Oil-based liquid cosmetic
A cosmetic formulation using dimethylpolysiloxane, N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide, and a compatibilizer addresses the issues of stickiness and color transfer in oily liquid cosmetics, achieving ease of application, high gloss, and stability.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2021078157
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-04-30
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-25
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-04-30
AI Technical Summary
Existing oily liquid cosmetics, such as lip gloss and lipstick, struggle with sticky feel during application, inadequate gloss, and poor resistance to color transfer to contact surfaces, despite using silicone oil and oil gelling agents like N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide.
A cosmetic formulation comprising dimethylpolysiloxane as the main base material, blended with a small amount of N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide and a compatibilizer to enhance spreadability, gloss, and color transfer resistance, using specific viscosity ranges and ratios.
The formulation results in a cosmetic that is easy to spread, maintains excellent gloss, and significantly reduces color transfer, with improved stability and uniformity.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to an oily liquid cosmetic that is easy to spread, has excellent gloss, is less likely to transfer color, and has excellent stability.
Background Art
[0002] In oily liquid cosmetics such as lip gloss, lipstick overcoat, and liquid lipstick, it is generally required that they do not feel sticky during application and spread smoothly with a light touch, and have a glossy and emollient feeling after application. In addition, it is required that the cosmetic applied to the skin or lips is less likely to cause color transfer (also referred to as "secondary adhesion") to the contact part of the object in contact, such as clothes or a cup (that is, it has the ability to suppress color transfer). To solve these problems, the blending of silicone oil has been studied. For example, a technique of combining a phenyl silicone, a liquid multi-branched ester compound with a specific structure, and an oily gelling agent (Patent Document 1), and a technique of combining a silicone oil with a specific viscosity, a dimer dilinoleic acid derivative, and a dextrin fatty acid ester (Patent Document 2) have been studied. However, although these techniques can suppress the sticky feeling and impart a glossy feeling, they have not yet reached a sufficiently satisfactory level with respect to the color transfer resistance to a cup or the like. In this specification, "color transfer suppression ability" and "color transfer resistance" are used in the same meaning.
[0003] As an oily base material for oily liquid cosmetics, it is known to use silicone oil in addition to hydrocarbon oil and vegetable oil. For example, Patent Document 3 discloses an oily hair cosmetic mainly based on dimethylpolysiloxane, which is a kind of silicone oil. On the other hand, N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide represented by N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide is known as an oil gelling agent, and since it can gel many liquid oils transparently, it has been widely studied in recent years in the field of stick-shaped oily solid cosmetics where aesthetic properties are particularly required. For example, Patent Document 4 describes a method of making a solid or semi-solid state by blending N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide in an external preparation for skin mainly based on methylphenylpolysiloxane, which is a kind of polysiloxane. This document states that the blending amount of N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide is 0.1 to 10%, and it is described that if the blending amount is less than 0.1%, it is difficult to exhibit the effects of the invention (lower left column on page 4). Also, Patent Document 5 describes a method of solidifying by blending 1 to 30% by mass of a gelling agent such as dibutyllauroylglutamide (that is, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide) in a branched higher alcohol (see paragraphs 0014 to 0015). Thus, most of the examples of using an oil gelling agent are for solidifying or semi-solidifying an oily base material, and there are few examples of blending an oil gelling agent in the field of oily liquid cosmetics that use the oily base material in a liquid state. In particular, there is no known example of blending N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide in a liquid cosmetic having dimethylpolysiloxane as the main component of the oily component.
Prior Art Documents
Patent Documents
[0004]
Patent Document 1
Patent Document 2
Patent Document 3
Patent Document 4
Patent Document 5
Summary of the Invention
Problems to be Solved by the Invention
[0005] The present invention has been completed under such background art, and its object is to provide an oily liquid cosmetic that is easy to spread, has excellent gloss, is less likely to transfer color, and also has excellent stability.
Means for Solving the Problems
[0006] As a result of intensive research to solve the above problems, the present inventors have found that in an oily liquid cosmetic, using dimethylpolysiloxane as the main base material, blending a small amount of N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide, and further blending an oil agent having excellent solubility with both of them is effective in improving the performance of the oily liquid cosmetic, and thus the present invention has been completed.
[0007] Thus, according to the present invention, there is provided an oily liquid cosmetic containing (A) dimethylpolysiloxane in a proportion of 60% by mass or more, (B) 0.01 to 1% by mass of N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide, and (C) 0.5 to 35% by mass of a compatibilizer for the above component (A) and the above component (B).
Effects of the Invention
[0008] The oily cosmetic of the present invention is easy to spread, has excellent gloss, is less likely to transfer color, and has excellent stability.
Modes for Carrying Out the Invention
[0009] In the present invention, the "liquid" of the liquid cosmetic means that it has fluidity at 25°C, and the liquid preferably has a viscosity value of 5 to 100,000 mPa·s as measured by a B-type rotational viscometer at 25°C. Among them, the viscosity value is more preferably in the range of 100 to 50,000 mPa·s, and particularly preferably 1,000 to 20,000 mPa·s. When it is in such a range, it becomes a liquid cosmetic excellent in usability such as ease of spreading and gloss. Since it is a liquid cosmetic, compared with solid cosmetics, it has the advantage of being easy to spread and the application surface is likely to be smooth, so it has excellent gloss.
[0010] The oily liquid cosmetic of the present invention contains (A) dimethylpolysiloxane as a main base material and contains a small amount of (B) N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide for viscosity adjustment.
[0011] The dimethylpolysiloxane of the component (A) used in the present invention preferably has a kinematic viscosity at 25°C of 200 to 20,000 mm 2 / s. More preferably, it has 500 to 10,000 mm 2 / s, and even more preferably 800 to 8,000 mm 2 / s. When the viscosity of dimethylpolysiloxane is excessively low, gloss and transfer resistance tend to decrease. Also, when it is excessively high, stickiness is likely to occur during application, and it becomes difficult to spread on the skin or lips.
[0012] Specific examples of commercially available products of dimethylpolysiloxane that can be used include KF-96 series manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. and SH200 series manufactured by Dow Corning Toray Co., Ltd., which are linear polymers in which the ends of the dimethylpolysiloxane structure are blocked with trimethylsiloxy groups. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more and adjusted to a predetermined viscosity as appropriate.
[0013] The content of dimethylpolysiloxane as the component (A) in the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is within the range of the main base material, but it is usually 60% by mass or more, preferably 70% by mass or more, more preferably 80% by mass or more. When the content of dimethylpolysiloxane of the component (A) is excessively small, the color bleeding resistance tends to decrease. In the present invention, "mass%" is the ratio to the whole cosmetic unless otherwise specified.
[0014] The N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide as the component (B) used in the present invention is well-known as an oil-based gelling agent in the cosmetic field. One hydrogen atom of the amino group of L-glutamic acid is substituted by an acyl group, and two carboxyl groups are converted into an alkylamide structure. The acyl group may contain an unsaturated bond, and may be linear or branched. The number of carbon atoms of the acyl group is usually 8 to 16, preferably 8 to 12. Specific examples of the acyl group include, for example, lauroyl group, 2-ethylhexanoyl group, etc. Further, the two alkyl groups forming the amide structure usually have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms. Specific examples thereof include, for example, ethyl group, n-propyl group, n-butyl group, n-hexyl group, etc. The two alkyl groups may be the same or different. Preferred specific examples of N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide include, for example, N-2-ethylhexanoyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, etc. is can be mentioned. The N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
[0015] The content of the component (B) in the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is 0.01 to 1% by mass, preferably 0.03 to 0.5% by mass, more preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by mass. When it is excessively large, the smoothness of application is lost, and the gloss after application also decreases. Also, when it is excessively small, sedimentation of the powder tends to occur in the system containing the powder.
[0016] (B) component N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide can use commercially available products. As an example of a commercially available product of N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, Gelanization Agent GP-1 manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc. can be mentioned. As an example of a commercially available product of N-2-ethylhexanoyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, Gelanization Agent EB-21 manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc. can be mentioned.
[0017] The (C) component in the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is a compatibilizer for the (A) component and the (B) component. Since the solubility of the (B) component used in the present invention in the (A) component is low, even when heated at 150 ° C, it is difficult to obtain a cosmetic having a uniform viscosity with only the (A) and (B) components. The (C) component can form a uniform liquid mixture without phase separation when preparing an equimolar mixture with the (A) component, and is an oil component that is liquid at 25 ° C and has a higher solubility of the (B) component than the (A) component. As the (C) component, those that can form a uniform liquid mixture at room temperature (25 ° C) when preparing a mixture having a mass ratio of the (A) component, the (B) component, and the (C) component of 94.9 / 0.1 / 5 [(A) / (B) / (C)] are preferred. More preferably, it is one that can form a uniform liquid mixture at room temperature (25 ° C) when preparing a mixture having a mass ratio of the (A) component, the (B) component, and the (C) component of 96.9 / 0.1 / 3 [(A) / (B) / (C)]. By using the (C) component, the dissolution temperature of the (B) component when manufacturing the cosmetic can be set low, and a moderately and uniformly thickened liquid mixture can be obtained.
[0018] (C) component is not particularly limited as long as it satisfies the above requirements. Specific examples thereof include hydrocarbon oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, ester oils, cyclic silicones and modified silicone oils having higher compatibility with hydrocarbon-based oils than the (A) component.
[0019] Examples of hydrocarbon oils that are liquid at 25°C include saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons having 12 to 40 carbon atoms. More specifically, examples include isododecane, isohexadecane, isoparaffin, polybutene, polyisobutylene, liquid paraffin, α-olefin oligomer, squalane, petrolatum, and the like.
[0020] Examples of higher fatty acids that are liquid at 25°C include saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids having 12 to 36 carbon atoms. More specifically, examples include isostearic acid, hexadecanoic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and the like.
[0021] Examples of higher alcohols that are liquid at 25°C include saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched higher alcohols having 12 to 36 carbon atoms. More specifically, examples include isostearyl alcohol, hexadecanol, octyldodecanol, and the like.
[0022] Examples of ester oils that are liquid at 25°C include esters composed of fatty acids having 3 to 24 carbon atoms and alcohols having 3 to 24 carbon atoms, esters composed of fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and polyhydric alcohols, esters composed of carbonic acid and alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the like. Specific examples include, as esters composed of fatty acids having 3 to 24 carbon atoms and alcohols having 3 to 24 carbon atoms, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, distearyl malate, isodecyl neopentanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isotridecyl myristate, isocetyl palmitate, isodecyl palmitate, isostearyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, jojoba oil; as esters composed of fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and polyhydric alcohols, glyceryl tri(caprylate / caprate), triethylhexanoin, diglyceryl triisostearate, decaglyceryl decaisostearate, diglyceryl tetraisostearate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, olive oil, castor oil, mink oil, macadamia nut oil; as esters composed of carbonic acid and alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate; and the like.
[0023] Examples of silicone oils other than component (A) include cyclic silicones, phenyl-modified silicones, methyltrimethicone, caprylyltrimethicone, and the like.
[0024] Among these, from the viewpoints of uniformly dissolving the N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide of component (B) and having good compatibility with component (A), ester oils and phenyl-modified silicones that are liquid at 25°C are preferably used. In particular, ester oils having a branched chain derived from branched higher fatty acids or branched higher alcohols such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, triethylhexanoin, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and methylphenylpolysiloxane are preferably used.
[0025] (C) The content of the compatibilizer is 0.5% by mass to 35% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 15% by mass, more preferably 3% by mass to 10% by mass. When the content of the compatibilizer is excessively low, it becomes difficult to dissolve component (B), and the uniformity of the formulation decreases. Conversely, when it is excessively high, the color fastness decreases.
[0026] The oily liquid cosmetic of the present invention can contain components used in ordinary cosmetics, for example, powders, dyes, solid oils, oily gelling agents other than component (B), oil-soluble resins, polyhydric alcohols, lower alcohols, ultraviolet absorbers, ultraviolet scattering agents, moisturizing agents, fragrances, antioxidants, preservatives, antifoaming agents, various extracts, etc. within a range that does not substantially impair the effects of the present invention.
[0027] The oily liquid cosmetic of the present invention can be prepared according to a conventional method. For example, all raw materials are mixed and heated to form a uniform melt, and then poured into various containers in a molten state, and cooled or allowed to cool to obtain an oily liquid cosmetic.
[0028] As uses of the oily liquid cosmetic of the present invention, it can be used for lipsticks, lip glosses, lipstick overcoats, lipstick bases, lip essences, etc. Among them, since a cosmetic film having excellent gloss, being less likely to transfer color, having good color retention, and excellent gloss persistence can be obtained, it is preferably used for lipsticks, lip glosses, and lipstick overcoats.
Examples
[0029] The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples. In addition, the blending amounts in the formulations in the following description are mass % with respect to the total amount unless otherwise specified.
[0030] Moreover, the evaluation methods for the oily liquid cosmetics in the following Examples and Comparative Examples are as follows.
[0031] Evaluation item A. Ease of spreading Evaluation item B. Gloss Evaluation item C. Color fastness (1) Evaluation item D. Color fastness (2) Evaluation item E. Uniformity of the formulation Evaluation item F. Stability
[0032] For each of the evaluation items A to E, a usage test was conducted by 10 professional panelists. The test was carried out by applying the sample to the panelists' lips, and the evaluation was performed by a five - level sensory evaluation based on the following scoring criteria (scores), and the determination was made according to the following evaluation criteria based on the average score of the panelists.
[0033] (Score) 5 points: Extremely excellent. 4 points: Excellent. 3 points: Ordinary. 2 points: Inferior. 1 point: Extremely inferior. (Evaluation criteria) S: Average score of 4.0 points or more A: Average score of 3.5 points or more and less than 4.0 points B: Average score of 2.5 points or more and less than 3.5 points C: Average score of less than 2.5 points
[0034] (Evaluation item D. Color fastness (2)) Regarding the lipstick overcoat, the evaluation of color fastness (2) described as evaluation item D was carried out. Specifically, after applying the lipstick to artificial skin (trade name: Bioskin Plate, manufactured by Vurax Co., Ltd.), about 2 mg / cm of the evaluation oily liquid cosmetic was applied. 2After applying at a ratio of , when a tissue paper was placed on it and gently pressed, the degree of color transfer of the lipstick to the tissue paper was confirmed. The evaluation criteria are as follows.
[0035] (Evaluation Criteria) S: No obvious color transfer was confirmed even at the third time. A: Slight color transfer was confirmed at the second time, and obvious color transfer was confirmed at the third time. B: Slight color transfer was confirmed at the first time, and obvious color transfer was confirmed at the second time. C: Obvious color transfer was confirmed at the first time.
[0036] (Evaluation Item A. Uniformity of the Preparation) The prepared preparation was gently spread on artificial skin (product name: Bioskinplate, manufactured by Buehlerax) with a spatula. When the whole preparation was a uniform viscous liquid, it was judged as S, and when a gel part and a liquid part were mixed, it was judged as C.
[0037] (Evaluation Item C. Stability) For the lipstick samples, the stability of Evaluation Item C was evaluated. The samples placed in glass bottles were stored in a constant temperature bath at 60 °C, and the sedimentation condition of the colorant and the pearl agent was confirmed when one week had passed. When no sedimentation was observed, it was judged as S, when slight sedimentation was confirmed, it was judged as A, when obvious sedimentation was confirmed, it was judged as B, and when complete sedimentation occurred, it was judged as C.
[0038] Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 (Lipstick Overcoat) The lipstick overcoat with the formulation shown in Table 1 was prepared according to the following manufacturing procedure, and the fluidity, uniformity of the preparation, smoothness of application, and color transfer resistance (1) were evaluated by the above methods. The evaluation results are as shown in Table 1.
[0039] (Manufacturing Procedure) (1) Components 1 to 14 shown in Table 1 were heated to about 135 °C and mixed uniformly. (2) While in the molten state, it was filled into a lipstick container with an applicator attached to the cap, and then allowed to cool to obtain the lipstick overcoat.
[0040]
Table 1
[0041] From the results in Table 1, the lipstick overcoats of the present invention (Examples 1 to 5) were excellent in stretchability, gloss, color transfer resistance, and formulation uniformity. In contrast, the lipstick overcoat of Comparative Example 1 in which polybutene, which is commonly used in conventional oil-based liquid cosmetics (for example, Patent Document 2), was replaced, was significantly inferior in color transfer resistance. Further, in Comparative Examples 2 and 4 containing a large amount of phenyl-modified silicone instead of the component (A), not only was the formulation uniformity impaired, but the color transfer resistance was also inferior. Regarding Comparative Example 3 in which the blending amount of the component (A) was less than 60% by mass, the color transfer resistance was significantly inferior.
[0042] Examples 6 and 7 and Comparative Examples 5 to 9 (Lip Gloss) Lip glosses having the formulations shown in Table 2 were prepared according to the above production procedure, and evaluated for stretchability, gloss, color transfer resistance (1), formulation uniformity, and stability by the above methods. The evaluation results are as shown in Table 2.
[0043]
Table 2
[0044] From the results in Table 2, the lip glosses of the present invention (Examples 6 and 7) were excellent in stretchability, gloss, color transfer resistance, formulation uniformity, and stability. In contrast, the lip gloss of Comparative Example 5 that did not contain the component (B) had inferior stability, and the lip gloss of Comparative Example 6 that did not contain the component (C) resulted in poor formulation uniformity because the component (B) was not completely dissolved. Further, the lip glosses of Comparative Examples 7 to 9 containing an oil-based gelling agent other than the component (B) resulted in significantly inferior stretchability.
[0045] Example 8 (Liquid Lipstick) The lipstick with the formulation shown in Table 3 was prepared according to the following manufacturing procedure, and the ease of spreading, gloss, color transfer resistance (1), formulation uniformity, and stability were evaluated by the above methods. The evaluation results are as shown in Table 3.
[0046] (Manufacturing Procedure) (1) Heat components 1 - 9 shown in Table 3 to approximately 130°C and mix uniformly. (2) After cooling to room temperature, fill a lip gloss container with an applicator attached to the cap to obtain a liquid lipstick.
[0047]
Table 3
[0048] From the results in Table 3, it was found that the liquid lipstick of Example 8 is excellent in ease of spreading, gloss, color transfer resistance, formulation uniformity, and stability.
Industrial Applicability
[0049] According to the present invention, an oily liquid cosmetic that is easy to spread, has excellent gloss, is resistant to color transfer, and has excellent stability is provided.
Claims
1. (A) An oil-based liquid cosmetic containing dimethylpolysiloxane as a main base material, wherein the proportion of the component (A) is 60% by mass or more, (B) N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide is 0.01 to 1% by mass, and (C) a compatibilizer for the above component (A) and the above component (B) is contained in a proportion of 0.5 to 35% by mass. The oil-based liquid cosmetic is characterized by this.
2. The oil-based liquid cosmetic according to Claim 1, wherein the acyl group of N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide has 8 to 16 carbon atoms and the alkyl group has 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
3. The oil-based liquid cosmetic according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the content of the component (A) is 70% by mass or more.
4. The oil-based liquid cosmetic according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the compatibilizer is an ester oil that is liquid at 25°C or a phenyl-modified silicone that is liquid at 25°C.
5. The kinematic viscosity at 25°C of the dimethylpolysiloxane is 200 to 20,000 mm 2 / s, and the oily liquid cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4.
6. The oil-based liquid cosmetic according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the viscosity measured by a B-type rotational viscometer at 25°C is 5 to 100,000 mPa·s.
7. The oil-based liquid cosmetic according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the content of the component (B) is 0.03 to 0.5% by mass.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
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