Pulse starch-based film-forming composition for use in cosmetics - Patents.com

Abstract

The present invention relates to novel film-forming compositions that have good mechanical strength during application and can be easily washed off or removed with water. The present invention also relates to cosmetic care or makeup compositions comprising the film-forming compositions, and to their non-therapeutic uses.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a film-forming composition, a cosmetic care or make-up composition containing it, a cosmetic method of make-up and care, and uses in various cosmetic products. [Background technology]

[0002] Film formers are known in cosmetics because they are capable of producing a continuous film on the skin, hair, or nails.

[0003] Typically, hair cosmetic compositions contain film-forming polymers to produce a coating film on the hair, these properties being used in particular to strengthen the hairstyle.

[0004] When applied to the skin, film formers prevent water from evaporating, thus reducing water loss. These agents provide deep and lasting hydration to the skin. They can also help protect the skin, for example by having a barrier effect against dirt, including dirt caused by airborne microparticles, and against UV rays. In makeup, and typically in mascara, film formers significantly improve eyelash curl and lengthen eyelashes. In sunscreens, film formers can form films that block UV rays or reduce the dose that reaches the skin.

[0005] Naturally derived polymers have also been used in cosmetics, where their strong biomechanical and film-forming properties allow them to act as a second protective skin. Naturally derived polymers include those extracted or obtained from renewable natural resources, i.e. plants, such as starch and its derivatives, cellulose and its derivatives, gums derived from plant seeds or exudates, algae, such as xanthan gum, carrageenan, and also gums extracted from the fermentation of microorganisms, such as fungi and bacteria.

[0006] A cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of ingredients that imparts elasticity to a cosmetic mask-type product applied to the surface of the skin that is naturally stretched by deformation is described in the document WO 2013 / 167835. Typically, the cosmetic composition contains a mixture suitable for forming an elastic film consisting of at least one starch hydrolysate, at least one polyol, polyvinyl alcohol, at least one polymer selected from vinylpyrrolidone polymers and copolymers, latex, and optionally water.

[0007] These film formers or compositions also contain significant amounts of synthetic polymers, making them difficult to rinse or remove, and it is difficult to obtain a composition that has good mechanical retention during application.

[0008] Thus, there is a need to develop naturally derived cosmetic film-forming compositions that have a balance between good mechanical retention during application and good removal after application, e.g., by washing. Summary of the Invention

[0009] The Applicant's achievement is the development of new film-forming compositions for use in naturally derived cosmetics that provide good mechanical retention during application and good removal by simple rinsing or washing.

[0010] These film-forming compositions also provide keratinous materials with excellent properties in terms of improving the skin color, making the skin color uniform, harmonizing the skin color, reducing skin greasiness, smoothing the skin, protecting the sensitive areas of the hair fiber, smoothing the cuticle of the hair fiber, covering the hair fiber, curling and lengthening the eyelashes, and resistance to mechanical shocks. Another effect is a barrier effect that limits or prevents the migration of external aggressors such as airborne microscopic soiling substances, ultraviolet light, oxidizing agents, etc., into the dermis or keratinous materials.

[0011] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition for protection, care or make-up comprising a film-forming composition of natural origin, and to a method for making up or caring for keratinous materials comprising applying to the keratinous materials at least one cosmetic composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0012] Thus, a first object of the present invention relates to a film-forming composition comprising: 1% to 20% by weight of at least one hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch; 1% to 20% by weight of at least one polyol; 1% to 10% by weight of at least one carrageenan; where percentage (%) is expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the film-forming composition.

[0013] Generally speaking, a film-forming composition is understood to mean a composition comprising at least one polymer (film former), which is capable of forming a substantially continuous film in the presence of a solvent, in particular water. For the purposes of the present invention, film-forming compositions are in particular film-forming compositions of natural origin based on starch, in the sense that starch is used as the main film former.

[0014] By "legume" is meant any plant belonging to the families of the subfamily Celastrus (cesalpiniaceae), Mimosa, or Fabaceae, in particular any plant belonging to the family Fabaceae, such as, for example, pea, green bean, broad bean, horse bean, lentil, or lupine.

[0015] According to a preferred embodiment, the legume starch is pea starch.

[0016] The pulse starch according to the invention is obtained from starch containing 25% to 45% by weight, preferably 30% to 45% by weight, preferably 35% to 40% by weight, of amylose, the percentage being expressed by dry weight relative to the dry weight of the pulse starch and determined before any subsequent treatment, such as hydrolysis and / or alkylation of the starch.

[0017] The pulse starch according to the invention is a modified starch: it is a hydrolyzed and alkylated starch, preferably a hydroxypropyl starch.

[0018] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the starch according to the invention is a hydrolyzed and hydroxypropylated legume starch.

[0019] "Hydroxypropylated starch" is understood for the purposes of the present invention to mean a starch substituted with hydroxypropyl groups by any technique known to the person skilled in the art, for example by etherification reaction with propylene oxide, and in particular to exhibit a hydroxypropyl group content of 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 1-10% by weight, more preferably 5-9% by weight and in particular close to 7% by weight, by dry weight relative to the dry weight of the hydroxypropylated starch. In particular, this content is determined according to proton nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy, in particular according to the EN ISO 11543:2002F standard.

[0020] "Hydrolyzed starch" is understood for the purposes of the present invention to mean starch that has been subjected to a hydrolytic operation, i.e. an operation to reduce its average molecular weight. The methods for obtaining such starches are known to those skilled in the art, for example by chemical treatments such as oxidation and acid treatment, or by enzymatic treatment. The skilled artisan can of course adjust the level of fluidization of the starch based on the viscosity desired for the film-forming composition.

[0021] The hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch according to the invention may also have one or more other physical and / or chemical modifications, so long as they do not interfere with the desired properties of the starch in the film-forming composition according to the invention. An example of a chemical modification is cross-linking.

[0022] According to a particular embodiment, the hydrolyzed and alkylated starch of the film-forming composition according to the invention may be further modified, for example physically treated, in particular selected from known gelatinization, pregelatinization, extrusion, spraying or drying operations, microwave or ultrasonic processing, plasticization or granulation operations.

[0023] In particular, the starch after alkylation and hydrolysis is preferably non-granular. So that the film-forming composition exhibits very good film-forming properties, it is advantageously made soluble in water by any known technique.

[0024] Thus, according to an advantageous embodiment, the starch according to the invention is characterized in that it has been solubilized. It can be solubilized by any technique known to the skilled artisan, including by thermal and / or mechanical treatment, for example by heating in an aqueous medium, optionally with a subsequent drying step, when a powdered product is preferred. The operation of solubilizing the starch can be carried out before adding the starch to the film-forming composition, or after adding it to the film-forming composition, in a non-separate manner, before or after the alkylation and / or hydrolysis of the starch, for example by heat processing the film-forming composition during its implementation.

[0025] The preferred average molecular weight of the hydrolyzed and alkylated starch according to the present invention is 1-2,000 kDa, preferably 10-1,000 kDa, more preferably 20-1,000 kDa, even more preferably 100-1,000 kDa. For example, the molecular weight range may be 200-800 kDa, 200-500 kDa, 200-400 kDa, or 200-300 kDa. The average molecular weight is determined by HPSEC-MALLS (High Performance Size Exclusion Chromatography in Series with Multi-Angle Laser Light Scattering Detection).

[0026] A hydrolyzed hydroxypropyl starch suitable for the film-forming composition according to the invention is commercially available and is offered by the applicant under the trade name Beauty by Roquette® ST720.

[0027] The film-forming composition comprises from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight, of hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch, the weight percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of the film-forming composition.

[0028] The film-forming composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more polyols. Polyols are used as plasticizers in the film-forming composition.

[0029] Any polyol known to those skilled in the art can be used in the film-forming compositions according to the present invention.

[0030] According to a particular embodiment, the polyol is selected from the group consisting of maltitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, isosorbide, glycerol or glycerin, glucose, sucrose, polydextrose, hydrogenated glucose syrup, dextrin, maltodextrin, glucose syrup, and mixtures thereof. The polyol is preferably selected from glycerol and sorbitol.

[0031] The film-forming composition comprises from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight, of polyol, where the weight percentages are expressed relative to the total weight of the film-forming composition.

[0032] The film-forming composition according to the present invention also comprises at least one carrageenan, which is used as a thickening agent in the film-forming composition.

[0033] According to a preferred embodiment, the carrageenan is selected from carrageenan iota, carrageenan lambda, carrageenan kappa, and mixtures thereof.

[0034] The carrageenan is present in the film-forming composition in an amount of from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, the weight percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of the film-forming composition.

[0035] According to certain embodiments, the film-forming composition may further comprise a buffering agent selected from calcium or potassium salts, such as calcium chloride, potassium chloride, monobasic potassium phosphate, and dibasic calcium phosphate.

[0036] According to a particular embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention is an aqueous composition, the dry matter content of which is between 1 and 50% by weight, preferably between 2 and 40% by weight and more preferably between 5 and 25% by weight.

[0037] According to certain embodiments, the film-forming composition comprises: other film-forming agents other than the hydrolyzed and alkylated starch used according to the invention, for example naturally occurring polymers such as hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC), hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC), or synthetic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol (PVA); and / or It may further comprise plasticizers other than the polyols according to the invention, such as polyethylene glycol, triethyl citrate, polysorbates, or waxes such as carnauba wax, or hydrogenated castor oil.

[0038] However, for ease of implementation, it is preferred to minimize the amount of raw materials used, so that the hydrolyzed and alkylated starch and polyol predominately comprise most, and preferably all, of the film former and plasticizer, respectively, in the film-forming composition according to the invention.

[0039] Advantageously, the amounts of the various compounds of the film-forming composition according to the invention can also be expressed as a function of the total dry matter of said film-forming composition. Indeed, the ratio of film-forming agent to plasticizer determines in particular the plasticity and therefore the quality of the film formed.

[0040] Thus, the film-forming composition according to the present invention comprises: 20-60% by weight, preferably 30%-50% by weight, of at least one hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch; 20 to 60% by weight, preferably 30 to 50% by weight, of at least one polyol; and 5 to 25% by weight, preferably 10 to 20% by weight, of at least one carrageenan. Percentages are expressed by dry weight relative to the total dry weight of the film-forming composition.

[0041] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrolyzed alkylated starch, the polyol and the carrageenan together represent from 20% to 100% by weight, by dry weight, relative to the total dry weight of the film-forming composition, preferably from 30% to 99% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 99% by weight, even more preferably from 95% to 99% by weight, relative to the total dry weight of the film-forming composition.

[0042] According to certain embodiments, the film-forming composition comprises: 20-60% by weight, preferably 30%-50% by weight, of one hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch; 20 to 60% by weight, preferably 30 to 50% by weight, of at least one polyol; 5 to 25% by weight, preferably 10% to 20% by weight, of one carrageenan; Optionally, 0.01 to 0.5 wt. % of a buffer selected from calcium or potassium salts, preferably selected from calcium chloride, potassium chloride, and monobasic potassium phosphate; Optionally, 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0 to 3% by weight, especially 0 to 1% by weight, of another component. The percentages are expressed by dry weight relative to the total dry weight of the composition, the sum of which is 100% by weight.

[0043] The film-forming compositions of the present invention may actually contain other ingredients, so long as they do not interfere with the desired properties of the film-forming composition. These other ingredients may be, for example, surfactants, opacifying fillers, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, sweeteners, flavorings, dyes, optical brighteners, or even lubricants.

[0044] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the film-forming composition according to the invention as described above.

[0045] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic use of a film-forming composition according to the invention for imparting to keratinous materials at least one property selected from improvement of skin colour, even skin colour, homogenous skin colour, reduction of skin shininess, a barrier effect, smoothing of the skin, protection of sensitive areas of the hair fibre, smoothing of the hair fibre cuticle, coverage of the hair fibre, curling and lengthening of eyelashes, and resistance to mechanical shocks.

[0046] In fact, due to its properties, the film-forming composition of the present invention is able to even out the skin tone, make it more even and homogeneous, and reduce shine.The film-forming properties of the composition according to the present invention, as described above, when the composition according to the present invention is applied to a keratinous material, preferably the skin of the face or body, smooth the skin, hide imperfections, make it more even, homogeneous, and reduce shine.

[0047] Film-forming compositions within the meaning of the present invention protect sensitive areas of the hair fiber, smooth the cuticle of the hair fiber and also coat the hair fiber, these properties being obtained by forming a film on the surface of the hair fiber.

[0048] Film-forming compositions within the meaning of the present invention are capable of curling and lengthening keratin fibres, preferably eyelashes.

[0049] The film-forming composition within the meaning of the present invention provides a barrier effect to keratinous materials. In fact, the film-forming composition according to the invention protects keratinous materials from external aggressions by airborne microscopic soiling substances, UV rays, etc., which oxidize them, thereby limiting or preventing their migration to the dermis or the core of the hair fiber. Thus, "barrier effect" is understood to mean the protection of keratinous materials against external aggressions within the meaning of the present invention.

[0050] The film-forming composition is defined as above. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition for making up, caring for or protecting keratinous materials, comprising a film-forming composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch, at least one polyol and at least one carrageenan.

[0051] The film-forming composition comprising hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch, a polyol and carrageenan is defined above.

[0052] The cosmetic composition may further comprise a buffering agent as defined above.

[0053] According to one embodiment, the film-forming composition present in the cosmetic composition for making up, caring for or protecting keratinous materials comprises: 1% to 20% by weight of at least one hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch, preferably at least one hydrolyzed and hydroxypropylated pea starch; 1% to 20% by weight of at least one polyol, preferably chosen from sorbitol and glycerol; 1% to 10% by weight of at least one carrageenan; where percentages are expressed by weight based on the total weight of the film-forming composition.

[0054] A physiologically acceptable medium is preferably cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable. "Physiologically acceptable medium" or "cosmetically acceptable" or "dermatologically acceptable" is understood for the purposes of the present invention to mean that it does not exhibit adverse side effects, in particular does not cause unacceptable redness, inflammation, heat, tightness or stinging to the user of the cosmetic product. The medium is therefore compatible with human keratinous materials.

[0055] Typically, keratinous materials are the skin, mucous membranes, the scalp or hair, the hair system, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, and the nails.

[0056] According to one embodiment, a film-forming composition within the meaning of the present invention provides a cosmetic makeup or care composition with at least one property selected from the uniformity, evenness, homogeneity of skin color, or reduction of skin shine. The film-forming properties of the composition allow the composition to be applied to keratinous materials, preferably the face or body, to smooth the skin, hide imperfections, provide a more uniform, even and homogeneous skin color, and reduce shine.

[0057] According to another embodiment, a film-forming composition within the meaning of the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for makeup or care with the properties of protecting sensitive areas of the hair fiber, smoothing the cuticle of the hair fiber and coating the hair fiber, these properties being obtained by forming a film on the surface of the hair fiber.

[0058] According to another embodiment, a film-forming composition within the meaning of the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for make-up or care with properties for curling and lengthening keratin fibres, preferably eyelashes.

[0059] According to another embodiment, the film-forming composition within the meaning of the present invention provides a barrier effect to keratinous materials, which is understood to mean that the film-forming composition protects keratinous materials by preventing or limiting the migration of external agents of attack, such as atmospheric microsoiling substances, atmospheric oxidizing substances or compounds, or sunlight, such as ultraviolet radiation, to the dermis or core of the hair fiber.

[0060] According to another embodiment, a film-forming composition within the meaning of the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for makeup or care with the property of resistance to mechanical impacts by forming a film on the surface of keratinous materials, typically on the surface of the nails.

[0061] The present invention therefore also relates to the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition for making up, protecting or caring for keratinous materials, to provide said materials with at least one property selected from improving the skin colour, achieving an even skin colour, a homogenous skin tone, reducing skin shininess, a barrier effect, smoothing the skin, protecting sensitive areas of the hair fibre, smoothing the cuticle of the hair fibre, covering the hair fibre, curling and lengthening the eyelashes, and resistance to mechanical shocks, as defined above.

[0062] The cosmetic composition for make-up, protection or care according to the invention can be formed into all formulations used in the cosmetic field, such as emulsions (in particular creams or milks), gels, creams, solutions, lotions or serum dispersions, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid viscosity obtained by dispersing a lipid phase in an aqueous phase (oil-in-water emulsion, O / W) or vice versa (water-in-oil emulsion, W / O), suspensions, lotions, microemulsions, microcapsules, vesicle microparticles or dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type, polishes, body oils, masks, creams, ointments and concentrated solutions, which are used for conventional topical application. These formulations are obtained according to the conventional methods known to those skilled in the art. These formulations further contain typical cosmetically acceptable excipients and carriers.

[0063] For example, the physiologically acceptable medium may comprise a lipid phase and / or an aqueous phase.

[0064] lipid phase

[0065] The lipid phase may contain at least one oil.

[0066] For the purposes of the present invention, "oil" is understood to mean a compound which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and which, when added to water at 25°C in an amount of at least 1% by weight, is either completely insoluble in water or soluble to the extent of less than 10% by weight of the weight of the oil added to the water.

[0067] The liquid lipid phase advantageously comprises one or more non-volatile oils exhibiting an emollient action on the skin, such as cetearyl isononaate, isotridecyl isononaate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, triacetin, tricaprin, caprylic / capric triglyceride, mixtures of cococaprate and caprylate, benzoates of C12 to C15 alcohols, butyric acid, glyceryl stearate ... Examples of the fatty acid include glycol esters such as ethylene glycol cocoate, fatty esters such as glyceryl triisostearate and tocopherol acetate, higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and isostearic acid, higher aliphatic alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, vegetable oils such as avocado oil, camellia oil, hazelnut oil, camellia oil, cashew nut oil, argan oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, germ oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, and olive oil, and mixtures thereof, and vegetable butters such as shea butter and camellia butter.

[0068] These oils may also be of the hydrocarbon or silicone type, such as paraffin oil, squalene, petroleum jelly, dimethyl siloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] The liquid lipid phase may also comprise a volatile oil.Volatile oil means an oil that can evaporate from the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.Volatile oil can be selected from silicone oil or short chain fatty acid triglyceride, for example, to reduce greasy feeling.

[0070] The lipid phase of the composition according to the invention may advantageously further comprise at least one structuring agent of the lipid phase, such as a lipophilic gelling agent, a wax and / or a pasty compound.

[0071] "Wax" means a lipid substance that can be reversibly changed between liquid and solid states, has a melting point above 30°C and generally below 90°C, which is liquid under the conditions of preparation of the composition and has an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. The waxes used according to the invention may consist of polar or non-polar waxes, or a mixture of the two. "Non-polar" means waxes that contain only carbon, hydrogen and / or phosphorus atoms, in particular hydrocarbons.

[0072] The polar waxes can be chosen from animal waxes, vegetable waxes, and synthetic or silicone waxes, bearing polar groups such as esters. Thus, mention may be made of carnauba wax, candelilla wax, beeswax (Cera alba), Chinese insect wax (Pterygosperma), Japan wax, Japan wax, montan wax, triesters of C8-C20 acids and glycerin, such as glyceryl tribehenate, acetylated glycol stearates, available from VEVY under the trade name CETACENE, and mixtures thereof. These waxes can be used in a form pre-dispersed in oil, as in the case of the mixture of candelilla wax and jojoba seed oil, among others.

[0073] "Pasty compound" is understood to mean a lipophilic lipid substance which, like wax, can change reversibly between liquid and solid states and which, in the solid state, has an anisotropic crystalline structure, but which differs from wax in that at a temperature of 23°C, it has liquid and solid parts.

[0074] aqueous phase

[0075] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise an aqueous phase comprising water and, optionally, one or more water-miscible organic solvents and / or one or more rheological agents.

[0076] The rheological agents include in particular agents for thickening the aqueous phase, gelling agents or suspending agents, which may be, for example, plant-derived gums such as gum arabic, konjac gum, guar gum or derivatives thereof; gums extracted from algae such as alginates; gums obtained from microbial fermentation such as xanthan, mannan, scleroglucan or derivatives thereof, cellulose and its derivatives such as carboxymethylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose; starch and its derivatives, in particular acetylated, carboxymethylated, octenylsuccinate or hydroxypropylated modified starches and their derivatives; synthetic polymers such as polyacrylic acid or carbomer, etc.

[0077] Surfactants

[0078] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsifiers.

[0079] The oil-in-water (O / W) emulsifiers may be selected in particular from optionally polyethoxylated sorbitan esters, glycerol fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters or polyesters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyether-modified polysiloxanes, polyethylene glycol fatty alcohol ethers, alkyl polyglycosides and hydrogenated lecithins, but are not limited thereto.

[0080] The water-in-oil (W / O) emulsifier may be selected from non-ethoxylated polyol fatty acid esters, in particular from non-ethoxylated fatty acid esters of glycerol, polyglycerol, sorbitol, sorbitan, in particular isosorbide, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, maltitol, sucrose, glucose, polydextrose, hydrogenated glucose syrup, dextrins and anhydrohexitols such as hydrolyzed starch.

[0081] The W / O emulsifiers can be selected from non-ethoxylated polyol fatty acid esters obtained from fatty acids or by transesterification of oils or mixtures of oils. The fatty acids used have from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. These acids can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and can have one or more lateral hydroxyl functions. The oils can be saturated or unsaturated, can be liquid or solid at room temperature, can optionally have hydroxyl functions and can have an iodine value of preferably from 1 to 145, in particular from 5 to 105.

[0082] The W / O emulsifier may advantageously be chosen from emulsifying systems consisting of cyclodextrins and natural water-in-oil emulsifiers, such as the emulsifying system sold by Roquette Freres under the name Beauty by Roquette® DS146.

[0083] dye

[0084] The composition according to the invention may further comprise fillers having the effect of colouring the composition and / or opacifying it and / or colouring the lips, such as dyes selected from at least one water-soluble or liposoluble dye, pigments, pearling agents, lakes (water-soluble dyes adsorbed on an inert mineral carrier) and mixtures thereof. These dyes may be optionally surface-treated with hydrophobic agents such as silanes, silicones, fatty acid soaps, phosphates of C9-C15 fluoroalcohols, acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, mixed copolymers of phosphates of C9-C15 fluoroalcohols / silicon, lecithin, carnauba wax, polyethylene, chitosan and amino acids, optionally acylated, such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminium acyl glutamate. The pigments may be inorganic or organic, natural or synthetic. Examples of pigments include, but are not limited to, in particular, oxides of iron, titanium or zinc, as well as composite pigments and goniochromatic, pearlescent, interference, photochromic or thermochromic pigments.

[0085] Filler

[0086] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further contain at least one filler.This term is intended to mean any shape (particularly spherical or lamellar), inorganic or organic particles, which are insoluble in the composition.Examples of fillers are talc, mica, silica, kaolin, boron nitride, starch, starch modified with octenylsuccinic anhydride, polyamide, silicone resin, silicone elastomer powder, and acrylic polymer powder, especially powder of poly(methyl methacrylate) or powder of styrene acrylate copolymer (Sunsphere Powders manufactured by Dow).

[0087] Cosmetic application

[0088] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic care composition is in the form of a mask.The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic care composition of mask type, comprising a film-forming composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch, at least one polyol and at least one carrageenan.

[0089] According to the concept known to the person skilled in the art, a mask type composition is understood to mean a cosmetic composition formulated to be applied in a layer of some thickness to a keratinous material, preferably to the skin. The mask type composition is left on the keratinous material for a certain time, for example from a few minutes to a few tens of minutes. The mask type cosmetic composition may be left on the keratinous material overnight for a sustained effect. At the end of the given time, the mask composition can be rinsed off with water or removed.

[0090] The applicant's achievement is that a mask-type cosmetic composition has been developed that exhibits excellent mechanical properties, including good mechanical retention, by using a film-forming composition according to the present invention, and that can be quickly and easily removed by washing with water after application.

[0091] According to one embodiment, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition for making up, protecting or caring for keratinous materials, comprising a film-forming composition and at least one cosmetic active ingredient, the film-forming composition comprising at least one hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch, at least one polyol and at least one carrageenan.

[0092] Cosmetic active ingredient or cosmetic active substance is understood to mean any ingredient or substance which has anti-ageing activity, hydrating activity, a firming effect, anti-pigmentation activity, skin brightening activity, anti-shininess effect, a smoothing effect, microcirculation stimulating activity, seboregulator activity, epidermal desquamating activity, skin cleansing or degreasing and which is intended to have a firming effect.

[0093] Thus, in addition to the film-forming composition described above, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients. In particular, the additional active ingredients may be selected from the group consisting of vitamins, antioxidants, anti-aging agents, moisturizing agents, anti-staining agents, keratolytic agents, astringents, anti-inflammatory agents, whitening agents, and agents that promote microcirculation, seboregulators, desquamating agents or agents with a tightening effect.

[0094] Preferably, in addition to the film-forming composition described above, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise at least one active ingredient chosen from among anti-aging agents, desquamating agents, sevoregulators, agents having a tightening effect, and mixtures thereof, such as, for example, gluconolactone or hydroxypropylcyclodextrin.

[0095] Any technique may be used by one of ordinary skill in the art to incorporate the cosmetically active ingredient into the film-forming composition.

[0096] Typically, in the case of a mask-type cosmetic composition, active ingredients can be incorporated into the film-forming composition when the mask-type cosmetic composition is applied to keratinous materials, preferably skin and hair, to obtain a desired cosmetic effect.

[0097] Gluconolactone is an active ingredient known for its sevoregulatory, anti-aging, and epidermal desquamating or "peeling" properties.

[0098] Typically, gluconolactone can be incorporated into the film-forming composition to impart seroregulatory, anti-aging, and desquamating properties to the resulting cosmetic composition.

[0099] Typically, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin may be incorporated into the film-forming composition to impart firming and anti-wrinkle properties to the resulting cosmetic composition.

[0100] The present invention also relates to a method for obtaining a mask-type cosmetic film from a film-forming composition, the method comprising the steps of: providing a film-forming composition; heating the composition at a temperature of 40 to 90, preferably 70 to 80°C; The method is characterized by including a step of drying at a temperature of 20 to 50°C and a relative humidity of 10 to 50%.

[0101] The film-forming composition provided is as described above.

[0102] The present invention also relates to a method for making up, caring for or protecting keratinous materials, comprising applying to said keratinous materials at least one cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0103] The present invention also relates to a method for making up, caring for or protecting keratinous materials, comprising applying to said keratinous materials at least one film-forming composition according to the invention.

[0104] The present invention also relates to the use of a film-forming composition according to the invention for forming an elastic film.

[0105] The non-therapeutic uses of the cosmetic composition according to the invention include all body and skin care products, such as masks, including products for improving the appearance of the skin.Non-therapeutic uses according to the invention also include makeup, such as nail polish, mascara, lipstick, or hair products, such as shampoos, conditioners, care products, masks, repairing and / or protective hair oils.Advantageously, the film-forming composition according to the invention can be incorporated into all body and skin care products, as well as all of the above-mentioned makeup products.

[0106] Non-therapeutic uses of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention also include the protection of all skin with a barrier effect against sunlight, especially UV rays, or as a second skin.

[0107] The present invention is also described in the following examples, which are illustrative in nature and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. EXAMPLES

[0108] Three film-forming compositions according to the present invention are prepared according to the compositions set forth in Tables 1-3.

[0109] [Table 1]

[0110] Table 1 corresponds to film-forming composition A.

[0111] [Table 2]

[0112] Table 2 corresponds to film-forming composition B.

[0113] [Table 3]

[0114] Table 3 corresponds to film-forming composition C.

[0115] The protocol for preparing compositions A, B, and C is as follows:

[0116] Heat the water bath to a temperature of 75°C.

[0117] Add all components one by one in the numerical order of Tables 1 to 3, waiting for each component to completely dissolve before adding the next component.

[0118] The temperature of the solution obtained in the previous step is adjusted to a temperature of 72°C.

[0119] Example 2 Film-forming compositions A, B, and C are used to prepare films for application to the skin. To do this, for each film-forming composition, the homogeneous solution obtained in Example 1 is poured onto a suitable flat glass support, and then the solution is allowed to gel for a few minutes. It is then dried in an oven at 40° C. and under a relative humidity of 30% for at least 24 hours. At the end of this protocol, a film is obtained that has sufficient mechanical strength to be applied to the skin and sufficient solubility in water to dissolve by washing with water.

[0120] Example 3 An anti-aging care mask formed with a film-forming composition according to the present invention was prepared according to the composition in Table 4.

[0121] [Table 4]

[0122] To prepare the mask, gluconolactone is completely dissolved in the required amount of water under stirring at 45° C. Glycerin, lambda carrageenan, and hydrolyzed hydroxypropyl pea starch are then added in sequence, waiting between each addition at 45° C. until completely dissolved. Next, calcium chloride is added by heating to 80° C. and the mixture is stirred until completely dissolved.

[0123] The previously prepared mask composition is then poured onto a flat glass support to a thickness of about 3 mm, which is then dried in an oven at 40° C. and 30% relative humidity for at least 24 hours.

[0124] This gives a film with good mechanical strength. It is applied to the skin for at least overnight. There is a tightening effect on the skin. After washing the skin with water and removing the mask, the skin becomes more flexible and appears firmer.

Claims

1. In a physiologically acceptable medium, 30% to 50% by weight of at least one hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch; 30% to 50% by weight of at least one polyol; 10% to 20% by weight of at least one carrageenan; 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of a buffer selected from calcium salts; wherein the percentages are expressed as dry weight relative to total dry weight; A cosmetic composition for making up, protecting or caring for keratinous materials.

2. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said legume starch is a hydrolyzed and hydroxypropylated starch.

3. 3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the content of hydroxypropyl groups is between 0.1 and 20% by dry weight relative to the dry weight of the hydroxypropyl starch.

4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said at least one legume starch is a pea starch.

5. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said at least one polyol is selected from the group consisting of sorbitol, glycerol and mixtures thereof.

6. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that said at least one carrageenan is chosen from iota carrageenan, lambda carrageenan, kappa carrageenan, and mixtures thereof.

7. A process of making up, protecting or caring for keratinous materials comprising applying to said keratinous materials a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6.

8. 7. Non-therapeutic use of the cosmetic composition according to claims 1 to 6 for imparting to keratinous materials at least one property selected from improvement of skin colour, even skin colour, homogenous skin tone, reduction of skin shininess, a barrier effect, smoothing of the skin, protection of sensitive areas of the hair fibre, smoothing of the cuticle of the hair fibre, covering of the hair fibre, curling and lengthening of eyelashes, and resistance to mechanical shocks.

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