Powder cosmetics

By blending specific gelling agents and polyhydric alcohols in powder cosmetics, the issues of moisturizing effect reduction and instability are addressed, resulting in a stable and usable cosmetic product.

JP7721525B2Active Publication Date: 2025-08-12SHISEIDO CO LTD
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2022533830
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2020-06-30
Filing Date
2021-06-16
Publication Date
2025-08-12
Estimated Expiration
2041-06-16

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Powder cosmetics tend to absorb skin oil, reducing moisturizing effect and causing instability, such as caking and cracking, when high amounts of moisturizing ingredients are incorporated.

Method used

Incorporation of specific gelling agents like hydrophobically modified polyether urethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, and laponite, along with polyhydric alcohols like glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, to create a powder cosmetic with less than 10% water content.

Benefits of technology

The cosmetic maintains sufficient moisturizing effect while improving stability and usability, preventing caking and ensuring a soft, moist feel during use.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a powder cosmetic which has a sufficient moisture retention effect and also has excellent stability and usability. A powder cosmetic according to the present invention is characterized by comprising (A) a gelatinizer which is selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyetherurethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, and Laponite, and (B) a polyhydric alcohol which is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, wherein the added amount of water is less than 10 mass%.
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Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a powder cosmetic preparation. More specifically, the present invention relates to a powder cosmetic preparation that has a high moisturizing effect and is excellent in stability (adhesion (removal) of the cosmetic preparation to puffs, sponges, etc.) and usability (soft and moist feel upon use). [Background technology]

[0002] Powder cosmetics are cosmetic bases that are widely used in makeup cosmetics such as foundations and eye shadows. Generally, powder cosmetics are composed of a powder as the main ingredient and an oil that acts as a binder or adhesive for the powder. Because powder cosmetics are primarily composed of powder, the powder tends to absorb oil from the skin, reducing the moisturizing effect of the skin.

[0003] Therefore, the incorporation of various moisturizing agents into powder cosmetics such as solid foundations has been investigated (Patent Documents 1 to 3). However, when a high amount of moisturizing ingredients is incorporated into a powder cosmetic to provide sufficient moisturizing effect, the molded product softens due to moisture absorption, especially when stored for a long period of time in a humid environment, and the resulting decrease in strength makes the product significantly weaker against impacts such as being dropped, making it more susceptible to cracking. Furthermore, the surface of the molded product hardens due to moisture absorption, making it more susceptible to caking, a state in which the product cannot be used any further, and this can result in a deterioration in the quality of the product. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0004] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 6-219925 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 6-40845 [Patent Document 3] Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 10-175823 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0005] The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned circumstances, and has as its object to provide a powder cosmetic that has sufficient moisturizing effect while also being excellent in stability and ease of use. [Means for solving the problem]

[0006] As a result of intensive research conducted by the present inventors to solve the above-mentioned problems, they discovered that by blending a specific gelling agent with a specific polyhydric alcohol, it is possible to simultaneously achieve excellent moisturizing properties in a powder cosmetic while improving stability and usability, and thus completed the present invention.

[0007] That is, the present invention provides: (A) a gelling agent selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyether urethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, and laponite; (B) a polyhydric alcohol selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, The gist of the invention is a powder cosmetic containing less than 10% by mass of water.

[0008] In particular, the powder cosmetic according to the present invention is (A) a gelling agent selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyether urethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, and laponite; (B) a hydrophilic gel containing a polyhydric alcohol selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, The amount of water blended is preferably less than 10% by mass. [Effects of the Invention]

[0009] The present invention makes it possible to realize a powder cosmetic that has sufficient moisturizing effect yet is excellent in stability and ease of use. That is, the powder cosmetic according to the present invention is less likely to cause caking on the surface of the cosmetic, and therefore is excellent in ease of removal of the cosmetic from a puff or sponge (stability). Furthermore, because the cosmetic can maintain a moderate hardness, it is possible to impart a soft and moist feel (ease of use) during use. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0010] The powder cosmetic of the present invention essentially contains (A) a gelling agent and (B) a polyhydric alcohol, as will be explained in detail below.

[0011] <(A) Gelling agent> The gelling agent (A) is selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyetherurethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, and laponite, and can be used alone or in combination of two or more. From the viewpoints of stability and ease of use, hydrophobically modified polyetherurethane, gellan gum, and tamarind gum are particularly preferred. Furthermore, as hydrophobically modified polyetherurethane, PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / HDI copolymer and polyurethane-59 are preferred, with PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / HDI copolymer being the most preferred.

[0012] PEG-240 / Decyltetradeceth-20 / HDI copolymer is a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane consisting of a copolymer of PEG-240, decyltetradeceth-20, and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), and is commonly used as a hydrophilic gelling agent in cosmetics. Commercially available products include ADEKA NOL GT-700 (manufactured by ADEKA Corporation).

[0013] Polyurethane-59 is a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane consisting of a copolymer of ethylhexylglycerin, PEG-240, tetradecyl octadeceth-100, and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI). Commercially available products include Adekanol GT-930 (manufactured by ADEKA Corporation).

[0014] Gellan gum is a linear heteropolysaccharide with four sugars bonded to the main chain: two glucose units, one glucuronic acid unit, and one rhamnose unit. Commercially available products include Kelcogel (manufactured by DSP Gokyo Food & Chemical Co., Ltd.).

[0015] Tamarind gum is a polysaccharide with a structure called xyloglucan, which has a main chain of glucose and side chains of xylose and galactose. Commercially available products include Glyloid 6C (manufactured by DSP Gokyo Food & Chemical Co., Ltd.).

[0016] The agar is not particularly limited as long as it is mainly composed of agarose, which has a high gelling power, and natural or commercially available products can be used as they are. Suitable commercially available products include Ina Agar PS-84, Z-10, AX-30, AX-100, AX-200, T-1, S-5, and M-7 (manufactured by Ina Food Industry Co., Ltd.).

[0017] Laponite is a water-swellable clay mineral whose main components are magnesium and sodium silicate. Commercially available products are available, such as Laponite XLG (manufactured by BYK).

[0018] The blending amount of (A) gelling agent is 0.1 to 5.0% by mass, and preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by mass, based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic. If the blending amount of (A) gelling agent is less than 0.1% by mass, stickiness and caking tend to occur, whereas if the blending amount of (A) gelling agent is more than 5.0% by mass, the gel tends to become hard and feel rough.

[0019] <(B) Polyhydric alcohol> The polyhydric alcohol (B) is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, and can be used alone or in combination of two or more of these. Glycerin is particularly preferred from the viewpoint of excellent moisturizing properties.

[0020] In the powder cosmetic of the present invention, the blending mass ratio of the gelling agent (A) to the polyhydric alcohol (B) is (A):(B) = 1:2 to 1:15, and more preferably 1:5 to 1:10. Outside this blending mass ratio range, caking tends to occur more easily and the texture tends to be poor when used.

[0021] <Optional ingredients> In addition to the (A) gelling agent and (B) polyhydric alcohol, the powder cosmetic of the present invention may further contain other ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, etc., as needed, provided that the effects of the present invention are not impaired. These include powder, oil, water, and aqueous components, and other ingredients may also be added, such as water-soluble polymer compounds, thickeners, ultraviolet absorbers, sequestering agents, amino acids, skin nutrients, blood circulation promoters, antiperspirants, disinfectants, anti-inflammatory agents, antioxidants, preservatives, and fragrances.

[0022] <Powder> Powders that can be incorporated into the powder cosmetic of the present invention are not particularly limited, but examples include talc, sericite, mica, kaolin, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, silica, zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate, calcium phosphate, fluoroapatite, hydroxyapatite, metal soap, boron nitride, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, cellulose powder, silicone powder, zinc oxide and other extender pigments; colorants such as carbon black, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, ultramarine, Prussian blue, chromium oxide, organic tar-based pigments, lakes and other pigments; composite pigments such as titanium mica and iron oxide-coated mica; and powders of these that have been hydrophobized with silicone compounds, fluorine-modified silicone compounds, fluorine compounds, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, fatty acid esters, metal soaps, amino acids, quaternary ammonium salts, alkyl phosphates and the like. The amount of powder blended is not limited as long as the effects of the present invention can be achieved, but it is usually preferably 70 to 95% by mass, more preferably 85 to 95% by mass, based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.

[0023] <Oil content> The oil that can be blended into the powder cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it can be used in general cosmetics, and examples thereof include liquid oils and fats, solid oils and fats, waxes, hydrocarbon oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, synthetic ester oils, and silicone oils. In the following description, POE is an abbreviation for polyoxyethylene, and POP is an abbreviation for polyoxypropylene, and the number in parentheses after POE or POP represents the average number of moles of POE groups or POP groups added in the compound.

[0024] Examples of liquid oils and fats include avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, camellia oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, Chinese tung oil, Japanese tung oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, and triglycerin. Examples of solid fats and oils include cacao butter, coconut oil, horse oil, hardened coconut oil, palm oil, beef tallow, mutton tallow, hardened beef tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, beef bone fat, Japan wax kernel oil, hardened oil, beef trotter fat, Japan wax, and hardened castor oil.

[0025] Examples of waxes include beeswax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, ivory wax, whale wax, montan wax, bran wax, lanolin, kapok wax, lanolin acetate, liquid lanolin, sugarcane wax, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, hexyl laurate, reduced lanolin, jojoba wax, hard lanolin, shellac wax, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol, and POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether.

[0026] Examples of hydrocarbon oils include liquid paraffin, ozokerite, squalane, pristane, paraffin, ceresin, squalene, petrolatum, and microcrystalline wax.

[0027] Examples of higher fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, undecylenic acid, tall acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA).

[0028] Examples of higher alcohols include straight-chain alcohols (e.g., lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, etc.); branched-chain alcohols (e.g., monostearyl glycerin ether (batyl alcohol), 2-decyltetradecynol, lanolin alcohol, cholesterol, phytosterol, hexyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, etc.); and the like.

[0029] Synthetic ester oils include isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid esters, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin di-2-heptylundecanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, tri-2-ethylhexanoate, Examples of suitable glyceryl triisostearate include glyceryl xanthate, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl triisopalmitate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, glyceryl trimyristate, tri-2-heptylundecanoic acid glyceride, castor oil fatty acid methyl ester, oleyl oleate, acetoglyceride, 2-heptylundecyl palmitate, diisobutyl adipate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid-2-octyldodecyl ester, di-2-heptylundecyl adipate, ethyl laurate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, 2-hexyldecyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, and triethyl citrate.

[0030] Examples of silicone oils include silicone compounds such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, stearoxymethylpolysiloxane, polyether-modified organopolysiloxane, polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane, fluoroalkyl-polyoxyalkylene-co-modified organopolysiloxane, alkyl-modified organopolysiloxane, fluorine-modified organopolysiloxane, amino-modified organopolysiloxane, silicone gel, acrylic silicone, trimethylsiloxysilicate, and silicone RTV rubber.

[0031] Of the above oils, it is preferable to include silicone oil from the viewpoint of ease of use and feeling when used. The blend amount of oil is not limited as long as the effects of the present invention can be achieved, but it is usually preferably 5 to 30% by mass, more preferably 5 to 15% by mass, based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.

[0032] <Water> Since the present invention relates to a powder cosmetic, it is preferable that the cosmetic does not contain water, but a small amount of water may be blended as necessary. However, since too much water is likely to cause caking, if water is blended, it must be less than 10% by mass of the total amount of the powder cosmetic, preferably less than 8% by mass, and more preferably less than 5% by mass. The water is not particularly limited, but examples include tap water, natural water, purified water, distilled water, ion-exchanged water, and pure water.

[0033] <Aqueous component> The aqueous components that can be blended into the powder cosmetic of the present invention can be any water-soluble component without particular restrictions. Examples of aqueous components include lower alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, as well as chelating agents, pH adjusters, and preservatives.

[0034] <Manufacturing method> The method for producing the powder cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and known methods can be used. For example, the "dry method" involves mixing a powder component and an oily component without using a solvent, filling a container, and molding the mixture; the "wet method" involves adding a powder component and an oily component to a volatile dispersion medium to form a slurry, filling the slurry into a container, and solidifying the slurry by removing the solvent; or a method (the "W&D method") in which the slurry is converted into fine droplets by mechanical shearing, the fine droplets are dried by blowing dry gas through the droplets, and the resulting dried powder is then subjected to conventional dry molding. Details of the W&D method are described, for example, in JP 2007-55990 A. Among these manufacturing methods, a dry manufacturing method that does not include a solvent removal step or a drying step is preferred.

[0035] In the method for producing the powder cosmetic of the present invention, it is preferable to premix the gelling agent (A) and the polyhydric alcohol (B) to form a hydrophilic gel, and then mix them with the other ingredients. By preforming them into a hydrophilic gel, the gelling agent (A) and the polyhydric alcohol (B) can be uniformly mixed with the powder ingredients, etc., and excellent usability such as softness and smoothness when applying the cosmetic, as well as easy application, can be achieved. Furthermore, when a (PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / HDI) copolymer is used as the gelling agent (A), it is preferable to add a small amount of water to the hydrophilic gel to suppress crystal precipitation. The amount of water blended is preferably such that the blending weight ratio of (PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / HDI) copolymer to water is 1:2 to 1:10, more preferably 1:3 to 1:8. However, even in this case, as mentioned above, the amount of water in the powder cosmetic of the present invention must be less than 10% by weight.

[0036] Furthermore, it is preferable to blend a polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane into the hydrophilic gel, as this improves ease of removal and usability. The blending amount of the hydrophilic gel is preferably 1 to 20% by mass, and more preferably 5 to 15% by mass, based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.

[0037] The powder cosmetic according to the present invention can be in any product form within the category of powder cosmetics, such as foundation, eye shadow, blush, body powder, perfume powder, baby powder, pressed powder, deodorant powder, etc. [Example]

[0038] The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Unless otherwise specified, the blending amounts of the components are expressed in mass % relative to the system in which the components are blended.

[0039] <Evaluation of hydrophilic gel> Hydrophilic gels containing different combinations of gelling agents and polyhydric alcohols were prepared and their gelling ability was evaluated, as shown in the table below. The gelling ability was evaluated by sensory evaluation of each hydrophilic gel (number of samples N=5) according to the following criteria. A: Very good (forms an elastic gel structure) B: Good (forms a flexible gel structure) C: Normal (forms a crumbling gel structure) D: Poor (no gelation)

[0040] [Table 1]

[0041] As shown in Table 1, when hydrophilic gels were prepared by combining a gelling agent selected from (PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / HDI) copolymer, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, or Laponite with a polyhydric alcohol selected from glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, or dipropylene glycol, a gel structure was confirmed (Samples 1 to 7). In particular, gels with an extremely pleasant texture were achieved by using either (PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / HDI) copolymer, gellan gum, or tamarind gum as the gelling agent. On the other hand, when carbomer or xanthan gum, which are widely used as gelling agents for cosmetics, were added instead of the above gelling agents, a sufficient gel structure was not obtained (samples 8 and 9).

[0042] <Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6> The powder cosmetics of Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 listed in Tables 2 and 3 below were prepared by a dry process. Specifically, (13) to (25) were first dissolved and mixed at 80°C and then returned to room temperature to prepare a hydrophilic gel. Next, this hydrophilic gel was mixed with the remaining ingredients (1) to (12) and (26) to (27) in a Henschel mixer, crushed in a pulverizer, and then filled into a resin container. The powder cosmetics were then dry-press molded using a known method to obtain the powder cosmetics.

[0043] The obtained powder cosmetic preparations were evaluated for softness and ease of application using the following methods. The evaluation results are shown in Tables 2 and 3.

[0044] <Softness and ease of eating> A panel of 20 experts in cosmetic evaluation was asked to use the powder cosmetics of the Examples and Comparative Examples, and the sensory characteristics (softness, ease of application) were evaluated on a five-point scale according to the following criteria, and a score was assigned to each cosmetic. The average score of all the panelists' scores was then judged according to the following four-point scale. (Evaluation criteria) Evaluation result: Score Very good: 5 points Good: 4 points Average: 3 points Slightly poor: 2 points Defective: 1 point (Judgment criteria) Judgment: Average score A: 4.5 or above B: 3.5 or more and less than 4.5 C: 1.5 or more and less than 3.5 D: Less than 1.5

[0045] [Table 2]

[0046] [Table 3]

[0047] As shown in Tables 2 and 3, powder cosmetics obtained by blending a hydrophilic gel containing a gelling agent selected from (PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / HDI) copolymer, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, and laponite, and a polyhydric alcohol selected from glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, had a soft and moist feel when applied, were easy to remove, and had excellent stability (Examples 1 to 7). In particular, extremely excellent usability was achieved by using either (PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / HDI) copolymer, gellan gum, or tamarind gum as a gelling agent. On the other hand, when carbomer or xanthan gum was used instead of the gelling agent, when no gelling agent was used, or when polyethylene glycol 400 or PEG / PPG-14 / 7 dimethyl ether was used instead of the polyhydric alcohol, the stability and usability were insufficient (Comparative Examples 1 to 5). Furthermore, when the amount of water was increased to 10% by mass, caking occurred on the surface of the cosmetic, which significantly reduced the ease of removal of the cosmetic and even impaired the appearance of the cosmetic (Comparative Example 6).

Claims

1. (A) a gelling agent selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyether urethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, and agar; (B) a polyhydric alcohol selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, The amount of water is less than 10% by mass, The blending mass ratio of the gelling agent (A) to the polyhydric alcohol (B) is (A):(B)=1:2 to 1:

15. Powder cosmetics.

2. 2. The powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the blending amount of the gelling agent (A) is 0.1 to 5.0% by mass based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.

3. 3. The powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane is a (PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / HDI) copolymer.

4. (A) a gelling agent selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyether urethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, and agar; (B) a hydrophilic gel containing a polyhydric alcohol selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, The amount of water is less than 10% by mass, The blending mass ratio of the gelling agent (A) to the polyhydric alcohol (B) is (A):(B)=1:2 to 1:

15. Powder cosmetics.

5. 5. The powder cosmetic according to claim 4, wherein the blending amount of the gelling agent (A) is 0.1 to 5.0% by mass based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.

6. 6. The powder cosmetic according to claim 4, wherein the blending amount of the hydrophilic gel is 1 to 20% by mass based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.

7. The powder cosmetic according to any one of claims 4 to 6, wherein the hydrophilic gel further comprises a polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane.

8. The powder cosmetic according to any one of claims 4 to 7, wherein the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane is a (PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / HDI) copolymer.

Citation Information

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