D-erythro structure bound to ω-hydroxybutyric acid esterified with saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. Ceramide AP is an N-acylated sphingolipid containing phytosphingosine having a D-erythro structure bound to α-hydroxy saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.

[0016] In the present invention, the amount of ceramide may be 0.1 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, and more preferably 0.2 to 0.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Within the scope of the present invention, in order to obtain a sufficient moisturizing effect, the ceramide content is preferably 0.02% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more. For good sensory quality, the ceramide content is preferably 1% by weight or less.

[0017] In the present invention, glyceryl stearate may be included, or glyceryl stearate may be included together with an anionic surfactant. Preferably, glyceryl stearate may be included together with potassium stearate or sodium stearate. More preferably, glyceryl stearate may be glyceryl stearate SE. Including glyceryl stearate SE, which is a mixture of glyceryl stearate and stearate (e.g., potassium stearate or sodium stearate), can improve the dissolving power of ceramide and allow for the creation of a stable composition from precipitation and separation.

[0018] In the present invention, the polyglyceryl-based softener can contain 6 or more stearic acid groups or isostearic acid groups. Preferably, it is polyglyceryl-n decastearate or polyglyceryl-n decaisostearate, and n is 5 or more. More preferably, the polyglyceryl-based softener may be polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate. Polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate does not have a direct ceramide-dissolving power, but while having an affinity for ceramide, the steric hindrance effect of the bulky polyglyceryl group can be expected. When used in combination with glyceryl stearate SE and ceramide, it was confirmed that it can prevent ceramide precipitation and realize a synergistic effect of long-term stability.

[0019] In the present invention, glyceryl stearate and the polyglyceryl-based softener may be included in a mass ratio of 1:1.5 to 1:3, 1:1.7 to 1:2.5, or 1:2 to 1:2.3. When included in the cosmetic composition at the corresponding mass ratio, the effects of the present invention can be achieved.

[0020] In the present invention, the cosmetic composition can additionally contain myristyl myristate. When myristyl myristate is added to the composition of the present invention, it has the effect of increasing viscosity and hardness. The increased viscosity and hardness are different from those formed by aliphatic alcohols or thickening stabilizers in general, showing a soft and delicate texture, and can create a texture suitable for a light moisturizing cream or a moisture cream.

[0021] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention preferably has a hardness of 18 to 60 dyne / cm 2 To achieve this, myristyl myristate can be included at 1 to 2% by weight based on the total weight of the entire cosmetic composition. The hardness can be measured with a commercialized rheometer such as the Rheotech Fudoh Rheo Meter. When using the Rheotech Fudoh Rheo Meter, it can be measured at 25°C under the conditions of adapter No. 9, 20Φ, descending mode, and descending speed of 2 cm / min.

[0022] The present invention also provides the use of ceramides, glyceryl stearate and polyglyceryl-based softeners for producing a soft cosmetic composition while having a hardness within a certain range. Preferably, myristyl myristate may be additionally included. The hardness within the "certain range" may be the hardness range described in the present invention.

[0023] The present invention also provides a method for producing a soft cosmetic composition while having a hardness within a certain range, which includes the step of producing an oil phase containing ceramides, glyceryl stearate and polyglyceryl-based softeners. Preferably, myristyl myristate may be additionally included. The hardness within the "certain range" may be the hardness range described in the present invention.

[0024] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can contain an aliphatic alcohol in an amount of less than 3% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Preferably, it is less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1.5% by weight, and most preferably 0.5 to 1.5% by weight. A cosmetic composition using an aliphatic alcohol in an amount exceeding 4% by weight may have a heavy feel in use.

[0025] In the present invention, the cosmetic composition has dosage forms such as facial lotions, body lotions, lotions, nutritional creams, moisture creams, creams such as eye creams, essences, cosmetic ointments, sprays, gels, packs, sunscreens, makeup bases, liquids, solids or spray-type foundations, and powders.

[0026] In the present invention, in addition to the above-mentioned components, the cosmetic composition may also include, to the extent that the effectiveness of the composition is not diminished, additional fatty substances, organic solvents, solvents, concentrates and gelling agents, softeners, antioxidants, suspending agents, stabilizers, foaming agents, fragrances, surfactants, water, ionic or nonionic emulsifiers, bulking agents, metal ion sequestering agents and chelating agents, preservatives, vitamins, blocking agents, wetting agents, essential oils, dyes, pigments, hydrophilic or lipophilic surfactants, lipid vesicles, or any other components commonly used in cosmetics, such as auxiliary agents and carriers commonly used in the field of cosmetology.

[0027] When the dosage form of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a paste, cream, or gel, animal oils, vegetable oils, waxes, paraffin, starch, tragacanth, cellulose derivatives, polyethylene glycol, silicone, bentonite, silica, talc, or zinc oxide can be used as the carrier component.

[0028] When the dosage form of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a solution or emulsion, a solvent or emulsifier is used as a carrier component, for example, water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, butanediol, glycerin fatty acid ester, PEG-8, polyethylene glycol, or sorbitan may be used.

[0029] Each of the aforementioned components contained in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be included in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention in a manner that does not exceed the maximum amount of use specified in the regulations related to the "use and licensing of cosmetics" prescribed by each national government.

[0030] The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used alone or by repeated application, or by application together with other cosmetic compositions other than those of the present invention. Furthermore, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may be used according to the usual method of use, and the number of applications can be changed depending on the user's skin condition or preference. [Examples]

[0031] The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the following examples. However, the following examples are for illustrative purposes only, and the content of the present invention is not limited to these examples.

[0032] The substances and reagents used in this example and comparative example were purchased from cosmetic raw material manufacturers and suppliers, and the stated content is based on weight percentage.

[0033] Experimental Example 1: Effect of the presence or absence of polyglyceryl-based softeners on ceramide emulsifier forms

[0034] [Table 1]

[0035] Comparative Example 1, Comparative Example 2, Example 1, and Example 2 were manufactured using the following methods with the compositions shown in Table 1 above.

[0036] Manufacturing method 1. Mix component 2 with a small amount of water to prepare the sample. 2. Mix components 1 and 3-6, and heat to 74-76°C to produce the aqueous phase. 3. Mix ingredients 7-12 and heat to 76-80°C to produce the oil phase. 4. Add the oil phase to the aqueous phase and mix with a homomixer. Add the sample to the mixture from 5.4 and mix with a homomixer. After the results of Method 5 have cooled to room temperature, degass them. The appearance of the manufactured dosage form is shown in Figure 1, the polarized light microscope image in Figure 2, the particle size change confirmation graph in Figure 3, and the DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimeter) measurement values ​​in Figure 4.

[0037] Figure 1 shows photographs of the appearance of the dosage form of the present invention with and without a polyglyceryl softener (25°C represents a sample stored at 25°C for 3 months, F / T (Freeze / Thawing) represents a sample stored frozen (-20°C) repeated thawing at room temperature 5 times, then stored at 25°C, and the sample taken at the same time as the 25°C sample, and the images of Comparative Example 1 and Example 1 on the right side of Figure 1 show the state when scooping the cream after storage at 25°C for 3 months).

[0038] Figure 2 shows polarized light microscope images of the dosage form of the present invention with and without the polyglyceryl softener (images of samples stored at 25°C for 3 months).

[0039] Figure 3 is a graph showing the change in particle size with and without a polyglyceryl softener in the dosage form of the present invention (25°C represents a sample stored at 25°C for 3 months, 50°C represents a sample stored at 50°C for 3 months, and F / T represents a sample that underwent freezing / thawing, where a frozen (-20°C) sample was taken out at room temperature and thawed five times).

[0040] Figure 4 shows the DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimeter) measurement graph for the dosage form of the present invention with and without the polyglyceryl softener (samples stored at 25°C for 3 months).

[0041] Figure 1 shows that in Comparative Example 1, gelation progresses considerably when hydrogenated polydecene (non-polar oil) or dimethicone (silicone oil), which are components that interfere with the dissolution of ceramide, are blended with ceramide. In Comparative Example 2, blending with glyceryl stearate SE suppresses gelation even when stored at room temperature for a long period of time, but when exposed to a low-temperature environment such as F / T, stability decreases and gelation progresses again. On the other hand, in Example 1 or Example 2, blending with polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate suppresses gelation sufficiently even when stored at room temperature for a long period of time or exposed to a low-temperature environment. In Figure 2, polarized light microscope images show that ceramide precipitation is sufficiently suppressed in Examples 1 and 2. In Figure 3, the particle size change graph shows that the particle size of Example 2 is more uniform and less affected by temperature than that of Comparative Example 2. Looking at the DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimeter) measurements for Comparative Example 2 and Example 2 in Figure 4, it was confirmed that the peak above 70°C disappeared, and the peak around 45°C was shifted to an even lower temperature. From these results, it was found that a stable dosage form can be achieved by including a polyglyceryl-based softener (Example 1) or a polyglyceryl-based softener and glyceryl stearate (Example 2) in a dosage form containing ceramide.

[0042] Experimental Example 2: Effect of Polyglyceryl-based Fabric Softener Type on Ceramide Emulsifier Forms

[0043] [Table 2]

[0044] Using the compositions shown in Table 2, Examples 3 and Comparative Examples 3-5 were prepared in the same manner as in Experimental Example 1. After storage at 25°C for 4 weeks, the precipitate of ceramide was observed using a polarizing microscope. The observed images are shown in Figure 5.

[0045] Figure 5 shows polarized microscope images of different types of polyglyceryl-based softeners in the dosage form of the present invention. Figure 5 shows that the fewer alkyl groups in the polyglyceryl-based softener, the less effective the suppression of ceramide precipitation becomes, and it was also found that polymerization must be above a certain level.

[0046] Experimental Example 3: Difference in hardness depending on the amount of myristyl myristate in ceramide emulsifier formulations

[0047] [Table 3]

[0048] Examples 4 to 6 were manufactured using the compositions shown in Table 3 and the following manufacturing method, and the hardness of the manufactured dosage forms was measured. Hardness was measured using a Rheotech Fudoh Rheo Meter, and the hardness values ​​measured under the following conditions are shown in Table 4.

[0049] Manufacturing method 1. Mix component 2 with a small amount of water to prepare the sample. 2. Mix components 1 and 3-6, and heat to 74-76°C to produce the aqueous phase. 3. Mix ingredients 7-13 and heat to 76-80°C to produce the oil phase. 4. Add the oil phase to the aqueous phase and mix with a homomixer. Add the sample to the mixture from 5.4 and mix with a homomixer. After the results of Method 5 have cooled to room temperature, degass them. Hardness measurement conditions: Rheotech Fudoh Rheo Meter, dedicated adapter #9, 20Φ, down mode, descent speed 2cm / min, depth 25mm, measured at 25℃.

[0050] [Table 4]

[0051] In order to increase the hardness of cosmetic compositions, increasing the content of aliphatic alcohols, as in conventional methods, results in a heavy feel during use. In the composition according to the present invention, which ensures the stability of ceramides, it has been confirmed that hardness can be increased without degrading the feel of use by further including myristyl myristate instead of increasing the content of aliphatic alcohols (Tables 3 and 4).

[0052] These results suggest that the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be applied to containers (jar-type) that can only be used if the dosage form satisfies a certain level of hardness, thereby allowing the hardness to be adjusted appropriately as needed without affecting the feel of use.

[0053] Experimental Example 4: Soft texture effect of ceramide emulsifier with and without polyglyceryl-based softener.

[0054] [Table 5]

[0055] Using the compositions shown in Table 5, Example 3 and Comparative Example 6 were manufactured in the same manner as in Experimental Example 3. The hardness and satisfaction with the feel were then evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 6. As can be seen in Table 6, there was almost no difference in hardness with or without the polyglyceryl softener (the measurement conditions were the same as in Experimental Example 3), but it was confirmed that the soft, close feel was further increased in terms of sensory quality (softness satisfaction).

[0056] [Table 6]

[0057] Therefore, it was confirmed that the cosmetic composition of the present invention, including ceramide, glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl softener, and additionally myristyl myristate, achieved high dosage form stability and high softness satisfaction.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition containing ceramide, glyceryl stearate, and a polyglyceryl-based softener.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the ceramide is selected from the group consisting of ceramide NP, ceramide EOP, and ceramide AP.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the ceramide is present in an amount of 0.1 to 1% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the glyceryl stearate is contained together with potassium stearate or sodium stearate.

5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyglyceryl-based softener is polyglyceryl-n deca stearate or polyglyceryl-n deca isostearate, and n is 5 or more.

6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the glyceryl stearate and the polyglyceryl-based softener are present in a mass ratio of 1:1.5 to 1:

3.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising myristyl myristate.

8. The aforementioned cosmetic composition was measured using a 20Φ pin from adapter number 9 of a rheometer under the conditions of a descent speed of 2 cm / min and a depth of 25 mm, yielding a concentration of 18 to 60 dyne / cm³ at 25°C. 2 The cosmetic composition according to claim 6, having the hardness of [a certain degree].

9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is in the form of a lotion, cream, or gel.