Method for dyeing keratinous substances with a premix of an amino silicone and a coloring compound
By applying a mixture of an amino-functionalized silicone polymer and a coloring compound with a low-water carrier to hair, the method addresses the need for durable hair dyeing with good fastness and feel, surpassing the limitations of existing dyeing technologies.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2022518365
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2019-09-23
- Filing Date
- 2020-08-31
- Publication Date
- 2025-08-01
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-08-31
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair dyeing methods, such as oxidative and direct dyes, fail to achieve long-lasting color retention and good washing fastness without damaging the hair, and there is a need for a technique that fixes pigments durably to the hair while maintaining a strong coloring result and good hair feel.
A method involving the application of two agents, where agent (a) contains an amino-functionalized silicone polymer and a coloring compound, mixed with a low-water cosmetic carrier preparation (agent b) before application, followed by rinsing, to dye keratin materials like hair.
This method results in a strong, wash-fast dyeing with improved hair feel, achieving a durable coloring result comparable to oxidative dyeing without using oxidative dye precursors.
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Figure 0007717056000001 
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The subject of the present application is a method for dyeing keratinous materials, in particular human hair, which comprises the application of at least two different agents (a) and (b). Agent (a) is a premix or concentrate comprising at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) and at least one coloring compound (a2). Agent (b) is a carrier preparation which contains at least one fatty component (b2) and is characterized by a low water content. Before application, the application mixture to be applied to the keratin material is prepared by mixing agent (a) and agent (b), applied to the keratinous material, allowed to act, and then rinsed off again.
[0002] A second subject of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit) for coloring keratinous materials, in particular human hair, comprising agents (a) and (b) separately packaged in two different containers.
[0003] A third subject of the present application is a ready-to-use colorant obtained by mixing two agents (a) and (b).
Background Art
[0004] Changing the shape and color of keratin fibers, especially hair, is an important area of modern cosmetics. To change the color of hair, experts know various coloring systems according to the requirements of coloring. For long-lasting strong dyeing with good fastness and good gray hair coverage, oxidation dyes are usually used. Such dyes usually contain oxidation dye precursors (so-called developing components) and coloring components, which, under the influence of an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, produce the actual dye with each other. Oxidation dyes are characterized by a very long-lasting dyeing result.
[0005] When using direct dyes, the already prepared dye diffuses from the colorant into the hair fibers. Compared with oxidative hair dyeing, the dyed products obtained using direct dyes have a shorter color retention time and better washability. Dyeing with direct dyes usually remains on the hair during 5 to 20 washings.
[0006] The use of coloring pigments is known for changing the color of hair and / or skin in a short period of time. Coloring pigments are understood to be insoluble coloring substances. Coloring pigments exist as small particles without dissolving in the dye composition and adhere only to the surface of hair fibers and / or skin from the outside. Therefore, coloring pigments can usually be removed without residue by washing several times with a detergent containing a surfactant. Various products of this type are commercially available under the name "hair mascara".
[0007] The advantage of hair mascara products is that coloring compounds such as pigments deposit only in film form on the surface of keratin fibers. Therefore, since the properties of the keratin fibers themselves do not change during the application of the product, the use of hair mascara products is particularly unlikely to damage the hair. If the user wants to return to the original hair color, the dye can be quickly and completely removed from the keratin fibers without damaging the fibers or changing the original hair color. Therefore, the development of pigment-based keratin colorants fully follows this trend.
[0008] However, as before, optimization of this dyeing method is still necessary, and there is still a need to improve the color intensity and the feel of the hair or the grip of the keratin fibers. Summary of the Invention Problems to be Solved by the Invention
[0009] The problem of the present invention is to provide, if possible, a dyeing method having fastness comparable to oxidative dyeing. The washing fastness must be remarkable, but the use of oxidative dye precursors commonly used for this purpose must be avoided. There is a need for a technique that enables coloring compounds (especially pigments) known from the prior art to be fixed to the hair in a very durable manner. When an agent is used in the dyeing process, a strong dyeing result with excellent fastness must be obtained. A particular focus of the problem is to achieve a strong coloring result and a good hair feel at the same time. Means for Solving the Problems
[0010] Surprisingly, it has been found that the above problems can be excellently solved by dyeing keratin materials, especially hair, using a procedure of applying at least two agents (a) and (b) to the keratin material (hair). Here, agent (a) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) and at least one coloring compound (a2). Agent (a) is preferably low-water or anhydrous and is in the form of a premix or concentrate containing components (a1) and (a2) as main components. Before use, agent (a) is mixed with a cosmetic carrier preparation which contains at least one fatty component (b2) and is in the form of agent (b) characterized by a low water content. Then, the application mixture prepared by mixing agent (a) and agent (b) is applied to the keratin material, allowed to act, and then rinsed again with water.
[0011] The first object of the present invention is the following steps: (1) Providing agent (a) containing (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and (a2) at least one coloring compound ; (2) Based on the total weight of agent (b), (b1) 0 to 50% by weight of water and (b2) at least one fatty component ; (3) Mixing agent (a) and agent (b) to prepare an application mixture; (4) Applying the application mixture prepared in step (3) to the keratin material; (5) Exposing the keratin material to the application mixture applied in step (4); and (6) Rinsing the application mixture away with water, which is a method for dyeing keratin materials, especially human hair.
[0012] In the research leading to the present invention, it has been shown that when agent (a) is provided in the form of the above-mentioned premix or concentrate (this premix (a) is only mixed with the carrier preparation (b) immediately before application), a particularly strong staining result is obtained on keratinous substances. Surprisingly, the application mixture obtained by mixing the two agents (a) and (b) immediately before application gives a stronger staining result compared to a preparation that is identical except that it initially contains all the components of the two agents (a) and (b). Furthermore, it has been found that a reduction in the water content in agent (b) leads to an improvement in the grip feeling of keratin fibers.
Mode for Carrying Out the Invention
[0013] <Keratinous substance> Keratinous substances include hair, skin, nails (e.g., fingernails and / or toenails). Wool, fur, and feathers are also included in the definition of keratinous substances.
[0014] Preferably, keratinous substances are understood to be human hair, human skin, and human nails (in particular, fingernails and toenails). Keratinous substances are understood to be human hair.
[0015] <Agent (a)> In step (1) of the method according to the invention, agent (a) is provided. For example, agent (a) can be present in a packaging unit or container, thereby enabling use by the user. The container can be, for example, a sachet, bottle, can, jar, or other container suitable for cosmetic preparations.
[0016] Agent (a) is characterized by the contents of the essential components (a1) and (a2) of the present invention.
[0017] <Amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) in agent (a)> As the first component (a1) essential to the present invention, agent (a) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer. The amino-functionalized silicone polymer may also be abbreviated as aminosilicone or amodimethicone.
[0018] The silicone polymer is a macromolecule having a molecular weight of at least 500 g / mol, preferably at least 1000 g / mol, more preferably at least 2500 g / mol, and particularly preferably at least 5000 g / mol, and contains repeating organic units.
[0019] The maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (the number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size, and is partly determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present invention, the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer is 10 7 g / mol or less, preferably 10 6 g / mol or less, and particularly preferably 10 5 g / mol or less.
[0020] The silicone polymer contains many Si-O repeating units, and the Si atoms may have organic groups, such as alkyl groups or substituted alkyl groups. Therefore, the silicone polymer is also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane.
[0021] Depending on its high molecular weight, the silicone polymer is based on more than 10 Si-O repeating units, preferably more than 50 Si-O repeating units, more preferably more than 100 Si-O repeating units, and most preferably more than 500 Si-O repeating units.
[0022] The amino-functionalized silicone polymer is understood to be a functionalized silicone containing at least one structural unit having an amino group. Preferably, the amino-functionalized silicone polymer has a plurality of structural units each having at least one amino group. The amino groups are understood to mean primary amino groups, secondary amino groups, and tertiary amino groups. All of these amino groups can be protonated in an acidic environment and exist in a cationic form.
[0023] Basically, when the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) has at least one primary amino group, at least one secondary amino group and / or at least one tertiary amino group, beneficial effects are obtained by the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1). However, in the agent (a), when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) having at least one secondary amino group is used, the most wash-fast and strong dyeing was observed.
[0024] In a very particularly preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) having at least one secondary amino group.
[0025] One or more secondary amino groups may be present at various positions in the amino-functionalized silicone polymer. In the formula (Si-amino): Particularly beneficial results were seen when using an amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) having at least one, preferably a plurality of, structural units represented by TIFF0007717056000001.tif7674.
[0026] In the structural unit represented by the formula (Si-amino), the abbreviations ALK1 and ALK2 are independently linear or branched divalent C1-C 20 represent an alkylene group.
[0027] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) comprising at least one structural unit represented by the formula (Si-amino): TIFF0007717056000002.tif7674 [wherein ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched divalent C1-C 20 represent an alkylene group] and comprises at least one.
[0028] The positions indicated by an asterisk (*) represent the attachment to another structural unit of the silicone polymer. For example, the silicon atom adjacent to the asterisk may be attached to another oxygen atom, and the oxygen atom adjacent to the asterisk may be attached to another silicon atom or even a C1-C6 alkyl group.
[0029] Alternatively, a divalent C1-C 20 The alkylene group is sometimes referred to as a divalent C1-C 20 alkylene group, which means that each of the ALK1 and ALK2 groups can form two bonds.
[0030] In the case of ALK1, one bond occurs from the silicon atom to the ALK1 group, and a second bond exists between ALK1 and the secondary amino group.
[0031] In the case of ALK2, one bond exists from the secondary amino group to ALK2, and a second bond exists between ALK2 and the primary amino group.
[0032] Straight-chain divalent C1-C 20 Examples of alkylene groups include a methylene group (-CH2-), an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-), and a butylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-). The propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) is particularly preferred. From the chain length of three carbon atoms, the divalent alkylene group may be branched. Branched-chain divalent C3- 20 Examples of alkylene groups are (-CH2-CH(CH3)-) and (-CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-).
[0033] In another particularly preferred embodiment, the structural unit represented by the formula (Si-amino) represents a repeating unit in the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1), so the silicone polymer contains a plurality of structural units represented by the formula (Si-amino).
[0034] Particularly suitable amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) having at least one secondary amino group are listed below.
[0035] In the method of the present invention, the structural unit represented by formula (Si-I) and the structural unit represented by formula (Si-II): When at least one agent (a) containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) containing TIFF0007717056000003.tif80142 is applied to a keratinous substance, a dyeing having good washing fastness is obtained.
[0036] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is such that the agent (a) comprises a structural unit represented by formula (Si-I) and a structural unit represented by formula (Si-II): TIFF0007717056000004.tif80142 and is characterized by containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1).
[0037] The corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer having the structural unit represented by formula (Si-I) and the structural unit represented by formula (Si-II) is, for example, the commercially available DC 2-8566 or Dowsil 2-8566 Amino Fluid, which is commercially available from Dow Chemical and has the name "Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-siloxane" and the CAS number 106842-44-8.
[0038] In another preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is formula (Si-III): TIFF0007717056000005.tif51111 [wherein, · m and n represent numbers selected such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, · n is a number in the range of 0 to 999, and m is a number in the range of 1 to 1000, · R1, R2 and R3 are the same or different and represent a hydroxy group or a C 1-4 alkoxy group, · where at least one of R1 to R3 represents a hydroxy group] Agent (a) comprising at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) represented by the formula is applied to a keratinous substance.
[0039] Another preferred method of the present invention is the formula (Si-IV): TIFF0007717056000006.tif48111[wherein · p and q represent numbers selected such that the sum (p + q) is in the range of 1 to 1000, · p is a number in the range of 0 to 999, and q is a number in the range of 1 to 1000, · R1 and R2 are different and represent a hydroxy group or a C 1-4 alkoxy group, and at least one of R1 to R2 represents a hydroxy group] Agent (a) comprising at least the amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) represented by the formula is applied to a keratinous substance.
[0040] The silicone represented by the formula (Si-III) and the silicone represented by the formula (Si-IV) differ in the groups at the Si atom having a nitrogen-containing group. In the formula (Si-III), R2 represents a hydroxy group or a C 1-4 alkoxy group, while the group in the formula (Si-IV) is a methyl group. The individual Si groups with subscripts m and n or p and q may not exist as blocks, but rather the individual units may be statistically distributed. That is, in the formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV), not necessarily all R1-Si(CH3)2 groups are bonded to the -[O-Si(CH3)2] group.
[0041] Also, the formula (Si-V): TIFF0007717056000007.tif54114[wherein, A represents the group -OH, -O-Si(CH3)3, -O-Si(CH3)2OH, -O-Si(CH3)2OCH3, D represents the group -H, -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3, b, n, and c represent integers from 0 to 1000, More specifically ·n > 0 and b + c > 0 ·At least one of the conditions A = -OH or D = -H is satisfied It has also been found that the method of the present invention for applying the agent (a) containing at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) represented by to keratin fibers is particularly effective with respect to the desired effect.
[0042] In the above formula (Si-V), the individual siloxane units having the subscripts b, c, and n are statistically distributed, that is, they do not necessarily have to be block copolymers.
[0043] The agent (a) has the formula (Si-VI): TIFF0007717056000008.tif1092[wherein R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon group having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is the general formula -R 1 HZ [where R 1 is a divalent linking group to which a group Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms, or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms and hydrogen are bonded, and Z is an organic amino functional group containing at least one amino functional group]; a is a number in the range of about 0 to about 2, b is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, a + b is 3 or less, c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, x is a number from 1 to about 2,000, preferably about 3 to about 50, most preferably about 3 to about 25, y is a number in the range of about 20 to about 10,000, preferably about 125 to about 10,000, most preferably about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy] may further contain one or more various amino-functionalized silicone polymers represented by.
[0044] Non-limiting examples of the group represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl; alkenyl groups such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl groups such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl; phenyl group, benzyl group; halohydrocarbon groups such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl; and sulfur-containing groups such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl. Preferably, R is an alkyl group having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably, R is methyl. R 1 Examples of include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH2CH2SCH2CH2-, -CH2CH2OCH2-, -OCH2CH2-, -OCH2CH2CH2-, -CH2CH(CH3)C(O)OCH2-, -(CH2)3CC(O)OCH2CH2-, -C6H4C6H4-, -C6H4CH2C6H4-; and -(CH2)3C(O)SCH2CH2-.
[0045] Z is an organic amino functional group containing at least one amino functional group. One formula for Z is NH(CH2) z NH2 [where z is 1 or more]. Another formula for Z is -NH(CH2) z (CH2) zz NH [where both z and zz are independently 1 or more], and this structure includes a diamino ring structure such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably the -NHCH2CH2NH2 group. Another formula for Z is -N(CH2) z (CH2) zz NX2 or -NX2 [where each X of X2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and C 1-12 alkyl group, and zz is 0].
[0046] Q is most preferably a polar amino functional group represented by the formula -CH2CH2CH2NHCH2CH2NH2. In the formula, a takes a value in the range of about 0 to about 2, b takes a value in the range of about 2 to about 3, a + b is 3 or less, and c takes a value in the range of about 1 to about 3. R a Q b SiO (4-a-b) / 2 units and R c SiO (4-c) / 2 The molar ratio of the units is in the range of about 1:2 to 1:65, preferably in the range of about 1:5 to about 1:65, and most preferably in the range of about 1:15 to about 1:20. When using one or more silicones represented by the above formula, the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone mixture.
[0047] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is of the formula (Si-VII): TIFF0007717056000009.tif11142[wherein, · G is -H, phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH3, -CH3, -O-CH2CH3, -CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3, -O-CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)2, -O-CH2CH2CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -O-CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -O-C(CH3)3, -C(CH3)3; · a is a number between 0 and 3, particularly representing 0, · b is a number between 0 and 1, particularly representing 1, · m and n are numbers such that the sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, n preferably takes values of 0 to 1999 and 49 to 149, and m preferably takes values of 1 to 2000, 1 to 10, · R' is · Q-N(R'')-CH2-CH2-N(R'')2 · Q-N(R'')2 · Q-N + (R'')3A - ·Q-N + H(R'')2A - ·Q-N + H2(R'')A - ·Q-N(R'')-CH2-CH2-N + R''H2A - 〔wherein, each Q is a chemical bond, -CH2-, -CH2-CH2-, -CH2CH2CH2-, C(CH3)2-, -CH2CH2CH2CH2-, -CH2C(CH3)2-, -CH(CH3)CH2CH2-; R'' is -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, CH2-CH(CH3)Ph, C 1-20 an alkyl group, preferably the same or different groups selected from the group consisting of -CH3, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH2CH2H3, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -C(CH3)3; A represents an anion preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate〕 is a monovalent group selected from] A method characterized by applying an agent (a) containing an amino-functional silicone polymer represented by
[0048] In another preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is of the formula (Si-VIIa): TIFF0007717056000010.tif21123[wherein, m and n are numbers such that the sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, n preferably takes values from 0 to 1999 and 49 to 149, and m preferably takes values from 1 to 2000, 1 to 10] A method characterized by applying an agent (a) containing at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) represented by
[0049] In INCI names, these silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
[0050] In another preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is of formula (Si-VIIb): TIFF0007717056000011.tif21111[wherein R represents an -OH, -O-CH3 or -CH3 group, m, n1 and n2 are numbers such that the sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, and the sum (n1 + n2) preferably takes values of 0 to 1999 and 49 to 149, and m preferably takes values of 1 to 2000, 1 to 10] characterized by applying an agent (a) comprising at least one amino-functional silicone polymer represented by
[0051] In INCI names, these amino-functionalized silicone polymers are referred to as amodimethicone.
[0052] Regardless of which amino-functional silicone is used, agent (a) according to the present invention comprising an amino-functional silicone polymer with an amine value of more than 0.25 meq / g, preferably more than 0.3 meq / g, more preferably more than 0.4 meq / g is preferred. The amine value represents the milliequivalent of amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. The amine value can be measured by titration and is expressed in units of mgKOH / g.
[0053] Also, an agent (a) containing a specific 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymer (a1) is also suitable for use in the method of the present invention. This amino-functionalized silicone polymer contains a structural unit represented by formula (Si-VIII) and a structural unit represented by formula (Si-IX). TIFF0007717056000012.tif49139
[0054] The corresponding 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymer is shown below. A very particularly preferred amino-functionalized silicone polymer is known under the name amodimethicone / morpholinomethylsilsesquioxane copolymer and is commercially available from Wacker in the form of the raw material Belsil ADM 8301 E.
[0055] As 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicones, for example, the formulas (Si-VIII), (Si-IX) and (Si-X): TIFF0007717056000013.tif63145[wherein, R1 is -CH3, -OH, -OCH3, -O-CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3 or -O-CH(CH3)2, R2 is -CH3, -OH or -OCH3] Silicones having structural units represented by can be used.
[0056] Particularly preferred agent (a) in the present invention has the formula (Si-XI): TIFF0007717056000014.tif69161[wherein, R1 is -CH3, -OH, -OCH3, -O-CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3 or -O-CH(CH3)2, R2 is -CH3, -OH or -OCH3, B represents the group -OH, -O-Si(CH3)3, -O-Si(CH3)2OH, -O-Si(CH3)2OCH3, D represents the group -H, -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3, a, b and c independently represent integers from 0 to 1000 under the condition that a + b + c > 0, m and n independently of each other represent integers from 1 to 1000, provided that, · At least one of the conditions B = -OH or D = -H is satisfied, · The units a, b, c, m and n are distributed statistically or in blocks in the molecule] and contains at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone represented by.
[0057] In the structural formula (Si-XI), it is intended to indicate that the siloxane groups n and m do not necessarily have to be directly bonded to the terminal groups B or D respectively. Rather, in the preferred formula (Si-VI), a > 0 or b > 0, and in the particularly preferred formula (Si-VI), a > 0 and c > 0, that is, the terminal groups B or D are preferably bonded to a dimethylsiloxy group. Also, in the formula (Si-VI), the siloxane units a, b, c, m, and n are preferably statistically distributed.
[0058] The silicone represented by the formula (Si-VI) used according to the present invention may be trimethylsilyl-terminated (D or B = -Si(CH3)3), but may also be dimethylsilyl hydroxy-terminated at both ends, or may be dimethylsilyl hydroxy-terminated at one end and dimethylsilyl methoxy-terminated at the other end. Particularly preferred silicones in the present invention are, for each relevant B = -O-Si(CH3)2OH and D = -Si(CH3)3 B = -O-Si(CH3)2OH and D = -Si(CH3)2OH B = -O-Si(CH3)2OH and D = -Si(CH3)2OCH3 B = -O-Si(CH3)3 and D = -Si(CH3)2OH B = -O-Si(CH3)2OCH3 and D = -Si(CH3)2OH selected from silicones that are. These silicones bring about a significant improvement in the hair properties of the hair treated with the agent of the present invention and significantly improved protection in the oxidation treatment.
[0059] The agent (a) used in the method according to the present invention is a premix or concentrate containing an amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) as the main component.
[0060] When agent (a) contains one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 4.0 to 70.0% by weight, more preferably 6.0 to 50.0% by weight, and most preferably 8.0 to 20.0% by weight based on the total weight of agent (a), particularly good dyeing results are obtained.
[0061] In the range of another particularly preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that agent (a) contains one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 4.0 to 70.0% by weight, more preferably 6.0 to 50.0% by weight, and most preferably 8.0 to 20.0% by weight based on the total weight of agent (a).
[0062] <Coloring compound (a2) in agent (a)> As a second component essential to the present invention, agent (a) used in the method of the present invention contains at least one coloring compound (a2).
[0063] For the purposes of the present invention, a coloring compound is a substance capable of imparting color to keratinous substances. Particularly suitable coloring agent compounds can be selected from the group consisting of pigments, direct dyes, photochromic dyes, and thermochromic dyes.
[0064] In a more preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that agent (a) contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group consisting of pigments, direct dyes, photochromic dyes, and thermochromic dyes.
[0065] A pigment in the meaning of the present invention is a coloring compound having a solubility in water at 25 °C of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, more preferably less than 0.05 g / L. The solubility in water can be measured, for example, by the following method: Weigh 0.5 g of the pigment into a beaker. Add a magnetic stir bar. Then add 1 L of distilled water. Heat this mixture at 25 °C for 1 hour while stirring with a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are visible in the mixture even after this time has elapsed, the solubility of the pigment is less than 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be visually evaluated due to the high intensity of the finely dispersed pigment, filter the mixture. If undissolved pigment remains on the filter paper, the solubility of that pigment is less than 0.5 g / L.
[0066] Suitable coloring pigments may be of inorganic origin and / or organic origin.
[0067] In a preferred embodiment, the agent (a) in the present invention is characterized by comprising at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from the group consisting of inorganic pigments and / or organic pigments.
[0068] Preferred coloring pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic coloring pigments of natural origin can be prepared, for example, from chalk, loess, amber, green earth, calcined terra di siena or graphite. Also, black pigments such as black iron oxide, colored pigments such as ultramarine or red iron oxide, and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used as inorganic coloring pigments.
[0069] Colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides and metal oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfates, double metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates and / or molybdates are particularly suitable. Preferred coloring pigments are iron oxide black (CI77499), iron oxide yellow (CI77492), iron oxide red and brown (CI77491), manganese violet (CI77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminosilicate, CI 77007, pigment blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), Prussian blue (iron ferrocyanide, CI77510) and / or carmine (cochineal).
[0070] In the present invention, colored nacreous pigments are also particularly preferred coloring pigments. These are usually based on mica and / or mica, and may be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the phyllosilicates. The most important representative examples of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, soda mica, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce nacreous pigments combined with metal oxides, mica such as muscovite or phlogopite is coated with metal oxides.
[0071] As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxides can be used as a nacreous pigment. Particularly preferred nacreous pigments are those based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and coated with one or more of the above-mentioned metal oxides. By varying the thickness of the layer of metal oxide, the color of each pigment can be changed.
[0072] In another preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that agent (a) comprises at least one coloring compound (a2) selected preferably from the group of inorganic pigments consisting of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfates, double metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments, and / or from the group of colored mica or mica-based pigments coated with at least one metal oxide and / or metal oxychloride.
[0073] In another preferred embodiment, the agent (a) in the present invention comprises at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from the group of pigments comprising mica or mica-based pigments reacted with one or more metal oxides selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), iron black oxide (CI 77499), iron yellow oxide (CI 77492), iron red and / or brown oxides (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminosilicate, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or ultramarine blue (iron ferrocyanide, CI77510).
[0074] Examples of particularly suitable coloring pigments are commercially available under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® from Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors, and Sunshine® from Sunstar.
[0075] Particularly preferred coloring pigments with the trade name Colorona® are, for example, the following. Colorona Copper, Merck, mica, CI77491 (iron oxide) Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI77491 (iron oxide), alumina Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, mica, CI77499 (iron oxide), CI77891 (titanium dioxide) Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (titanium dioxide), mica, CI75470 (carmine) Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, mica, CI77891 (titanium dioxide), CI77491 (iron oxide) Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, mica, titanium dioxide, iron ferrocyanide Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI77491 (iron oxide), mica Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, mica, CI77499 (iron oxide), CI77891 (titanium dioxide) Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI77499 (iron oxide), mica Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, mica, CI77491 (iron oxide), CI77891 (titanium dioxide), CI77510 (iron ferrocyanide) Colorona Red Brown, Merck, mica, CI77491 (iron oxide), CI77891 (titanium dioxide) Colorona Russet, Merck, CI77491 (titanium dioxide), mica, CI77891 (iron oxide) Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, mica, titanium dioxide (CI77891), D&C RED NO.30 (CI73360) Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI77891 (titanium dioxide), mica, CI77288 (chromium oxide green) Colorona Light Blue, Merck, mica, titanium dioxide (CI77891), iron ferrocyanide (CI77510) Colorona Red Gold, Merck, mica, CI77891 (titanium dioxide), CI77491 (iron oxide) Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, mica, titanium dioxide (CI77891), iron oxide (CI77491) Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, mica, titanium dioxide, carmine Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, mica, CI77499 (iron oxide) Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, mica, CI77491 (iron oxide) Colorona Bronze, Merck, mica, CI77491 (iron oxide) Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, mica, CI77491 (iron oxide) Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, mica, CI77891 (titanium dioxide), CI77491 (iron oxide) Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI77491 (iron oxide), mica Colorona Sienna, Merck, mica, CI77491 (iron oxide) Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI77891 (titanium dioxide), silica, CI77491 (iron oxide), tin oxide Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, mica, CI77891, CI77491 (EU) Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI77499 (iron oxide), Mica, CI77891 (titanium dioxide) Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI77891 (titanium dioxide), CI77491 (iron oxide) Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, mica, CI77499 (iron oxide)
[0076] Other particularly preferred colored pigments with the trade name Xirona (registered trademark) are, for example, the following. Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, silica, CI77891 (titanium dioxide), tin oxide Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI77891 (titanium dioxide), silica, tin oxide Xirona Kiwi Rose, Merck, silica, CI77891 (titanium dioxide), tin oxide Xirona Magic Mauve, Merck, silica, CI77891 (titanium dioxide), tin oxide
[0077] Also, other particularly preferred coloring pigments with the trade name Unipure® are, for example, the following. Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient, CI77491 (iron oxide), silica Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI77499 (iron oxide), silica Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI77492 (iron oxide), silica
[0078] In another embodiment, agent (a) in the present invention may comprise one or more coloring compounds (b3) from the group consisting of organic pigments.
[0079] The organic pigments in the present invention may be correspondingly insoluble organic dyes or color lakes, which may be selected from the group consisting of, for example, nitroso, nitro - azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindolinone, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketo - pyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine and / or triarylmethane compounds.
[0080] Examples of particularly suitable organic pigments are carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with Color Indexes Cl42090, CI69800, CI69825, CI73000, CI74100, CI74160, yellow pigments with Color Indexes CI11680, CI11710, CI15985, CI19140, CI20040, CI21100, CI21108, CI47000, CI47005, green pigments with Color Indexes CI61565, CI61570, CI74260, orange pigments with Color Indexes CI11725, CI15510, CI45370, CI71105, and red pigments with Color Indexes CI12085, CI12120, CI12370, CI12420, CI12490, CI14700, CI15525, CI15580, CI15620, CI15630, CI15800, CI15850, CI15865, CI15880, CI17200, CI26100, CI45380, CI45410, CI58000, CI73360, CI73915 and / or CI75470.
[0081] In another particularly preferred embodiment, in the method of the present invention, the agent (a) is selected preferably from the group of organic pigments consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with Color Indexes of Cl42090, CI69800, CI69825, CI73000, CI74100, CI74160, yellow pigments with Color Indexes of CI11680, CI11710, CI15985, CI19140, CI20040, CI21100, CI21108, CI47000, CI47005, green pigments with Color Indexes of CI61565, CI61570, CI74260, orange pigments with Color Indexes of CI11725, CI15510, CI45370, CI71105, and red pigments with Color Indexes of CI12085, CI12120, CI12370, CI12420, CI12490, CI14700, CI15525, CI15580, CI15620, CI15630, CI15800, CI15850, CI15865, CI15880, CI17200, CI26100, CI45380, CI45410, CI58000, CI73360, CI73915 and / or CI75470, and is characterized by containing at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of organic pigments thus selected.
[0082] The organic pigment may be a color paint. In the context of the present invention, the term "color lacquer" means particles comprising a layer of absorbed dye, and the units of particles and dye are insoluble under the above conditions. The particles can be, for example, inorganic substances, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or aluminum.
[0083] For example, alizarin color varnish can be used.
[0084] Due to the excellent stability against light and temperature, it is particularly preferred to use the above pigments in the agent (a) of the method of the present invention. Also, it is preferred that the pigments used have a specific particle size. Thus, in the present invention, at least one pigment has an average particle size D of 1.0 to 50 μm, preferably 5.0 to 45 μm, preferably 10 to 40 μm, 14 to 30 μm.50 It is advantageous to have an average particle size D 50 which can be measured, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).
[0085] The coloring compound (a2), which is a coloring compound from the group of pigments, represents the second component of the agent (a) or the premix in the present invention. As a further main component (a2), very preferably, in the agent (a), the pigment is used in a correspondingly large amount. Particularly satisfactory results were obtained when the agent (a) contained one or more pigments in a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 4.0 to 70.0% by weight, more preferably 6.0 to 50.0% by weight, and most preferably 8.0 to 30.0% by weight based on the total weight of the agent (a).
[0086] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent in the present invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains one or more pigments in a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 4.0 to 70.0% by weight, more preferably 6.0 to 50.0% by weight, and most preferably 8.0 to 30.0% by weight based on the total weight of the agent (a).
[0087] As the coloring compound (a2), the agent (a) used in the method of the present invention may contain one or more direct dyes. A direct-acting dye is a dye that acts directly on the hair and does not require an oxidation step to form a color. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamine, nitroaminophenol, azo dyes, anthraquinone, triarylmethane dyes, or indophenol.
[0088] The direct dye in the meaning of the present invention has a solubility in water at 25°C (760 mmHg) greater than 0.5 g / L and is thus not treated as a pigment. Preferably, the direct dye in the meaning of the present invention has a solubility in water at 25°C (760 mmHg) greater than 1.0 g / L.
[0089] Direct dyes can be classified into anionic direct dyes, cationic direct dyes, and non-ionic direct dyes.
[0090] In another preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from the group consisting of anionic direct dyes, nonionic direct dyes and cationic direct dyes.
[0091] Suitable cationic direct dyes include Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, HC Blue 16, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347 / Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51, Basic Red 76.
[0092] As non-ionic direct dyes, non-ionic nitro and quinone dyes and natural azo dyes can be used. Suitable non-ionic direct dyes are those described by the following international names or trade names: HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, known compounds of Disperse Black 9, and 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminophenol 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2-[(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]benzoic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.
[0093] In the process of the research leading to the present invention, it has been found that a dyeing having good color strength and fastness can be produced using an agent (a) containing at least one anionic direct dye (a2).
[0094] Accordingly, in a further embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one anionic direct dye.
[0095] Anionic direct dyes are also called acid dyes. Acid dyes are direct dyes having at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and / or at least one sulfonic acid group (-SO3H). Depending on the pH value, the protonated forms (-COOH, -SO3H) of the carboxylic acid group or sulfonic acid group exhibit an equilibrium relationship with their deprotonated forms (-COO - , -SO3 - existence). The proportion of the protonated form increases with a decrease in pH. When using the direct dye as its salt, the carboxylic acid group or sulfonic acid group exists in the deprotonated form and is neutralized with the corresponding stoichiometrically equivalent cation to maintain electrical neutrality. The acid dyes of the present invention can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and / or their potassium salts.
[0096] The acid dyes in the meaning of the present invention have a solubility in water at 25°C (760 mmHg) greater than 0.5 g / L and thus are not treated as pigments. Preferably, the acid dyes in the meaning of the present invention have a solubility in water at 25°C (760 mmHg) greater than 1.0 g / L.
[0097] Alkaline earth salts (such as calcium salts and magnesium salts) or aluminum salts of acid dyes often have lower solubility than the corresponding alkali salts. If the solubility of these salts is less than 0.5 g / L (25°C, 760 mmHg), they are not included in the definition of direct dyes.
[0098] The essential characteristic of acid dyes is the ability to form an anionic charge, and the carboxylic acid group or sulfonic acid group causing this is usually bonded to various chromophore systems. Suitable chromophore systems can be found, for example, in the structures of nitrophenylenediamine, nitroaminophenol, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and / or indophenol dyes.
[0099] In another embodiment, the method for dyeing a keratinous material is characterized in that agent (a) comprises at least one anionic direct dye selected from the group consisting of nitrophenylenediamine, nitroaminophenol, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and / or indophenol dyes, and the dyes from the above group each have at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH), sodium carboxylate group (-COONa), potassium carboxylate group (-COOK), sulfonic acid group (-SO3H), sodium sulfonate group (-SO3Na) and / or potassium sulfonate group (-SO3K).
[0100] For example, one or more compounds selected from the following group are included as suitable acid dyes: Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext.D&C Yellow No.7, Japan Yellow 403, CI10316, COLIPA n°B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n°54, D&C Yellow N°10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA n°29, Covacap Jaune W1100(LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E102(BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow No.5), Acid Yellow 36 (CI13065), Acid Yellow 121 (CI18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-Naphthol orange, Orange II, CI15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n°015), Acid Orange 10 (C.I.16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 11 (CI45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1; CI20170; KATSU201; sodium salt free; Brown No.201; RESORCIN BROWN; ACID ORANGE 24; Japan Brown 201; D&C Brown No.1), Acid Red 14 (C.I.14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red18; CI16255), Acid Red 27 (E123, CI16185, C-Rot46, Real red D, FD&C Red Nr.2, Food Red 9, Naphthol red S), Acid Red 33 (Red33, Fuchsia Red, D&C Red33, CI17200), Acid Red 35 (CI C.I.18065), Acid Red 51 (CI 45430, Pyrosin B, Tetraiodfluorescein, Eosin J, Iodeosin), Acid Red 52 (CI 45100, Food Red 106, Solar Rhodamine B, Acid Rhodamine B, Red n°106 Pontacyl Brilliant Pink), Acid Red 73 (CI 27290), Acid Red 87 (Eosin, CI 45380), Acid Red 92 (COLIPA n°53, CI 45410), Acid Red 95 (CI 45425, Erythtosine, Simacid Erythrosine Y), Acid Red 184 (CI 15685), Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43 (Jarocol Violet 43, Ext.D&C Violet n°2, C.I. 60730, COLIPA n°063), Acid Violet 49 (CI 42640), Acid Violet 50 (CI 50325), Acid Blue 1 (Patent Blue, CI 42045), Acid Blue 3 (Patent Blue V, CI 42051), Acid Blue 7 (CI 42080), Acid Blue 104 (CI 42735), Acid Blue 9 (E133, Patent blue AE, Amido blue AE, Erioglaucin A, CI 42090, C.I. Food Blue 2), Acid Blue 62 (CI 62045), Acid Blue 74 (E132, CI 73015), Acid Blue 80 (CI 61585), Acid Green 3 (CI 42085, Foodgreen1), Acid Green 5 (CI 42095), Acid Green 9 (C.I. 42100), Acid Green 22 (C.I. 42170), Acid Green 25 (CI 61570, Japan Green 201, D&C Green No.5), Acid Green 50 (Brilliant Acid Green BS, C.I.44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E142), Acid Black 1 (Black n°401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, CI20470, COLIPA n°B15), Acid Black 52 (CI15711), Food Yellow 8 (CI14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 and / or D&C Brown 1.
[0101] For example, the water solubility of an anionic direct dye can be measured by the following method. Introduce 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye into a beaker. Add a magnetic stirring bar. Then add 100 mL of water. Heat this mixture to 25 °C while stirring with a magnetic stirrer. Stir for 60 minutes. Then visually evaluate the aqueous mixture. If undissolved residue is still present, increase the amount of water, for example in 10 mL increments. Add water until the amount of dye used is completely dissolved. If the dye - water mixture cannot be visually evaluated due to the high strength of the dye, filter the mixture. If undissolved dye remains on the filter paper, repeat the solubility test using more water. When 0.1 g of an anionic direct dye dissolves in 100 mL of water at 25 °C, the solubility of that dye is 1.0 g / L.
[0102] Acid Yellow 1 is called disodium 8 - hydroxy - 5,7 - dinitro - 2 - naphthalenesulfonate and has a solubility in water of at least 40 g / L (25 °C). Acid Yellow 3 is a mixture of the sodium salts of the monosulfonic and disulfonic acids of 2 - (2 - quinolyl) - 1H - inden - 1,3(2H) - dione and has a solubility in water of 20 g / L (25 °C). Acid Yellow 9 is the disodium salt of 8 - hydroxy - 5,7 - dinitro - 2 - naphthalenesulfonic acid and its solubility in water is greater than 40 g / L (25 °C). Acid Yellow 23 is the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-4-((4-sulfophenyl)azo)-1H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid and is highly soluble in water at 25°C. Acid Orange 7 is the sodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-1-naphthyl)azo]benzenesulfonate. Its solubility in water is greater than 7 g / L (25°C). Acid Red 18 is the trisodium salt of 7-hydroxy-8-[(E)-(4-sulfonato-1-naphthyl)diazenyl)]-1,3-naphthalenedisulfonate and has extremely high water solubility greater than 20% by weight. Acid Red 33 is the disodium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disulfonate and its solubility in water is 2.5 g / L (25°C). Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2-(1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl)benzoic acid and its solubility in water is greater than 10 g / L (25°C). Acid Blue 9 is the disodium salt of 2-({4-[N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl]amino]phenyl}{4-[(N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)imino]-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-ylidene}methyl)-benzenesulfonate and has a solubility in water greater than 20% by weight (25°C).
[0103] Accordingly, in another embodiment, the method according to the present invention is characterized in that the agent (b) comprises at least one direct dye (a2) selected from the group consisting of Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 and / or D&C Brown 1.
[0104] The direct dyes above 1 can be used in various amounts in agent (a) according to the desired color intensity. Particularly satisfactory results were obtained when agent (a) contained one or more direct dyes in a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 4.0 to 70.0% by weight, more preferably 6.0 to 50.0% by weight, and most preferably 8.0 to 30.0% by weight based on the total weight of agent (a).
[0105] Also, agent (a) may contain at least one photochromic dye or thermochromic dye as coloring compound (a2).
[0106] A photochromic dye is a dye whose hue changes reversibly in response to irradiation with UV light (sunlight or black light). In this process, the chemical structure of the dye changes by UV light, and as a result, the absorption behavior (photochromism) of the dye changes.
[0107] A thermochromic dye is a dye whose hue changes reversibly in response to a temperature change. In this process, the chemical structure of the dye changes due to the temperature change, and as a result, the absorption behavior (thermochromism) of the dye changes.
[0108] Agent (a) may contain one or more photochromic dyes in a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 4.0 to 70.0% by weight, more preferably 6.0 to 50.0% by weight, and most preferably 8.0 to 30.0% by weight based on the total weight of agent (a).
[0109] Agent (a) may contain one or more thermochromic dyes in a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 4.0 to 70.0% by weight, more preferably 6.0 to 50.0% by weight, and most preferably 8.0 to 30.0% by weight based on the total weight of agent (a).
[0110] <Solvent (a3) in agent (a)> The use of the solvent (a3) has continued to yield particularly satisfactory results. Therefore, agent (a) in the present invention may further contain at least one solvent as optional component (a3).
[0111] Suitable solvents (a3) may include, for example, solvents selected from the group consisting of 1,2 - propylene glycol, 1,3 - propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2 - butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol. The use of 1,2 - propylene glycol is particularly preferred.
[0112] In another particularly preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one solvent (a3) selected from the group consisting of 1,2 - propylene glycol, 1,3 - propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2 - butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol, very preferably including 1,2 - propylene glycol.
[0113] 1,2 - propylene glycol is also referred to as 1,2 - propanediol and has CAS numbers 57 - 55 - 6 [(RS)-1,2 - dihydroxypropane], 4254 - 14 - 2 [(R)-1,2 - dihydroxypropane] and 4254 - 15 - 3 [(S)-1,2 - dihydroxypropane]. Ethylene glycol is also known as 1,2 - ethanediol and has CAS number 107 - 21 - 1. Glycerol is also known as 1,2,3 - propanetriol and has CAS number 56 - 81 - 5. Phenoxyethanol has CAS number 122 - 99 - 6.
[0114] All of these solvents are commercially available from various chemical suppliers such as Aldrich or Fluka.
[0115] By using the above solvent in an appropriate amount, a particularly stable agent (a) can be obtained, which can be mixed with agent (b) particularly rapidly and uniformly. Further, when an appropriate and preferred solvent (a3) is used, or when 1,2-propylene glycol is used, a coloring result with a very high color intensity in keratinous substances is obtained.
[0116] In a further preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that agent (a) contains one or more solvents (a3) in a total amount of 1.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 20.0 to 90.0% by weight, more preferably 40.0 to 85.0% by weight, and particularly preferably 60.0 to 85.0% by weight, based on the total weight of agent (a).
[0117] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that agent (a) contains 1,2-propylene glycol in a total amount of 1.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 20.0 to 90.0% by weight, more preferably 40.0 to 85.0% by weight, and particularly preferably 60.0 to 85.0% by weight, based on the total weight of agent (a).
[0118] <Packaging of agent (a)> As described above, agent (a) is preferably a concentrate or premix mainly containing components (a1) and (a2) which are essential for the present invention. Preferably, agent (a) contains at least one solvent as a third optional component (a3).
[0119] Without being limited to this theory, it is considered that the coloring compound (a2) (especially when this is a pigment) and the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) can interact with each other. This interaction mainly seems to occur in an aqueous environment or an environment containing water. One hypothesis is that an interaction occurs between each surface of the pigment and the amino groups of the silicone polymer, whereby water can act as a proton donor or a proton acceptor.
[0120] This assumption is supported by the finding that in preparations containing, in addition to the amino silicone (a1) and the pigment (a2), the components of the carrier preparation, namely water (b1) and the fatty component (b2), at a higher concentration, deposition of the resinous substance can be observed after several days. When this preparation was used for the staining test after storage for several days, only staining with a very low color intensity was obtained.
[0121] Surprisingly, the corresponding anhydrous agent (a) formulated in the form of a premix or concentrate and not containing water (b1) and the fatty component (b2) remained stable without aggregation or deposition of resin. Thereby, it has been found that it is particularly preferred to select a correspondingly low water content in the agent (a). With an agent (a) having a maximum water content of 10% by weight, a very strong coloring result was obtained. However, when the water content in the agent (a) was lowered to a maximum value of 5.0% by weight or less, more preferably 2.5% by weight or less, and most preferably 1.0% by weight or less, the storage stability and the staining performance can be further improved. In this specification, the water content is based on the total weight of the agent (a).
[0122] Even more specifically, in a very particularly preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains less than 10.0% by weight, preferably less than 5.0% by weight, more preferably less than 2.5% by weight, and particularly preferably less than 1.0% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent (a).
[0123] In other words, even more specifically, in a very particularly preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that the agent (a) has a water content of 0 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0 to 2.5% by weight, and particularly preferably 0 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent (a).
[0124] The premix or agent (a) in the present invention contains, as main components, the above components (a1), (a2) and optionally (a3), and these are particularly preferably used in the agent (a) in a corresponding excess amount.
[0125] As a rule, the premix or concentrate can, if necessary, also contain other components different from components (a1), (a2), and optionally (a3). These other components can be, for example, preservatives, fragrances or thickeners. However, particularly good storage stability could be obtained when a substantial proportion of agent (a) was composed of components (a1), (a2) and optional (a3). Therefore, it has been found that it is particularly advantageous with respect to the object of the present invention when the combined weight fraction of components (a1), (a2) and (a3) is at least 70.0% by weight, preferably at least 80.0% by weight, more preferably at least 90.0% by weight, very particularly preferably at least 95.0% by weight, based on the total weight of agent (a).
[0126] In other words, it was very particularly advantageous only when agent (a) contained further components other than components (a1), (a2) and (a3) in a weight fraction of at most 30.0% by weight, preferably at most 20.0% by weight, very particularly preferably only 10.0% by weight.
[0127] Even more clearly in a very particularly preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that the combined weight fraction of components (a1), (a2) and (a3) is at least 70.0% by weight, preferably at least 80.0% by weight, more preferably at least 90.0% by weight, very particularly preferably at least 98.0% by weight, based on the total weight of agent (a).
[0128] If the solvent (a3) is not contained in agent (a) as an optional component, only components (a1) and (a2) are present as the main components of agent (a). In this embodiment, it is advantageous only when agent (a) contains further components different from components (a1) and (a2) in a weight fraction of at most 30.0% by weight, preferably at most 20.0% by weight, very preferably only 10.0% by weight.
[0129] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that the combined weight fraction of components (a1) and (a2) is at least 70.0% by weight, preferably at least 80.0% by weight, more preferably at least 90.0% by weight, and very particularly preferably at least 95.0% by weight, based on the total weight of agent (a).
[0130] <Agent (b)> In step (2) of the method of the present invention, agent (b) is provided. For example, agent (b) can be present in a packaging unit or container, thereby enabling access by the user. The container can be, for example, a sachet, bottle, can, jar or other container suitable for cosmetic preparations.
[0131] Agent (b) is an actual colorant and is characterized by the content of water (b1), a fatty component (b2), and at least one coloring compound (b3).
[0132] When agents (a) and (b) are mixed, preferably a high-concentration and low-water concentrate of agent (a) is mixed with the actual colorant (b). During this mixing, the amino silicone (a1) comes into contact with the pigment (b3) incorporated in the emulsion, so the interaction between the aforementioned amino silicone (a1) and pigment (b3) only begins from the moment of this mixing. Surprisingly, this type of finish in the dyeing process results in a strong and wash-fast dyeing result, and it has also been observed that it is further characterized by particularly good homogeneity.
[0133] <Agent (b)> In step (2) of the method of the present invention, agent (b) is provided. For example, agent (b) can be present in a packaging unit or container, thereby enabling access by the user. The container can be, for example, a sachet, bottle, can, jar or other container suitable for cosmetic preparations.
[0134] Agent (b) is a carrier preparation or a base preparation and is characterized by an accurately adjusted water content (b1) and a content of fatty components (b2).
[0135] By mixing agent (a) and agent (b), a premix with preferably high concentration and low water content is converted into an applicable form and can then be applied to keratinous substances.
[0136] <Water content in agent (b)> Agent (b) is characterized by being either water-free, i.e., having a water content of 0% by weight based on the total weight of agent (b), or otherwise having a low water content of at most 50% by weight.
[0137] In the process of the research leading to the present invention, it has been found that the water content of agent (b) has a considerable influence on the feel of keratinous substances or hair.
[0138] For example, when a preparation with a very high water content in addition to the fatty component (b2) was germ-mixed with agent (a) of the present invention, a dye with high color intensity could be obtained, but the feel of the keratin fibers dyed thereby was inferior. In this specification, a low grip feeling should be understood to mean that the feel of keratin fibers, especially hair, is poor, rough and hard, and not manageable by hand.
[0139] On the other hand, when agent (a) of the present invention was mixed with agent (b) of the present invention, the dyed hair felt much softer, more comfortable and less dull.
[0140] Therefore, in order to optimize both the color intensity and the feel of the dyed keratin fibers, agent (b) is very preferably adjusted to a specific water content. The best results were obtained when agent (b) contained 0 to 45% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, more preferably 10 to 35% by weight, and very particularly preferably 15 to 35% by weight of water (b1) based on the total weight of the agent (b).
[0141] Even more specifically, in a very particularly preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that agent (b) contains 0 to 45% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, more preferably 10 to 35% by weight, and very particularly preferably 15 to 35% by weight of water (b1) based on the total weight of agent (b).
[0142] <The fat component (b2) in agent (b)> A further characteristic of agent (b) is the content of at least one fat component (b2). It has been found that when using at least one fat component, agent (b) is in the form of an emulsion, which enables particularly good and rapid mixing with agent (a).
[0143] The fat component is a hydrophobic substance that can form an emulsion in the presence of water and form a micelle system.
[0144] For the purposes of the present invention, "fat component" means an organic compound having a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, at room temperature (22 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The definition of the fat component explicitly covers only uncharged (i.e., non-ionic) compounds. The fat component has at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having at least 12 carbon atoms. The molecular weight of the fat component is at most 5000 g / mol, preferably at most 2500 g / mol, and particularly preferably at most 1000 g / mol. The fat component is neither a polyoxyalkylated compound nor a polyglycerylated compound.
[0145] Very preferably, the fat component (b2) contained in agent (b) is an ester oil, C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohol, C 12 -C 30 triglyceride fatty acid, C 12 -C 30 monoglyceride fatty acid, C 12 -C 30It is selected from the group consisting of fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons. In the context of the present invention, only non-ionic substances are clearly considered as fatty components. Charged compounds such as fatty acids and their salts are not regarded as fatty components.
[0146] In a further preferred embodiment, in the method of the present invention, agent (b) is an ester oil, C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohol, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglyceride, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid monoglyceride, C 12 -C 30 characterized by comprising one or more fatty components (b2) from the group consisting of fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons.
[0147] According to the present invention, the ester oil is an ester of C6-C 30 alkanecarboxylic acid and C2-C30 aliphatic alcohol. The aliphatic C2-C 30 monoalcohol is used for esterification to the ester oil. The aliphatic C2-C 30 monoalcohol is a compound having only one hydroxyl group.
[0148] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, in the method of the present invention, agent (b) is characterized by comprising at least one fatty component (b2) from the group of esters of C6-C 30 alkanecarboxylic acid and aliphatic C2-C 30 monoalcohol.
[0149] C6-C 30Monoesters of alkanoic acids and C2-C24 aliphatic alcohols are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, and technical mixtures thereof, which are used, for example, in the pressure decomposition of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the oxo synthesis of olefins or in the pressure decomposition from the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. The C2-C 30 Examples of aliphatic alcohols, as examples of the fatty alcohol moiety in the ester oil, are isopropyl alcohol, capric alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof, which are used, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of industrial methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the oxo synthesis of olefins and as monomer fractions from the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols in high-pressure hydrogenation.
[0150] In another highly particularly preferred embodiment, in the method of the present invention, agent (b) is a C6-C30 alkane carboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, and isopropyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, eleostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol. It is characterized by containing at least one fatty component (b2) obtained by esterification with an alcohol selected from the group consisting of C2-C 30 alcohol.
[0151] Particularly preferred ester oils in the present invention are 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol® 868), isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), C16-18 alkyl ester of isononanoic acid (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), cetyl oleate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate / caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), and decyl oleate (Cetiol® V).
[0152] A clearly very particularly preferred ester oil according to the present invention is 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol® 868).
[0153] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one fatty component (b2) selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, C16-18 alkyl ester of isononanoic acid, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, cetyl oleate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate, and decyl oleate.
[0154] C 12 -C 30 The fatty alcohol can be a saturated, mono- or poly-unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain fatty alcohol having 12 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0155] Preferred linear saturated C 12 -C 30 Examples of fatty alcohols include dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol), and / or behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol).
[0156] Preferred linear unsaturated fatty alcohols are (9Z)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9E)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z)-eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidonol ((5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol), and / or brassidyl alcohol ((13E)-docosen-1-ol).
[0157] Suitable examples of branched-chain fatty alcohols are 2-octyldodecanol, 2-hexyldodecanol and / or 2-butyldodecanol.
[0158] In one embodiment, the agent (b) is selected from the group consisting of dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol), behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol), (9Z)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9E)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z)-eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidon alcohol ((5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol), brassidyl alcohol ((13E)-docosen-1-ol), 2-octyldodecanol, 2-hexyldodecanol and / or 2-butyldodecanol, one or more C 12 -C 30 Particularly good results were obtained when a fatty alcohol was included.
[0159] In a further preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that the second agent (b) comprises one or more C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohol (b2) selected from the group consisting of: dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), Octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), Arachidyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), Heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol), Behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol), (9Z)-Octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9E)-Octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z)-Octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z,15Z)-Octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), Gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z)-eicos-9-en-1-ol), Arachidonyl alcohol ((5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), Erucyl alcohol ((13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol), Brassidyl alcohol ((13E)-docosen-1-ol), 2-Octyldodecanol, 2-Hexyldodecanol and / or 2-Butyldodecanol
[0160] Furthermore, as a more preferred fatty component (b2), the agent (b) may contain at least one C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglyceride, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid monoglyceride and / or C 12 -C 30 fatty acid diglyceride. For the purposes of the present invention, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglycerides are understood to be triesters of the trivalent alcohol glycerol and three equivalents of fatty acids. In the formation of the ester, both structurally identical and structurally different fatty acids within the triglyceride molecule can be involved.
[0161] In the present invention, the fatty acid is understood to be a saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched, unsubstituted or substituted C 12 -C 30 carboxylic acid. The unsaturated fatty acid may be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated. In the case of an unsaturated fatty acid, its C-C double bond may have a cis structure or a trans structure.
[0162] Particularly suitable are fatty acid triglycerides in which at least one of the ester groups is formed from glycerol and a fatty acid selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid], linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaeostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,13-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid], and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].
[0163] The fatty acid triglyceride may be of natural origin. Fatty acid triglycerides present in soybean oil, peanut oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, macadamia nut oil, moringa oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil and / or optionally hydrogenated castor oil, or mixtures thereof, are particularly suitable for use in the formulations of the present invention.
[0164] C 12 -C 30Fatty acid monoglycerides are understood to be monoesters of the trivalent alcohol glycerol and one equivalent of fatty acid. Either the central hydroxy group of glycerol or the terminal hydroxy group of glycerol can be esterified by the fatty acid.
[0165] The hydroxyl group of glycerol is esterified by a fatty acid selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid], linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienonic acid, elaeostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienonic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid], or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid], C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid monoglycerides are particularly suitable.
[0166] C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid diglycerides are diesters of the trivalent alcohol glycerol and two equivalents of fatty acid. Here, the central hydroxy group of glycerol and the hydroxy group at one end can be esterified with two equivalents of fatty acid, or the hydroxy groups at both ends of glycerol can each be esterified with one fatty acid. Glycerol can be esterified with two structurally identical fatty acids or two structurally different fatty acids.
[0167] At least one of the ester groups is particularly suitable for a fatty acid diglyceride formed from glycerol and a fatty acid selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid], linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienonic acid, elaeostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienonic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid], and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].
[0168] Particularly good results are obtained when the composition (B) is a monoester of glycerol with 1 equivalent of a fatty acid selected from the group consisting of dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid], linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaeostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,13-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid], and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid], and at least one C 12 -C 30 obtained when containing a fatty acid monoglyceride.
[0169] In a further embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that the second agent (b) contains at least one C selected from monoesters of glycerol with 1 equivalent of a fatty acid selected from the group consisting of dodecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid and / or docosanoic acid 12 ~C 30 fatty acid monoglyceride (b2).
[0170] Hydrocarbons are compounds consisting only of 8 to 80 carbon atoms and hydrogen. In the present invention, aliphatic hydrocarbons such as mineral oil, liquid paraffin oil (e.g., white mineral oil or light mineral oil), isoparaffin oil, semi-solid paraffin oil, paraffin wax, hard paraffin (solid paraffin), petrolatum, and polydecene are particularly preferred.
[0171] It has been found that liquid paraffin oils (white mineral oil and light mineral oil) are particularly suitable in the present invention. White mineral oil, also known as white oil, is a preferred hydrocarbon. White mineral oil is a mixture of purified saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons composed of hydrocarbon chains having a carbon chain distribution of 25 to 35 carbon atoms.
[0172] Satisfactory results were obtained when agent (b) contained at least one hydrocarbon (b2) selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, liquid paraffin oil, isoparaffin oil, semi-solid paraffin oil, paraffin wax, hard paraffin (solid paraffin), petrolatum and polydecene.
[0173] When the agent in the present invention contains at least one fatty component (b2) from the group of ester oils, clearly very particularly satisfactory results were obtained.
[0174] By selecting an appropriate amount of the fatty component (b2) used in agent (b), the color intensity of the coloring obtained by the method of the present invention can be further optimized, and the feel of the keratinous substance can be further improved. For this reason, it has been found that it is particularly preferred to use one or more ester oils, C12-C30 fatty acid monoglycerides, C12-C30 fatty acid diglycerides and / or C12-C30 fatty acid triglycerides and / or hydrocarbons (b2) in a specific quantitative range in agent (b).
[0175] It has been found that it is particularly preferred when agent (b) contains one or more fatty components (b2) in a total amount of 30 to 99% by weight, preferably 40 to 97% by weight, more preferably 50 to 95% by weight, most preferably 60 to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of agent (b).
[0176] In a very particularly preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that agent (b) contains one or more fatty components in a total amount of 30 to 99% by weight, preferably 40 to 97% by weight, more preferably 50 to 95% by weight, very particularly preferably 60 to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of agent (b).
[0177] In a very particularly preferred embodiment, in the method of the present invention, agent (b) contains one or more ester oils (b2) in a total amount of 30 to 99% by weight, preferably 40 to 97% by weight, more preferably 50 to 95% by weight, very particularly preferably 70 to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of agent (b).
[0178] <Surfactant in agent (b)> Also, it may be preferable to further use at least one surfactant in agent (b). Thus, in a further embodiment, agent (b) further contains at least one surfactant.
[0179] In another particularly preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that agent (b) contains at least one surfactant.
[0180] The term surfactant (T) means a surface-active substance that can form an adsorption layer at the surface and interface or aggregate in the bulk phase to form a micelle colloid or a lyotropic mesophase. It is classified into anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic group and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants having both positive and negative charges that cancel each other out, cationic surfactants having a hydrophilic group with a positive charge in addition to the hydrophobic group, and nonionic surfactants that have no charge but are strongly hydrated in an aqueous solution and have a strong dipole moment.
[0181] In another particularly preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that agent (b) contains at least one nonionic surfactant (b3).
[0182] Nonionic surfactants include, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of a polyol group and a polyglycol ether group as the hydrophilic group. Such groups include the following: · Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, or fatty alcohol polypropylene glycol ethers, or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers, · Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, fatty acid polyglycol ethers, or fatty acid polypropylene glycol ethers, or mixed fatty acid polyethers, · Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, or alkyl polypropylene glycol ethers, or mixed alkylphenol polyethers, · Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group terminated with a methyl or C2-C6 alkyl group, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, grades obtained under the trade names Dehydol® LS, Dehydol® LT (Cognis), · C of the addition product of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide to glycerol 12 -C 30 Fatty acid monoesters and diesters, · Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, · Polyol fatty acid esters, for example, commercially available Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol® grades (Cognis), · Alkoxylated triglycerides, · Formula (Tnio-1): TIFF0007717056000015.tif16110[wherein, R 1 CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C 6-22 acyl group, R 2 is hydrogen or methyl, and R 3 is a linear or branched C 1-4 alkyl group, and w is a number from 1 to 20] an alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl ester represented by · an amine oxide, · a hydroxy mixed ether as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, · a sorbitan fatty acid ester, an ethylene oxide adduct to a sorbitan fatty acid ester, for example, polysorbate, · a sugar fatty acid ester, and an ethylene oxide adduct to a sugar fatty acid ester, · an ethylene oxide adduct to a fatty acid alkanolamide and a fatty amine, - formula (E4-II): TIFF0007717056000016.tif1366[wherein, R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl group containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar residue containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p is a number from 1 to 10] The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside surfactants represented by the formula (wherein these can be obtained by relevant methods of organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. Thus, preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The subscript p in the general formula (Tnio-2) represents the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e., the distribution of monoglycosides and oligoglycosides, and represents a number from 1 to 10. p must always be an integer in an individual molecule and can take values of p = 1 to 6, but the value p of a specific alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity and usually represents a decimal. Preferably, alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are used. From the perspective of application technology, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides preferably have a degree of oligomerization of less than 1.7 and between 1.2 and 1.4. The alkyl or alkenyl group R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols containing 4 to 11 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capron alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol, and industrial mixtures thereof, such as those obtained upon hydrogenation of industrial fatty acid methyl esters or hydrogenation of aldehydes from the oxo synthesis of olefins. Alkyl oligoglucosides with a chain length of C8-C 10 (DP = 1 to 3) are preferred. This is obtained as a preliminary stage in the fractional distillation of technical C8-C 18 coconut fatty alcohol and may be contaminated with less than 6% by weight of C 12 alcohol and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C 9 / 11 oxo alcohol (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl group R 15It can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their industrial mixtures, which can be obtained as described above. C having a degree of polymerization of 1 to 3 12 / 14 alkyl oligoglucosides based on coconut alcohol are preferred),
[0183] -sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type, formula (Tnio-3): TIFF0007717056000017.tif1374[wherein, R 5 CO is an aliphatic acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 6 is hydrogen, a hydroxyalkyl group or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl group having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups] nonionic surfactants represented by (fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances usually obtained by reductive amination of reducing sugars with ammonia, alkylamines or alkanolamines, and subsequent acylation with fatty acids, fatty acid alkyl esters or fatty acid chlorides. Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide is derived from a reducing sugar having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. Accordingly, a preferred fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide is of the formula (Tnio-4): TIFF0007717056000018.tif14127 is a fatty acid N-alkyl glucamide represented by)
[0184] Preferably, the glucamide represented by formula (Tnio-4) is used as a fatty acid-N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide, wherein R 8 represents hydrogen or an alkyl group, and R 7 CO represents an acyl group of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or an industrial mixture thereof. Particularly preferred is a fatty acid N-alkyl glucamide represented by formula (Tnio-4), which is obtained by reductively aminating glucose with methylamine and then acylating with lauric acid, C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Also, polyhydroxyalkylamides can be derived from maltose and palatinose.
[0185] The sugar surfactant may preferably be present in the agent used according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total amount of the agent. An amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight is preferred, and an amount of 0.5 to 7.5% by weight is particularly preferred.
[0186] Other typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, mixed ethers or mixed formals, protein hydrolysates (especially plant products derived from wheat) and polysorbates.
[0187] Alkylene oxide adducts of saturated straight-chain fatty alcohols and fatty acids containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of the respective fatty alcohol or fatty acid, and sugar surfactants, have been found to be preferred nonionic surfactants. When an ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid ester is included as the nonionic surfactant, a formulation with excellent properties can also be obtained.
[0188] These linkages are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl group R contains from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be either straight-chain or branched-chain. Primary straight-chain and 2-methyl-branched aliphatic groups are preferred. Such alkyl groups are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds having an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain are advantageous.
[0189] Compounds having an alkyl group used as a surfactant can each be a homogeneous substance. However, in the production of these substances, it is usually preferred to start from conventional plant or animal raw materials, so a mixture of substances with different alkyl chain lengths is obtained depending on each raw material.
[0190] Regarding surfactants that are addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products having a "normal" homolog distribution and products having a narrow homolog distribution can be used. The "normal" homolog distribution means a mixture of homologs obtained by the reaction of a fatty alcohol and an alkylene oxide using an alkali metal, an alkali metal hydroxide, or an alkali metal alcoholate as a catalyst. On the other hand, for example, when hydrotalcite, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts, a narrow homolog distribution is obtained. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution may be preferred in some cases.
[0191] When an agent (b) containing at least one ethoxylated fatty alcohol with an ethoxylation degree of 80 to 120 is used in the method of the present invention, particularly satisfactory results are obtained.
[0192] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, in the method of the present invention, the agent (b) has the formula (T-I): TIFF0007717056000019.tif2988[wherein, Ra represents a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C8-C 24 alkyl group, preferably a saturated, straight-chain C 16 -bis C 18 alkyl group, n represents an integer from 80 to 120, preferably an integer from 90 to 110, particularly preferably the number 100] and comprises at least one nonionic surfactant represented by
[0193] A particularly suitable nonionic surfactant of this type has the trade name Brij S100 or BrijS 100 PA SG. This is stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 100 EO, is commercially available from Croda, and has a CAS number of 9005-00-9.
[0194] Also, in the method of the present invention, particularly satisfactory results were obtained when an agent (b) containing at least one ethoxylated fatty alcohol having an ethoxylation degree of 10 to 40 was used.
[0195] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, in the method of the present invention, the agent (b) has the formula (T-II): TIFF0007717056000020.tif30141[wherein, Rb represents a saturated or unsaturated, non-branched or branched C8-C 24 alkyl group, preferably a saturated, non-branched C 16 -C 18 alkyl group, m represents an integer from 10 to 40, preferably an integer from 20 to 35, particularly preferably the number 30] and comprises at least one nonionic surfactant represented by
[0196] A particularly suitable non-ionic surfactant of this type is ceteareth-30. Ceteareth-30 is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, each ethoxylated with 30 units of ethylene oxide. The mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol is referred to as cetearyl alcohol. Ceteareth-30 has a CAS number of 68439-49-6 and can be purchased, for example, from BASF under the trade name Eumulgin B3.
[0197] <Other optional components in agent (a) and / or agent (b)> In addition to the components essential to the present invention already described, agent (a) and / or agent (b) may contain other optional components.
[0198] For example, agent (a) and / or agent (b) may contain a film-forming polymer. The film-forming polymer may be selected, for example, from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylformamide copolymer and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymer, and is clearly very particularly preferably polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).
[0199] Another suitable film-forming polymer can be selected from the group consisting of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylamides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylamides, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.
[0200] It has been found that film-forming polymers selected from the group consisting of synthetic polymers, polymers obtained by radical polymerization, or natural polymers are very suitable.
[0201] Other particularly suitable film-forming polymers are olefins such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene, vinyl ethers, vinyl amides, at least one C1-C 20 alkyl group, aryl group or C2-C 10 It can be selected from homopolymers or copolymers of esters or amides of (meth)acrylic acid having a hydroxyalkyl group.
[0202] Other film-forming polymers can be selected from homopolymers or copolymers of isooctyl (meth)acrylate; isononyl (meth)acrylate; 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate; lauryl (meth)acrylate); isopentyl (meth)acrylate; n-butyl (meth)acrylate; isobutyl (meth)acrylate; ethyl (meth)acrylate; methyl (meth)acrylate; tert-butyl (meth)acrylate; stearyl (meth)acrylate; hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate; 2-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate; 3-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate; and / or mixtures thereof.
[0203] Another film-forming polymer can be selected from homopolymers or copolymers of (meth)acrylamide; N-alkyl (meth)acrylamide having a C2-C 18 alkyl group, such as N-ethyl-acrylamide, N-tert-butyl-acrylamide, N-octyl-crylamide; N-di(C1-C4)alkyl-(meth)acrylamide.
[0204] Other suitable anionic copolymers are, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C1-C6 alkyl esters, which are sold under the INCI name acrylate copolymer. Suitable commercial products are, for example, Aculyn® 33 from Rohm & Haas. Also preferred are copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C1-C6 alkyl esters, and esters of ethylenically unsaturated acids and alkoxylated fatty alcohols. Particularly suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid, and particularly suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are steareth-20 or ceteth-20.
[0205] Particularly preferred commercially available polymers are, for example, Aculyn® 22 (acrylate / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer), Aculyn® 28 (acrylate / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer), Structure 2001® (acrylate / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer), Structure 3001® (acrylate / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer), Structure Plus® (acrylate / aminoacrylate C10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer), Carbopol® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (acrylate / C10-30 acrylic acid alkyl crosslinked polymer), Synthalen W 2000® (acrylate / palmiteth-25 acrylate copolymer) or the commercial product Soltex OPT from Rohme und Haas (acrylate / C12-22 methacrylic acid alkyl copolymer).
[0206] Suitable polymers of the vinyl monomer type include homopolymers and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl-(C1-C6)alkyl-pyrrole, vinyloxazole, vinylthiazole, vinylpyrimidine or vinylimidazole.
[0207] Also, copolymers of octylacrylamide / acrylate / butylaminoethyl methacrylate, such as those commercially available under the trade names AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47 by NATIONAL STARCH, or acrylate / octylacrylamide copolymers sold under the trade names DERMACRYL® LT and DERMACRYL® 79 by NATIONAL STARCH are also particularly suitable.
[0208] Suitable olefinic polymers include homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, propylene, butene, isoprene and butadiene.
[0209] In another embodiment, block copolymers containing at least one block of styrene or a styrene derivative can be used as the film-forming hydrophobic polymer. These block copolymers can be copolymers containing one or more other blocks in addition to the styrene block, such as styrene / ethylene, styrene / ethylene / butylene, styrene / butylene, styrene / isoprene, styrene / butadiene. Such polymers are commercially available under the trade name "Luvitol HSB" by BASF.
[0210] In another highly particularly preferred embodiment, in the method of the present invention, agent (a) and / or agent (b) is polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylformamide copolymer and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymer, copolymer of acrylic acid, copolymer of methacrylic acid, homopolymer or copolymer of acrylic acid ester, homopolymer or copolymer of methacrylic acid ester, homopolymer or copolymer of acrylamide, homopolymer or copolymer of methacrylamide, copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, copolymer of vinyl alcohol, copolymer of vinyl acetate, homopolymer or copolymer of ethylene, homopolymer or copolymer of propylene, homopolymer or copolymer of styrene, polyurethane, polyester and / or polyamide, and is characterized by containing at least one film-forming polymer (b2) selected from the group consisting of.
[0211] One or more film-forming polymers are preferably used in a specific quantitative range in agent (a) and / or agent (b). In this regard, when agent (b) contains one or more polymers in a total amount of 0.1 to 25.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 15.0% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0 to 7.0% by weight based on the total weight of agent (b), it has been found to be particularly preferred for solving the problems according to the present invention.
[0212] The agent may contain one or more surfactants. The term "surfactant" means a surface-active substance. It is classified into an anionic surfactant consisting of a hydrophobic group and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, an amphoteric surfactant having both positive and negative charges that cancel each other out, a cationic surfactant having a hydrophilic group with a positive charge in addition to the hydrophobic group, and a non-ionic surfactant that has no charge but is strongly hydrated in an aqueous solution and has a strong dipole moment.
[0213] Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds having at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO (-) - or -SO3 (-) group in the molecule. Particularly preferred zwitterionic surfactants are so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium-glycinate, such as cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinate, such as, respectively, cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is a fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name cocoamidopropyl betaine.
[0214] Amphoteric surfactants contain, in the molecule, in addition to a C8-C 24 alkyl or acyl group, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group, and are surface-active compounds capable of forming an inner salt in the molecule. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are, respectively, N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkylsarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkylamide betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
[0215] Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 -acyl sarcosine.
[0216] In addition, the agent may contain at least one cationic surfactant. A cationic surfactant is a surfactant having one or more positive charges, that is, a surface active compound. A cationic surfactant contains only positive charges. Usually, such a surfactant is composed of a hydrophobic moiety and a hydrophilic head group. The hydrophobic moiety usually consists of a hydrocarbon backbone (e.g., consisting of one or two straight-chain or branched-chain alkyl chains), and the positive charge is present in the hydrophilic head group. Examples of cationic surfactants are · quaternary ammonium compounds which may have one or two alkyl chains having a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms as the hydrophobic group, · quaternary phosphonium salts substituted with one or more alkyl chains having a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms, or · tertiary sulfonium salts and the like.
[0217] Furthermore, the positive charge may also be part of a heterocyclic ring in the form of an onium structure (e.g., an imidazolium ring or a pyridinium ring). A cationic surfactant may contain other uncharged functional groups in addition to the functional unit having a positive charge, as in the case of esterquats, for example. The cationic surfactant is used in a total amount of 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight, and most preferably 1 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of each agent.
[0218] Furthermore, the agent in the present invention may also contain at least one anionic surfactant. An anionic surfactant is a surfactant having exclusively anionic charges (neutralized by the corresponding counter cations). Examples of anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and ether carboxylic acids, where the C atoms in the alkyl group are 12 to 20 and the glycol ether groups in the molecule are up to 16 at most.
[0219] The anionic surfactant is used in a total amount of 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight, and most preferably 1 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of each agent.
[0220] The agent may also contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as solvents, C8-C 30 fatty alcohols, C8-C 30 fatty acid triglycerides, C8-C 30 fatty acid monoglycerides, C8-C 30 fatty acid diglycerides and / or fatty components such as hydrocarbons; polymers, structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids such as lecithin and cephalin; essential oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrin; active ingredients for improving fiber structure, especially monosaccharides, disaccharides and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; dyes for coloring the preparation; anti-dandruff active ingredients such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole; amino acids and oligopeptides; protein hydrolysates in the form of animal and / or plant systems and fatty acid condensates or optionally anionically or cationically modified derivatives; vegetable oils; light stabilizers and UV blockers; active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and its salts, bisabolol; polyphenols, especially hydroxycinnamic acid, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarin, hydroxybenzoic acid, catechin, tannin, leucoanthocyanidin, anthocyanidin, flavanone, flavone and flavonol; ceramides or pseudo-ceramides; vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; plant extracts; fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and kerosene; swelling agents and penetration agents such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidine, urea, primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; opacifying agents such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearates and PEG-3-distearate; and foaming agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air may also be contained.
[0221] The selection of these other substances is made by those skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the agent. The other optional components and the amounts of such components used are specified in the relevant manuals known to those skilled in the art. The additional active ingredients and auxiliaries are preferably used in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.0001 to 25% by weight, respectively, and 0.0005 to 15% by weight, respectively, based on the total weight of each agent.
[0222] However, as described above, the agent (a) preferably consists of the component (a1), the component (a2), and optionally the component (a3). If the agent (a) is to contain any of the above other optional components, it is particularly preferred that these are used only in small amounts in the agent (a).
[0223] <Preparation of the application mixture by mixing agents (a) and (b)> In step (3) of the method of the present invention, the ready-to-use mixture is prepared by mixing the agent (a) and the agent (b). In other words, at this process stage, the premix or concentrate (a), i.e., a very high concentration mixture of preferably low water and the aminosilicone (a1), the coloring compound (a2) and the optional solvent (a3), is mixed with the cosmetic carrier preparation (b) containing the low water content (b1) and the fatty component (b2).
[0224] In principle, different amounts of the agent (a) can be mixed with the agent (b), so a mixing ratio (a) / (b) of 1:200 to 200:1 is conceivable.
[0225] However, since the premix (a) is preferably a concentrate, it has been found that it is particularly preferred to use a small amount of the agent (a) and dilute these with a relatively large amount of the agent (b).
[0226] It is particularly preferred when the application mixture is prepared by mixing the agent (a) and the agent (b) in a quantitative ratio (a) / (b) of 1:2 to 1:200, preferably 1:5 to 1:100, more preferably 1:5 to 1:40, and most preferably 1:15 to 1:20.
[0227] For example, when the quantitative ratio (a) / (b) is 1:5, 10 g of agent (a) can be mixed with 50 g of agent (b).
[0228] For example, when the quantitative ratio (a) / (b) is 1:100, 2 g of agent (a) can be mixed with 200 g of agent (b).
[0229] For example, when the quantitative ratio (a) / (b) is 1:15, 15 g of agent (a) can be mixed with 225 g of agent (b).
[0230] For example, when the quantitative ratio (a) / (b) is 1:25, 4 g of agent (a) can be mixed with 100 g of agent (b).
[0231] Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention (3) Preparation of the coating mixture by mixing agent (a) and agent (b) in a quantitative ratio (a) / (b) of 1:2 to 1:200, preferably 1:5 to 1:100, more preferably 1:5 to 1:40, and most preferably 1:15 to 1:20, is characterized by.
[0232] The pH values of agent (a) and agent (b) are preferably adjusted so that the application mixture prepared from (a) and (b) has a neutral to alkaline pH value. Most preferably, the application mixture has an alkaline pH value in the range of 7.0 to 11.5, preferably 8.0 to 11.0, and most preferably 8.5 to 10.5. Under basic conditions, the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) can be dissolved or dispersed particularly well without being protonated.
[0233] Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is characterized in that the application mixture prepared by mixing agent (a) and agent (b) has a pH of 7.0 to 11.5, preferably 8.0 to 11.0, and particularly preferably 8.5 to 11.5.
[0234] To adjust to the desired pH value, agent (a) and / or (b) may contain at least one alkalizing agent. The pH value for the purposes of the present invention is the pH value measured at a temperature of 22 °C.
[0235] As the alkalizing agent, the agent may contain, for example, ammonia, alkanolamine and / or basic amino acid.
[0236] The alkanolamine that can be used in the agent of the present invention is preferably selected from primary amines having a C2-C6 alkyl base having at least one hydroxyl group. Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
[0237] Particularly preferred alkanolamines in the present invention are selected from 2-aminoethan-1-ol and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol. Accordingly, in a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent in the present invention is characterized in that it contains an alkanolamine selected from 2-aminoethan-1-ol and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol as an alkalizing agent.
[0238] For the purposes of the present invention, the amino acid is an organic compound containing in its structure at least one protonated amino group and at least one -COOH or at least one -SO3H group. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, especially α-(alpha)-aminocarboxylic acids and ω-aminocarboxylic acids, with α-aminocarboxylic acids being particularly preferred.
[0239] In the present invention, the basic amino acid is an amino acid having an isoelectric point pI greater than 7.0.
[0240] The basic α - aminocarboxylic acid contains at least one asymmetric carbon atom. In the present invention, both enantiomers can be used equally as specific compounds or mixtures thereof, in particular as a racemate. However, it is particularly preferred to use the necessarily preferred isomeric form, which is usually the L - configuration.
[0241] The basic amino acid is preferably selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, particularly preferably arginine and lysine. Accordingly, in another particularly preferred embodiment, the agent of the present invention is characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine.
[0242] Also, the preparation may contain other alkalizing agents, particularly inorganic alkalizing agents. The inorganic alkalizing agents used according to the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
[0243] Particularly preferred alkalizing agents are ammonia, 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
[0244] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that agent (a) comprises at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonia, 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
[0245] <Application of the application mixture> In step (4) of the method according to the invention, the application mixture prepared in step (3) is preferably applied to a keratinous material which is human hair.
[0246] Preferably, the application mixture is applied to the keratinous substance (or hair) within 1 to 120 minutes, preferably 1 to 60 minutes, more preferably 1 to 30 minutes, and most preferably 1 to 15 minutes after its preparation in step (3).
[0247] In a further preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention (4) After the preparation in step (3), applying the application mixture to the keratinous substance within 1 to 120 minutes, preferably 1 to 60 minutes, more preferably 1 to 30 minutes, and most preferably 1 to 15 minutes.
[0248] <Exposure of the application mixture to the keratinous substance> In step (5) of the method of the present invention, the application mixture can act on the keratinous substance after its application. In the present invention, for example, various exposure times from 30 seconds to 60 minutes are conceivable.
[0249] However, the main advantage of the dyeing method according to the present invention is that a strong coloring result can be achieved even in a short time after a short exposure time. For this reason, it is advantageous if the application mixture remains on the keratinous substance for a relatively short time, from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, particularly preferably from 1 to 5 minutes, after its application.
[0250] In a further preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention (5) Exposing the application mixture applied in step (4) to the keratinous substance for a time in the range of 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 10 minutes, more preferably 1 to 5 minutes. is characterized thereby.
[0251] <Rinsing out of the application mixture> Finally, after the application mixture has acted on the keratinous substance, it is rinsed out with water in step (6).
[0252] Here, in one embodiment, the application mixture consists only of water, i.e., it can be rinsed off without the aid of a post-treatment agent or shampoo. In principle, the use of a post-treatment agent or conditioner in step (6) is also conceivable.
[0253] However, in order to solve the problems according to the present invention and improve usability, it has been found that in step (6) it is particularly preferred that the application mixture is rinsed off only with water, without the aid of further post-treatment agents, shampoos or conditioners.
[0254] In a further preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention (6) rinsing off the application mixture only with water is characterized by.
[0255] <Subsequent method steps> The method according to the invention comprises steps (1) to (6).
[0256] In step (1), agent (a) is provided, and in step (2), providing agent (b) is included. These two steps do not necessarily have to be carried out in sequence and may be carried out simultaneously.
[0257] Thus, it is possible that step (1) is carried out before step (2), it is possible that step (1) and step (2) are carried out simultaneously, and it is possible that step (2) is carried out before step (1).
[0258] For example, if agent (a) and agent (b) are provided to the user in a multi-component packaging unit, both agents are provided simultaneously and the user decides which agent to remove first from the packaging.
[0259] The preparation of the application mixture by mixing agent (a) and agent (b) in step (3) can only be carried out after both agent (a) and agent (b) have been provided.
[0260] The application of the application mixture in step (4) can be carried out only after its preparation in step (3).
[0261] Similarly, the exposing of the application mixture in step (5) can be performed after applying the application mixture to the keratinous material, and the rinsing of the application mixture in step (6) can be performed after applying it in step (5).
[0262] <Multi-component packaging unit> For user convenience, it is preferred that the user be provided with all the necessary agents in the form of a multi-component packaged unit (kit).
[0263] A second subject of the invention is therefore a separately manufactured (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer; (a2) at least one coloring compound; (a3) optionally at least one solvent (a3); a first container containing an agent (a') comprising: Based on the total weight of agent (b), (b1) 0 to 50% by weight of water; (b2) at least one fat component; (b3) optionally at least one nonionic surfactant; A second container containing an agent (b) comprising A multi-component packaging unit (kit) for coloring keratinous materials, in particular human hair, comprising: (a1), (a2), (a3), (b1), (b2) and (b3), wherein said components (a1), (a2), (a3), (b1), (b2) and (b3) are disclosed in the detailed description of the first subject matter of the present invention.
[0264] The amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) contained in agent (a) of the kit corresponds to the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) used in agent (a) of the method described above.
[0265] The colored compound (a2) contained in the agent (a) of the kit corresponds to the colored compound (a2) used in the agent (a) of the method described above.
[0266] The solvent (a3) contained in the agent (a) of the kit, if present, corresponds to the solvent (a3) that can be used in the agent (a) of the aforementioned method.
[0267] The fatty component (b2) contained in the agent (b) of the kit corresponds to the fatty component (b2) used in the agent (a) of the aforementioned method.
[0268] The non-ionic surfactant (b3) optionally contained in the agent (b) of the kit corresponds to the non-ionic surfactant (b3) used in the agent (a) of the aforementioned method.
[0269] <Ready-to-use agent> By mixing the two agents (a) and (b), a ready-to-use dye is produced that can strongly and uniformly dye keratin substances.
[0270] In a very particularly preferred form of the present application, when the anhydrous agent (a) as described above is used for mixing with the agent (b), the ready-to-use agent is (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (a2) at least one coloring compound, and (a3) optionally at least one solvent (a3), and (b1) 0 to 50% by weight of water, and (b2) at least one fatty component, and (b3) optionally at least one non-ionic surfactant, and including. Here, the components (a1), (a2), (a3), (b1), (b2) and (b3) are disclosed in the detailed description of the first subject of the present invention.
[0271] Therefore, the third object of the present invention is a ready-to-use agent for dyeing keratin substances, particularly human hair, which, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, is as follows: (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (a2) at least one coloring compound, and (a3) optionally at least one solvent (a3), (b1) 0 to 50% by weight of water, (b2) at least one fatty component, (b3) optionally at least one non-ionic surfactant, and is a ready-to-use agent. Here, the components (a1), (a2), (a3), (b1), (b2) and (b3) are disclosed in the detailed description of the first subject of the present invention.
[0272] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the ready-to-use agent is characterized in that it is prepared by mixing two agents (a) and agent (b) before applying to the keratinous substance. These mixings have already been disclosed in the detailed description of the first subject of the present invention.
[0273] Regarding other preferred embodiments of the multi-component packaging unit according to the present invention and the ready-to-use agent according to the present invention, necessary modifications are made, and the same applies as in the method of the present invention. [Examples]
[0274] 1. Preparation The following preparations were produced.
[0275] [Table 1]
[0276] [Table 2]
[0277] [Table 3]
[0278] 2. Application To prepare the application mixtures, 12 g of each agent (a) was mixed with 100 g of each agent (b). Each application mixture was tested on hair (curling, euro natural hair white, liquor ratio: 1 g of application mixture per 1 g of hair bundle). The application mixture was allowed to act for 3 minutes. Subsequently, the hair was thoroughly washed with water (for 1 minute), dried, and then visually evaluated under a daylight lamp. The feel and color intensity of each dyed hair bundle were evaluated by a skilled person.
[0279]
Table 4
[0280]
Table 5
[0281] With application mixtures AWM3 and AWM4, good to particularly good results were obtained in terms of both color intensity and hair feel. The initial disclosure of this specification includes at least the following aspects. [1](1)(a1) At least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (a2) at least one coloring compound to provide agent (a). (2) Based on the total weight of agent (b), (b1) 0 to 50% by weight of water, and (b2) at least one fatty component to provide agent (b). (3) Mixing agent (a) and agent (b) to prepare an application mixture. (4) Applying the application mixture prepared in step (3) to a keratinous material. (5) Exposing the keratinous material to the application mixture applied in step (4), and (6) Rinsing the application mixture with water, a method for dyeing a keratinous material, particularly human hair. [2] The method according to [1] above, characterized in that agent (a) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) having at least one secondary amino group. [3] Agent (a) has the formula (Si-amino): TIFF0007717056000026.tif7674 [wherein ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group] The method according to [1] or [2] above, characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) containing at least one structural unit represented by. [4] Agent (a) contains a structural unit represented by formula (Si-I) and a structural unit represented by formula (Si-II): TIFF0007717056000027.tif80142 The method according to any one of [1] to [3] above, characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) containing. [5] The method according to any one of [1] to [4] above, characterized in that agent (a) contains one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 4.0 to 70.0% by weight, more preferably 6.0 to 50.0% by weight, and very preferably 8.0 to 20.0% by weight based on the total weight of agent (a). [6] The method according to any one of [1] to [5] above, characterized in that agent (a) contains at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from the group consisting of pigments, direct dyes, photochromic dyes, and thermochromic dyes. [7] Agent (a) is preferably selected from the group of inorganic pigments consisting of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfates, double metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments, and / or at least one colored mica or mica-based pigment coated with at least one metal oxide and / or metal chlorate, and contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of inorganic pigments. The method according to any one of [1] to [6] above. [8] Agent (a) is carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with Color Index numbers Cl42090, CI69800, CI69825, CI73000, CI74100, CI74160, yellow pigments with Color Index numbers CI11680, CI11710, CI15985, CI19140, CI20040, CI21100, CI21108, CI47000, CI47005, green pigments with Color Index numbers CI61565, CI61570, CI74260, orange pigments with Color Index numbers CI11725, CI15510, CI45370, CI71105, red pigments with Color Index numbers CI12085, CI12120, CI12370, CI12420, CI12490, CI14700, CI15525, CI15580, CI15620, CI15630, CI15800, CI15850, CI15865, CI15880, CI17200, CI26100, CI45380, CI45410, CI58000, CI73360, CI73915 and / or CI75470, and preferably contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of organic pigments. The method according to any one of [1] to [7] above. [9] Agent (a) contains one or more pigments in a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 4.0 to 70.0% by weight, more preferably 6.0 to 50.0% by weight, and very particularly preferably 8.0 to 30.0% by weight based on the total weight of agent (a). The method according to any one of [1] to [8] above.
[10] The method according to any one of [1] to [9], characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one solvent (a3) selected from the group consisting of 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol, and very preferably contains 1,2-propylene glycol.
[11] The method according to any one of [1] to
[10] , characterized in that the agent (a) contains one or more solvents (a3) in a total amount of 1.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 20.0 to 90.0% by weight, more preferably 40.0 to 85.0% by weight, particularly preferably 60.0 to 85.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent (a).
[12] The method according to any one of [1] to
[11] , characterized in that the agent (a) contains water in an amount of 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0 to 3% by weight, most preferably less than 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent (a).
[13] The method according to any one of [1] to
[12] , characterized in that the combined weight fraction of the components (a1), (a2) and (a3) is at least 70.0% by weight, preferably at least 80.0% by weight, more preferably at least 90.0% by weight, very particularly preferably at least 98.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent (a).
[14] The method according to any one of [1] to
[13] , characterized in that the agent (b) contains water (b1) in an amount of 0 to 45% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, more preferably 10 to 35% by weight, most preferably 15 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent (b).
[15] The agent (b) is an ester oil, C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohol, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglyceride, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid monoglyceride, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid diglyceride and / or a hydrocarbon, and the method according to any one of [1] to
[14] , characterized in that it contains one or more fatty components (b2) selected from the group consisting of:
[16] The method according to any one of [1] to
[15] , characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one fatty component (b2) selected from the group consisting of esters of C 6 -C 30 alkane carboxylic acid and aliphatic C 2 -C 30 monoalcohol.
[17] The method according to any one of the above [1] to
[16] , characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one fatty component (b2) selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, cetyl oleate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, lauric acid hexyl ester, myristyl myristate, isononanoic acid cetearyl ester, and oleic acid decyl ester.
[18] The method according to any one of the above [1] to
[17] , characterized in that the agent (b) contains one or more fatty components in a total amount of 30 to 99 wt. %, preferably 40 to 97 wt. %, more preferably 50 to 95 wt. %, and very particularly preferably 60 to 90 wt. %, based on the total weight of the agent (b).
[19] The method according to any one of the above [1] to
[18] , wherein the agent (b) contains at least one nonionic surfactant (b3).
[20] (3) Preparing the application mixture by mixing the agent (a) and the agent (b) in a ratio (a) / (b) of 1:2 to 1:200, preferably 1:5 to 1:100, more preferably 1:5 to 1:40, and most preferably 1:15 to 1:20. The method according to any one of [1] to
[19] above, characterized by:
[21] (4) Applying the application mixture to a keratin substance within 1 to 120 minutes, preferably 1 to 60 minutes, more preferably 1 to 30 minutes, and most preferably 1 to 15 minutes after preparation in step (3). The method according to any one of [1] to
[20] above, characterized by:
[22] (5) Exposing the keratinous material to the application mixture applied in step (4) for 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 10 minutes, more preferably 1 to 5 minutes. The method according to any one of the above [1] to
[21] , characterized by:
[23] A multi-component packaging unit (kit) for dyeing keratinous materials, in particular human hair, comprising individually prepared (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer; (a2) at least one coloring compound; (a3) optionally at least one solvent (a3); a first container containing an agent (a') comprising: Based on the total weight of agent (b), (b1) 0 to 50% by weight of water, and (b2) at least one fatty component, and (b3) optionally at least one nonionic surfactant, A second container containing agent (b) comprising Including, the components (a1), (a2), (a3), (b1), (b2) and (b3) are as described in any of the above [1] to
[19] , a kit.
[24] A ready-to-use agent for dyeing keratin substances, particularly human hair, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, as follows: (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (a2) at least one coloring compound, and (a3) optionally at least one solvent (a3), (b1) 0 to 50% by weight of water, and (b2) at least one fatty component, and (b3) optionally at least one nonionic surfactant, Comprising, the components (a1), (a2), (a3), (b1), (b2) and (b3) are as described in any of the above [1] to
[19] , a ready-to-use agent.
[25] Prepared by mixing two agents (a) and agent (b) before applying to a keratin substance (wherein the agent (a) and agent (b) and their mixing are as described in any of claims 1 to 22), the ready-to-use agent according to the above
[24] .
Claims
1. A method for dyeing a keratinous material, comprising: (1) providing an agent (a) comprising: (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (a2) at least one coloring compound; (2) providing an agent (b) comprising: (b1) 0 to 50% by weight of water, and (b2) at least one fatty component, based on the total weight of the agent (b); (3) mixing the agent (a) and the agent (b) to prepare an application mixture; (4) applying the application mixture prepared in step (3) to the keratinous material; (5) leaving the application mixture applied in step (4) on the keratinous material to allow the application mixture to act on the keratinous material; and (6) rinsing off the application mixture with water, wherein the keratinous material is human hair.
2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) having at least one secondary amino group.
3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) comprising at least one structural unit represented by the formula (Si-amino): [In the formula, ALK1 and ALK2 are each independently a linear or branched divalent C 1 -C 20 representing an alkylene group]
4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) comprising a structural unit represented by the formula (Si-I) and a structural unit represented by the formula (Si-II):
5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the agent (a) comprises, in a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0% by weight based on the total weight of the agent (a), one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1).
6. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from the group consisting of pigments, direct dyes, photochromic dyes and thermochromic dyes.
7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from the group of inorganic pigments consisting of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfates, double metal cyanides, metal sulfites, bronze pigments, and / or colored mica or mica-based pigments coated with at least one metal oxide and / or metal oxychloride.
8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the agent (a) contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of organic pigments selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with Color Indexes Cl42090, CI69800, CI69825, CI73000, CI74100, CI74160, yellow pigments with Color Indexes CI11680, CI11710, CI15985, CI19140, CI20040, CI21100, CI21108, CI47000, CI47005, green pigments with Color Indexes CI61565, CI61570, CI74260, orange pigments with Color Indexes CI11725, CI15510, CI45370, CI71105, and red pigments with Color Indexes CI12085, CI12120, CI12370, CI12420, CI12490, CI14700, CI15525, CI15580, CI15620, CI15630, CI15800, CI15850, CI15865, CI15880, CI17200, CI26100, CI45380, CI45410, CI58000, CI73360, CI73915 and / or CI75470.
9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the agent (a) contains one or more coloring compounds in a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0% by weight based on the total weight of the agent (a).
10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the agent (a) contains at least one solvent (a3) from the group consisting of 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol.
11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the agent (a) contains one or more solvents (a3) in a total amount of 1.0 to 95.0% by weight based on the total weight of the agent (a).
12. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the agent (a) contains 0 to 10% by weight of water based on the total weight of the agent (a).
13. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the combined weight fraction of components (a1), (a2) and (a3) is at least 70.0% by weight based on the total weight of agent (a).
14. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein agent (b) contains 0 to 45% by weight of water (b1) based on the total weight of agent (b).
15. Agent (b) is an ester oil, C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohol, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglyceride, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid monoglyceride, C 12 -C 30 The method according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it comprises one or more fatty components (b2) from the group consisting of fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons.
16. Agent (b) is C 6 -C 30 alkanecarboxylic acid and aliphatic C 2 -C 30 The method according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it comprises at least one fatty component (b2) selected from the group consisting of esters of monoalcohols.
17. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that agent (b) contains at least one fatty component (b2) selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, C16-18 alkyl ester of isononanoic acid, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, cetyl oleate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate and decyl oleate.
18. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that agent (b) contains one or more fatty components in a total amount of 30 to 99% by weight based on the total weight of agent (b).
19. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that agent (b) contains at least one non-ionic surfactant (b3).
20. (3) Preparing an application mixture by mixing agent (a) and agent (b) in a weight ratio (a) / (b) of 1:2 to 1:200 The method according to any one of claims 1 to 19, characterized by the above.
21. (4) Applying the application mixture to the keratinous material within 1 to 120 minutes after preparation in step (3) The method according to any one of claims 1 to 20, characterized by the above.
22. (5) Allowing the application mixture applied to the keratinous material in step (4) to act for 30 seconds to 15 minutes The method according to any one of claims 1 to 21, characterized by the above.
23. A multi-component packaging unit (kit) for dyeing human hair, comprising individually prepared ・(a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, (a2) at least one coloring compound, (a3) at least one solvent (a3) A first container containing agent (a'), and, ・Based on the total weight of agent (b), (b1) 0 to 50% by weight of water, (b2) at least one fatty component, and (b3) at least one nonionic surfactant, and a second container containing an agent (b) comprising the same comprising, wherein the components (a1), (a2), (a3), (b1), (b2) and (b3) are as described in any one of claims 1 to 19, a kit.
24. A ready-to-use agent for dyeing human hair, prepared by mixing two agents (a) and agent (b) before applying to human hair (wherein the agent (a) and agent (b) and their mixing are as described in any one of claims 1 to 22), based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, as follows: (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (a2) at least one coloring compound, and (a3) at least one solvent (a3), and (b1) 0 to 50% by weight of water, and (b2) at least one fatty component, and (b3) at least one nonionic surfactant, and comprising, wherein the components (a1), (a2), (a3), (b1), (b2) and (b3) are as described in any one of claims 1 to 19, a ready-to-use agent.
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