Oil-in-water emulsion and use thereof in cosmetics

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular for caring for keratin materials, comprising: - at least one fatty phase, - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid, - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, - at least one glyceryl ester, and - at least linoleic acid.

Description

Oil-in-water emulsion and use thereof in cosmetics

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of caring for keratin materials, in particular of the anti-ageing care and / or the moisturization of keratin materials, in particular of the skin.

[0002] The present invention is aimed at providing a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase, at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one glyceryl ester, and at least linoleic acid.

[0003] It relates in particular to the use of a composition of the invention for caring for and protecting keratin materials such as the skin of the body or of the face, in particular for the anti-ageing care and / or the moisturization of said keratin materials.

[0004] Finally, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0005] Prior art

[0006] The skin is a barrier for protection and for exchange with the environment, which is both strong and fragile; it can, for various reasons, lose its suppleness and its ability to retain water, causing dryness of the skin.

[0007] It is known that thestratum corneumor horny layer, which is the outermost zone of the epidermis, is particularly involved in the moisturization of the skin. Located at the interface with the external environment, its function is in particular to delay the excessive loss of water originating from the deeper layers of the epidermis. Thestratum corneumalso protects against mechanical attack. It also constitutes the first line of defence against UV radiation.

[0008] For obvious reasons, it is important to ensure a sufficient level of skin moisturization in order to preserve its suppleness, softness, tonicity and / or appearance, and to prevent skin dryness.

[0009] It may moreover be necessary to maintain this level of moisturization over time, and especially when the environmental temperature and / or humidity conditions are variable (cold / hot-hot / cold changes in the course of the day, for example).

[0010] In general, a decrease in this level of moisturization can be prevented or treated by acting on thestratum corneumvia known moisturizing active agents such as, for example, glycerol, or via products in which the galenic form makes it possible to slow down the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) such as inverse emulsions containing mineral oils and derivatives (W / O), via the deposition of a continuous fatty phase sufficiently occlusive to maintain the degree of moisturization of thestratum corneum. However, some of these active agents can make the formulas tacky, in particular when they are used in high concentration. As for galenical products of inverse emulsions (W / O) type, they may have an occlusive nature that gives a greasy and tacky finish.

[0011] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products of which the design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing towards meeting the global challenges.

[0012] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus enabling these environmental challenges to be met.

[0013] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of starting materials which are renewable and / or which have a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0014] Still in this context, new emulsifying systems capable of meeting both this environmental requirement and exhibiting appropriate properties as regards sensory feelings and stability are constantly being sought.

[0015] An emulsifying system comprising at least one phospholipid, in particular at least hydrogenated lecithin, satisfies the criterion of environmental friendliness. In particular, it has been reported that this emulsifier of natural origin makes possible the formation of lamellar O / W emulsions offering perfect affinity with the skin, with a velvety, soft and gliding feel.

[0016] Nevertheless, the formulation of compositions for the anti-ageing care and / or the moisturization of the skin, employing such an emulsifying system, can prove to be difficult in terms of stability. This is because it has been possible to observe the release of aqueous exudates in compositions in oil-in-water emulsion form which have been formulated from such an emulsifier. It has also been possible to note that compositions formed with such an emulsifier may have a tendency to change colour over time, and may, for example, exhibit a strong pink colouration, depending on the active agents and compounds present in these compositions.

[0017] Therefore, a cosmetic composition that is stable, especially in terms of structure and colour, combined with improved properties such as easy application, softness, good spreading ability, that does not melt at a high temperature on the face, that has a soft and light feel, that provides an ideal balance between moisturization and oil control, and that makes the skin complexion uniform is sought.

[0018] Disclosure of the invention

[0019] Therefore, in the light of the foregoing, there thus remains a need for novel compositions, notably cosmetic compositions, in particular for caring for and / or treating keratin materials, which exhibit good microscopic robustness and the colour of which does not change over time, while exhibiting properties, especially sensory properties, that are sought after by the consumer, that is to say a feeling of comfort during and after application, an absence of soaping, a gliding and non-tacky deposit, a creamy texture and a softened and light skin finish.

[0020] There is also a need for eco-designed cosmetic compositions with a high percentage of naturalness, biodegradability and renewability without compromise in terms of sensoriality, in the context of the development of compositions for the care of keratin materials and in particular for the anti-ageing care and / or moisturization of the skin.

[0021] In particular, there remains a need to formulate such compositions having a sensoriality adapted to the needs of cosmetic compositions, in particular anti-ageing and / or moisturizing compositions, and exhibiting good stability, in particular as regards the colour of the composition.

[0022] Finally, it is advantageous for such compositions to use, for the most part, starting materials that are renewable and / or have a good index of naturalness and / or are of natural origin, in order to meet in particular the current requirements of consumers, in particular from an environmental point of view.

[0023] The present invention is precisely directed towards meeting these needs.Summary of the invention

[0024] Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular for caring for keratin materials, comprising:

[0025] - at least one fatty phase,

[0026] - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid,

[0027] - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent,

[0028] - at least one glyceryl ester, and

[0029] - at least linoleic acid.

[0030] In fact, the inventors have found, surprisingly, that the formulation of a combination of an emulsifying system comprising at least one phospholipid, in particular at least hydrogenated lecithin, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, in particular chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which are optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid), at least one glyceryl ester, and at least linoleic acid in a composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, advantageously makes it possible to obtain a composition which reconciles both excellent stability, in particular with regard to the colour of the composition over time, and excellent sensory performance qualities.

[0031] In addition, the compositions thus obtained exhibit good rheological properties, in particular in terms of viscosity and / or of texture, and cosmetic properties which are particularly advantageous, especially in terms of reduced soaping effects during application and after application and a very good moisturizing effect.

[0032] In particular, the compositions obtained exhibit a satisfactory appearance and a supple texture, and are easy to apply and to spread. After application, such compositions leave a feeling of freshness, of moisturization, of nutrition, of softness and of comfort on the skin. Moreover, no greasy, oily or tacky effects on application of these compositions are obtained and no sensation of irritation or of discomfort is present.

[0033] Finally, the compositions obtained exhibit a maintenance of the effects obtained from the time of application, in particular throughout the day, during which a sensation of comfort and freshness remains present. The skin also remains hydrated and soft, it breathes and is not choked, or greasy or tacky or shiny, and tightness sensations, dryness, desquamation and roughness are prevented.

[0034] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is more natural while meeting the requirements expected by users in the field of moisturizing compositions. Finally, a composition according to the invention exhibits excellent stability over time and does not undergo any change in its colour over time. A composition according to the invention therefore has the benefit of reassuring the consumer and of maintaining the latter’s confidence in the composition over time in so far as said composition exhibits excellent structural and colour stability (for example by not undergoing colour transformation over time, such as a significant pink colouration).

[0035] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially is free of silicone oil(s).

[0036] A composition according to the invention is in particular employed for caring for keratin materials, and preferably for caring for keratin materials.

[0037] Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying, to said keratin materials, a composition according to the invention.

[0038] Thus, the present application also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention in the cosmetic field, and in particular for caring for and / or protecting the skin of the body or of the face.

[0039] In particular, the present application relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention in the cosmetic field, and in particular for preventing and / or treating symptoms associated with dryness problems on keratin materials, and / or for repairing and reinforcing the skin barrier.

[0040] Thus, the present application relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention in order to combat the signs of skin ageing, in particular in order to moisturize the skin.

[0041] It is understood that the processes and methods defined according to the present invention are non-therapeutic.

[0042] Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will become more clearly apparent on reading the description and the examples which will follow.Detailed description of the inventionComposition

[0043] As stated above, a composition according to the invention can be cosmetic and / or dermatological, and is preferably cosmetic.

[0044] A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with the skin.

[0045] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium which exhibits a pleasant colour, smell and feel and which does not cause unacceptable discomfort, that is to say stinging, tightness or redness, liable to dissuade the user from applying this composition.

[0046] The term “cosmetic” refers to a composition that is compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and skin appendages. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0047] The term “keratinmaterials” in particular means the skin, mucous membranes, fibres, eyelashes and skin appendages.

[0048] The term “the skin” means all the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, the scalp, the neckline, the neck, the arms and forearms, the eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back of the knees, the hands, the wrists and the ankles, or even more preferably the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, the nose, the cheeks and the chin), the neckline and the neck.

[0049] A cosmetic composition according to the invention is provided in the form of a direct or oil-in-water emulsion, namely an emulsion comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a fatty phase, in particular in a content of at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 8% by weight, dispersed in said aqueous phase.

[0050] A composition according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to a person skilled in the art.

[0051] Phospholipid

[0052] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one phospholipid.

[0053] The phospholipid is preferably chosen from:

[0054] - natural phospholipids, in particular egg or soya lecithin, or sphingomyelin,

[0055] - chemically or enzymatically modified phospholipids, in particular hydrogenated lecithin, and

[0056] - synthetic phospholipids, in particular dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine.

[0057] The phospholipid is preferably hydrogenated lecithin.

[0058] Preferably, the phospholipid is present in a mixture with fatty alcohols, such as alcohols having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, and / or with a fatty acid, such as palmitic acid.

[0059] Preferentially, the phospholipid is sold under the INCI name C12-16 Alcohols (and) Palmitic Acid (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin and in particular under the reference Biophilic™ H MB from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics.

[0060] The phospholipid is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount preferably of between 0.01% and 3% by weight of active material, more preferentially between 0.05% and 2% by weight of active material, and better still between 0.1% and 1% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0062] As already mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0063] The hydrophilic gelling agent according to the invention can be synthetic or natural.

[0064] The hydrophilic gelling agent (or thickener) can in particular be chosen from:

[0065] 1) carboxyvinyl polymers

[0066] The carboxyvinyl polymers may or may not be modified.

[0067] They can be salts of polyacrylates. These are in particular crosslinked and neutralized polymers, in non-particulate form.

[0068] The sodium salts are advantageously preferred.

[0069] Mention may in particular be made of polymers bearing the INCI name Sodium Polyacrylate, such as:

[0070] - Cosmedia SP® or crosslinked sodium polyacrylate containing 90% solids and 10% water, Cosmedia SPL® or sodium polyacrylate as an inverse emulsion containing approximately 60% dry active matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by BASF; and

[0071] - partially neutralized crosslinked sodium polyacrylates in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name Luvigel® EM sold by BASF or under the name Salcare AST from CIBA (BASF) (INCI name: Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6 (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil).

[0072] Mention may also be made, in particular, of the polymers bearing the INCI name Sodium Polymethacrylate, for example Darvan® 7-N from Vanderbilt.

[0073] Mention may also be made, among the carboxyvinyl polymers suitable for the invention, of those sold under the following names:

[0074] - Carbopol® (INCI name: Carbomer) from Goodrich;

[0075] - Pemulen™ (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) from Goodrich;

[0076] - Aqupec MG N40R (INCI name: Sodium Carbomer) from Sumitomo Seika;

[0077] - Aculyn™ 88 Polymer (INCI name: Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) from Dow Chemical;

[0078] - Aculyn™ 28 Polymer (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) from Dow Chemical;

[0079] - Aristoflex® Velvet from Clariant (INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11).

[0080] The carboxyvinyl polymers can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount as solids of between 0.1% and 3% by weight, more particularly between 0.1% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] 2) Polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), in particular homopolymers or copolymers, which are crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) monomer, in particular in the form partially or completely neutralized by an inorganic base other than aqueous ammonia, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0082] These AMPS polymers can be completely or virtually completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%.

[0083] These AMPS polymers can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0084] The AMPS polymers suitable for the invention are hydrophilic, that is to say water-soluble or water-dispersible. They can be:

[0085] - either “homopolymers” comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents, such as those defined below;

[0086] - or copolymers obtained from AMPS and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic monomers, for example ethylenically unsaturated monomers, and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents, such as those defined below. When said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, are preferably present in small amounts.

[0087] The term “water-soluble or water-dispersible” is understood to mean polymers which, for example, introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a concentration by weight equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, in particular having a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample of 1 cm in thickness, of at least 60%, preferably of at least 70%.

[0088] The polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), which are optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, are, for example, chosen from:

[0089] a) poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) polymers, in particular the homopolymers, polyAMPSs, which are crosslinked and at least 90% neutralized.

[0090] They are generally characterized in that they comprise, randomly distributed:

[0091] i) from 90% to 99.9% by weight of units of following general formula (1):

[0092] in which X+denotes a cation or a mixture of cations, it being possible for at most 10 mol% of the cations X+to be protons H+; and

[0093] ii) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of crosslinking units originating from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds, the proportions by weight being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.

[0094] This polymer preferably comprises from 98% to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (1) and from 0.2% to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.

[0095] The cation X+represents a cation or a mixture of cations chosen in particular from a proton, an alkali metal cation, a cation equivalent to that of an alkaline earth metal or the ammonium ion. The preferential cation X+is the NH4+cation. More particularly, from 90 mol% to 100 mol% of the cations are NH4+cations and from 0 mol% to 10 mol% are protons (H+).

[0096] The crosslinking monomers having at least two olefinic double bonds are chosen, for example, from dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetraallyloxyethanoyl or other polyfunctional alcohol allyl or vinyl ethers, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, methylenebisacrylamide or divinylbenzene.

[0097] The crosslinking monomers bearing at least two olefinic double bonds are more particularly chosen from those corresponding to the following general formula (2):

[0098] Mention may in particular be made, as polymers of this type, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel™ 800 (INCI name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate (and) Polysorbate 80 (and) Sorbitan Oleate) from Seppic, crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), such as sold under the name Hostacerin® AMPS by Clariant. In particular, mention may be made, as AMPS homopolymers suitable for the invention, of the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin® AMPS (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate).

[0099] b) AMPS copolymers, containing in particular water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.

[0100] The water-soluble comonomers can be ionic or non-ionic.

[0101] Mention may be made, among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, for example, of the following compounds and their salts:

[0102] - (meth)acrylic acid,

[0103] - styrenesulfonic acid,

[0104] - vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid,

[0105] - vinylphosphonic acid,

[0106] - maleic acid,

[0107] - itaconic acid,

[0108] - crotonic acid,

[0109] - the water-soluble vinyl monomers of following formula (3):

[0110] in which:

[0111] - R1is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5or -C3H7;

[0112] - X1is chosen from alkyl oxides of -OR2type in which R2is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonic group (-SO3-) and / or sulfate -SO4-) and / or phosphate (-PO4H2-).

[0113] Mention may be made, among the non-ionic water-soluble comonomers, for example, of:

[0114] - (meth)acrylamide,

[0115] - N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,

[0116] - N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,

[0117] - maleic anhydride,

[0118] - vinylamine,

[0119] - N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group having from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylbutyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,

[0120] - vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH,

[0121] - the water-soluble vinyl monomers of following formula (4):

[0122] in which:

[0123] - R3is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5or -C3H7;

[0124] - X2is chosen from alkyl oxides of -OR4type in which R4is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted with a halogen (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine) atom or a hydroxyl (-OH) or ether group. Mention may be made, for example, of glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol (meth)acrylates.

[0125] Mention may be made, among the hydrophobic comonomers without a fatty chain, for example, of:

[0126] - styrene and derivatives thereof, such as 4-butylstyrene, α-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;

[0127] - vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CH-OCOCH3;

[0128] - vinyl ethers of formula CH2=CHOR in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 6 carbons;

[0129] - acrylonitrile;

[0130] - caprolactone;

[0131] - vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride;

[0132] - silicone derivatives, resulting after polymerization in silicone polymers, such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides;

[0133] - hydrophobic vinyl monomers of following formula (5):

[0134] in which:

[0135] - R4is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5or -C3H7;

[0136] - X3is chosen from alkyl oxides of -OR5type in which R5is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0137] Mention may be made, for example, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.

[0138] The AMPS copolymers can be, in particular:

[0139] i) copolymers of AMPS and of acrylamide, more particularly crosslinked anionic copolymers of AMPS and of acrylamide.

[0140] These copolymers can in particular be crosslinked by a polyolefinically unsaturated compound, such as those chosen from the group constituted of tetraallyloxyethane, allylpentaerythritol, methylenebisacrylamide, allyl sucrose and pentaerythritol. Preferentially, use is made of methylenebisacrylamide, partially or completely neutralized by a neutralizing agent, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia or an amine, such as triethanolamine.

[0141] Preferably, said polyolefinically unsaturated compound is present in the copolymer at a concentration of between 0.06 and 1 mmol per mole of the mixture of monomers.

[0142] The preferred copolymers are obtained by radical copolymerization of 15-85 mol% of acrylamide and of 15-85 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, in particular of 30-70 mol% of acrylamide and of 30-70 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, and better still of 55-70 mol% of acrylamide and of 30-45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.

[0143] Moreover, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid can be generally at least partially neutralized in the form of a salt, for example by sodium hydroxide, by potassium hydroxide or by a low-molecular-weight amine, such as triethanolamine, or mixtures thereof.

[0144] The hydrophilic gelling agent capable of being employed can also be chosen from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.

[0145] A crosslinked copolymer which is particularly preferred in the context of the implementation of the present invention is in particular available under the name Sepigel 305™ sold by Seppic (C.T.F.A. name Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Aquagel 65 or Aquagel 35 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide (and) C9-11 Pareth-6) from Tinci Materials; mention may also be made of the product Simulgel™ 600 (C.T.F.A. name Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) sold by Seppic;

[0146] ii) copolymers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) which are or are not crosslinked, comprising at least in particular one hydrophobic group comprising:

[0147] - from 80 to 99 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) unit of following formula (6):

[0148] in which X is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion; it being understood that when X represents an alkaline-earth metal cation, it shares two positive charges with two SO3groups; and

[0149] - from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferably from 1 mol% to 15 mol% of units of following formula (7):

[0150] in which n and p, independently of one another, denote a number of moles and range from 0 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 20, with the proviso that n + p is less than or equal to 30, preferably less than 25 and better still less than 20; R1denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6alkyl radical (preferably methyl) and R3denotes a linear or branched alkyl group comprising m carbon atoms, with m ranging from 6 to 30 and preferably from 10 to 25 carbon atoms.

[0151] These polymers are preferentially partially or completely neutralized by an inorganic base, such as, for example, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia, or by an organic base, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures thereof.

[0152] When the polymer is crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

[0153] Mention may be made, for example, as crosslinking agents, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allyl esters of phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0154] According to one embodiment, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

[0155] Mention may be made, as polymers derived from AMPS which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of polymers prepared from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) or one of its sodium or ammonium salts with an ester of (meth)acrylic acid and of an oxyethylenated C10to C20alcohol comprising from 6 to 25 oxyethylenated groups.

[0156] According to one embodiment, the polymer derived from AMPS is a copolymer of AMPS and of a C16-C18alkyl methacrylate comprising from 6 to 25 oxyethylenated groups, obtained from methacrylic acid or from a salt of methacrylic acid and from a C16-C18alcohol oxyethylenated by 6 to 25 mol of ethylene oxide. The amphiphilic polymer can also be a copolymer of AMPS and of a C12-C14alkyl methacrylate comprising from 6 to 25 oxyethylenated groups, obtained from methacrylic acid or from a salt of methacrylic acid and from a C12-C14alcohol oxyethylenated by 6 to 25 mol of ethylene oxide. Mention may in particular be made of:

[0157] - the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from 92.65 mol% of AMPS and from 7.35 mol% of a C16-C18alkyl methacrylate comprising 8 oxyethylenated groups (Genapol T-080), such as that sold by Clariant under the name Aristoflex® SNC,

[0158] - the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from 91.5 mol% of AMPS and from 8.5 mol% of a C12-C14alkyl methacrylate comprising 7 oxyethylenated groups (Genapol LA-070), such as that sold by Clariant under the name Aristoflex® LNC, and

[0159] - mixtures thereof.

[0160] Mention may more especially be made, as crosslinked AMPS polymers of this type, of that sold under the name Aristoflex® HMS by Clariant, which is a crosslinked AMPS / ethoxylated (25 EO) stearyl methacrylate copolymer, or that sold under the name Aristoflex® HMB by Clariant, which is a crosslinked AMPS / ethoxylated (25 EO) behenyl methacrylate copolymer. A mixture of these polymers can also be used.

[0161] Mention may also be made, as other polymers derived from AMPS, in particular AMPS copolymers, which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of:

[0162] - copolymers of AMPS and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide, such as those used in commercial products sold by Clariant under the name Aristoflex® AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate / VP Copolymer), Aristoflex® AVS (INCI: Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate / VP Crosspolymer) or Aristoflex® AVL from Clariant (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Ammonium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate / VP Copolymer (and) Trilaureth-4 Phosphate (and) Polyglyceryl-2-Sesquiisostearate), for example neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

[0163] - copolymers of AMPS and of sodium acrylate, such as, for example, the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel™ EG (INCI name: Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 80) by Seppic or under the trade name Sepinov™ EMT 10 by Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer);

[0164] - copolymers of AMPS and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as, for example, the AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel™ NS by Seppic (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer and Squalane and Polysorbate 60) or like the commercial product sold under the name Sepinov™ EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer) by Seppic; and

[0165] - copolymers of AMPS and of biopolymer, such as copolymers of AMPS and of polysaccharide, such as, for example, the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex® Eco T by Clariant (INCI name: Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum / Ammonium AMPS Crosspolymer).

[0166] The AMPS polymers and copolymers can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount as solids of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight, more particularly between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The AMPS polymers have, for example, a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g / mol to 10 000 000 g / mol, in particular from 80 000 g / mol to 8 000 000 g / mol, more particularly from 100 000 g / mol to 7 000 000 g / mol.

[0167] 3) Heterogeneous polyholosides

[0168] The term “heterogeneous polyholoside” is understood to mean, according to the present invention, polymers constituted of the combination of different monosaccharides or of monosaccharides having the same empirical chemical formula but of different geometrical configuration (D and L isomers, for example).

[0169] These polymers differ both from polyheterosides, which are constituted of one or more monosaccharides and of a non-carbohydrate part, and from homogeneous polyholosides, which result from the combination of one and the same monosaccharide.

[0170] Thus, the heterogeneous polyholoside according to the invention is constituted solely of monosaccharides and results from the combination of at least two different monosaccharides.

[0171] The polyholosides according to the invention can be constituted of 2 to 10 monosaccharides, compounds commonly known as oligoholosides, or of more than 10 monosaccharides, compounds commonly known as polyholosides.

[0172] The monosaccharides present in the polyholoside according to the invention can be chosen from all the envisageable monosaccharides, of natural or synthetic origin, and in particular such as:

[0173] i. aldoses such as:

[0174] - pentoses: ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiose, for example,

[0175] - hexoses: glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose, for example,

[0176] ii. ketoses, such as fructose,

[0177] iii. deoxymonosaccharides, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose,

[0178] iv. monosaccharide derivatives, such as uronic acids, like mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, galacturonic acid or glycuronic acid, or also itols, like mannitol or sorbitol.

[0179] The polyholoside according to the invention can be branched or linear. It can also be substituted, for example by fatty chains, in particular comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0180] Moreover, the polyholoside according to the invention can be an alginate (poly mannuronate and guluronate), such as a sodium alginate, a propylene glycol alginate, a calcium alginate or a glyceryl alginate.

[0181] However, the heterogeneous polyholoside preferably comprises at least one fucose unit, which can be present in an amount of 10-90% by weight, preferably 15-35% by weight, relative to the weight of polyholoside solids.

[0182] In particular, the polyholoside according to the invention can comprise fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, and, for example, can comprise a linear sequence of α-L-fucose, of α-D-galactose and of galacturonic acid. In this case, it preferably exhibits a viscosity of 800-1200 mPa.s (Brookfield LV31 viscosity, 12 revolutions / min, at 30°C) when it is dissolved in water at a concentration of approximately 1% by weight. Such a polyholoside is in particular available in the form of a 1% solution in water from Solabia under the trade name Fucogel 1000 PP® (INCI name: Biosaccharide Gum-1) or in the form of a 1.1% solution in water from Solabia under the trade name Fucocert (INCI name: Biosaccharide Gum-1 (and) Sodium Levulinate (and) Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Sodium Anisate).

[0183] The polyholosides according to the invention are preferably introduced into the composition in the form of an aqueous solution which can comprise from 0.1% to 5% by weight of polyholoside.

[0184] The polyholosides can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount as solids ranging more particularly from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 2%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0185] 4) Glyceryl acrylate polymers

[0186] These glyceryl acrylate polymers are chosen in particular from copolymers of glyceryl acrylate and of acrylic acid. Such copolymers are sold in particular under the names Lubrajel® MS, Lubrajel® CG, Lubrajel® DV, Lubrajel® NP, Lubrajel® Oil, Lubrajel® Oil BG, Lubrajel® PF, Lubrajel® TW and Lubrajel® WA by Guardian Laboratories or Ashland. Preferably, Lubrajel® MS is used.

[0187] The glyceryl acrylate polymers can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount as solids ranging more particularly from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 2%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] 5) Polysaccharides,in particular polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, polysaccharides isolated from algae and polysaccharides from higher plants.

[0189] The polysaccharides according to the invention can be chosen from:

[0190] - algal extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans, agar-agar and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made, as examples of carrageenans, of kappa-carrageenan, and in particular of the compounds sold under the names Satiagum UTC30® and Satiagum UTC10® from Cargill; mention may be made, as alginates, of sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by ISP, under the name Sobalg PH 460 by Danisco or under the name Flavikafine™ S by Nisshinbo Chemical;

[0191] - gums, such as xanthan gums, guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gums arabic, konjac gums, mannan gums, gums tragacanth, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, such as scleroglucan or xanthan gums; mention may be made, as examples, of the guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP 105® by Solvay; the konjac mannan gum® (1% glucomannan) sold by GfN; the diutan gum Kelco-Care™ sold by Lubrizol (INCI name: Sphingomonas Ferment Extract); the gum Solagum™ TARA 38553F sold by Seppic (INCI name: Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum); the gellan gum Kelcogel® CG LA sold by CP Kelco (INCI name: Gellan Gum);

[0192] - modified or unmodified starches, such as those resulting, for example, from cereals, such as wheat, maize or rice, from vegetables, such as yellow split peas, from tubers, such as potatoes or cassava, tapioca starches; dextrins, such as maize dextrins; mention may in particular be made, as examples, of the rice starch Remy DR I® (INCI name: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) sold by Remy; the maize starch B® sold by Roquette (INCI name: Zea Mays (Corn) Starch); the modified maize starch Dry-Flo® AF sold by AkzoNobel (Nouryon) (INCI name: Corn Starch Modified); the potato starch Stärkina™ Natural sold by Agrana Stärke (INCI name: Solanum Tuberosum Starch); the potato starch modified by 2-chloroethyl aminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide sold under the name Structure Solanace® by Nouryon; the native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca Pure® by Nouryon; the starch StarDesign™ Power sold by Cargill (INCI name: Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate); the dextrin extracted from maize under the name Index® from National Starch;

[0193] - pectic acids and pectins, such as the pectin sold under the name GENU pHresh™ by CP Kelco (INCI name: Pectin);

[0194] - celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; mention may in particular be made of methyl celluloses, hydroxyalkyl celluloses, ethylhydroxyethyl celluloses or carboxymethyl celluloses. Mention may be made, as examples, of cetyl hydroxyethyl celluloses under the names Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Ashland; methyl hydroxyethyl celluloses under the names Tylose® MH 300 and Tylose® MH 1000 from Sigma-Aldrich (INCI: Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose); celluloses and cellulose gums under the name Betafib ETD from DKSH (INCI name: Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum); cellulose gums and microcrystalline celluloses under the names Natpure® Cellgum Plus from Sensient or Avicel® PC 611 from DuPont (INCI: Microcrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum);

[0195] - fructans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, mucopolysaccharides (glycosaminoglycans), such as chondroitin sulfates;

[0196] - and mixtures thereof.

[0197] The polysaccharides can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount as solids of between 0.01% and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.05% and 1% by weight and more particularly still between 0.05% and 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0198] Use is preferably made of the polysaccharides chosen from gums, such as xanthan gum, and a carrageenan. Preferably, use is made of the polysaccharides chosen from xanthan gum and a carrageenan.

[0199] Xanthan gums have in particular a molecular weight of between 1 000 000 g / mol and 50 000 000 g / mol and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% of xanthan gum (measured at 25°C on a Brookfield viscometer of LVT type at 60 revolutions per minute).

[0200] The xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane™ by Cargill Texturizing, under the name Novaxan™ by ADM and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by CP Kelco.

[0201] The composition according to the invention can comprise a mixture of the various hydrophilic gelling agents mentioned above.

[0202] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention can comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from:

[0203] - carboxyvinyl polymers;

[0204] - polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which are optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, in particular chosen from (a) poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) polymers, more particularly the homopolymers, polyAMPSs, which are crosslinked and at least 90% neutralized, and (b) AMPS copolymers, more particularly chosen from (i) copolymers of AMPS and of acrylamide, for example crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, (ii) copolymers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid which are or are not crosslinked, comprising at least one hydrophobic group, (iii) copolymers of AMPS and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide, (iv) copolymers of AMPS and of sodium acrylate, (v) copolymers of AMPS and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, and (vi) copolymers of AMPS and of biopolymer;

[0205] - heterogeneous polyholosides;

[0206] - glyceryl acrylate polymers;

[0207] - polysaccharides; and

[0208] - mixtures thereof.

[0209] According to another particular embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, such as the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, sold in particular by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin® AMPS (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate).

[0210] Said hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid can be present in a content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight, more particularly between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0211] According to yet another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, in particular a crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, and at least one additional gelling agent, in particular chosen from polysaccharides, in particular as are described above, more particularly xanthan gum or a carrageenan.

[0212] In particular, it has been observed that, in the presence of xanthan gum, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention can be refined. In other words, the microscopic appearance of a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention comprising xanthan gum is advantageously finer, in comparison with a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention not comprising xanthan gum.

[0213] Said additional gelling agent can be present in a content of between 0.01% and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.05% and 1% by weight and more particularly still between 0.05% and 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0214] Glyceryl esters

[0215] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one glyceryl ester.

[0216] In one embodiment, said at least one glyceryl ester (or (poly)glyceryl ester) may be chosen from glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate lactate, or mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, said at least one glyceryl ester is glyceryl stearate citrate.

[0217] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least glyceryl stearate citrate.

[0218] The amount of glyceryl ester, and preferably of glyceryl stearate citrate, may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0219] Linoleic acid

[0220] A composition according to the invention also comprises at least linoleic acid.

[0221] The amount of linoleic acid may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0222] In a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least linoleic acid and also at least one other fatty acid.

[0223] The term “fatty acid”, as used here, means a carboxylic acid with a long aliphatic carbon chain. In a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid chosen from fatty acids having at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably 6 carbon atoms and more preferably 8 carbon atoms. Said at least one fatty acid is preferably chosen from fatty acids comprising up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably up to 22 carbon atoms. In a preferred embodiment, said at least one fatty acid may be chosen from C4-C26fatty acids,preferably from C6-C24fatty acids, and more preferably from C8-C22fatty acids. The fatty acid may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids. The fatty acid may therefore be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C4-C26, preferably C6-C24, and more preferably C8-C22fatty acids.

[0224] In a particular embodiment, one or more linear or branched monounsaturated fatty acids may be used as linear or branched unsaturated fatty acids. The linear or branched, unsaturated fatty acids may result from at least one carbon-carbon double bond or one carbon-carbon triple bond.

[0225] The saturated fatty acids for use in a composition according to the invention may comprise, for example, caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), pentadecanoic acid (C15), palmitic acid (C16), heptadecanoic acid (C17), stearic acid (C18), isostearic acid (C18), nonadecanoic acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22), and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0226] The unsaturated fatty acids for use in a composition according to the invention may comprise, for example, myristoleic acid (C14), palmitoleic acid (C16), oleic acid (C18), linoleic acid (C18), linolenic acid (C18), elaidic acid (C18), arachidonic acid (C20), eicosenoic acid (C20), erucic acid (C22), and nervonic acid (C24).

[0227] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid chosen from unsaturated fatty acids, and preferably unsaturated C8-C22fatty acids, and more preferably unsaturated C8-C22fatty acids with one, two or three carbon-carbon double bonds. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid chosen from the group constituted of linolenic acid, oleic acid, and a mixture thereof. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid chosen from saturated fatty acids, and preferably saturated C8-C22fatty acids. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid chosen from the group constituted of palmitic acid, stearic acid, and a mixture thereof.

[0228] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid chosen from saturated fatty acids, and preferably saturated C8-C22fatty acids,and at least one fatty acid chosen from unsaturated fatty acids, and preferably unsaturated C8-C22fatty acids. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid chosen from the group constituted of palmitic acid, stearic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid and a mixture thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least linoleic acid and at least linolenic acid. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least the mixture constituted of palmitic acid, stearic acid, linolenic acid and oleic acid.

[0229] In a particular embodiment, a mixture of fatty acids for use in a composition according to the invention and comprising at least linoleic acid and linolenic acid is called "vitamin F". In a particular embodiment, the term "vitamin F" is understood to mean a mixture of a plurality of fatty acids including at least linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and which may include other saturated or unsaturated fatty acids as described above, and preferably chosen from oleic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid.

[0230] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the mixture of fatty acids sold by Stéarinerie Dubois under the trade name "DUB Omega 8" (INCI name: Linoleic Acid (and) Oleic Acid (and) Palmitic Acid (and) Linolenic Acid).

[0231] When the composition according to the present invention contains linolenic acid, the amount of linolenic acid may range from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight and better still from 0.01% to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] Aqueous phase

[0233] As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one physiologically acceptable aqueous phase. The term “physiologically acceptable” is understood to mean a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0234] The composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The aqueous phase is the continuous phase.

[0235] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally one or more polyol(s). According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase contains at least one polyol.

[0236] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase is present in a content of between 65% and 95% by weight, preferably between 70% and 92% by weight and more preferentially between 74% and 82% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0237] Polyols

[0238] For the purposes of the invention, the term “polyol” means:

[0239] - a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising at least two hydroxyl functions; or

[0240] - a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced with an oxygen atom and which comprises at least two hydroxyl functions, for instance polyethylene glycols (PEGs) containing from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units.

[0241] Preferably, the polyol(s) bear a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain.

[0242] Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12 and better still from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0243] The polyol(s) may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol and panthenol.

[0244] Among these polyols, glycerol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, and mixtures thereof, are preferentially chosen.

[0245] According to one embodiment, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, and in particular are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol, and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially glycerol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0246] According to a particular embodiment, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of greater than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight and even more preferentially greater than or equal to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0247] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the amount of polyols may range, for example, from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 18% by weight, better still from 5% to 16% by weight, better still from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0248] Fatty phase

[0249] As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase. Said fatty phase can contain at least one cosmetic oil. It can additionally contain at least one other fatty substance.

[0250] The term “oil” is understood to mean a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound which is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105Pa).

[0251] The term “immiscible” is understood to mean that the mixing of the same amount of water and of oil, after stirring, does not result in a stable solution comprising only a single phase, under the abovementioned temperature and pressure conditions. Observation is carried out by eye or by means of a phase-contrast microscope, if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after sufficient stirring with a Rayneri blender to produce a vortex within the mixture (by way of indication, from 200 to 1000 rev / min), the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed flask, for 24 hours at ambient temperature before observation.

[0252] Mention may be made, as oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, for example, of:

[0253] - hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or also, for example, maize oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, or shea butter oil;

[0254] - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulae R1COOR2and R1OR2in which R1represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R2represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate (which is a mixture of esters of a C16and C18alkyl with isononanoic acid), isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or triisocetyl citrate; fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate;

[0255] - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, plant or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile paraffin oils, and derivatives thereof, alkanes comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, such as in particular C15-19alkanes, such as those sold by Seppic under the name of Emogreen L19, hydrocarbon oils having a branched chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and mixtures thereof, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, polyisobutenes, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as, for example, the Parleam® products sold by Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold by Amoco, Viseal 20000 sold by Synteal, Rewopal PIB 1000 sold by Witco or also Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation. Mention may be made, among the preferred linear or branched hydrocarbons of synthetic origin, of squalane, which is an oil resulting from the hydrogenation of squalene; or

[0256] - mixtures thereof.

[0257] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, plant or synthetic origin, preferably chosen from alkanes comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, such as in particular C15-19alkanes.

[0258] The amount of oil in the composition can range, for example, from 0.1% to 15%, preferably from 0.5% to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0259] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially devoid of silicone. The term “silicone” is understood in particular to mean silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones), such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes, (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates or also polymethylphenylsiloxanes.

[0260] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises less than 2% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially is free of silicone oil(s).

[0261] According to one embodiment, the fatty phase is present in a content of between 5% and 35% by weight, in particular between 8% and 30% by weight and even more particularly between 10% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0262] Additives

[0263] A composition according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one additive, in particular chosen from the additives detailed below.

[0264] Of course, the additive(s) optionally present in a composition according to the invention are chosen so as not to detrimentally affect the properties of the composition, in particular in terms of stability, but also in terms of sensory properties.

[0265] Preferably, the additives suitable for the present invention are natural or of natural origin.

[0266] Active agents

[0267] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.

[0268] Mention may be made, as cosmetic active agents, for example, of moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, humectants, anti-ageing agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, antibacterial agents, vitamins and derivatives thereof, antioxidizing compounds, sunscreens and mixtures thereof.

[0269] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one moisturizing active agent.

[0270] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one moisturizing active agent.

[0271] Cosmetic composition

[0272] The composition used according to the invention may be in any presentation form normally used in the cosmetics field.

[0273] It can be more or less fluid and can have the appearance of a white or coloured cream, an ointment, or a milk.

[0274] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended for application on the skin. It may be the skin of the face and / or of the body, in particular of the face and / or neck and / or hands.

[0275] The composition according to the invention may comprise any constituent usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0276] Preferably, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed off after application.

[0277] Uses and processes

[0278] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for or treating a keratin material, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined in the present invention to said keratin materials.

[0279] According to yet another of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for caring for and / or protecting the skin of the body or of the face.

[0280] According to yet another of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for preventing and / or treating symptoms associated with dryness problems on keratin materials, and / or for repairing and reinforcing the skin barrier.

[0281] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0282] The cosmetic use or process of the invention is performed by topically administering a composition according to the invention.

[0283] Topical administration is constituted of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques for the use of these compositions.

[0284] According to an embodiment variant, the composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin that have been previously cleansed using a washing solution.

[0285] Throughout the description, including the claims, the terms “between ... and ...”, and “ranging from ... to ...” should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.

[0286] The examples that follow illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope thereof.

[0287] In the examples, the amounts of the ingredients of the compositions are “expressed as % of starting material”, more specifically as % by weight of starting material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0288] In the examples, the temperature is ambient temperature (20°C) and is expressed in degrees Celsius, unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.Examples

[0289] MATERIALS AND METHODS

[0290] Measurement of the stability

[0291] The stability of the compositions was evaluated according to the following protocol:

[0292] 1) The following first checks are carried out on a test composition a minimum of 16 hours after production:

[0293] - organoleptic checks (appearance, colour, smell);

[0294] - a pH measurement (at 25°C): measurement taken using a pH meter;

[0295] - a viscosity measurement (at 25°C): measurement taken using a viscometer, for example Rheomat RM 100 Plus from Lamy Rheology (equipped with a thermostatic bath), marking of the values at 30 seconds and 10 minutes;

[0296] - centrifugation carried out for 1 hour at 900 g, followed by verification of the absence of any sign of destabilization (such as salting out, sedimentation, creaming, and the like); and

[0297] - microscopic observation of a withdrawn sample of the composition crushed between a slide and a cover glass in non-polarized light and in polarized light, with a magnification of x100 (times 100), the characterization of the observation being carried out in particular by the evaluation of the fineness of the emulsion, the mesh of the centre, the uniformity of the emulsion, the edges and the anisotropy or isotropy.

[0298] 2) The test composition is subsequently stored for 2 months at different temperatures, in particular at 4°C, at ambient temperature, noted as AT, at 45°C and at 55°C. The temperature can be regulated, for example using an oven, in particular for a temperature equal to 45°C or 55°C, for example of Bio brand concept of Firlabo, or using a refrigerator, in particular for a temperature equal to 4°C.

[0299] 3) Checks are carried out after storage for 1 month and 2 months under the conditions described above. In particular, the checks carried out are as follows:

[0300] - the macroscopic appearance: checking of the visual appearance and the texture, including the consistency, and confirmation of the absence of any sign of instability, for example a setting or a softening, the appearance of grains, a salting out, a creaming, a coalescence, the formation of a film, the display of mottling, of exudate;

[0301] - the colour: evaluation of the potential change in colour of the samples in comparison with the 4°C sample, referred to as “control” sample;

[0302] - the smell: evaluation of the potential change in smell of the samples in comparison with the 4°C sample, referred to as “control” sample;

[0303] - the microscopic appearance: evaluation of the potential change in the microscopic appearance in non-polarized light and polarized light (magnification x100);

[0304] - the pH, only for the samples at 2 months at AT and at 2 months at 45°C; and

[0305] - the viscosity, only for the samples only at 2 months at AT and at 2 months at 45°C.

[0306] The closer the checks on the composition after storage for 1 month and / or 2 months are to the checks carried out at a time of greater than 16 hours from manufacture, the more the composition can be regarded as remaining stable. In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, without salting out or phase separation, with an acceptable change in colour, smell, viscosity, pH and microscopic appearance, then the composition is regarded as being stable.

[0307] Protocol for preparation of the compositions

[0308] The composition F1 according to the invention and the comparative composition C1 of Table 1 below are prepared by the following protocol:

[0309] The ingredients of phase A are mixed, with gentle stirring, and the mixture is heated to 65-70°C;

[0310] The ingredients of phase B (at about 20-30°C) are added to phase A and phase B is emulsified in phase A for 5 minutes; then dilution is carried out with water (at about 20-30°C) while continuing to emulsify for 5 minutes.

[0311] The mixture is cooled with moderate stirring;

[0312] Phase C is then added at a temperature <30°C, and the ingredients are mixed with vigorous stirring before allowing the resulting mixture to cool with gentle stirring.

[0313] Example 1

[0314] The compositions F1 according to the invention and C1 (outside the invention) are obtained according to the preparation protocol described above.

[0315] Results:

[0316] During the evaluation of the stability and colour of the compositions F1 and C1, a more marked difference in colour change between the two compositions is observed after 2 months at 45°C or even after 7 days at 55°C. In particular, after 2 months at 45°C, the composition F1 comprising glyceryl stearate citrate does not undergo any colour change, compared to the composition C1 devoid of glyceryl stearate citrate. The composition C1 takes on a strong rosy appearance, and cannot therefore be considered to be stable over time.

[0317] Conclusion: a composition additionally comprising glyceryl stearate citrate exhibits a limited or non-existent colour change after 2 months at 45°C and corresponds to a stable emulsion, in comparison with a composition devoid of this compound.

[0318] Example 2 – Consumer tests

[0319] The composition F1 was tested on a different panel of consumers, such as women aged 25 to 40 and 41 to 75. The results obtained show that the composition according to the invention exhibits the following advantages:

[0320] - a satisfactory appearance, a fluid texture, easy to apply and spread;

[0321] - after application, the composition leaves a feeling of freshness, moisturization, nutrition, softness and comfort; and

[0322] - after application and throughout the day, a feeling of comfort and freshness remains present, the skin remains hydrated and soft, the skin breathes and is not choked, greasy or tacky, and sensations of tightness, dryness, desquamation and roughness are avoided.

Claims

Composition, in particular cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular for caring for keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises:- at least one fatty phase,- at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid,- at least one hydrophilic gelling agent,- at least one glyceryl ester, and- at least linoleic acid.Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the phospholipid is chosen from:- natural phospholipids, in particular egg or soya lecithin, or sphingomyelin,- chemically or enzymatically modified phospholipids, in particular hydrogenated lecithin, and- synthetic phospholipids, in particular dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine,especially hydrogenated lecithin.Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the phospholipid is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the phospholipid is present in a mixture with fatty alcohols, such as alcohols having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, and / or with a fatty acid, such as palmitic acid.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from:- carboxyvinyl polymers;- polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which are optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, in particular chosen from (a) poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) polymers, more particularly the homopolymers, polyAMPSs, which are crosslinked and at least 90% neutralized, and (b) AMPS copolymers, more particularly chosen from (i) copolymers of AMPS and of acrylamide, for example crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, (ii) copolymers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid which are or are not crosslinked, comprising at least one hydrophobic group, (iii) copolymers of AMPS and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide, (iv) copolymers of AMPS and of sodium acrylate, (v) copolymers of AMPS and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, and (vi) copolymers of AMPS and of biopolymer;- heterogeneous polyholosides;- glyceryl acrylate polymers;- polysaccharides; and- mixtures thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, such as the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which can be present in a content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight, more particularly between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, in particular a crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, and at least one additional gelling agent chosen from polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum or a carrageenan, said additional gelling agent being more particularly still present in a content of between 0.01% and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.05% and 1% by weight and more particularly still between 0.05% and 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase is present in a content of between 5% and 35% by weight, preferably between 8% and 30% by weight and even more particularly between 10% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially being free of silicone oil(s).Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, also comprising at least one fatty acid chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C4-C26, preferably C6-C24, and more preferably C8-C22fatty acids.Composition according to any preceding claim, in which the amount of linoleic acid ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glyceryl ester (or (poly)glyceryl ester) may be chosen from glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate lactate, or mixtures thereof, and is preferably glyceryl stearate citrate.Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of glyceryl ester ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 65% to 95% by weight of aqueous phase, preferably from 70% to 92% by weight, and more preferentially from 72% to 82% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.Non-therapeutic, cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, to said keratin materials.Use of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 14, in the non-therapeutic, cosmetic field, and in particular for caring for the skin of the body or of the face.Use of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 14, in the non-therapeutic, cosmetic field, and in particular for preventing and / or treating symptoms associated with dryness problems on keratin materials, and / or for repairing and reinforcing the skin barrier.

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