Method for preparing single-layer and double-layer integrally-formed warp-knitted fabric

By using a combination of air-passing and full-passing on the warp machine and combining the weaving principle of the Jaka Crate, a single and double-layer integrated warp knitted fabric is achieved, solving the problem that existing fabrics cannot contain both single-layer permeability and double-layer complex jacquards at the same time, and achieving the high wear resistance, soap-washing resistance and sweat friction resistance of the fabric.

WO2025065832A1PCT designated stage expired Publication Date: 2025-04-03FUJIAN JINJIANG HUAYU WEAVING
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Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/CN2023/132255
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-09-27
Filing Date
2023-11-17
Publication Date
2025-04-03

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing warp knitted fabrics cannot contain both single layers of transparent thinness and double layers of complex jacquard on one piece of fabric.

Method used

The preparation method of single and double-layer integrated molding warp knit fabric is adopted. By using a combination of air-passing and full-passing in large areas on the warp machine, combined with the weaving principle of the Jaka comb, the junction position of the single and double-layers is automatically separated to form a single-layer and double-layer fabric coexisting.

Benefits of technology

It realizes transparent, light and double-layer complex jacquard that contains a single layer on one piece of fabric. The produced fabric has good wear resistance, soap washing resistance, sweat friction color fastness, and very good wear resistance and fold resistance.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to the field of warp-knitted fabrics. Provided is a method for preparing a single-layer and double-layer integrally-formed warp-knitted fabric. Monofilaments are subjected to a combination of multiple threading and empty threading over a large range, wherein in the empty threading area, a front jacquard and a rear jacquard are respectively knitted into loops on respective needle beds of a front needle bed and a rear needle bed, and a surface layer formed by the rear needle bed leaves a knitting area and then automatically detaches, so as to form a single-layer effect; and in the monofilament threading area, jacquard guide bars with cationic and polyester yarns can both knit on the surface layer, so as to form a double-color effect on the surface. During warping of monofilaments, in order to minimize or even eliminate the occurrence of inward skewing and outward skewing of the monofilaments, a segmented beam is used as a beam for warping, the monofilaments are wrapped corresponding to threading positions, and no yarns are wrapped in the segmented beam corresponding to empty- threading positions, such that the tension of the warped yarns on the beam is uniform, and the inward skewing and outward skewing of the beam are significantly reduced, thereby realizing one piece of fabric including both a single-layer transparent and lightweight jacquard and a double-layer complex jacquard, and solving the technical problem of it being impossible for a warp-knitted fabric to include both a single-layer transparent and lightweight jacquard and a double-layer complex jacquard on one piece of fabric.
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Description

Preparation method of single-layer and double-layer integrated warp knitted fabric Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the field of warp knitted fabrics, and in particular to a method for preparing single-layer and double-layer integrally formed warp knitted fabrics. Background Art

[0002] Warp knitted footwear products are ideal shoe fabrics due to their controllable thickness, single-layer, double-layer, and triple-layer options, and excellent breathability. With the development of society and the improvement of people's living standards, warp knitted footwear fabrics have achieved comprehensive development. The diversification of people's aesthetics has led to the demand for sports shoes that not only meet basic requirements for warmth and comfort, but also incorporate innovative features such as unique appearance and fashionable elements, thereby increasing the vitality of the industry. As the mainstream shoe fabric, warp knitted shoe fabrics have evolved from early single-layer jacquard structures, double-layer jacquard structures, and combined single and double-layer jacquard structures to the current integrated single and double-layer structures, allowing for a wider variety of styles and color combinations. Currently, warp knitted fabrics cannot simultaneously combine the transparent and lightness of a single layer with the complex jacquard pattern of a double layer in a single piece of fabric. Summary of the Invention

[0003] Therefore, in order to solve the above problems, the present invention proposes a method for preparing a single-layer and double-layer integrated warp knitted fabric, which solves the technical problem that a knitted fabric cannot simultaneously include a single-layer transparent and thin fabric and a double-layer complex jacquard fabric on a single fabric.

[0004] To achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:

[0005] The preparation method of single-layer and double-layer integrally formed warp knitted fabrics includes the following methods:

[0006] A: First raw material;

[0007] B: second raw material;

[0008] C: third raw material;

[0009] D: fourth raw material;

[0010] GB1: 3-2 / 0-1 / / 1100A;

[0011] GB2: 0-1 / 3-2 / / 1100A;

[0012] JB3-1:1-0-1-0 / 1-2-0-1 / / 1100B;

[0013] JB3-2:1-0-1-0 / 1-2-0-1 / / 1100B;

[0014] JB4-1:1-0-1-1 / 1-2-1-1 / / 1100C;

[0015] JB4-2: 1-0-1-1 / 1-2-1-1 / / 1100C;

[0016] GB5:1-0-0-1 / 0-1-1-0 / / 50D,81*,135D,99*,135D,99*,135D,99*,135D,82*,50D;

[0017] GB6: 1-0 / 0-1 / / 1100C;

[0018] Let-off amount:

[0019] GB1: 4.8mm / row;

[0020] GB2: 4.8mm / row;

[0021] JB3-1: 6mm / two large and three small in a row;

[0022] JB3-2: 6mm / two large and three small in a row;

[0023] JB4-1: 4.6mm / row;

[0024] JB4-2: 4.6mm / row;

[0025] GB5: 3.3mm / row;

[0026] GB6: 3.3mm / row.

[0027] Further:

[0028] Among them, A: 0.10 polyester fold-resistant yarn; B: cationic glossy 150D / 72F heavy mesh untwisted; C: polyester DTY150D / 48F light mesh; D: polyester mother yarn 40D / 1F.

[0029] Fold-resistant yarn is used for the ground layer to form a transparent bottom effect, cationic and polyester low-elastic yarn are used for jacquard yarn, forming the jacquard pattern of the surface layer and the ground layer. Monofilament is threaded to form a single and double-layer coexisting fabric with partially separated surface layers.

[0030] The yarns on some warp beams of the warping machine are threaded in large areas without threading, and the number of warp yarn heads is only 40%-60% of that of full threading. The yarn tension is controlled by line density to make the yarn more uniform. In some areas, the yarn guide needles thread the yarn continuously or do not thread the yarn continuously, which causes the warp yarns at different positions to be tilted inward or outward when the warp yarn is output from the disk, and the warp tension requirement is increased. During the weaving process, the warp tension in the threaded and non-threaded areas will deviate, which makes the weaving go smoothly.

[0031] The fabric has a transverse density of 10.6wpc, a longitudinal density of 15cpc, and a gram weight of 586g / m 2 .

[0032] Six combs and eight transverse lines are all involved in the weaving of the fabric.

[0033] The front and back order of the base surface is adopted (that is, the technical front side of the fabric knitted by the rear needle bed is the surface). Through the weaving principle of the jacquard bar, in the single-layer part of the fabric, the jacquard bar JB3 only forms loops on the front needle bed, and the jacquard bar JB4 forms loops on the rear needle bed. The jacquard separation process is adopted at the junction of the single and double layers, so that the front and back pieces of the single-layer part are not connected during the knitting process, and are automatically separated into two parts after knitting; in the double-layer part, the middle layer of polyester mother yarn is looped on both sides, and the front and back layers are not separated. In some areas, the jacquard bar JB3 can form loops on the front needle bed, forming a two-color effect on the surface.

[0034] Different jacquard needle bias signals can be selected for all parts. Different jacquard needle processes have different effects on the fabric.

[0035] JB3 can form loops on both needle beds, and can form loops on this side of the front needle bed. The length of yarn used by each jacquard guide needle is different, so a creel is used to provide the knitting yarn, which is a passive warp feed method. Other combs use an active warp feed method.

[0036] The warp knitting machine selected is E24-needle RDPJ6 / 2 double jacquard warp knitting machine.

[0037] By adopting the above technical solution, the beneficial effects of the present invention are:

[0038] The present invention combines a large range of multiple threading and empty threading of the monofilament. In the empty threading area, the front and rear jacquards are respectively knitted into loops on the respective needle beds of the front and rear needle beds. The surface layer formed by the rear needle bed automatically detaches after leaving the knitting area, forming a single-layer effect; in the monofilament full threading area, the jacquard combs where the cationic and polyester are located can be woven on the surface layer, forming a two-color effect on the surface. In the monofilament warping process, in order to minimize or even eliminate the phenomenon of inward and outward deflection of the monofilament, a segmented warping head is used for warping. The monofilament is warped at the threading position, and the yarn is not warped in the segmented warp head corresponding to the empty threading position. The yarn tension of the warped heads in this way is uniform, and the internal and external beveling of the heads are greatly reduced, so that a single layer of transparent and thin fabric and a double layer of complex jacquard can be included in one piece of fabric. The produced fabric has a wear-resistance, soap-resistance and sweat-resistance color fastness of 4-5, and the fabric has good color fastness, and has very good wear resistance and folding resistance. Furthermore, the warping machine can ensure the consistency of the warp tension on the same warp beam, which can effectively avoid the problem of uneven warp tension in the previous process and provide a stable weaving environment for the subsequent weaving process. Furthermore, the selected model is the RDPJ6 / 2 double jacquard warp knitting machine. Both jacquard bars adopt the back-to-face needle loading method, which makes the jacquard needles more convenient to replace and the machine runs smoothly. The jacquard bars adopt the passive warp feeding method of the yarn frame, and the optional jacquard structure is more diverse. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0039] FIG1 is a schematic diagram of a dyeing process of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0040] The present invention will now be further described with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments.

[0041] Referring to FIG1 , this embodiment provides a method for preparing a single-layer or double-layer integrally formed warp knitted fabric, comprising the following steps:

[0042] (1) Raw material selection design

[0043] The fabric is made of several raw materials: polyester fold-resistant yarn, polyester DTY150D / 72F heavy mesh untwisted yarn, cationic glossy DTY150D / 72f heavy mesh untwisted yarn and polyester mother yarn. The fold-resistant yarn is used for the ground layer to form a transparent bottom effect. Cationic and polyester low-elastic yarns are used for jacquard yarns to form the jacquard small jacquard pattern of the surface layer and the ground layer. The monofilament is threaded to form a single and double-layer coexisting fabric with partially separated surface layers.

[0044] (2) Warping technology selection

[0045] The warping machine uses a GE-212 computerized warping machine. Since the yarns on some warp beams are threaded in large areas, the number of warp ends is only 40%-60% of that of full threading. Linear density is used to control the yarn tension to make the yarn more uniform. In some areas, the yarn guide needles thread the yarn continuously or do not thread the yarn continuously, which causes the warp yarns in different positions to be tilted inward or outward when the warp yarn is output, and the warp tension requirement increases. During the weaving process, the warp tension in the threaded and non-threaded areas will deviate, thus affecting the smooth weaving process. In response to these problems, this model of warping machine was selected. This warping machine can ensure consistent warp tension on the same warp beam, effectively avoiding the problem of uneven warp tension in the previous process, and providing a stable weaving environment for the subsequent weaving process.

[0046] (3) Weaving technology selection

[0047] The warp knitting machine is an E24-needle RDPJ6 / 2 double jacquard warp knitting machine. The fabric has a horizontal density of 10.6wpc, a vertical density of 15cpc, and a gram weight of 586g / m2. 2 . Six combs and eight transverse lines are all involved in the weaving of the fabric. This process adopts the front and back order of the base surface (that is, the front side of the fabric knitted by the rear needle bed is the surface). According to the weaving principle of the jacquard comb, in the single-layer part of the fabric, the jacquard comb JB3 only forms loops on the front needle bed, and the jacquard comb JB4 forms loops on the rear needle bed. The jacquard separation process is adopted at the junction of the single and double layers, so that the front and back pieces of the single-layer part are not connected during the weaving process, and are automatically separated into two parts after weaving; in the double-layer part, the middle layer of polyester mother yarn is looped on both sides, and the front and back layers are not separated. In some areas, the jacquard comb JB3 can form loops on the front needle bed, forming a two-color effect on the surface. Different jacquard needle bias signals can be selected for all parts. Different jacquard needle processes have different effects on the fabric. JB3 can form loops on both needle beds, and can form loops on this side of the front needle bed. The length of yarn used by each jacquard guide needle is different, so a creel is used to provide the knitting yarn, which is a passive warp feed method. Other combs use an active warp feed method.

[0048] The process is as follows:

[0049] A: First raw material;

[0050] B: second raw material;

[0051] C: third raw material;

[0052] D: fourth raw material;

[0053] GB1: 3-2 / 0-1 / / 1100A;

[0054] GB2: 0-1 / 3-2 / / 1100A;

[0055] JB3-1:1-0-1-0 / 1-2-0-1 / / 1100B;

[0056] JB3-2:1-0-1-0 / 1-2-0-1 / / 1100B;

[0057] JB4-1:1-0-1-1 / 1-2-1-1 / / 1100C;

[0058] JB4-2: 1-0-1-1 / 1-2-1-1 / / 1100C;

[0059] GB5:1-0-0-1 / 0-1-1-0 / / 50D,81*,135D,99*,135D,99*,135D,99*,135D,82*,50D;

[0060] GB6: 1-0 / 0-1 / / 1100C;

[0061] Let-off amount:

[0062] GB1: 4.8mm / row;

[0063] GB2: 4.8mm / row;

[0064] JB3-1: 6mm / two large and three small in a row;

[0065] JB3-2: 6mm / two large and three small in a row;

[0066] JB4-1: 4.6mm / row;

[0067] JB4-2: 4.6mm / row;

[0068] GB5: 3.3mm / row;

[0069] GB6: 3.3mm / row.

[0070] (4) Post-finishing process design

[0071] aPre-forming process

[0072] The pre-setting process is one of the most important steps in the finishing stage. The pre-setting machine uses the ST8200HO Taiwan Ligen setting machine. This setting machine uses high-temperature hot air setting technology, which allows hot air to evenly act on both sides of the fabric. When the temperature inside the closed oven of the setting machine exceeds the glass transition temperature of the fabric, the polymers inside the fiber material are reorganized, thereby changing the surface dimensions of the fabric. The grey fabric is fed into the setting machine in the opposite direction of weaving. First, it is stretched or shrunk to the final size by an overfeed roller device and a needle chain stretching device. The fabric is then set in multiple dry heat and sealed oven devices. After cooling, the set fabric is pre-set. The pre-setting temperature is set at 200°C, and the input speed is set at a low speed of 18m / min.

[0073] B Dyeing process

[0074] The fabric is dyed using a high-temperature, high-pressure dyeing method on polyester raw materials. The dyeing machine is a HEA-4-1000 Donggeng dyeing machine. Disperse dyes use a disperse brightener, CPS-D, and cationic black, SD-RL 200%, respectively. Auxiliary agents include 0.5g / L of a high-temperature leveling agent, 1g / L of buffered acid, NX-306, and 2g / L of sodium sulfate. The two dyes and three auxiliary solutions are adjusted to a weakly acidic pH of around 5.0. First, the cationic dye, disperse dye, and auxiliary agents are added at room temperature. The temperature is then increased stepwise, initially at a rate of 1.2°C / min to 110°C. After a 5-minute dwell, the temperature is then increased at a rate of 2°C / min to 120°C for 30 minutes. Finally, the temperature is lowered at a rate of 1.5°C / min to approximately 70°C for drainage, as shown in Figure 1.

[0075] c Stentering and shaping process

[0076] The machines and principles used in stenter setting are basically the same as those used in pre-setting. The most important difference lies in the setting temperature and time. The temperature for stenter setting is set at 170°C and the speed of input fabric is set at 15m / min, that is, the time the grey fabric spends in the setting machine is 1 / 6 longer than that of pre-setting.

[0077] The experimental data are shown in the following table:

[0078] Test Items Test Method Test Results Colour fastness to rubbing with sweat, Grade QB / T 2882-2007 (Method A, artificial sweat rubbing 50 times, white felt, friction head pressure: 9.8N) discoloration 4-5, felt staining 4-5 Colour fastness to rubbing, Grade QB / T 2882-2007 (Method A, dry rubbing 50 times, wet rubbing 50 times, white felt, friction head pressure: 9.8N) dry rubbing: discoloration 4-5, felt staining 4-5; wet rubbing: discoloration 4-5, felt staining 4-5 Colour fastness to washing with soap, Grade QB / T 3921-2008 (60℃, 30min) discoloration 4-5, felt staining 4-5 Wool 4-5, acrylic 4-5, polyester 4-5, nylon 4-5, cotton 4-5, acetate 4-5 Bursting strength, kPaQB / T 7742.1-2005 [The experimental area is 7.3 cm 2 (diameter 30.5mm, bursting time 20S±5S] white part 1.54×10 3 , black part 2.79×10 3 Abrasion resistance QB / T 4545-2013 (Grinding wheel type: CS17; load 500g; number of rotations: 50 rpm) Surface wear resistance level 4, discoloration level 4 Tear strength, NQB / T 2883-2007 (Sample size: 100mm×100mm) Warp: Initial force: 41, Maximum tear force: 123, Median value: 87, Tear type: Normal tear; Weft: Initial force: 41, Maximum tear force: 77, Median value: 60, Tear type: Normal tear Folding resistance QB / T 3903.41-2019 (Dry state, surface facing up, -20℃, 30,000 rpm) Warp direction: Specimen intact and undamaged; Weft direction: Specimen intact and undamaged Folding resistance QB / T 3903.41-2019 (Dry state, surface facing up, room temperature, 60,000 revolutions) Warp direction: The specimen is intact and undamaged; Weft direction: The specimen is intact and undamaged

[0079] As can be seen from the table, the fabric achieved color fastness levels of 4-5 for abrasion, soaping, and sweat resistance, indicating good color fastness. The double-layer bursting strength reached 2.79×103 kPa, the single-layer bursting strength reached 1.54×103 kPa, and the maximum tear force reached 123N for normal tearing, indicating that the fabric's strength indicators met the requirements. Abrasion resistance reached level 4, and folding resistance was intact, indicating that the fabric has excellent wear and folding resistance. All test indicators of the fabric meet the requirements of shoe material standards, and the fabric quality meets the predetermined design requirements of the project. The present invention achieves the effect of single and double layers coexisting in the fabric by using different yarn threading methods to connect the monofilaments in loops on both sides. After the key process technologies such as warping process, warp knitting, pre-setting, dyeing process and stretching and setting are coordinated with each other, the shoe fabric has the properties of comfortable wearing, unique appearance, good single and double layer concave and convex feeling, folding resistance, wear resistance, good air permeability, etc. The fabric is unique and beautiful. The position and proportion of the single and double layers of the single and double layers are arranged in the design stage. Compared with other fabrics of the same type, this fabric does not require the tedious process of cutting and splicing. The one-piece molding technology is also the development direction of shoe fabrics.

[0080] The above raw materials A, B, C, and D may also be made of other raw materials, depending on the specific situation.

[0081] The above-mentioned warping machine can also adopt other types of warping machines, which can be set according to specific circumstances.

[0082] The above-mentioned warp knitting machine can also adopt other types of warp knitting machines, which can be set according to specific circumstances.

[0083] The transverse density, longitudinal density and gram weight of the above-mentioned fabrics may also adopt other values, which can be set according to specific circumstances.

[0084] The number of combs involved in the compilation can also be five, seven or other numbers, and the number of transverse lines involved in the compilation can also be 6, 7 or other numbers, which are set according to the specific situation.

[0085] The present invention may also adopt other dyeing processes, or may not adopt dyeing processes, depending on the specific circumstances.

[0086] The present invention may adopt PLC or other automatic control systems, which are well-known technologies and will not be described in detail here.

[0087] Although the present invention has been particularly shown and described in conjunction with preferred embodiments, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes in form and details may be made to the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined in the appended claims, and all such changes are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for preparing a single-layer and double-layer integrally formed warp knitted fabric, characterized in that: The following methods are included: A: First raw material; B: second raw material; C: third raw material; D: fourth raw material; GB1: 3-2 / 0-1 / / 1100A; GB2: 0-1 / 3-2 / / 1100A; JB3-1:1-0-1-0 / 1-2-0-1 / / 1100B; JB3-2:1-0-1-0 / 1-2-0-1 / / 1100B; JB4-1:1-0-1-1 / 1-2-1-1 / / 1100C; JB4-2: 1-0-1-1 / 1-2-1-1 / / 1100C; GB5:1-0-0-1 / 0-1-1-0 / / 50D,81*,135D,99*,135D,99*,135D,9,99*,135D,82*,50D; GB6: 1-0 / 0-1 / / 1100C; Warp feeding amount: GB1: 4.8mm / row; GB2: 4.8mm / row; JB3-1: 6mm / two large and three small in a row; JB3-2: 6mm / two large and three small in a row; JB4-1: 4.6mm / row; JB4-2: 4.6mm / row; GB5: 3.3mm / row; GB6: 3.3mm / row.

2. The method for preparing the single-layer and double-layer integrally formed warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in, A: 0.10 polyester fold-resistant yarn; B: Cationic glossy 150D / 72F heavy net untwisted; C: Polyester DTY150D / 48F light mesh; D: Polyester filament 40D / 1F.

3. The method for preparing the single-layer and double-layer integrally formed warp knitted fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that: Fold-resistant yarn is used for the ground layer to form a transparent bottom effect. Cationic and polyester low-elastic yarn are used for jacquard yarn to form the jacquard pattern of the surface layer and the ground layer. The monofilament is threaded to form a single-layer and double-layer coexisting fabric with a partial surface layer separated.

4. The method for preparing the single-layer and double-layer integrally formed warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The yarns on some warp beams of the warping machine are empty-threaded in large areas, and the number of warp yarn heads is only 40%-60% of that of full-threaded. The yarn tension is controlled by line density to make the yarn more uniform. The yarn guide needles in some areas thread the yarn continuously or do not thread the yarn continuously, which causes the warp yarns at different positions to be inward or outward skew when the warp yarn is output from the disk head, and the warp tension requirement is increased. During the weaving process, the warp tension in the threaded area and the non-threaded area will deviate, which makes the weaving go smoothly.

5. The method for preparing the single-layer and double-layer integrally formed warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The horizontal density of the fabric is 10.6wpc, the vertical density of the fabric is 15cpc, and the weight is 586g / m 2 .

6. The method for preparing the single-layer and double-layer integrally formed warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: Six combs and eight transverse lines are all involved in the weaving of the fabric.

7. The method for preparing the single-layer and double-layer integrally formed warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The front and back order of the base surface is adopted (that is, the technical front side of the fabric knitted by the rear needle bed is the surface). Through the weaving principle of the jacquard bar, in the single-layer part of the fabric, the jacquard bar JB3 only forms loops on the front needle bed, and the jacquard bar JB4 forms loops on the rear needle bed. The jacquard separation process is adopted at the junction of the single and double layers, so that the front and back pieces of the single-layer part are not connected during the weaving process, and are automatically separated into two parts after weaving; in the double-layer part, the middle layer of polyester mother yarn is looped on both sides, and the front and back layers are not separated. The jacquard bar JB3 in some areas can form loops on the front needle bed, forming a two-color effect on the surface.

8. The method for preparing the single-layer and double-layer integrally formed warp knitted fabric according to claim 7, characterized in that: Different jacquard needle bias signals can be selected for all parts. Different jacquard needle processes have different effects on the fabric.

9. The method for preparing the single-layer and double-layer integrally formed warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: JB3 can form loops on both sides of the needle bed, and can form loops on this side of the front needle bed. The length of yarn used by each jacquard guide needle is different, so a yarn frame is used to provide the weaving yarn, which belongs to the passive warp feeding method. Other combs use active warp feeding.

10. The method for preparing the single-layer and double-layer integrally formed warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The warp knitting machine selected is E24-needle RDPJ6 / 2 double jacquard warp knitting machine.

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