Cosmetic composition in form of cream-gel for skin cleansing

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetics.SUBSTANCE: cosmetic composition in the form of a cream-gel for skin cleansing contains purified water; an emulsifier consisting of cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-75 stearate, ceteth-20 and steareth-20; glycerin; coco-glucoside; a co-surfactant consisting of purified water, glyceryl oleate and coco-glucoside; cetearyl alcohol; caprylic / capric triglyceride; panthenol; butylene glycol; squalane; oat extract; sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer; cocamidopropyl betaine; cholesterol; ceramide complex including: ceramides NP, AP, AS, NG, glycosphingolipids, hydrogenated lecithin and auxiliary components; fructooligosaccharides; hydroxyacetophenone; preservative consisting of 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol; tocopheryl acetate; fragrance; arginine and disodium EDTA, in a certain ratio of components, wt.%.EFFECT: relisble removal of impurities from the skin's surface, restoration of the damaged protective barrier of the skin during washing without causing excessive dryness of the skin, relief of irritation and moisturization of the skin.1 cl, 3 tbl, 4 ex

Description

[0001] The invention relates to cosmetics and is a facial cream-gel that provides effective cleansing of the skin without causing a feeling of tightness and dryness.

[0002] Source KR 101897488 B1, September 12, 2018, describes a cosmetic composition containing a complex of ceramide, panthenol, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, and phospholipid, as well as cottonseed and flaxseed oils. The composition also includes a mixed extract of fresh ginseng.

[0003] CN 109568228 A of 05 / 04 / 2019 discloses a moisturizing lotion containing plant components and a method for preparing the moisturizing lotion. The moisturizing lotion is made from the following raw materials: Sophora flavescens root extract, tea leaf extract, aloe extract, capryloylglycine, bisabolol, ceramide, vitamin E, lanolin, squalane, glyceryl stearate, cetyl stearyl alcohol, xanthan gum, carbomer, glycerin, panthenol, trehalose, allantoin, methylparaben, triethanolamine, essence and pure water. The moisturizing lotion disclosed in the invention utilizes the synergistic effect of Sophora flavescens root extract, tea leaf extract, and aloe extract, all pure natural ingredients containing herbal medicinal properties, to effectively suppress pathogenic microorganisms such as Propionibacterium acnes and reduce the inflammatory response. The lotion has the effect of clearing acne, reducing inflammation, and combating comedones.

[0004] A spray lotion containing bionic tire fat and a method for preparing a body spray lotion are known from source CN 118717539 A dated 01.10.2024. The raw materials for the preparation include water, glycerin, caprylic / capric triglyceride, ethylhexyl stearate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, phenoxyethanol, polydimethylsiloxane, C14-22 alcohol, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, ethylhexylglycerin, silicon dioxide, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, sunflower oil, beeswax, jojoba esters, cetearyl alcohol and jojoba seed oil. The composition includes tocopherol acetate, phytosterols, hydrogenated lecithin, ceramide, disodium EDTA, trehalose, panthenol, bisabolol, and ginger root extract. The spray-lotion components can be stably dispersed. The spray-lotion has a relatively good moisturizing effect on the skin.

[0005] The source CN 109394642 A 01.03.2019 describes an anti-inflammatory and soothing skin care product and its preparation method. Anti-inflammatory soothing skin care product contains by weight cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, squalane, simmondsia chinensis seed oil, polydimethylsiloxane, butyrospermum parkii oil, lecithin, ceramide 3, dipropylene glycol, sphingolipid, sucrose distearate, cholesterol, petrolatum, mineral oil, water, panthenol, glycerin, betaine, 1,3-propylene glycol, allantoin, xanthan gum, acrylic acid, asiaticoside, potassium cetyl phosphate, methyl hydroxybenzoate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, radix ophiopogonis root extract, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol, bisabolol and tromethamine.According to the present invention, an anti-inflammatory soothing skin care agent contains the following raw materials in parts by weight: 3.54 parts of cetearyl alcohol, 2.61 parts of cetearyl glucoside, 0.69 parts of squalane, 5.15 parts of jojoba seed oil, 8.95 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 2.06 parts of avocado tree oil, 2.47 parts of lecithin, 3.6 parts of ceramide, 1.2 parts of ceramide, 1.3 parts of ceramide, 1.6 parts of ceramide, 1.7 parts of ceramide, 1.9 parts of ceramide, 2.1 parts of ceramide, 1.3 parts of ceramide, 1.6 parts of ceramide, 1.7 parts of ceramide, 1.8 parts of ceramide, 1.9 parts of ceramide, 1.6 parts of ceramide, 1.8 parts Ceramide 1.52 parts, Dipropylene Glycol 14.5 parts, Sphingolipids 3.5 parts, Sucrose Distearate 3.77 parts, Cholesterol 2.35 parts, Petrolatum 8.62 parts, Mineral Oil 26.9 parts, Water 40.5 parts, Panthenol 14.78 parts, Glycerin 7.56 parts, Betaine 3.52 parts, 1,3-Propylene Glycol 10.4 parts, Allantoin 2.82 parts, Xanthan Gum 5.94 parts, Acrylic Acid 6.4 parts, Asiatic Glycoside 3.32 parts, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 1.55 parts, Methylparaben 0.84 parts, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate 2.36 parts, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract 4.37 parts, Phenoxyethanol 5.46 parts, ethylhexylglycerin 7.25 parts, tocopheryl acetate 9.08 parts, tocopherol 7.3 parts, bisabolol 10.2 parts and tromethamine 13.7 parts.

[0006] From the source CN 107811896 A 03 / 20 / 2018, a cleansing gel is known, which is made from the following components: citric acid, xanthan gum, sodium ethoxylated alkyl sulfate, thickener, 10-11% sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, 8-11% imidazoline, 1-2.5% surfactant, 0.09-0.11% D-panthenol, 0.5-1% amino acid humectant, 0.09-0.11% magnolin, 0.09-0.11% palmaria palmata extract, 0.09-0.11% pomelo ceramide, 0.09-0.11% grapefruit essential oil, 0.04-0.06% rosemary essential oil, 2-3% leupeptin antibacterial liquid, 6-9% A22 thickener, 0.5-1% propanediol, and 51-65% deionized water, where the sum of the component percentages equals 100%. The advantage of this cleansing gel is that it uses mild natural ingredients instead of the chemical synthetic raw materials found in existing products, which avoids irritation and reduces skin damage.

[0007] From JP 2017222580 A of 21.12.2017, an oil gel cleansing composition is known, which not only has a good enveloping effect, but also has good cleaning ability, rinsing ability and a moisturizing feeling after washing, and also has good stability at high and low temperatures. According to the present invention, there is provided an oil gel-based cleansing composition comprising: (A) An oil component consisting of a triglyceride (a1) of a fatty acid having a carbon number of from 6 to 10 and a vegetable oil (a2) that can be liquefied at 25°C; (B) glycerin; (C) a polyoxyethylene alkyl or alkenyl ether phosphate surfactant; and (D) a nonionic surfactant consisting of a polyoxyethylene glyceryl fatty acid (d1) having an HLB value of 9 to 13 and a polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid (d2) having an HLB value of 9 to 13 in terms of a specified content ratio.

[0008] The source KR 20050026778 A of March 16, 2005 proposes a cosmetic composition for relieving skin irritation, including a nanoliposome of intercellular lipids, which causes the penetration of intercellular lipids into the skin, improves the barrier function of the skin and reduces water loss from the outer layer of the skin. The cosmetic composition for relieving skin irritation contains from 0.1 to 20.0 wt.% nanoliposomes of intercellular lipids, including ceramide, cholesterol and free fatty acid, wherein the nanoliposome is prepared using a mixture containing (a) a polyol, (b) oil components containing ceramide and cholesterol, (c) a surfactant, (d) phospholipid, (e) free fatty acid and (f) water. The polyol is selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin, methylpropanediol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, erythritol, xylitol and sorbitol.The surfactant is an anionic surfactant selected from alkyl acyl glutamate, alkyl phosphate, alkyl lactylate, dialkyl phosphate, and trialkyl phosphate, or a nonionic surfactant selected from an alkoxylated alkyl ether, an alkoxylated alkyl ether, an alkyl polyglycoside, a polyglyceryl ether, and a sugar ester. The phospholipid is lecithin. The free fatty acid is a C12-22 alkyl chain, optionally a saturated fatty acid. The composition has a formula selected from a solution, emulsion, suspension, paste, gel, cream, or lotion.

[0009] The closest source selected as a prototype is CN 111000766 A, issued April 14, 2020, which discloses an amino acid cleansing cream and a method for its preparation. The amino acid cleansing cream is characterized by containing a surfactant with a special self-thickening effect, wherein the surfactant consists of an amino acid surfactant and an anionic surfactant. The cleansing cream is prepared from the following components by weight: glycerin (5 to 20%), amino acid surfactant (15 to 35%), anionic surfactant (20 to 40%), thickening agent-stabilizer (0 to 4%), plant extract (0.2 to 4%), ceramide 3 (1 to 10%), tea tree oil (0.05%), hexanediol (0.6%), and the remainder being the usual matrix and / or water in cosmetics. The amino acid surfactant is obtained from sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl sarcosine, and potassium cocoyl glycinate.The anionic surfactant is disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate. The cleansing cream obtained as a result of the present invention is mild, does not cause irritation, has sufficient cleansing ability, is able to effectively strengthen the skin barrier, is suitable for long-term use and has good product stability, while the skin is moisturized and does not tighten. Preferably, ceramide 3 is an aqueous solution of polyglycerol-10 oleate ceramide 3. Preferably, the thickening stabilizer consists of the following components, divided into parts by weight: 75-81 parts by weight of glyceryl hydroxystearate; 17-23 parts by weight of hydroxystearic acid; and 0-1 part by weight of vitamin E. To improve the viscosity and stability of the composite system, a thickening stabilizer consisting of glyceryl hydroxystearate, hydroxystearic acid and vitamins is added to the present invention.Preferably, the plant extract is an aqueous butylene glycol solution of peony root extract, medlar leaf extract, selaginella extract and Platycladus orientalis leaf extract, wherein the peony root extract is an extract of the outer bark of the peony root.

[0010] Disadvantages of well-known analogs include the presence of aggressive anionic surfactants, which can negatively impact the dry, sensitive, and irritated skin for which this cleanser is intended. Also, disadvantages of well-known analogs include the limited variety of moisturizing and barrier-restoring ingredients they contain.

[0011] The technical result that the claimed solution is aimed at achieving is that the claimed composition effectively removes impurities from the skin surface, restores the damaged protective barrier of the skin during washing without causing excessive dryness of the skin, relieves irritation and moisturizes the skin.

[0012] A cosmetic composition in the form of a cream-gel for cleansing the skin is proposed, containing purified water; an emulsifier consisting of cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-75 stearate, ceteth-20 and steareth-20; glycerin; coco-glucoside; a co-surfactant consisting of purified water, glyceryl oleate and coco-glucoside; cetearyl alcohol; caprylic / capric triglyceride; panthenol; butylene glycol; squalane; oat extract; sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer; cocamidopropyl betaine; cholesterol; Ceramide complex including: ceramides NP, AP, AS, NG, glycosphingolipids, hydrogenated lecithin and auxiliary components; fructooligosaccharides; hydroxyacetophenone; a preservative consisting of 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol; tocopheryl acetate; fragrance; arginine and disodium EDTA, in the following ratio of components, wt.%:

[0013] purified water - up to 100,

[0014] emulsifier consisting of cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-75 stearate, ceteth-20 and steareth-20 - 1.5-4.0,

[0015] glycerin - 1.0-5.0,

[0016] coco-glucoside - 1.0-5.0,

[0017] co-surfactant consisting of purified water, glyceryl oleate and coco-glucoside - 1.0-5.0,

[0018] Cetearyl alcohol - 1.0-4.0,

[0019] caprylic / capric triglyceride - 1.0-4.0,

[0020] panthenol - 0.5-3.0,

[0021] butylene glycol - 1.0-3.0,

[0022] squalane - 1.0-3.0,

[0023] oat extract - 1.0-3.0,

[0024] Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer - 0.5-1.5,

[0025] cocamidopropyl betaine - 0.5-1.5,

[0026] cholesterol - 0.1-1.0,

[0027] ceramide complex, including: ceramides NP, AP, AS, NG, glycosphingolipids, hydrogenated lecithin and auxiliary components - 0.1 - 2.0,

[0028] fructooligosaccharides - 0.1-1.5,

[0029] hydroxyacetophenone - 0.1-1.0,

[0030] preservative consisting of 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol - 0.1-1.0,

[0031] tocopheryl acetate - 0.1-1.0,

[0032] fragrance - 0.1-0.5,

[0033] arginine - 0.01-0.5,

[0034] disodium EDTA - 0.01-0.5.

[0035] The invention is used as a gentle cleanser for dry and sensitive skin and, due to the structure of the cream-gel and the active components contained in the product, helps relieve irritation and restore the barrier function of the skin.

[0036] The cream-gel contains caprylyl / capric triglyceride as an emollient, which has a moisturizing and softening effect and allows you to get a cream texture that glides easily on the skin and is rich in sensory properties.

[0037] Cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-75 stearate, ceteth-20 and steareth-20 are added as emulsifiers, which make it possible to obtain a stable composition that is stable at low and high temperatures, and also give the cosmetic composition a uniform, pleasant texture when applied, good distribution and sensory properties, and also contribute to the easy dissolution and removal of everyday impurities from the skin surface.

[0038] Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer was chosen as the gelling agent, which allows for the required viscosity and easy distribution over the skin surface, as well as ensuring product stability.

[0039] The composition also contains glycerin, which has moisturizing properties.

[0040] A mild non-ionic surfactant is added to the composition as the main surfactant in a certain concentration, which has the necessary cleaning ability, effectively cleansing the skin without the effect of overdrying.

[0041] To enhance the cleaning effect, an amphoteric surfactant, cocamidopropyl betaine, has been added to the system.

[0042] To soften the effect of the main surfactant, a co-surfactant has been added to the system, which includes glyceryl oleate, which has “superfat-reducing properties”, nourishing and moisturizing the skin.

[0043] Cetearyl alcohol is also added to form a stable structure of the cream-gel.

[0044] Caprylic / capric triglyceride has been added to the product as a softening emollient and a component of the fat phase of the emulsion, giving the product a pleasant texture, moisturizing the skin and softening the cleansing effect of the surfactant.

[0045] The cream-gel also contains panthenol as an active ingredient, which has a calming and anti-irritant effect.

[0046] To facilitate the introduction of preservatives into the system, butylene glycol has been added, which also has a moisturizing effect.

[0047] The cream-gel also contains an emollient with a structure similar to the skin's natural lipids - squalane, which has soothing, antioxidant, moisturizing, and skin barrier-restoring properties.

[0048] The cream-gel is protected from microbiological growth by adding a mixture of 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol, which acts not only as an antimicrobial agent but also as a humectant. Hydroxyacetophenone is also added. It has an antiseptic effect and synergizes with other preservatives, enhancing their effectiveness, and also acts as an antioxidant.

[0049] To restore the skin's natural lipid barrier, cholesterol has been added to the product, which has a moisturizing, film-forming, wound-healing effect, and a ceramide complex, which includes ceramides NP, AP, AS, NG, glycosphingolipids, hydrogenated lecithin and auxiliary components.

[0050] The active ingredient in this cream-gel formula is oat extract, a source of amino acids, vitamins, and minerals with a regenerating effect. It intensively moisturizes and softens the skin, combats irritation, and relieves localized inflammation.

[0051] Fructooligosaccharides added to the cream-gel are a probiotic and help maintain the natural balance of the skin's microflora in a normal state, which leads to the removal of irritation and the restoration of the skin's protective barrier.

[0052] Tocopheryl acetate used in the composition is an antioxidant, protects the cosmetic product and skin cells when applied from oxidation, and also helps to repair damage caused by exposure to ultraviolet rays.

[0053] Disodium EDTA is added to the cream-gel as a chelating agent, which prevents the formula ingredients from binding with trace elements that may be present in water or other ingredients.

[0054] To achieve the required pH, arginine has been added to the cream-gel, which additionally acts as a vasoprotector, and also increases collagen production and enhances the skin's ability to regenerate.

[0055] Fragrance is used to give the cream-gel a pleasant aroma and to improve its organoleptic properties.

[0056] The feasibility of the claimed invention is supported by specific implementation examples. The cosmetic product formulations are presented in Table 1.

[0057] Table 1

[0058] Composition 1 Composition 2 Composition 3 Composition 4 INCI % % % % purified water Up to 100.0 Up to 100.0 Up to 100.0 Up to 100.0 emulsifier consisting of cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-75 stearate, ceteth-20 and steareth-20 2,5 4,0 3,5 2,5 glycerol 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 coco-glucoside 2,00 6,00 4,00 7,00 co-surfactant consisting of purified water, glyceryl oleate and coco-glucoside 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00 cetearyl alcohol 1,50 1,50 1,50 3,00 caprylic / capric triglyceride 1,50 1,50 2,50 2,00 panthenol 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 butylene glycol 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 squalane 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 oat extract 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 0,70 0,50 0,70 0,90 cocamidopropyl betaine 0,70 0,70 0,70 0,70 cholesterol 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 ceramide complex, including: ceramides NP, AP, AS, NG, glycosphingolipids, hydrogenated lecithin and auxiliary components 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 fructooligosaccharides 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 hydroxyacetophenone 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 a preservative consisting of 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 tocopheryl acetate 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 fragrance 0,20 0,20 0,20 0,20 arginine 0,05 0,05 0,05 0,05 disodium EDTA 0,05 0,05 0,05 0,05

[0059] The preparation of cream-gel is carried out according to the following technology

[0060] Turn on the reactor heating. Pour purified water into the reactor at 78-80°C. оS., add hydroxyacetophenone, pour in 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, and butylene glycol of phase A, and add disodium EDTA B of phase B. Next, add the suspension of sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer in glycerin of phase B to the reactor. Rinse the containers with purified water and pour into the reactor. Turn on the stirrer at 40-100 rpm. Stir until a homogeneous mass is obtained. If necessary, enable mass recirculation by turning on the homogenizer at 200-100 rpm. Recirculation time is 5-20 minutes until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

[0061] The components of the fat phase G: emulsifier, caprylic / capric triglyceride, cetearyl alcohol, squalane, cholesterol and vitamin E are heated in a melter to a temperature of 70-80°C and the complete transition of solid components to a liquid state.

[0062] Pour the molten fat phase G into the reactor with the heated aqueous phase (phase A, B, C). Stir for 5-20 minutes if necessary.

[0063] Turn on the homogenizer at 1000-3000 rpm and begin emulsifying the mass for 5-20 minutes.

[0064] Turn off the reactor heating at the reactor control unit. Turn on cooling by adding cold water to the reactor jacket, gradually cooling the mass to a temperature of 50°C in the semi-finished product. When the reactor temperature reaches 50°C, add all surfactants: coco-glucoside, cocamidopropyl betaine, and co-surfactants.

[0065] Enable cooling of the emulsion in the reactor to a temperature of 37-30°C. The cooling process is accompanied by the operation of the stirrer. When the temperature in the reactor reaches 37-30°C, the ceramide complex, oat extract, D-panthenol, fructooligosaccharide solution in water, arginine solution, and fragrance are added to the reactor one after the other, with the stirrer running.

[0066] After adding all components, turn on the homogenizer at 1000-3000 rpm and further emulsify the semi-finished product for 10-30 minutes. Stir the cream at 20-80 rpm for 10-60 minutes. During this time, add cold water to the reactor jacket to bring the semi-finished product to a temperature of 25°C.

[0067] The vacuum is turned on, vacuuming continues for 60 minutes.

[0068] Technical indicators of cream-gel:

[0069] Hydrogen index (according to GOST 29188.2): 5.3-6.0.

[0070] Colloidal stability (according to GOST 29188.3): stable.

[0071] To confirm the declared technical result, the obtained samples are subjected to an assessment of consumer properties and physicochemical indicators.

[0072] The following parameters were selected to evaluate consumer properties: scent, effectiveness in removing dirt, ease of application and rinsing, and absence of dry skin after rinsing. Average values ​​for these parameters are presented in Table 2 (values ​​are given on a 10-point scale).

[0073] Table 2

[0074] Average values ​​of consumer properties indicators Parameter name Composition 1, points Composition 2, points Composition 3, points Composition 4, points Smell 10 10 10 10 Efficiency of removing dirt 10 9,5 9,5 9,0 Easy to apply and rinse off 10 9,2 9,0 9,0 No drying effect on the skin 10 9,0 9,5 9,0

[0075] Composition 1 is optimal.

[0076] In terms of organoleptic and physicochemical properties, Compositions 1-4 comply with the requirements and standards of GOST GOST 31696-2012, specified in Table 3.

[0077] Table 3

[0078] Organoleptic and physicochemical indicators Name of the indicator Acceptable standards Characteristics and norms of Composition 1 Characteristics and norms of Composition 2 Characteristics and norms of Composition 3 Characteristics and norms of Composition 4 Appearance A homogeneous single-phase or multi-phase liquid (gel- or cream-like mass, liquid or thick) without foreign impurities Homogeneous single-phase creamy mass without foreign impurities Homogeneous single-phase creamy mass without foreign impurities Homogeneous single-phase creamy mass without foreign impurities Homogeneous single-phase creamy mass without foreign impurities Color Characteristic of the color of the product of a specific name From white to light beige From white to light beige From white to light beige From white to light beige Smell Characteristic of the smell of a product of a specific name Fantasy Fantasy Fantasy Fantasy pH 5,0-8,5 5,0-6,0 5,0-6,0 5,0-6,0 5,0-6,0

[0079] Toxicological studies have shown that the cleansing cream-gel is safe and does not have a general toxic effect.

[0080] Clinical studies have shown that the cleansing cream-gel does not have an irritating or sensitizing effect.

[0081] Thus, the proposed cleansing cream-gel allows you to effectively remove impurities from the skin's surface, restore the damaged protective barrier during the washing process without causing excessive dryness, relieve irritation and moisturize the skin without the use of additional cosmetics.