Inverse latex for a cosmetic composition comprising a specific chelating agent and a polyelectrolyte combining a strong acid functional group and a weak acid functional group

Abstract

Disclosed is a self-reversible reverse latex comprising: a) a crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) consisting of at least one first monomer unit derived from 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]1-propanesulfonic acid in the free or partially or fully salified acid form; at least one second monomer unit derived from at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, 2-carboxyethylacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, 3-methyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]butanoic acid, the carboxylic acid functionality of said monomer being in the free, partially salified, or fully salified acid form; and at least one third monomer unit derived from a polyethylenic crosslinking monomer (AR); b) an aqueous phase containing ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid in the form of its trisodium salt.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a self-reversible inverse latex containing a novel metal ion sequestering agent, a method for preparing such a self-reversible inverse latex, a thickening agent and / or an emulsifying agent and / or a stabilizer used for preparing a cosmetic composition or a pharmaceutical composition for topical use, and also to the composition thus prepared.

Background Art

[0002] Polymers are widely used today in cosmetic formulations for topical use and represent the second most widely used family of products in this type of formulation. Cosmetic compositions contain a polar phase, for example, a phase consisting of water, and in most cases require the use of a rheology-modifying polymer to increase the viscosity of these polar phases and also to impart a defined rheological behavior.

[0003] Among the polymers that modify the rheology of the polar phase, mention may be made of natural or synthetic polymers, and in particular, polymers of the polyelectrolyte type that are linear or branched, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, anionic or cationic, or amphiphilic. When introduced into the polar phase, these polymers have the property of unfolding under the effect of electrostatic repulsion forces due to the presence of (negative and / or positive) charges on the linear or branched, non-crosslinked or crosslinked polymer backbone. The rheology modifier achieves both an increase in the viscosity of the polar phase and also a certain degree of thickening and / or stabilizing effect imparted to the thickened cosmetic, dermatological or skin pharmaceutical formulation.

[0004] To meet the needs of consumers and improve cosmetic formulations for topical use, scientists have developed novel, innovative and diverse polymer systems. Thus, polymers used in cosmetics or dermatologicals for topical use act as film formers, rheology modifiers, enable the stabilization of the fat phase in an emulsion (oil-in-water or water-in-oil) or of particles (pigments or fillers), or else, after application to the skin, impart specific sensory properties (such as a soft feel, ease of handling and application, freshness effect, etc.) and can also have a direct influence on the appearance of the formulation (semi-transparent or opaque).

[0005] Rheology-modifying polymers for the aqueous phase, mainly polyelectrolytes, result from the radical polymerization of (meth)acrylate type monomers, i.e. esters derived from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, or else derivatives of acrylamide.

[0006] Today, these polymers, which can be provided in the form of inverse latex, concentrated inverse latex or powder, make it possible to meet the customer's needs with regard to the thickening performance in polar solvents, such as water. The aqueous gels obtained have a smooth appearance, are free of particles or lumps, have specific sensory properties on touching and also ease of handling and application when these polymers are dispersed in water.

[0007] The liquid form, or its concentrated liquid form, known under the name of "self-reversible inverse latex", is a composition provided in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, - an aqueous phase (which itself contains at least one polymer of the polyelectrolyte type, linear and / or branched and / or crosslinked, anionic, or cationic, or amphoteric type), - a fatty phase containing at least one oil, - at least one oil-in-water emulsifying surfactant (S1), - at least one water-in-oil emulsifying surfactant (S2) and - The polymer is obtained by performing an inverse emulsion radical polymerization process.

[0008] Radical polymerization is known for its sensitivity to the presence of impurities, even in small amounts. Compounds that can cause a decrease in the polymerization rate at low concentrations are known as inhibitors or retarders. However, the distinction between these two effects is not always straightforward, and the same compound can have both detrimental effects depending on its concentration in the medium or the nature of the monomer and the reaction medium. The reproducible performance of polymers that thicken the aqueous phase must be ensured in order to guarantee the consistent quality of cosmetic formulations for topical use containing these polymers. For this purpose, industrial manufacturers must ensure that the polymerization reaction follows the same kinetics repeatedly with respect to, more specifically, the inhibition time, the temperature increase profile, and the total duration of the polymerization reaction over a long period. Given these constraints, particular attention is paid to factors that can affect the initiation of the radical polymerization reaction, such as the presence of oxygen, which can delay the polymerization reaction by reacting with the generated radicals. These novel peroxide radicals have a lower reactivity due to their reduced initiating ability. This is reflected in a weaker initiation step and a lower propagation rate, and thus polymers with different thickening properties are ultimately obtained. In particular, it is found that the step of deoxygenating the medium by purging with nitrogen before initiating the polymerization reaction is thus necessary.

[0009] Another factor that directly affects the polymerization is the presence of metallic species (such as Fe2+, Fe3+, Cu2+) that cause an inhibitory effect. In this case, inhibition can occur during the initiation phase by the reaction of the initiator radicals with the metallic impurities, and thus the active radical centers become unable to fix another monomer unit and become inactive during the polymerization.

[0010] The above-mentioned metal ions can potentially be derived from the starting materials or other items of equipment.

[0011] The monomers used for the preparation of self-reversible inverse latex may have trace amounts of metal cations. Similarly, it is not impossible to anticipate the presence of metallic contaminants in items of industrial equipment that undergo polymerization reactions. In most cases, the items of equipment are made of stainless steel, and several types of stainless steel with different compositions are found. Stainless steel is an iron-based alloy, to which nickel, chromium or molybdenum may be added in some cases. In the presence of oxygen, it is chromium that gives stainless steel its antioxidant properties, because chromium can regenerate its surface chromium oxide layer, known as the passive layer, by itself.

[0012] However, due to the source of contamination, acids, moisture, splashes from seawater or long-term contact with iron-containing dust, or in the case of deep scratches, the protective layer is depassivated (and thus activated), and it is not impossible for stainless steel to oxidize more rapidly than it can protect itself. In these cases, the appearance of rust can be found, and this rust is a source of iron-based metal contaminants.

[0013] Considering the risks associated with the presence of all these sources of metal contaminants, the use of metal ion sequestering agents is inevitable. The product commonly used is the pentasodium salt of diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (also known as Versenex™ 80).

[0014] However, changes in European regulations regarding the classification of the pentasodium salt of diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid have led to the search for alternative solutions as metal ion sequestering agents for the preparation of self-reversible inverse latex.

Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0015] Starting from there, the problem that arises is to provide a novel inverse latex with a novel metal ion sequestering agent that is as effective as the pentasodium salt of diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid but has properties compliant with changes in regulations.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0016] One solution of the present invention is a) at least one first monomer unit resulting from 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in free acid form or in partially or fully chlorinated form; - at least one second monomer unit derived from at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, 2-carboxyethylacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, 3-methyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]butanoic acid (the carboxylic acid functional groups of said monomers are in free acid form or in partially chlorinated or fully chlorinated form); - at least one third monomer unit derived from a monomer for polyethylene crosslinking (AR) comprising a crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) b) ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid in trisodium salt form and an aqueous phase containing the same, which is a self-reversible inverse latex.

Modes for Carrying Out the Invention

[0017] Optionally, the self-reversible inverse latex according to the present invention may have one or more of the following features: - The aqueous phase contains at least 0.01 mol% of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid in trisodium salt form; - The monomer (AR) for polyethylene crosslinking is selected from methylenebis(acrylamide), ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, diallyloxyacetic acid or its salt, for example, sodium diallyloxyacetate, or a mixture of these compounds; - The monomer (AR) for crosslinking is methylenebis(acrylamide) or triallylamine; - The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte contains, per 100 mol%: monomer units derived from 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in the form of free acid or partially or completely chlorinated form, in a proportion of 20 mol% to 90 mol%, more specifically 32 mol% to 90 mol%, even more specifically 40 mol% to 80 mol%; monomer units derived from at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, 2-carboxyethyl acrylate, itaconic acid, maleic acid, 3-methyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]butanoic acid, in a proportion of 10 mol% to 80 mol%, more specifically 10 mol% to 68 mol%, even more specifically 20 mol% to 60 mol% (the carboxylic acid functional groups of the monomers are in the form of free acid or partially or completely chlorinated form); and monomer units derived from at least one monomer for polyethylene crosslinking (AR) in a molar ratio of more than 0 mol% and equal to or less than 1 mol%, more specifically equal to or less than 0.5 mol%, even more specifically equal to or less than 0.25 mol%, most particularly equal to or less than 0.1 mol%, more specifically equal to or more than 0.005 mol%.

[0018] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P)" means a non-linear polyelectrolyte provided in the form of a three-dimensional network structure that is insoluble in water but can swell in water, resulting in the formation of a chemical gel, with respect to the polymer (P).

[0019] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "chlorinated" indicates that the acid functional groups present in the monomer are in salt form with cations such as sodium or potassium cations, particularly alkali metal salts, or cations of nitrogen bases, such as ammonium salts, lysine salts or monoethanolamine salts (HOCH2-CH2-NH3 + ), etc., in an anionic form. They are preferably sodium or ammonium salts.

[0020] According to one particular embodiment of the present invention, the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above contains 20% to 90% by weight, more particularly 30% to 90% by weight, more particularly 30% to 80% by weight, and even more particularly 33% to 80% by weight of the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P).

[0021] According to another particular embodiment of the present invention, the molar ratio of monomer units derived from 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in free acid form or in partially or fully chlorinated form present in the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) is 32 mol% or more and 100 mol% or less, more particularly 40 mol% or more and 100 mol% or less.

[0022] According to another particular embodiment of the present invention, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte contains, per 100 mol%: 20 mol% to 90 mol%, more specifically 32 mol% to 90 mol%, and even more specifically 40 mol% to 80 mol% of monomer units derived from 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in free acid form or in partially or fully chlorinated form; -10 mol% to 80 mol%, more specifically 10 mol% to 68 mol%, even more specifically 20 mol% to 60 mol%, of at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, 2-carboxyethyl acrylate, itaconic acid, maleic acid, 3-methyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]butanoic acid; the carboxylic acid functional groups of said monomers being in the form of the free acid or in a partially or fully chlorinated form); and - more than 0 mol% and equal to or less than 1 mol%, more specifically equal to or less than 0.5 mol%, even more specifically equal to or less than 0.25 mol%, most particularly equal to or less than 0.1 mol%, more specifically equal to or more than 0.005 mol%, of the molar ratio of monomer units derived from at least one polyethylene crosslinking monomer (AR). According to a particular aspect of the invention, 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid is in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt.

[0023] According to a particular aspect of the invention, acrylic acid is in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt.

[0024] The subject of the invention also concerns the following steps: a) preparing an aqueous phase as previously defined; and b) preparing an organic phase comprising at least one oil (O) and a water-in-oil emulsifier system (S1); and c) mixing the aqueous and organic phases prepared in steps a) and b) and emulsifying to form an emulsion; and d) inactivating the emulsion with nitrogen; and e) initiating a polymerization reaction by introducing a free radical initiator into the inactivated emulsion. f) Step of introducing an oil-in-water emulsifier system (S2) into the reaction medium resulting from step e) at a temperature of 30 °C to 60 °C and A method for preparing an inverse latex as defined above, comprising:

[0025] Optionally, the method according to the invention may have one or more of the following features: - This method includes, between steps a) and b), adding a solution selected from a sodium hydroxide solution, a potassium hydroxide solution, an ammonium hydroxide solution, a monoethanolamine salt solution, and a lysine salt solution to the aqueous phase prepared in step a); - In step e), the radical initiator is a redox pair that generates bisulfite (HSO3 - ) ions, for example, a cumene hydroperoxide / sodium metabisulfite (Na2S2O5) pair or a cumene hydroperoxide / thionyl chloride (SOCl2) pair; - In step e), the polymerization co-initiator, preferably azobis(isobutyronitrile), is introduced into the inactivated emulsion; - In step a), the pH of the aqueous phase is adjusted to 3.0 to 7.0, more specifically 3.5 to 6.5, and even more specifically 4.0 to 6.5; - The reaction medium resulting from step e) is concentrated by distillation before performing step f); - The reaction medium resulting from step e) or f) is spray-dried.

[0026] The term "oil (O)" in the definition of the self-reversible inverse latex specifically refers to: - Linear alkanes containing 11 to 19 carbon atoms; - Those described below and their INCI names: C 7~8 Isoparaffin, C 8~9 Isoparaffin, C 9~11 Isoparaffin, C 9~12 Isoparaffin, C 9~13 Isoparaffin, C 9~14 Isoparaffin, C9~16 Isoparaffin, C 10~11 Isoparaffin, C 10~12 Isoparaffin, C 10~13 Isoparaffin, C 11~12 Isoparaffin, C 11~13 Isoparaffin, C 11~14 Isoparaffin, C 12~14 Isoparaffin, C 12~20 Isoparaffin, C 13~14 Isoparaffin, C 13~16 Branched alkanes containing 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as those specified by isoparaffin, isododecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isoheptadecane, isooctadecane, isononadecane or isoeicosane, or mixtures of several of them; - Cycloalkanes optionally substituted with one or more linear or branched alkyl groups; - The following names: Marcol TM 52, Marcol TM 82, Drakeol TM 6VR, Eolane TM 130, Eolane TM White mineral oil, such as products sold under 150; - Hemisqualane (i.e., 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane; CAS No.: 3891-98-3), squalane (i.e., 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane), hydrogenated polyisobutene or hydrogenated polydecene; - A mixture of alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms (the alkanes are linear alkanes, branched alkanes and cycloalkanes), more particularly, a branched alkane in a mass ratio of 90% or more and 100% or less per 100% of its mass; a linear alkane in a mass ratio of 0% or more and 9% or less, more particularly less than 5%, and a cycloalkane in a mass ratio of 0% or more and 1% or less (Mixture (M1)), for example, a mixture sold under the name Emogreen TM L15 or Emogreen TM Mixtures sold under L19; - Formula (IV): Z1-O-Z2 (IV) (wherein Z1 and Z2, which may be the same or different, each represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing 5 to 18 carbon atoms) of fatty alcohol ethers such as dioctyl ether, didecyl ether, didodecyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, dihexadecyl ether, (1,3-dimethylbutyl)tetradecyl ether, (1,3-dimethylbutyl)hexadecyl ether, bis(1,3-dimethylbutyl)ether or dihexyl ether; - of formula (V): R’1-(C=O)-O-R’2 (V) (wherein R’1-(C=O) represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acyl group containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and R’2, independently of R’1, represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 24 carbon atoms) Monoesters of fatty acids and alcohols, such as methyl laurate, ethyl laurate, propyl laurate, isopropyl laurate, butyl laurate, 2-butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, methyl cocoate, ethyl cocoate, propyl cocoate, isopropyl cocoate, butyl cocoate, 2-butyl cocoate, hexyl cocoate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, 2-butyl myristate, hexyl myristate, octyl myristate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, propyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, 2-butyl palmitate, hexyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, methyl oleate, ethyl oleate, propyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, butyl oleate, 2-butyl oleate, hexyl oleate, octyl oleate, methyl stearate, ethyl stearate, propyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, 2-butyl stearate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, methyl isostearate, ethyl isostearate, propyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, 2-butyl isostearate, hexyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate; - Of formula (VI) and formula (VII): R’3-(C=O)-O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O-(C=O)-R’4(VI) R’5-(C=O)-O-CH2-CH[O-(C=O)-R’6]-CH2-OH (VII) (In formula (VI) and (VII), R’3-(C=O), R’4-(C=O), R’5-(C=O) and R’6-(C=O), which may be the same or different, represent saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acyl groups containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms) Diesters of fatty acids and glycerol; - Of formula (VIII): R’7-(C=O)-O-CH2-CH[O-(C=O)-R’’8]-CH2-O-(C=O)-R’’9 (VIII) (wherein R’7-(C=O), R’8-(C=O) and R’9-(C=O), which may be the same or different, each represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acyl group containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms) and is a triester of a fatty acid and glycerol and means

[0027] According to another specific aspect of the present invention, the oil (H) is undecane, tridecane, isododecane and isohexadecane, for example, a mixture (M1) as defined above and the name Emogreen TM L15, Emogreen TM L19, Emosmart TM L15, Emosmart TM L19, Emosmart TM V21, Isopar TM L or Isopar TM a mixture of an alkane, an isoalkane and a cycloalkane of a mixture sold as TM 52, Marcol TM 82, Drakeol TM 6VR, Eolane TM 130 or Eolane TM 150; white mineral oil; hemisqualane, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene or hydrogenated polydecene; dioctyl ether or didecyl ether; isopropyl myristate, hexyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octanoyl / decanoyl triglyceride, hexadecanoyl / octadecanoyl triglyceride, triglycerides derived from rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil or coconut oil

[0028] In the self-reversible inverse latex which is the subject of the present invention, the water-in-oil emulsion system (S1) consists of a single emulsifying surfactant or a mixture of emulsifying surfactants, provided that the resulting emulsion system (S1) has an HLB value low enough to result in the formation of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0029] Examples of water-in-oil emulsifying surfactants (S1) include esters of anhydrohexitol and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic carboxylic acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, more particularly esters of anhydrohexitol selected from anhydro sorbitol and anhydro mannitol and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic carboxylic acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.

[0030] According to another specific aspect of the present disclosure, the water-in-oil emulsion system (S1) is sorbitan laurate, for example, the product sold under the name Montane TM 20, sorbitan palmitate, for example, the product sold under the name Montane TM 40, sorbitan stearate, for example, the product sold under the name Montane TM 60, sorbitan oleate, for example, the product sold under the name Montane TM 80, sorbitan sesquioleate, for example, the product sold under the name Montane TM 85, sorbitan trioleate, for example, the product sold under the name Montane TM 83, sorbitan isolaurate, sorbitan isostearate, for example, the product sold under the name Montane TM 70, mannitol laurate, mannitol oleate, or a mixture of these esters; Hypermer TM Polyesters derived from the condensation between a molecular weight of 1000 to 3000 and poly(isobutenyl) succinic acid or its acid anhydride, such as Hypermer TMThe mixture sold as IE 501 A, polyglycol polyhydroxystearate of formula (IX): [Chemical Formula 1] [Chemical Formula] [In formula (IX), y2 represents an integer of 2 or more and 50 or less, Z4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or an ethyl group, and Z3 represents a formula (X): [Chemical Formula 2] [Chemical Formula] (In formula (X), y’2 represents an integer of 0 or more and 10 or less, more particularly 1 or more and 10 or less) represents a group of formula (X) as defined above, or a hydrogen atom, where Z’3 is the same as Z3 or different from Z3) and is selected from the elements of the group consisting of.

[0031] Examples of water-in-oil emulsifying surfactants of formula (IX) that can be used to prepare the emulsion system (S1) include the name Simaline TM PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate sold as WO, or a mixture containing PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, with the name Simaline TM IE 201 A and Simaline TM a mixture sold as IE 201 B, or the name Simaline TM a mixture containing trimethylolpropane-30 tripolyhydroxystearate sold as IE 301 B.

[0032] According to a particular aspect of the invention, the oil-in-water (S2) emulsion system contains, per 100% of its mass, a proportion of composition (C e ) equal to or more than 50% by mass and equal to or less than 100%, which, per 100% of its mass:[[]] 10% to 60% by mass, more particularly 15% to 60% by mass, most particularly 15% to 50% by mass, of at least one compound of formula (I): HO-[CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O]n-H (I) (wherein n represents an integer equal to or greater than 1 and less than or equal to 15); 40% to 90% by mass, more specifically 40% to 85% by mass, and most particularly 50% to 85% by mass of at least one compound of formula (II): R1-(C=O)-[O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2]p-OH (II), (wherein p, which is different from or the same as n, represents an integer equal to or greater than 1 and less than or equal to 15; the group R1-(C=O)- represents a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched aliphatic group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms); and optionally up to 30% by mass, more specifically 0% to 25% by mass, and most particularly 0% to 20% by mass of at least one composition (C11) represented by formula (III): HO-[CH2-CHOH-CH2-O-]q-(G)r-H (III), (wherein q, which is different from or the same as n, represents an integer equal to or greater than 1 and less than or equal to 3, G represents a reducing sugar residue, and r represents a decimal equal to or greater than 1.05 and less than or equal to 5.00) and the composition (C11) has a1, a2, a3, a4, and a5 equal to the molar ratios of the compounds of formulas (III1), (III2), (III3), (III4), and (III5), respectively, such that the sum (a1 + a2 + a3 + a4 + a5) is equal to 1 and the sum (a1 + 2a2 + 3a3 + 4a4 + 5a5) is equal to r, HO-[CH2-CHOH-CH2-O-]q-O-(G)1-H (III1), HO-[CH2-CHOH-CH2-O-]q-O-(G)2-H (III2), HO-[CH2-CHOH-CH2-O-]q-O-(G)3-H (III3), HO-[CH2-CHOH-CH2-O-]q-O-(G)4-H (III4), HO-[CH2-CHOH-CH2-O-]q-O-(G)5-H (III5), and consists of a mixture of.

[0033] The oil-in-water emulsion system (S2) is, on the condition that the resulting emulsion system (S2) has an HLB value high enough to result in the formation of an oil-in-water emulsion, either composed of the composition (C e ) alone or composed of a mixture of the composition (C e ) and one or more other emulsifying surfactants.

[0034] The term "reducing sugar" in formula (III) as previously defined refers to saccharide derivatives that do not have a glycosidic bond established between the anomeric carbon and the oxygen of the acetal group in their structure, as defined in the reference publication: "Biochemistry", Daniel Voet / Judith G. Voet, page 250, John Wiley & Sons, 1990. The oligomer structure (G) x may be in any isomeric form, whether it be optical, geometric or positional; this may also represent a mixture of isomers.

[0035] Regarding the polymerization reaction, this starts at a preferred temperature of 10 °C in step e) and then is carried out quasi-adiabatically to a temperature equal to or more than 50 °C, or is carried out by controlling the temperature.

[0036] The subject of the present invention is also the use of the self-reversible inverse latex as previously defined as a thickening agent and / or emulsifying agent and / or stabilizer for cosmetic compositions or pharmaceutical topical compositions.

[0037] The subject of the present invention is also a topical cosmetic composition (F) or a topical pharmaceutical composition (G) characterized in that it contains, as a thickener, said self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in an amount of from 0.1% to 10% by weight per 100% of its total weight.

[0038] The term "topical" as used in the definition of said compositions (F) and (G) means that they are used by application to the skin, hair, scalp or mucosa, whether it relates to direct application, as in the case of cosmetics, skin cosmetics, skin pharmaceuticals or pharmaceutical preparations, or to indirect application, as in the case of body care products in the form of, for example, a textile or paper wipe, or of sanitary articles intended to come into contact with the skin or mucosa.

[0039] Said compositions (F) and (G) are generally provided in the form of an aqueous or aqueous / alcoholic or aqueous / glycol solution, whether they are of the oil-in-water, water-in-oil, water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil type, in the form of a suspension, an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion.

[0040] Said compositions (F) and (G) can be packed in a bottle, in a device of the "pump-action spray" type, in an aerosol device under pressure, in a device provided with a perforated wall, such as a grid, or in a device provided with a ball applicator (known as a "roll-on").

[0041] Generally, the compositions (F) and (G) also include thickening and / or gelling surfactants, stabilizers, film-forming compounds, water repellents, plasticizers, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers, opacifiers, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, regulators, whitening agents for bleaching body hair and skin, active ingredients intended to contribute to treatment effects on the skin or hair, sunscreens, pigments or inorganic fillers, particles for providing a visual effect or encapsulating active ingredients, exfoliating particles or texturing agents, etc., which are excipients and / or active ingredients commonly used in the field of topical preparations, particularly in the fields of cosmetics, skin cosmetics, pharmaceuticals or skin pharmaceutical preparations.

[0042] Examples of foaming and / or detergency surfactants that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic foaming and / or detergency surfactants.

[0043] Examples of foaming and / or detergency anionic surfactants that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, or amino alcohol salts of alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl amide ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl amide sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl sarcosinates, acyl isethionates, N-acyl taurates, acyl lactylates, N-acylated amino acid derivatives, N-acylated peptide derivatives, N-acylated protein derivatives, N-acylated fatty acid derivatives.

[0044] Examples of the foaming and / or detergency amphoteric surfactants that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include alkyl betaines, alkyl amide betaines, sultaines, alkyl amide alkyl sulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates, and amphopropionates.

[0045] Examples of the foaming and / or detergency cationic surfactants that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include, in particular, quaternary ammonium derivatives.

[0046] Examples of the foaming and / or detergency nonionic surfactants that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include, more particularly, alkyl polyglycosides containing linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic groups and containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as octyl polyglucoside, decyl polyglucoside, undecylenyl polyglucoside, dodecyl polyglucoside, tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, or 1,12-dodecanediyl polyglucoside; ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, such as products sold under the INCI name PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil; polysorbates, such as Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 70, Polysorbate 80, or Polysorbate 85; coconut amide; or N-alkylamines.

[0047] Examples of the thickening and / or gelling surfactants that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include ethoxylated methyl polyglucoside esters, for example, under the names Glucamate TM LT and Glucamate TMOptionally alkoxylated alkyl polyglycoside fatty esters such as PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate sold under the name Crothix, sold as DOE-120 TM PEG 150 pentaerythritol tetrastearate sold under the name Antil or DS53 TM Alkoxylated fatty esters such as PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate sold under the name Elfacos, sold as 141 TM PPG-14 lauryl isophoryl dicarbamate sold under the name Elfacos or T211 TM Examples of fatty chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates such as PPG-14 palmeth-60 hexyl dicarbamate sold under the name GT2125

[0048] Examples of thickeners and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include copolymers of AMPS and alkyl acrylates (the carbon chain of which contains 4 to 30, more particularly 10 to 30 carbon atoms), at least one monomer having free, partially chlorinated or fully chlorinated strong acid functional groups, at least one neutral monomer, and the formula (XIII): CH2=C(R’3)-C(=O)-[CH2-CH2-O] n’ -R’4(XIII) (wherein, R’3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R’4 represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and n’ represents a number of 1 or more and 50 or less) and linear, branched or crosslinked terpolymers with at least one monomer of

[0049] Examples of thickeners and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include glucans or glucose homopolymers, glucomannoglucans, xyloglucans, galactomannans (the degree of substitution (DS) of D-galactose units on the main D-mannose chain thereof is from 0 to 1, more particularly from 1 to 0.25), for example, galactomannans of cassia gum (DS = 1 / 5), locust bean gum (DS = 1 / 4), tara gum (DS = 1 / 3), guar gum (DS = 1 / 2) or fenugreek gum (DS = 1) origin, and polysaccharides consisting solely of monosaccharides.

[0050] Examples of thickeners and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include sulfated galactans, more particularly carrageenan and agar, uronans, more particularly algin, alginates and pectin, heteropolymers of monosaccharides and uronic acids, more particularly xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic exudate and karaya gum exudate, or glucosaminoglycans, and polysaccharides consisting of monosaccharide derivatives.

[0051] Examples of thickeners and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include cellulose derivatives such as cellulose, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose or hydroxypropylcellulose, silicates, starch, hydrophilic starch derivatives or polyurethanes.

[0052] Examples of stabilizers that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include single crystal waxes, more particularly ozokerite, inorganic salts such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride, or silicone polymers such as polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers.

[0053] Examples of solvents that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include organic solvents such as glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, or mixtures of water and the organic solvents.

[0054] Examples of thermal water or mineral water that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include thermal water or mineral water having at least 300 mg / L of mineralization, in particular Avene water, Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche-Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allard-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Les Fumades water and Tercis-les-Bains water.

[0055] Examples of dehydrating agents that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include xylene sulfonate, cumene sulfonate, hexyl polyglucoside, 2-ethylhexyl polyglucoside and n-heptyl polyglucoside.

[0056] Examples of emulsifying surfactants that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants or cationic surfactants.

[0057] Examples of emulsifying nonionic surfactants that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include products sold under the names Montane TM 40, Montane TM 60, Montane TM 70, Montane TM 80 and Montane TM 85, such as esters of fatty acids and sorbitol; compositions containing stearic acid ethoxylated with 135 mol of ethylene oxide and glycerol stearate sold under the name Simulsol TM 165, such as compositions containing glycerol stearate and stearic acid ethoxylated with 5 mol to 150 mol of ethylene oxide; mannitol esters; ethoxylated mannitol esters; sucrose esters; methyl glucoside esters; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl polyglycosides containing an aliphatic group having 14 to 36 carbon atoms, such as tetradecyl polyglycoside, hexyl decyl polyglycoside, octadecyl polyglycoside, hexyl decyl polyxyloside, octadecyl polyxyloside, eicosyl polyglycoside, dodecyl polyglycoside, 2-octyldodecyl polyxyloside, or 12-hydroxystearyl polyglycoside; compositions of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols containing 14 to 36 carbon atoms and alkyl polyglycosides as described above, such as products sold under the names Montanov TM 68, Montanov TM 14, Montanov TM 82, Montanov TM 202, Montanov TM S, Montanov TM WO18, Montanov TM L, Fluidanov TM 20X and Easynov TM and compositions sold under the name.

[0058] Examples of anionic surfactants that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include soaps such as glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl sulfate, sodium stearate or triethanolammonium stearate, and N-acylated amino acid derivatives that are chlorinated, for example, stearoyl glutamate.

[0059] Examples of cationic emulsifying surfactants that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include amine oxides, quaternium-82, and the surfactants described in Pamphlet of International Publication of Patent Application No. 96 / 00719, and mainly those whose fatty chains contain at least 16 carbon atoms.

[0060] Examples of opacifying agents and / or pearlescent agents that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include sodium palmitate, sodium stearate, sodium hydroxystearate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium stearate, magnesium hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, or fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0061] Examples of texturing agents that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include N-acylated amino acid derivatives such as lauroyl lysine sold under the name Aminohope TM LL, starch octenyl succinate sold under the name Dryflo TM and myristyl polyglucoside sold under the name Montanov TM 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite or mica.

[0062] Examples of deodorants that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include zinc salts such as alkali metal silicate, zinc sulfate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride or zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salt or cetylpyridinium salt; glycerol derivatives such as glycerol caprate, glycerol caprylate or polyglycerol caprate; 1,2-decanediol, 1,3-propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrin; metallic zeolite; Triclosan TM ; Complexes of aluminum chlorohydrate with glycols such as aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulfate, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum lactate, complex of aluminum chlorohydrate with propylene glycol, complex of aluminum dichlorohydrate with propylene glycol, complex of aluminum sesquichlorohydrate with propylene glycol, complex of aluminum chlorohydrate with polyethylene glycol, complex of aluminum dichlorohydrate with polyethylene glycol, or complex of aluminum sesquichlorohydrate with polyethylene glycol

[0063] Examples of oils that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include mineral oils such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, isoparaffin or white mineral oil; oils of animal origin such as squalene or squalane; vegetable oils such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, rose oil, pumpkin seed oil, matricaria oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, asparagus oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, beauty-leaf oil, sisymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula oil, oils derived from flowers or plants, ethoxylated vegetable oils; esters derived from lanolinic acid such as fatty acid esters, for example butyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, isopropyl lanolate or isocetyl lanolate, fatty acid monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides such as glycerol triheptanoate, alkyl benzoate, hydrogenated oils, polyolefins such as poly(α-olefin), poly(isobutene), synthetic isoalkanes such as isohexadecane or isododecane, or synthetic oils such as perfluorinated oils; silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, silicone modified with amines, silicone modified with fatty acids, silicone modified with alcohols, silicone modified with alcohols and fatty acids, silicone modified with polyether groups, epoxy modified silicone, silicone modified with fluoro groups, cyclic silicones and silicone modified with alkyl groups. In the present patent application, the term "oil" refers to compounds and / or mixtures of compounds that are insoluble in water at a temperature of 25 °C and have a liquid appearance.

[0064] Examples of waxes that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as defined above in the compositions (F) and (G) include beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, wood wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin wax; ozokerite, polyethylene wax, silicone wax, vegetable wax, fatty alcohols and fatty acids that are solid at ambient temperature, or glycerides that are solid at ambient temperature. In this patent application, the term "wax" refers to compounds and / or mixtures of compounds that are insoluble in water and have a solid appearance at temperatures of 45 °C or higher.

[0065] Examples of active ingredients that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as previously defined in the compositions (F) and (G) include vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (e.g., retinyl palmitate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (e.g., ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (e.g., tocopheryl acetate), vitamin B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); compounds showing a lightening or depigmenting effect on the skin, such as ω-undecylenoyl phenylalanine sold under the name Sepiwhite™ MSH, Sepicalm™ VG, glycerol monoester and / or diester of ω-undecylenoyl phenylalanine, ω-undecylenoyl dipeptide, arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone; compounds showing a calming effect, in particular Sepicalm™ S, allantoin and bisabolol; anti-inflammatory agents; compounds showing a moisturizing effect, such as urea, hydroxyurea, glycerol, polyglycerol, glycerol glucoside, diglycerol glucoside, polyglyceryl glucoside, xylityl glucoside; plant extracts rich in polyphenols, such as grape extract, pine extract, wine extract or olive extract; compounds showing a slimming or lipolytic effect, such as caffeine or its derivatives, Adiposlim™, Adipoless™, fucoxanthin; N-acylated proteins; N-acylated peptides, such as Matrixyl™; N-acylated amino acids; partial hydrolysates of N-acylated proteins; amino acids; peptides; complete hydrolysates of proteins; soybean extracts, such as Raffermine™; wheat extracts, such as Tensine™ or Gliadine™; plant extracts, such as plant extracts rich in tannins, plant extracts rich in isoflavones or plant extracts rich in terpenes; extracts of freshwater or marine algae; marine plant extracts; generally, marine extracts, such as coral; essential waxes; bacterial extracts; ceramides; phospholipids;Compounds exhibiting antibacterial or purifying effects, such as Lipacide™ C8G, Lipacide™ UG, Sepicontrol™ A5, Octopirox™ or Sensiva™ SC50; compounds exhibiting activation or stimulating properties, such as Physiogenyl™, panthenol and its derivatives, such as Sepicap™ MP; anti-aging active ingredients, such as Sepilift™ DPHP, Lipacide™ PVB, Sepivinol™, Sepivital™, Manoliva™, Phyto-Age™, Timecode™; Survicode™; anti-photoaging active ingredients; active ingredients that protect the undamaged state of the dermo-epidermal junction; active ingredients that increase the synthesis of components of the extracellular matrix, such as collagen, elastin or glycosaminoglycans; active ingredients that favorably act on chemical intercellular communication, such as cytokines, or active ingredients that favorably act on physical intercellular communication, such as integrins; active ingredients that cause a sensation of "heat generation" on the skin, such as activators of skin microcirculation (e.g., nicotinic acid derivatives) or products that cause a sensation of "coolness" on the skin (e.g., menthol and derivatives); active ingredients that improve skin microcirculation, such as venotonic agents; excretion active ingredients; active ingredients having the purpose of removing congestion, such as Ginkgo biloba, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, Ruscus, butcher's broom, Centella asiatica, Japanese butterbur, rosemary or willow extract;Agents for tanning or browning the skin, such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, mesoxalic aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, glyceraldehyde, alloxan or ninhydrin, plant extracts, such as extracts of red woods of the genus Pterocarpus and the genus Baphia, such as Pteropcarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, African padauk (Pterocarpus soyauxii), African quinine (Pterocarpus erinaceus), karin (Pterocarpus indicus) or camwood (Baphia nitida), as described, for example, in European Patent Application Publication No. 0971683; agents known for their action in promoting and / or accelerating the tanning and / or browning of human skin and / or their action in coloring human skin, such as products sold under the brand name Carrot Oil by Provital (INCI name: carrot (Daucus carota), sunflower (Helianthus annuus) sunflower oil) containing carotenoids (and more specifically, β-carotene and γ-carotene), carotenoids, vitamin E and vitamin K;Tyrosine and / or its derivatives, such as tyrosine and riboflavin (vitamin B), which are known for their effects on accelerating the tanning of human skin in combination with exposure to ultraviolet light, products sold under the brand name SunTan Accelerator (trademark) by Provital, a complex of tyrosine and tyrosinase sold under the brand name Zymo Tan Complex by Zymo Line, products sold under the brand name MelanoBronze (trademark) by Mibelle (INCI name: acetyl tyrosine, extract of chaste tree fruit (Vitex agnus-castus)), products sold under the brand name Unipertan VEG-24 / 242 / 2002 by Unipex (INCI name: butylene glycol and acetyl tyrosine and hydrolyzed vegetable protein and adenosine triphosphate), products sold under the brand name Try-Excell (trademark) by Sederma containing extract of bitter gourd seeds (or bitter gourd oil) (INCI name: oleoyl tyrosine and bitter gourd (Luffa cylindrica) (seed) oil and oleic acid), products sold under the brand name Actibronze (trademark) by Alban Muller (INCI name: hydrolyzed wheat protein and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate), products sold under the brand name Tyrostan (trademark) by Synerga (INCI name: potassium caproyl tyrosine), products sold under the brand name Tyrosinol by Synerga (INCI name: sorbitan isostearate, glyceryl oleate, caproyl tyrosine), products sold under the brand name InstaBronze (trademark) by Alban Muller (INCI name: dihydroxyacetone and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate), products sold under the brand name Tyrosilane by Exymol (INCI name: methylsilanol and acetyl tyrosine);Peptides known for their effects in activating melanogenesis, such as products sold under the brand name Bronzing SF peptide powder by Infinitec Activos (INCI name: dextran and octapeptide-5), products sold under the brand name Melitane (INCI name: glycerin, water, dextran, and acetyl hexapeptide-1) containing acetyl hexapeptide-1 known for its α-MSH agonist action, products sold under the brand name Melatimes Solutions™ by Lipotec (INCI name: butylene glycol, palmitoyl tripeptide-40), sugars and sugar derivatives, such as products sold under the brand name Tanositol™ by Provital (INCI name: inositol), products sold under the brand name Thalitan™ (or Phycosaccharide™ AG) by Codif International containing marine-derived oligosaccharides (glucuronic acid and mannuronic acid chelated with magnesium and manganese ions) (INCI name: water, hydrolyzed algin (Laminaria digitata), magnesium sulfate, and manganese sulfate), products sold under the brand name Melactiva™ by Alban Muller (INCI name: maltodextrin, Mucuna pruriens seed extract), flavonoid-rich compounds, such as products sold under the brand name Biotanning by Silab and known to be rich in lemon flavonoids (hesperidin type) (INCI name: hydrolyzed citrus Aurantium dulcis fruit extract);Agents intended for treating hair and / or body hair, for example agents intended to protect the melanocytes of the hair follicle against cytotoxic agents involved in the aging and / or apoptosis of said melanocytes, for example dopachrome tautomerase activity mimics selected from those described in the European patent application published as European Patent Application Publication No. 1515688 A2, synthetic SOD mimic molecules such as manganese complexes, antioxidant compounds such as cyclodextrin derivatives, silicic acid-containing compounds derived from ascorbic acid, lysine or arginine pyrrolidone carboxylate, combinations of mono- and diesters of cinnamic acid and vitamin C, and more generally, those mentioned in the European patent application published as European Patent Application Publication No. 1515688 A2 may be mentioned.;

[0066] Examples of antioxidants that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as previously defined in the compositions (F) and (G) include EDTA and its salts, citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylhydroxyanisole), BHT (butylhydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as Dissolvine (trademark) GL47S sold by AkzoNobel under the INCI name: disodium glutamate diacetate.

[0067] Examples of sunscreens that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as previously defined in the compositions (F) and (G) include all those that appear in the amended Cosmetics Directive 76 / 768 / EEC, Annex VII.

[0068] In the compositions (F) and (G), the organic sunscreen agents that can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as previously defined include the family of benzoic acid derivatives, such as para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), in particular, the monoglyceryl ester of PABA, the ethyl ester of N,N25-propoxy PABA, the ethyl ester of N,N-diethoxy PABA, the ethyl ester of N,N-dimethyl PABA, the methyl ester of N,N-dimethyl PABA, and the butyl ester of N,N-dimethyl PABA; the family of anthranilic acid derivatives, such as homomenthyl-N-acetylanthranilate; the family of salicylic acid derivatives, such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, and p-isopropanolphenyl salicylate; the family of cinnamic acid derivatives, such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropyl cinnamate, methyl 2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxypropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisoamyl cinnamate, p-methoxyoctyl cinnamate (p-methoxy 2-ethylhexyl cinnamate), p-methoxy-2-ethoxyethyl cinnamate, p-methoxycyclohexyl cinnamate, ethyl-α-cyano-β-phenyl cinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl-α-cyano-β-phenyl cinnamate, or glyceryl di-p-methoxymono-2-ethylhexanoyl cinnamate; the family of benzophenone derivatives, such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl 4'-phenylbenzophenone-2-5-carboxylate, 2-hydroxy-4-n-octyloxybenzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzophenone; 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene)-d,l-camphor, 3-(benzylidene)-d,l-camphor, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate;Urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate; family of sulfonic acid derivatives, for example, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; family of triazine derivatives, for example, hydroxyphenyltriazine, ethylhexyl oxyhydroxyphenyl)-4-methoxyphenyltriazine, 2,4,6-trianillino(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, 4,4-((6-(((1,1-dimethylethyl)amino)carbonyl)phenyl)amino)-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl diimino)bis(2-ethylhexyl)benzoate, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-t-octylphenyl)benzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl(methyphenyl))benzotriazole; dibenzazine; dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4''-t-butylbenzoylmethane; 5-(3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene)-3-pentan-2-one; family of diphenyl acrylate derivatives, for example, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate, ethyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate; family of polysiloxanes, for example, benzylidene siloxane malonate.;

[0069] The mineral sunscreen agents, also known as "mineral blocks", which can be combined with the self-reversible inverse latex as previously defined in the compositions (F) and (G), include titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow, red or black iron oxide, or chromium oxide. These mineral blocks may or may not be micronized, may or may not be subjected to surface treatment, and may optionally be presented in the form of an aqueous or oily pre-dispersion.

[0070] The present invention will now be described in more detail by the following examples.

Examples

[0071] 1.1 Preparation of an inverse latex (IL1) comprising a crosslinked copolymer of the sodium salt of 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid and partially chlorinated acrylic acid in sodium salt form containing ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid in trisodium salt form as a metal ion sequestering agent.

[0072] Place the following in a beaker with stirring: - 277 grams of deionized water, - 73.1 grams of pure acrylic acid, - 308 grams of 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, - 141 grams of a 48 wt% aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide, - 0.62 grams of a commercially available 35 wt% solution of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid in trisodium salt form (sold under the brand name Natriquest™ E30), - 0.128 grams of methylenebis(acrylamide), - 0.1 grams of copper(II) sulfate pentahydrate (i.e., in an amount of 160 mol ppm relative to the total number of moles of 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid).

[0073] Adjust the pH of the aqueous phase to 5.4 and make the solution up to 682 g with deionized water.

[0074] Prepare the organic phase simultaneously: - 220 grams of isohexadecane - 25 grams of Montane 80, - 0.2 grams of azobis(isobutyronitrile) (AIBN).

[0075] Gradually add the aqueous phase prepared above to the oily phase and then disperse using an Ultra-Turrax™ (trademark) rotor-stator mixer sold by IKA.

[0076] Next, the obtained emulsion is transferred to a jacketed reactor and nitrogen is sparged to remove oxygen. A solution containing 0.42 wt% cumene hydroperoxide in isododecane is introduced and stirring is continued while the emulsion is homogenized at room temperature for 5 minutes.

[0077] An aqueous solution of 0.1% sodium metabisulfite in 25 g of water is introduced using a pump with a flow rate of 0.5 ml / min to initiate the polymerization reaction. The temperature of the medium is raised until the plateau is reached. Then, the reaction medium is heated at 85 °C for 1 hour, then the whole medium is cooled to about 35 °C and 50 g of polysorbate 80 sold under the brand name Montanox™ 80 is added.

[0078] The self-reversible inverse latex thus obtained is evaluated by observation of its appearance at 25 °C, by its viscosity at 25 °C, by the viscosity of an aqueous gel containing 2 mass% of the self-reversible inverse latex, and by the viscosity of an aqueous gel at 3 mass% in the presence of 0.1 mass% sodium chloride.

[0079] Refer to this test (IL1).

[0080] The results obtained are shown in Table 1 below.

[0081] Preparation of an inverse latex (IL2) containing a crosslinked copolymer of sodium 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonate and partially chlorinated acrylic acid containing sodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetate as a metal ion sequestering agent. The same protocol as in the previous example is carried out using a 0.45 g solution containing 40 wt% sodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetate (sold under the brand name Versenex™ 80) instead of the solution of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid in trisodium salt form.

[0082] Refer to this test (IL2).

[0083] 1.3 Preparation of an inverse latex (IL3) containing a crosslinked copolymer of the sodium salt of 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid and partially chlorinated acrylic acid, containing tetrasodium N,N-diglutamate (Dissolvine GLDA47-S) as a sequestering agent. The same protocol as in Example 1.1 is carried out using a 2 g solution containing 47 wt% of tetrasodium N,N-diglutamate (sold under the brand name Dissolvine® GLDA47-S) instead of the solution of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid in trisodium salt form.

[0084] Refer to this test (IL3).

[0085] 1.4 Preparation of an inverse latex (IL4) containing a crosslinked copolymer of the sodium salt of 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid and partially chlorinated acrylic acid. The same protocol as in Example 1.1 is carried out without using a sequestering agent.

[0086] Refer to this test (IL4).

[0087] 1.5 Preparation of an inverse latex (IL5) containing a crosslinked copolymer of the sodium salt of 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid and partially chlorinated acrylic acid, containing ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid in trisodium salt form as a sequestering agent. While reducing the amount of the sequestering agent to 0.15 g of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid in trisodium salt form (sold under the brand name Natriquest® E30), the same protocol as in Example 1.1 is carried out.

[0088] Refer to this test (IL5).

[0089] 1.6 Preparation of an inverse latex (IL6) containing the sodium salt of 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid and ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid in the trisodium salt form as a sequestering agent, and a crosslinked copolymer with partially chlorinated acrylic acid without the addition of CuSO4. The copolymer was prepared according to the same protocol as in Example 1.1, without the addition of copper sulfate and thus without the addition of a Cu2+ salt.

[0090] Refer to this test (IL6).

[0091] [Table 1]

[0092] Test (IL4) shows the proven influence of the presence of metal cations on the progress of the polymerization process: in the presence of copper cations (in this case, at least 160 molar ppm of Cu2+ ions) and in the absence of a sequestering agent, the polymerization reaction does not occur. The introduction of sodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetate (sold under the brand name Versenex™ 80) in Test (IL2) enables the polymerization reaction to occur, resulting in a polymer having thickening properties in water and saline.

[0093] In comparison, the use of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid in its trisodium salt form (sold under the brand name Natriquest™ E30) in Test (IL1) under the same stoichiometric conditions as Test (IL2) enables the obtaining of a self-reversible inverse latex with polymerization kinetics similar to those observed for Test (IL2) and equal thickening performance. As shown by Test (IL5), the amount of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid in its trisodium salt form must be sufficient: introduced at a lower dosage (60 mol ppm), this is not able to complex all the cations, thereby resulting in the absence of initiation of polymerization. Furthermore, Test (IL6) without added copper cations shows that the method is carried out in the same manner: ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid in its pure trisodium salt form has no influence on the polymerization reaction.

[0094] Test (IL3) shows lower effectiveness of tetrasodium N,N-diglutamate (sold under the brand name Dissolvine™ GLDA47-S), despite its chelating ability (85 mg of Cu / 1 g of sequestering agent [1]) being higher than the chelating ability of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid in its trisodium salt form (18.4 mg of Cu / 1 g of sequestering agent [2]). Specifically, added prior to polymerization under the same stoichiometric conditions, tetrasodium N,N-diglutamate enables the initiation of the polymerization reaction, but its kinetics are slower than those in Test (IL2) and Test (IL1). The reaction time is almost twice as long. Similarly, the observed exothermicity is lower, suggesting that the monomer conversion is not complete. Therefore, the method was not carried out properly.

[0095] [1]: “Product Data Sheet” from Nouryon, Dissolvine GL-47-S of July 3, 2019 [2]: Technical sheet for Natriquest from Ineos, “Issue 3 / 2008”. [3]: "Technical Data Sheet; Versenex (trademark) 80" from Dow Chemical Company, "Form No. 113-01342-0812 AMS" published in August 2012.

[0096] II: Exemplary Cosmetic Formulations In the following formulations, the percentages are expressed as mass percentages per mass of the 100% formulation.

[0097] Example II-1: Care Cream Cyclomethicone: 10% Self-Reversible Inverse Latex (IL6): 0.8% Montanov (trademark) 68: 2% Stearyl Alcohol: 1% Stearyl Alcohol Stearate: 0.5% Preservative: 0.65% Lysine: 0.025% Xanthan Gum: 0.2% Glycerol: 3% Water: Q.S., 100%

[0098] Example II-2: Anti-Sun Milk Formula A Montanov (trademark) 68: 3.0% Sesame Oil: 5.0% Parsol (trademark) MCX: 5.0% λ-Carrageenan: 0.10% B Water: Q.S., 100% C Self-Reversible Inverse Latex (IL6): 0.80% D Perfume: Q.S. Preservative: Q.S. Procedure Emulsify B in A at 60 °C, then add C at approximately 60 °C, then add D at approximately 30 °C, and adjust the pH as necessary.

[0099] Example II-3: Body Milk Montanov (trademark) 202: 3.5% Lanol(trademark) 37T: 8.0% Solagum(trademark) L: 0.05% Water: in full amount, 100% Benzophenone-3: 2.0% Dimethicone 350 cPs: 0.05% Self-reversible inverse latex (IL6): 2.5% Preservative: 0.2% Fragrance: 0.4%

[0100] Example II-4: Makeup Removing Emulsion Containing Sweet Almond Oil Montanov(trademark) 202: 5% Sweet Almond Oil: 5% Water: in full amount, 100% Self-reversible inverse latex (IL6): 0.3% Glycerol: 5% Preservative: 0.2% Fragrance: 0.3%

[0101] Example II-5: Moisturizing Cream for Oily Skin Montanov(trademark) 68: 5% Cetyl Stearyl Octanoate: 8% Octyl Palmitate: 2% Water: in full amount, 100% Self-reversible inverse latex (IL6): 2.6% Micropearl(trademark) M100: 3.0% Mucopolysaccharide: 5% Sepicide(trademark) HB: 0.8% Fragrance: 0.3%

[0102] Example II-6: Makeup Removing Milk Montanov(trademark) 68: 3% Primol(trademark) 352: 8.0% Sweet Almond Oil: 2% Water: in full amount, 100% Self-reversible inverse latex (IL6): 0.8% Preservative: 0.2%

[0103] Example II-7: Anti-Sun Milk Montanov (trademark) L: 3.5% Lanol (trademark) 37T: 10.0% Parsol (trademark) MCX: 5.0% Eusolex (trademark) 4360: 2.0% Water: sufficient amount, 100% Self-reversible inverse latex (IL6): 1.8% Preservative: 0.2% Fragrance: 0.4%

[0104] Example II-8: Sunless Tanning Emulsion Lanol (trademark) 99: 15% Montanov (trademark) 68: 3.0% Parsol (trademark) MCX: 3.0% Water: sufficient amount, 100% Dihydroxyacetone: 5.0% Sodium dihydrogen phosphate: 0.2% Self-reversible inverse latex (IL6): 2.5% Fragrance: 0.3% Sepicide (trademark) HB: 0.8% Sodium hydroxide: sufficient amount, pH = 5

[0105] Example II-9: Care Cream Cyclomethicone: 10% Self-reversible inverse latex (IL6): 2.8% Montanov (trademark) 202: 4.5% Preservative: 0.65% Lysine: 0.025% Xanthan gum: 0.2% Glycerol: 3% Water: sufficient amount, 100%

[0106] Example II-10: Anti-Sun Cream Simulsol (trademark) 165: 3% Montanov (trademark) 68: 2% C12 - C15 Benzoate: 8% Pecosil (trademark) PS100: 2% Dimethicone: 2% Cyclomethicone: 5% Octyl para - methoxycinnamate: 6% Benzophenone - 3: 4% Titanium Dioxide: 8% Xanthan Gum: 0.2% Butylene Glycol: 5% Demineralized Water: sufficient amount, 100% Self - Reversible Inverse Latex (IL6): 1.5% Preservative, fragrance: sufficient amount

[0107] Example II - 11: Anti - sun and Self - tanning Gel Montanov (trademark) 68: 3.0% Glyceryl Triheptanoate: 10.0% Deepaline (trademark) PVB: 1.05% Self - Reversible Inverse Latex (IL6): 2.2% Water: sufficient amount, 100% Dihydroxyacetone: 5% Fragrance: 0.1% Sepicide (trademark) HB: 0.3% 30Sepicide (trademark) CI: 0.1% Parsol (trademark) MCX: 4.0%

Claims

1. A self-reversible inverse latex, a) at least one first monomer unit derived from 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in the form of the free acid or in a partially or fully chlorinated form; and - at least one second monomer unit derived from at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, 2-carboxyethylacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, 3-methyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]butanoic acid, wherein the carboxylic acid functional group of the monomer is in the form of the free acid or in a partially chlorinated or fully chlorinated form, at least one second monomer unit; and - at least one third monomer unit derived from a polyethylene crosslinking monomer (AR) comprising a crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) b) ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid in the trisodium salt form containing an aqueous phase, a self-reversible inverse latex.

2. The inverse latex according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous phase contains at least 0.01 mol% of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid in the trisodium salt form.

3. The inverse latex according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyethylene crosslinking monomer (AR) is selected from methylenebis(acrylamide), ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, diallyloxyacetic acid or its salt, or a mixture of these compounds.

4. The inverse latex according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the crosslinking monomer (AR) is methylenebis(acrylamide) or triallylamine.

5. The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte per 100 mol%: - monomer units derived from 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in the form of the free acid or in a partially or fully chlorinated form in a proportion of 20 mol% to 90 mol%; - monomer units derived from at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, 2-carboxyethylacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, 3-methyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]butanoic acid, in a proportion of -10 mol% to 80 mol%, wherein the carboxylic acid functional group of the monomer is in the form of a free acid or a partially or fully chlorinated form; and - monomer units derived from at least one polyethylene crosslinking monomer (AR) in a proportion greater than 0 mol% and equal to or less than 1 mol% The inverse latex according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized by comprising

6. The following steps: a) - a first monomer which is 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in the form of a free acid or a partially or fully chlorinated form; and - at least one second monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, 2-carboxyethylacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, 3-methyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]butanoic acid, wherein the carboxylic acid functional group of the monomer is in the form of a free acid or a partially or fully chlorinated form; and - at least one third monomer which is a polyethylene crosslinking monomer (AR); and ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid in the form of trisodium salt to prepare an aqueous phase; b) preparing an organic phase comprising at least one oil (O) and a water-in-oil emulsion system (S １ ) c) mixing the aqueous phase and the organic phase prepared in steps a) and b) and emulsifying to form an emulsion; d) inactivating the emulsion with nitrogen; e) initiating a polymerization reaction by introducing a free radical initiator into the inactivated emulsion f) A step of introducing an oil-in-water emulsion system (S ２ ) into the reaction medium resulting from step e) at a temperature of 30°C to 60°C and A method for preparing the inverse latex according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising

7. The method according to claim 6, characterized by comprising adding a solution selected from sodium hydroxide solution, potassium hydroxide solution, ammonium hydroxide solution, monoethanolamine salt solution and lysine salt solution to the aqueous phase prepared in step a) between steps a) and b).

8. In step e), the radical initiator is a redox pair that generates hydrogen sulfite (HSO ３ － ). The method according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that it is an ion).

9. The method according to any one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that, in step e), the polymerization co-initiator is introduced into the inactivated emulsion.

10. The method according to any one of claims 6 to 9, characterized in that, in step a), the pH of the aqueous phase is adjusted to 3.0 to 7.

0.

11. The method according to any one of claims 6 to 10, characterized in that the reaction medium derived from step e) is concentrated by distillation before step f) is carried out.

12. The following steps: a) a first monomer which is 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in free acid form or in partially or fully chlorinated form; and - at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, 2-carboxyethylacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, 3-methyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]butanoic acid, wherein the carboxylic acid functional group of the monomer is in free acid form or in partially chlorinated or fully chlorinated form, at least one second monomer; and - at least one third monomer which is a monomer for polyethylene crosslinking (AR); and ethylenediamine disuccinic acid in trisodium salt form preparing an aqueous phase containing; b) preparing an organic phase containing at least one oil (O) and a water-in-oil emulsion system (S1); c) mixing the aqueous phase and the organic phase prepared in steps a) and b) and emulsifying to form an emulsion; d) inactivating the emulsion with nitrogen; e) initiating a polymerization reaction by introducing a free radical initiator into the inactivated emulsion; f) introducing a water-in-oil emulsion system (S2) into the reaction medium resulting from step e) at a temperature of 30 ° C to 60 ° C; spray drying the reaction medium derived from step e) or f) A method for producing a powder of a thickener and / or an emulsifier and / or a stabilizer, comprising:

13. Use of the inverse latex according to any one of claims 1 to 5 as a thickener and / or an emulsifier and / or a stabilizer for topical cosmetic compositions.

14. A topical cosmetic composition (F), characterized in that it contains, as a thickener, 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass of the inverse latex according to any one of claims 1 to 5 per 100% of its total mass.

15. A topical pharmaceutical composition (G), characterized in that it contains, as a thickener, 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass of the inverse latex according to any one of claims 1 to 5 per 100% of its total mass.

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