Improving the washing fastness of level 1 colorations by means of a combined pre- and post-treatment

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, having the following steps: applying a pre-treatment agent (V) onto the keratinous fibers, said pre-treatment agent containing at least one alkalizing agent (V-Alkali) and / or at least one oxidizing agent (V-Ox), - applying a dyeing agent (F) onto the keratinous fibers, said dyeing agent containing at least one direct dye (F-DZ), and - applying a post-treatment agent (N) onto the keratinous fibers, said post-treatment agent containing at least one nitrogen-containing compound selected from the group of organic amino-C1-C6-alkyl-C1-C6-alkoxy-silanes (N-silane).

Description

[0001] Improving the washfastness of Level 1 colorations through combined pre- and post-treatment

[0002] The present application relates to a cosmetic method for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the application of a pretreatment agent, a coloring agent, and a posttreatment agent. The pretreatment agent contains at least one alkalizing agent (V-alkali) and / or at least one oxidizing agent (V-Ox), the coloring agent comprises at least one direct dye (F-DZ), and the posttreatment agent (N) is characterized by its content of at least one nitrogen-containing compound from the group of organic amino-Ci-Ce-alkyl-Ci-Ce-alkoxy-silanes (N-silane).

[0003] Altering the shape and color of keratin fibers, especially human hair, represents an important area of ​​modern cosmetics. Depending on the coloring requirements, hair coloring specialists are familiar with various coloring systems. For permanent, intense colorings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage, oxidation dyes are typically used. Such dyes contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components, and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.

[0004] When using direct dyes, fully formed dyes diffuse from the dyeing agent into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, the colors obtained with direct dyes are less durable and wash out more quickly. Colorations with direct dyes typically remain on the hair for between 5 and 20 washes. Therefore, there is still room for improvement regarding the fastness properties of colorations produced with direct dyes.

[0005] It was the object of the present invention to find a dyeing process based on direct dyes which provides dyeings with improved wash fastness and improved leveling power.

[0006] Surprisingly, it has now been found that the fastness properties of hair dyed with direct dyes can be particularly significantly improved if the hair is pre-treated with a special pre-treatment agent (V) before dyeing and post-treated with a specific post-treatment agent (N) after dyeing.

[0007] The subject of the present application is a process for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps:

[0008] - application of a pretreatment agent (V) to the keratin fibres, which contains at least one alkalising agent (V-Alkali) and / or at least one oxidising agent (V-Ox),

[0009] - application of a dye (F) to the keratin fibres containing at least one direct dye (F-DZ), and

[0010] - Applying a post-treatment agent (N) to the keratin fibers, which contains at least one nitrogen-containing compound selected from the group of organic amino-Ci-Ce-alkyl-Ci-Ce-alkoxy-silanes (N-silane).

[0011] Hair dyed using the above-mentioned method was characterized by an intense color result with improved washfastness. Furthermore, the hair dyed this way was very evenly colored throughout its entire length, regardless of the degree of damage.

[0012] The advantage of the process according to the invention lies primarily in the fact that the user can continue to use his usual Level 1 coloration and, through the combined use with pre- and post-treatment agents, can significantly improve its washfastness and leveling ability.

[0013] Keratin fibers

[0014] Keratin fibers include hair, wool, and fur. Human hair is particularly preferred as keratin fibers.

[0015] Process for coloring keratin fibers

[0016] In the context of this invention, the term "coloring process" refers to the coloring of keratin fibers, particularly hair, using direct dyes. Colorants of this type can also be referred to as Level 1 colorants.

[0017] Pretreatment agent (V)

[0018] Before applying the coloring agent (F), the pretreatment agent (V) is applied to the keratin fibers, in particular the hair. The pretreatment agent described below is the ready-to-use pretreatment agent that can be applied directly to the keratin fibers or hair. The pretreatment agent (V) is characterized in that it contains at least one alkalizing agent (V-Alkali) and / or at least one oxidizing agent (V-Ox). By acting on the keratin fibers with the alkalizing agent and / or oxidizing agent, the keratin fibers can be freed of adhering components, swell slightly, and the cuticle layer is opened. This allows the direct dyes applied in the subsequent coloring step to penetrate particularly well and deeply into the interior of the keratin fibers.

[0019] Alkalizing agent (V-alkali) in the pretreatment agent (V)

[0020] The alkalizing agents (V-alkali) used in the pretreatment agent (V) can be inorganic and / or organic.

[0021] Inorganic alkalizing agents such as alkali metal carbonates and / or alkaline earth metal carbonates are particularly suitable. Examples of suitable alkali metal carbonates include sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate. Examples of particularly suitable alkaline earth metal carbonates include magnesium carbonate and calcium carbonate.

[0022] Good results were also obtained when the pretreatment agent (V) contained at least one alkali metal hydroxide as the alkalizing agent (V-alkali). Examples of well-suited alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Furthermore, good results were obtained when the pretreatment agent (V) contained at least one alkaline earth metal hydroxide as the alkalizing agent (V-alkali). Examples of well-suited alkaline earth metal hydroxides include magnesium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and barium hydroxide.

[0023] Good results were also obtained when the pretreatment agent (V) contained at least one alkali metal silicate and / or alkali metal metasilicate as an alkalizing agent (V-alkali). Suitable alkali metal silicates include sodium silicate and potassium silicate. Suitable alkali metal metasilicates include sodium metasilicate and potassium metasilicate.

[0024] The use of ammonia as an alkalizing agent is also very suitable.

[0025] Furthermore, the pretreatment agent (V) may contain at least one C2-C6 alkanolamine as an alkalizing agent. The alkanolamines usable in this context can be selected, for example, from the group of primary amines with a C2-C6 alkyl parent structure bearing at least one hydroxyl group. Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethanol-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol. The use of basic amino acids as alkalizing agents (V-alkali) is also quite possible. An amino acid within the meaning of the invention is an organic compound which contains in its structure at least one protonatable amino group and at least one -COOH- or -SChH- group.Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, especially α-(alpha)-aminocarboxylic acids and α-aminocarboxylic acids, with α-aminocarboxylic acids being particularly preferred. For the purposes of the invention, basic amino acids are those amino acids that have an isoelectric point pI greater than 7.0.

[0026] Basic α-aminocarboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom. Within the scope of the present invention, both possible enantiomers can be used equally as specific compounds or as mixtures thereof, particularly as racemates. However, it is particularly advantageous to use the naturally occurring isomer form, usually in the L-configuration.

[0027] The basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine, particularly preferably arginine and lysine. In another particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine, and / or histidine.

[0028] In a preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains at least one alkalizing agent (V-alkali) which is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal carbonates and alkaline earth metal carbonates, ammonia, C2-C6 alkanolamines and basic amino acids.

[0029] If the pretreatment agent (V) contains water and one or more alkalizing agents, the latter influence the pH value of the pretreatment agent. It has been found that alkaline pH values, in particular, have a beneficial effect on the dyeing performance achievable in the process and the fastness properties of the dyeings.

[0030] For this reason, it is preferred that the pretreatment agent (V) contains water and has a pH of 7.0 to 12.0, preferably of 7.5 to 11.5, more preferably of 8.0 to 11.0 and most preferably of 8.0 to 10.5.

[0031] The pH can be measured using conventional methods known from the prior art, such as, for example, pH measurement using glass electrodes via combination electrodes or pH indicator paper. In another particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) has a pH of 7.0 to 12.0, preferably of 7.5 to 11.5, more preferably of 8.0 to 11.0, and very particularly preferably of 8.0 to 10.5.

[0032] To fine-tune the desired pH value, it may be necessary to add one or more acidifying agents to the pretreatment agent (V) in addition to the alkalizing agent. The pH values ​​used in the present invention are pH values ​​measured at a temperature of 22°C.

[0033] Oxidizing agent (V-Ox) in the pretreatment agent (V)

[0034] In addition to the alkalizing agent (V-Alkali) or instead thereof, the pretreatment agent (V) may also contain at least one oxidizing agent (V-Ox).

[0035] Oxidizing agents are substances with an oxidizing effect. Examples of oxidizing agents commonly used in cosmetics include hydrogen peroxide and / or at least one adduct thereof, particularly with inorganic or organic compounds, such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate, sodium percarbonate, polyvinylpyrrolidone n H2O2 (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide, and melamine peroxide.

[0036] For use in the process according to the invention, the oxidizing agents from the group consisting of carbamide peroxide, potassium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate have proven particularly suitable.

[0037] Carbamide peroxide is the adduct of hydrogen peroxide and urea, which is commercially available, for example, in the form of a white crystalline powder. It is a water-soluble crystalline adduct that can be formed by recrystallizing urea with a 30% hydrogen peroxide solution.

[0038] Carbamide peroxide is also referred to in the literature as urea hydrogen peroxide adduct, urea peroxide, perhydrite, percarbamide, or urea peroxide. Carbamide peroxide has the molecular formula CH6N2O3 and the CAS number 124-43-6.

[0039] Carbamide peroxide can be purchased commercially from Thermo Scientific, for example.

[0040] In a further embodiment, persulfates and / or their salts can also be used with particular preference as oxidizing agents in the pretreatment agent (V). The use of one or more persulfates from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate is very particularly preferred.

[0041] Ammonium peroxodisulfate, which can also be called ammonium persulfate, is the persulfate with the molecular formula (NH4)2S2Oa.

[0042] Potassium peroxodisulfate, which can also be called potassium persulfate, is the persulfate with the molecular formula K2S2O8.

[0043] Sodium peroxodisulfate, which can also be called sodium persulfate, is the persulfate with the molecular formula Na2S2Os.

[0044] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains at least one oxidizing agent (V-Ox) which is selected from the group consisting of carbamide peroxide, hydrogen peroxide, potassium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate.

[0045] During the experiments leading to this invention, it was found that a significant and effective improvement in washfastness could be achieved, particularly when a pretreatment agent (V) containing a combination of various oxidizing agents was used in the process according to the invention. Particularly good results were obtained when using a pretreatment agent (V) containing the combination of carbamide peroxide (V-Ox1) and at least one peroxodisulfate (V-Ox2) from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate.

[0046] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains (V-Ox1) carbamide peroxide and

[0047] (V-Ox2) at least one peroxodisulfate from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate.

[0048] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains (V-Ox1) carbamide peroxide and

[0049] (V-Ox2) Ammonium peroxodisulfate.

[0050] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains (V-Ox1) carbamide peroxide and (V-Ox2) potassium peroxodisulfate.

[0051] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains (V-Ox1) carbamide peroxide and

[0052] (V-Ox2) Sodium peroxodisulfate.

[0053] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains (V-Ox1) carbamide peroxide and

[0054] (V-Ox2) Ammonium peroxodisulfate and potassium peroxodisulfate.

[0055] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains (V-Ox1) carbamide peroxide and

[0056] (V-Ox2) Ammonium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate.

[0057] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains (V-Ox1) carbamide peroxide and

[0058] (V-Ox2) Potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate.

[0059] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains (V-Ox1) carbamide peroxide and

[0060] (V-Ox2) Ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate.

[0061] According to the invention, the oxidative cosmetic pretreatment agent may additionally contain at least one catalyst as an optional ingredient that activates the oxidation of the substrate, such as the melanin present in the keratin material. Such catalysts include, for example, metal ions, iodides, quinones, or certain enzymes.

[0062] Suitable metal ions include Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Mn 2+ , Mn 4+ , Li + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ and Al 3+ Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ The metal ions can, in principle, be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt or in the form of a complex compound. Preferred salts are acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates, and tartrates.

[0063] Suitable enzymes include peroxidases, which can significantly enhance the effect of small amounts of hydrogen peroxide. Furthermore, enzymes suitable for the invention are those that generate small amounts of hydrogen peroxide in situ with the aid of atmospheric oxygen and thus biocatalytically activate the oxidation of the dye precursors. Particularly suitable catalysts for the oxidation of dye precursors are the so-called 2-electron oxidoreductases in combination with the specific substrates, e.g.

[0064] Pyranose oxidase and e.g. D-glucose or galactose,

[0065] glucose oxidase and D-glucose,

[0066] Glycerol oxidase and glycerol,

[0067] Pyruvate oxidase and benzoic acid or their salts,

[0068] Alcohol oxidase and alcohol (MeOH, EtOH),

[0069] Lactate oxidase and lactic acid and their salts,

[0070] Tyrosinase oxidase and tyrosine,

[0071] Uricase and uric acid or their salts,

[0072] Choline oxidase and choline,

[0073] Amino acid oxidase and amino acids.

[0074] By selecting the appropriate quantity ranges of oxidizing agent(s) (V-Ox) (or (V-Ox1) and (V-Ox2)) in the pretreatment agent (V), the extent of the influence that the pretreatment agent (V) has on the washfastness of the subsequently applied colorant (F) can be specifically controlled. In this context, it has been shown that the washfastness is better the higher the amount of oxidizing agent used in the pretreatment agent (V). On the other hand, however, the damage to the keratin material or the keratin fibers / hair also increases with increasing amounts of oxidizing agents. In order to find the optimal balance between these two effects, it has proven particularly preferable to use the oxidizing agent(s) in very specific quantity ranges in the pretreatment agent.

[0075] The pretreatment agent according to the invention preferably contains - based on the total weight of the pretreatment agent - 1.0 to 30.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 20.0 wt.%, more preferably 6.0 to 15.0 wt.% and most preferably 8.0 to 15.0 wt.% carbamide peroxide (V-Ox1).

[0076] The pretreatment agent (V) according to the invention preferably contains - based on the total weight of the pretreatment agent - one or more persulfates (V-Ox2) from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate in a total amount of 3.0 to 40.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 30 wt.%, more preferably 6.0 to 20.0 wt.% and most preferably 9.0 to 17.0 wt.%.

[0077] Within the scope of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) - based on the total weight of the pretreatment agent (V) - contains (V-Ox1) 1.0 to 30.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 20.0 wt.%, more preferably 6.0 to 15.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 8.0 to 15.0 wt.% carbamide peroxide, and

[0078] (V-Ox2) one or more peroxodisulfates from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate in a total amount of 3.0 to 40.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 30 wt.%, more preferably 6.0 to 20.0 wt.% and most preferably 9.0 to 17.0 wt.%.

[0079] Cosmetic carrier of the pretreatment agent (V)

[0080] The oxidizing agent(s) (V-Ox) (or (V-Ox1) and (V-Ox2)) are contained in the pretreatment agent (V) in a cosmetic carrier. In principle, various carriers are conceivable as cosmetic carriers for the pretreatment agent (V), such as an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic carrier. The carrier can also be a cream, emulsion, a paste or even a surfactant-containing foaming solution, such as a shampoo, foam aerosol, a foam formulation or other preparation suitable for application to the hair. Water is the most common of all solvents in cosmetic products, therefore, in principle, water can also be used as the main ingredient as a cosmetic carrier.

[0081] However, the work leading to this invention has shown that the nature of the cosmetic carrier in the pretreatment agent (V) can have a major influence on the lightening and damage associated with the use of the oxidizing agent(s).

[0082] If, for example, the combination of carbamide peroxide (V-Ox1) and peroxodisulfates (V-Ox2) was used in pretreatment agents (V) with a very high water content, increased lightening and, associated with this, greater hair damage was observed. Although the improvement in the washfastness of the coloring performance was achieved with the process according to the invention, the hair was also damaged more severely. Surprisingly, hair damage could be massively reduced by using a cosmetic carrier with a higher solvent content. It is assumed that the presence of the solvent either slows down the dissolution or decomposition of the carbamide peroxide or inhibits the reaction of carbamide peroxide with persulfates to such an extent that the inner part (i.e. the cortex) of the hair is less oxidatively changed, while the surface or cuticle is nevertheless modified so strongly that pigment-containing films can adhere there better.

[0083] Solvents from the group of glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, poly-Ci-Ce-alkylene glycols, dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, butylene carbonate and glycerol carbonate have proven particularly suitable. In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains at least one solvent from the group consisting of glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, poly-Ci-Ce-alkylene glycols, dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, butylene carbonate and glycerol carbonate.

[0084] The solvent(s) are preferably used in the pretreatment agent (V) in amounts that are sufficiently high to slow down the dissolution or interaction of the carbamide peroxide, but on the other hand are so low that the product is not excessively polluted with solvents. The pretreatment agent (V) preferably contains - based on the total weight of the pretreatment agent (V) - one or more solvents from the group consisting of glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, poly-Ci-Ce-alkylene glycols, dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, butylene carbonate and glycerol carbonate in a total amount of 3.0 to 80% by weight, preferably of 5.0 to 60.0% by weight, more preferably of 9.0 to 40.0% by weight and very particularly preferably of 12.0 to 25.0% by weight.

[0085] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) - based on the total weight of the pretreatment agent (V) - contains one or more solvents from the group consisting of glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, poly-Ci-Ce-alkylene glycols, dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, butylene carbonate and glycerol carbonate in a total amount of 3.0 to 80 wt.%, preferably from 5.0 to 60.0 wt.%, more preferably from 9.0 to 40.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 12.0 to 25.0 wt.%.

[0086] Most preferably, the pretreatment agent (V) contains glycerol and 1,2-propanediol.

[0087] Explicitly most preferably, the pretreatment agent (V) contains - based on the total weight of the pretreatment agent (V) - 12.0 to 25.0 wt.% glycerol and 1.0 to 7.0 wt.% 1,2-propanediol.

[0088] Instead of or in addition to the aforementioned solvents, the pretreatment agent (V) can also contain one or more polyalkylene glycols. The polyalkylene glycols reduce the polarity of the cosmetic carrier. Increasing the proportion of polyalkylene glycol(s) in the pretreatment agent (V) also resulted in a reduction in hair damage and lightening of the pretreated keratin fibers. In this way, the subsequent application of the colorant (F) improved the washfastness and uniformity of the colorings without excessively damaging the keratin fibers and without lightening their original hair color. In this context, it is suspected that the dissolution of the carbamide peroxide or its reaction with the persulfates is also reduced by the polyalkylene glycols, causing the oxidizing agents to react with a time delay or only with the surface of the keratin fibers.

[0089] Polyalkylene glycols which are particularly suitable according to the invention are, for example, ethylene glycols of the formula (EG-V) where x is an integer from 1 to 10,000, preferably an integer from 2 to 500, more preferably an integer from 3 to 100 and most preferably an integer from 5 to 30.

[0090] The ethylene glycols of formula (EG-V) are protic substances with at least one hydroxyl group, which, due to their repeating unit -CH2-CH2-O-, can also be referred to as polyethylene glycols, provided x represents a value of at least 2. In the alkylene glycols of formula (EG-V), x represents an integer from 1 to 10,000.

[0091] Depending on their chain length, polyethylene glycols are liquid or solid, water-soluble polymers. Polyethylene glycols with a molecular weight between 200 g / mol and 400 g / mol are non-volatile liquids at room temperature. PEG 600 has a melting range of 17 to 22 °C and thus a paste-like consistency. With molecular weights above 3000 g / mol, PEGs are solid substances and are marketed as flakes or powders.

[0092] The use of low-molecular-weight alkylene glycols (or polyethylene glycols) has proven particularly suitable for achieving the object of the invention. For low-molecular-weight alkylene glycols (or polyethylene glycols) within the meaning of the present invention, x1 represents an integer from 1 to 100, preferably an integer from 1 to 80, more preferably an integer from 2 to 60, even more preferably an integer from 3 to 40, even more preferably an integer from 4 to 20, and most preferably an integer from 6 to 15. A particularly preferred low-molecular-weight polyethylene glycol is, for example, PEG-8. PEG-8 comprises an average of 8 ethylene glycol units (x1 = 8), has an average molecular weight of 400 g / mol, and bears the CAS number 25322-68-3. PEG-8 is also alternatively referred to as PEG 400 and is commercially available, for example, from APS.

[0093] Other suitable low molecular weight polyethylene glycols include PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-9 and PEG-10.

[0094] Another suitable polyethylene glycol is PEG-32. PEG-32 contains 32 ethylene glycol units (x1 = 32), has an average molecular weight of 1500 g / mol, and carries the CAS number 25322-68-3. PEG-32 is also known as PEG 1500 and can be purchased commercially, for example, from Clariant.

[0095] The polyalkylene glycol(s), in particular the polyethylene glycols of formula (EG-V), are preferably used in the pretreatment agent (V) in amounts that are sufficiently high to slow the dissolution or interaction of the carbamide peroxide, but on the other hand are low enough that the product is not excessively polluted with solvents. The pretreatment agent (V) preferably contains - based on the total weight of the pretreatment agent (V) - one or more ethylene glycols of formula (EG-V) in a total amount of 1.0 to 80% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 60.0% by weight, more preferably 3.0 to 40.0% by weight, and most preferably 4.5 to 10.0% by weight.

[0096] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) - based on the total weight of the pretreatment agent (V) - contains one or more ethylene glycols of the formula (EG-V) in a total amount of 1.0 to 80 wt.%, preferably 1.5 to 60.0 wt.%, more preferably 3.0 to 40.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 4.5 to 10.0 wt.%, where x is an integer from 1 to 10,000, preferably an integer from 2 to 500, more preferably an integer from 3 to 100 and most preferably an integer from 5 to 30.

[0097] Most preferably, the pretreatment agent (V) contains at least one solvent from the group described above and at least one polyethylene glycol of the formula (EG-V). In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the pretreatment agent (V) according to the invention contains

[0098] - one or more solvents from the group consisting of glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, poly-Ci-Ce-alkylene glycols, dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, butylene carbonate and glycerol carbonate, and

[0099] - one or more ethylene glycols of the formula described above (EG-V).

[0100] In order to inhibit the decomposition of the oxidizing agents, in particular carbamide peroxide, or to stabilize the oxidizing agents, it has also proven particularly preferable to adjust the water content in the pretreatment agent to a medium to low range. Therefore, it is particularly advantageous if the pretreatment agent (V) contains, based on the total weight of the pretreatment agent (V), 5.0 to 70.0 wt.%, preferably 10.0 to 60.0 wt.%, more preferably 15.0 to 50.0 wt.%, and very particularly preferably 20.0 to 40.0 wt.% water.

[0101] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) - based on the total weight of the pretreatment agent (V) - contains 5.0 to 70.0 wt.%, preferably 10.0 to 60.0 wt.%, more preferably 15.0 to 50.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 20.0 to 40.0 wt.% of water.

[0102] Dye (F)

[0103] After the application of the pretreatment agent (V), the keratin fibers, preferably human hair, are colored with a colorant (F).

[0104] The colorant (F) can be applied to moistened or dry keratin fibers. It can be applied, for example, using a brush, a nozzle, or the user can use a gloved hand. After a contact time of 5 to 60 minutes, preferably 10 to 45 minutes, the colorant can be rinsed out with water or with water and shampoo. The colorant (F) is rinsed out before the aftercare product (N) is applied.

[0105] The colorant (F) is the ready-to-use colorant that contains at least one direct dye (F-DZ) and can thus be applied directly to the keratin fibers in its present form. Direct dyes (F-DZ) in the colorant

[0106] The colorant (F) contains at least one direct dye (F-DZ). These are dyes that are absorbed directly into the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color. Direct dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, or indophenols.

[0107] The direct dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not considered pigments. Preferably, the direct dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 1.0 g / L.

[0108] The water solubility of direct dyes can be determined, for example, as follows: 0.1 g of the direct dye is placed in a beaker. A stir bar is attached. Then 100 ml of water is added. This mixture is heated to 25 °C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually assessed. If undissolved residues remain, the amount of water is increased – for example, in 10 ml increments. Water is added until the used amount of dye has completely dissolved. If the dye-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the dye, the mixture is filtered. If a portion of undissolved dye remains on the filter paper, the solubility test is repeated using a larger amount of water.If 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye dissolves in 100 ml of water at 25 °C, the solubility of the dye is 1.0 g / L.

[0109] Direct dyes can be divided into cationic, anionic, and non-ionic direct dyes. When used in the process according to the invention, good color results with outstanding fastness properties were achieved, particularly with cationic dyes (F-DZ). The greatest improvement in washfastness was observed when the hair was dyed using the process according to the invention with at least one cationic direct dye. Therefore, it is particularly preferred if the colorant (F) contains at least one cationic direct dye (F-DZ).

[0110] In a further embodiment, the method according to the invention for dyeing keratin fibers is characterized in that the dyeing agent (F) contains at least one direct dye (F-DZ) from the group of cationic, anionic, and / or non-ionic direct dyes, particularly preferably from the group of cationic direct dyes. Preferred cationic direct dyes are HC Blue 16, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347 / Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, and Basic Red 51.

[0111] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the colorant (F) contains at least one cationic direct dye (F-DZ) which is selected from the group consisting of HC Blue 16, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347 / Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.

[0112] Dyes containing at least one non-ionic direct dye (F-DZ) could also be improved in terms of their wash fastness by using the aftertreatment agent (N).

[0113] Suitable non-ionic direct dyes include non-ionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes. Suitable non-ionic direct dyes are those known under the international designations "Dye Dye" and "Dye Dye" respectively.Handelsnamen HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1 , Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1 , HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11 , HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1 1 , HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 bekannten Verbindungen, sowie 1 ,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol, 2-Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1 ,4-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitro- benzol, 3-Nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2- Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1 -methylbenzol, 1-Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-5-chlor-2- nitrobenzol, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzol, 2-[(4-Amino-2- nitrophenyl)amino]-benzoesäure, 6-Nitro-1 ,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin, 2-Hydroxy-1 ,4-naphtho- chinon, Pikraminsäure und deren Salze, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitro- benzoesäure und 2-Chlor-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.

[0114] Suitable anionic direct dyes are the compounds known under the international names or trade names Bromophenol Blue, Tetrabromophenol Blue, Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57:1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1 and Acid Black 52.

[0115] The direct dye(s), in particular the cationic direct dye(s), can be used in the colorant (F) in various amounts depending on the desired color intensity. Particularly good results have been obtained when the colorant (F) contains one or more direct dyes in a total amount of 0.0001 to 10.0 wt. %, preferably 0.01 to 7.5 wt. %, more preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt. %, and most preferably 0.2 to 1.5 wt. %, based on the total weight of the colorant (F).

[0116] In a further embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the colorant (F) contains - based on the total weight of the colorant (F) - one or more direct dyes (F-DZ) in a total amount of 0.0001 to 10.0 wt. %, preferably 0.01 to 7.5 wt. %, more preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt. %, and most preferably 0.2 to 1.5 wt. %. Other ingredients in the colorant (F)

[0117] In addition to the direct dye(s) (F-DZ), the colorant (F) may optionally also contain other ingredients.

[0118] Thus, the coloring agent (F) can also contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and / or anionic surfactants, thickening polymers, film-forming polymers, structuring agents such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and cephalins; perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure-improving active ingredients, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; dyes for coloring the agent; anti-dandruff active ingredients such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole; amino acids and oligopeptides; protein hydrolysates of animal and / or plant origin, as well as in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or, if appropriate, anionically or cationically modified derivatives; Sunscreens and UV blockers;Active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinone carboxylic acids and their salts and bisabolol; polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; plant extracts; fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins; swelling and penetrating agents such as glycerin, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate; as well as propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air.

[0119] The expert will select these additional substances based on the desired properties of the agent. Regarding further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the expert. The additional active ingredients and excipients are preferably used in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.0001 to 25 wt.%, in particular 0.0005 to 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the respective agent.

[0120] Aftercare products

[0121] Following the application of the colorant (F), the after-treatment agent (N) is applied to the keratin fibers. The after-treatment agent (N) contains at least one nitrogen-containing compound selected from the group of organic amino-Ci-Ce-alkyl-Ci-Ce-alkoxysilanes (N-silane), which form a uniform and smooth film around the surface of the dyed keratin fibers, thus preventing the substantive dyes from washing out.

[0122] The after-treatment agent (N) can, for example, be applied to the keratin fibers still damp from washing out the coloring agent (F) or to the dried keratin fibers. It is also possible to apply the after-treatment agent (N) to the still damp or dried keratin fibers after washing the colored keratin fibers. Organic amino-Ci-Cs-alkyl-Ci-Cs-alkoxy-silanes (N-silane) in the after-treatment agent (N)

[0123] As an essential component, the aftertreatment agent used in the process according to the invention contains at least one nitrogen-containing compound selected from the group of organic amino-Ci-Ce-alkyl-Ci-Ce-alkoxy-silanes (N-silane).

[0124] According to the lUPAC rules, the term silane refers to a group of chemical compounds based on a silicon backbone and hydrogen. In organic silanes, the hydrogen atoms are completely or partially replaced by organic groups such as (substituted) alkyl groups and / or alkoxy groups. In organic silanes, some of the hydrogen atoms can also be replaced by hydroxy groups.

[0125] Organic amino-Ci-Ce-alkyl-Ci-Ce-alkoxysilanes contain at least one amino group as part of their structural unit, which can also be substituted and thus represent an alkylamino group, a dialkylamino group, or a trialkylamino group. This amino group is linked to the silane part of the molecular structure via a Ci-Ce-alkylene linker (abbreviated to Ci-Ce-alkyl in the above designation).

[0126] The silicon atom forming the silane also contains one to three C1-C8 alkoxy groups, which can hydrolyze in the presence of water and thus represent reactive groups. The C1-C8 alkoxy group(s) is preferably an ethoxy group and / or a methoxy group.

[0127] Particularly suitable silanes (N-silane) are the silanes of the formula (I) RiR2N-L-Si(OR3) a (R4)b (I), stand

[0128] - Ri, R2independently represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-Ce alkyl group,

[0129] - L represents a linear or branched, divalent Ci-Ce-alkylene group,

[0130] - R3 represents a Ci-Ce alkyl group,

[0131] - R4 represents a Ci-Ce alkyl group,

[0132] - a, for an integer from 1 to 3, and

[0133] - b for the integer 3 - a.

[0134] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) contains at least one organic amino-Ci-Ce-alkyl-Ci-Ce-alkoxy-silane (N-silane) of the formula (I) and / or its hydrolysis and / or condensation products,

[0135] RiR2N-L-Si(OR3) a (R4)b (I), where

[0136] Ri, R2independently represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-Ce-alkyl group,

[0137] L represents a linear or branched, divalent Ci-Ce-alkylene group,

[0138] R3 represents a Ci-Ce alkyl group, R4 represents a Ci-Ce alkyl group, a represents an integer from 1 to 3, and b represents the integer 3 - a.

[0139] The substituents Ri, R2, R3, R4 and L in the compounds of formula (I) and (II) are exemplified below:

[0140] Examples of a C1-C8-alkyl group are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl and t-butyl, n-pentyl and n-hexyl. Propyl, ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. Examples of a C2-C8-alkenyl group are vinyl, allyl, but-2-enyl, but-3-enyl and isobutenyl; preferred C2-C8-alkenyl radicals are vinyl and allyl. Examples of a linear divalent C1-C20-alkylene group are, for example, the methylene group (-CH2-), the ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), the propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) and the butylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-). The propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) is particularly preferred. From a chain length of 3 carbon atoms, divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched, divalent C3-C2o alkylene groups are (-CH2-CH(CH3)-) and (-CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-). In the organic silicon compounds of formula (I)

[0141] RiR2N-L-Si(OR3) a(R4)b (I), the radicals R1 and R2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-Ce alkyl group. Most preferably, the radicals R1 and R2 both represent a hydrogen atom.

[0142] In the middle part of the organic silicon compound is the structural unit or linker -L- which stands for a linear or branched, divalent Ci-Ce-alkylene group.

[0143] A divalent Ci-Ce alkylene group can alternatively be referred to as a divalent or divalent Ci-Ce alkylene group, meaning that each group L can form two bonds. One bond is from the amino group RIR2N to the linker L, and the second bond is between the linker L and the silicon atom.

[0144] Preferably, -L- represents a linear, divalent (i.e., divalent) C1-C8-alkylene group. More preferably, -L- represents a linear, divalent C1-C4-alkylene group. More preferably, -L- represents a methylene group (-CH2-), an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-), or a butylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-). Most preferably, L represents a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-).

[0145] The linear propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) can alternatively be referred to as propane-1,3-diyl group.

[0146] The organic silicon compounds of formula (I)

[0147] RiR2N-L-Si(OR3) a (R4)b (I), each carry at one end the silicon-containing group -Si(OR3) a (R4)b

[0148] In the terminal structural unit -Si(OR3) aIn (R4)b, the radical R3 represents a C1-C8 alkyl group, and the radical R4 represents a C1-C8 alkyl group. Particularly preferably, R3 and R4 independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.

[0149] Here, a stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and b stands for the integer 3 - a. If a stands for the number 3, then b is equal to 0. If a stands for the number 2, then b is equal to 1. If a stands for the number 1, then b is equal to 2. If the index number a stands for the number 2 or 3, several OR3 units are present in the silane molecule of the formula (I). In this case, the radical R3 in each of the OR3 units can be chosen independently of the other OR3 units. For example, if a stands for the number 3, the silane molecule comprises three OR3 units, of which one unit can represent a hydroxy group and two units can represent an ethoxy group.

[0150] Particularly resistant films could be produced if the aftertreatment agent (N) contains at least one organic silicon compound (N-silane) of the formula (I), in which, independently of one another, the radical R3 stands for a methyl group or an ethyl group and the radical R4 stands for a methyl group or an ethyl group.

[0151] When using the process for dyeing human hair, dyeings with the best wash fastness and leveling properties could be obtained if the aftertreatment agent (N) contains at least one organic silicon compound (N-silane) of the formula (I), in which, independently of one another,

[0152] - the radical R3 represents a methyl group or an ethyl group, and

[0153] - the residue R4 stands for a methyl group or an ethyl group.

[0154] Furthermore, dyeings with the best washfastness properties could be obtained when the aftertreatment agent (N) contains at least one organic silicon compound of formula (I) in which the radical a represents the number 3. In this case, the radical b represents the number 0.

[0155] In a further preferred embodiment, the aftertreatment agent (N) used in the process is characterized in that it contains at least one organic silicon compound (N-silane) of the formula (I), where

[0156] - R3 represents a methyl group or an ethyl group, and

[0157] - R4 represents a methyl group or an ethyl group, and

[0158] - a stands for the number 3, and

[0159] - b stands for the number 0.

[0160] Organic amino acids which are particularly suitable for solving the problem according to the invention

[0161] Ci-C6-alkyl-Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (I).

[0162] - (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane - (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane

[0163] - (2-Aminoethyl)triethoxysilane

[0164] - (2-Aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane

[0165] - (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane

[0166] - (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane

[0167]

[0168] - (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane.

[0169] - (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and

[0170] When used in a water-containing carrier, complete hydrolysis of the aforementioned organic amino-Ci-C6-alkyl-Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes (N-silane) leads to the corresponding silanetriols. These include, for example, the following compounds.

[0171] 1 -(2-Dimethylaminoethyl)silanetriol

[0172] 1-(2-Aminoethyl)silanetriol

[0173] 1 -(3-Dimethylaminopropyl)silanetriol

[0174] The partial and complete hydrolysis products are also encompassed by the subject matter of the present invention.

[0175] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) contains one or more amino-Ci-Ce-alkyl-Ci-Ce-alkoxy-silanes (N-silane) which are selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or their hydrolysis and / or condensation products.

[0176] The aforementioned organic silicon compounds of formula (I) are commercially available. (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, for example, can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich. (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.

[0177] It has been found to be preferred if the aftertreatment agent (N) - based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent (N) - contains one or more organic amino-Ci-Ce-alkyl-Ci-Ce-alkoxy-silanes (N-silane) and / or their hydrolysis and / or condensation products in a total amount of 0.1 to 20 wt.%, preferably 1 to 15 wt.%, more preferably 2 to 12 wt.% and particularly preferably 2 to 8 wt.%.

[0178] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) contains - based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent (N) - one or more organic amino-Ci-Ce-alkyl-Ci-Ce-alkoxysilanes (N-silane) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20 wt. %, preferably 1 to 15 wt. %, more preferably 2 to 12 wt. %, and particularly preferably 2 to 8 wt. %. In further dyeing tests, it has also been found to be particularly advantageous if the aftertreatment agent (N) used in the process additionally contains at least one further organic silicon compound (N-silane2) of the formula (II).

[0179] R5Si(OR6)k(R7)m (II).

[0180] The organic silicon compound(s) of formula (II) can also be referred to as silanes of the alkylalkoxysilane type,

[0181] R5Si(OR6)k(R7)m (II), where

[0182] - R5 represents a Ci-Cia-alkyl group,

[0183] - Re represents a Ci-Ce alkyl group,

[0184] - R7 represents a Ci-Ce-alkyl group

[0185] - k is an integer from 1 to 3, and

[0186] - m stands for the integer 3 - k.

[0187] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) contains at least one organic silicon compound (N-silane2) of the formula (II) and / or its hydrolysis and / or condensation products,

[0188] R5Si(OR6)k(R7)m (II), where

[0189] - R5 represents a Ci-Cia-alkyl group,

[0190] - Re represents a Ci-Ce alkyl group,

[0191] - R7 represents a Ci-Ce-alkyl group

[0192] - k is an integer from 1 to 3, and

[0193] - m stands for the integer 3 - k.

[0194] In the organic silicon compounds of formula (II), the radical R5 represents a C1-C18 alkyl group. This C1-C18 alkyl group is saturated and can be linear or branched. R5 preferably represents a linear C1-C18 alkyl group. R5 preferably represents a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an n-butyl group, an n-pentyl group, an n-hexyl group, an n-octyl group, an n-dodecyl group, or an n-octadecyl group. R5 particularly preferably represents a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-hexyl group, or an n-octyl group.

[0195] In the organic silicon compounds of form (II), the radical Re represents a Ci-Ce-alkyl group.

[0196] Particularly preferably, Re represents a methyl group or an ethyl group. If the index number k represents the number 2 or 3, multiple ORe units are present in the silane molecule of formula (II). In this case, the radical Re in each of the ORe units can be chosen independently of the other ORe units. For example, if k represents the number 3, the silane molecule comprises three ORe units, of which, for example, one unit can represent a methoxy group and two units an ethoxy group.

[0197] In the organic silicon compounds of form (II), the radical R? represents a Ci-Ce-alkyl group. Particularly preferably, R? represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.

[0198] Furthermore, k represents an integer from 1 to 3, and m represents the integer 3 - k. If k represents the number 3, then m is 0. If k represents the number 2, then m is 1. If k represents the number 1, then m is 2.

[0199] Particularly stable films, ie dyeings with particularly good washfastness, could be obtained when a post-treatment agent (N) was used in the process which, in addition to the silane(s) (N-silane) of formula (I), contained at least one organic silicon compound of formula (II) in which the radical k represents the number 3. In this case, the radical m represents the number 0.

[0200] Organic silicon compounds of the formula (II) which are particularly suitable for solving the problem according to the invention are

[0201] - Methyltrimethoxysilane - Ethyltrimethoxysilane

[0202] - n-hexyltrimethoxysilane

[0203] - n-octyltrimethoxysilane

[0204]

[0205] - n-dodecyltrimethoxysilane and / or

[0206] - n-Dodecyltriethoxysilane. n-octadecyltrimethoxysilane and / or n-octadecyltriethoxysilane.

[0207] When used in a water-containing medium, these compounds also hydrolyze and, upon complete hydrolysis, form the corresponding triols. These partial or complete hydrolysis products are also encompassed by the subject matter of the present invention. In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) contains one or more organic Ci-Cis-alkyl-Ci-Ce-alkoxysilanes (N-silane2) selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltrimethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane and / or their hydrolysis and / or condensation products.

[0208] It has been found to be preferred if the aftertreatment agent (N) - based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent (N) - contains one or more organic Ci-Ci8-alkyl-Ci-Ce-alkoxysilanes (N-silane2) and / or their hydrolysis and / or condensation products in a total amount of 0.1 to 30.0 wt.%, preferably of 0.5 to 20.0 wt.%, more preferably of 5.0 to 15.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably of 6.0 to 8.0 wt.%.

[0209] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) - based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent (N) - contains one or more organic Ci-Ci8-alkyl-Ci-Ce-alkoxysilanes (N-silane2) and / or their hydrolysis and / or condensation products in a total amount of 0.1 to 30.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 20.0 wt.%, more preferably 5.0 to 15.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 6.0 to 8.0 wt.%.

[0210] In an explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, a method is characterized in that a post-treatment agent (N) is applied to the keratinic fibers, which contains at least one organic amino-Ci-Ce-alkyl-Ci-Ce-alkoxy-silane (N-silane) selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane and (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, and additionally contains at least one organic Ci-Cis-alkyl-Ci-Ce-alkoxy-silane (N-silane2) selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane and hexyltriethoxysilane.

[0211] Oligomers and / or condensation products of silicon-orqanic compounds

[0212] In the case of the previously described organic silicon compounds or the silanes of formulas (I) and (II), even the addition of small amounts of water leads to hydrolysis or oligomerization and / or polymerization. The extent of oligomerization or polymerization depends on the amount of water that comes into contact with the silane(s) of formulas (I) or (II). The aim of the process according to the invention is that the formation of the colored film, i.e., the final polymerization emanating from the silanes (N-silane), occurs when the aftertreatment agent (N) is already present on the keratin fibers. However, due to the high reactivity of the silanes (N-silane) (or (N-silane) and (N-silane2)), oligomerization or precondensation may have already taken place before the application of the post-treatment agent (N), and the silanes may already be hydrolyzed, oligomerized or, to a small extent, polymerized in the post-treatment agent (N).

[0213] For this reason, both the silanes (N-silane) (or the silanes of formulas (I) or (II)) and their hydrolysis products, oligomers, and / or condensation products can be present in the aftertreatment agent (N). According to the invention, the term "silanes of formula (I) or (II)" therefore also encompasses their hydrolysis products, oligomers, and / or condensation products.

[0214] The corresponding hydrolysis products, oligomers and / or condensation products are, for example, the following compounds.

[0215] Hydrolysis of Ci-Ce-alkoxysilane of formula (I) with water (reaction scheme using the example of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane):

[0216] Depending on the amount of water used, the hydrolysis reaction can also take place several times per Ci-Ce-alkoxy silane used: Hydrolysis of Ci-Ce-alkoxysilane of formula (II) with water (reaction scheme using the example of

[0217] Methyltrimethoxysilane):

[0218] OMe OMe

[0219] CH3— Si— OMe + H2O - ► CH3— S —OH + MeOH

[0220] OMe OMe

[0221] Depending on the amount of water used, the hydrolysis reaction can also take place several times per Ci-Ce-alkoxy silane used:

[0222] OMe 0H

[0223] CH3Si OMe + 2 H2O - ► CH3 — Si — OH + 2 MeOH

[0224] OMe OMe or

[0225] Possible condensation reactions are, for example (shown using the mixture (3-

[0226] Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane and methyltrimethoxysilane): and / or and / or

[0227] In the above exemplary reaction schemes, the condensation to a dimer is shown, but further condensations to oligomers with several silanes are also possible.

[0228] atoms possible and also preferred.

[0229] A condensation product is a product formed by the reaction of at least two organic silicon compounds, each containing at least one hydroxyl group or hydrolyzable group per molecule, with the elimination of water and / or an alkanol. The condensation products can be, for example, dimers, but also trimers or oligomers, with the condensation products being in equilibrium with the monomers. Depending on the amount of water used or consumed in the hydrolysis, the equilibrium shifts from monomeric organic silicon compounds to condensation product.

[0230] Particularly good results were obtained when silanes of formulas (I) and (II) were used in the process. Since, as already described above, hydrolysis / condensation begins even with traces of moisture, the hydrolysis and / or condensation products of the organic silicon compounds (I) and (II) are also encompassed by this embodiment.

[0231] Cosmetic carrier of the aftercare product (N)

[0232] The aftertreatment agent (N) particularly preferably contains the silane(s) (N-silane) (or the silanes (N-silane) and (N-silane2)) in a cosmetic carrier. The aftertreatment agent (N) is preferably formulated with little or no water, which is why this cosmetic carrier is preferably not water. Particularly suitable as cosmetic carriers are, for example, the compounds from the group consisting of ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, poly-Ci-Ce-alkylene glycols, dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, butylene carbonate and glycerol carbonate. Ethanol and isopropanol have shown particularly good suitability in this case.

[0233] Within the scope of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) contains at least one solvent other than water, which is selected from the group consisting of ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, poly-Ci-Ce-alkylene glycols, dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, butylene carbonate and glycerol carbonate, preferably from the group consisting of ethanol and isopropanol, particularly preferably ethanol.

[0234] 1,2-Propylene glycol is alternatively also called 1,2-propanediol and has the CAS numbers 57-55-6 [(RS)-1,2-dihydroxypropane], 4254-14-2 [(R)-1,2-dihydroxypropane] and 4254-153 [(S)-1,2-dihydroxypropane], 1,3-Propylene glycol is alternatively also called 1,3-dihydroxypropane or as

[0235] 1,3-Propanediol is called 1,3-propanediol and has the CAS number 504-63-2. 1,2-Butylene glycol can also be called 1,2-butanediol and has the CAS numbers 584-03-2 (racemate), 40348-66-1 ((R)-enantiomer) and 73522-17-5 ((S)-enantiomer). The dipropylene glycols (or oxydipropanols) form a group of substances derived from the glycol ether. The group of dipropylene glycols includes 2,2'-oxydi-1-propanol with CAS number 108-61 and 2,1,1'-oxydi-2-propanol with CAS number 108-61. 110-98-5 and 2-(2-hydroxypropoxy)-1-propanol with CAS No. 106-62-7. The mixture of these three isomers has CAS No. 25265-71-8.

[0236] Ethanol has the CAS No. 64-17-5. Isopropanol is also known as 2-propanol and has the CAS No. 67-63-0. Ethylene glycol is also known as 1,2-ethanediol and has the CAS No. 107-21-1.

[0237] Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether can alternatively be referred to as ethoxydiglycol or ethyldiglycol or 2-(2-ethoxyethoxy)ethanol) and has the CAS No. 111-90-0.

[0238] Glycerin is also known as 1,2,3-propanetriol and has the CAS number 56-81-5. Phenoxyethanol has the CAS number 122-99-6. Benzyl alcohol can also be known as phenylmethanol and has the CAS number 100-51-6.

[0239] All solvents described above are commercially available from various chemical suppliers such as Aldrich or Fluka.

[0240] Within the scope of a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) - based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent (N) - contains 1.0 to 90.0 wt.%, preferably from 5.0 to 75 wt.%, more preferably from 10.0 to 55 wt.%, even more preferably from 15.0 to 45 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 15.0 to 25.0 wt.% of ethanol.

[0241] Another solvent well-suited for the post-treatment agent (N) is ethylene glycol, which belongs to the group of poly-Ci-Ce-alkylene glycols and contains repeating CH2-CH2-O units. Ethylene glycols are compounds of the formula (EG-N) (EG-N), where y is an integer from 1 to 10,000, preferably an integer from 2 to 500, more preferably an integer from 3 to 100, and most preferably an integer from 5 to 30. If y is the number 1, the ethylene glycol of the formula (EG-N) is ethylene glycol itself, which is alternatively also referred to as 1,2-ethanediol and has the CAS number 107-21-1.

[0242] The polyethylene glycols of formula (EG-N) are protic substances with at least two hydroxyl groups, which, due to their repeating unit -CH2-CH2-O-, where y represents a value of at least 2, can also be referred to as polyalkylene glycols or polyethylene glycols. In the alkylene glycols of formula (EG-N), y represents an integer from 1 to 10,000. The work leading to this invention has shown that these polyethylene glycols are particularly suitable for improving the fastness properties of colorants and for optimally adjusting their viscosity.

[0243] Depending on their chain length, polyethylene glycols are liquid or solid, water-soluble polymers. Polyethylene glycols with a molecular weight between 200 g / mol and 400 g / mol are non-volatile liquids at room temperature. PEG 600 has a melting range of 17 to 22 °C and thus a paste-like consistency. With molecular weights above 3000 g / mol, PEGs are solid substances and are marketed as flakes or powders.

[0244] The use of low-molecular-weight alkylene glycols (or polyethylene glycols) has proven particularly suitable for achieving the object of the invention. For low-molecular-weight alkylene glycols (or polyethylene glycols) within the meaning of the present invention, y represents an integer from 1 to 100, preferably an integer from 1 to 80, more preferably an integer from 2 to 60, even more preferably an integer from 3 to 40, even more preferably an integer from 4 to 20, and most preferably an integer from 6 to 15.

[0245] A particularly preferred low-molecular-weight polyethylene glycol is PEG-8. PEG-8 contains an average of 8 ethylene glycol units (y1 = 8), has an average molecular weight of 400 g / mol, and bears the CAS number 25322-68-3. PEG-8 is also known as PEG 400 and is commercially available, for example, from APS.

[0246] Other suitable low molecular weight polyethylene glycols include PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-9 and PEG-10.

[0247] Another suitable polyethylene glycol is PEG-32. PEG-32 comprises 32 ethylene glycol units (y1 = 32), has an average molecular weight of 1500 g / mol, and bears the CAS number 25322-68-3. PEG-32 is also alternatively referred to as PEG 1500 and can be purchased commercially, for example, from Clariant. Furthermore, the use of high-molecular-weight polyethylene glycols has also proven well-suited for solving the problem of the invention.

[0248] A particularly suitable high-molecular-weight polyethylene glycol is PEG 6000, which is commercially available from National Starch (China). The molecular weight of PEG 6000 is between 6000 and 7500 g / mol, corresponding to a y2 value of 136 to 171.

[0249] Another suitable polyethylene glycol is PEG 12000, which is marketed commercially by CG Chemicals, for example, under the trade name Polyethylene Glycol 12000 S (or PEG 12000 S). The molecular weight of PEG 12000 is stated to be between 10,500 and 15,000 g / mol, corresponding to a y2 value of 238 to 341.

[0250] Another suitable polyethylene glycol is PEG 20000, which is commercially available from Clariant under the trade name Polyglycol 20000 P or under the alternative name PEG-350. PEG 20000 has an average molecular weight of 20000 g / mol, which corresponds to a y2 value of 454.

[0251] The solvent(s) are preferably used in specific quantity ranges in the aftertreatment agent (N). The aftertreatment agent (N) preferably contains—based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent (N)—one or more solvents other than water in a total amount of 1.0 to 90.0 wt. %, preferably 5.0 to 75 wt. %, more preferably 10.0 to 55 wt. %, even more preferably 15.0 to 45 wt. %, and most preferably 15.0 to 25.0 wt. %.

[0252] Within the scope of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) - based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent (N) - contains one or more solvents other than water in a total amount of 1.0 to 90.0 wt.%, preferably from 5.0 to 75 wt.%, more preferably from 10.0 to 55 wt.%, even more preferably from 15.0 to 45 wt.% and most preferably from 15.0 to 25.0 wt.%.

[0253] As a further optional component, the post-treatment agent (N) may additionally contain at least one fatty component that is liquid at 20°C. Like the solvents, the liquid fatty components can also further reduce the polarity of the post-treatment agent (N) and further increase the storage stability of the post-treatment agent. For the purposes of the invention, "fatty components" are understood to mean organic compounds with a solubility in water at room temperature (22°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 1 wt.%, preferably less than 0.1 wt.%. A fatty component that is liquid at 20°C has a melting point below 20°C (measured under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg)).

[0254] The definition of fatty components explicitly includes only uncharged (i.e., non-ionic) compounds. Fat components contain at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with at least 8 carbon atoms. The molecular weight of the fatty components is a maximum of 5000 g / mol, preferably a maximum of 2500 g / mol, and particularly preferably a maximum of 1000 g / mol. The fatty components are neither polyoxyalkylated nor polyglycerylated compounds.

[0255] Particularly suitable fatty components include, for example, linear or cyclic silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, liquid fatty acid triglycerides, liquid fatty alcohols and ester oils, provided that each compound from the aforementioned substance classes has a melting point below 20°C.

[0256] For the purposes of the present invention, only non-ionic substances are explicitly considered fatty components. Charged compounds such as fatty acids and their salts are not considered fatty components.

[0257] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) contains at least one fatty component which is liquid at 20 °C and is preferably selected from the group of linear or cyclic silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, liquid fatty acid triglycerides, liquid fatty alcohols, ester oils and mixtures thereof.

[0258] Silicone oils can also be referred to as oligoalkylsiloxanes and polyalkylsiloxanes that are liquid at 20 °C, i.e. the silicone oils have a melting point below 20 °C (at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Preferred linear silicone oils are oligoalkylsiloxanes of the general formula (V) where z is an integer from 0 to 10000, preferably an integer from 0 to 1000, more preferably an integer from 0 to 100, and most preferably an integer from 0 to 10.

[0259] Particularly preferred linear oligoalkylsiloxanes are, for example,

[0260] - Hexamethyldisiloxane

[0261] CH3CH3

[0262] H3C — Si — O — Si — CH3

[0263] CH3CH3

[0264] - Octamethyltrisiloxane

[0265] CH3CH3CH3

[0266] H3C — Si — O — Si — O — Si — CH3

[0267] CH3CH3CH3

[0268] - Decamethyltetrasiloxane

[0269] CH3CH3CH3CH3

[0270] H3C—Si—O—Si—O—Si—O—Si—CH3

[0271] CH3CH3CH3CH3

[0272] Hexamethyldisiloxane has the CAS number 107-46-0 and can be purchased commercially from Sigma-Aldrich, for example. Hexamethyldisiloxane is also sold commercially by Wacker under the trade name Belsil DM 0.65.

[0273] Octamethyltrisiloxane has the CAS number 107-51-7 and is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.

[0274] Decamethyltetrasiloxane has the CAS number 141-62-8 and is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.

[0275] Another particularly suitable silicone oil can be purchased commercially under the trade name Dimethicone Fluid 5 cSt from Clearco. This silicone oil has the generic name polydimethylsiloxane and has the CAS number 63148-62-9. The substance is a clear, colorless, and odorless liquid with a low viscosity.

[0276] Another particularly suitable silicone oil is available from Dow Corning under the trade name Xiameter PMX 200 (1.5 cSt). This oil is also a dimethicone, or polydimethylsiloxane, with the CAS number 63148-62-9.

[0277] Preferred cyclic oligoalkylsiloxanes are compounds of the general formula (VI) where p is an integer from 1 to 5. Preferably, p is the number 1, 2, or 3.

[0278] Particularly preferred cyclic oligoalkylsiloxanes are, for example,

[0279] - Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane

[0280] - Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane

[0281] - Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane

[0282] In a further preferred embodiment, an aftertreatment agent (N) according to the invention is characterized in that it contains as a fatty component at least one silicone oil of the formula (V) and / or (VI), where z is an integer from 0 to 10000, preferably an integer from 0 to 1000, more preferably an integer from 0 to 100, and most preferably an integer from 0 to 10, where p is an integer from 1 to 5, preferably an integer from 1 to 3.

[0283] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) contains at least one fatty component which is liquid at 20 °C and is selected from the group consisting of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and / or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, particularly preferably hexamethyldisiloxane.

[0284] In contrast to the reactive organic silicon compounds, in particular the silanes of formulas (I) and (II), the oligoalkylsiloxanes are composed exclusively of dialkylsilyl groups (especially dimethylsilyl groups) and trialkylsilyl groups (especially trimethylsilyl groups) linked to one another via oxygen atoms. Thus, the oligoalkylsiloxanes themselves are not reactive compounds within the meaning of this invention and do not possess any hydrolyzable groups.

[0285] Hydrocarbon oils are also particularly suitable fat components that are liquid at 20 °C.

[0286] Hydrocarbons are compounds with 8 to 80 carbon atoms consisting exclusively of carbon and hydrogen. Aliphatic hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils (e.g., paraffinium liquidum or paraffinum perliquidum), isoparaffin oils, and polydecenes are particularly preferred in this context. The hydrocarbons according to the invention are also characterized by having a melting point below 20°C under atmospheric pressure.

[0287] Liquid fatty acid triglycerides are also particularly suitable fat components that are liquid at 20 °C.

[0288] For the purposes of the present invention, a C12-C30 fatty acid triglyceride is understood to be the triester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with three equivalents of fatty acid. Both structurally identical and different fatty acids within a triglyceride molecule can participate in the ester formation, provided that the fatty acid triglyceride has a melting point below 20 °C.

[0289] For the purposes of the present invention, fatty acids are saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched, unsubstituted or substituted C12-C30 carboxylic acids. Unsaturated fatty acids can be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated. In an unsaturated fatty acid, its C–C double bond(s) can have the cis or trans configuration.

[0290] The fatty acid triglycerides are particularly suitable in which at least one of the ester groups is formed from glycerol with a fatty acid selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-octadeca-9,12-diene acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaeostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-lcosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid],

[0291] A further particularly preferred embodiment is therefore an agent for dyeing keratinic fibers, which is characterized in that it contains, as the fat component (c) liquid at 20 °C, a naturally occurring fatty acid triglyceride and / or mixtures of naturally occurring fatty acid triglycerides which are contained in soybean oil, peanut oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, macadamia nut oil, moringa oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil and / or optionally hydrogenated castor oil.

[0292] Liquid fatty alcohols are also particularly suitable fat components that are liquid at 20 °C.

[0293] Preferred linear, unsaturated fatty alcohols are (9Z)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9E)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z)-eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidonic alcohol ((5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol) and / or brassidyl alcohol ((13E)-Docosen-1-ol). An example of a branched liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyldodecanol.

[0294] Ester oils are also particularly suitable fatty components that are liquid at 20°C. Ester oils are esters of C12-C30 fatty acids with aliphatic C1-C24 alcohols that are liquid at room temperature (20°C). In other words, ester oils according to the invention are characterized by having a melting point below 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1013 mbar).

[0295] A particularly strong improvement in the hair feel could be obtained when a post-treatment agent was applied to the previously colored hair, which contained at least one ester oil selected from the group consisting of monoesters of C12-C24 fatty acids with aliphatic, monohydric C12-C24 alcohols.

[0296] In a further embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent contains at least one fatty component from the group of esters of a Ci2-C30 fatty acid and an aliphatic, monohydric Ci-C24 alcohol.

[0297] Within the group of C12-C30 fatty acids, C12-C24 fatty acids are particularly well-suited. Examples of C12-C24 fatty acids suitable for the formation of ester oils are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, and erucic acid, as well as their technical mixtures.Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol as well as their technical mixtures.

[0298] These C12-C24 fatty acids are esterified by reaction with an aliphatic C12-C24 alcohol, which is particularly preferably a monoalcohol, so that a monoester is formed during esterification.

[0299] The aliphatic Ci-C24 alcohols can be linear or branched, saturated, or mono- or polyunsaturated.

[0300] As an aliphatic saturated Ci-C24 alcohol, for example, an alcohol selected from the group consisting of methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, n-pentanol, 2-ethylhexanol, n-hexanol, n-octanol, n-decanol and n-dodecanol can be used.

[0301] Examples of monohydric, unsaturated, Ci-C24 alcohol are oleyl alcohol (octadec-9-en-1-ol), palmitoleyl alcohol (c / s-9-hexadecen-1-ol), elaidyl alcohol (trans-9-octadecen-1-ol) and c / s-11-octadecen-1-ol.

[0302] To form the esters, the Ci2-C24 fatty acids and the Ci-Ci2 alcohols are selected so that the ester formed by esterification of both reactants is an ester oil, ie it has a melting point below 20 °C at 1013 mbar.

[0303] Some ester oils according to the invention can be used in the form of commercially available raw materials, which are mixtures of esters obtained from fatty acids of different chain lengths and / or alcohols of different chain lengths. These raw materials can have a melting range. For these raw materials, a melting point below 20°C means that the melting process begins at a temperature below 20°C.

[0304] For example, if an ester oil in the form of a specific raw material can be used in the medium, whereby this raw material has a melting range of 16 to 27 °C, then this raw material contains at least one ester oil with a melting point below 20 °C. This ester oil is therefore in accordance with the invention.

[0305] Particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), isononanoic acid C16-18-alkyl esters (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate Z-caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V).

[0306] The ester oil is most preferably selected from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl esters, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, cetyl oleate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, hexyl laurate, cetearyl isononanoate and decyl oleate.

[0307] Isopropyl myristate is also known as isopropyl myristic acid ester and has the CAS number 110-27-0. Isopropyl myristate is a colorless, odorless liquid. Its melting point is 0-1 °C.

[0308] 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate is also known as hexadecanoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and has the CAS number 29806-73-3. 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate is a branched, saturated ester oil of palmitic acid and ethylhexyl alcohols. At room temperature, 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly greasy odor. Isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester is also known as cetearyl isononanoate; this ester has the CAS numbers 84878-33-1 and 84878-34-2. Isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester is a clear, slightly yellowish liquid. At 20 °C, isononanoic acid C16-18-alkyl ester has a viscosity of 19 - 22 mPas.

[0309] Stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester is also known as ethylhexyl stearate and has the CAS number 91031-48-0. Stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester is a clear, slightly yellowish, thin oil. At 20 °C, stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester has a viscosity of 14-16 mPas and is therefore an oil at room temperature.

[0310] Cetyl oleate has the CAS number 22393-86-8.

[0311] Coconut fatty alcohol caprylate / caprate has the CAS number 95912-86-0. It is a mixture of C8-C10 fatty acids with C12-C18 fatty alcohols. It is a yellow liquid with a melting point of 10 °C. n-Butyl stearate is also known as stearic acid butyl ester and has the CAS numbers 85408-76-0 (C16-C18) and 123-95-5 (C18). n-Butyl stearate is a yellowish liquid and begins to melt at 16 °C.

[0312] Oleylerucate has the CAS number 17673-56-2. Oleylerucate is a yellow liquid. At 20 °C, it has a viscosity of 40-50 mPas, making it an oil at room temperature.

[0313] Isopropyl palmitate is also known as propan-2-yl hexadecanoate and has the CAS number 142-91-6. The melting point of isopropyl palmitate is 13.5 °C.

[0314] Oleyl oleate is also known as cis-9,10-octadecenyl-cis-9,10-octadecanoate or oleic acid oleyl ester and has the CAS number 3687-45-4. Oleyl oleate is a clear, slightly yellowish oil with a viscosity of 25-30 mPas at 20 °C and is an oil at room temperature.

[0315] Lauric acid hexyl ester is also known as hexyl laurate and has the CAS number 34316-64-8. Lauric acid hexyl ester is a clear, yellowish, odorless oil at room temperature. At 20 °C, lauric acid hexyl ester has a viscosity of 5-7 mPas and is therefore an oil at room temperature. Cetearyl isononanoate is also known as isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester and has the CAS numbers 84878-33-1 and 84878-34-2. Cetearyl isononanoate is a yellowish liquid with a melting point of 16-22 °C.

[0316] Decyl oleate is also known as decyl oleate and has the CAS number 3687-46-5. Decyl oleate is a slightly yellowish liquid with a viscosity of 15-20 mPas at 20 °C. Decyl oleate is therefore an oil at room temperature.

[0317] Preferably, the fatty constituent(s) liquid at 20°C are used in certain quantity ranges in the aftertreatment agent (N) according to the invention. Particularly good results were obtained when the aftertreatment agent (N) - based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent (N) - contained one or more fatty constituents liquid at 20°C in a total amount of 1.0 to 99 wt.%, preferably 1.0 to 95.0 wt.%, preferably 10.0 to 90 wt.%, more preferably 30.0 to 85 wt.%, even more preferably 40.0 to 80 wt.% and most preferably 50.0 to 75 wt.%.

[0318] Within the scope of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) - based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent (N) - contains one or more fatty components which are liquid at 20 °C in a total amount of 1.0 to 95.0 wt.%, preferably from 10.0 to 90 wt.%, more preferably from 30.0 to 85 wt.%, even more preferably from 40.0 to 80 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 50.0 to 75 wt.%.

[0319] The very best results were obtained with a post-treatment agent (N) which

[0320] - based on its total weight -

[0321] - from 15.0 to 45 wt% ethanol and

[0322] - contained 40.0 to 80 wt.% hexamethyldisiloxane.

[0323] It is understood that the amounts used of all components in the aftertreatment agent (N) together cannot add up to more than 100% by weight.

[0324] The post-treatment agent (N) is intended to improve the washfastness of the direct dyes previously applied in the dyeing step, but is not a dye itself and therefore preferably does not contain any color-imparting compounds. Thus, the post-treatment agent (N) does not contain any oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes, or pigments.

[0325] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) contains no color-providing compounds from the group of oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes, and pigments. Pigments within the meaning of the present invention are understood to mean color-providing compounds which, at 25°C, have a solubility in water of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, and even more preferably less than 0.05 g / L. The water solubility can be determined, for example, using the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed into a beaker. A stirring bar is added. Then, one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25°C for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer.If undissolved pigment components are still visible in the mixture after this period, the pigment's solubility is below 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be visually assessed due to the high intensity of the pigment, possibly in finely dispersed form, the mixture is filtered. If a portion of undissolved pigment remains on the filter paper, the pigment's solubility is below 0.5 g / L.

[0326] Sequence of procedural steps

[0327] As previously described, the pretreatment agent (V) is applied before the application of the colorant (F). In this context, it has proven particularly preferable to apply the pretreatment agent (V) to the keratin material, allow it to work for a certain period of time, and then rinse it off with water. The application of the colorant (F) is then followed by the application of the post-treatment agent (N).

[0328] In other words, the process for dyeing keratin fibers, especially human hair, includes the following steps in the given order:

[0329] - application of a pretreatment agent (V) to the keratin fibres, which contains at least one alkalising agent (V-Alkali) and / or at least one oxidising agent (V-Ox),

[0330] - application of a dye (F) to the keratin fibres containing at least one direct dye (F-DZ), and

[0331] - Applying a post-treatment agent (N) to the keratin fibers, which contains at least one nitrogen-containing compound selected from the group of organic amino-Ci-Ce-alkyl-Ci-Ce-alkoxy-silanes (N-silane).

[0332] In a further embodiment, a particularly preferred method is also particularly preferred for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps in the given order:

[0333] (1) Applying the pretreatment agent (V) to the keratin fibers,

[0334] (2) allowing the pretreatment agent applied in step (1) to act on the keratin fibres for a period of 2 to 45 minutes, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes and particularly preferably from 2 to 20 minutes,

[0335] (3) if necessary, rinsing the pretreatment agent (V) with water, (4) applying the colorant (F) to the keratin fibers, and

[0336] (5) allowing the dye applied in step (4) to act on the keratin fibres for a period of 15 seconds to 45 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 30 minutes and particularly preferably from 1 to 15 minutes,

[0337] (6) Rinsing the dye (F) with water,

[0338] (7) Applying the after-treatment agent (N) to the keratin fibres,

[0339] (8) Exposure of the after-treatment agent (N) for a period of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes,

[0340] (9) if necessary, rinsing out the after-treatment agent (N).

[0341] By successively applying agents (V), (F), and (N), the washfastness of the color on the keratin fibers can be improved. Furthermore, the color shift caused by washout is minimized. To maximize this effect, agents (V), (F), and (N) should be applied as close together as possible.

[0342] In step (1) of the method according to the invention, a pretreatment agent (V) containing at least one oxidizing agent is applied to the hair.

[0343] In the next step, the previously applied pretreatment agent (V) is allowed to act on the keratin fibers. Various exposure times are possible, ranging from 2 to 45 minutes, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, and particularly preferably from 2 to 20 minutes.

[0344] After the pretreatment agent (V) has been applied to the keratin fibers, it can finally be rinsed out with water in step (3). The pretreatment agent (V) can either be washed out with water alone, i.e., without the aid of a shampoo, or the wash-out process can be assisted by using a shampoo. It is particularly preferred if the pretreatment agent is washed out again after application and exposure.

[0345] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) is rinsed out with water or with water and a surfactant before the application of the colorant (F).

[0346] In principle, the user can now freely choose the period between the application of the two agents (V) and (F).

[0347] However, it may be preferable that no further products, such as other conditioners or styling products, are applied between the application of the two products (V) and (F). In this way, the maximum period between the application of the two products (V) and (F) is preferably limited to a maximum of 24 hours.

[0348] It has been found to be preferable if there is a period of maximum 24 hours, preferably maximum 12 hours, more preferably maximum 6 hours and most preferably maximum 3 hours between rinsing out the pretreatment agent (V) with water and applying a colorant (F) to the keratin fibers.

[0349] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that there is a period of maximum 48 hours, preferably maximum 24 hours, more preferably maximum 12 hours, even more preferably maximum 6 hours and most preferably maximum 3 hours between the application of the pretreatment agent (V) and the application of the colorant (F).

[0350] In steps (4), (5), and (6) of the process, the colorant (F) is applied to the keratin fibers, allowed to act, and then washed out again after a contact time of, for example, 15 seconds to 45 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 30 minutes, and particularly preferably 1 to 15 minutes. The colorant can be washed out either with water alone or with water and the aid of a shampoo.

[0351] The after-treatment agent (N) is preferably applied either directly after application and rinsing of the colorant (F) or before, during, or after the first hair wash. Depending on the user's habits, the hair is usually washed every one to four days. The period between the application of the colorant (F) and the application of the after-treatment agent (N) is therefore preferably a maximum of 96 hours, more preferably a maximum of 72 hours, even more preferably a maximum of 48 hours, even more preferably a maximum of 12 hours, and most preferably a maximum of 3 hours. The best results were obtained when the after-treatment agent (N) was applied for the first time before the colored keratin fibers were washed for the first time.

[0352] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is therefore characterized in that there is a period of maximum 48 hours, preferably maximum 24 hours, more preferably maximum 12 hours, even more preferably maximum 6 hours and most preferably maximum 3 hours between the application of the coloring agent (F) and the application of the aftertreatment agent (N).

[0353] Within the scope of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V), the coloring agent (F) and the aftertreatment agent (N) are applied to the keratin fibers within a period of a maximum of 48 hours, preferably a maximum of 24 hours, more preferably a maximum of 12 hours, even more preferably a maximum of 6 hours and most preferably a maximum of 3 hours.

[0354] After application, the after-treatment agent (N) is allowed to act on the keratin fibers. Typical exposure times can range from 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 2 to 45 minutes, and particularly preferably 5 to 30 minutes.

[0355] During the action of the aftertreatment agent (N), it has proven particularly advantageous to treat the keratin fibers still covered with the aftertreatment agent with a water-containing agent. In this way, a defined amount of water is again brought into contact with the aftertreatment agent. The defined amount of water is preferably applied to the keratin fibers that are still coated with the aftertreatment agent (N). The amount of water applied in this step is preferably at most twice the weight of the water contained in the aftertreatment agent (N) itself. By additionally applying the defined amount of water, post-condensation or post-crosslinking of the organic O-Ce-alkoxysilanes can be initiated. This post-crosslinking ensures further strengthening of the film or coating.

[0356] In a further embodiment, a method is preferred comprising the action of the after-treatment agent (N) on the keratin fibers, wherein during the action a water-containing agent is applied to the keratin fibers still covered with the after-treatment agent (N) and mixed with the after-treatment agent (N).

[0357] However, the application of the water-based agent should not yet result in the after-treatment agent (N) being washed out. This means that the additional amount of water applied to the hair treated with the after-treatment agent (N) should be large enough so that the Ci-Ce alkoxysilanes can come into contact with a sufficient amount of water, but the after-treatment agent (N) is not washed off the hair fibers or flows down them. As the work leading to this invention has shown, this is the case when the weight of the applied water-based agent is at most twice the weight of the applied after-treatment agent (N).

[0358] Within the scope of a further embodiment, a method is preferred comprising the action of the aftertreatment agent (N) on the keratin fibers, wherein, during the action, a water-containing agent is applied to the keratin fibers still covered with the aftertreatment agent (N) in an amount that is at most twice as large as the amount of aftertreatment agent (N) applied to the keratin fibers. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is accordingly characterized in that the amount by weight of water-containing agent that comes into contact with the aftertreatment agent (N) still present on the keratin fibers as a result of the application of the water-containing agent (W) is at most twice as large as the weight of the aftertreatment agent (N) applied.

[0359] The amount of water-based agent and the amount of after-treatment agent (N) are understood here as weight quantities. Therefore, if 50 g of after-treatment agent (N) is applied to the keratin fibers or hair, preferably no more than 100 g of water-based agent is applied to the hair / keratin fibers. Particularly preferably, no more than 50 g of the water-based agent is applied.

[0360] The water-based agent itself preferably contains water as the main ingredient, but may also contain other ingredients such as preservatives and / or thickeners in particular.

[0361] After applying the water-based product and mixing it with the after-treatment product (N), the mixture of (N) and the water-based product can be allowed to act on the keratin fibers for a while. Possible exposure times are 1 to 45 minutes, preferably 2 to 30 minutes, and particularly preferably 5 to 15 minutes. During this exposure time, the keratin fibers or hair can also be tumbled or massaged several times to ensure a truly closed film forms around each keratin fiber.

[0362] After the coloring process, the aftercare product (N) is applied to the keratin fibers and allowed to work. The treatment can be left on for a period of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes.

[0363] After exposure, the aftertreatment agent (N) can be rinsed out in one embodiment. In another embodiment, however, it is also possible not to rinse out the aftertreatment agent (N), but to dry the keratin fibers still coated with the aftertreatment agent (N) – optionally diluted by adding water – without rinsing. Without rinsing out the aftertreatment agent (N), the film formed on the keratin fibers can continue to condense or harden for some time. Since particularly resistant films can be obtained in this way, this embodiment is particularly preferred.

[0364] In another particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized by drying the keratin fibers without prior washing out of the aftertreatment agent (N). During drying, the water and the solvent(s) present in the aftertreatment agent (N) evaporate, and the film formed by the condensation of the C1-C8 alkoxysilanes hardens. Drying can take place either in air or under the influence of heat, for example, with the aid of a heat cap or a hairdryer.

[0365] In a further embodiment, a method for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps in the given order is also very particularly preferred:

[0366] (1) Applying the pretreatment agent (V) to the keratin fibers,

[0367] (2) allowing the pretreatment agent applied in step (1) to act on the keratin fibres for a period of 2 to 45 minutes, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes and particularly preferably from 2 to 20 minutes,

[0368] (3) Rinsing the pretreatment agent (V) with water,

[0369] (4) Applying the colorant (F) to the keratin fibers, and

[0370] (5) allowing the dye applied in step (4) to act on the keratin fibres for a period of 15 seconds to 45 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 30 minutes and particularly preferably from 1 to 15 minutes,

[0371] (6) Rinsing the dye (F) with water,

[0372] (7) Applying the after-treatment agent (N) to the keratin fibres,

[0373] (8) Exposure of the after-treatment agent (N) for a period of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes,

[0374] (9) Drying the keratin fibres still covered with the after-treatment agent (N).

[0375] When drying the keratin fibers covered with the after-treatment agent (N), it may be advantageous to shorten the drying time by heat treatment.

[0376] In a further explicitly particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized by heating the keratin fibers covered with the aftertreatment agent (N) to a temperature of more than 40 °C.

[0377] Heating accelerates the evaporation of any remaining water and / or solvents contained in the post-treatment agent (N), allowing the silane film to form particularly well. Since the post-treatment agent is not washed out before drying, this process is a leave-on post-treatment process.

[0378] Heating or heat treatment refers to bringing the keratin material into contact with a heated device, or applying this heated device to or on the keratin material. Furthermore, the keratin material can also be exposed to warm / hot air for heat treatment. Examples of devices used include a hairdryer, a blow dryer, a thermal cap, a flat iron, a curling iron, or an infrared lamp.

[0379] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the heating to more than 40 °C is carried out by using a hair dryer, a blow dryer, a heat cap, a straightening iron, a curling iron or an infrared lamp.

[0380] Furthermore, it has been found that it is preferred if the treatment temperature during the heat treatment is between 40 °C and 210 °C, preferably from 40 °C to 190 °C, more preferably from 45 °C to 170 °C, even more preferably from 45 °C to 100 °C and most preferably from 50 °C to 80 °C. In other words, it has proven particularly preferred if the heat treatment is carried out using a device that is heated to a temperature of 40 °C to 210 °C, preferably from 40 °C to 190 °C, more preferably from 45 °C to 170 °C, even more preferably from 45 °C to 100 °C and most preferably from 50 °C to 80 °C.

[0381] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by heating the keratin fibers covered with the aftertreatment agent (N) to a temperature of 40 °C to 210 °C, preferably from 40 °C to 190 °C, more preferably from 45 °C to 170 °C, even more preferably from 45 °C to 100 °C and most preferably from 50 °C to 80 °C.

[0382] The duration of the heat treatment can be adapted to the selected temperature range. For example, a heat treatment can be carried out for a duration of 5 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably from 15 seconds to 45 minutes, more preferably from 15 seconds to 30 minutes, and most preferably from 15 seconds to 15 minutes.

[0383] In the course of the method according to the invention, the keratin fibers can be subjected to a heat treatment entirely, but the treatment of partial areas of the keratin fibers can also be included. Complete heat treatment of the keratin fibers is preferred, ie, preferably all keratin fibers to which the post-treatment agent (N) has been applied are treated with heat.

[0384] During heat treatment or heating, the keratin fibers can also be combed or brushed. For example, the keratin fibers or the hair can be treated with a hairdryer, possibly while combing or brushing, which blows warm or hot air onto the fibers. This air is particularly preferably 50 to 80°C. Alternatively, the keratin material or the hair can be held under an infrared lamp, which is particularly preferably set to a temperature of 50 to 80°C. For the purpose of heat treatment, hair can also be pressed between two appropriately temperature-controlled plates of a straightening iron, with the plates being able to move along the fiber at the same time. The plates of the straightening iron can, for example, be set to a temperature of up to 210°C.

[0385] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the heat treatment is carried out by using a hair dryer, a blow dryer, a heat cap, a straightening iron, a curling iron or an infrared lamp.

[0386] In the particularly preferred leave-on process, the aftertreatment agent (N) is applied to the keratin fibers, then the aftertreatment agent (N) is allowed to work. During the process, the aftertreatment agent (N) is evenly distributed over the keratin fibers. Since the aftertreatment agent (N) is no longer rinsed out of the keratin fibers in this embodiment, the exposure time cannot be precisely defined, but in principle lasts until the dried aftertreatment agent is removed from the keratin fibers again (e.g. by washing the hair or mechanical abrasion). The exposure and the heating or drying of the keratin fibers can therefore also overlap in time. According to the invention, the exposure of the liquid aftertreatment agent can, for example, last until the aftertreatment agent is completely dry, which, depending on the temperature, can take, for example, 5 to 60 minutes.

[0387] Preparation of the ready-to-use pretreatment agent by mixing two separately prepared preparations

[0388] As previously described, the pretreatment agent according to the invention is the ready-to-use pretreatment agent (V), which, in its present form, can be applied directly to the keratin fibers or hair. As previously described, the pretreatment agent is characterized by its content of at least one alkalizing agent (V-Alkali) and / or one oxidizing agent (V-Ox), and particularly preferably by its content of a combination of carbamide peroxide (V-Ox1) and at least one persulfate (V-Ox2) from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate.

[0389] In principle, both oxidizing agents from groups (V-Ox1) and (V-Ox2) can be packaged together in one product and made available to the user in this form. However, for reasons of storage stability, it has proven particularly preferable to package the carbamide peroxide (V-Ox1) and the persulfates (V-Ox2) in separate products, so that the user only needs to mix these two products shortly before use to create the ready-to-use pretreatment agent (V).

[0390] A method according to the invention comprising the following steps is therefore particularly preferred:

[0391] (1) Providing a first agent containing carbamide peroxide

[0392] (2) Providing a second agent which contains one or more peroxodisulfates from the group consisting of potassium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate,

[0393] (3) Mixing the first and second agents to produce a ready-to-use pretreatment agent (V),

[0394] (4) Applying the pretreatment agent (V) prepared in step (3) to the keratin fibers,

[0395] (5) the pretreatment agent (V) applied in step (4) acts on the keratin fibres,

[0396] (6) Rinsing the pretreatment agent (V) with water,

[0397] (7) Applying the colorant (F) to the keratin fibers after rinsing out the pretreatment agent (V).

[0398] (8) Exposure of the dye applied in step (7) to the keratin fibres,

[0399] (9) Rinsing the dye (F) with water,

[0400] (10) Applying the after-treatment agent (N) after rinsing out the colorant (F) to the keratin fibers,

[0401] (11) Action of the after-treatment agent (N) on the keratin fibres, and

[0402] (1 1) optionally rinsing out the after-treatment agent (N), wherein the agents (V), (F) and (N) are preferably applied within a time interval of not more than 6, preferably not more than 3 hours.

[0403] If the agents (V), (F) and (N) are applied within a time interval of a maximum of 6, preferably a maximum of 3 hours, this means that after the application of the pre-treatment agent, a maximum of 6 and 3 hours respectively pass until the dyeing and post-treatment agent are applied.

[0404] The first agent, which contains carbamide peroxide (V-Ox1), is particularly preferably a liquid or flowable agent, most preferably a gel, containing the previously described solvents and / or polyalkylene glycols. The second agent, which contains the peroxodisulfate(s) (V-Ox2), is particularly preferably solid or paste-like. The previously described explanations and preferred or particularly preferred embodiments apply to the sequence of process steps. Repeated application of the post-treatment agent (N)

[0405] Significant improvements in washfastness and leveling were also observed when the after-treatment product (N) was repeatedly applied to the colored keratin fibers. Repeated application is conceivable, for example, before, during, or, especially preferably, after each hair wash. The user can wash their hair as usual with shampoo, rinse out the shampoo, then apply or spray the after-treatment product (N) to damp, slightly dried, or dry hair, and then dry the hair treated with the after-treatment product.

[0406] Improvement of wash fastness and equalization capacity

[0407] The post-treatment agents (N) described above improve the washfastness and leveling ability of keratin fibers or hair colored with an oxidative colorant (F).

[0408] The washfastness of an oxidative color shade refers to the color change of the hair strand dyed with this shade after multiple washes. This color change can involve either a shift in the color toward another shade or a fading of the color. Both color changes are equally undesirable for the user. Color shades with good washfastness show little or no color change even after repeated washes.

[0409] For the purposes of the present invention, an improvement in wash fastness means that keratin fibers dyed with the coloring agent (F) have a higher color intensity after a defined number of hair washes when using the pretreatment agent (V) and the aftertreatment agent (N) than without using the two agents (V) and (N).

[0410] The improvement in washfastness can be quantified, for example, through colorimetric measurements (measurement of L, a, and b values) and calculation of the color difference. The smaller the color difference between washed and unwashed hair, the better the washfastness or color retention.

[0411] Leveling power refers to the color loss that can be seen on different sections of colored hair—either immediately after coloring or after coloring and a defined number of washes. With good leveling power, for example, both the roots and the ends of the hair are colored in exactly the same shade, despite their varying degrees of damage, and a color shift from root to tip is not noticeable. Ideally, this uniformity of color is present both immediately after coloring and after one or more washes.

[0412] The leveling ability can be quantified, for example, by colorimetric measurements (measurement of the L, a, b values) of the different strand sections and calculation of the color difference, e.g. the color difference between the color at the roots of the hair and the color at the tips of the hair.

[0413] The smaller the color difference between the damaged and undamaged part of the hair, the better the coloring's ability to level the hair.

[0414] For the purposes of the present invention, an improvement in the leveling ability is understood to mean that keratin fibers with a different degree of damage, such as leveling strands colored with the coloring agent (F), have a smaller color difference between the differently damaged hair sections when using the pre-treatment agent (V) and the post-treatment agent (N) than would be the case without using the two agents (V) and (N).

[0415] Examples

[0416] The following formulations were prepared (all data in wt.% unless otherwise stated):

[0417] 1 . Pretreatment agent (V)

[0418] 2. Dye (F)

[0419] 3. Aftertreatment agents (N)

[0420] Production of the silane blend

[0421] In a 500 ml round-bottom flask, 25 g of ethanol (abs.) and 49.7 g of methyltriethoxysilane were mixed with stirring. This mixture was heated to 50 °C with continued stirring.

[0422] Then, 6.8 g of a 1% solution of sulfuric acid in water was added dropwise over a period of approximately 5 minutes. The temperature of the reaction mixture rose to 62 °C and then decreased to 55 °C after the addition was complete. Stirring was continued for another 20 minutes. Then, 18.6 g of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane were added dropwise over a period of approximately 5 minutes. After the addition was complete, the mixture was stirred for another 45 minutes at 50 °C and then transferred to an airtight glass container.

[0423] The silane blend prepared in this way was incorporated into the following post-treatment agents (N) (all data in wt.% unless otherwise stated):

[0424] 4. Application to strands

[0425] The ready-to-use pretreatment agent (V) was prepared by mixing 2 parts by weight of carbamide peroxide gel (agent (1)) and 1 part by weight of persulfate bleaching powder (agent (2)). The thus prepared ready-to-use pretreatment agent (V) was applied to each strand of hair (Kerling 9 / 0 and Kerling 10 / 0). For this purpose, 4.0 g of pretreatment agent (V) per gram of hair was applied to the strands, massaged in, and left to work at room temperature for 30 minutes. The strands were then rinsed with water.

[0426] Immediately afterward, the dye (F) was applied to the hair strands. 0.4 g of dye was applied per 1 g of hair strand and left to act for 15 minutes at 30°C. The hair strands were then rinsed under running water for 1 minute.

[0427] Immediately afterward, the after-treatment product (N) was applied to the still-damp hair strands (0.4 g of after-treatment product per 1 g of hair strand) and massaged in. The after-treatment product was left on for 5 minutes, then water (0.4 g of water per 1 g of hair strand) was applied to the hair strands. Each strand was carefully massaged again. After a contact time of 5 minutes, each strand was dried at 50°C without rinsing out the after-treatment product.

[0428] For comparison, strands were dyed with the dye (F), but the strands were treated either only with the pre-treatment agent (V) or only with the post-treatment agent (N).

[0429] As a further comparison, a strand was dyed with the dye (F) without any pre-treatment (V) or post-treatment (N).

[0430] After drying, each strand was colorimetrically measured.

[0431] 5. Measurement of Washfastness. Following the treatment described in step 4, each dyed strand was subjected to six manual washes. For each wash, the strand was moistened, then a commercially available shampoo (Schwarzkopf, Schauma 7 Kräuter) was massaged into the strand for 25 seconds (0.25 g of shampoo per gram of hair). The strand was then rinsed with lukewarm tap water for 30 seconds and dried. After six washes, the strands were colorimetrically measured again.

[0432] The dE value used to assess the color difference is calculated from the L*a*b* color values ​​measured on the respective strand as follows: dE = [ (Li - Lo) 2 + (ai - ao) 2 + (bi - bo) 2 ] 1 / 2

[0433] Lo, ao and bo = measurements of the dyed strand

[0434] Li, ai and bi = measurements of the dyed and washed strand

[0435] The larger the dE value, the greater the color difference between the colored hair and the colored and washed hair and the greater the color change (i.e., the worse the washfastness).

[0436] In Example 1, the strand of hair was treated only with the dye (F); this strand shows the worst washfastness after 6 hair washes.

[0437] The strand dyed in Example 2 was treated with the after-treatment agent (N) after dyeing, but was not subjected to any pre-treatment.

[0438] The strand dyed in Example 3 was treated with the pre-treatment agent (V) before dyeing, but not with the post-treatment agent (N).

[0439] The strand of Example 4 was dyed using the process according to the invention and treated with pretreatment agent (V) before dyeing and with posttreatment agent (N) after dyeing. This strand exhibits the very best washfastness on Kerling 9 / 0 hair.

[0440]

[0441] In Example 5, the strand of hair was treated only with the dye (F).

[0442] The strand dyed in Example 6 was treated with the after-treatment agent (N) after dyeing, but was not subjected to any pre-treatment.

[0443] The strand dyed in Example 7 was treated with the pretreatment agent (V) before dyeing, but not with the posttreatment agent (N). On Kerling 10 / 0 hair strands, this comparison strand 7 exhibited the poorest washfastness.

[0444] The strand of Example 8 was dyed using the process according to the invention and treated with pretreatment agent (V) before dyeing and with posttreatment agent (N) after dyeing. This strand exhibits the very best washfastness on Kerling 10 / 0 hair.

[0445] In summary, the washfastness of the dyeings obtained, regardless of the hair type used, could be greatly improved by the successive application of agents (V), (F) and (N) according to the invention.

Claims

Patent claims 1. A process for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps: - application of a pretreatment agent (V) to the keratin fibres, which contains at least one alkalising agent (V-Alkali) and / or at least one oxidising agent (V-Ox), - application of a dye (F) to the keratin fibres containing at least one direct dye (F-DZ), and - Applying a post-treatment agent (N) to the keratin fibers, which contains at least one nitrogen-containing compound selected from the group of organic amino-Ci-C6-alkyl-Ci-C6-alkoxy-silanes (N-silane).

2. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains at least one alkalizing agent (V-alkali) which is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal carbonates and alkaline earth metal carbonates, ammonia, C2-C6 alkanolamines and basic amino acids.

3. Process according to Claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains at least one oxidizing agent (V-Ox) which is selected from the group consisting of carbamide peroxide, hydrogen peroxide, potassium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate.

4. Method according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) - based on the total weight of the pretreatment agent (V) - one or more solvents from the group consisting of glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, poly-Ci-Ce-alkylene glycols, dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, butylene carbonate and glycerol carbonate in a total amount of 3.0 to 80% by weight, preferably 5.0 to 60.0% by weight, more preferably 9.0 to 40.0% by weight and most preferably 12.0 to 25.0% by weight.

5. Process according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) - based on the total weight of the pretreatment agent (V) - 5.0 to 70.0 wt.%, preferably 10.0 to 60.0 wt.%, more preferably 15.0 to 50.0 wt.% and most preferably 20.0 to 40.0 wt.% water.

6. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the colorant (F) contains at least one direct dye (F-DZ) from the group of cationic, anionic and / or non-ionic direct dyes, particularly preferably from the group of cationic direct dyes.

7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) contains one or more amino-Ci-Ce-alkyl-Ci-Ce-alkoxy-silanes (N-silane) selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)-triethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or their hydrolysis and / or condensation products.

8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) contains at least one solvent other than water, which is selected from the group consisting of ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, poly-Ci-Ce-alkylene glycols, dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, butylene carbonate and glycerol carbonate, preferably from the group consisting of ethanol and isopropanol, particularly preferably ethanol.

9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) - based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent (N) - contains one or more solvents other than water in a total amount of 1.0 to 90.0 wt.%, preferably 5.0 to 75 wt.%, more preferably 10.0 to 55 wt.%, even more preferably 15.0 to 45 wt.% and most preferably 15.0 to 25.0 wt.%.

10. Process according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) contains as a fatty component at least one silicone oil of formula (V) and / or (VI), where z is an integer from 0 to 10000, preferably an integer from 0 to 1000, more preferably an integer from 0 to 100, and most preferably an integer from 0 to 10, where p is an integer from 1 to 5, preferably an integer from 1 to 3.

11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) contains at least one fatty component which is liquid at 20 °C and is selected from the group consisting of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and / or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, particularly preferably hexamethyldisiloxane.

12. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N) - based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent (N) - contains one or more fatty components which are liquid at 20 °C in a total amount of 1.0 to 95.0 wt.%, preferably from 10.0 to 90 wt.%, more preferably from 30.0 to 85 wt.%, even more preferably from 40.0 to 80 wt.% and most preferably from 50.0 to 75 wt.%.

13. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that between the application of the pretreatment agent (V) and the application of the colorant (F) there is a period of maximum 48 hours, preferably maximum 24 hours, more preferably maximum 12 hours, even more preferably maximum 6 hours and most preferably maximum 3 hours.

14. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that between the application of the coloring agent (F) and the application of the after-treatment agent (N) a period of maximum 48 hours, preferably maximum 24 hours, more preferably of a maximum of 12 hours, more preferably a maximum of 6 hours and most preferably a maximum of 3 hours.

15. Method according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized by the Drying of the keratin fibers without prior washing out of the after-treatment product (N).

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