Anhydrous composition for topical use in the form of a dispersed phase based on at least one short-chain diol in a continuous fatty phase - Patent Application 20070122997

Abstract

A composition (E1) for topical use comprising a gelled phase (A1) dispersed in a continuous phase (A2), wherein the gelled phase (A1) comprises at least one diol having 3 to 8 atoms and has the formula (Ia): R a 1-C(R b 1)(OH)-C(OH)(R c 1)(R d 1) (Ia) (wherein each of the radicals Ra1, Rb1, Rc1 and Rd1 independently represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated aliphatic radical having 1 to 5 carbon atoms), or formula (Ib): R a 1-C(R b 1)(OH)-[C(R e 1)(R f 1)]tC(OH)(R c 1)(R d 1) (Ib) (wherein t is equal to 1, 2, or 3; R a 1. R b 1. R c 1. R d 1. R e 1 and R f each of the radicals independently represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated aliphatic radical having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and R a 1 or R b At least one of the radicals and / or R c 1 or R d It is understood that at least one of the radicals does not represent a hydrogen atom, and the fatty phase (A2) comprises at least one oil, at least one emulsifying surfactant system (S1) and at least one emulsifying surfactant (S2).

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a novel composition in the form of a dispersion of a gelled phase in an oily phase, comprising at least one diol of 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and also its use in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, the textile industry and the paper industry. [Background technology]

[0002] The cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical and pharmaceutical compositions may be in the form of aqueous solutions, emulsions and powders.

[0003] An emulsion is an initially heterogeneous mixture of two immiscible liquid substances, referred to as "phases." The mixture is made macroscopically homogeneous by external manipulation, such as mechanical stirring at a suitable speed and mobility, or the addition of an amphiphilic substance called a surfactant. When it assumes a macroscopically homogeneous form, the mixture consists of a discontinuous phase dispersed in another phase, referred to as the "continuous phase."

[0004] Emulsions are a particularly preferred form, as they allow the delivery of both water-soluble and fat-soluble substances, which are often used in these applications. A distinction is made between oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, in which the continuous phase consists of a hydrophilic phase (generally an aqueous phase) and the dispersed phase consists of a lipophilic fatty phase, and water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, in which the continuous phase consists of a lipophilic fatty phase and the dispersed phase consists of a hydrophilic phase (generally an aqueous phase).

[0005] Oil-in-water emulsions are inherently more stable than water-in-oil emulsions; however, water-in-oil emulsions have several advantages. Specifically, the distance between water droplets reduces the possibility of microbial growth. Furthermore, the use of preservatives, which is essential when the continuous phase is aqueous, can be avoided or reduced when the continuous phase is fatty. Water-in-oil emulsions are much less sensitive to low temperatures than oil-in-water emulsions. Finally, with regard to topical application for cosmetic purposes, European Patent Application Published under the number EP 1961455 A1 discloses that after application of a water-in-oil emulsion, the oily continuous phase can cover the skin, thereby forming a long-lasting oily film that protects the skin from dryness and against external substances, thereby treating dry skin.

[0006] The solutions proposed in the prior art for preparing dermatological emulsions in water-in-oil form are unsatisfactory because the silicone derivatives used are either volatile and can have harmful effects with respect to the environment and the user, or they are not very volatile and give unpleasant sensory properties after topical application, such as a sticky feeling on the skin.

[0007] EP 1 459 801 A2 and WO 2014 / 167200 A1 disclose the preparation of water-in-oil emulsions containing 60% to 98% by weight of a gelled aqueous phase due to the presence of cross-linked polyelectrolytes therein, thereby partially resolving the technical problem. Indeed, the resulting water-in-oil emulsions are characterized by good persistence when applied to the skin and can be resistant to sweat, bath water, or rainwater. However, in order to improve persistence, research is being conducted to prepare galenic formulations that are even more resistant to water and sweat, and are also capable of carrying some cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients that are either partially insoluble or unstable in aqueous media. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0008] This is why the inventors sought to develop a new emulsion in which the continuous phase is oily and the dispersed phase is polar but non-aqueous, without added water, which does not exhibit the drawbacks described above and which remains homogeneous after storage at ambient temperature (above 20°C and below 25°C) and at 45°C for at least 3 months. [Means for solving the problem]

[0009] The solution of the present invention is a composition (E1) for topical use that does not contain added water and that comprises a gelled phase (A1) dispersed in a continuous phase (A2), the gelling phase (A1) comprises at least one diol selected from 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 2,3-pentanediol, 2,3-hexanediol, 2,5-hexanediol or 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, and a composition (E1) in which the fatty phase (A2) comprises at least one oil, at least one emulsifying surfactant (S1) and at least one emulsifying surfactant (S2).

[0010] Preferably, the composition (E1) contains, per 100% of its weight: - 60% to 98% by weight, preferably 60% to 95% by weight, and even more preferentially 60% to 90% by weight, of gelling phase (A1), and - from 2% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, and even more preferentially from 10% to 40% by weight of a fatty phase (A2) Includes.

[0011] The emulsifying surfactant (S1) is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyglycoside compositions and compositions of alkyl polyglycosides and fatty alcohols, and the emulsifying surfactant (S2) is preferably selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol esters, alkoxylated polyglycerol esters, polyglycol polyhydroxystearates, polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates and alkoxylated polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates.

[0012] The expression "for topical use" used in the definition of the composition (E1) according to the invention, in the form of a dispersion of the gelled phase (A1) in the continuous phase (A2) and as defined above, means that said composition (E1) is used by application to the skin, hair, scalp or lips, regardless of whether this is a direct application, as in the case of a cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition, or an indirect application, for example in the case of a personal hygiene product in the form of a wipe or paper or a health care product intended to come into contact with the skin or lips.

[0013] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "gelled phase (A1)" refers to a homogeneous phase characterized in that the dynamic viscosity of said phase (A1), measured at a temperature of 20°C using a Brookfield LVT viscometer at a speed of 6 revolutions per minute, is greater than or equal to 1000 mPa.s and less than or equal to 100,000 mPa.s, more particularly greater than or equal to 10,000 mPa.s and less than or equal to 100,000 mPa.s.

[0014] In some cases, the compositions according to the invention may exhibit one or more of the following characteristics: the gelling phase (A1) comprises, per 100% of its weight, 0.5% to 10% by weight of a crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1) and 90% to 99.5% by weight of at least one diol chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 2,3-pentanediol, 2,3-hexanediol, 2,5-hexanediol or 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol; It should be noted that preferably, the gelling phase (A1) comprises, per 100% of its weight, 0.5% to 8.5% by weight, more particularly 0.5% to 7% by weight, of crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1) and 91.5% to 99.5% by weight, more particularly 93% to 99.5% by weight, of at least one diol chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 2,3-pentanediol, 2,3-hexanediol, 2,5-hexanediol or 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol; the diols are selected from 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol or 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol; - the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1) comprises a proportion of monomer units deriving from 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in free acid or partially or completely salified form of 25 mol% or more; the emulsifying surfactant (S1) has the formula (VII): R1-O-(G)xH (VII) wherein x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents a glucosyl or α,β-D-glucopyranosyl radical (obtained by removal of the hemiacetal hydroxyl group from α,β-D-glucopyranose), and R1 represents a radical selected from the group consisting of the radicals n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl, and n-behenyl, and at least one alkyl polyglycoside composition (C1) represented by the formulas (VII1), (VII2), (VII3), (VII4), and (VII5): R1-O-(G)1-H (VII1) R1-O-(G)2-H (VII2) R1-O-(G)3-H (VII3) R1-O-(G)4-H (VII4) R1-O-(G)5-H (VII5) in respective molar ratios of a1, a2, a3, a4, and a5 such that the sum of a1+a2+a3+a4+a5 equals 1 and the sum of a1+2a2+3a3+4a4+5a5 equals x; The emulsifying surfactant (S1) is, per 100% of its weight, □Formula (VII): R1-O-(G)xH (VII) wherein x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents a glucosyl or α,β-D-glucopyranosyl radical (obtained by removal of the hemiacetal hydroxyl group from α,β-D-glucopyranose), and R1 represents a radical selected from the group consisting of radicals: n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl, and n-behenyl, and 10% to 50% by weight of at least one alkyl polyglycoside composition (C1), the composition being represented by the formulas (VII1), (VII2), (VII3), (VII4), and (VII5): R1-O-(G)1-H (VII1) R1-O-(G)2-H (VII2) R1-O-(G)3-H (VII3) R1-O-(G)4-H (VII4) R1-O-(G)5-H (VII5) in respective molar ratios of a1, a2, a3, a4, and a5 such that the sum of a1+a2+a3+a4+a5 equals 1 and the sum of a1+2a2+3a3+4a4+5a5 equals x; □Formula (VIII): R''1-OH (VIII) wherein R"1 represents a radical selected from the group consisting of the radicals n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl and n-behenyl, where R"1 may be identical to or different from R1, and 90% to 50% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol; at least one composition (C2) comprising: the emulsifying surfactant (S1) is of formula (IX): R1-O-(G) x -H (IX) wherein x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents a xylose residue, and R1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical, at least one alkyl polyglycoside composition (C'1) (said composition (C'1) is represented by the formulas (IX1), (IX2), (IX3), (IX4) and (IX5): R1-O-(G)1-H (IX1) R1-O-(G)2-H (IX2) R1-O-(G)3-H (IX3) R1-O-(G)4-H (IX4) R1-O-(G)5-H (IX5) in respective molar ratios of a1, a2, a3, a4, and a5 such that the sum of a1+a2+a3+a4+a5 equals 1 and the sum of a1+2a2+3a3+4a4+5a5 equals x; The emulsification system (S) comprises, per 100% by weight: □Formula (X): R1-O-(G) x -H (X) wherein x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents a xylose residue, and R1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical; and 10% by weight to 50% by weight of at least one alkyl polyglycoside composition (C'1) (the composition is represented by the formulas (X1), (X2), (X3), (X4), and (X5): R1-O-(G)1-H (X1) R1-O-(G)2-H (X2) R1-O-(G)3-H (X3) R1-O-(G)4-H (X4) R1-O-(G)5-H (X5) in respective molar ratios of a1, a2, a3, a4, and a5 such that the sum of a1+a2+a3+a4+a5 equals 1 and the sum of a1+2a2+3a3+4a4+5a5 equals x; □Formula (XI): R'''1-OH (XI) wherein R'''1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical, and Composition (C'2) comprising: the emulsifying surfactant (S2) has the formula (XII): [ka] (wherein y2 represents an integer of 2 or more and 50 or less, R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical, or an ethyl radical, and Z2 represents a group represented by formula (XIII): [ka] (wherein y'2 represents an integer between 0 and 10, more particularly between 1 and 10), and Z'2 represents a radical of formula (XIII) as defined above (wherein Z'2 may be identical to or different from Z2) or a hydrogen atom); said composition (E1) for topical use comprises one or more auxiliary compounds chosen from foaming and / or detergent surfactants, thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickening and / or gelling agents, stabilizers, film-forming compounds, solvents and cosolvents, hydrotropes, plasticizers, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers, opacifiers, self-tanning agents, pearlizing agents, superfatting agents, sequestrants, chelating agents, antioxidants, fragrances, essential oils, preservatives, conditioning agents, deodorizing agents, bleaching agents intended to bleach body hair and skin, active ingredients intended to provide a treating and / or protective action on the skin or hair, sunscreens, inorganic fillers or pigments, particles imparting a visual effect or intended to encapsulate active agents, exfoliating particles, texturing agents, optical brighteners and insect repellents. Generally, the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention may comprise excipients and / or active ingredients commonly used in the field of formulations for topical use, in particular cosmetic, dermocosmetics, pharmaceutical or dermopharmaceutical use; The composition contains one or more self-tanning agents in a proportion of 0.5% to 10% by weight per 100% of its weight. Preferably, the self-tanning agents are selected from the group consisting of dihydroxyacetone, erythrose, glyceraldehyde, isatin, alloxan, ninhydrin, and mesotartaric aldehyde, preferably dihydroxyacetone and erythrose. The composition containing a self-tanning agent is therefore preferably used for artificially tanning and / or browning human skin, and the subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic treatment method for artificially tanning and / or browning human skin, comprising at least one step of applying the above-described composition (E1) to the human skin.

[0015] A subject of the present invention is also the use of a composition (E1) as defined above for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, hair, scalp and / or lips.

[0016] Preferably, said composition (E1) will be a composition for cleansing, protecting or caring for the skin, hair, scalp or lips. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0017] Preferably, the fatty phase (A2) comprises, per 100% of its weight: - 1.25% to 25% by weight, more particularly 1.25% to 20% by weight, of an emulsification system (S) comprising, per 100% by weight of said emulsification system (S), 12% to 88% by weight, more particularly 15% to 85% by weight, even more particularly 20% to 85% by weight, of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S1), and 12% to 88% by weight, more particularly 15% to 85% by weight, even more particularly 20% to 85% by weight, of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S2); 75% to 98.75% by weight, more particularly 80% to 98.75% by weight, even more particularly 82% to 98.75% by weight of at least one oil, and optionally at least one wax Includes.

[0018] The term "oil" refers to compounds and / or mixtures of compounds that are insoluble in water and liquid at 25°C, more specifically: - straight-chain alkanes containing 11 to 19 carbon atoms; Branched alkanes containing 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as isododecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isoheptadecane, isooctadecane, isononadecane or isoeicosane, or mixtures thereof, such as those listed below and their INCI names: 7~8 Isoparaffin, C 8~9 Isoparaffin, C 9~11 Isoparaffin, C 9~12 Isoparaffin, C 9~13 Isoparaffin, C 9~14 Isoparaffin, C 9~16 Isoparaffin, C 10~11 Isoparaffin, C 10~12 Isoparaffin, C 10~13 Isoparaffin, C 11~12 Isoparaffin, C11~13 Isoparaffin, C 11~14 Isoparaffin, C 12~14 Isoparaffin, C 12~20 Isoparaffin, C 13~14 Isoparaffin, C 13~16 such as those identified by isoparaffins; - cycloalkanes optionally substituted with one or more linear or branched alkyl radicals; white mineral oils, for example the products sold under the following names: Marcol® 52, Marcol® 82, Drakeol® 6VR, Eolane® 130 or Eolane® 150; hemisqualane (i.e. 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane; CAS number: 3891-98-3), squalane (i.e. 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane), hydrogenated polyisobutene, or hydrogenated polydecene; mixtures of alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, the alkanes being linear alkanes, branched alkanes and cycloalkanes, more particularly mixtures (M1) containing, per 100% of their weight, a weight proportion of branched alkanes of 90% to 100%; a weight proportion of linear alkanes of 0% to 9%, more particularly less than 5%, and a weight proportion of cycloalkanes of 0% to 1%, for example the mixtures sold under the names Emogreen® L15 or Emogreen® L19; fatty alcohol ethers of formula (II): Z1-O-Z2(II) (wherein Z1 and Z2, which may be the same or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl radical containing 5 to 18 carbon atoms, such as dioctyl ether, didecyl ether, didecyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, dihexadecyl ether, (1,3-dimethylbutyl)tetradecyl ether, (1,3-dimethylbutyl)hexadecyl ether, bis(1,3-dimethylbutyl)ether, or dihexyl ether); monoesters of fatty acids and alcohols of formula (III): R'1-(C=O)-O-R'2(III) wherein R'1-(C=O) represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acyl radical containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and R'2, independently of R'1, represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 24 carbon atoms, such as methyl laurate, ethyl laurate, propyl laurate, isopropyl laurate, butyl laurate, 2-butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, methyl cocoate, ethyl cocoate, propyl cocoate, isopropyl cocoate, butyl cocoate, 2-butyl cocoate, hexyl cocoate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, 2-butyl myristate, hexyl myristate, octyl myristate, palmitic acid Methyl, ethyl palmitate, propyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, 2-butyl palmitate, hexyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, methyl oleate, ethyl oleate, propyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, butyl oleate, 2-butyl oleate, hexyl oleate, octyl oleate, methyl stearate, ethyl stearate, propyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, 2-butyl stearate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, methyl isostearate, ethyl isostearate, propyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, 2-butyl isostearate, hexyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate; diesters of fatty acids and glycerol of formula (IV) and formula (V): R'3-(C=O)-O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O-(C=O)-R'4(IV) R'5-(C=O)-O-CH2-CH[O-(C=O)-R'6]-CH2-OH(V) (wherein R'3-(C=O), R'4-(C=O), R'5-(C=O), and R'6-(C=O) of formulas (IV) and (V), which may be the same or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acyl group containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms; triesters of fatty acids and glycerol of formula (VI): R'7-(C=O)-O-CH2-CH[O-(C=O)-R''8]-CH2-O-(C=O)-R''9(VI) (wherein R'7-(C=O), R'8-(C=O), and R'9-(C=O), which may be the same or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched acyl group containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms). vegetable oils, such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut kernel oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kukui oil, passion flower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, beauty-leaf oil, sisymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula oil, oils derived from flowers or vegetables; -Ethoxylated vegetable oils.

[0019] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil selected from the group consisting of castor oil, liquid paraffin, caprylic / capric cocoate, isopropyl myristate, and capric / caprylic triglyceride.

[0020] The fatty phase (A2) optionally comprises a wax, more particularly selected from beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone wax; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids that are solid at ambient temperature; and glycerides that are solid at ambient temperature.

[0021] In the definition of the composition for topical use (E1), which is the subject of the present invention, the term "crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1)" denotes a non-linear crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte in the form of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but swellable in water, resulting in the formation of a chemical gel.

[0022] Preferably, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1) comprises, per 100 mol %, (a1) - a proportion of monomer units derived from 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in the free acid or in partially or completely salified form of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid of 25% by mol or more and 100% by mol or less; (a2) - optionally a proportion of more than 0 mol% and not more than 75 mol% of monomer units obtained from at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide; methacrylamide, or N-isopropylacrylamide; (a3) - optionally, a proportion of greater than 0 mol% and less than or equal to 20 mol%, more specifically greater than 0 mol% and less than or equal to 15 mol%, even more specifically greater than or equal to 0 mol% and less than or equal to 10 mol%, of monomer units obtained from at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylate, and vinylpyrrolidone; (a4)—Optionally, greater than 0 mol % and less than or equal to 75 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, 2-carboxyethylacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, and 3-methyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]butanoic acid, wherein the carboxy group of said monomer is in the free acid, partially salified, or fully salified form. (a5) optionally, a proportion of more than 0 mol% and not more than 5 mol% of formula (M1): [ka] At least one monomer of (wherein R represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer of 0 or more and 20 or less); (a6) - a proportion of monomer units derived from at least one diethylene or polyethylene crosslinking monomer (AR) greater than 0 mol % and less than or equal to 1 mol %; the sum of said molar proportions of monomer units according to a1), a2), a3), a4), a5), and a6) is equal to 100 mol %.

[0023] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "salified" means that the acid functional group present in the monomer has been converted into a salt, in particular an alkali metal salt, such as a sodium or potassium cation, or, for example, a nitrogenous basic cation, such as an ammonium salt, a lysine salt or a monoethanolamine salt (HOCH-CH-NH + ) in anionic form, which is preferably a sodium or ammonium salt.

[0024] "At least one diethylene or polyethylene crosslinking monomer (AR)" refers in particular to those in the definition of the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1) above, and refers to a monomer selected from the group consisting of methylene bis(acrylamide), ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, diallyloxyacetic acid or one of its salts (such as sodium diallyloxyacetate), or a mixture of these compounds; more particularly to a monomer selected from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, or methylene bis(acrylamide), or a mixture of these compounds.

[0025] According to another particular aspect of the invention, the composition (E1) for topical use is characterized in that said crosslinking monomer (AR) as defined above is used in a molar proportion of less than or equal to 0.5%, more particularly less than or equal to 0.25% and most particularly less than or equal to 0.1%; it is more particularly greater than or equal to 0.005% by mole.

[0026] The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolytes (AP1) used in the composition for topical use (E1), which is the subject of the present invention, may also contain various additives, such as complexing agents, chain transfer agents or chain-limiting agents.

[0027] The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolytes (AP1) used in the composition for topical use (E1), which is the subject of the present invention, can be prepared by carrying out radical polymerization processes known to those skilled in the art, such as solution polymerization, suspension polymerization, inverse suspension polymerization, emulsion polymerization, inverse emulsion polymerization or polymerization in a solvent medium, followed by a step of precipitation of the polymer formed.

[0028] According to a more particular aspect, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1) used in the composition for topical use (E1) that is the subject of the present invention can be prepared by carrying out a process of polymerization in a solvent medium followed by a step of precipitation of the polymer formed, or a process of inverse emulsion polymerization, optionally followed by a step of concentration and / or atomization.

[0029] According to a more specific embodiment, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1) used in the topical composition (E1) of the present invention can be prepared according to one of the processes described above and can include the use of a chain transfer agent or chain limiter. The chain transfer agent or chain limiter is more particularly selected from the group consisting of sodium hypophosphite, low molecular weight alcohols such as methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, isopropanol, or butanol, thiols such as 2-mercaptoethanol, chain transfer agents containing sulfate functional groups such as sodium methallylsulfonate, or mixtures of said chain transfer agents. The chain transfer agent or chain limiter is more particularly used in a molar ratio (expressed relative to the total number of moles of monomers used) of 0.001 mol % to 1 mol %, more particularly 0.001 mol % to 0.5 mol %, and particularly particularly 0.001 mol % to 0.1 mol %.

[0030] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1) is a homopolymer of partially or completely salified 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); a homopolymer of partially or completely salified 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); copolymers of partially or completely chlorinated 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt and partially or completely chlorinated acrylic acid in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); copolymers of partially or completely chlorinated 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt (γ) and partially or completely chlorinated acrylic acid in the form of its sodium salt (δ) in a molar ratio (γ) / (δ) of 30 / 70 or more and 90 / 10 or less; Copolymers; copolymers of partially or completely chlorinated 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) in the form of its sodium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide), with partially or completely chlorinated acrylic acid (δ) in the form of its sodium salt, in a molar ratio (γ) / (δ) of greater than or equal to 40 / 60 and less than or equal to 90 / 10; copolymers of partially or completely chlorinated 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) in the form of its sodium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); - Copolymers of 2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) with acrylamide (ε) in a molar ratio (γ) / (ε) of 30 / 70 or more and 90 / 10 or less; copolymers of partially or completely salified 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) in the form of its sodium salt with hydroxyethyl acrylate (ζ), crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide), in a molar ratio (γ) / (ζ) of 30 / 70 or more and 90 / 10 or less;Terpolymers of partially or fully salified 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt, acrylamide, and partially or fully salified acrylic acid in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); terpolymers of partially or fully salified 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt in a molar proportion of 30% to 45% and a molar proportion of 45% to 68% and a molar proportion of acrylic acid in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt in a molar proportion of 2% to 10% and a molar proportion of acrylic acid in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); terpolymers of partially or fully salified 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt in a molar proportion of 45% to 68% and a molar proportion of acrylic acid in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt in a molar proportion of 2% to 10% and a molar proportion of acrylic acid in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); Terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in a molar proportion of 30% to 45% inclusive, acrylamide in a molar proportion of 47% to 68% inclusive, and acrylic acid in a molar proportion of 2% to 8% inclusive, partially or fully salified in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in a molar proportion of 60% to 80% inclusive, N,N-dimethylacrylamide in a molar proportion of 15% to 39.5% inclusive, and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate in a molar proportion of 0.5% to 5% inclusive, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide);It is a member of the group consisting of tetrapolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, partially or completely salified in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt, in a molar proportion of 60% to 80%, N,N-dimethylacrylamide in a molar proportion of 15% to 39%, lauroyl methacrylate in a molar proportion of 0.5% to 2.5%, and stearoyl methacrylate in a molar proportion of 0.5% to 2.5%, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide);

[0031] For the emulsifying surfactant, in formula (VII) as defined above, the group R1-O- is linked to G via the anomeric carbon of the sugar residue to form an acetal functionality.

[0032] According to one specific embodiment, in the definition of formula (VII), x, i.e., the average degree of polymerization, represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5, more specifically greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, and even more specifically greater than or equal to 1.25 and less than or equal to 2.0.

[0033] According to another particular embodiment, the combination of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S1) and at least one emulsifying surfactant (S2) comprises, per 100% of its weight: -Formula (VII): R1-O-(G) x -H(VII) where x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents a glucosyl or α,β-D-glucopyranosyl radical (obtained from removal of the hemiacetal hydroxyl group from α,β-D-glucopyranose), and R1 represents a radical selected from the group consisting of the radicals: n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl, and n-behenyl, per 100% of its weight, *10% to 50% by weight of at least one alkyl polyglycoside composition (C1), the composition comprising: R1-O-(G)1-H(VII1) R1-O-(G)2-H(VII2) R1-O-(G)3-H(VII3) R1-O-(G)4-H(VII4) R1-O-(G)5-H(VII5) of a compound represented by - the sum a1+a2+a3+a4+a5 is equal to 1, and -The sum a1+2a2+3a3+4a4+5a5 is equal to x a1, a2, a3, a4, and a5 in respective molar ratios such as: * 90% to 50% by weight of formula (IX): R''1-OH(IX) wherein R"1 represents a radical selected from the group consisting of the radicals: n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl, and n-behenyl, and wherein R"1 may be identical to or different from R1; and at least one fatty alcohol of the formula: 12% to 88% by weight of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S1), consisting of at least one composition (C2) comprising: Formula (XII): [ka] (wherein y2 represents an integer of 2 or more and 50 or less, R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical, or an ethyl radical, and Z2 represents a group represented by formula (XIII): [ka] represents the radical of wherein y'2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10, and Z'2 represents a radical of formula (XIII) as defined above (wherein Z'2 may be the same as or different from Z2), or a hydrogen atom. 12% to 88% by weight of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S2) consisting of at least one polyhydroxystearic acid polyglycol represented by the formula:

[0034] For the emulsifying surfactant, in formula (VIII) as defined above, the group R1-O- is linked to G via the anomeric carbon of the sugar residue so as to form an acetal functionality.

[0035] According to one specific embodiment, in the definition of formula (VIII), x, i.e., the average degree of polymerization, represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, more specifically between 1.05 and 2.0, and even more specifically between 1.25 and 2.0.

[0036] According to another detailed embodiment, the combination of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S1) and at least one emulsifying surfactant (S2) comprises, per 100% by weight: -per 100% of its weight, □Formula (X): R1-O-(G) x -H (X) wherein x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents a xylose residue, and R1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical; and 10% by weight to 50% by weight of at least one alkyl polyglycoside composition (C'1) (the composition is represented by the formulas (X1), (X2), (X3), (X4), and (X5): R1-O-(G)1-H (X1) R1-O-(G)2-H (X2) R1-O-(G)3-H (X3) R1-O-(G)4-H (X4) R1-O-(G)5-H (X5) of a compound represented by □ The sum a1+a2+a3+a4+a5 is equal to 1, and □The sum a1+2a2+3a3+4a4+5a5 is equal to x a mixture of a1, a2, a3, a4 and a5 in the respective molar ratios such as: □Formula (XI): R'''1-OH (XI) wherein R'''1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical, and 12% to 88% by weight of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S1); Formula (XII): [ka] (wherein y2 represents an integer of 2 or more and 50 or less, R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical, or an ethyl radical, and Z2 represents a group represented by formula (XIII): [ka] (wherein y'2 represents a radical of the formula (XIII), and Z'2 represents a radical of the formula (XIII) as defined above (wherein Z2' may be the same as or different from Z2), or a hydrogen atom), and the composition contains 12% to 88% by weight of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S2) consisting of at least one polyglycol polyhydroxystearate.

[0037] According to another particular embodiment, the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention has a dynamic viscosity of 500 mPa.s to 40,000 mPa.s, measured at a temperature of 20°C using a Brookfield LVT viscometer at a speed of 6 rpm.

[0038] As regards auxiliary compounds, among the foaming and / or detergent anionic surfactants which may be combined with the composition for topical use (E1) according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether sulfonates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamides, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamides, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sarcosinates, acyl isethionates, N-acyl taurates, acyl lactylates, N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, N-acylated derivatives of peptides, N-acylated derivatives of proteins or alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, amine or amino alcohol salts of fatty acids.

[0039] Among the foaming and / or detergent amphoteric surfactants optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.

[0040] Among the foaming and / or detergent cationic surfactants optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives.

[0041] Among the foaming and / or detergent nonionic surfactants optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may more particularly be made of alkyl polyglycosides containing a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical and containing from 8 to 12 carbon atoms; castor oil derivatives, polysorbates, coconut kernel amides, and N-alkylamines.

[0042] Examples of thickening and / or gelling surfactants optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention include: optionally alkoxylated fatty acid esters of alkyl polyglycosides, most particularly ethoxylated esters of methyl polyglucosides, such as PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate, sold under the names Glucamate™ LT or Glumate™ DOE120, respectively; alkoxylated fatty acid esters, such as PEG 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate sold under the name Crothix® DS53 or PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate sold under the name Antil® 141; - fatty-chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates, such as PPG 14 laureth isophoryl dicarbamate sold under the name Elfacos® T211 or PPG 14 palmeth 60 hexyl dicarbamate sold under the name Elfacos® GT2125.

[0043] Examples of emulsifying surfactants optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention include nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and cationic surfactants.

[0044] Examples of emulsifying nonionic surfactants optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention are ethoxylated castor oil and ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil, such as the product sold under the name Simulsol® 989; compositions comprising glycerol stearate and poly(ethoxylated) stearic acid with 5 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, such as the composition sold under the name Simulsol® 165, which comprises stearic acid (ethoxylated) with 135 mol of ethylene oxide and glycerol stearate; ethoxylated sorbitan esters, such as the product sold under the name Montanox®; ethoxylated mannitan esters; sucrose esters; methyl glucoside esters.

[0045] Examples of emulsifying anionic surfactants that may be present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention include decyl phosphate, cetyl phosphate (sold under the name Amphisol®), glyceryl stearate citrate; cetearyl sulfate; arachidyl / behenyl phosphate and arachidyl / behenyl alcohol compositions (sold under the name Sensanov® WR); soaps such as sodium stearate or triethanolammonium stearate, or salified N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, such as stearoyl glutamate.

[0046] Examples of emulsifying cationic surfactants optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention include amine oxides, quaternium-82, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetylpyridinium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, and surfactants as described in document WO 96 / 00719, and mainly those in which the fatty chain contains at least 16 carbon atoms.

[0047] As examples of opacifying and / or pearlescent agents optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of sodium palmitate, sodium stearate, sodium hydroxystearate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium stearate, magnesium hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, and fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0048] Examples of texturing agents optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention include N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine (sold under the name Aminohope™ LL), starch octenyl succinate (sold under the name Dryflo™), myristyl polyglucoside (sold under the name Montanov 14), cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, and mica.

[0049] Examples of solvents and cosolvents optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention include water, organic solvents such as glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, mixtures of water with said organic solvents, propylene carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol and dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO).

[0050] Examples of agents for improving skin penetration, optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, include glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monopropyl ether, ethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, ethylene glycol monobenzyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether (or Transcutol-P), fatty acids such as oleic acid, fatty acid esters of glycerol such as glyceryl behenate, glyceryl palmitostearate, behenoyl macroglyceride, polyoxyethylene-2-stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene-2-oleyl ether, terpenes such as D-limonene, and essential oils such as eucalyptus essential oil.

[0051] Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention include monosaccharide polysaccharides such as glucans or glucose homopolymers, glucomannanoglucans, xyloglycans, galactomannans, whose degree of substitution (DS) of D-galactose units on their D-mannose backbone is between 0 and 1, more particularly between 1 and 0.25, such as galactomannans derived from cassia gum (DS=1 / 5), locust bean gum (DS=1 / 4), tara gum (DS=1 / 3), guar gum (DS=1 / 2) or fenugreek gum (DS=1).

[0052] Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention include polysaccharides consisting of monosaccharide derivatives, such as sulfated galactans, more particularly carrageenans and agar, uronans, more particularly algin, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers of monosaccharides and uronic acids, more particularly xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic exudate and karaya gum exudate, and glycosaminoglycans.

[0053] Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention include cellulose, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, silicates, starch, hydrophilic starch derivatives, and polyurethanes.

[0054] As examples of stabilizers optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of microcrystalline waxes, more particularly ozokerite wax, as well as inorganic salts, such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride.

[0055] Examples of thermal or mineral waters that can be combined with the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention include thermal or mineral waters having a mineralization of at least 300 mg / I, in particular waters from Avene, Vittel, Vichy basin, Uriage, La Roche-Posay, La Bourboule, Enghien-les-Bains, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, Neris-les-Bains, Allevard-les-Bains, Digne, Maizieres, Neyrac-les-Bains, Lons-le-Saunier, Rochefort, Saint Christau, Les Fumades and Tercis-les-Bains.

[0056] Examples of active agents that can be combined with the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention include substances or compositions that provide a beneficial effect to a human or animal subject.

[0057] Examples of deodorants that may optionally be present in the composition (E1) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention include zinc salts such as alkali metal silicates, zinc sulfate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride or zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts or cetylpyridinium salts; glycerol derivatives such as glyceryl caprate, glyceryl caprylate or polyglyceryl caprate; 1,2-decanediol, 1,3-propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metallic zeolites; Triclosan®; aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulfate, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate. Examples of the aluminum chlorohydrate and glycol complexes include aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum lactate, or a complex of aluminum chlorohydrate and glycol, such as a complex of aluminum chlorohydrate and propylene glycol, a complex of aluminum dichlorohydrate and propylene glycol, a complex of aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and propylene glycol, a complex of aluminum chlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol, a complex of aluminum dichlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol, or a complex of aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol.

[0058] Examples of antioxidants that may be present in the composition (E1) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention include mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as EDTA and its salts, citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylhydroxyanisole), BHT (butylhydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, Dissolvine GL 47S (INCI name: tetrasodium glutamate diacetate).

[0059] Among the active ingredients that may be included in the composition (E1) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of: Vitamins and their derivatives, especially their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (e.g., retinyl palmitate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (e.g., ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (e.g., tocopherol acetate), vitamin B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives), etc.; compounds exhibiting sedative properties, in particular Sepicalm S, allantoin and bisabolol. anti-inflammatory agents; moisturizing compounds such as urea, hydroxyurea, glycerol glucoside, diglycerol glucoside, polyglyceryl glucosides, glycerol, diglycerol or xylityl polyglucosides sold under the trademark Aquaxyl®; polyphenol-rich plant extracts such as grape extract, pine extract, wine extract or olive extract; slimming or fat-reducing agents such as caffeine or its derivatives, Adiposlim®, Adipoless® or fucoxanthin compounds exhibiting a degradative action; N-acylated proteins; N-acylated peptides such as Matrixil™; N-acylated amino acids; partial hydrolysates of N-acylated proteins; amino acids; peptides; total protein hydrolysates; soy extracts, for example Raffermine™; wheat extracts, for example Tensine™ or Gliadine™; plant extracts such as tannin-rich plant extracts, isoflavone-rich plant extracts or terpene-rich plant extracts; extracts of freshwater algae or seaweeds; extracts of marine plants; marine extracts in general, such as coral; essential waxes; bacterial extracts; ceramides; phospholipids; compounds exhibiting antimicrobial or cleansing action, such as Lipacide™ C8G, Lipacide™ UG, Sepicontrol™ A5, Octirox™ or Sensiva™ SC50; compounds exhibiting psychoactivating or stimulant properties, such as Physiogenyl™ or its derivatives, such as panthenol and Sepicap™ MP;Anti-aging active ingredients such as Sepilift™ DPHP, Lipacide™ PVB, Sepivinol™, Sepivital™, Manoliva™, Phyto-Age™, Timecode™ or Survicode™; anti-photoaging active ingredients; active ingredients that protect the integrity of the dermal-epidermal junction; active ingredients that increase the synthesis of components of the extracellular matrix such as collagen, elastins or glycosaminoglycans; Active ingredients that favor chemical intercellular communication, such as cytokines, or physical intercellular communication, such as integrins; active ingredients that produce a "warming" sensation on the skin, such as activators of skin microcirculation (such as nicotinic acid derivatives), or products that produce a "cooling" sensation on the skin (such as menthol and derivatives); active ingredients that improve skin microcirculation, such as venoconstrictors; drainage active ingredients; ginkgo, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, raft, butcher's broom, Centella asiatica active ingredients for decongestant purposes, such as extracts of Pterocarpus asiatica, fucus, rosemary or willow; skin tanning or browning agents, for example, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythrose, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, glyceraldehyde, alloxan, ninhydrin, plant extracts, such as Pterocarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii, African rosewood (Pterocarpus erinaceus), Pterocarpus indicus or Baphia nitida, extracts of red cedars of the Pterocarpus and Baphia genera, for example, those described in EP 0 971 683;agents known for their effect of promoting and / or accelerating the tanning and / or browning of human skin and / or for their effect of pigmenting human skin, such as carotenoids (and more particularly β-carotene and γ-carotene), the product containing carotenoids, vitamin E and vitamin K sold by the company Provital under the trademark "Carrot Oil" (INCI name: Daucus carota, Helianthus annuus sunflower oil);Tyrosine and / or its derivatives, known for their effect in accelerating the tanning of human skin in combination with exposure to ultraviolet radiation, such as the product containing tyrosine and riboflavins (vitamin B) sold by Provital under the trademark SunTan Accelerator™, the tyrosine and tyrosinase complex sold by Zymo Line under the trademark Zymo Tan Complex, the product containing acetyl tyrosine sold by Mibelle under the trademark MelanoBronze™ (INCI name: acetyl tyrosine, monk pepper extract (Vitex agnus-castus)), the product sold by Unipex under the trademark Unipertan VEG-24 / 242 / 2002 (INCI name: butylene glycol and acetyl tyrosine and vegetable protein hydrolysate and adenosine triphosphate), the product sold by Sederma under the trademark Try-Excell™ (INCI name: oleoyl tyrosine and loofah extract). products containing mallow seed extract (or loofah oil) sold under the trademark Actibronze™ (INCI name: Wheat protein hydrolysate and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) by Alban Muller, products sold under the trademark Tyrostan™ (INCI name: Potassium caproyl tyrosine) by Synerga, products sold under the trademark Tyrosinol (INCI name: Sorbitan isostearate, glyceryl oleate, caproyl tyrosine) by Synerga, products sold under the trademark InstaBronze™ (INCI name: Dihydroxyacetone and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) by Alban Muller, products sold under the trademark Tyrosilane (INCI name: Methylsilanol and acetyl tyrosine) by Exymol;Peptides known for their melanogenesis activating effect, such as the product sold under the trademark Bronzing SF Peptide Powder (INCI name: dextran and octapeptide-5) by the company Infinitec Activos, the product sold under the trademark Melitane (INCI name: glycerin and water and dextran and acetyl hexapeptide-1) which contains acetyl hexapeptide-1 known for its α-MSH-agonist action, the product sold under the trademark Melatimes Solutions™ (INCI name: butylene glycol, palmitoyl tripeptide-40) by the company Lipotec, sugars and sugar derivatives, such as the product sold under the trademark Tanositol™ (INCI name: inositol) by the company Provital, Codif which contains oligosaccharides of marine origin (guluronic and mannuronic acid chelated with magnesium and manganese ions). the product sold under the trademark Thalitan™ (or Phycosaccharide™ AG) by the company International (INCI name: Water and hydrolyzed algin (Laminaria digitata) and magnesium and manganese sulfates), the product sold under the trademark Melactiva™ by the company Alban Müller (INCI name: Maltodextrin, Mucuna pruriens seed extract), compounds with a high content of flavonoids, such as the product sold under the trademark Biotanning by the company Silab (INCI name: Hydrolyzed orange (citrus Aurantium dulcis) fruit extract), known for its high content of lemon flavonoids (hesperidin type);

[0060] Examples of sunscreens optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention include all those listed in Annex VII of the revised Cosmetics Directive 76 / 768 / EEC.

[0061] Among the organic sunscreens optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of: para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), in particular benzoic acid derivatives such as monoglyceryl esters of PABA, ethyl esters of N,N-propoxy PABA, ethyl esters of N,N-diethoxy PABA, ethyl esters of N,N-dimethyl PABA, methyl esters of N,N-dimethyl PABA, butyl esters of N,N-dimethyl PABA; -anthranilic acid derivatives such as homomenthyl N-acetylanthranilate; - Salicylic acid derivatives, such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropylphenyl salicylate, etc.; -Cinnamic acid derivatives such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl 4-isopropylcinnamate, methyl 2,5-diisopropylcinnamate, propyl p-methoxycinnamate, isopropyl p-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octyl p-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate), 2-ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate, cyclohexyl p-methoxycinnamate, ethyl α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamate, mono-2-ethylhexanoylglyceryl di-para-methoxycinnamate; -2,4-Dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone 5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl-4'-phenylbenzophenone 2-carboxylate, 2-hydroxy-4-n-octyloxybenzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzophenone; 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene)-d,l-camphor, 3-(benzylidene)-d,l-camphor, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate; urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate; benzophenone derivatives such as the family of sulfonic acid derivatives, such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; -hydroxyphenyltriazine, (ethylhexyloxyhydroxyphenyl)(4-methoxyphenyl)triazine, 2,4,6-trianilino(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, 4,4-((6-(((1,1-dimethylethyl)amino)carbonyl)phenyl)amino)-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyldiimino)bis(2-ethylhexyl) benzoate, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-Hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-t-octylphenyl)benzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-methyphenyl)benzotriazole; dibenzazine; dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4''-t-butylbenzoylmethane; triazine derivatives such as 5-(3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene)-3-pentan-2-one; -diphenylacrylic acid derivatives, such as 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate or ethyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate; - Polysiloxanes such as benzylidene siloxane malonate.

[0062] Among the inorganic sunscreens, also known as "mineral screens", optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow, red or black iron oxide, and chromium oxide. These inorganic screening agents may be micronized or not, may be surface-treated or not, and may optionally be provided in the form of an aqueous or oily predispersion.

[0063] The composition as defined above according to the invention is obtained by carrying out a preparation process comprising the following steps: Step a) preparing the fatty phase (A2) by mixing all of the components that make it up in the desired proportions, this mixing step generally being carried out at a temperature of at least 20°C and at most 80°C, more particularly at least 25°C and at most 80°C, even more particularly at least 30°C and at most 80°C; this is carried out with mechanical stirring at a moderate speed of at least 50 rpm and at most 100 rpm; Step b) preparing the aqueous phase (A1) by mixing all of its constituent components in the desired proportions. This mixing step is generally carried out at a temperature of from 20° C. to 80° C., more particularly from 20° C. to 60° C., even more particularly from 20° C. to 40° C.; it is carried out with mechanical stirring at a moderate speed of from 500 rpm to 3000 rpm. In particular, the aqueous phase (A1) obtained at the end of step b) has a dynamic viscosity of from 200 mPa.s to 40,000 mPa.s, more particularly from 1,000 mPa.s to 40,000 mPa.s, even more particularly from 2,000 mPa.s to 40,000 mPa.s, measured at a temperature of 20° C. using a Brookfield LV viscometer at a speed of 6 rpm. Step c) During this step, the fatty phase (A2) is added to the aqueous phase (A1), at a temperature of greater than or equal to 20°C and less than or equal to 80°C, more particularly greater than or equal to 20°C and less than or equal to 60°C, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 20°C and less than or equal to 40°C, and with moderate mechanical stirring at a speed of greater than or equal to 50 rpm and less than or equal to 400 rpm, to obtain a composition according to the invention. [Example]

[0064] The examples that follow illustrate, but do not limit, the invention.

[0065] Preparation and Evaluation of Emulsions According to the Invention and Comparative Emulsions 1) Preparation of emulsions according to the present invention and comparative emulsions Three emulsions according to the present invention, designated (F1) to (F3), and four comparative emulsions, designated (F'1) to (F'4), whose constituent weight proportions are recorded in Table 1 below, with the polyelectrolyte weight content shown as a percentage of polymer solids, are prepared by carrying out the following method.

[0066] The ingredients of the fat phase are successively introduced into a beaker and mixed, bringing it to a temperature of 20°C after a heating step of 80°C; mixing is carried out using a mechanical stirrer equipped with a propeller-type stirring shaft at a speed of 100 rpm.

[0067] The components of the dispersed phase are mixed in a beaker at ambient temperature using a mechanical stirrer at a speed of 2000 rpm, and then the thickener is added in portions. Stirring is maintained for a period of time until a phase in the form of a homogeneous gel is obtained. To this gel, at ambient temperature, the fat phase is added all at once and stirred at a moderate stirring speed (75-300 rpm) using a stirrer equipped with an anchor-type shaft. Stirring is then maintained for 10 minutes, and no cooling step is necessary.

[0068] [Table 1]

[0069] [Table 2]

[0070] 2 Demonstration of the properties of emulsions (F1) to (F3) according to the present invention and comparative emulsions (F'1) to (F'4). 2.1 Characterization of appearance and viscosity of emulsions according to the invention (F1) to (F3) and comparative emulsions (F'1) to (F'4). The emulsions (F1) to (F3) and (F'1) to (F'4) obtained according to the process described above are then stored for 3 months in a shielded climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 25° C. At the end of this 3-month period, the appearance (APP) of each emulsion prepared is observed and the dynamic viscosity (μ) of each emulsion is measured (in mPas) at 25° C. using a viscometer (Brookfield LVT, speed 6).

[0071] Aliquots of these same emulsions (F1) to (F3) and (F'1) to (F'4) obtained according to the process described above are also stored for 3 months in a shielded climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 45° C. At the end of this 3-month period, the appearance (APP) of each emulsion prepared is observed and the dynamic viscosity (μ) of each emulsion is measured (in mPas) at 25° C. using a viscometer (Brookfield LVT, speed 6).

[0072] 2.2 Characterization of the directionality of emulsions according to the invention (F1) to (F3) and comparative emulsions (F'1) to (F'3). The electrical conductivity (σ) of emulsions (F1) to (F3) and emulsions (F'1) to (F'3) according to the invention is measured at 25° C. using a WTW LF 196™ conductivity meter equipped with a TetraCon™ 96 electrode after a period of storage of said emulsions of 1 day in a shielded climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 25° C. For a given emulsion, (σ)≦0.5 μS.cm -1 For this emulsion, it is considered to be non-conductive and therefore the outer phase is an oily phase rather than a 1,2-propanediol or glycerol or PEG-400 based phase.

[0073] In fact, the conductivity of 1,2-propanediol measured at 25°C is 4400 μS.cm -1 and the conductivity of glycerol is 6400 μS.cm -1 is.

[0074] For a given emulsion, (σ)>0.5 μS.cm -1 For this emulsion, the emulsion is considered to be conductive, and therefore the external phase is considered to be a glycolic acid phase, rather than an oily phase. The term "glycolic acid phase" refers to a phase based on 1,2-propanediol or glycerol or PEG-400.

[0075] The same measurements are made on the conductivity of emulsions (F1) to (F3) according to the present invention and comparative emulsions (F'1) to (F'3) at 25°C, at 25°C after 3 months, and at 45°C after 3 months.

[0076] 2.3 Results obtained for emulsions (F1) to (F3) according to the invention and comparative emulsions (F'1) to (F'3) The emulsions (F1) to (F3) according to the present invention and the comparative emulsions (F'1) to (F'3) were subjected to the evaluation methods described in Sections 2.1 and 2.2. The results obtained are recorded in Table 2 below.

[0077] [Table 3]

[0078] 2.4 Analysis of results The emulsions (F1) to (F3) according to the invention are therefore characterized by: Stability of the form, which is based on 1,2-propanediol dispersed in oil, after 3 months of storage at a temperature of -25°C; the appearance observed after this storage period is still uniform; Stability of the form, which is based on 1,2-propanediol dispersed in oil, after 3 months of storage at a temperature of -45°C; the observed appearance after this storage period is still uniform;

[0079] The comparative emulsion (F'1) containing sorbitan monooleate as oil-in-water lipophilic surfactant fails to achieve an emulsion in which the dispersed phase is a 1,2-propanediol-based phase.

[0080] Similarly, comparative emulsions (F'2), (F'3) and (F'4), which contain sorbitan monooleate as an oil-in-water lipophilic surfactant, are able to achieve emulsions in which the dispersed phase is a 1,2-propanediol-based phase, but require a minimal amount of water.

[0081] Unexpectedly, the use of the water-in-oil emulsifying surfactant sorbitan monooleate does not allow the realization of emulsions in which the dispersed phase is based on 1,2-propanediol in the absence of added water (compare F'2 and F'1); the same is true for the use of other polyols often used in the preparation of formulations for topical application (F'3 and F'4).

Claims

1. A composition (E1) for topical use, comprising a gelled phase (A1) free of added water and dispersed in a continuous phase (A2), said gelling phase (A1) Per 100% of its weight, - 0.5% to 10% by weight of a crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1), 90% to 99.5% by weight of at least one diol selected from 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, or 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol and the continuous phase (A2) comprises at least one oil, at least one emulsifying surfactant (S1) and at least one emulsifying surfactant (S2), The emulsifying surfactant (S1) is, per 100% by weight thereof, -Formula (VII): ( １ !()) ｘ  ((|).) where x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents a glucosyl or α,β-D-glucopyranosyl radical (obtained by removal of the hemiacetal hydroxyl group from α,β-D-glucopyranose), and R １ represents a radical selected from the group consisting of n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl and n-behenyl) １ ) (the composition (C １ ) is represented by the formula (VII １ ), (VII ２ ), (VII ３ ), (VII ４ ) and (VII ５ ): ( １ !()) １  ((). １ ) ( １ !()) ２  ((). ２ ) ( １ !()) ３  ((). ３ ) ( １ !()) ４  ((). ４ ) ( １ !()) ５  ((). ５ ) of a compound represented by □ Total a １ +a ２ +a ３ +a ４ +a ５ is equal to 1, and □ Total a １ +2a ２ +3a ３ +4a ４ +5a ５ is equal to x in formula (VII) Like a １ , a ２ , a ３ , a ４ and a ５ (wherein a １ , a ２ , a ３ , a ４ and a ５ are represented by the formula (VII １ ), (VII ２ ), (VII ３ ), (VII ４ ) and (VII ５ )) represents the molar ratio in said mixture of compounds represented by -Formula (VIII): ('' １ _________________ (In the formula, R'' １ represents a radical selected from the group consisting of the radicals n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl and n-behenyl, where R'' １ is R １ and 90% to 50% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol, At least one composition (C ２ ) The emulsifying surfactant (S2) is represented by formula (XII): 【Chemical 1】 (In the formula, y ２ represents an integer of 2 or more and 50 or less, R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical, or an ethyl radical, Z ２ is represented by formula (XIII): 【Chemistry 3】 (In the formula, y'2 represents an integer of 0 or more and 10 or less. When y'2 is 0, the following formula is represented.) 【Chemistry 4】 represents a radical of ２ is a radical of formula (XIII) as defined above, where Z′ ２ Is Z ２ The asterisk represents the position of the oxygen atom in formula (XII). and at least one polyhydroxystearic acid polyglycol represented by The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1) is a polymer of acrylamide and acryloyldimethyl ether. Composition (E1) is a cross-linked copolymer with sodium glutaurate.

2. Per 100% of its weight, - 60% to 98% by weight of said gelled phase (A1), and - 2% to 40% by weight of said continuous phase (A2) The composition (E1) according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises:

3. The emulsifying surfactant (S1) is represented by the formula (IX): ( １ !()) ｘ  (()) (wherein x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents a xylose residue, and R １ represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical), １ ) (the composition (C') １ ) is represented by the formula (IX １ ), (IX ２ ), (IX ３ ), (IX ４ ) and (IX ５ ): ( １ !()) １  (️️ １ ) ( １ !()) ２  (️️ ２ ) ( １ !()) ３  (️️ ３ ) ( １ !()) ４  (️️ ４ ) ( １ !()) ５  (️️ ５ ) of a compound represented by -Total a １ +a ２ +a ３ +a ４ +a ５ is equal to 1, and -Total a １ +2a ２ +3a ３ +4a ４ +5a ５ is equal to x in formula (IX) Like a １ , a ２ , a ３ , a ４ and a ５ (wherein a １ , a ２ , a ３ , a ４ and a ５ are represented by the formula (IX), １ ), (IX ２ ), (IX ３ ), (IX ４ ) and (IX ５ 3. Composition (E1) for topical use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it consists of:

4. The emulsifying surfactant (S1) is, per 100% by weight thereof, -Formula (X): R １ -O-(G) ｘ -H (X) wherein x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents a xylose residue, and R1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical. １ ) (the composition (C') １ ) is represented by the formula (X １ ), (X ２ ), (X ３ ), (X ４ ) and (X ５ ): R １ -O-(G) １ -H (X １ ) R １ -O-(G) ２ -H (X ２ ) R １ -O-(G) ３ -H (X ３ ) R １ -O-(G) ４ -H (X ４ ) R １ -O-(G) ５ -H (X ５ ) of a compound represented by □ Total a １ +a ２ +a ３ +a ４ +a ５ is equal to 1, and □ Total a １ +2a ２ +3a ３ +4a ４ +5a ５ is equal to x in formula (X) Like a １ , a ２ , a ３ , a ４ and a ５ (wherein a １ , a ２ , a ３ , a ４ and a ５ are the formula (X １ ), (X ２ ), (X ３ ), (X ４ ) and (X ５ )) represents the molar ratio in said mixture of compounds represented by -Formula (XI): R’’’ １ -OH (XI) (In the formula, R''' １ represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical), and A composition (C') comprising ２ 4. A composition (E1) for topical use according to claim 1, characterized in that it consists of:

5. 5. Composition (E1) for topical use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises one or more auxiliary compounds chosen from foaming and / or detergent surfactants, thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickening and / or gelling agents, stabilizers, film-forming compounds, solvents and cosolvents, hydrotropes, plasticizers, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers, opacifiers, self-tanning agents, pearlizing agents, superfatting agents, sequestrants, chelating agents, antioxidants, fragrances, essential oils, preservatives, conditioning agents, deodorizing agents, bleaching agents intended to bleach body hair and skin, active ingredients intended to provide a treating and / or protective action on skin or hair, sunscreens, inorganic fillers or pigments, particles imparting a visual effect or intended to encapsulate active agents, exfoliating particles, texturing agents, optical brighteners and insect repellents.

6. Composition (E1) for topical use according to claim 5, characterized in that it contains, per 100% of its weight, one or more self-tanning agents in a proportion ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight.

7. Use of a composition (E1) according to any one of claims 1 to 6 for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, hair, scalp and / or lips.

8. A composition (E1) according to any one of claims 1 to 6 for cleaning, protecting or caring for the skin, hair, scalp or lips.

9. 7. Composition (E1) according to claim 6 for artificially tanning and / or browning human skin.

10. A cosmetic treatment method for artificially tanning and / or browning human skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said human skin a composition (E1) according to claim 6.

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