Cosmetic composition for eyelash mascara with growth and filling effect / micropigmentation of natural lashes

Abstract

The present patent of invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics and / or similar preparations characterised by the composition thereof, more specifically it presents a technology based on an oil / wax-in-water emulsion of mascara for eyelashes, composed of texture modifiers, emollients, emulsifiers, film formers and pigments with active ingredients.

Description

“COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR MASCARA WITH GROWTH AND FILLING EFFECT / MICROPIGMENTATION OF NATURAL EYELASHES”

[0001] The present invention patent belongs to the technical field of cosmetics and / or similar preparations characterized by their composition, more specifically it presents a technology based on an oil / wax-in-water emulsion of mascara / eyelash mascara, composed of texture modifiers, emollients, emulsifiers, film formers, pigments with active ingredients. STATE OF THE TECHNIQUE

[0002] To date, little research has been conducted on human eyelashes, as most attention has been focused on hair research and people suffering from scalp hair loss. However, recent discoveries about the role of eyelashes and their distinctive characteristics have led to increased scientific interest.

[0003] Eyelashes are an integral part of the anatomy of the eyelid margin, contributing to the overall homeostasis of the ocular surface, making their integrity extremely important. Eyelashes also serve a protective function, defending the eyes against debris and activating the blink reflex.

[0004] In humans, there are 75 to 80 eyelashes on the lower part and 90 to 160 on the upper part. The number and width of eyelashes decrease with aging due to the shortening of the follicular cycles. Eyelash length varies from individual to individual, but they do not grow beyond a certain length (approximately 0.12 mm to 0.14 mm per day, compared to 0.2 mm to 1.1 mm per day for hair), at which point they fall out on their own. It is currently understood that eyelash length is limited because the growth rate and anagen phase are shorter than for hair.

[0005] After forcibly removing eyelashes, such as by pulling them out, it takes about eight weeks for them to grow back. Eyelashes are also known to curl across all ethnicities, and the curl has been shown to occur due to asymmetrical cell types along the concave and convex sides of the bulb. Similarly, In this way, this asymmetry is also present in curly hair.

[0006] The hair cycle, for all hair types, is divided into anagen, catagen, and telogen phases, but the average cycle length and individual phases vary depending on the location of the hair on the body. Although variable, it is estimated that the normal eyelash cycle lasts 4 to 11 months and is renewed several times throughout life. The anagen phase is the follicle growth phase and lasts approximately 1 to 2 months for eyelashes, while 3 to 6 years for hair. After the anagen phase, eyelash follicles enter the catagen phase, a transitional phase lasting approximately 15 days. This is the time during which the epithelial elements of the follicle undergo apoptosis, or programmed cell death, which corresponds to a cessation of growth and regression. The longest phase of the normal eyelash cycle, the telogen or resting phase, lasts approximately 4 to 9 months and is the phase during which hairs / eyelashes fall out.Shedding occurs due to regression of the bulb area and detachment of the shaft (located in the hypodermis), and more than half of the eyelashes are in this phase at any given time.

[0007] The unique properties of eyelashes, such as relatively long telogen phases and short anagen phases compared to scalp hair, low growth rate, and lack of androgen influence, can provide targeted aesthetic interventions to enhance the appearance of natural eyelashes.

[0008] When it comes to aesthetics, consumers seek formulations that go beyond mere decoration, but can also naturally enhance their appearance. Furthermore, eyelashes are now considered an important aspect of facial aesthetics and are the subject of various beauty treatments to enhance them. Prominent eyes and eyelashes are often considered a sign of beauty and can be associated with increased levels of attractiveness, confidence, and well-being.

[0009] The state of the art presents several patent documents related to hair growth, but not specifically associated with eyelashes, nor with a colored cosmetic product (such as makeup) that stimulates such an effect.

[0010] Patent documents BR102020022608-8 and PI0611463-6, for example, describe compositions for hair growth rather than eyelash growth, and do not present specific efficacy for a colored cosmetic product (eyelash makeup). The growth cycle and physiological stimuli for eyelash growth have particularities and make it especially difficult for active ingredients to permeate in more viscous formulas and through applicators that do not have close contact with the hair follicle in the eye area.

[0011] Patent documents CN106963673 and CN111297748, although they present cosmetic compositions for application to the eyelashes, do not have the same active ingredients as the present invention, nor do they present the same application packaging as the technical solution presented here, thus not achieving the same synergistic results of effectiveness, nor the same formulation and form of application proposed here. Technical problem

[0012] Eyelash mascara aims to temporarily improve the aesthetic appearance, providing darker, longer and thicker eyelashes, using a combination of waxes, pigments and resins, however little is known about the mechanism of action of natural plant-based active ingredients and their effectiveness when applied in color cosmetic formulations, aiming to increase the growth and volume of natural eyelashes.

[0013] Thus, it can be stated that the state of the art does not provide a single product solution, which acts both momentarily / temporarily on the aesthetic appearance characteristics and on increasing the growth and volume of natural eyelashes, seeking a long-term solution, but one that is more synergistic, effective and long-lasting. TECHNICAL SOLUTION

[0014] The main objective of this invention is to offer these innovative performances, maintaining the essential characteristics of a mascara (coloring and increasing the volume and momentary lengthening of the strands), but with the difference of providing an increase in volume / filling and growth / extension of natural hairs through continuous use of the cosmetic product, with the main technical challenge being to achieve effectiveness in the growth / extension of natural eyelashes, the increase in volume / filling and micropigmentation of natural hairs through a cosmetic composition applied via a mascara brush-type applicator that provides the permeation and activity of the active ingredients in the target area of ​​the hair follicle.

[0015] The technical solution proposed by the present invention refers to combining all these attributes in a single product, stable and with a vegan formula, obtaining a surprising solution when associating the immediate benefits of the mascara with the treatment effects of the hair follicle in the region, in the concentrations used in this product.

[0016] Another major technical challenge overcome by this invention was achieving transport and permeation of the active ingredients at the target site (close to the hair follicle, at the beginning of the hair follicle) in a cosmetic composition with high viscosity, microspheres, pigments, waxes, and film formers—components that hinder the passage / permeation of the treatment active ingredients through physical and chemical impediments. Furthermore, another significant technical hurdle is achieving this through application with an applicator brush (typically used for mascara), since, until now, the benefits of eyelash treatments were only obtained through liquid serum applicators applied directly to the eyelids, as shown in Figure 1. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0017] The following description is not limited to the drawings or components cited, but is based on the illustrations referenced below.

[0018] Figure 1 shows an image of the application region and the type of applicator for liquid serums.

[0019] Figure 2A shows an image of the eyelashes prior to application of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

[0020] Figure 2B shows an image of the eyelashes with the result obtained on the forty-fifth day of application of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

[0021] Figure 3 shows a graph of the result of the increase in eyelash volume of users of the liquid serum composition at the beginning (TO) and after 30 days of use (T30), 60 days of use (T60) and 90 days of use (T90).

[0022] Figure 4 shows a graph of the result of the perceptive evaluation of users of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, after 45 days of use.

[0023] Figure 5 shows a graph of the comparative result between the average length of the eyelashes evaluated before the start of application (D00) and on the forty-fifth day of application (D45) of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

[0024] Figure 6 shows a graph of the comparative result between the average volume, measured in pixels, of the eyelashes evaluated before the start of application (D00) and on the forty-fifth day of application (D45) of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

[0025] Figure 7 shows an image obtained by equipment known as Reveal Image (Canfield), determining the evaluation parameters of the eyelashes. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0026] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition of Mascara with Growth and Filling / Micropigmentation Effect on Natural Hairs.

[0027] The present invention utilizes a combination of ingredients in specific proportions with a structure to obtain an unusual, innovative, and complete result not available in the prior art. The final product presented herein possesses specific desirable physicochemical characteristics, such as a pasty appearance and a density between 0.95 g / cm 3 and 1.05 g / cm 3 , viscosity between 300,000 Cp and 800,000 Cp, and pH between 7.0 and 8.5.

[0028] The surprising technical effects described above, namely, the long-term effect of growth and filling / micropigmentation of natural hair, were proven through laboratory evaluations and tests, as demonstrated below.

[0029] Figures 2A and 2B show the results of the filling, micropigmentation, volume and lengthening effects of natural eyelashes before the start and on the forty-fifth day, respectively, of continuous application of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

[0030] The cosmetic product according to the present invention promoted a statistically significant increase in eyelash length and volume after 45 days of use, providing an 8% increase in eyelash growth and a 9% increase in volume, corroborating the product's intended benefits, expected by consumers, and supporting its value proposition. For comparison purposes, tests were conducted using a liquid serum cosmetic formula, and the eyelash growth results were lower than those obtained using the mascara cosmetic composition of the present invention. As shown in Figure 3, application of the serum product promoted a 2.6% increase in eyelash volume after 30 days of use and a 4.8% increase after 60 days.

[0031] The evaluation of product perception is also a strong indication of compliance with consumer acceptability, presenting favorable purchase results in 87% and proof of eyelash growth action in 80%, as demonstrated in figure 4.

[0032] It is worth noting that the biofunctional ingredients studied, composed of Glycine soybean germ extract and Triticum vulgare germ extract, for example, improve intracellular metabolism; Amaranthus hypochondriacus Leaf Extract and Hydrolyzed Ceratonia siliqua Seed Extract, which are rich in flavonoids and antioxidants and contain a wide range of essential amino acids, increase eyelash density; and, finally, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, accelerates the hair growth cycle.

[0033] The mechanism of action proposed for this combination, provided by the cosmetic product according to the present invention, unusually prolongs the anagen phase of the eyelashes, inducing the growth of the length of the eyelashes, in addition to strengthening their anchoring in the follicle, preventing hair loss by reducing of the telogen phase, protecting their integrity. With the perceived increase in the volume of natural lashes, there is also a concomitant and synergistic effect of plumping the lashes in the eyelid region, this being one of the great unusual effects provided, both for those with light and dark lashes, as demonstrated by the results presented in figures 5 and 6.

[0034] Additional efficacy studies were conducted to demonstrate the growth and volume of natural eyelashes using a mascara formulation. In vivo testing was performed on 30 female participants. The volunteers had phototypes I to IV (according to the Fitzpatrick classification), were aged between 18 and 59 years, had intact skin in the study area (around the eyes), and were occasional users of products in this category. The mascara formulation was applied by each participant for 45 days. The main objective of the evaluations was to confirm the objective instrumental efficacy of the test product through image analysis of the increase in eyelash length and volume under normal conditions of use, in addition to demonstrating the effectiveness of the product in question in humans (end users).

[0035] Images of the participants' facial region (Figure 7) were captured with equipment known as Reveal Image (Canfield) to determine the size and volume of the eyelashes. The images were captured at the following experimental times: D0 (baseline, before the start of application of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention) and D45 (after 45 days of use of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention).

[0036] The mean eyelash length and volume data obtained with the Reveal Image equipment (Canfield), after 45 days of use (D45), were statistically analyzed using the paired t-test, comparing with the baseline condition (D0). These analyses were performed using Minitab Statistical 19 software.

[0037] Eyelash Length and Volume Assessment: Eyelash length analysis is based on the calculation of distances (in mm) the software automatically calculates the total length of the eyelashes and the calculation of the volume of the eyelashes is Based on the measurement of the area, in pixels, occupied by the eyelashes, the figure shows the participant's image after filtering and area measurement. In the figure, the filled yellow area corresponds to the hairs detected by the software. This measurement is quantitative and corresponds to the total area occupied by the hairs. A comparative measurement is taken before (DO) and after application of the product (D45). This difference is detected by the image analysis software and expressed in pixels.

[0038] Thus, the major advantage of this technology is the proven increase in natural lash volume, related to a filling / micropigmentation effect on the eyelids. This is also one of the most unusual benefits offered to both those with light and dark lashes. Combining these effects with compatibility with other cosmetic products, the absence of skin irritation, and the use of vegan ingredients / formulas, we arrive at the advances provided by this invention, which surpass the state of the art.

[0039] The present invention features a combination of natural, plant-based active ingredients with the following composition: Glycine, soybean germ extract (and), Triticum vulgare germ extract (and), Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, and hydrolyzed Ceratonia siliqua seed extract (and), hydrolyzed soy protein (and), Zea mays starch (and), Amaranthus hypochondriacus leaf extract. An oil / wax-in-water mascara emulsion formulation is used, composed of texture modifiers, emollients, emulsifiers, film formers, and pigments with the aforementioned active ingredients, the details of which are mentioned below.

[0040] In an essential mode of execution of the present invention, the formulation ingredients of the cosmetic composition of Mascara, represented by their respective international nomenclatures (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients - INCI), ranges of use and functions, are presented in Table 01.

[0041] In one embodiment of the present invention, other formulation ingredients may be added to the cosmetic composition of Mascara, such as those presented in Table 02.

[0042] According to the present invention, a treatment for increasing the length and volume of eyelashes is therefore provided, related to a filling / micropigmentation effect of the eyelashes in the eyelid region, by means of a technology based on an oil / wax-in-water mascara / mascara emulsion, generating satisfactory long-term results through application using an applicator brush / common brush, achieving the passage / permeation of the treatment active ingredients to the site of action, that is, close to the hairs, at the beginning of the hair follicle.

Claims

CLAIMS 1.) “COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR EYELASH MASCARA WITH GROWTH AND FILLING EFFECT / MICROPIGMENTATION OF NATURAL HAIRS”, characterized by comprising in % by mass: 2.5% to 13%, preferably 6.84705%, of humectants, of which preferably: 1.0% to 5.0%, preferably 2.9937%, of butylene glycol; 1.0% to 5.0%, preferably 2.7%, of glycerol; and 0.5% to 3.0%, preferably 1.15335% of propanediol; 0.2355% to 9.2%, preferably 0.63%, of assets, preferably of which: 0.05% to 1.5%, preferably 0.09%, of glycine soybean germ extract; 0.05% to 1.5%, preferably 0.09%, of triticum vulgare germ extract; 0.01% to 1.5%, preferably 0.07%, of corn starch; 0.01% to 1.5%, preferably 0.06%, of hydrolyzed ceratonia siliqua seed extract; 0.01% to 1.5%, preferably 0.06%, of hydrolyzed soy protein; 0.005% to 0.1%, preferably 0.018%, of scutellaria baicalensis; 0.0005% to 0.1%, preferably 0.002%, of amaranthus hypochondriacus leaf extract; and 0.1% to 1.5%, preferably 0.24%, of arginine; 30.00% to 55.00% of vehicle; 6.505% to 25.02% viscosity regulator; 6.06% to 30.00% emollient; 1.1151% to 6.051% emulsifier; 2.001% to 10.01% film former; 1.51002% to 13.01% stabilizer; 0.2% to 2.0% pH regulator; 0.11% to 6.5% moisturizer; 0.1% to 5.0% opacifier; 1.1% to 15.00% dye / pigment; 0.2% to 4.0% thickener; 0.173% to 1.16% preservative; 0.1% to 1.01% conditioner; 0.01% to 1.0% antioxidant; and 0.0001% to 0.001% chelator. 2.) “COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR EYELASH MASCARA WITH GROWTH AND FILLING EFFECT / MICROPIGMENTATION OF NATURAL HAIRS”, according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the mass % of: 30.00% to 55.00%, preferably 44.19342%, of vehicle, preferably water; 6.505% to 25.02%, preferably 15.2129%, of viscosity regulator, of which preferably: 5.00% to 15.00%, preferably 10.50%, synthetic beeswax; 1.00% to 5.00%, preferably 3.20%, rice bran wax; 0.50% to 5.00%, preferably 1.50%, carnauba wax; and 0.005% to 0.02%, preferably 0.0129%, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; 6.06% to 30.00%, preferably 9.86688%, of emollient, of which preferably: 5.00% to 15.00%, preferably 7.70%, paraffin; 1.00% to 5.00%, preferably 2.00%, polybutene; 0.05% to 5.00%, preferably 0.11688%, hydrogenated castor oil; and 0.01% to 5.00%, preferably 0.05%, coconut oil; 1.1151% to 6.051%, preferably 3.008%, of emulsifier, of which preferably: 1.00% to 5.00%, preferably 2.65%, glyceryl stearate; 0.1% to 0.5%, preferably 0.2975%, lauryl-21; 0.01% to 0.5%, preferably 0.04%, myristic acid; 0.005% to 0.05%, preferably 0.02%, arachidic acid; and 0.0001% to 0.001%, preferably 0.0005%, polysorbate; 2.001% to 10.01%, preferably 4.5425%, of film former, of these preferably: 1.00% to 5.00%, preferably 2.3375%, of ethylhexyl acrylate copolymer; 1.00% to 5.00%, preferably 2.20%, of Vp / Eicosene copolymer; and 0.001% to 0.01%, preferably 0.005%, of polyquaternium-16; 1.51002% to 13.01%, preferably 3.9934%, of stabilizer, of which preferably: 1.00% to 5.00%, preferably 2.22%, palmitic acid; 0.5% to 5.00%, preferably 1.68%, stearic acid; 0.01% to 3.0%, preferably 0.093%, hydroxyethylcellulose; 0.00001% to 0.005%, preferably 0.0003%, calcium gluconate; and 0.00001% to 0.005%, preferably 0.0001%, sodium phosphate; 0.2% to 2.0%, preferably 1.29975%, of pH regulator, of which preferably: 0.1% to 1.5%, preferably 1.07475%, of aminomethyl propanol; and 0.1% to 0.5%, preferably 0.225%, of lactic acid; 0.11% to 6.5%, preferably 1.0225%, of moisturizer, of which preferably: 0.1% to 5.0%, preferably 1.00%, of panthenol; and 0.01% to 1.5%, preferably 0.0225%, of gluconolactone; 0.1% to 5.0%, preferably 1.00%, of opacifier, preferably silica; 1.1% to 15.00%, preferably 5.85%, of dye / pigment, of which preferably: 1.00% to 10.00%, preferably 5.00%, of black iron oxide; and 0.1% to 5.0%, preferably 0.85%, of carbon black pigment; 0.2% to 4.0%, preferably 1.2%, of thickener, of which preferably: 0.1% to 3.0%, preferably 0.66%, of gum arabic / acacia Senegal gum; and 0.1% to 1.0%, preferably 0.54%, of xanthan gum; 0.173% to 1.16%, preferably 0.7787%, of preservative, of which preferably: 0.1% to 0.6%, preferably 0.585%, phenoxyethanol; 0.05% to 0.4%, preferably 0.125%, sodium benzoate; 0.01% to 0.1%, preferably 0.04%, lauric acid; 0.01% to 0.03%, preferably 0.01148%, sodium dehydroacetate; 0.001% to 0.01%, preferably 0.00677%, phenyl ethyl alcohol; 0.001% to 0.01%, preferably 0.00545%, caprylyl glycol; and 0.001% to 0.01%, preferably 0.005%, potassium sorbate; 0.1% to 1.01%, preferably 0.5044%, of conditioning, of which preferably: 0.1% to 1.0%, preferably 0.5%, of ethylhexylglycerin; and 0.001% to 0.01%, preferably 0.0044%, of polyquaternium-7; 0.01% to 1.0%, preferably 0.05%, of antioxidant, preferably tocopherol acetate; and 0.0001% to 0.001%, preferably 0.0005%, of chelator, preferably disodium phosphate. 3.) “COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR EYELASH MASCARA WITH GROWTH AND FILLING EFFECT / MICROPIGMENTATION OF NATURAL HAIRS”, according to claim 1, characterized by being presented in the form of an oil / wax-in-water emulsion for eyelash mascara.

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