Composition for caring for and / or making up keratin material
The composition, featuring plant-derived butter and acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester, addresses the issue of insufficient skin softness and discomfort in existing skincare products by improving skin feel and reducing stickiness and squeakiness.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/CN2023/126525
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-10-25
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-01
AI Technical Summary
Current skincare products often fail to provide sufficient softness and can cause uncomfortable stickiness and squeakiness sensations on the skin.
A composition comprising at least one plant-derived butter with a melting point ranging from 25℃ to 50℃ and at least one acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester, which is applied to the skin to improve softness and reduce stickiness and squeakiness.
The composition effectively enhances skin softness while minimizing uncomfortable stickiness and squeakiness sensations, providing a more pleasant sensory experience.
Smart Images

Figure PCTCN2023126525-FTAPPB-I100001 
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Figure PCTCN2023126525-FTAPPB-I100003
Abstract
Description
COMPOSITION FOR CARING FOR AND / OR MAKING UP KERATIN MATERIALTECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin material, and especially relates to a skincare composition.
[0002] BACKGROUD ART
[0003] There are a variety of skin conditions that benefit from skin care compositions that may be applied and left on the skin. These conditions include many unpleasant sensations e.g., dryness and tightness, especially that the skin is not soft enough.
[0004] Currently, the artisans are committed to solving the above problems and try to provide benefits to skins of the users. It is always the intention of the manufacturer to provide a product with functional and sensorial properties which appeal to the users. The products on the market available for application to the skin have excellent properties and, in general, their efficacy is obtained while also providing the user with comfortable and pleasant sensory experiences. Many of the ingredients usually associated with a good skin feel are formulated into the products. However, the current products often do not provide enough softness sensation, and / or provide uncomfortable stickiness and / or squeakiness sensations.
[0005] Therefore, there is a need for a cosmetic product, e.g., a skincare composition, which can bring pleasant sensations, especially improved softness / stickiness and / or squeakiness sensations after application.SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0006] The inventors have found that such a need can be achieved by the composition according to the present invention.
[0007] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition, preferably for caring for and / or making up keratin material, comprising:
[0008] a) at least one plant derived butter with a melting point ranging from 25℃ to 50℃; and
[0009] b) at least one acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester.
[0010] By means of the specific combination of at least one plant derived butter with a melting point ranging from 25℃ to 50℃ and at least one acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester, the composition comprising the same can bring pleasant sensations, especially improved softness / stickiness and / or squeakiness sensations after application.
[0011] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a process for caring for and / or making up keratin material, in particular the skin, comprising
[0012] a) applying the composition according to the first aspect onto the keratin material, and optionally
[0013] b) massaging the keratin material for 2 seconds to 60 seconds.
[0014] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0015] In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from... to... " .
[0016] The articles "a" and "an" , as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limit is specifically stated. Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
[0017] Throughout the present application, the expression “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no material features or even no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (such as “consisting essentially of” and “consisting of” ) . In the case of “consisting essentially of, ” any additional compositions, materials, and / or components that materially affect the basic and novel characteristics are excluded from such an embodiment, but any compositions, materials and / or components that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics can be included in the embodiment.
[0018] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired performance obtained as required. The term “about” denoting a certain value is intended to denote a range within±5%of the value, e.g., ±3%, ±2%, ±1%,and±0.5%of the value.
[0019] As used herein, the term “keratin material” refers to the skin and the lip. By “skin” , it includes all the body skins, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratin material means the skin.
[0020] Plant derived butter
[0021] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one plant derived butter with a melting point ranging from 25℃ to 50℃.
[0022] According to the present invention, the plant derived butter preferably has a melting point ranging from 28℃ to 45℃, and more preferably from 30℃ to 40℃.
[0023] Hereinafter, the term "butter" means a fatty compound which undergoes a reversible solid / liquid change of state, and which includes, at a temperature of 25℃ and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) , a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
[0024] According to the present invention, the particular plant derived butter may be those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
[0025] Mention may be made of shorea butter, illipe butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia) , phulwara butter (M. butyracea) , mango seed butter (Mangifera indica) , murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru) , kokum butter (Garcinia indica) , tucuma butter, coffee butter (Coffea arabica) , apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca) , macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia) , grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera) , avocado butter (Persea gratissima) , olive butter (Olea europaea) , sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) , babassu butter, and Jojoba butter (Simmondsia Chinensis butter) .
[0026] Examples of the plant derived butter include, but are not limited to, mango seed butter, such as the one sold under the reference TRIVENT MANGO BUTTER by the company ALZO, Jojoba butter, such as the one sold under the name ISO JOJOBATM 50 by the company DESERT WHALE (VANTAGE SPEC. CHEM. ) , and murumuru butter, such as the one sold under the reference Rain Forest RF3710 by the company BERACA INGR. NATURAIS.
[0027] Also, examples of the plant derived butter include, but are not limited to, fats having a hydrocarbon chain distribution of C12: 30-55% / C14: 10-40%wherein the fat has two hydrocarbon chains, one hydrocarbon chain having 12 carbons and being present in the fat in an amount from 30-55%, and a second hydrocarbon chain having 14 carbons and being present in the fat from 10-40%, for example murumuru seed butter.
[0028] In one preferable embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises murumuru butter. Astrocaryum murumuru is a palm plant which may, for example, be found in Brazil; murumuru butter is extracted from the seeds of the plant.
[0029] Advantageously, the plant derived butter is in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0030] Acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester
[0031] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester.
[0032] According to the present invention, preferably, the acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester is an ester derivative which is formed from a (mono or poly) carboxylic acid bearing at least one OH function and one or more (mono or poly) alcohols, in which said at least one OH function is acylated to form at least one further ester group.
[0033] The carboxylic acid bears one or more OH groups, i.e., is monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, and preferably monohydroxylated.
[0034] The carboxylic acid bearing at least one OH function is chosen from monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated (mono or poly) carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0035] Preferably, the carboxylic acid bearing at least one OH function is chosen from monohydroxylated, saturated dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, especially chosen from monohydroxylated, saturated tricarboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0036] The alcohol is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated (mono or poly) alcohols comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alcohol is chosen from linear, saturated monoalcohols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0037] Preferably, the acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester is chosen from acetylated derivatives, propionylated derivatives and butyrylated derivatives, and is more preferably chosen from acetylated derivatives.
[0038] Examples of the carboxylic acid bearing at least one OH function include, but are not limited to, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, malic acid, ricinoleic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid. Preferable examples of the carboxylic acid bearing at least one OH function include citric acid and malic acid, and especially citric acid.
[0039] Examples of the alcohol include, but are not limited to, methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, hexanol, ethylhexanol, decanol, and isodecanol. Preferable examples of the alcohol include ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol and hexanol, and especially butanol.
[0040] According to the present invention, examples of the acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester include, but are not limited to, acetyl tributyl citrate, acetyl triethyl citrate, acetyl triethylhexyl citrate, acetyl trihexyl citrate, and butyroyl trihexyl citrate, and preferably acetyl tributyl citrate.
[0041] One especially preferable example of the acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester is the one sold under the name "CITROFLEX" by the company VERTELLUS and in particular acetyl tributyl citrate ( "CITROFLEX-A4" ) .
[0042] Advantageously, the acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 15 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 12 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0043] Hydrophilic gelling agent
[0044] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.
[0045] Hereinafter, the term “hydrophilic gelling agent” means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0046] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from acrylates-based polymers, celluloses or derivatives thereof, gums or derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from acrylates-based polymers.
[0047] In the present invention, preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) , such as the products sold under the tradenames PemulenTM TR1, PemulenTM TR2, PemulenTM EZ-4U, 1382, EDT 2020, Ultrez 20 Polymer and Ultrez 21 Polymer by the company Lubrizol.
[0048] Advantageously, the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0049] Phospholipid surfactant
[0050] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one phospholipid surfactant.
[0051] As used in the present application, the term "phospholipid" means a glycerol moiety on which two fatty acids are esterified at the carbon-1 and carbon-2 positions, and a phosphate group is esterified at the carbon-3 position. The fatty acid groups which are typically esterified to the glycerol may be saturated or unsaturated C12-C20 fatty acids, and are preferably selected from the group consisting of palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic acids. The phosphate group may be substituted or unsubstituted. In its unsubstituted form, the phospholipid is phosphatidic acid. Substituents on the phosphate group are well-known to those of skill in the art and may include nitrogen-containing alcohols (e.g., ethanolamine, serine and choline) and inositol (hexahydroxycyclohexane) . A preferred botanically-derived phospholipid is lecithin derived from soybeans. Lecithin may be hydrogenated, such that the unsaturated fatty acids in lecithin are converted to saturated fatty acids via hydrogenation.
[0052] According to the present invention, one especially preferable example of the phospholipid surfactant is hydrogenated lecithin.
[0053] Advantageously, the phospholipid surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0054] Hydrolyzed protein
[0055] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one hydrolyzed protein.
[0056] The hydrolyzed protein may be completely hydrolyzed or partially hydrolyzed.
[0057] Examples of the hydrolyzed protein include, but are not limited to, hydrolyzed gelatin, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed casein, hydrolyzed whey protein, hydrolyzed milk protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed egg protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed corn protein, hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed potato protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed silk, hydrolyzed yeast protein, and hydrolyzed vegetable protein.
[0058] According to the present invention, one especially preferable example of the hydrolyzed protein is hydrolyzed soy protein.
[0059] Advantageously, the hydrolyzed protein is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt.%to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 8 wt. %, and more preferably from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0060] Aqueous solvent
[0061] The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one aqueous solvent.
[0062] Preferably, the aqueous solvent of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C2-C8 polyols, or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
[0063] The term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e., glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.
[0064] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present application comprises at least one C2-C8 polyol selected from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin and polyethylene glycols.
[0065] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises both water, and a C2-C8 polyol, preferably glycerol (i.e. glycerin) .
[0066] Advantageously, the C2-C8 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 0.15 wt. %to 25 wt. %, preferably 0.5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, and more preferably from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0067] Advantageously, water is present in an amount ranging from 20 wt. %to 80 wt. %, preferably from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %, and more preferably from 40 wt. %to 60 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the foaming composition.
[0068] Additional ingredients
[0069] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients, selected from those conventionally used in skincare products.
[0070] The composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise any of the following additives: pH adjusting agents, biological extracts, antibacterial agents, fragrances, and chelating agents.
[0071] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of the additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.
[0072] Composition
[0073] According to the present invention, the composition comprising the above components may be in the form of a lotion, an emulsion, a paste, or a cream.
[0074] Preferably, the composition comprising the above components is in the form of an emulsion, e.g., water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, oil-in-water-in-oil(O / W / O) emulsion, or water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) emulsion. More preferably, the composition comprising the above components is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.
[0075] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention does not comprise a silicone or a silicone oil. Therefore, said composition can avoid the adverse affections from silicones and silicone oils, e.g., drying and irritating to skin, and further adversely affecting the pleasant feel.
[0076] Further, the composition according to the present invention can provide improved skin softness / stickiness and / or squeakiness sensations after application.
[0077] In one preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin material, comprising:
[0078] a) a plant derived butter chosen from Mango seed butter, Murumuru butter, Jojoba butter and combinations thereof, especially Murumuru butter; and
[0079] b) acetyl tributyl citrate.
[0080] In one preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin material, comprising:
[0081] a) a plant derived butter chosen from Mango seed butter, Murumuru butter, Jojoba butter and combinations thereof, especially Murumuru butter,
[0082] b) acetyl tributyl citrate,
[0083] c) a hydrogenated lecithin, and
[0084] d) hydrolyzed protein.
[0085] In one preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin material, especially a skincare composition, comprising:
[0086] a) an amount of from 0.2 wt. %to 1 wt. %of a plant derived butter chosen from Mango seed butter, Murumuru butter, Jojoba butter and combinations thereof, especially Murumuru butter, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0087] b) an amount of from 0.4 wt. %to 12 wt. %of acetyl tributyl citrate, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0088] c) an amount of from 0.5 wt. %to 2 wt. %of a hydrogenated lecithin, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
[0089] d) an amount of from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %of a hydrolyzed protein, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0090] Process and use
[0091] The composition according to the present invention is used in a process for caring for and / or making up keratin material, such as the skin, in particular the face, by being applied onto the keratin material.
[0092] It was found that the composition according to the present invention can provide improved skin softness / stickiness and / or squeakiness sensations after application.
[0093] The composition according to the invention may be applied by any means enabling a uniform distribution, in particular using a finger or a palm.
[0094] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a process for caring for and / or making up keratin material, in particular the skin, comprising applying the above composition onto the keratin material, and optionally massaging the skin for 2 seconds to 60 seconds.
[0095] The present invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.
[0096] EXAMPLES
[0097] Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof were listed in Table 1.
[0098] Table 1
[0099] Comparative Examples 1-4 and Inventive Example 1-4
[0100] The compositions according to comparative examples (CE. ) 1-4 and inventive example (Ex. ) 1-4 comprising the ingredients shown in Table 2 were prepared, with all amounts expressed by percentages by weight of active matters with regard to the total weight of each composition.
[0101] Table 2
[0102] Preparation process
[0103] The compositions were prepared from a process comprising the following steps, taking composition of Inventive Example 1 for example:
[0104] 1) . mixing Murumuru Butter and Acetyl Tributyl Citrate under stirring at room temperature to form Premix 1, and further stirring Premix 1 until it was clear,
[0105] 2) . mixing Hydrogenated Lecithin with water and glycerin under stirring at a temperature of 60℃ to form Premix 2, and further stirring Premix 2 until it was even, then heating Premix 2 to a temperature of 75℃,
[0106] 3) . heating Premix 1 from step 1) to a temperature of 75℃,
[0107] 4) . adding Premix 1 from step 3) into Premix 2 from step 2) and performing emulsification by VMI at 100 rpm for 10 minutes at the temperature of 75℃ to form Mixture 1,
[0108] 5) . gently stirring Mixture 1 and cooling it using water bath to room temperature, and
[0109] 6) . adding Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer and Hydrolyzed Soy Protein into Mixture 1 to form Mixture 2, and further stirring Mixture 2 until it was clear to form the final composition.
[0110] Evaluation of compositions
[0111] The compositions as prepared were evaluated in terms of softness, stickiness and squeakiness.
[0112] Five trained experts of a panel were invited to evaluate the compositions through a skin sensorial test. For each composition, the five trained experts applied 0.2g of the composition on the skin and gave a score for evaluation. The final scores of softness, stickiness and squeakiness were calculated by average.
[0113] Softness means the ease of pushing up the skin with two fingers.
[0114] Procedure (gesture) : putting the index and middle fingertips on the bottom cheek, and pushing the cheek up for five times. Skin softness after application was evaluated with a score of from 1 (very uncomfortable, i.e., friction was felt) to 5 (very soft) , and the final score was averaged and ranked according to the following criteria.
[0115] Scores 4.1-5.0: Excellent,
[0116] Scores 3.1-4.0: Good,
[0117] Score 3.0: Not good not bad,
[0118] Scores 2.0-2.9: Bad,
[0119] Scores 1.0-1.9: Very bad.
[0120] Stickiness means the sensation of adhesion between the back of two fingers (index and middle) and the skin of the cheek.
[0121] Procedure (gesture) : evaluating the stickiness between the back of the fingers and the cheekjust after application. The stickier, the higher the score was, and vice versa. The final score was averaged and ranked according to the following criteria.
[0122] Scores 4.1-5.0: Super sticky,
[0123] Scores 3.1-4.0: very sticky,
[0124] Score 3.0: Medium sticky,
[0125] Scores 2.0-2.9: Not very sticky,
[0126] Scores 1.0-1.9: Not sticky.
[0127] Squeakiness means the intensity of squeak (draggy feeling) rubbing when touching skin.
[0128] Procedure (gesture) : slightly moving the backs of the fingers (index and middle) on the cheek (sliding 1-2 times from bottom to top) and evaluating viscous feeling just after application. The more viscous, the higher the score was and vice versa. The final score was averaged and ranked according to the following criteria.
[0129] Scores 4.1-5.0: Super squeaky,
[0130] Scores 3.1-4.0: Very squeaky,
[0131] Score 3.0: Medium squeaky,
[0132] Scores 2.0-2.9: Not very squeaky,
[0133] Scores 1.0-1.9: Not squeaky.
[0134] The results obtained were summarized in Table 3.
[0135] Table 3
[0136] From the data in Table 3, it can be seen that only the compositions comprising both a plant derived butter of the present invention and an acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester of the present invention can obtain both a softness score of 3.1 or higher and a stickiness and / or squeakiness score of 2 or lower. By contrast, the composition of CE. 1 comprising only a plant derived butter obtains a softness score of 2, and the compositions of CEs. 2-4 comprising a hydroxylated ester which is not an acylated derivative obtain a softness score of 2 or lower and a stickiness and / or squeakiness score of 3.5 or higher.
[0137] In this way, the compositions of the Inventive Examples, comprising both a plant derived butter of the present invention and an acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester of the present invention, can obtain a higher softness score and / or a lower stickiness and / or squeakiness score than the compositions of the Comparative Examples, and it is thus demonstrated that the compositions of the present invention can provide significant improvement of the softness and stickiness and / or squeakiness sensations.
Claims
1.A composition, preferably for caring for and / or making up keratin material, comprising:a) at least one plant derived butter with a melting point ranging from 25℃ to 50℃; andb) at least one acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester.2.The composition according to claim 1, wherein the plant derived butter has a melting point ranging from 28℃ to 45℃, and preferably from 30℃ to 40℃.3.The composition according to claim 1, the plant derived butter is chosen from Mango seed butter, Murumuru butter, Jojoba butter and combinations thereof, and is especially murumuru butter.4.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester is an ester derivative which is formed from a (mono or poly) carboxylic acid bearing at least one OH function and one or more (mono or poly) alcohols, in which said at least one OH function is acylated to form at least one further ester group.5.The composition according to claim 4, wherein the carboxylic acid bearing at least one OH function is chosen from monohydroxylated saturated dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, especially chosen from monohydroxylated saturated tricarboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or the alcohol is chosen from linear saturated monoalcohols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or the acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester is chosen from acetylated derivatives, propionylated derivatives and butyrylated derivatives, and is preferably chosen from acetylated derivatives.6.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester is selected from the group consisting of acetyl tributyl citrate, acetyl triethyl citrate, acetyl triethylhexyl citrate, acetyl trihexyl citrate, butyroyl trihexyl citrate, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably acetyl tributyl citrate.7.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, which is chosen from acrylates-based polymers, celluloses or derivatives thereof, gums or derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably chosen from acrylates-based polymers, and is especially Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer.8.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one phospholipid surfactant which is preferably chosen from hydrogenated lecithin.9.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one hydrolyzed protein which is preferably selected from hydrolyzed gelatin, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed casein, hydrolyzed whey protein, hydrolyzed milk protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed egg protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed corn protein, hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed potato protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed silk, hydrolyzed yeast protein, hydrolyzed vegetable protein and mixtures thereof, and is especially hydrolyzed soy protein, wherein the hydrolyzed protein is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 8 wt. %, and more preferably from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.10.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the plant derived butter is in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, and more preferably 0.2 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.11.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably 0.2 wt. %to 15 wt. %, and more preferably 0.4 wt. %to 12 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.12.The composition according to any one of claims 7-11, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.13.The composition according to any one of claims 8-12, wherein the phospholipid surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.14.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising aqueous solvents, which includes both C2-C8 polyols and water, and preferably both glycerin and water, wherein the C2-C8 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 0.15 wt. %to 25 wt. %, preferably 0.5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, more preferably from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition, and water is present in an amount ranging from 20 wt. %to 80 wt. %, preferably from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %, and more preferably from 40 wt. %to 60 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the foaming composition.15.A process for caring for and / or making up keratin material, in particular the skin, comprisinga) applying the composition according to any one of claims 1-14 onto the keratin material, and optionallyb) massaging the keratin material for 2 seconds to 60 seconds.
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