Cosmetic compositions with stabilized retinol
A specific formulation of retinol with tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, and sodium polyacrylate stabilizes retinol and enhances its skin penetration, addressing stability and efficacy issues in cosmetic compositions.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2022580828
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2020-09-07
- Filing Date
- 2021-06-29
- Publication Date
- 2025-09-08
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-06-29
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions struggle to stabilize retinol and enhance its penetration into adult human skin effectively, often requiring large oil phases and penetration enhancers, which can lead to phase separation and reduced efficacy.
A cosmetic composition comprising specific amounts of retinol, tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, sodium polyacrylate, and an oil phase, formulated as an oil-in-water emulsion, stabilizes retinol and enhances its penetration without the need for penetration enhancers, allowing packaging in non-protective containers.
The composition maintains retinol stability and improves penetration into the epidermis and dermis, retaining at least 75% of retinol after 8 weeks at 45°C without phase separation and achieving up to 3 μg/cm² penetration without penetration enhancers.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS This application claims the benefit of U.S. Application No. 16 / 916,496, filed June 30, 2020, and French Patent Application No. 2009032, filed September 7, 2020, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entireties.
[0002] The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions having stabilized retinol. Additionally, aspects of the present disclosure relate to methods of treating damaged skin using the cosmetic compositions. [Background technology]
[0003] Skin serves as a natural barrier between the internal and external environments and therefore plays a vital role in vital biological functions, such as protection from mechanical and chemical insults, microbial and ultraviolet damage. However, skin health and appearance can be deteriorated by environmental factors, genetic predisposition, nutrition, and sun exposure.
[0004] The environmental pollution situation is rapidly worsening and becoming more evident in the daily lives of consumers worldwide. The damage caused by pollution to human skin is also becoming increasingly obvious. Human skin is also subject to various insults from external factors, such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, environmental pollution, wind, heat, infrared radiation, low humidity, harsh surfactants, and abrasives. Recent studies suggest that in addition to UV radiation, other environmental factors, particularly air pollution, contribute to the development of solar lentigines. Ultimately, these factors lead to visible signs of skin damage, such as small brown spots on the skin, especially in older adults.
[0005] Typical skin damages include fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, yellowing, sagging, dark circles under the eyes, puffy eyes, enlarged pores, visible dead skin, i.e. peeling, scaling, dryness, and rough skin.Consumers want to slow down the progression of skin damage, especially around the face and eyes, and reduce the effects of aging.Glowing and clear skin looks youthful and is a sign of good health and vitality.Therefore, there is a continuous need for new and improved formulations that improve the health and visual appearance of skin. Summary of the Invention
[0006] The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions having stabilized retinol, and in particular to cosmetic compositions that provide improved penetration of such retinol into adult human skin. The inventors have discovered that certain ingredients in certain amounts allow for cosmetic compositions incorporating stabilized retinol, allowing the cosmetic compositions to be contained in non-protective packaging.
[0007] A cosmetic composition according to one aspect of the present disclosure typically comprises: (a) about 0.01% to about 3% by weight of retinol; (b) about 0.01% to about 1% by weight of tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate; (c) about 0.01% to about 3% by weight of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; (d) about 0.5% to about 7% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate; (e) about 0.9% to about 7% by weight of sodium polyacrylate; (f) about 0.5% by weight to about 8% by weight of an oil phase; and (g) water Including, The cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0008] In some examples, the cosmetic composition is formulated so that the weight ratio of the total amount of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate to the total amount of sodium polyacrylate is from about 1:1 to about 1:2, from about 1:1 to about 1:3, from about 1:1 to about 1:4, from about 1:1 to about 1:5; from about 1:1.5 to about 1:3, from about 1:1.5 to about 1:4, from about 1:1.5 to about 1:5; from about 1:2 to about 1:3, from about 1:2 to about 1:4, from about 1:2 to about 1:5; from about 1:2.5 to about 1:4, from about 1:2.5 to about 1:5; from about 1:3 to about 1:4, or from about 1:3 to about 1:5.
[0009] The cosmetic composition may include an oil phase containing silicone. The oil phase may additionally or alternatively include coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jellyfish oil, mustard oil, linseed oil, shepherd's purse oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, apricot kernel oil, pistachio oil, poppy seed oil, pine oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, rapeseed oil, juniper oil, peach kernel oil, coffee bean oil, jojoba oil, or a mixture thereof. In some cases, the oil phase may include a fatty acid ester that is not polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, such as one selected from isononyl isononanoate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, and mixtures thereof.
[0010] The cosmetic composition may include from about 0.05% to about 5% by weight of a thickener that is not a sodium polyacrylate, which may be selected from ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylate copolymer, polyacrylamide, carbomer, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
[0011] In some cases, the cosmetic composition comprises from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a mattifying agent. Preferably, the mattifying agent comprises aluminum starch octenyl succinate.
[0012] Additionally or alternatively, the cosmetic composition comprises from about 1% to about 30% by weight of a polyol, non-limiting examples of which include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyethylene glycol, or mixtures thereof.
[0013] The cosmetic composition may contain from about 0.05% to about 5% by weight of a skin active agent, such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, lanolin, retinoids, retinal, adenosine, sodium hyaluronate, retinoic acid, carotenoids, panthenol, amino acids, proteins, enzymes, coenzymes, or mixtures thereof.
[0014] In some cases, the cosmetic composition is tocopherol-free. Additionally, or alternatively, the cosmetic composition may be ascorbyl palmitate-free. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0015] The present disclosure relates to a cosmetic composition having stabilized retinol and providing improved penetration of retinol into adult human skin. As described above, the inventors have discovered that specific amounts of specific ingredients can provide a cosmetic composition incorporating stabilized retinol, allowing the cosmetic composition to be contained in non-protective packaging. For example, the cosmetic composition can stabilize retinol such that after 8 weeks of storage at 45°C in a light-blocking glass container, the cosmetic composition does not exhibit phase separation and retains at least 75% by weight of retinol.
[0016] Surprisingly, in addition to stabilizing retinol, the cosmetic composition, in some cases, provides improved penetration of retinol into adult human skin. Typically, cosmetic compositions that attempt to provide stable retinol utilize a large amount of oil phase in which retinol is dissolved. Cosmetic compositions having a large amount of oil phase in which retinol is dissolved may also include a penetration enhancer to counteract the reduced penetration of retinol caused by the large amount of oil phase. The inventors have discovered that certain embodiments of the cosmetic composition stabilize retinol while simultaneously providing improved penetration of retinol into adult human skin.
[0017] According to one aspect of the present disclosure, typically: (a) about 0.01% to about 3% by weight of retinol; (b) about 0.01% to about 1% by weight of tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate; (c) about 0.01% to about 3% by weight of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; (d) about 0.5% to about 7% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate; (e) about 0.9% to about 7% by weight of sodium polyacrylate; (f) about 0.5% by weight to about 8% by weight of an oil phase; and (g) water wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0018] Preferably, the cosmetic composition does not phase separate and retains about 80% by weight or more, about 82% by weight or more, about 84% by weight or more, about 86% by weight or more, about 88% by weight or more, about 90% by weight or more, about 92% by weight or more, about 94% by weight or more, about 96% by weight or more, about 98% by weight or more, about 99% by weight or more, or about 99.5% by weight or more of retinol after 8 weeks of storage in a light-resistant glass container at 45° C. The inventors were surprised that certain embodiments of the cosmetic composition retained 100% by weight of retinol and did not exhibit phase separation after 8 weeks of storage in a light-resistant glass container at 45° C. In some cases, the cosmetic composition exhibited no phase separation after 8 weeks of storage at 45°C in a light-blocking glass container, retained about 80% or more by weight of retinol, and had about 5% or less by weight of oxygen in the container, e.g., about 4% or less by weight, about 3% or less by weight, about 2% or less by weight, about 1% or less by weight, about 5000 ppm or less, about 1000 ppm or less, about 900 ppm or less, about 800 ppm or less, about 700 ppm or less, about 600 ppm or less, about 500 ppm or less, about 400 ppm or less, about 300 ppm or less, about 200 ppm or less, about 100 ppm or less, or about 50 ppm or less. In further cases, the cosmetic composition exhibited no phase separation and retained greater than or equal to about 80% by weight of retinol after 8 weeks of storage at 45°C in a light-blocking glass container, and the cosmetic composition had less than or equal to 1000 ppm of oxygen, e.g., less than or equal to about 900 ppm, less than or equal to about 800 ppm, less than or equal to about 700 ppm, less than or equal to about 600 ppm, less than or equal to about 500 ppm, less than or equal to about 400 ppm, less than or equal to about 300 ppm, less than or equal to about 200 ppm, less than or equal to about 100 ppm, less than or equal to about 50 ppm of oxygen.
[0019] In some cases, the cosmetic composition achieves improved penetration of a skin active agent into adult human skin. For example, the cosmetic composition can achieve penetration of a skin active agent (e.g., retinol) into the epidermis and dermis of the skin. In some cases, the cosmetic composition can achieve penetration of about 2 μg / cm 2 More than 2.1μg / cm 2 More than 2.2μg / cm 2 More than 2.3μg / cm 2 More than 2.4μg / cm 2 More than 2.5μg / cm 2 More than 2.6μg / cm2 More than 2.7μg / cm 2 More than 2.8μg / cm 2 More than 2.9μg / cm 2 More than 3μg / cm 2 These skin active agents (e.g., retinol) can penetrate the epidermis and dermis of human skin. In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition provides improved penetration of the skin active agent without the use of a penetration enhancer.
[0020] Some therapeutic or cosmetic compositions achieve epidermal penetration by using a carrier or vehicle that enhances skin penetration. Such carriers or vehicles (which are compounds or mixtures of compounds) are often referred to as "penetration enhancers" or "skin enhancers." Typical penetration enhancers, which may optionally be excluded from cosmetic compositions, include sulfoxides (e.g., dimethyl sulfoxide, DMSO), azones (e.g., laurocapram), pyrrolidones (e.g., 2-pyrrolidone, 2P), alcohols and alkanols (e.g., ethanol or decanol), surfactants (also common in formulations), and terpenes. Some penetration enhancers can intercalate between the hydrophobic tails of the bilayer, disrupting its packing and increasing fluidity, thereby facilitating the diffusion of lipid-like permeants. The inventors surprisingly discovered that certain cosmetic compositions according to the present disclosure provide improved penetration of retinol and / or other skin active agents into adult human skin without the use of specific penetration enhancers.
[0021] In some cases, the cosmetic composition has 5% by weight or less, 4% by weight or less, 3% by weight or less, 2% by weight or less, or 1% by weight or less of any one of the aforementioned penetration enhancers. In at least one example, the cosmetic composition is free of, or essentially free of, any one of the aforementioned penetration enhancers. Additionally or alternatively, the cosmetic composition may have about 5% by weight or less, 4% by weight or less, 3% by weight or less, 2% by weight or less, or 1% by weight or less of the total amount of penetration enhancers. For example, the cosmetic composition may be free of, or essentially free of, penetration enhancers.
[0022] The cosmetic composition may, in some cases, have 5% by weight or less, 4% by weight or less, 3% by weight or less, 2% by weight or less, or 1% by weight or less of tocopherol. In at least one example, the cosmetic composition is free of or essentially free of tocopherol. The cosmetic composition may have 5% by weight or less, 4% by weight or less, 3% by weight or less, 2% by weight or less, or 1% by weight or less of ascorbyl palmitate. In at least one example, the cosmetic composition is free of or essentially free of ascorbyl palmitate.
[0023] Cosmetic compositions are generally formulated as emulsions. Typically, cosmetic compositions are formulated to be oil-in-water emulsions in which a fatty phase is emulsified in a hydrophilic phase. However, in some instances, cosmetic compositions may be formulated to have a hydrophilic phase (e.g., alcohol, glycol, polyol, etc.) emulsified in the fatty phase. Cosmetic compositions may be formulated to be lotions, serums, creams, sprays, or any other suitable product form.
[0024] The cosmetic composition may be packaged in a container that includes a pump. In some cases, the pump may be a standard push pump. Preferably, the container for the cosmetic composition is a non-protective package. For example, in some cases, the cosmetic composition is housed in a container that does not include an aluminum layer or another metal layer that functions as an oxygen barrier.
[0025] Additionally, the present disclosure relates to a method of treating skin, comprising applying to the skin a cosmetic composition of the present disclosure. The cosmetic composition is additionally useful in methods of treating and / or repairing skin damage caused by photoaging, and in methods of reducing the appearance of wrinkles, age spots, and uneven skin texture. The aforementioned methods may be non-therapeutic.
[0026] Suitable ingredients, such as those listed below, may be included or excluded from the formulation of the cosmetic composition depending on the particular combination of other ingredients, the form of the cosmetic composition, and / or the use of the formulation (e.g., lotion, serum, gel, cream, spray, etc.).
[0027] Retinol Cosmetic compositions typically contain retinol in an amount of about 0.01 wt.% to about 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the amount of retinol present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 0.01 wt.% to about 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, such as about 0.01 to about 2.5 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 1.5 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 1 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 0.75 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 0.5 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 2.5 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 1.5 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 1 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 0.75 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 0.5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, or about 0.1 to about 2.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It may be about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1.5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.75% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.5% by weight; about 0.15 to about 3% by weight, about 0.15 to about 2.5% by weight, about 0.15 to about 2% by weight, about 0.15 to about 1.5% by weight, about 0.15 to about 1% by weight, about 0.15 to about 0.75% by weight, about 0.15 to about 0.5% by weight; about 0.25 to about 3% by weight, about 0.25 to about 2.5% by weight, about 0.25 to about 2% by weight, about 0.25 to about 1.5% by weight, about 0.25 to about 1% by weight, about 0.25 to about 0.75% by weight, or about 0.25 to about 0.5% by weight.
[0028] In addition to retinol, the cosmetic composition may optionally include a retinoid, such as one selected from retinoic acid, retinyl esters, and other retinol derivatives. The amount of retinoid other than retinol present in the cosmetic composition may be, for example, about 0.01 wt % to about 3 wt %, about 0.01 to about 2.5 wt %, about 0.01 to about 2 wt %, about 0.01 to about 1.5 wt %, about 0.01 to about 1 wt %, about 0.01 to about 0.75 wt %, about 0.01 to about 0.5 wt %, about 0.05 to about 3 wt %, about 0.05 to about 2.5 wt %, about 0.05 to about 2 wt %, about 0.05 to about 1.5 wt %, about 0.05 to about 1 wt %, about 0.05 to about 0.75 wt %, about 0.05 to about 0.5 wt %, about 0.1 to about 3 wt %, about 0.1 to about 2.5 wt %, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. %, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1.5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.75% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.5% by weight; about 0.15 to about 3% by weight, about 0.15 to about 2.5% by weight, about 0.15 to about 2% by weight, about 0.15 to about 1.5% by weight, about 0.15 to about 1% by weight, about 0.15 to about 0.75% by weight, about 0.15 to about 0.5% by weight; about 0.25 to about 3% by weight, about 0.25 to about 2.5% by weight, about 0.25 to about 2% by weight, about 0.25 to about 1.5% by weight, about 0.25 to about 1% by weight, about 0.25 to about 0.75% by weight, about 0.25 to about 0.5% by weight.
[0029] Tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate The cosmetic composition typically comprises tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate in an amount of from about 0.01 wt % to about 1 wt %, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some examples, the amount of tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate present in the cosmetic composition is from about 0.01 wt % to about 1 wt %, from about 0.01 to about 0.8 wt %, from about 0.01 to about 0.6 wt %, from about 0.01 to about 0.4 wt %, from about 0.01 to about 0.2 wt %, from about 0.05 to about 1 wt %, from about 0.05 to about 0.8 wt %, from about 0.05 to about 0.6 wt %, from about 0.05 to about 0.4 wt %, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, including ranges and subranges therebetween. %, about 0.05 to about 0.2% by weight; about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.6% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.2% by weight; about 0.15 to about 1% by weight, about 0.15 to about 0.8% by weight, about 0.15 to about 0.6% by weight, about 0.15 to about 0.4% by weight; about 0.2 to about 1% by weight, about 0.2 to about 0.8% by weight, about 0.2 to about 0.6% by weight, about 0.2 to about 0.4% by weight, or about 0.2 to about 0.2% by weight.
[0030] Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate The cosmetic composition typically comprises trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate in an amount of from about 0.01 wt. % to about 3 wt. %, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some examples, the amount of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate present in the cosmetic composition is from about 0.01 wt. % to about 3 wt. %, from about 0.01 to about 2.5 wt. %, from about 0.01 to about 2 wt. %, from about 0.01 to about 1.5 wt. %, from about 0.01 to about 1 wt. %, from about 0.01 to about 0.8 ... 0.01 to about 0.6% by weight, about 0.01 to about 0.4% by weight, about 0.01 to about 0.2% by weight, about 0.01 to about 0.1% by weight; 0.05 to about 3% by weight, about 0.05 to about 2.5% by weight, about 0. 05 to about 2% by weight, about 0.05 to about 1.5% by weight, about 0.05 to about 1% by weight, about 0.05 to about 0.8% by weight, about 0.05 to about 0.6% by weight, about 0.05 to about 0.4% by weight, about 0.05 to about 0.2% by weight, about 0.05 to about 0.1% by weight; 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2.5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1.5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 ~about 0.8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.6% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.2% by weight; 0.15 to about 3% by weight, about 0.15 to about 2.5% by weight, about 0.15 to about 2% by weight %, about 0.15 to about 1.5 wt %, about 0.15 to about 1 wt %, about 0.15 to about 0.8 wt %, about 0.15 to about 0.6 wt %, about 0.15 to about 0.4 wt %; 0.2 to about 3 wt %, about 0.2 to about 2.5 wt %, about 0.2 to about 2 wt %, about 0.2 to about 1.5 wt %, about 0.2 to about 1 wt %, about 0.2 to about 0.8 wt %, or about 0.2 to about 0.6 wt %.
[0031] Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate The cosmetic composition comprises polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, present in an amount that may vary, typically from about 0.5% to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some examples, the amount of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate in the cosmetic composition is about 0.5% to about 7% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 1% by weight; about 0.75 to about 7% by weight, about 0.75 to about 6% by weight, about 0.75 to about 5% by weight, about 0.75 to about 4% by weight, about 0.75 to about 3% by weight, about 0.75 to about 2% by weight; about 1 to about 7% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight, or about 1% to about 2% by weight, including ranges and subranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0032] Sodium Polyacrylate The cosmetic composition typically contains sodium polyacrylate in an amount of about 0.9% to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the amount of sodium polyacrylate present in the cosmetic composition may be about 0.9% to about 7% by weight, about 0.9 to about 6% by weight, about 0.9 to about 5% by weight, about 0.9 to about 4% by weight, about 0.9 to about 3% by weight, about 0.9 to about 2% by weight, about 0.9 to about 1.5% by weight, about 1 to about 7% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight, or about 1 to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, including ranges and subranges therebetween.
[0033] Typically, sodium polyacrylate may be present in the composition in the form of microparticles or non-microparticles.When sodium polyacrylate is present in the form of microparticles, their average size in the hydrated state is preferably 10 μm or less, and even more preferentially 5 μm or less.In the non-hydrated state, their average size is preferably 2 μm or less, and preferably 1 μm or less.
[0034] Non-limiting examples of commercially available sodium polyacrylates include those sold by Avecia under the names Octacare X100, X110, and RM100, those sold by SNF under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500; those sold by BASF under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280, and Luquasorb 1100; those sold by Grain Processing under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer); those sold by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals under the names Aqua Keep 10 SH NF, Aqua Keep 10 SH NFC, sodium acrylate crosspolymer-2; and / or Sanfresh from Sanyo Chemical Industries, Ltd. These include those sold under the names ST-100C, ST100MC and IM-300MC (INCI name: sodium acrylate grafted starch).
[0035] oil The cosmetic composition includes an oil phase containing one or more oils. The amount of the oil phase (e.g., the total amount of oils) is typically 0.5% to 8% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The oil phase may include one or more oils, such as silicone oils, fluoro oils, hydrocarbon-based oils, etc. In some examples, the cosmetic composition includes an oil that is a plant-based or vegetable-based oil.
[0036] The amount of oil and / or plant-based or vegetable-based oil present in the cosmetic composition may be, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, from about 0.5 wt. % to about 8 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 7 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 6 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 5 wt. %, about 1 to about 8 wt. %, about 1 to about 7 wt. %, about 1 to about 6 wt. %, about 1 to about 5 wt. %, about 2 to about 8 wt. %, about 2 to about 7 wt. %, about 2 to about 6 wt. %, about 2 to about 5 wt. %, about 3 to about 8 wt. %, about 3 to about 7 wt. %, about 3 to about 6 wt. %, about 3 to about 5 wt. %, about 4 to about 8 wt. %, about 4 to about 7 wt. %, about 4 to about 6 wt. %, about 5 to about 8 wt. %, or about 5 wt. % to about 7 wt. %, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
[0037] Additionally and / or alternatively, the cosmetic composition may exclude synthetic oils. In some cases, the cosmetic composition may exclude oils other than plant-based and vegetable-based oils. For example, the amount of synthetic oils and / or oils other than plant-based and vegetable-based oils may be about 5 wt. % or less, about 4 wt. % or less, about 3 wt. % or less, about 2 wt. % or less, about 1 wt. % or less, or about 0.5 wt. % or less, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In at least one embodiment, the cosmetic composition does not include or is essentially free of synthetic oils and / or oils other than plant-based and vegetable-based oils.
[0038] The cosmetic composition may include an oil phase containing a low O2-permeable oil (e.g., an oil having an O2-permeability of 0.3% or less); a medium O2-permeable oil (e.g., an oil having an O2-permeability of 0.3% to 0.4%); and / or a high O2-permeable oil (e.g., an oil having an O2-permeability of greater than 0.4%). In some cases, the cosmetic composition contains an amount of low O2-permeable oil of about 50% by weight or more, about 60% by weight or more, about 70% by weight or more, about 80% by weight or more, about 85% by weight or more, or about 90% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the oil and / or oil phase. The cosmetic composition may contain an amount of medium O2-permeable oil of about 50% by weight or less, about 40% by weight or less, about 30% by weight or less, about 20% by weight or less, about 10% by weight or less, or about 5% by weight or less. Additionally or alternatively, the cosmetic composition may comprise an amount of high O2 permeability oil of about 30% by weight or less, about 20% by weight or less, about 10% by weight or less, or about 5% by weight or less.
[0039] The term "oil" refers to any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Often, at least one of the oils in a cosmetic composition is part of the oil phase. The "oil phase" is a phase containing at least one oil, which may contain additional liposoluble and lipophilic components as well as fatty substances. Oils suitable for use herein may be volatile or non-volatile. The term "volatile oil" refers to an oil that, upon contact with the skin or keratin fibers, is capable of evaporating in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3 The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and in particular has a non-zero vapor pressure in the range of 10 -3 For oils with a vapor pressure of less than mmHg (0.13 Pa).
[0040] The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluoro oil" refers to an oil containing at least one fluorine atom. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon-based oil may be an animal hydrocarbon-based oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon-based oil, a mineral hydrocarbon-based oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon-based oil. Furthermore, suitable oils may be mineral hydrocarbon-based oils, vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils, or synthetic hydrocarbon-based oils.
[0041] Silicone oil The cosmetic compositions described herein may contain one or more silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilyl amodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. In some cases, the cosmetic composition contains dimethicone and, optionally, additional oils, including additional silicone oils. Typically, the one or more silicone oils are non-volatile silicone oils. In some embodiments, the silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxane containing alkyl or alkoxy groups in the side chain and / or at the silicone chain end (each of these groups contains 2 to 24 carbon atoms), or phenylsilicones, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl (trimethylsiloxy) diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl (methyldiphenyl) trisiloxane, or (2-phenylethyl) trimethylsiloxysilicate.
[0042] Other examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned are volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 x 10 6 m 2 / sec), in particular those containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Among the volatile silicone oils that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
[0043] Fluoro oil The cosmetic composition described herein may contain one or more fluoro oils.For example, one or more fluoro oils may be selected from the group consisting of perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, dodecafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, bromoperfluorooctyl, nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoroethoxyisobutane, and 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine.Also, volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, and dodecafluoropentane may be used.
[0044] Hydrocarbon-based oils The cosmetic compositions described herein may include one or more hydrocarbon-based oils. For example, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be a saturated hydrocarbon, an unsaturated hydrocarbon, a lipid, a triglyceride, a natural oil, and / or a synthetic oil. In some embodiments, the composition includes a synthetic oil selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated polyisobutene and hydrogenated polydecene.
[0045] The hydrocarbon-based oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, such as: (i) Hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids being C4 to C624 hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, which may have various chain lengths up to 1000 kJ / ml, and which chains may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and which are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kukui nut oil, passion flower oil and Moschata rose oil; (ii) synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, for example, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as petrolatum, polydecene, Parleam, and 40 squalane; (iv) synthetic esters, such as oils of formula RCOOR', where R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R+R' is ≥ 10, such as Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C 12 ~C 15Alkyl benzoates, such as the products sold by Witco under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® or by Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade name Tegosoft TN®, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold by ISP under the name X-Tend 226, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold by Stearinerie Dubois under the name "Dub Dis" products, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, for example, propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, for example, isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, for example, di(linear C 12 ~C 13 alkyl) tartrates, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, and di(linear C 14 ~C 15 alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold by the same company under the name Cosmacol ETL®; or acetates; (v) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and contain branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chains containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol; (vi) higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid; (vii) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis; (viii) fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example, the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205® by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.; and (ix) sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berry oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedar oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil oil), frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, pepper oil, vetiver oil, mung bean oil, and ylang ylang. is.
[0046] In particular examples, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include glyceride triesters, particularly caprylic / capric triglyceride, synthetic esters, particularly isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C 12 ~C 15 Alkyl benzoates, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, and fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol.
[0047] Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, particularly branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, e.g., petroleum-derived C8-C 16 Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C 16ester, and isohexyl neopentanoate are mentioned.
[0048] Preferably, the oil is selected from plant- or vegetable-based oils such as palm oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jellyfish oil, mustard oil, linseed oil, shepherd's purse oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, apricot kernel oil, pistachio oil, poppy seed oil, pine oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grapeseed oil, rapeseed oil, juniper oil, peach kernel oil, coffee bean oil, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0049] Fatty acid esters other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate The cosmetic composition may include a fatty acid ester other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate. In some cases, the fatty acid ester is considered to be part of the oil phase. The fatty acid ester other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate may be a glycerol fatty acid ester, a sorbitan fatty acid ester, an ethoxylated fatty acid ester, a synthetic ester, or the like. A discussion of fatty acid esters other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate that may be included in the cosmetic composition is provided below.
[0050] Glycerol fatty acid esters The glycerol fatty acid esters that can be used as nonionic amphiphilic lipids can be selected from the group consisting of esters formed from at least one acid containing a saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and esters formed from 1 to 10 glycerol units. One or more of these glycerol fatty acid esters can be used in the emulsions of the present disclosure.
[0051] Sorbitan fatty acid esters Sorbitan fatty acid esters that can be used as nonionic amphiphilic lipids can be selected, in particular, from the group consisting of esters of C16-C22 fatty acids and sorbitan, and oxyethylenated esters of C16-C22 fatty acids and sorbitan. These are formed from at least one fatty acid, each containing at least one saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters generally contain from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide (EO) units, preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.
[0052] These esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates and mixtures thereof, with stearates and palmitates being preferably used.
[0053] As examples of sorbitan fatty acid esters and oxyethylated sorbitan fatty acid esters, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold by ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan monopalmitate) sold by ICI under the name Span 40, or sorbitan 20 EO tristearate (CTFA name: polysorbate 65) sold by ICI under the name Tween 65.
[0054] Ethoxylated fatty acid esters Ethoxylated fatty acid esters that can be used as nonionic amphiphilic lipids are esters consisting of 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and at least one fatty acid chain containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty acid chain of the ester can be selected from stearate, behenate, arachidate, and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof. Examples of ethoxylated fatty acid esters include stearic acid esters containing 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product sold by ICI under the name Myrj 52 (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), and behenic acid esters containing 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product sold by Gattefosse under the name Compritol HD5 ATO.
[0055] Synthetic esters Synthetic esters, such as oils of formula RCOOR', where R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R+R' is ≥ 10, such as Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C 12 ~C 15Alkyl benzoates, such as the products sold by Witco under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® or by Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade name Tegosoft TN®, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold by ISP under the name X-Tend 226, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as Stearinerie Products sold by Dubois under the name "DubDis" include octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di(linear C 12 ~C 13 alkyl) tartrates, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, and di(linear C 14 ~C 15 alkyl) tartrates, for example, those sold by the same company under the name Cosmacol ETL®; or acetates.
[0056] The amount of fatty acid ester that is not polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate present in the cosmetic composition may be, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, from about 0.5 wt. % to about 8 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 7 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 6 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 5 wt. %, about 1 to about 8 wt. %, about 1 to about 7 wt. %, about 1 to about 6 wt. %, about 1 to about 5 wt. %, about 2 to about 8 wt. %, about 2 to about 7 wt. %, about 2 to about 6 wt. %, about 2 to about 5 wt. %, about 3 to about 8 wt. %, about 3 to about 7 wt. %, about 3 to about 6 wt. %, about 3 to about 5 wt. %, about 4 to about 8 wt. %, about 4 to about 7 wt. %, about 4 to about 6 wt. %, about 5 to about 8 wt. %, or about 5 wt. % to about 7 wt. %, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
[0057] Thickeners other than sodium polyacrylate The cosmetic compositions described herein may optionally include a thickener other than sodium polyacrylate, and the thickener other than sodium polyacrylate may be present in an amount of from about 0.05% to about 5% by weight, from about 0.05% to about 4% by weight, from about 0.05% to about 3% by weight, from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight, from about 0.05% to about 1% by weight, from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1% to about 4% by weight, from about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1% to about 1% by weight, including ranges and subranges thereof, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The amount may be about 0.2% to about 2% by weight, about 0.1% to about 1% by weight; about 0.2% to about 5% by weight, about 0.2% to about 4% by weight, about 0.2% to about 3% by weight, about 0.2% to about 2% by weight, about 0.2% to about 1% by weight; about 0.3% to about 5% by weight, about 0.3% to about 4% by weight, about 0.3% to about 3% by weight, about 0.3% to about 2% by weight, or about 0.3% to about 1% by weight. Further, the amount of thickener may be from 0.05 wt.%, 0.1 wt.%, 0.2 wt.%, 0.3 wt.%, 0.4 wt.%, 0.5 wt.%, 0.6 wt.%, 0.7 wt.%, 0.8 wt.%, 0.9 wt.%, 1.0 wt.%, or 1.5 wt.% up to 2 wt.%, 3 wt.%, 4 wt.%, or 5 wt.%, including ranges and subranges thereof, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0058] Many thickeners are water-soluble, and when the cosmetic composition of the present invention is dispersed / dissolved in water, they increase the viscosity of the water or form an aqueous gel. This aqueous solution can be heated, cooled, or neutralized as needed to form a gel. When thickeners other than sodium polyacrylate are dispersed / dissolved in water, they can be dispersed / dissolved in a water-soluble aqueous solvent, such as ethyl alcohol.
[0059] Thickeners are sometimes referred to as "thickeners" or "viscosity modifiers." Thickeners are typically included to increase the viscosity of a composition. Nevertheless, in some instances, certain thickeners provide additional, surprising benefits to the composition. Non-limiting examples of thickeners include polyacrylate crosspolymers (other than sodium polyacrylate) or crosslinked polyacrylate polymers (other than crosslinked sodium polyacrylate), cationic acrylate copolymers, anionic acrylic acid or carboxylic acid polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives, gums, polyquaterniums, vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers / copolymers, C8-24 hydroxyl-substituted aliphatic acids, C8-24 conjugated aliphatic acids, sugar fatty acid esters, polyglyceryl esters, and mixtures thereof. Suitable thickeners other than sodium polyacrylate can be found in U.S. Patent Application Serial No. 16 / 731,654, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein for all purposes.
[0060] The thickener other than sodium polyacrylate can be selected from xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia seneca gum, sclerotium gum, agarose, pectin, gellan gum, and hyaluronic acid. Additionally, the thickener other than sodium polyacrylate can include a polymeric thickener selected from the group consisting of ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, acrylate copolymer, polyacrylamide, carbomer, and acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.
[0061] Specific types of thickeners that may be mentioned include: Carboxylic acid or carboxylate based homopolymers or copolymers which can be linear or crosslinked.
[0062] These polymers contain one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid (acrylate), substituted acrylic acid, and salts and esters of these acrylic and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available polymers include those sold under the trade names Carbopol, Acrysol, Polygel, Sokalan, Carbopol Ultrez, and Polygel. Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers include carbomer, a homopolymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. Carbomer is available as BFGoodrich's Carbopol 900 series (e.g., Carbopol 954). Still other suitable carboxylic acid polymers include Ultrez 10 (BFGoodrich) and copolymers of C10-30 alkyl acrylate with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of their short-chain (i.e., C1-4 alcohol) esters, where the crosslinker is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and are commercially available from BFGoodrich as Carbopol 1342, Carbopol 1382, Pemulen TR-1, and Pemulen TR-2.
[0063] Other suitable carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymeric agents include copolymers of acrylic acid and alkyl C5-C10 acrylates, copolymers of acrylic acid and maleic anhydride, and polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, which is available from Seppic in a material known as SEPIMAX ZEN.
[0064] Another suitable carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymeric agent includes acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylate copolymer, a cationic acrylate copolymer (or quaternary ammonium compound) available from Seppic as a raw material known under the trade name SIMULQUAT HC 305.
[0065] In certain embodiments, the carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymeric thickeners useful herein are those selected from carbomer, acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
[0066] Polyquaternium Compounds Non-limiting examples include polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-31, polyquaternium-32, polyquaternium-33, polyquaternium-34, polyquaternium-35, polyquaternium-36, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-38, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyqua Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-21, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-23, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-25, Polyquaternium-26, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29 ...29, Polyquaternium-21, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-23, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-25, Polyquaternium-26, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-21, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-23, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-25, Polyquaternium-26, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-21, Polyquaternium-21, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-23, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-25, Polyquaternium-26, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28 Aternium-30, Polyquaternium-40, Polyquaternium-41, Polyquaternium-42, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-51, Polyquaternium-52, Polyquaternium-5 Polyquaternium-3, Polyquaternium-54, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-56, Polyquaternium-57, Polyquaternium-58, Polyquaternium-59, Polyquaternium-60, Polyquaternium-61, Polyquaternium-62, Polyquaternium-63, Polyquaternium-64, Polyquaternium-65, Polyquaternium-66, Polyquaternium-67, etc. In some cases, preferred polyquaternium compounds include Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof. In some examples, the cosmetic composition includes Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-67, or mixtures thereof.
[0067] cellulose Non-limiting examples of cellulose include cellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, methylhydroxyethyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof.In some examples, the cellulose is selected from water-soluble cellulose derivatives (e.g., carboxymethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate).Furthermore, in some examples, the cellulose is preferably hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC).In some examples, the cosmetic composition includes one or more cellulose thickeners (e.g., microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, and hydroxypropyl cellulose).
[0068] Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and copolymers Non-limiting examples include polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) / vinyl acetate copolymer (PVP / VA copolymer), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) / eicosene copolymer, and PVP / hexadecene copolymer. Commercially available polyvinylpyrrolidone includes Luviskol K30, K85, and K90 available from BASF. Commercially available copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate include Luviskol VA37 and VA64 available from BASF, and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide, and vinylimidazole (INCI: VP / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole copolymer) are commercially available from BASF under the name Luviset. In some instances, PVP and PVP / VA copolymers are preferred.
[0069] Sucrose Esters Non-limiting examples include sucrose palmitate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose monooctanoate, sucrose monodecanoate, sucrose mono- or dilaurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose mono- or dipalmitate, sucrose mono- and distearate, sucrose mono-, di-, or trioleate, sucrose mono- or dilinoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, or sucrose octooleate, and mixed esters such as sucrose palmitate / stearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0070] Polyglyceryl ester Non-limiting polyglycerol esters (polyglyceryl esters) of fatty acids include those of the formula: TIFF0007735334000001.tif16170 [wherein n is 2 to 20, or 2 to 10, or 2 to 5, or 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10; R 1 , R 2 and R 3 may each independently be a fatty acid moiety or hydrogen, with the proviso that R 1 , R 2 and R 3 At least one of R is a fatty acid moiety. 1 , R 2 and R 3 may be saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched, and C1 to C 40 , C1~C 30 , C1~C 25 , or C1~C 20 , C1~C 16 , or C1~C 10Additionally, non-limiting examples of nonionic polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0071] C8-24 hydroxyl-substituted aliphatic acids and C8-24 conjugated aliphatic acids Non-limiting examples include conjugated linoleic acid, cis-parinaric acid, trans-7-octadecenoic acid, cis-5,8,11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic acid, cis-4,7,10,13,16,19-docosahexaenoic acid, columbic acid, linolene elaidic acid, ricinolaidic acid, stearidonic acid, 2-hydroxystearic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, cis-11,14-eicosadienoic acid, linoleelaidic acid, monopetroselinic acid, petroselinic acid, ricinoleic acid, trans-vaccenic acid, cis-11,14,17-eicosatrienoic acid, cis-5-eicosenoic acid, cis-8,11,14-eicosatrienoic acid, hexadecatrienoic acid, palmitoleic acid, petroselinic acid, trans-octadec ... trans-octadecenoic acid, cis-5-octadecenoic acid, cis-8,11,14-eicosatrienoic acid, hexadecatrienoic acid, palmitoleic acid, trans-octadecenoic acid, cis-5- Examples of fatty acids include cis-13,16-docosadienoic acid, cis-vaccenic acid, cis-11-eicosenoic acid, cis-13,16,19-docosatrienoic acid, cis-13-octadecenoic acid, cis-15-octadecanoic acid, cis-7,10,13,16-docosatetraenoic acid, elaidic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, geranic acid, geranylgeranoic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, pinolenic acid, and trans-13-octadecenoic acid. More preferably, the fatty acid comprises 12-hydroxystearic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, or a mixture thereof.
[0072] gum Non-limiting examples of gums include gum arabic, gum tragacanth, gum karaya, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, xanthan gum, locust bean gum, seneca gum, sclerotium gum, and the like.
[0073] Mattifying Agent The cosmetic composition of the present disclosure may include a matting agent. The amount of the matting agent in the cosmetic composition may be, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, for example, about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight; about 0.25 to about 10% by weight, about 0.25 to about 8% by weight, about 0.25 to about 6% by weight, about 0.25 to about 5% by weight, about 0.25 to about 4% by weight, about 0.25 to about 3% by weight, about 0.25 to about 2% by weight, about 0.25 to about 1% by weight, or about 0.25 to about 1% by weight, including ranges and subranges therebetween. The amount may be about 5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 1% by weight; about 0.75 to about 10% by weight, about 0.75 to about 8% by weight, about 0.75 to about 6% by weight, about 0.75 to about 5% by weight, about 0.75 to about 4% by weight, about 0.75 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.75 to about 2% by weight; about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight, or about 1 to about 2% by weight.
[0074] Mattifying agents (also referred to as "mattifying fillers") refer to materials that give the complexion a more transparent and hazy effect, and give the skin a natural and desirable appearance without giving it a greasy, shiny, or glossy appearance.To achieve this, these materials are often absorbent fillers, such as talc, silica, kaolin, or fillers with light-scattering optical properties, which are known as the "soft focus" effect.In addition to reducing gloss or greasiness, mattifying agents can also contribute to the overall texture and thickness of cosmetic compositions.Mattifying agents are often (but not necessarily) particulate materials or powders.
[0075] Cosmetic compositions containing mattifying agents can be characterized by the following protocol: The test compositions are spread on a contrast card (Prufkarte type 24 / 5-250 cm sold by Erichsen) using a mechanical film spreader. 2 ) 2mg / cm 2 The composition is then dried overnight at 37°C, after which its reflection is measured using a gonioreflectometer sold by Micromodule. The specular reflected intensity (R) at 30° and the scattered intensity (D) at 90° are measured consecutively. The result obtained is the ratio R between specular and diffuse reflection. The value of R is proportionally smaller the greater the matting effect provided by the filler. An R value of 2 or less generally indicates a matting effect. Mattifying agents according to the present disclosure preferably include those that, at a content of 5% in the cosmetic composition, give an R value of less than 1.5, preferably less than 1.
[0076] Non-limiting examples of matting agents include silica, clay, silicate derivatives, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, porous silica microparticles, such as silica beads SB150 and SB700 from Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd., with an average size of 5 microns; Sunsphere series H products from AGC Corporation, such as Sunsphere H33, H51, and H53, with sizes of 3 μm, 5 μm, and 5 μm, respectively; polytetrafluoroethylene powders, such as PTFE Ceridust 9205F from Clariant, with an average size of 8 microns; silicone resin powders, such as silicone resin Tospearl 145A from GE Silicone, with an average size of 4.5 microns; hollow hemispherical silicone particles, such as NLK500, NLK506, and NLK510 from Takemoto Yushi Co., Ltd.; acrylic copolymer powders, particularly polymethyl (meth)acrylate, such as PMMA particles Jurymer from Nihon Junyoki, with an average size of 8 microns. hollow PMMA spheres sold under the name Covabead LH 85 by MBI, Wacker, and expanded microspheres of vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate sold under the name Expancel; wax powders, for example paraffin wax particles MicroEase 114S from MicroPowders, with an average size of 7 microns; polyethylene powders, in particular polyethylene powders comprising and in particular consisting of at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, for example Flobeads from Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd. EA209 particles (average size 10 microns), crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resins, particularly silsesquioxane resins, such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,538,793 (such elastomeric powders are sold by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, and KSP-105), polyamide (Nylon.RTM.) powders, such as Atofina's Orgasol type nylon 12 particles with an average size of 10 microns, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) type powders, talc, silica / TiO2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, and mixtures thereof.
[0077] Among the clays, mention may be made of clays of the smectite class, such as laponite, clays of the kaolinite class, such as kaolinite, dickite or nacrite, halloysite, dombassite, antigorite, benthierine or optionally modified clays of the pyrophyllite class, montmorillonite, beidellite, vermiculite, talc, stevensite, hectorite, saponite, chlorite, sepiolite and illite.
[0078] Clays include, for example, the products described in the publication Mineralogy of Clays, S. Caillere, S. Henin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Natural clays are sedimentary rocks composed largely of specific minerals, silicates, typically aluminum. Kaolin is a natural clay. Clays may also be synthetic. Clays may also be chemically modified with various compounds, such as acrylic acid, polysaccharides (e.g., carboxymethylcellulose), or organic cations. In some examples, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure comprise a clay selected from the group consisting of kaolinite, montmorillonite, saponite, laponite, hectorite (including disteardimonium hectorite), and illite.
[0079] Silica derivatives that may be mentioned include silica powders, such as porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700 by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd., the products Sunsphere H51, Sunsphere H33, and Sunsphere H53 by AGC Co., Ltd.; polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the names SA Sunsphere H-33 and SA Sunsphere H-53 by AGC Co., Ltd.; silica microbeads, such as those sold under the name SB150 by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd.
[0080] In some examples, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more matting agents selected from the group consisting of methyl methacrylate / glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, nylon 12, polyamide, polyethylene, talc, titanium dioxide, silica, aluminum starch octenyl succinate, clay (such as hectorite clay including distearidimonium hectorite), silica, polymethysilsequioxane, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the matting agent, if present, is aluminum starch octenyl succinate.
[0081] Polyol The cosmetic composition may include one or more polyols. The amount of polyol in the cosmetic composition, if present, may range from about 1 wt. % to about 30 wt. %, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the cosmetic composition may include about 1 wt. % to about 30 wt. %, about 1 to about 25 wt. %, about 1 to about 20 wt. %, about 1 to about 18 wt. %, about 1 to about 16 wt. %, about 1 to about 14 wt. %, about 1 to about 12 wt. %, about 1 to about 10 wt. %, about 5 to about 30 wt. %, about 5 to about 25 wt. %, about 5 to about 20 wt. %, about 5 to about 18 wt. %, about 5 to about 16 wt. %, about 5 to about 14 wt. %, about 5 to about 12 wt. %, about 5 to about 10 wt. %, about 10 to about 30 wt. %, about 10 to about 25 wt. %, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, including ranges and subranges thereof. %, about 10 to about 20% by weight, about 10 to about 18% by weight, about 10 to about 16% by weight, about 10 to about 14% by weight; about 12 to about 30% by weight, about 12 to about 25% by weight, about 12 to about 20% by weight, about 12 to about 18% by weight, about 12 to about 16% by weight; about 14 to about 30% by weight, about 14 to about 25% by weight, about 14 to about 20% by weight, about 14 to about 18% by weight; about 16 to about 30% by weight, about 16 to about 25% by weight, about 16 to about 20% by weight; about 18 to about 30% by weight, about 18 to about 25% by weight, about 18 to about 20% by weight.
[0082] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. The term "polyol" should be understood within the meaning of the present disclosure to mean an organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups. The polyols of the cosmetic composition may be glycols or compounds with multiple hydroxyl groups. In some cases, one or more polyols may be C2-C6 32 The polyol or polyols may be liquid at room temperature (25°C). The polyol or polyols may have from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 12 carbon atoms.
[0083] Non-limiting examples of polyols that may optionally be included in the cosmetic composition include alkanediols, such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; glycol ethers, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol ethanol, sorbitol, sorbitan, triacetin, and mixtures thereof.The one or more polyols may optionally be glycols or glycol ethers, such as the monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, the monomethyl ether of dipropylene glycol, and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, such as the monoethyl or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
[0084] In some cases, the polyol includes glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol, and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and mixtures thereof.
[0085] In some cases, the polyol is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0086] Skin activators The cosmetic composition may optionally include one or more skin active agents, such as anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle active agents, antioxidants, humectants, moisturizing ingredients, depigmenting agents, and / or agents for treating oily skin, etc. The skin active agents may be included in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from greater than 0 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of skin active agents may be from greater than zero to about 5% by weight, greater than zero to about 4% by weight, greater than zero to about 3% by weight, greater than zero to about 2% by weight; about 10 ppm to about 5% by weight (50,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 2.5% by weight (25,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 1% by weight (10,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.5% by weight (5,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.3% by weight (3,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0, 0.2% by weight (2,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.1% by weight (1,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to 500 ppm; about 0.05% by weight to about 5% by weight, about 0.05 to about 2.5% by weight, about 0.05 to about 1% by weight, about 0.05 to about 0.5% by weight; about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2.5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.5% by weight; about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight; about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 4% by weight; or about 3% to about 5% by weight.
[0087] A non-limiting discussion of skin active agents that may in some cases be included in the cosmetic composition is provided below.
[0088] Humectants and / or moisturizing ingredients Examples of humectants and / or moisturizing ingredients are glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance available from National Starch, hyaluronic acid, sodium pydolate, xylitol, serine, ectoine and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, extract of Imperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24 by Sederma, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM from NOF Corporation, β-glucans, in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry, a mixture of passion flower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils sold under the name NutraLipids by Nestlé, C-glycoside derivatives, in particular Mexoryl from Chimex. C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution of 30% by weight of the active substance in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60 / 40% by weight), such as the product manufactured under the trade name "SBB", rosehip oil available from Nestle, zinc-enriched extract of the microalgae Prophyridium cruentum available from Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc, marine-derived collagen and chondroitin sulfate spheres (Atelocollagen) available from Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres, hyaluronic acid spheres such as those available from Engelhard Lyon, and arginine.
[0089] Depigmenting agents Depigmenting agents that may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition include alpha and beta arbutin, rucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, homogentisic acid, methyl gentisate or methyl homogentisate, diacids, D pantheteine calcium sulphonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, certain compounds derived from plants such as chamomile, uva-ursi, aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, skullcap, Actinidia chinensis (available from Gattefosse), extracts of the roots of Paeonia suffruticosa (e.g., sold under the name Liquid Botanpi Be by Ichimaru Falcos Co., Ltd.), extracts of sugarcane (Saccharum officinarum) (e.g., sold under the name Liquid Botanpi Be by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd.), Specific depigmenting agents include those selected from molasses extracts available commercially under the name Molasses, although this list is not exhaustive. Specific depigmenting agents include alpha and beta arbutin, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, D-pantetheine calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, Actinidia chinensis available commercially from Gattefosse, and extracts of the roots of Paeonia suffruticosa, such as those sold under the name Botanpi Liquid B by Ichimaru Falcos Co., Ltd.
[0090] Anti-wrinkle active agent Cosmetic compositions may contain one or more anti-wrinkle active agents.The term "anti-wrinkle active agent" refers to a natural or synthetic compound that, when contacted with wrinkled skin areas, produces a biological effect, for example, increases the synthesis and / or activity of certain enzymes, which has the effect of reducing the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines.Exemplary anti-wrinkle active agents can be selected from desquamating agents, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or prevent their degradation, agents that stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes, or agents that stimulate keratinocyte differentiation reducers; muscle relaxants and / or dermo-decontracting agents, anti-free radical agents, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds are adenosine and its derivatives, and retinoids other than retinol (as mentioned above), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; nicotinic acid and its precursors, such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors, such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, in particular the compounds described in EP-1345919, C-glycosides and derivatives thereof, in particular C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, in particular C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, sea fennel, and plant extracts, including extracts of olive leaves and olive oil, as well as plants and their hydrolysates, such as rice protein hydrolysate or soy protein; algae extracts, especially laminaria, bacterial extracts, sapogenins, such as diosgenin, and extracts of yam plants, especially wild yam (containing α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid, and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid oligopeptides, and pseudodipeptides and their acyl derivatives, especially the acid {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl)-amino]-3-methyl}acetic acid), and lipopeptides sold by that company under the trade names SEDERMA Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene, manganese and magnesium salts, especially gluconate, and mixtures thereof.In at least one case, the cosmetic composition includes an adenosine derivative, such as a non-phosphate derivative of adenosine, such as, among others, 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-adenosine isopropoylidene; toyocamycine, 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside, and 6-chloropurine riboside. Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as adenosine phenylisopropyl ("PIA"), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-ethyl)phenethyl-amino-5'-N-ethylcarboxyamidoadenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxyamido-adenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxyamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD129·944), and metrifugil.
[0091] Skin active agent for oily skin The cosmetic composition may optionally contain a skin active agent for treating oily skin.These agents may be sebum regulators or antiseborrheic agents that can regulate the activity of sebaceous glands.Exemplary skin active agents for treating oily skin include retinoic acid, retinol, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine or) chloride, selenium, samphire--a blend of cinnamon extract, tea tree and octanoylglycine, such as Seppic 15 Sepicontrol A5 TEA--a mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine, especially commercially available under the trade name Sepicontrol A5 from Seppic; zinc salts, such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pyridolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate 20, zinc cysteine;- in particular copper and copper pydorate derivatives, such as Cuivridone Solabia; - extracts from the plants Arnica (Arnica montana), Cinchona succirubra, Clove (Eugenia caryophyllata), Hops (Humulus lupulus), St. John's wort (Hypericum perforatum), Mentha pipenta, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), Sage (Salvia officinalis) and Thymus vulgaris, all of which are commercially available from Maruzen Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.; - extracts of Spiraeaulmaria, for example, sold under the name Sebonormine by Silab; - algae Laminaria extracts of Sanguisorba officinalis (Sanguisorba officinalis) / Poterium officinale (Sanguisorba officinalis) root extract, ginger (Zingiber officinalis) rhizome and cassia (Cinnamomum cassia) bark extract, for example, sold by Solabia under the name Sebustop; extracts of linseed, for example, sold by Lucas Meyer under the name Linumine; extracts of Amur cork, for example, sold by Maruzen Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd. under the name Phellodendron extract BG or sold by Ichimaru Pharcos Co., Ltd. under the name Oubaku liquid B; extracts of Serenoa serrata (Serenoa serrata) serrulata (saw palmetto) extract and sesame seed extract mixed with argan oil, such as that sold under the name ReguSEB by Pentapharm, a mixture of extracts of red onion, myrobalan (Terminalia chebula), watercress, and bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as that sold under the name Seborilys Green Tech;extracts of Pygeum afrianum, such as those sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by Euromed; extracts of Serenoa serrulata, such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International and by Euromed; blends of plantain, Berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate 20 extracts, such as those sold under the name Seboclear Rahn; extracts of clove, such as those sold under the name Clove extract powder by Maruzen Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.; argan oil, such as those sold under the name Lipofructyl Laboratories Serobiologiques;25 - milk protein filtrates, such as those sold by Sederma under the name Noraseb; seaweed extracts, such as those sold by Biotech Marine under the name Laminarghane; oligosaccharides from the seaweed Laminaria digitata, such as those sold by Codif under the name Phycosaccharide 30 AC; sugarcane extracts, such as those sold by Sabinsa under the name Policosanol; sulfonated shale oils, such as those sold by Ichthyol under the name Ichtyol Pale; extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria), such as those sold by societeLibiol under the name Cytobiol. those sold under the name Ulmaire - sebacic acid, in particular in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel sold by Sederma under the name Sebosoft - glucomannan extracted from konjac tubers and modified with alkyl sulfonate chains, for example sold under the name Biopol Beta by Arch Chemical - extracts of Sophora angustifolia, for example sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by Bioland - extracts of red cinchona bark, for example sold under the name RedBark HS by Alban Müller - extracts of Quillaja saponaria, for example sold under the name 15Panamawood HS by Alban Müller - glycine grafted onto undecylene chains, for example Lipacide UG by SEPPIC OR - a mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, for example sold in gel form under the name AC.Net by Sederma; 20 - phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid - citrate tri (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM.ECI by Sasol;Trialkyl citrates (C14-C15) - mixed acids such as 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, including hydroxydecanoic October 25, sold by Sasol under the name COSMACOL.RTM.ECL, sebacic acid, and 1,10-decanediol, such as those sold by Vincience under the name Acnacidol BG, and mixtures thereof;
[0092] antioxidants Vitamin C and derivatives can be used, including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, and the fat-soluble esters tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, glucosamine ascorbate, ascorbyl acetate, etc. Additionally, extracts from plants containing high amounts of vitamin C, such as camu camu berry (Myrciaria dubia), acerola, and emblica officinalis, as well as bioflavonoids from rose hips and citrus fruits, can be used, as well as water-soluble bioflavonoids such as hesperidin methyl chalcone.
[0093] Sesame seeds (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignans may also be added. Sesame seeds and their lignans (fibrous compounds related to sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly increase vitamin E activity.
[0094] Other antioxidants include tocopherols (e.g., d-α-tocopherol, d-β-tocopherol, d-γ-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienols (e.g., d-α-tocotrienol, d-β-tocotrienol, d-γ-tocotrienol, d-delta-tocotrienol), and vitamin E (α-tocopherol acetate). These compounds may be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means, or mixtures thereof. Tocotrienol-enriched vitamin E preparations can be obtained by fractionating vitamin E preparations to remove a portion of the tocopherols and recovering a preparation with a higher concentration of tocotrienol. Useful tocotrienols are, for example, natural products isolated from wheat germ oil, cereals, or palm oil using high-performance liquid chromatography, or natural products isolated from barley, brewer's grain, or oats by alcohol extraction and / or molecular distillation. As used herein, the term "tocotrienol" includes the pure compounds as well as tocotrienol-rich fractions obtained from these natural products. Increased glutathione peroxidase activity protects the skin from oxidative damage.
[0095] Additionally, carotenoids, particularly xanthophyll carotenoids, are also useful antioxidants that can be used. Xanthophyll carotenoids include molecules such as lutein, canthaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin. Xanthophylls protect compounds such as vitamin A, vitamin E, and other carotenoids.
[0096] Flavonoids The skin active agent may be an antioxidant selected from the group of flavonoids. In some examples, the flavonoid is flavanone (a derivative of 2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include butin, eriodictyol, hesperetin, hesperidin, homoeriodictyol, isosakuranetin, naringenin, naringin, pinocembrin, poncirin, sakuranetin, sakuranin, and sterubin. The flavonoid may be flavanonol (a derivative of 3-hydroxy-2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavanols include taxifolin, aromadedrin, chrysandroside A, chrysandroside B, cuselactinol, astilbin, and fustin. The flavonoid may be flavone (a derivative of 2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include apigenin, luteolin, tangeritin, chrysin, baicalein, scutellarein, wogonin, and the synthetic flavones diosmin and flavoxate. Flavonoids may also be flavonols (derivatives of 3-hydroxy-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavonols include 3-hydroxyflavone, azaleatin, fisetin, galangin, gossypetin, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, morin, myricetin, natudaidine, pachypodol, quercetin, rhamnadin, rhamnetin, azalein, hyperoside, isoquercitin, kaempferitrin, myricitrin, quercitrin, robinin, rutin, spireoside, xanthamnin, amurensin, icariin, and troxerutin. The flavonoid may be flavan-3-ol (a derivative of 2-phenyl-3,4-dihydro-2H-chromen-3-ol). Flavan-3-ols include catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epiafzelechin, fisetinidol, giburtinidol, mesquitol, and robinetinidol. The flavonoid may be flavan-4-ol (a derivative of 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include apiforol and luteoforol.The flavonoid may be an isoflavone (a derivative of 3-phenylchromen-4-one). Isoflavones include genistein, daidzein, biochanin A, formononetin, and the equol metabolite from daidzein.
[0097] The antioxidant may be an anthocyanidin (a derivative of the 2-phenylchromenylium cation), which includes aurantidin, cyanidin, delphinidin, europinidin, luteolinidin, pelargonidin, malvidin, peonidin, petunidin, rosinidin, and xanthones.
[0098] The antioxidant may be a dihydrochalcone (a derivative of 1,3-diphenyl-1-propanone). Dihydrochalcones include phloretin, dihydrochalcone phloretin phloridzin, aspalathin, naringin dihydrochalcone, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, and nothofagin. Without being limited to the mechanism of action of the present invention, dihydrochalcones can exert their antioxidant effect by reducing reactive free radicals such as reactive oxygen and nitrogen species.
[0099] The antioxidant may be anthocyanin. Anthocyanin and its derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins comprise a class of flavonoid compounds, which are naturally occurring water-soluble compounds responsible for the red, purple, and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, grains, and flowers. Additionally, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. Inhibiting collagenase helps prevent and reduce wrinkles caused by a decrease in skin collagen, improve skin elasticity, and more. Anthocyanins can be obtained from any part of various plant sources, such as fruits, flowers, stems, leaves, roots, bark, or seeds. Those skilled in the art will understand that certain parts of plants may contain higher natural levels of anthocyanins, and therefore, these parts can be used to obtain the desired anthocyanins. In some examples, the antioxidant may include one or more betacyanins. Like anthocyanins, betacyanins can be obtained from natural sources and are antioxidants.
[0100] The antioxidant may be a phenylpropanoid (a derivative of cinnamic acid). Phenylpropanoids include cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including its antioxidant pharmacore 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone), 5-hydroxyferulic acid, sinapic acid, coumaryl alcohol, coniferyl alcohol, sinapyl alcohol, eugenol, chavicol, safrole, p-coumaric acid, and sinapic acid. Without limiting the mechanism of action of the present invention, phenylpropanoids can neutralize free radicals.
[0101] The antioxidant may be a chalcone (a derivative of 1,3-diphenyl-2-propen-1-one), including butein, okanin, carthamin, malein, sophorazine, xanthohumol, flavokvain A, flavokvain B, flavokvain C, and the synthetic Safalcone.
[0102] The antioxidant may be a curcuminoid. Curcuminoids include curcumin, desmethoxycurcumin, bis-desmethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrocurcumin, and tetrahydrocurcuminoids. Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids may be derived from the rhizome of turmeric (Curcuma longa). Tetrahydrocurcumin is a metabolic product of curcumin and has been shown to be a more potent antioxidant and more stable than curcumin.
[0103] The antioxidant may be a tannin, which includes tannin, terflavin B, glucogallin, D gallic acid, and quercitannic acid.
[0104] The antioxidant may be a stilbenoid. Stilbenoids include resveratrol, pterostilbene, and piceatannol. Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4'-trihydroxystilbene, 3,4,3',5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (piceatannol), 2,3',4,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (oxyresveratrol), 4,4'-dihydroxystilbene, and alpha and beta glucoside, galactoside, and mannoside derivatives thereof.
[0105] The antioxidant may be a coumarin (a derivative of 2H-chromen-2-one), which includes 4-hydroxycoumarin, umbelliferone, esculetin, helinialin, auraptene, and dicoumarol.
[0106] The antioxidant may be a carotenoid. Carotenoids include beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein, and idebenone. Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignans may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (fibrous compounds related to sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly enhance vitamin E activity.
[0107] Antioxidants include xanthone, butylated hydroxytoluene, 2,6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2,4-dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, gallic acid, eugenol, uric acid, alpha-lipoic acid, ellagic acid, chicoric acid, chlorogenic acid, rosmarinic acid, salicylic acid, acetylcysteine, S-allylcysteine, barbigeron, chebulagic acid, edaravone, ethoxyquin, glutathione, hydroxytyrosol, idebenone, melatonin, N-acetylserotonin, and nicotinamide. The antioxidant may be dihydroguaiaretic acid, oleocanthal, oleuropein, paradol, piceatannol, probucol, propyl gallate, protocatechuic acid, pyritinol, rutin, secoisolariciresinol diglucoside, sesamin, sesamol, silibinin, silymarin, theaflavin, theaflavin digallate, thmoquinone, trolox, tyrosol, polyunsaturated fatty acids, and sulfur-based antioxidants such as methionine or lipoic acid.
[0108] Chelating agents other than trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate The cosmetic composition may optionally contain a chelating agent in addition to the trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate described above. The amount of the chelating agent other than trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate present in the cosmetic composition may be, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, from about 0.25 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.25 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.25 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.25 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.25 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.25 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.25 to about 2% by weight, and the like, including ranges and subranges therebetween. It may be 0.25 to about 1% by weight; about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 1% by weight; about 0.75 to about 10% by weight, about 0.75 to about 8% by weight, about 0.75 to about 6% by weight, about 0.75 to about 5% by weight, about 0.75 to about 4% by weight, about 0.75 to about 3% by weight, about 0.75 to about 2% by weight; about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight, or about 1% to about 2% by weight.
[0109] Non-limiting examples of chemical chelating agents include aminotrimethylphosphonic acid, β-alanine diacetic acid, citric acid, cyclodextrin, cyclohexanediaminetetraacetic acid, diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonic acid, diethanolamine N-acetic acid, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA or YH4) and its sodium salts (YH3Na, Y2H2Na2, YHNa3, and YNa4), potassium salts (YH3K, Y2H3K3, and YK4), calcium disodium salt, and diammonium salt and its salt with triethanolamine (TEA-EDTA), etidronic acid, galactanic acid, hydroxyethylethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (HEDTA) and its trisodium salt, gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and its trisodium salt, pentetic acid, phytic acid, ribonic acid, diammonium citrate, disodium azacycloheptane diphosphonate, disodium pyrophosphate, pyrophoshate), hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, methyl cyclodextrin, pentapotassium triphosphate, pentasodium aminotrimethylenephosphonate, pentasodium ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, pentasodium pentetate, pentasodium triphosphate, potassium citrate, potassium EDTMP, sodium EDTMP, sodium chitosan methylenephosphonate, sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium metaphosphate, potassium polyphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate, sodium dihydroxyethyl glycinate, potassium gluconate, sodium gluconate, sodium glucopeptideExamples of iron chelators include iron chelators disclosed and claimed in International Patent Application WO 94 / 61338, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein for all purposes. Examples of biological chelators include metallothionein, transferrin, calmodulin, and sodium chitosan methylene phosphonate.
[0110] Nonionic emulsifiers other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate In some cases, the cosmetic composition may include a nonionic emulsifier in addition to polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate. The amount of nonionic emulsifier other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate may be, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, from about 0.1% by weight to about 20% by weight, from about 0.1% by weight to about 18% by weight, from about 0.1% by weight to about 16% by weight, from about 0.1% by weight to about 14% by weight, from about 0.1% by weight to about 12% by weight, from about 0.1% by weight to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1% by weight to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1% by weight to about 7% by weight, from about 0.1% by weight to about 6% by weight, and the like, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. 5% by weight; about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 18% by weight, about 1 to about 16% by weight, about 1 to about 14% by weight, about 1 to about 12% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 7% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight; about 4 to about 20% by weight, about 4 to about 18% by weight, about 4 to about 16% by weight, about 4 to about 14% by weight, about 4 to about 12% by weight, about 4 to about 10% by weight, about 4 to about 8% by weight, or about 4% to about 7% by weight.
[0111] Emulsifiers are typically used to incorporate oils and / or fatty compounds into hydrophilic media, such as aqueous media, to form oil-in-water emulsions. However, in some instances, emulsifiers can be used to incorporate a hydrophilic phase (e.g., aqueous media) into an oil or fatty phase to form water-in-oil emulsions. The cosmetic composition comprises one or more nonionic emulsifiers. However, additional emulsifiers, such as amphoteric, anionic, and / or cationic emulsifiers, can also be included (or excluded).
[0112] In the case of O / W emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include nonionic emulsifiers, such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof. A more comprehensive but non-limiting list of useful nonionic emulsifiers is given below under the heading "Nonionic Emulsifiers".
[0113] In some cases, cosmetic compositions containing natural oils contain two or more nonionic emulsifiers, particularly one or more nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB of 10 or greater and one or more nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB of 5 or less. The total amount of these emulsifiers can be such that the final HLB of the hair treatment composition is within + / - 0.5 of the HLB of the natural oil in the cosmetic composition. This typically results in a final HLB of the emulsified natural oil in the hair treatment composition ranging from about 6 to about 8.
[0114] Examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include nonionic emulsifiers, such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof.
[0115] Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers include polyglyceryl-based emulsifiers, polyol esters, glycerol ethers, oxyethylenated ethers, oxypropylenated ethers, ethylene glycol polymers, sorbitan esters, polysorbates, and mixtures thereof. In some examples, the one or more nonionic emulsifiers are selected from polyglyceryl 10-stearate, polyglyceryl-3-caprate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, or mixtures thereof.
[0116] pH adjuster The cosmetic composition may contain one or more pH adjusters to increase or decrease the overall pH of the cosmetic composition. For example, one or more acids may be included to decrease the pH of the cosmetic composition. Examples of suitable acids for decreasing the pH of the cosmetic composition include, but are not limited to, citric acid, acetic acid, etc. The cosmetic composition may contain one or more bases, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, etc. Suitable additional or alternative acids and bases for adjusting the pH of the cosmetic composition are readily known to those skilled in the art.
[0117] The cosmetic composition may desirably have a pH of about 4 to about 7, preferably about 4.5 to about 6.5, or about 5.5 to about 6.5. In one example, the pH of the cosmetic composition is 6 or about 6. The amount of pH adjuster in the cosmetic composition may be based on the desired pH of the final cosmetic composition and / or product. For example, the total amount of pH adjuster may range from about 0.05% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some examples, the total amount of pH adjuster is about 0.05% to about 15% by weight, about 0.5% to about 10% by weight, about 1% to about 5% by weight, about 1.5% to about 4% by weight, or about 2.0% to about 3% by weight, including ranges and subranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0118] water The total amount of water in the cosmetic composition can vary, but is typically from about 50% to about 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some examples, the total amount of water is, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, about 50% to about 90% by weight, about 50 to about 85% by weight, about 50 to about 80% by weight; about 55 to about 95% by weight, about 55 to about 90% by weight, about 55 to about 85% by weight, about 55 to about 80% by weight; about 60 to about 95% by weight, about 60 to about 90% by weight, about 60 to about 85% by weight, about 60 to about 80% by weight; about 65 to about 95% by weight, about 65 to about 90% by weight, about 65 to about 85% by weight, or about 65 to about 80% by weight; about 70 to about 95% by weight, about 70 to about 90% by weight, about 70 to about 85% by weight, or about 70 to about 80% by weight, including ranges and subranges therebetween.
[0119] Manufacturing method The present disclosure also relates to methods or processes for making / producing the cosmetic compositions described herein, and includes products prepared by these methods or processes.
[0120] The process for making certain embodiments of the cosmetic composition includes forming an oil phase and a separate aqueous phase (containing water), heating both phases, and combining them while warm. Each phase may be heated to the same temperature or to different temperatures.
[0121] Thickener can be added to the aqueous phase of cosmetic composition.However, in some examples, one or more emulsifiers and / or thickeners are added to the oil phase.In addition, or alternatively, thickener can be added after emulsification, for example, ammonium polyacryloydimethyl taurate can be added after emulsification.
[0122] After combining oil phase and aqueous phase to form emulsion, the composition is typically cooled.Additional ingredients can be added at the time of emulsification, or can be added after emulsification.For example, certain perfumes, coloring agents, skin rubs, active ingredients, etc. can be added to aqueous phase, fatty phase, or can be added after emulsification.
[0123] How to use The present disclosure also relates to methods of using the cosmetic compositions described herein. For example, the cosmetic compositions can be used in methods that include applying the cosmetic compositions to human skin. In some cases, the compositions are applied to the face. Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions can be used in methods for treating and / or repairing damage to the skin (e.g., damage caused by photoaging), and methods for reducing the appearance of wrinkles, age spots, and uneven skin texture. The aforementioned methods are non-therapeutic.
[0124] The cosmetic composition can be applied once a day, twice a day, or more than once or twice a day.In some cases, the composition is applied at night before going to bed.In other cases, the composition is applied in the morning.In still other cases, the composition can be applied immediately after cleansing the skin.The composition can be used once, or can be used continuously for several days, weeks, or months.For example, the composition can be used daily for 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 weeks or more, or for several months.
[0125] Embodiment In certain embodiments, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure typically comprise: - from about 0.01% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 2.5% by weight; more preferably from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight of retinol; - from about 0.01% to about 1% by weight, preferably from about 0.01% to about 0.8% by weight, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.8% by weight of tetradi-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate; - from about 0.01% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 2.5% by weight; more preferably from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; - from about 0.5% to about 7%, preferably from about 0.75% to about 6%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 5% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate; - about 0.9% to about 7% by weight, preferably about 1% to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 1% to about 5% by weight of sodium polyacrylate; - from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 6% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight of silicone or an oil phase comprising at least one of palm oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jellyfish oil, mustard oil, linseed oil, shepherd's purse oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, apricot kernel oil, pistachio oil, poppy seed oil, pine oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, rapeseed oil, juniper oil, peach kernel oil, coffee bean oil, jojoba oil, or mixtures thereof; and water, preferably from about 50% to about 95% by weight of water, more preferably from about 60% to about 95% by weight of water, wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0126] In a further embodiment, (i) a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, - from about 0.01% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 2.5% by weight; more preferably from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight of retinol; - about 0.01% to about 1% by weight, preferably about 0.01% to about 0.8% by weight, more preferably about 0.05% to about 0.8% by weight of tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate; - from about 0.01% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 2.5% by weight; more preferably from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; - from about 0.5% to about 7%, preferably from about 0.75% to about 6%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 5% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate; - about 0.9% to about 7% by weight, preferably about 1% to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 1% to about 5% by weight of sodium polyacrylate; - from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 6% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight of silicone or an oil phase comprising at least one of palm oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jellyfish oil, mustard oil, linseed oil, shepherd's purse oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, apricot kernel oil, pistachio oil, poppy seed oil, pine oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, rapeseed oil, juniper oil, peach kernel oil, coffee bean oil, jojoba oil, or mixtures thereof; and - a cosmetic composition comprising water, preferably from about 50% to about 95% by weight of water, more preferably from about 60% to about 95% by weight of water; and (ii) Containers containing cosmetic compositions, including non-protective packaging, such as those without an aluminum layer and / or those with a pump for dispensing the cosmetic composition. Products including:
[0127] In a further embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure typically comprise: - from about 0.01% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 2.5% by weight; more preferably from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight of retinol; - about 0.01% to about 1% by weight, preferably about 0.01% to about 0.8% by weight, more preferably about 0.05% to about 0.8% by weight of tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate; - from about 0.01% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 2.5% by weight; more preferably from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; - from about 0.5% to about 7%, preferably from about 0.75% to about 6%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 5% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate; - about 0.9% to about 7% by weight, preferably about 1% to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 1% to about 5% by weight of sodium polyacrylate; - from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 6% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight of silicone or an oil phase comprising at least one of palm oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jellyfish oil, mustard oil, linseed oil, shepherd's purse oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, apricot kernel oil, pistachio oil, poppy seed oil, pine oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, rapeseed oil, juniper oil, peach kernel oil, coffee bean oil, jojoba oil, or mixtures thereof; water, preferably from about 50% to about 95% by weight of water, more preferably from about 60% to about 95% by weight of water; optionally, from about 0.05% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 3%, by weight of a thickener that is not a sodium polyacrylate, such as selected from ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamide, carbomer, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof; optionally, from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.25% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 6% by weight of a matting agent, such as aluminum starch octenyl succinate; optionally from about 1% to about 30%, preferably from about 5% to about 25%, more preferably from about 10% to about 20% by weight of a polyol, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyethylene glycol or mixtures thereof; optionally, a skin active agent in an amount of up to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.05% to about 5% by weight, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 4% by weight, such as selected from hyaluronic acid, lanolin, niacinamide, citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, retinoids, retinal, retinol, adenosine, sodium hyaluronate, retinoic acid, carotenoids, panthenol, amino acids, proteins, enzymes, coenzymes, and mixtures thereof, and wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. [Example]
[0128] The following examples are provided primarily for the purpose of illustrating the benefits achieved by embodiments of the present disclosure. The examples serve to illustrate the technology and are not necessarily limiting in any way.
[0129] TIFF0007735334000002.tif188170
[0130] Example 2 Example Composition A and eight commercial benchmarks (Commercial Benchmark BI) were placed in opaque containers and stored in a controlled environment chamber to determine the stability of retinol over an eight-week period. The controlled environment chamber was set at a temperature of 45°C. Example Composition A was stored in a container that dispensed the composition using a standard pump (stored in a container with a removable top lid equipped with a standard cosmetic pump). The containers and residual retinol amounts of the eight commercial benchmarks are shown in the table below.
[0131] Example Composition A and the commercial benchmark BI were evaluated for residual retinol content after storage using high-performance liquid chromatography. High-performance liquid chromatography was performed using a Kinetex XB C-18 column with a mobile phase of 25% methanol and 75% ACN at a flow rate of 2 mL / min and a temperature of 45°C. The detector was a UV / Vis detector. The high-performance liquid chromatograph evaluated 10 μL of sample at a scan wavelength of 250 nm to 400 nm during a 6-minute scan run. TIFF0007735334000003.tif123170
[0132] The term "INCI" stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, a system of names for personal care ingredients established by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council.
[0133] As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include all specific ranges within a given range and combinations of subranges between the given ranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes subranges such as 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc.
[0134] All ingredients and elements that are affirmatively recited in this disclosure may be passively excluded from the claims. In other words, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be free of, or essentially free of, all ingredients and elements that are affirmatively recited throughout this disclosure.
[0135] In some examples, the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure may be substantially free of non-incidental amounts of the ingredients or compounds described herein. A non-incidental amount of an ingredient or compound is the amount of that ingredient or compound that is added to the cosmetic composition alone. For example, the cosmetic composition may be substantially free of non-incidental amounts of such ingredients or compounds, even though such ingredients or compounds may be present as part of an ingredient that is included as a blend of two or more compounds.
[0136] Some of the various categories of identified ingredients may overlap. Thus, overlap may exist, and if a composition includes both ingredients (or if a composition includes more than two overlapping ingredients), the overlapping compounds do not represent more than one ingredient. For example, tocopherol may be characterized as both a skin active agent and a preservative. If a particular composition includes both a skin active agent and a preservative, steareth-20 may function only as a skin active agent or only as a preservative (tocopherol does not function as both a skin active agent and a preservative).
[0137] All publications and patent applications cited herein are hereby incorporated by reference and for any and all purposes as if each individual publication or patent application was specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of a conflict between the present disclosure and a publication or patent application incorporated by reference herein, the present disclosure shall control.
[0138] As used herein, the terms "comprising," "having," and "including" are used in their open, non-limiting sense.
[0139] The terms "a," "an," and "the" are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular. Thus, the term "a mixture there of" also relates to "mixtures there of." Throughout this disclosure, the term "mixtures there of" is used following a list of elements, as shown in the following example, where the letters A through F represent elements: "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and mixtures thereof." The term "mixtures of these" does not require that the mixture contain all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although it may contain all of A, B, C, D, E, and F). Rather, it indicates that the mixture can contain a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F. In other words, it is equivalent to the expression "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and mixtures of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F."
[0140] The phrase "one or more" means "at least one" and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0141] Other than in the working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions can be modified in all instances by the term "about," meaning within + / - 5% of the indicated number.
[0142] As used herein, the term "treating" (and grammatical variations thereof) refers to applying a composition of the present disclosure to the surface of a keratinous substrate, such as hair, on the head and / or body of a user.
[0143] As used herein, the terms "substantially free" or "essentially free" mean that less than about 2% by weight of a particular material is added to the composition, based on the total weight of the composition. Nevertheless, the composition may contain less than about 1% by weight, less than about 0.5% by weight, less than about 0.1% by weight, or no particular material at all. All components described herein may be optionally included or excluded from the composition / method / kit. If excluded, the composition / method / kit may not contain or essentially be free of that component. For example, a particular composition may not contain or essentially be free of silicone.
Claims
1. (a) 0.01% to 3% by weight of retinol; (b) 0.01% to 1% by weight of pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate; (c) 0.01% to 3% by weight of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; (d) 0.5% to 7% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate; (e) 0.9% to 7% by weight of sodium polyacrylate; (f) 0.5% to 7% by weight of an oil phase; and (g) water 1. A cosmetic composition comprising: a cosmetic composition comprising an oil-in-water emulsion, wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the oil phase comprises a silicone.
3. 10. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the oil phase comprises coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jellyfish oil, mustard oil, linseed oil, shepherd's purse oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, apricot kernel oil, pistachio oil, poppy seed oil, pine oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grapeseed oil, rapeseed oil, juniper oil, peach kernel oil, coffee bean oil, jojoba oil, or a mixture thereof.
4. 4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil phase comprises a fatty acid ester that is not polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate.
5. 5. The cosmetic composition of claim 4, wherein the fatty acid ester is selected from isononyl isononanoate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, and mixtures thereof.
6. 10. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, further comprising: (h) 0.05% to 5% by weight of a thickener that is not sodium polyacrylate.
7. 4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate to the total amount of sodium polyacrylate is from 1:1 to 1:
5.
8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising (i) 0.1% to 10% by weight of a mattifying agent.
9. The cosmetic composition of claim 8 , wherein the mattifying agent comprises aluminum starch octenyl succinate.
10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising (j) 1% to 30% by weight of a polyol.
11. 11. The cosmetic composition of claim 10, wherein the polyol is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
12. 4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising: (k) 0.05% to 5% by weight of a skin active agent, 1. A cosmetic composition wherein the skin active agent is selected from hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, lanolin, citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, retinoids, retinal, retinol, adenosine, sodium hyaluronate, retinoic acid, carotenoids, panthenol, amino acids, proteins, enzymes, coenzymes, and mixtures thereof.
13. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , which is tocopherol-free.
14. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , which is free of ascorbyl palmitate.
15. (I) A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: (a) 0.01% to 3% by weight of retinol; (b) 0.01% to 1% by weight of pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate; (c) 0.01% to 3% by weight of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; (d) 0.5% to 7% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate; (e) 0.9% to 7% by weight of sodium polyacrylate; (f) 0.5% to 7% by weight of an oil phase; and (g) water wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and (II) A container containing a cosmetic composition Cosmetics, including:
16. The cosmetic product according to claim 15, wherein the container does not contain an aluminum layer.
17. 17. The cosmetic product according to claim 15 or 16, wherein the composition does not phase separate and retains at least 85% by weight of retinol after storage at 45°C for 8 weeks.
18. 17. The cosmetic product according to claim 15 or 16, wherein the composition does not yellow after storage at 45°C for 8 weeks.
19. (a) 0.01% to 3% by weight of retinol; (b) 0.01% to 1% by weight of pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate; (c) 0.01% to 3% by weight of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; (d) 0.5% to 7% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate; (e) 0.9% to 7% by weight of sodium polyacrylate; (f) 0.5% to 7% by weight of an oil phase; (g) water; (h) optionally, 0.05% to 5% by weight of a thickener that is not sodium polyacrylate; (i) optionally, 0.1% to 10% by weight of a matting agent; (j) optionally, 1% to 30% by weight of a polyol; and (k) optionally, a skin active agent in an amount of up to 5% by weight; A cosmetic composition comprising:
1. A cosmetic composition which is an oil-in-water emulsion, wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and wherein the skin active agent is selected from hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, lanolin, citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, retinoids, retinal, retinol, adenosine, sodium hyaluronate, retinoic acid, carotenoids, panthenol, amino acids, proteins, enzymes, coenzymes, and mixtures thereof.
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