Cosmetic cleansing product comprising dehydroxanthan gum

By incorporating dehydroxanthan gum and Sodium Cocoamphoacetate/Coco betae in cosmetic cleaning products, the challenges of achieving stable viscosity, transparency, and skin comfort are addressed, resulting in effective and consumer-friendly cleaning formulations.

WO2025068245A1PCT designated stage expired Publication Date: 2025-04-03BEIERSDORF AG
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Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/EP2024/076877
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-09-25
Filing Date
2024-09-25
Publication Date
2025-04-03

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic cleaning products face challenges in achieving stable viscosity, transparency, and flow characteristics without using sulfate-containing surfactants, non-biodegradable polymers, or ethoxylated compounds, which are increasingly undesirable due to environmental and consumer concerns.

Method used

The use of dehydroxanthan gum in combination with Sodium Cocoamphoacetate and/or Coco betae, without additional surfactants or ethoxylated compounds, to create a cosmetic cleaning preparation that maintains stability, transparency, and appropriate viscosity.

Benefits of technology

This solution achieves transparent formulations with a viscosity range of 1000 to 5000 MPAs, ensuring stable performance under various conditions, including temperature and UV exposure, while providing a comfortable skin feel and effective cleaning without residue.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

A cosmetic cleansing preparation.
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Description

[0001] COSMETIC CLEANSING PRODUCT WITH DEHYDROXANTHAN GUM

[0002] The present finding concerns mild cleaning products.

[0003] Cosmetic products generally serve not only to make people look beautiful and attractive, but also contribute significantly to increased self-esteem and well-being. Accordingly, a wide variety of cosmetic products are used for the daily cleansing and care of human skin.

[0004] Daily body cleansing with cosmetic cleansing products primarily serves to effectively remove traces of perspiration, oils, accumulated dirt particles, and dead skin cells from the skin. Such products typically contain anionic surfactants, which enable particularly effective cleansing. Furthermore, such cleansing products often contain additional or alternative surfactants selected from the group of non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants.

[0005] Despite the fact that the state of the art already includes a multitude of cleaning products, further challenges remain regarding product properties that even experienced product developers have not been able to address. These challenges usually arise from specific consumer requests and / or specific product specifications.

[0006] Conventionally, various methods for thickening cosmetic cleansing preparations are known in the prior art. Cosmetic cleansing preparations typically have viscosities in the range of 1000 to 6000 mPas.

[0007] One method is so-called salt thickening. This is based on the fact that salts, especially NaCl, in combination with anionic surfactants, especially sulfate-containing surfactants, build viscosity in cleaning preparations. However, sulfate-containing surfactants are increasingly being avoided for sustainability reasons.

[0008] A second thickening method involves using acrylate polymers, which are formed by homo- or copolymerization with acrylic acid, as a viscosity-increasing medium. However, these have been criticized because their biodegradability has not been conclusively clarified.

[0009] Ultimately, the option remains to use polyethylene glycol-containing glyceryl fatty acid esters, such as PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate and PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate, to achieve thickening. However, these ethoxylated compounds are also increasingly criticized, making them less desirable among consumers.

[0010] Should a cleaning formulation be provided which does not require the use of sulfate-containing surfactants or preferably without the general use of anionic surfactants in combination with sodium chloride,

[0011] - of non-biodegradable polymers, in particular acrylate polymers, and

[0012] - of ethoxylated compounds, the specialist is faced with a challenge.

[0013] One possibility for effectively thickening cleaning formulations could therefore be the use of biothickening polymers. Well-known biodegradable polymers are known by the INCI names xanthan gum, gellan gum, carrageenan, and locust bean gum. Preparations containing these polymers are known in the prior art. Examples include DE102019206576 A1, DE102015207621 A1, and WO2018086790 A1.

[0014] However, the use of these polymers often presents significant limitations, either caused by the polymers themselves or by interactions with the further formulation. This is particularly the case when the preparations are free of

[0015] - sulfate-containing surfactants and added sodium chloride,

[0016] - acrylate polymer, and / or ethoxylated compounds.

[0017] It is often found that the use of thickening, biodegradable polymers in cleaning formulations results in increased clouding of the formulations. This usually occurs immediately after production or within 7 days. Consequently, it is currently not possible to provide transparent formulations. A transparent formulation has a transmission of at least 90% at 600 nm, measured using the measurement method disclosed below. Another disadvantage that has often been observed is that the formulations have an insufficient yield point. For example, application in an upside-down tube or bottle is often not possible because large quantities of the formulation immediately flow out through the dispensing opening. This makes metered dispensing by the consumer impossible. Accordingly, formulations with a higher yield point are required.

[0018] Transparent formulations, in particular, are sold in packaging that is transparent to the human eye for optical purposes. Exposure to UV radiation cannot be ruled out. A disadvantage is the observed loss of viscosity in the formulation. The same is often observed when the formulations are exposed to temperatures of at least 40°C. Therefore, it is generally desirable to provide formulations that are more UV- and temperature-stable.

[0019] Furthermore, the use of the aforementioned biodegradable polymers often leads to sensory product disadvantages that consumers notice during use. For example, such formulations often exhibit insufficient spreadability on the skin. It is desirable for a cleansing product to be easy to spread on dry or slightly moistened skin by gently rubbing the palms of the hands, accompanied by a slight foaming of the product, thus achieving an even distribution of the micelles. If the viscosity is too low (< 900 mPas), the product flows too quickly from the palm of the hand; if the viscosity is too high, the gel is pushed back and forth on the skin, combines less well with water, and foams up slowly. A preferred viscosity range is between 1000 and 5000 mPas. The cleansing product should ideally be rinsed off quickly and without leaving any residue.Many biopolymers leave a slippery feeling on the skin during washing, which is perceived as unpleasant. Furthermore, many leave an undesirable, slightly sticky residue on the skin. The desired skin feeling after washing should be clean and cared for; the skin should feel dry, not dull, and not sticky; a slight residue is often perceived as positive. It is undesirable for the skin to feel or look dry.

[0020] A further disadvantage of cleansing formulations containing the aforementioned biodegradable polymers is that the formulations often become unstable if the pH is adjusted to an acidic range (pH 3.5–4.7). Instabilities here include, among other things, phase separation, turbidity, or a decrease in viscosity. Accordingly, instabilities occur particularly in combination with alpha and beta hydroxy acids (fruit acids), such as glycolic acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, which are used as exfoliants to remove dead skin cells. Exfoliants allow for a cosmetic treatment in which superficial layers of the skin are removed over a large area.

[0021] The above description shows that the use of biodegradable polymers can often lead to a variety of significant product disadvantages. The object of the present invention was to eliminate one or more of these product disadvantages.

[0022] The invention relates to a cosmetic cleansing preparation comprising a) dehydroxanthan gum, and b) sodium cocoamphoacetate and / or coco-betaine, characterized in that the preparation contains no further surfactants or further surfactants make up a proportion of less than 4.0% by weight, preferably less than 3.0%.

[0023] If the term preparation is used below, this always refers, unless otherwise stated, to the cleaning preparation according to the invention.

[0024] Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were conducted under "normal conditions." The term "normal conditions" refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa, and a relative humidity of 50%.

[0025] The term “skin” refers exclusively to human skin.

[0026] If weight percentages (wt%) are stated below without reference to a specific composition or mixture, these figures always refer to the total weight of the preparation. If ratios of components / substances / groups of substances are disclosed below, these ratios refer to the weight ratios of the stated components / substances / groups of substances.

[0027] If weight percentage ranges for the components of the preparation are given below, the disclosure of the present application also includes all individual values ​​in steps of 0.1 wt.% within these weight percentage ranges.

[0028] The phrases "according to the invention," "advantageous according to the invention," "advantageous within the meaning of the present invention," etc., always refer within the context of the present disclosure to the preparation according to the invention as well as to the use and method according to the invention. The term "free from" within the meaning of the present disclosure means that the proportion of the substance mentioned does not exceed 0.1% by weight and, in particular, is 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Thus, inadvertent introduction through impurities should not lead to exclusion from the scope of protection.

[0029] Emulsifiers are all substances listed as "emulsifying agents" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010 (ISBN 1-882621-47-6). Surfactants are all substances listed as "surfactants" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010 (ISBN 1-882621-47-6).

[0030] If viscosity values ​​are given in this disclosure, all values ​​refer to a measurement at 25°C in a 150 ml wide-neck bottle (VWR No.: 807-0001) using a Rheomat R 123 from proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i.e. a measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a specified speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the speed of the measuring body and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. The measuring body used is measuring body no. 1 (article no. 200 0191), suitable for a viscosity range up to 10,000 [mPa-s], speed range 62.5 min-1.

[0031] Where information is given in this disclosure regarding an average, this average always refers to arithmetic means.

[0032] Any information given in this disclosure regarding the molecular weight of polymers refers to a measurement by means of light scattering.

[0033] The cleaning preparation according to the invention comprises dehydroxanthan gum. According to the invention, the proportion of dehydroxanthan gum is preferably from 0.1 to 2.5 wt. %, preferably from 0.4 to 2.0 wt. %, and particularly preferably from 0.6 to 1.8 wt. %, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0034] The preparation further comprises sodium cocoamphoacetate and / or coco-betaine. It is preferred if the total content of sodium cocoamphoacetate and / or coco-betaine is from 2 to 15 wt.%, preferably from 3.5 to 13.5 wt.% and particularly preferably from 4.5 to 12.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, sodium cocoamphoacetate is present. In the event that sodium cocoamphoacetate is present, it is preferred that the total proportion is from 2 to 15 wt.%, preferably from 3.5 to 13.5 wt.% and particularly preferably from 4.5 to 12.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation. Within this embodiment, it is further preferred if no coco-betaine is present.

[0035] A preferred embodiment of the invention contains coco-betaine. If coco-betaine is present, the total amount is preferably from 2 to 15 wt.%, preferably from 3.5 to 13.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably from 4.5 to 12.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation. Within this embodiment, it is further preferred if no sodium cocoamphoacetate is present.

[0036] If further surfactants are included, it is preferred if they are selected from the alkyl glucosides decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and coco glucoside. If these alkyl glucosides are included, it is preferred if their proportion is from 0.1 to 3.5 wt.%, in particular from 0.2 to 2.5 wt.%, in particular from 0.2 to 2.1 wt.%, in particular from 0.3 to 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably from 0.4 to 1.2 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0037] Preferred embodiments of the invention are further characterized in that the proportion of further surfactants, if present, amounts to less than 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Preferred embodiments of the invention are further characterized in that the proportion of further surfactants, if present, amounts to less than 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Preferred embodiments of the invention are further characterized in that the proportion of further surfactants, if present, amounts to less than 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Preferred embodiments of the invention are further characterized in that the proportion of further surfactants, if present, amounts to less than 0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0038] It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation of the invention is free from sulfate-containing surfactants, in particular free from sodium laureth sulfate.

[0039] Furthermore, it is advantageous within the meaning of the present invention if the preparation is free of acrylate polymers formed from homo- or copolymerization with acrylic acid. Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the preparations are free of polyethylene glycol-containing glyceryl fatty acid esters, such as PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate or PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate.

[0040] Furthermore, the preparation is preferably free of PEG.

[0041] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if one or more organic acids are included. The organic acids are advantageously selected from glycolic acid, citric acid, and lactic acid. Glycolic acid and / or lactic acid are particularly advantageous as organic acids.

[0042] Advantageously, the proportion of organic acids in the preparation is from 0.1 to 4 wt.%, preferably from 0.3 to 2 wt.%, particularly preferably from 0.4 to 1.5 wt.% and most preferably from 0.5 to 1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0043] Advantageously, the proportion of organic acids selected from glycolic acid, citric acid and lactic acid in the preparation is from 0.1 to 4 wt.%, preferably from 0.3 to 2 wt.%, particularly preferably from 0.4 to 1.5 wt.% and most preferably from 0.5 to 1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0044] Advantageously, the proportion of glycolic acid and / or lactic acid in the preparation is from 0.1 to 4 wt.%, preferably from 0.3 to 2 wt.%, particularly preferably from 0.4 to 1.5 wt.% and most preferably from 0.5 to 1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0045] For the preferred case where glycolic acid and lactic acid are included, it is preferred if the weight ratio of glycolic acid to lactic acid is in the range of 1:0.7 to 1:0.2.

[0046] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation has a pH in the range of 3.5 to 4.7. This is advantageously adjusted by the presence of the above-mentioned organic acids. It has been found, surprisingly for the person skilled in the art, that the formulas are transparent despite the low pH and do not exhibit any precipitation or phase separation. Furthermore, the preparations according to the invention can comprise other ingredients that are typically present in cleaning preparations.

[0047] Accordingly, it is preferred if the preparation comprises glycerin. If glycerin is present, it is preferred if the total proportion of glycerin in the preparation is from 1 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 3 to 9 wt.%, and particularly preferably from 4 to 8 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0048] Furthermore, it is advantageous if sodium benzoate is included for preservative purposes. If sodium benzoate is included, it is preferred if the proportion of sodium benzoate is from 0.1 to 1 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 to 0.8 wt.%, and particularly preferably from 0.3 to 0.6 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0049] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the preparation contains water as a cosmetic carrier. The proportion of water is advantageously between 70 and 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0050] Furthermore, the preparations of the invention are advantageously characterized in that they have a viscosity in the range between 1000 and 5000 mPas, preferably from 2000 to 4500 mPas and in particular from 3000 to 4000 mPas.

[0051] Furthermore, the preparations may contain other additives commonly found in formulations of this type. These include, among others, colorants, other preservatives, particulate ingredients, and / or other active ingredients.

[0052] Examples:

[0053] The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values ​​used in the examples are percentages by weight based on the total weight of the respective preparations.

[0054] In the following two tables, the two examples Ex. 1 and Ex. 2 represent examples according to the invention. Ex. 3 to Ex. 11 are comparative examples not according to the invention.

[0055] If one compares the examples according to the invention and those not according to the invention, it becomes clear that transparent and stable preparations can only be achieved by means of the invention. The use of other surfactants only leads to instabilities in preparations free of PEG, acrylate and sodium laureth sulfate. The observations given in the tables arise after 7 days of production and storage below 40°C. According to the invention, a preparation is considered transparent if it has a transmission of at least 90% at a wavelength of 600 nm. The transmission values ​​are measured under standard conditions using an IIV / VIS spectrometer IIV / VIS Spectrometer Lambda 650 S (PerkinElmer) with a 150 mm integrating sphere in a quartz glass cuvette (Hellma precision cuvettes made of quartz glass Suprasil, type no. 100-QS) against a reference sample with distilled water. The slit width is 5 nm. Such measurements are listed for examples 12 and 13, where examples12 is according to the invention and Example 13 is a comparative example.

[0056]

[0057] Further example formulations according to the invention are as follows:

Claims

Claims 1. Cosmetic cleansing preparation comprising a) dehydroxanthan gum, and b) sodium cocoamphoacetate and / or coco-betaine, characterized in that the preparation contains no further surfactants or further surfactants make up a proportion of less than 4.0% by weight, preferably less than 3.0%.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the proportion of dehydroxanthan gum is from 0.1 to 2.5 wt.%, preferably from 0.4 to 2.0 wt.% and particularly preferably from 0.6 to 1.8 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

3. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of sodium cocoamphoacetate and / or coco-betaine is from 2 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3.5 to 13.5% by weight and particularly preferably from 4.5 to 12.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that sodium cocoamphoacetate is contained, the total proportion of sodium cocoamphoacetate being from 2 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3.5 to 13.5% by weight and particularly preferably from 4.5 to 12.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, characterized in that coco-betaine is contained, the total proportion of coco-betaine being from 2 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3.5 to 13.5% by weight and particularly preferably from 4.5 to 12.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and / or coco glucoside are contained as further surfactants.

7. Preparation according to claim 6, characterized in that the proportion of decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and / or coco glucoside is from 0.1 to 3.5 wt.%, in particular from 0.2 to 2.5 wt.%, in particular from 0.2 to 2.1 wt.%, in particular from 0.3 to 1.5 wt.% and most preferably from 0.4 to 1.2 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

8. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of further surfactants, if present, amounts to less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

9. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free from sulfate-containing surfactants.

10. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free from polyethylene glycol-containing glyceryl fatty acid esters. 11 . Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free from acrylate polymers which are formed from homo- or copolymerization with acrylic acid.

12. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more organic acids are contained.

13. Preparation according to claim 12, characterized in that the organic acids are selected from glycolic acid, citric acid and lactic acid.

14. Preparation according to one of claims 12 or 13, characterized in that the proportion of organic acids in the preparation is from 0.1 to 4 wt.%, preferably from 0.3 to 2 wt.%, particularly preferably from 0.4 to 1.5 wt.% and most preferably from 0.5 to 1.0 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

15. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation has a pH in the range of 3.5 to 4.7.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

  • skin cleansing preparation

    DE102015207621A1

  • Thin cosmetic preparation

    DE102019206576A1

  • Cleaning foam containing hydroxypropyl methylcellulose and xanthan gum

    WO2018086790A1

  • Compositions and articles for make-up removal

    US20200368558A1