Solid oil-based cleansing cosmetic
The solid oily cleansing cosmetic formulation, comprising specific fatty acid ester waxes, liquid oils, and nonionic surfactants, effectively addresses the challenges of skin affinity and stability across a wide temperature range, while ensuring excellent makeup dirt removal.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2020134223
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2020-08-06
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-24
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-08-06
AI Technical Summary
Conventional solid oil-based cleansing cosmetics face challenges in maintaining skin affinity at low temperatures and stability across a wide temperature range, while also effectively removing makeup dirt.
A solid oily cleansing cosmetic formulation containing 7-20% by mass of stearyl stearate and/or pentaerythritol tetrabehenate, 50-88% by mass of a liquid oil, and 5-30% by mass of a nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of 5 to 15, which provides shape retention, skin compatibility, and stability.
The cosmetic achieves excellent makeup dirt removal, maintains good skin affinity even at low temperatures, and ensures stability across a wide temperature range, addressing the limitations of conventional formulations.
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to a solid oily cleansing cosmetic, and more particularly to a solid oily cleansing cosmetic that is excellent in removing makeup dirt, has good skin affinity even when used at low temperatures, and has good stability in a wide temperature range.
Background Art
[0002] In recent years, makeup cosmetics with excellent water and oil resistance have been developed, and the durability of makeup has been significantly improved. On the other hand, as cleansing agents for removing cosmetics and dirt on the skin, there are aqueous cleansing cosmetics, emulsified cleansing cosmetics, oily cleansing cosmetics, etc. Among them, oily cleansing cosmetics that have good compatibility with makeup cosmetics and are excellent in dirt removal ability are widely used because they can remove strong makeup films. Among oily cleansing cosmetics, liquid oily cleansing cosmetics based on liquid oil are known to have a high cleansing effect, but they have problems such as low viscosity, dripping during use, and difficulty in massaging when making them compatible with makeup cosmetics. Therefore, solid oily cleansing cosmetics at room temperature have been proposed for the purpose of preventing dripping during use and improving usability.
[0003] For example, Patent Document 1 discloses a solid oily cleansing cosmetic that combines a hydrocarbon oil with a high melting point, a liquid oil containing an ester oil as an essential component, and a nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of 5 to 13. This cosmetic is described as having good compatibility with makeup cosmetics, excellent dirt removal, and excellent usability such as a refreshing feeling after washing. Also, Patent Document 2 discloses a solid cleansing agent that combines a liquid vegetable oil, a solid oil and fat with a melting point of 60 to 80°C, a liquid nonionic surfactant with a low HLB value, and a liquid or solid nonionic surfactant with a high HLB value. This cleansing agent is described as having good solubility near body temperature, being easy to adhere to the skin, and excellent in dirt removal.
[0004] In order to improve the skin affinity of solid oil-based cleansing cosmetics, it is important that the formulation is soft during application and can be spread evenly with a light force. However, conventional solid oil-based cleansing cosmetics become hard at low temperatures such as in winter, so a strong force is required to spread them on the skin, and there are problems with skin affinity. On the other hand, when improving skin affinity at low temperatures, the formulation may become too soft when heated to a high temperature, resulting in a decrease in stability such as separation and oil floating. Due to these backgrounds, there has been no solid oil-based cleansing cosmetic that is excellent in removing makeup dirt, has good skin affinity because it can be spread evenly on the skin with a light force even when used at low temperatures, and has good stability in a wide temperature range.
Prior Art Documents
Patent Documents
[0005]
Patent Document 1
Patent Document 2
Summary of the Invention
Problems to be Solved by the Invention
[0006] An object of the present invention is to provide a solid oil-based cleansing cosmetic that is excellent in removing makeup dirt, has good skin affinity even when used at low temperatures, and has good stability in a wide temperature range.
Means for Solving the Problems
[0007] As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have found that a solid oil-based cleansing cosmetic containing the following components (A) to (C) in predetermined amounts can solve the above problems.
[0008] That is, the solid oil-based cleansing cosmetic according to the present invention contains the following component (A) 7 ~20% by mass, component (B) 50 to 88It is characterized by containing 5 to 30% by mass of component (C) in terms of mass%. Component (A): Stearyl stearate and / or pentaerythritol tetrabehenate Component (B): an oil that is liquid at 25°C Component (C): a nonionic surfactant selected from polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester type nonionic surfactants and polyglycerin fatty acid ester type nonionic surfactants having an HLB value of 5 to 15 and having a polyhydric alcohol skeleton, or two or more thereof
Advantages of the Invention
[0009] According to the solid oily cleansing cosmetic of the present invention, it is excellent in removing makeup dirt, can be spread on the skin with a light force even when used at low temperatures, so it has good skin compatibility, and has the effect of good stability in a wide temperature range, and can solve all the above-mentioned conventional problems.
Modes for Carrying Out the Invention
[0010] Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described. In the present invention, "solid" means having shape retention at normal temperature (25°C), and "liquid" means not having shape retention at normal temperature (25°C). The presence or absence of shape retention can be evaluated by, for example, the same method as the evaluation of <shape retention at 50°C> described in the following examples. Specifically, the sample is placed in a glass jar container, and at 25°C, a weight of 75 g with a diameter of 25 mm is placed on it. If the weight does not sink at all, it is evaluated that there is shape retention, and in other cases, it is evaluated that there is no shape retention. In addition, the numerical range defined using the symbol "~" in this specification includes the numerical values at both ends (upper limit and lower limit) of "~". For example, "2~5" represents 2 or more and 5 or less. Furthermore, when a concentration or amount is specified, any higher concentration or amount can be associated with any lower concentration or amount. For example, when there are descriptions of "2~10% by mass" and "preferably 4~8% by mass", descriptions of "2~4% by mass", "2~8% by mass", "4~10% by mass", and "8~10% by mass" are also included.
[0011] The solid oily cleansing cosmetic of the present invention contains a component (A), a component (B), and a component (C) in predetermined amounts respectively. The total of the respective contents of the component (A), the component (B), and the component (C) is 100% by mass. First, the component (A) will be described sequentially.
[0012] 〔Component (A): Fatty acid ester wax〕 The component (A) used in the present invention is a fatty acid ester wax that is solid at normal temperature (25 °C), and is an essential component for solidifying the cleansing cosmetic of the present invention into a solid form.
[0013] The melting point of the component (A) is 60 to 100 °C, preferably 70 to 90 °C. When the melting point is excessively low, it becomes difficult to uniformly solidify the cleansing cosmetic, and there is a possibility that the solid form cannot be maintained at high temperatures or liquefies. When the melting point is excessively high, the cleansing cosmetic becomes excessively hard, and the skin compatibility at low temperatures may decrease. In addition, the melting point of the component (A) in the present invention is the melting point measured in accordance with the standard fat and oil analysis test method (2.2.4.2 Melting point (rising melting point), edited by the Japan Oil Chemists' Society).
[0014] The component (A) has an area included in the range of 7 °C on the low temperature side and 3 °C on the high temperature side, a total of 10 °C, from the temperature of the maximum peak in the differential thermal curve, which is 60% or more of the total peak area, preferably 80% or more, more preferably 90% or more of the total peak area. When the ratio of such an area is excessively low, the skin compatibility at low temperatures and the stability at a wide range of temperatures may decrease. In addition, the maximum peak temperature is the temperature at which the heat absorption amount becomes maximum in the differential thermal curve obtained by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The total peak area refers to the area enclosed by two lines, namely the extended line of the high-temperature baseline to the low-temperature side and the differential thermal curve, in the differential thermal curve obtained by DSC. Also, the area included in the range of a total of 10 °C from 7 °C on the low-temperature side and 3 °C on the high-temperature side from the temperature of the maximum peak means that at 7 °C on the low-temperature side and 3 °C on the high-temperature side from the maximum peak temperature, when perpendicular lines (lines parallel to the vertical axis) are drawn from the temperature axis respectively, it is the area of the range enclosed by the baseline of the differential thermal curve (including the extended line when the high-temperature baseline of the differential thermal curve is extended to the low-temperature side), the perpendicular line on the high-temperature side, the perpendicular line on the low-temperature side, and the differential thermal curve. For more specific explanations, reference can be made to Japanese Patent Publication No. 4435434.
[0015] As the fatty acid constituting the fatty acid ester wax of the present invention, higher fatty acids are preferred. For example, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid can be mentioned. Among these, higher fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms are more preferred, and higher fatty acids having 18 to 22 carbon atoms are particularly preferred. As the alcohol constituting the fatty acid ester wax of the present invention, monohydric higher alcohols such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol; dihydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol; trihydric alcohols such as glycerin, pentanetriol, trimethylolpropane; tetrahydric alcohols such as pentaerythritol, hexanetetrol; pentahydric alcohols such as glucose; hexahydric alcohols such as sorbitol, sorbitan, mannitol, dipentaerythritol; polyhydric alcohols with different valences depending on the degree of polymerization such as polyglycerin can be mentioned. Among these, polyhydric alcohols are preferred, and polyhydric alcohols having 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups in the molecule are more preferred.
[0016] Examples of the fatty acid ester wax include stearyl stearate, behenyl behenate, pentaerythritol tetrabehenate, pentaerythritol tetrastearate, hexaglycerin octabehenate, and the like.
[0017] As the component (A), a single fatty acid ester wax may be selected and used, or two or more fatty acid ester waxes may be appropriately combined and used. Further, a mixture of fatty acid ester waxes can be used, for example, carnauba wax can be used.
[0018] The content of the component (A) is 4 to 20% by mass, preferably 7 to 20% by mass, more preferably 7 to 15% by mass in the cleansing cosmetic. When the content of the component (A) is excessively small, the stability in a wide temperature range may not be ensured. When the content of the component (A) is excessively large, the skin affinity at low temperatures may decrease.
[0019] [Component (B): Liquid oil] The component (B) used in the present invention is an oil that is liquid at normal temperature (25°C). The component (B) is not particularly limited as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics, and any of animal oils, vegetable oils, and synthetic oils can be used.
[0020] Specific examples of the liquid oil include, for example, hydrocarbons, ethers, esters, vegetable oils, and silicone oils. Examples of the hydrocarbons include liquid paraffin, squalane, and hydrogenated polyisobutene. Examples of the ethers include dioctyl ether, ethylene glycol monolauryl ether, ethylene glycol dioctyl ether, and glycerol monooleyl ether. Examples of esters include glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethyl stearate, octyl palmitate, isocetyl isostearate, butyl stearate, ethyl linoleate, isopropyl linoleate, ethyl oleate, isocetyl myristate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl caprylate, decyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl myristate, stearyl stearate, decyl oleate, cetyl ricinoleate, isostearyl laurate, isotridecyl myristate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl oleate, isopropyl isostearate, hexyl isostearate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl triisopalmitate, glyceryl triisostearate, isostearyl octanoate, octyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate, and octyldodecyl isostearate, etc. Examples of vegetable oils include olive oil, soybean oil, and jojoba oil, etc. Examples of silicone oils include methylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylcyclopolysiloxane, etc.
[0021] As component (B), a single liquid oil may be selected and used, or two or more liquid oils may be appropriately combined and used. For example, two or more kinds can be combined and used from among hydrocarbons, ethers, esters, vegetable oils, and silicone oils.
[0022] From the perspective of improving makeup stain removal, among these liquid oils, a mixture of non-polar oils such as hydrocarbons and silicone oils, and polar oils such as ethers, esters, and vegetable oils is preferred. In particular, it is more preferable to select hydrocarbons as the non-polar oil and esters or vegetable oils as the polar oil. As the mixing ratio, it is preferably non-polar oil:polar oil = 1:4 to 2:1, more preferably 1:2 to 3:2.
[0023] The content of component (B) is 50 to 90% by mass, preferably 60 to 85% by mass in the cleansing cosmetic. When the content of component (B) is excessively low, the removal of makeup stains may not be sufficient. When the content of component (B) is excessively high, the stability at high temperatures may decrease, or stickiness may occur during rinsing.
[0024] [Component (C): Nonionic surfactant] Component (C) used in the present invention is a nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 5 to 15, preferably 5 to 12, more preferably 7 to 12. When the HLB value of the nonionic surfactant is excessively low or excessively high, the removal of makeup stains may decrease.
[0025] HLB is an abbreviation for Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance, which is a concept that quantifies the balance between the hydrophilic group and lipophilic group of a surfactant. Generally, HLB is represented by a numerical value within the range of 0 to 20, and the larger the numerical value, the higher the hydrophilicity. The HLB value can be determined by the Griffin method represented by the following formula. HLB value = 20 × (molecular weight of hydrophilic group / total molecular weight)
[0026] Component (C) is one or more nonionic surfactants selected from polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester type nonionic surfactants and polyglycerin fatty acid ester type nonionic surfactants having a polyhydric alcohol skeleton.
[0027] Examples of polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester type nonionic surfactants having a polyhydric alcohol skeleton include polyoxyethylene glyceryl fatty acid and polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid. Specifically, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (HLB: 5.5), PEG-10 glyceryl tristearate (HLB: 5.0), PEG-10 glyceryl triisostearate (HLB: 5.0), PEG-10 glyceryl trioleate (HLB: 5.0), PEG-3 glyceryl isostearate (HLB: 6.0), PEG-10 glyceryl diisostearate (HLB: 7.0), PEG-5 glyceryl isostearate (HLB: 8.0), PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate (HLB: 8.0), PEG-30 glyceryl triisostearate (HLB: 10.0), sorbeth-30 tetraisostearate (HLB: 11.1), sorbeth-6 tetraoleate (HLB: 5.0), PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate (HLB: 12), etc. can be mentioned.
[0028] Examples of polyglycerol fatty acid ester type nonionic surfactants include polyglyceryl-2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), polyglyceryl-2 oleate (HLB: 5.5), polyglyceryl-4 stearate (HLB: 6.0), polyglyceryl-4 oleate (HLB: 6.0), polyglyceryl-10 tristearate (HLB: 7.5), polyglyceryl-10 trioleate (HLB: 7.0), etc.
[0029] Among these nonionic surfactants, polyoxyethylene glyceryl fatty acid and polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid are preferred, and PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate and sorbeth-30 tetraisostearate are more preferred.
[0030] The content of component (C) is 5 to 30% by mass, preferably 10 to 30% by mass, more preferably 10 to 25% by mass in the cleansing cosmetic. When the content of component (C) is excessively low, the removal of makeup dirt may be insufficient. When the content of component (C) is excessively high, stickiness may occur during rinsing.
[0031] In the solid oily cleansing cosmetic of the present invention, additives commonly used in cosmetics can be appropriately blended as needed. Such additives are not particularly limited as long as they do not interfere with the object of the present invention. For example, oil components, surfactants, humectants, thickeners, coloring materials, alcohols, ultraviolet ray protectants, amino acids, vitamins, whitening agents, organic acids, inorganic salts, enzymes, antioxidants, stabilizers, preservatives, bactericides, anti-inflammatory agents, skin activators, blood circulation promoters, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-inflammatory agents and other drugs, sequestering agents, pH adjusters, astringents, cooling agents, fragrances, pigments, etc. are included. Note that those corresponding to components (A) to (C) among these additives are excluded.
Examples
[0032] Examples are given below 、 Comparative Examples and Reference Examples The present invention will be described in detail with reference to these.
[0033] <Examples 1 to 9, Reference Example 1 , Comparative Examples 1 to 5> Raw materials were weighed according to the compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2, and while heating at a temperature equal to or higher than the melting point of the fatty acid ester wax of component (A), they were stirred until uniform to prepare a solid oily cleansing product. Examples , Reference Example Using each sample obtained in the examples and comparative examples, the removal of makeup dirt, relative shear viscosity, skin compatibility at low temperature, shape retention at 50°C, and storage stability at 4°C and 50°C were evaluated as follows, and the results are shown in Tables 1 and 2 together. Regarding the fatty acid ester wax of the used component (A), the melting characteristics were measured using a differential thermal curve, and the area ratios at 7 °C on the low-temperature side and 3 °C on the high-temperature side were determined from the maximum peak temperature with respect to the total peak area. The area of the 10 °C range including the obtained maximum peak was noted together with the display names of the component (A) in Tables 1 and 2. In addition, the composition of each component in Tables 1 and 2 is shown in mass % with respect to the total amount of the cleansing cosmetic, and is a value converted to the active ingredient.
[0034] <Makeup dirt removal> After 10 healthy panelists applied a commercially available lipstick to their skin, they performed cleansing using the solid oily cleansing agents prepared in the examples , Reference Example and comparative examples. Regarding the removal of makeup dirt at that time, relative evaluation was performed in three stages according to the following scoring criteria. The total score of 10 people was calculated and evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. (Scoring criteria) 3 points: The removal of makeup dirt is good. 2 points: The removal of makeup dirt is somewhat good. 1 point: The removal of makeup dirt is not good. (Evaluation criteria) ◎: 25 points or more ○: 20 points or more and less than 25 points △: 15 points or more and less than 20 points ×: Less than 15 points
[0035] <Relative shear viscosity> Using a viscoelasticity measuring instrument, the shear viscosity (Pa·s) at a shear rate of 10 (1 / s) was measured at 4 °C and 50 °C, and the value obtained by dividing the shear viscosity at 4 °C by the shear viscosity at 50 °C was defined as the relative shear viscosity. Since the shear viscosity is proportional to the shear stress, a large value of the relative shear viscosity indicates that the shear stress at 4 °C is higher than the shear stress at 50 °C, indicating that a stronger force is required to spread at 4 °C than at 50 °C. The obtained relative shear viscosity was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. (Evaluation criteria) ◎: The relative shear viscosity is 2 or less. ○: The relative shear viscosity is greater than 2 and less than or equal to 3. △: The relative shear viscosity is greater than 3 and less than or equal to 5. ×: The relative shear viscosity is greater than 5.
[0036] <Skin compatibility at low temperature> Ten healthy panelists applied the solid oily cleansing agents of the examples , Reference Example and comparative examples that had been left standing at 4°C to their skin, and the skin compatibility at low temperature was relatively evaluated in three grades according to the following scoring criteria. The total score of the 10 panelists was calculated and evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. (Scoring criteria) 3 points: The skin compatibility at low temperature is good. 2 points: The skin compatibility at low temperature is slightly good. 1 point: The skin compatibility at low temperature is not good. (Evaluation criteria) ◎: 25 points or more ○: 20 points or more and less than 25 points △: Less than 20 points
[0037] <Shape retention at 50°C> Examples , Reference Example and the solid oily cleansing agents of the comparative examples were placed in a glass jar container, a 25 mm diameter weight of 75 g was placed on them at 50°C, and the degree of sinking of the weight was visually judged according to the following criteria to evaluate the shape retention at 50°C. (Evaluation criteria) ○: The weight does not sink at all. △: The weight sinks slightly and sweating occurs from the surface. ×: The weight sinks and the shape collapses.
[0038] <Storage stability in a wide temperature range> Examples , Reference Example and the solid oily cleansing agents of the comparative examples were placed in a 30 g glass jar container and sealed, and stored in a constant temperature bath at 4°C and 50°C. The appearance of the solid oily cleansing agents after one week was visually judged according to the following criteria to evaluate the storage stability at 4°C and 50°C. (Evaluation criteria) ◎: No change in appearance at all. ○: Slight sweating is observed in the appearance. △: Sweating is clearly observed. ×: Separated.
[0039]
Table 1
[0040]
Table 2
[0041] As is clear from Table 1, Examples 1 to 9 all had excellent makeup stain removal, relative shear viscosity, and shape retention at 50°C, were skin-friendly even when used at low temperatures, and had good stability over a wide temperature range.
[0042] In contrast, as is clear from Table 2, in Comparative Example 1, since the content of component (A) was too low, the relative shear viscosity was inferior, and the shape retention and stability were not good. In Comparative Example 2, since the content of component (A) was too high, the makeup stain removal was not good, and the skin-friendliness at low temperatures was not good. In Comparative Example 3, since the content of component (B) was too low, the makeup stain removal was not good. In Comparative Example 4, since the proportion of the area in a predetermined range in the differential thermal curve was low and a hydrocarbon wax that did not correspond to component (A) was used, the relative shear viscosity was large, and the skin-friendliness at low temperatures was not good. In Comparative Example 5, since a nonionic surfactant with a high HLB value and a nonionic surfactant with a low HLB value were used instead of component (C), the relative shear viscosity was large, and the shape retention and storage stability at 50°C were not good.
Industrial Applicability
[0043] The solid oil-based cleansing cosmetic of the present invention can be used as a cleansing agent for removing makeup cosmetics and dirt on the skin, and also as a cleansing agent for removing pharmaceuticals, quasi-drugs, and cosmetics applied on the skin of the whole body except the face.
Claims
【Claim 1】 A solid oily cleansing cosmetic characterized by containing 7 to 20% by mass of the following component (A), 50 to 88% by mass of component (B), and 5 to 30% by mass of component (C). Component (A): Stearyl stearate and / or pentaerythritol tetrabehenate Component (B): An oil that is liquid at 25°C Component (C): One or more nonionic surfactants selected from polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester type nonionic surfactants and polyglycerin fatty acid ester type nonionic surfactants having an HLB value of 5 to 15 and a polyhydric alcohol skeleton
Citation Information
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