Methods for treating keratin fibers with osmolytes, carboxylic acid and amino acids

Abstract

The present disclosure relates to methods for treating curly hair, for example for enhancing curls, reshaping curls, or preventing, reducing, and / or repairing damage to curly hair, and for balancing or limiting water uptake into hair fibers, maintaining moisture equilibrium in hair, reducing frizz of hair, building bonds in hair, limiting uptake of minerals into hair fibers, increasing shine of the treated hair, and / or removing minerals from hair fibers in hair.

Description

[0001] METHODS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS WITH OSMOLYTES, CARBOXYLIC ACID AND AMINO ACIDS

[0002] CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

[0003] The present application is a continuation-in-part of International Applications Nos. PCT / BR2023 / 050481 , filed on December 20, 2023, PCT / BR2023 / 050482, filed on December 20, 2023, PCT / BR2023 / 050483, filed on December 20, 2023, and PCT / BR2023 / 050485, filed on December 20, 2023, from which all priority is claimed and the entire contents of each of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0004] FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0005] The present disclosure relates to methods for treating curly hair, for example for enhancing curls, reshaping curls, or preventing, reducing, and / or repairing damage to curly hair and for balancing or limiting water uptake into hair fibers, maintaining moisture equilibrium in hair, reducing frizz of hair, building bonds in hair, limiting uptake of minerals into hair fibers, increasing shine of the treated hair, and / or removing minerals from hair fibers in hair.

[0006] BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0007] Consumers desire to have healthy and strong hair. However, various hair treatments, such as those for changing or enhancing the appearance of hair, e.g., by changing the color, style, and / or shape of the hair, are known to damage hair. Additionally, repeated styling can lead to damaged hair, for example due to repeated use of heat and styling tools. All of these processes can break bonds within the hair fibers, which if not reformed results in damaged hair.

[0008] Further, curly hair has challenges that are even more significant than with straight hair. For example, curly hair tends to be weaker and more prone to damage than straight hair. Thus, such hair treatments and processes tend to impart even greater damage to curly hair than to straight hair.

[0009] For example, hair lightening and dyeing compositions and processes generally require the presence of a strong alkalizing agent such as ammonia, as well as additional compounds such as oxidizing agents. In order to alter the color of the hair, these components must first break down the natural components in the hair fibers. Similarly, hair straightening or relaxing compositions also involve harsh chemicals to change the shape of the hair by breaking the disulfide bonds in the hair fibers.

[0010] It is known that, while such processes effectively alter the color and shape of the hair, the chemical agents used inherently result in damage to the hair and negatively impact the strength, elasticity, and porosity of the hair fibers. For example, hair that has been bleached, dyed, relaxed, straightened, repeatedly styled, etc., is often dry, frizzy, and generally unhealthy in feel and appearance. This is caused by an increased uptake of water into the hair fiber that occurs as a result of the damage. This water will then react with components of the hair, such as keratin, which can result in production of cysteic acid and can prohibit reforming of bonds. Additionally, the damaged hair is brittle and / or has increased elasticity, which result in greater incidence of hair breakage. In hair that is naturally curly or wavy, such damage also tends to manifest as loss of curl shape and / or curl definition.

[0011] Another problem that consumers deal with is related to the regularly care for their hair in the course of ordinary hygiene routines, e.g. washing and conditioning their hair, this can negatively impact the hair’s appearance due to impurities in the water such as minerals. In addition, the damage to the hair resulted from the harsh chemicals used can actually lead to a greater degree of mineral uptake into the hair fiber, not just from water but from the hair treatment products themselves. For example, hair that has been dyed and / or bleached may have increased levels of minerals such as copper, magnesium, calcium, zinc, and silicon. As a result, hair that has been bleached, dyed, relaxed, straightened, repeatedly styled, etc., is often dull, dry, frizzy, and generally unhealthy in feel and appearance.

[0012] As such, consumers seek hair compositions and methods for preventing or minimizing the damage and / or for repairing hair that has been damaged by these treatments and processes. In addition, consumers with curly or wavy hair desire hair compositions and methods that restore and / or enhance curl shape and / or definition.

[0013] Therefore, there is a need for hair compositions and methods that can minimize the negative effects of hair damage, for example for treating curly hair, for example for enhancing curls, reshaping curls, or preventing, reducing, and / or repairing damage to curly hair and for balancing or limiting water uptake into hair fibers, maintaining moisture equilibrium in hair, reducing frizz of hair, building bonds in hair, limiting uptake of minerals into hair fibers, increasing shine of the treated hair, and / or removing minerals from hair fibers.

[0014] However, formulating hair compositions that satisfactorily address these issues has proven to be challenging. For example, some hair compositions that attempt to address the problem of damage simply coat the hair with compounds that can improve the feel and appearance of the hair; however, this approach is only temporary and superficial. Instead of preventing or repairing hair damage, this approach simply masks the damage until the hair is next rinsed or washed. Other hair compositions attempt to address the damage within the hair fiber, but to date have not been satisfactory.

[0015] Furthermore, the development / formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is becoming a major goal in an effort to meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients, along with uses of such sustainable compositions, to address these environmental concerns. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good index of naturalness and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0016] The present inventors have now achieved an environmentally friendly synergistic combination of components that is surprisingly effective for preventing or minimizing hair damage, treating damaged hair, restoring or enhancing curl shape, balancing or limiting water uptake into hair fibers, maintaining moisture equilibrium in hair, reducing frizz of hair, building bonds in hair, limiting uptake of minerals into hair fibers, increasing shine of the treated hair, and / or removing minerals from hair fibers in hair.

[0017] Hair treated with compositions according to the disclosure exhibit surprisingly reduced signs of damage including greater strength and / or decreased elasticity, particularly in hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical treatments, and more visible curl shape and definition.

[0018] SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0019] The present disclosure relates to methods for treating curly hair, for example for enhancing curls, reshaping curls, or preventing, reducing, and / or repairing damage to curly hair, and for balancing or limiting water uptake into hair fibers, maintaining moisture equilibrium in hair, reducing frizz of hair, rebuilding bonds in hair, limiting uptake of minerals into hair fibers, increasing shine of the treated hair, and / or removing minerals from hair fibers in hair.

[0020] The hair compositions that are used in the methods of the present invention are environmentally friendly and comprise a synergistic combination of (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) optionally at least one carboxylic acid, and (d) at least one solvent, and the methods comprise applying a composition according to the disclosure to the hair.

[0021] The hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the present invention are preferably free or substantially free of silicone compounds.

[0022] The hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the present invention optionally further include (e) at least one additional component chosen from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, film formers, or combinations thereof. The pH of the hair compositions according to the present invention is generally less than 7 or less than about 6, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.

[0023] In some embodiments the hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the present invention comprise at least one amino acid chosen from basic amino acids, for example arginine, histidine, lysine, salts thereof, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of basic amino acids and salts thereof ranges from about 0.1 % to about 15%, preferably from about 1 % to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably still from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In further embodiments the compositions comprise at least one amino acid chosen from acidic or neutral amino acids and salts thereof, for example serine. In various embodiments, the total amount of acidic and / or neutral amino acids and salts thereof ranges from about 0.01 % to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 3%, and most preferably from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In still further embodiments, the compositions comprise a mixture of basic, acidic, and / or neutral amino acids, for example the compositions may comprise arginine and serine. In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof present in the composition ranges from about 0.1 % to about 15%, preferably from about 1 % to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably still from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] In some preferred embodiments, hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the present invention comprise one or more amino acids chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), and combinations of two or more thereof.

[0025] In various embodiments, the hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the present invention comprise at least one osmolyte chosen from carbohydrate sugars, methylsulfonium compounds, polyamines, and / or amino acid derivatives such as betaines, preferably chosen from compounds of formula (II). In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition ranges from about 0.01 % to about 10%, preferably from about 1 % to about 5%, more preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably still from about 1.5% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 2% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to the total amount of osmolytes that is equal to or greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1 , preferably ranging from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1 .75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1 .75 to about 2.25.

[0026] In various embodiments, the hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the present invention comprise at least one carboxylic acid chosen from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof, and preferably citric acid, lactic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof may range from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1 % to about 15%, more preferably from about 2% to about 12%, more preferably still from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition. In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof to the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof of greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1 .5.

[0027] The solvent may comprise water and / or at least one non-aqueous solvent, and in some embodiments comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent. Optionally, the hair compositions comprise water and at least one nonaqueous solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol, and have a total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranging from about 1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments the hair compositions comprise water and at least one nonaqueous solvent, preferably chosen from polyols, and have a total amount of nonaqueous solvents ranging from about 1.0% to about 20.0%, preferably from about 5.0% to about 20.0%, more preferably from about 5.0% to about 15.0%, and most preferably from about 8.0% to about 12.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] In some embodiments, the hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the present invention further comprise at least one film former. The film former may, for example, be chosen from anionic compounds or polymers, non-ionic compounds or polymers, amphoteric compounds or polymers, zwitterionic compounds or polymers, cationic compounds or polymers, proteins, viscosity modifiers, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyacrylate copolymers, polymethacrylate copolymers, polyamides, polyaminoamides, polyesters, polysaccharides, polyacrylamides, starches, gums, or combinations of two or more thereof. If present, the total amount of film former can range from about 0.05% to about 15%, for example from about 0.1 % to about 12%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1 % to about 6%, and most preferably from about 1 .5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] The hair compositions may optionally also include at least one additional component chosen from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, direct dyes, or combinations thereof.

[0030] In certain embodiments, the hair composition that can be used in methods according to the present invention may comprise (a) at least one amino acid and / or a salt thereof, preferably at least one basic amino acid and / or a salt thereof, (b) at least one amino acid derivative, preferably at least one betaine, more preferably at least one compound of formula (II), for example glycine betaine, in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one carboxylic acid and / or a salt thereof, (d) at least one solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol, and (e) optionally at least one additional component chosen from film formers, fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, direct dyes, or combinations thereof. For example, in at least some embodiments, the composition comprises arginine and the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 1 % to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof, for example arginine, serine, salts thereof, or combinations thereof, to the total amount of betaines, preferably chosen from compounds of formula (II) and salts thereof, for example glycine betaine, that is greater than or equal to about 0.5, such as greater than about 1 , preferably from about 1 .25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1 .5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1 .75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1 .75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof to the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof that is greater than about 0.5 or greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1 .5.

[0031] In preferred embodiments, the hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the present invention comprise (a) at least one amino carboxylic acid or a salt thereof, preferably chosen from arginine and / or a salt thereof, (b) at least one betaine derivative, preferably chosen from glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, and / or salts thereof, (d) water. For example, the hair composition may comprise (a) from about 2% to about 6% of arginine and / or a salt thereof, (b) from about 0.5% to about 3.5% of glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, and / or salts thereof, (d) water and optionally at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol, and (e) optionally at least one film former or serine, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof ranges from about 2% to about 10%, and wherein all amounts are by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition. The pH of the hair compositions is generally less than 7, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition. In some embodiments, the hair composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of am ino acids and salts thereof to glycine betaine of greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1 , preferably from about 1 .25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the hair composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof to the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof of greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5. In some embodiments, the hair compositions include at least one additional component chosen from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, direct dyes, or combinations thereof. If present, the hair compositions comprise serine in an amount ranging from about 0.01 % to about 2%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 1 %, and most preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition. When the hair compositions comprise serine, the hair compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to serine of greater than about 2.0, preferably ranging from about 2.0 to about 15.0, more preferably from about 4.0 to about 14.0, more preferably still from about 6 to about 13, and most preferably from about 8.0 to about 12.0. When the hair compositions comprise serine, the hair compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of glycine betaine to serine of greater than about 2.0, preferably ranging from about 2.0 to about 10.0, more preferably from about 3.0 to about 8.0, more preferably still from about 3.5 to about 7.0, and most preferably from about 4.0 to about 6.0.

[0032] The disclosure further relates to methods for treating hair, preferably curly or wavy hair, comprising applying a hair composition according to the disclosure to the hair. The methods may be methods for balancing or limiting water uptake into hair fibers, maintaining moisture equilibrium in hair, reducing frizz of hair, building bonds in hair, limiting uptake of minerals into hair fibers, increasing shine of the treated hair, removing minerals, reshaping curly hair and / or enhancing curl or wave recovery, and / or methods for reducing or preventing hair damage, protecting hair from damage, restoring hair fiber moisture equilibrium, providing hair fiber strength, and / or improving hair fiber elasticity, particularly hair that has been or will be subjected to hair compositions or processes that are known to damage hair. The hair compositions may be left on the hair for an optional leave-in period, and optionally rinsed from the hair.

[0033] BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0034] FIGS. 1A-1 B show the structures of certain exemplary osmolytes that can be included in the hair compositions according to the disclosure.

[0035] FIGS. 2A-2C show images of curly hair before and after treatment with a hair composition according to the disclosure.

[0036] FIGS. 3A-3B show images of previously bleached curly hair before and after treatment with a hair composition according to the disclosure.

[0037] FIG. 4 shows RUMBA 2D images of curly hair swatches that were treated with a hair composition according to the disclosure (2A) or a comparative composition (C1 ) after a bleaching process.

[0038] FIG. 5 is a graph comparing water uptake of two types of hair treated with hair compositions according to the present invention and comparative compositions, and an untreated control swatch for each type of hair.

[0039] FIG. 6 is a graph comparing frizz of two types of hair treated with hair compositions according to the present invention and comparative compositions, and an untreated control swatch for each type of hair, after exposure to high humidity conditions.

[0040] FIG. 7 shows photographs of swatches of two types of hair before and after the cosmetic treatment with a hair composition according to the present invention, demonstrating a reduction in frizz.

[0041] FIGS. 8A-8B are graphs showing the elasticity of hair fibers of swatches S3-S10 after one cosmetic treatment (8A) and five cosmetic treatments (8B).

[0042] FIGS. 9A-9B are graphs showing the elasticity of hair fibers of swatches S11 -S18 after one cosmetic treatment (9A) and five cosmetic treatments (9B).

[0043] FIG. 10 is a graph showing the elasticity of hair fibers of swatches S19- S23 after five cosmetic treatments.

[0044] FIGS. 11 A-11 B are graphs showing the break stress of hair fibers treated with hair compositions according to the present invention and comparative compositions.

[0045] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to methods for treating hair, particularly curly or wavy hair, for example for reshaping curly hair and / or enhancing curl or wave recovery, and / or for repairing damaged hair, providing strength to the hair, and / or reducing elasticity of the hair fibers, and for balancing or limiting water uptake into hair fibers, maintaining moisture equilibrium in hair, reducing frizz of hair, rebuilding bonds in hair, limiting uptake of minerals into hair fibers, increasing shine of the treated hair, removing minerals from hair fibers. Hair treated according to the disclosure exhibits surprisingly increased shine and reduced signs of damage. While not intending to be bound by theory, it is believed that this is due to the unexpectedly synergistic ability of the combination of amino acids, osmolytes, and carboxylic acids to limit uptake of minerals into hair fibers and / or remove minerals from hair fibers, which was not previously known for this effect. In addition, hair that has been treated according to the disclosure surprisingly demonstrates recovery of curls that were noticeably diminished due to various hair treatments and processes. Hair treated according to the disclosure also exhibits surprisingly reduced signs of damage, including greater strength and / or decreased elasticity, in particular in damaged hair.

[0046] I. HAIR COMPOSITIONS

[0047] The environmentally friendly hair compositions that can be used in the methods according to the present invention comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) optionally at least one carboxylic acid, and (d) at least one solvent. The hair compositions may optionally comprise one or more additional components, such as film formers, fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, direct dyes, or combinations thereof.

[0048] Amino Acids

[0049] Hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the present invention comprise at least one amino acid. Optionally, in various embodiments, hair compositions according to the disclosure can comprise one, two, or three amino acids. Amino acids that can be chosen include those that are basic, acidic, or neutral at neutral pH. In preferred embodiments, hair compositions include at least one basic amino acid.

[0050] As used herein, the term “amino acid” includes amino carboxylic acids and salts thereof as well as amino sulfonic acids and salts thereof. As used herein, amino acids are understood to refer to organic compounds containing a carboxylic acid group ( — COOH) (amino carboxylic acids) and / or sulfonic acid group ( — S(=O)2-OH) (amino sulfonic acids) and an amino group ( — NH2) which may be primary or secondary, or may be intra-cyclic, along with a side chain (R group) specific to each amino acid.

[0051] Amino carboxylic acids that may be chosen include, for example, alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and combinations of two or more thereof. Exemplary amino sulfonic acids include aminomethane sulfonic acid, 2-aminoethane sulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropane sulfonic acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexane sulfonic acid, aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid, aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoluene sulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic acid, amino phenol sulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic acid, amino hexyl benzene sulfonic acid, and combinations of two or more thereof.

[0052] Salts of amino acids are also included in the term “amino acid,” whether or not so stated. By way of non-limiting example, salts that may be chosen include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example the salts of alkali metals, such as the lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; the salts of alkaline earth metals, such as the magnesium or calcium salts, and the zinc salts.

[0053] Furthermore, amino acids can be in either the D-, L-, or DL- configuration. In some preferred embodiments, it is advantageous to choose amino acids in the L- configuration, for example L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine, L-lysine, or combinations of two or more thereof.

[0054] In some embodiments it is particularly advantageous to choose one or more amino carboxylic acids. Thus, in various embodiments, the hair compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids of formula (I): wherein: p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and when p = 1 , R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, it being possible for this ring to be substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1-C4)alkyl; or when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear, or branched (C1 -C12)alkyl group, preferably a (C1 -C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH-, or - C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (- OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.

[0055] In some embodiments when p = 1 , R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 ring members, this ring not being substituted.

[0056] In some embodiments when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear, or branched (C1 -C4)alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring. In some embodiments, p is preferably 2.

[0057] In some embodiments, the hair compositions comprise one or more amino acids chosen from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least certain embodiments, the amino acid compounds in the hair composition consist essentially of or consist of amino acids chosen from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the foregoing (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more thereof.

[0058] In some embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the hair compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of glycine and / or salts thereof. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the hair compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or salts thereof. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the hair compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of proline and / or salts thereof. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the hair compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of methionine and / or salts thereof. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the hair compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of serine and / or salts thereof. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the hair compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or salts thereof. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the hair compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of histidine and / or salts thereof. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the hair compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lysine and / or salts thereof. In still further embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the hair compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of basic amino acids and / or salts thereof.

[0059] In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids may range from about 0.1 % to about 15%, such as about 0.1 % to about 12%, about 0.1 % to about 10%, about 0.1 % to about 9%, about 0.1 % to about 8%, about 0.1 % to about 7%, about 0.1 % to about 6%, about 0.1 % to about 5.5%, about 0.1 % to about 5%, about 0.1 % to about 4.5%, about 0.1 % to about 4%, about 0.1 % to about 3.5%, about 0.1 % to about 3%, about 0.1 % to about 2.5%, about 0.1 % to about 2%, about 0.1 % to about 1.5%, about 0.1 % to about 1 %, about 0.5% to about 15%, about 0.5% to about 12%, about 0.5% to about 10%, about 0.5% to about 9%, about 0.5% to about 8%, about 0.5% to about 7%, about 0.5% to about 6%, about 0.5% to about 5.5%, about 0.5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 4.5%, about 0.5% to about 4%, about 0.5% to about 3.5%, about 0.5% to about 3%, about 0.5% to about 2.5%, about 0.5% to about 2%, about 0.5% to about 1.5%, about 0.5% to about 1 %, about 1 % to about 15%, about 1 % to about 12%, about 1 % to about 10%, about 1 % to about 9%, about 1 % to about 8%, about 1 % to about 7%, about 1 % to about 6%, about 1 % to about 5.5%, about 1 % to about 5%, about 1 % to about 4.5%, about 1 % to about 4%, about 1 % to about 3.5%, about 1 % to about 3%, about 1 % to about 2.5%, about 1 % to about 2%, about 1 % to about 1 .5%, about 1 .5% to about 15%, about 1 .5% to about 12%, about 1 .5% to about 10%, about 1 .5% to about 9%, about 1 .5% to about 8%, about 1 .5% to about 7%, about 1 .5% to about 6%, about 1 .5% to about 5.5%, about 1 .5% to about 5%, about 1 .5% to about 4.5%, about 1 .5% to about 4%, about 1 .5% to about 3.5%, about 1 .5% to about 3%, about 1 .5% to about 2.5%, about 1 .5% to about 2%, about 2% to about 15%, about 2% to about 12%, about 2% to about 10%, about 2% to about 9%, about 2% to about 8%, about 2% to about 7%, about 2% to about 6%, about 2% to about 5.5%, about 2% to about 5%, about 2% to about 4.5%, about 2% to about 4%, about 2% to about 3.5%, about 2% to about 3%, about 2% to about 2.5%, about 2.5% to about 15%, about 2.5% to about 12%, about 2.5% to about 10%, about 2.5% to about 9%, about 2.5% to about 8%, about 2.5% to about 7%, about 2.5% to about 6%, about 2.5% to about 5.5%, about 2.5% to about 5%, about 2.5% to about 4.5%, about 2.5% to about 4%, about 2.5% to about 3.5%, about 2.5% to about 3%, about 3% to about 15%, about 3% to about 12%, about 3% to about 10%, about 3% to about 9%, about 3% to about 8%, about 3% to about 7%, about 3% to about 6%, about 3% to about 5.5%, about 3% to about 5%, about 3% to about 4.5%, about 3% to about 4%, about 3% to about 3.5%, about 3.5% to about 15%, about 3.5% to about 12%, about 3.5% to about 10%, about 3.5% to about 9%, about 3.5% to about 8%, about 3.5% to about 7%, about 3.5% to about 6%, about 3.5% to about 5.5%, about 3.5% to about 5%, about 3.5% to about 4.5%, about 3.5% to about 4%, about 4% to about 15%, about 4% to about 12%, about 4% to about 10%, about 4% to about 9%, about 4% to about 8%, about 4% to about 7%, about 4% to about 6%, about 4% to about 5.5%, about 4% to about 5%, about 4% to about 4.5%, about 4.5% to about 15%, about 4.5% to about 12%, about 4.5% to about 10%, about 4.5% to about 9%, about 4.5% to about 8%, about 4.5% to about 7%, about 4.5% to about 6%, about 4.5% to about 5.5%, or about 4.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, about 3% to about 7%, about 3.5% to about 6.5%, about 3.75% to about 6.25%, about 4% to about 6%, about 4.25% to about 5.75%, about 4.5% to about 5.5%, about 4.75% to about 5.25%, or about 4.8% to about 5.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amino acids may be about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1 %, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4%, or about 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of basic amino acids in any of the foregoing ranges and amounts.

[0060] In one preferred embodiment, the hair compositions comprise arginine and / or a salt thereof. In another preferred embodiment, where more than one amino acid is present, arginine is present in the hair composition in an amount greater than the combined amounts of the other amino acid(s) present, for example arginine comprises greater than about 50%, such as greater than about 60%, greater than about 70%, greater than about 80%, greater than about 90%, greater than about 95%, greater than about 98%, or greater than about 99% of all amino acids present in the hair composition. In a further preferred embodiment, arginine is the only the basic amino acid in the hair composition. In various preferred embodiments, the hair composition comprises arginine in an amount ranging from about 1 % to about 10%, such as from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, preferably from about 3% to about 7%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, more preferably from about 4% to about 6%, more preferably from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, more preferably still from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, yet more preferably from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, and most preferably from about 4.8% to about 5.2%, or may be present in an amount of about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1 %, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4%, or about 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.

[0061] In another preferred embodiment, hair compositions according to the disclosure comprise serine and / or a salt thereof. If present, the amount of serine may range from about 0.01 % to about 2%, such as from about 0.01 % to about 1 .5%, about 0.01 % to about 1 %, about 0.01 % to about 0.5%, about 0.01 % to about 0.4%, about 0.01 % to about 0.3%, about 0.01 % to about 0.2%, about 0.01 % to about 0.1 %, about 0.05% to about 2%, about 0.05% to about 1.5%, about 0.05% to about 1 %, about 0.05% to about 0.5%, about 0.05% to about 0.4%, about 0.05% to about 0.3%, about 0.05% to about 0.2%, about 0.05% to about 0.1 %, about 0.1 % to about 2%, about 0.1 % to about 1 .5%, about 0.1 % to about 1 %, or about 0.1 % to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition. For example, in some preferred embodiments, the hair compositions may comprise serine in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 1 %, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 0.75%, and most preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, such as about 0.1 %, about 0.25%, about 0.5%, about 0.75%, or about 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.

[0062] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to choose at least one basic amino acid and at least one additional amino acid chosen from acidic and / or neutral amino acids. For example, in preferred embodiments, it may be advantageous to include at least one basic amino acid and serine in hair compositions according to the disclosure, and to choose total amounts of basic amino acids and serine such that the hair composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine that is greater than about 2, such as greater than about 3, greater than about 4, greater than about 5, or greater than about 6. For example, the hair composition may have a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, such as from about 4 to about 14, from about 6 to about 13, from about 8 to about 12, or from about 9 to about 11 . In further examples, the weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine may be about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11 , or about 12. In some preferred embodiments, the hair composition comprises serine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11 , or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11 , or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.

[0063] In still further preferred embodiments, the hair compositions comprise serine and arginine, and have a weight ratio of arginine to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11 , or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11 , or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.

[0064] Osmolytes

[0065] Osmolytes are molecules, typically of lower molecular weight, used by cells to maintain cell volume, regulate osmotic pressure, and maintain cellular homeostasis, for example in response to environmental stressors. Organic osmolytes include amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof, carbohydrates such sugars and sugar alcohols (polyols), polyamines, betaines, methylsulfonium compounds (e.g., dimethylsulfonopropionate), and urea. For purposes of this disclosure, “osmolytes” includes derivatives of amino carboxylic acids, derivatives of amino sulfonic acids, and salts of the derivatives (referred to herein collectively as “amino acid derivatives”), but does not include amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, or salts thereof which are described above, and does not include polyols.

[0066] Hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the present invention comprise one or more osmolytes, preferably one or more organic osmolytes. In some embodiments, the hair compositions comprise more than one osmolyte. Without intending to be bound by theory, it is believed that the use of osmolytes according to the disclosure permits treated hair to maintain moisture equilibrium, thus reducing potential damage to the hair, or restores moisture equilibrium to already- damaged hair, thereby allowing the treated hair to recover strength and / or reduced elasticity associated with healthy hair. It is believed that this also permits or enhances rebuilding of bonds within the hair fiber. It is further believed that the use of osmolytes in combination with amino acids according to the disclosure limits uptake of minerals into hair fibers, and / or removes minerals from hair fibers, with the osmolytes and amino acids working together in the hair fibers to prevent the uptake of and / or eliminate the presence of such minerals.

[0067] In preferred embodiments, useful osmolytes are chosen from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, amino acid derivatives such as betaines, and more preferably are chosen from compounds of formula (II) or salts thereof:

[0068] (R1 )(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)n-Y-

[0069] (H) wherein:

[0070] R1 , R2, and R3 are independently chosen from C1 -C4 alkyl groups, preferably C1 -C2 alkyl groups, more preferably methyl;

[0071] A is N or S; m and n are independently 0 or 1 ;

[0072] X is a divalent alkyl group (= an alkylene group), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (- OH) or amino (-NH2); and

[0073] Y’ is -COO- or -OSO3-; with the provisos that: o when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched, and / or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), (C1 -C10) hydrocarbon chain, preferably (C1 -C6), more preferably (C1 -C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or - CONH2; o when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C8)alkyl, preferably (C1 -C4)alkyl, group; and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, it being possible for this ring to be substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1 -C4)alkyl; and o when A is N and m = 1 , then R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains) (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain, preferably (C1 -C6), more preferably (C1 -C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or - CONH2.

[0074] Useful and non-limiting polyamine compounds may comprise primary and / or secondary and / or tertiary and / or quaternary amine functional groups. By way of example, polyamines that can be chosen include diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, and polymeric polyamines or polyimines, such as, for example, hexamethylenediamine, diethylenetetramine, diethylenetriamine, polyethyleneimine (PEI), polyvinyl amine, polyether amine, polylysine, ethylene diamine, 1 ,3- diaminopropane, cadaverine, spermidine, spermine, putrescine, tetraethylmethylenediamine, triethylenetetramine, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, useful polyamines are chosen from putrescine, spermidine, and / or spermine.

[0075] Useful and nonlimiting examples of betaines include glycine betaine, valine betaine, alanine betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, etc. Salts of betaines can also be used and are expressly included in the term “betaine” unless expressly stated otherwise. In particularly preferred embodiments, betaines are chosen from those corresponding to formula (II). Exemplary useful compounds of formula (II) include the compounds shown in FIGS. 1A-1 B. As shown in FIG. 1A, in some embodiments the compounds of formula (II) are in zwitterionic form, and as shown in FIG. 1 B, in some embodiments the compounds of formula (II) have a corresponding counterion, X’. The counterion is not limited, and can be any suitable counterion, for example a chloride ion, bromide ion, iodide ion, sulfate anion, sulfonate anion, methyl sulfate anion, phosphate anion, nitrate anion, etc. Thus, as used herein a “compound of formula (II)” expressly includes both the ionic form of the compound as well as salt forms, whether or not so stated.

[0076] As shown in FIGS. 1A-1 B, exemplary useful compounds of formula (II) include betaine and betaine derivatives (referred to herein as “betaines”), for example valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine (trimethyl glycine), histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxy pro line betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, and / or dimethylsulfoniopropionate. In a preferred embodiment, the osmolyte is glycine betaine (trimethyl glycine), alone or in combination with one or more additional osmolytes, for example one or more additional compounds of formula (II).

[0077] In some preferred embodiments, hair compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II). In additional preferred embodiments, hair compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more compounds of formula (II) that is a zwitterionic amino acid derivative bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising in total from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0078] In some preferred embodiments, hair compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R1 = R2 = methyl; A is N; and / or Y is COO-. In some other preferred embodiments, hair compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R3 is methyl. In other preferred embodiments, hair compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one group chosen from hydroxyl or amino. In still other preferred embodiments, hair compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms (not substituted), such as methylene or ethylene. In other preferred embodiments, hair compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R4 and R5, which may be the same or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, a saturated, linear or branched (C1 -C10) alkyl group, preferably (C1 -C6)alkyl, more preferably (C1 -C4) alkyl; a phenyl group; a benzyl group; an alkyl group substituted by a cyclic group (saturated or not, mono or bi-cyclic); a cyclic group (saturated or not, mono or bi-cyclic) substituted by an alkyl group; all these groups being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or - C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (- OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2; more preferably where R4 is hydrogen and / or where R5 is a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1 -C6)alkyl, more preferably (C1 -C4) alkyl; optionally substituted by one group chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -COOH, or -CONH2. In some preferred embodiments, when A is N and m = 0, R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted by one hydroxy group. In further preferred embodiments, R1 = R2 = methyl, A is N, Y is COO-, and X (if present) is a divalent alkyl group that may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms.

[0079] In one preferred embodiment, the hair composition comprises at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R1 = R2 = R3 = methyl; A is N; Y is COO-; X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one group chosen from hydroxyl or amino, more preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms (not substituted), such as methylene or ethylene; R4 is hydrogen; and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted by one hydroxy group.

[0080] In preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the hair composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more of the compounds shown in FIGS. 1A-1 B. In more preferred embodiments, hair compositions according to the disclosure comprise trimethyl glycine (referred to interchangeably as glycine betaine), optionally in combination with at least one additional osmolyte, and in particularly preferred embodiments the osmolyte in the hair composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of glycine betaine optionally with at least one additional compound of formula (II).

[0081] Useful and non-limiting examples of carbohydrate sugars that can be used include C3-C6 monosaccharides, for example pentoses and / or derivatives thereof, or hexoses and / or derivatives thereof. For example, the sugars may optionally be chosen from chosen from xylose, arabinose, ribose, 2-deoxy-ribose, ribulose, deoxy-ribulose, arabinose, xylulose, allose, altrose, glucose (including dextrose), glucosamine, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, tagatose, or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least some embodiments, the sugars are chosen from disaccharides, for example sucrose (also saccharose), maltose, lactose, cellobiose, trehalose, dextran, or from polysaccharides, for example maltotriose, starch, dextrins, cellulose, glycogen, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the sugars are preferably chosen from trehalose, glucose, sucrose, fructose, fructans, or combinations of two or more thereof.

[0082] In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the hair composition may range from about 0.01 % to about 15%, such as, for example, from about 0.1 % to about 10%, from about 0.1 % to about 9%, from about 0.1 % to about 8%, from about 0.1 % to about 7%, from about 0.1 % to about 6%, from about 0.1 % to about 5%, from about 0.1 % to about 4%, from about 0.1 % to about 3%, from about 0.1 % to about 2%, from about 0.1 % to about 1 %, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1 %, from about 1 % to about 10%, from about 1 % to about 9%, from about 1 % to about 8%, from about 1 % to about 7%, from about 1 % to about 6%, from about 1 % to about 5%, from about 1 % to about 4%, from about 1 % to about 3%, from about 1 % to about 2%, from about 1 .5% to about 10%, from about 1 .5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1 .5% to about 5%, from about 1 .5% to about 4%, from about 1 .5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2.25% to about 10%, from about 2.25% to about 9%, from about 2.25% to about 8%, from about 2.25% to about 7%, from about 2.25% to about 6%, from about 2.25% to about 5%, from about 2.25% to about 4%, from about 2.25% to about 3%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2.5% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition. For example, the total amount of osmolytes present in the hair composition may be about 2.0%, about 2.1 %, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.

[0083] In preferred embodiments the hair compositions comprise at least one betaine, and the total amount of betaines ranges from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example from about 1 % to about 5%, preferably from about 1 .25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or may be about 2.0%, about 2.1 %, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.

[0084] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair composition comprises glycine betaine in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example about 1 % to about 5%, preferably from about 1 .25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1 .5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or the glycine betaine may be present in an amount of about 2.0%, about 2.1 %, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.

[0085] It may be advantageous, in some embodiments, to choose amounts of amino acids and osmolytes to provide a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and salts thereof in the hair composition to the total amount of osmolytes in the hair composition that is greater than about 0.1 , for example greater than about 0.2, greater than about 0.5, greater than about 1 , greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In various embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and salts thereof to the total amount of osmolytes may range from about 0.1 to about 10, such as from about 0.2 to about 8, from about 0.5 to about 6, from about 1 to about 5, from about 1 .2 to about 4, or from about 1.5 to about 3.5. In other embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and salts thereof to the total amount of osmolytes may range from greater than 1 to about 4, such as from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1 .75 to about 2.5, from about 1 .75 to about 2.25, or from about 1 .8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) in the hair composition to the total amount of osmolytes in the hair composition may be about 1.1 , about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1 , about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.

[0086] In some embodiments, the hair compositions comprise a total amount of amino acids chosen from compounds of formula (I) and a total amount of osmolytes chosen from compounds of formula (II) such that a weight ratio of compounds of formula (l):compounds of formula (II) is greater than about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1 , for example greater than about 1 .25, greater than about 1 .5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In some embodiments, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (l):compounds of formula (II) in the hair composition may range from about 0.5 to about 6, for example from about 1 to about 4, from about 1 .25 to about 3.5, from about 1 .5 to about 3, from about 1 .75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (l):compounds of formula (II) in the hair composition may be about 0.5, about 0.6, about 0.7, about 0.8, about 0.9, about 1 , about 1.1 , about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1 , about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits.

[0087] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair composition comprises arginine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of arginine to glycine betaine of greater than 1 , for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example ranging from greater than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1 .5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1 .75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1 .75 to about 2.25. In another particularly preferred embodiment, the hair composition comprises arginine, serine, and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of [arginine + serine] to glycine betaine of greater than 1 , for example greater than about 1 .25, greater than about 1 .5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example ranging from greater than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1 .75 to about 2.25.

[0088] Carboxylic Acids Hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the present invention may include at least one carboxylic acid. Optionally, the hair compositions may comprise at least two carboxylic acids, at least three carboxylic acids, etc. According to various embodiments of the disclosure, useful carboxylic acids include organic compounds that include, for example, one (mono-), two (di-), three (tri-), or more acid functional groups and at least one carbon atom.

[0089] Carboxylic acids that can be used may optionally have a molecular weight of less than about 500 g / mol, less than about 400 g / mol, less than about 300 g / mol, or less than about 200 g / mol. In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids have a molecular weight of less than about 300 g / mol, or less than about 200 g / mol.

[0090] Salts of carboxylic acids can also be used and are expressly included in the term “carboxylic acid” unless expressly stated otherwise. The salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example the salts of alkali metals, such as the lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; the salts of alkaline earth metals, such as the magnesium or calcium salts, and the zinc salts. The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred in some embodiments, and in particular the sodium salts.

[0091] In preferred embodiments, carboxylic acids comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 14 carbon atoms. In some preferred embodiments, the hair compositions comprise one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and / or a salt thereof. These (poly)acids are different from the compounds of amino acids type described above. Useful (poly)acids comprise at least one -COOH group (in acid or salified form); they can thus comprise a single -COOH group (monoacid) or can comprise more than one, for example two - COOH groups (in acid or salified form), or two or three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form) (polyacids). Useful (poly)acids also comprise at least one -OH group, such as from one to three or from two to three -OH groups, for example one, two, or three -OH groups. Preferably, the (poly)acids comprise in total from 2 to 8 or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and from two to three -OH groups, and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably saturated and linear. In some preferred embodiments, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise in total from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, from one to three -OH groups, and from two to three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form). Unless stated otherwise, as used herein the term “(poly)acid” includes both monoacids and polyacids.

[0092] Non-limiting examples of monocarboxylic acids that can be chosen include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lactic acid and / or a salt thereof.

[0093] Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids that can be chosen include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the hair compositions may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.

[0094] Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1 ,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of citric acid and / or a salt thereof.

[0095] In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) may be chosen from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof. In particularly preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids are chosen from a-hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, or citric acid, and their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts. It may in some embodiments be particularly advantageous to choose citric acid, lactic acid, and / or tartaric acid and / or their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; and preferably citric acid and / or its salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.

[0096] The total amount of carboxylic acid(s) may range from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition. For example, in some embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 1 % to about 15%, such as about about 1 % to about 12%, about 1 % to about 10%, about 1 % to about 9%, about 1 % to about 8%, about 1 % to about 7%, about 1 % to about 6%, about 1 % to about 5.5%, about 1 % to about 5%, about 1 % to about 4.5%, about 1 % to about 4%, about 1 % to about 3.5%, about 1 % to about 3%, about 1 % to about 2.5%, about 1 % to about 2%, about 1 % to about 1.5%, about 1 .5% to about 15%, about 1.5% to about 12%, about 1 .5% to about 10%, about 1 .5% to about 9%, about 1.5% to about 8%, about 1.5% to about 7%, about 1.5% to about 6%, about 1.5% to about 5.5%, about 1.5% to about 5%, about 1.5% to about 4.5%, about 1.5% to about 4%, about 1 .5% to about 3.5%, about 1 .5% to about 3%, about 1.5% to about 2.5%, about 1 .5% to about 2%, about 2% to about 15%, about 2% to about 12%, about 2% to about 10%, about 2% to about 9%, about 2% to about 8%, about 2% to about 7%, about 2% to about 6%, about 2% to about 5.5%, about 2% to about 5%, about 2% to about 4.5%, about 2% to about 4%, about 2% to about 3.5%, about 2% to about 3%, about 2% to about 2.5%, about 2.5% to about 15%, about 2.5% to about 12%, about 2.5% to about 10%, about 2.5% to about 9%, about 2.5% to about 8%, about 2.5% to about 7%, about 2.5% to about 6%, about 2.5% to about 5.5%, about 2.5% to about 5%, about 2.5% to about 4.5%, about 2.5% to about 4%, about 2.5% to about 3.5%, about 2.5% to about 3%, about 3% to about 15%, about 3% to about 12%, about 3% to about 10%, about 3% to about 9%, about 3% to about 8%, about 3% to about 7%, about 3% to about 6%, about 3% to about 5.5%, about 3% to about 5%, about 3% to about 4.5%, about 3% to about 4%, about 3% to about 3.5%, about 3.5% to about 15%, about 3.5% to about 12%, about 3.5% to about 10%, about 3.5% to about 9%, about 3.5% to about 8%, about 3.5% to about 7%, about 3.5% to about 6%, about 3.5% to about 5.5%, about 3.5% to about 5%, about 3.5% to about 4.5%, about 3.5% to about 4%, about 4% to about 15%, about 4% to about 12%, about 4% to about 10%, about 4% to about 9%, about 4% to about 8%, about 4% to about 7%, about 4% to about 6%, about 4% to about 5.5%, about 4% to about 5%, about 4% to about 4.5%, about 4.5% to about 15%, about 4.5% to about 12%, about 4.5% to about 10%, about 4.5% to about 9%, about 4.5% to about 8%, about 4.5% to about 7%, about 4.5% to about 6%, about 4.5% to about 5.5%, about 4.5% to about 5%, about 5% to about 15%, about 5% to about 12%, about 5% to about 10%, about 5% to about 9%, about 5% to about 8%, about 5% to about 7%, about 5% to about 6.5%, about 5% to about 6%, about 5% to about 5.5%, about 5.5% to about 15%, about 5.5% to about 12%, about 5.5% to about 10%, about 5.5% to about 9%, about 5.5% to about 8%, about 5.5% to about 7%, about 5.5% to about 6.5%, about 5.5% to about 6%, about 6% to about 15%, about 6% to about 12%, about 6% to about 10%, about 6% to about 9%, about 6% to about 8%, about 6% to about 7%, or about 6% to about 6.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition.

[0097] In preferred embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acid(s) ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, about 4.5% to about 8%, about 5% to about 7%, about 5.5% to about 6.5%, about 5.7% to about 6.3%, or about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition. For example, in some preferred embodiments, the hair composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salts thereof, or combinations thereof, and has a total amount of carboxylic acids and salts ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, preferably from about 4.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably still from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, and most preferably from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition.

[0098] It may be advantageous in some embodiments to choose amounts of amino acids and carboxylic acids such that the hair composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to the total amount of carboxylic acids of greater than about 0.75. For example, in various embodiments, the hair composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to the total amount of carboxylic acids of greater than about 0.8, such as greater than about 0.9, greater than about 1 , greater than about 1.1 , greater than about 1.2, greater than about 1.3, greater than about 1.4, or greater than about 1 .5. In some embodiments, the hair composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to the total amount of carboxylic acids ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, such as from about 0.8 to about 1.5, from about 0.8 to about 1.35, or from about 0.8 to about 1.2. In some preferred embodiments, the hair composition comprises arginine and at least one carboxylic acid chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salts thereof, or combinations thereof, and has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof to the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.35, and most preferably from about 0.8 to about 1 .2.

[0099] Solvents Hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the present invention comprise at least one solvent. In various embodiments, solvents may be chosen from water, non-aqueous solvents, or a combination thereof.

[0100] In preferred embodiments, the solvent includes water. In certain embodiments, the hair composition comprises from about 50% to about 98% of water, by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition. In certain embodiments, the hair composition comprises water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 95% water by weight, such as from about 50% to about 90%, about 55% to about 90%, about 60% to about 90%, or about 60% to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition.

[0101] In further embodiments, the solvent may include at least one nonaqueous solvent. Exemplary and non-limiting non-aqueous solvents that can be used include, for example, glycerin, C1-4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, laminar lipid materials, or combinations thereof. The non-aqueous solvent may be chosen from organic solvents, for example, monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.

[0102] Preferably, the hair compositions comprise at least one polyol. The polyols can be chosen from diols and triols. In other embodiments, the polyols can be chosen from C2-C16 polyols, such as C2-C12 polyols, C2-C8 polyols, or C3-C8 polyols. In various embodiments, the polyols that can be used are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted polyols. Thus, in various embodiments, one or more polyols can be chosen from C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8, or C3- Cs diols, or C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8, or C3-C8 triols, any of which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.

[0103] By way of non-limiting example, polyols such as isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol may be chosen. In some embodiments, the polyols are chosen from propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1 ,2,6- hexanetriol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1 ,3- hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1 ,2-hexanediol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1 ,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethy 1-1 ,3- propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5- dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1 ,2-diol, 2-ethyl-1 ,3-hexanediol, 4-methyl-1 ,2- pentanediol, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the polyols are chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, and combinations of two or more thereof. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the solvent comprises at least one polyol chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, glycerin, or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least certain preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more C2-C16 diols and / or C2-C16 triols, for example C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols. In other preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more glycols, for example propylene glycol and / or dipropylene glycol, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dipropylene glycol.

[0104] If present, the total amount of the non-aqueous solvents in the hair composition may range from about 0.1 % to about 20%, such as from about 1 % to about 20%, from about 1 .5% to about 15%, or from about 2% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition. In some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably chosen from polyols. In some embodiments, the hair composition comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, wherein the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 0.5% to about 18%, preferably from about 1 % to about 15%, more preferably from about 1 .5% to about 12%, more preferably still from about 2% to about 11 %, and most preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition, and optionally further wherein the non-aqueous solvent comprises at least one solvent chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, or mixtures of two or more thereof, preferably chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a mixture of two or more thereof.

[0105] Film Formers

[0106] Optionally, hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the present invention may comprise at least one film former. In a preferred embodiment, hair compositions according to the disclosure include at least one film former. As used herein, the terms “film former,” “film-forming agent,” “film-forming polymer,” and variations thereof, mean an agent or polymer capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a substantially continuous film that adheres to a support, and especially to keratin materials such as hair.

[0107] Among film formers that may be used, mention may be made of, for example, anionic compounds or polymers, non-ionic compounds or polymers, amphoteric compounds or polymers, zwitterionic compounds or polymers, cationic compounds or polymers, proteins, viscosity modifiers, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyacrylate copolymers, polymethacrylate copolymers, polyamides, polyaminoamides, polyesters, polysaccharides, polyacrylamides, starches, gums, or combinations of two or more of the foregoing.

[0108] For example, in various embodiments, the film former(s) may be chosen from anionic polymers. Without limitation, anionic film forming polymers that can be used include polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, or phosphoric acid and have a number-average molecular weight of ranging from about 500 to about 5,000,000.

[0109] By way of non-limiting example, anionicfilm forming polymers comprising carboxylic groups which may be used include: (A) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or salts thereof, such as copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked, copolymers of acrylic acid and of C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, of acrylic acid and of C1-C20 alkyl methacrylate, for example lauryl methacrylate, copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate, or copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate; (B) crotonic acid copolymers, such as those comprising vinyl acetate or propionate units in their chain and optionally other monomers such as allyl esters or methallyl esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon- based chain, such as those containing at least 5 carbon atoms, it being possible for these polymers optionally to be grafted or crosslinked, or alternatively another vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester monomer of an a- or 0-cyclic carboxylic acid; and (C) copolymers of monounsaturated C4-C8 carboxylic acids or anhydrides including (i) copolymers comprising (a) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides, and (b) at least one monomer chosen from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated, or (ii) copolymers comprising (a) one or more maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydride units, and (b) one or more monomers chosen from allyl or methallyl esters optionally comprising one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, a-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone groups in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated.

[0110] In various embodiments, the cationic film forming polymers that can be used include polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto and having a molecular weight of ranging from about 500 to about 5,000,000 and preferably ranging from about 1000 to about 3,000,000.

[0111] For example, the cationic film-forming polymer may be chosen from: (A) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides, such as (i) quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat® by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat® 734 or Gafquat® 755 or Gafquat® 755N (INCI name Polyquaternium-11 ), or alternatively the products known as Copolymer® 845, 958 and 937 sold by ISP (INCI name VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer), (ii) fatty-chain polymers containing a vinylpyrrolidone unit, such as the products sold under the name Styleze® W20L and Styleze® W10 by the company ISP (INCI name Polyquaternium-55), (iii) dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate I vinylcaprolactam I vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the products sold under the names Advantage HC 37 or Gaffix® VC 713 by the company ISP (INCI name Vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer), or (iv) quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat® HS 100 by the company ISP (name Polyquaternium-28); (B) cationic guar gum derivatives, preferably containing quaternary ammonium, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups, for example those sold under the trade names Jaguar® C13 S, Jaguar® C 15, and Jaguar® C 17 by the company Rhodia (INCI name Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride); (C) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole; mention may be made, for example, of vinylpyrrolidone I methylvinylimidazolium chloride copolymers, such as the products sold by the company BASF under the names Luviquat® FC550 or FC370, Luviquat® Excellence and Luviquat® Style (INCI name Polyquaternium-16), or vinylpyrrolidone I vinylimidazolium methosulfate I vinylcaprolactam terpolymers, such as the product Luviquat® Hold sold by the company BASF (INCI name Polyquaternium-46); (D) chitosans or salts thereof; the salts that can be used are, in particular, chitosan acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate, such as chitosan pyrrolidonecarboxylate sold under the name Kytamer® PC by the company Amerchol (INCI name Chitosan PCA); and (E) cationic cellulose derivatives such as copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl-ammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt, e.g. the products sold under the name Celquat® L 200 and Celquat® H 100 by the company Akzo Nobel (INCI name Polyquaternium-4).

[0112] Exemplary amphoteric film-forming polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be selected from polymers comprising units B and C distributed statistically in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acid monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or alternatively B and C may denote groups derived from carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine zwitterionic monomers, or B and C can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon-based group, or alternatively B and C form part of a chain of a polymer comprising an a,p-dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.

[0113] For example, the amphoteric film-forming polymer may be chosen from: (A) copolymers containing acidic vinyl units and basic vinyl units, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, a-chloroacrylic acid, and of a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide; (B) polymers comprising units deriving from (i) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with an alkyl group (e.g. N-ethylacrylamide, N-fe / Y-butylacrylamide, N-te / Y-octylacrylamide, N- octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide, or the corresponding methacrylamides), (ii) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups (e.g. acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, or fumaric acid or alkyl monoesters of maleic or fumaric acid or anhydride having 1 to 4 carbon atoms), and (iii) at least one basic comonomer such as esters containing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate (e.g. aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N’-dimethylaminoethyl or N-tert- butylaminoethyl methacrylates); (C) polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethyl chitosan or N-carboxybutyl chitosan, for instance the product sold under the name Chitoglycan by the company Sinerga SPA (INCI name Carboxymethyl chitosan); and (D) (Ci-C5)alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N,N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semiesterification with an N,N- dialkylaminoalkanol.

[0114] In preferred embodiments, the hair compositions comprise at least one non-ionic film forming polymer. By way of non-limiting example, non-ionic film-forming polymers may be chosen from polyalkyloxazolines; vinyl acetate homopolymers; vinyl acetate copolymers, for instance copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester; copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example of dibutyl maleate; homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters, for instance copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates, such as the products provided by the company Rohm GmbH under the name Eudragit® NE 30 D (INCI name Acrylates copolymer); copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a non-ionic monomer, chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates; styrene homopolymers; styrene copolymers, for instance copolymers of styrene, of alkyl acrylate and of alkyl methacrylate; copolymers of styrene and of butadiene, or copolymers of styrene, of butadiene and of vinylpyridine; polyamides; vinyllactam homopolymers, such as the vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers sold, for example, under the names Luviskol® K30 powder by the company BASF or PVP K30L or K60 solution or K90 by the company ISP, or such as the polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol® Plus by the company BASF, polyvinylpyrrolidone (INCI name PVP); vinyllactam copolymers, such as a poly(vinylpyrrolidone / vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by the company BASF, poly(vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate) copolymers, such as those sold under the name PVPA / A® S630L, E735, E635 and W735 by the company ISP, Luviskol® VA 73, VA 64 and VA 37 by the company BASF (INCI name VPA / A copolymer); and vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole terpolymers, for instance the product sold under the name Luviset® Clear by the company BASF (INCI name VP / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole copolymer).

[0115] Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides that can be chosen include oxidized inulins, celluloses, starches, guar gums, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, alginate gums, agar-agar gums, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, chitosan, gums arabic, xyloses and tragacanth gums, and derivatives thereof, cellobiose, maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin, heparin and hyaluronic acid, or mixtures thereof. For example, gums that may be chosen include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, gum Arabic, hydroxypropyl guar, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, karaya gum, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, or any mixtures thereof.

[0116] Further non-limiting examples of polymers that can be used include noncellulose cationic polysaccharides, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. Suitable cationic guar gum derivatives include guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, available commercially for example as JAGUAR C13S. Other suitable materials include that known as JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17, and JAGUAR C16 which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups. Guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, may also be available commercially for example as N-HANCE CG13 from the company Ashland. Also suitable is hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, commercially available as JAGUAR 162.

[0117] In various embodiments, the film former(s) may be chosen from PVM / MA (Poly(methyl vinyl ether-alt-maleic acid) (e.g., sold under the name Gantrez®), carrageenan, gum Arabic, oxidized inulin, alginate, xanthan gum, xylan, chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polysilicone 8, polydimethylsiloxane, dimethylsiloxane / 3- thiopropyl methyl siloxane copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylacetate copolymer, polyvinylacetate, starch, cellulose, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-11 , acrylates / steareth-2 methacrylate crosspolymer, vinylacetate / vinyl neodecanoate copolymer, polyester-5, cetyl ethylhexanoate, vinyl acetate, crotonate / vinyl neodecanoate copolymer, 2-acryamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS)Zacrylic acid (AA) copolymer, AMPS / AA / acryl methacrylate copolymer, polyacrylamide, CI SCI 4 isoparaffin, laureth-7, octylacrylamide, acrylate / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, or any mixture thereof.

[0118] The total amount of the film former present may vary, but typically ranges from about 0.1 % to about 20%, such as from about 0.25% to about 10%, about 0.5% to about 8%, about 0.75% to about 5%, or about 0.75% to about 3%, based on the total weight of the hair composition. For example, the total amount of film former may range from about 0.01 % to about 10%, about 0.01 % to about 9%, about 0.01 % to about 8%, about 0.01 % to about 7%, about 0.01 % to about 6%, about 0.01 % to about 5%, about 0.01 % to about 4%, about 0.01 % to about 3%, about 0.01 % to about 2%, about 0.01 % to about 1 %, about 0.1 % to about 10%, about 0.1 % to about 9%, about 0.1 % to about 8%, about 0.1 % to about 7%, about 0.1 % to about 6%, about 0.1 % to about 5%, about 0.1 % to about 4%, about 0.1 % to about 3%, about 0.1 % to about 2%, about 0.1 % to about 1 %, about 0.25% to about 10%, about 0.25% to about 9%, about 0.25% to about 8%, about 0.25% to about 7%, about 0.25% to about 6%, about 0.25% to about 5%, about 0.25% to about 4%, about 0.25% to about 3%, about 0.25% to about 2%, about 0.25% to about 1.5%, about 0.25% to about 1 %, or about 0.25% to about 0.75%, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the hair composition. In certain embodiments, the at least one film forming polymer may be present in an amount of ranging from about 0.1 % to about 1 %, such as about 0.2% to about 0.8%, about 0.3% to about 0.7%, about 0.4% to about 0.6%, or about 0.5%, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the hair composition.

[0119] Surfactants

[0120] Hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one surfactant. For example, the hair compositions may comprise one or more cationic surfactants and / or amphoteric surfactants, and in some embodiments the hair compositions may comprise mixtures of surfactants having the same or different ionicities.

[0121] Although the hair compositions may optionally include one or more anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants, in at least some embodiments, the hair compositions are free or substantially free of anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants. For example, in some embodiments the hair compositions comprise less than about 3%, such as less than about 2.5%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.75%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1.25%, less than about 1 %, less than about 0.75%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.25%, less than about 0.2%, less than about 0.1 %, less than about 0.05%, less than about 0.01 %, or less than about 0.001 % of anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants.

[0122] In at least some embodiments, the hair compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant. The term “cationic surfactant” means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the hair composition(s) according to the disclosure. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functions that are cationizable in the hair composition according to the disclosure. Non-limiting examples of useful cationic surfactants include alkylamidoamines and esterquats, such as, for example, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinolamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmamidopropyl dimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride (Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium POE (10) oletyl ether phosphate, diethanolammonium POE (3)oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumbentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphen bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCI, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1 , procainehydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkoniumhectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethyl propylenediamine dihydrofluoride, tallowtrimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethyl ammonium bromide, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the hair composition comprises at least one alkylamidoamine, for example brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine. In preferred embodiments, the hair compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant chosen from brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more thereof.

[0123] If present, the total amount of cationic surfactants may range up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1 %, or up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition. For example, the total amount of cationic surfactants may range from about 0.001 % to about 10%, from about 0.01 % to about 8%, from about 0.1 % to about 6%, or from about 0.5% to about 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition. In at least some preferred embodiments, the hair compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant, and have a total amount of cationic surfactants ranging from about 0.25% to about 8%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6%, and most preferably from about 1 % to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition.

[0124] In at least some embodiments, the hair compositions comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant. Non-limiting examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines where the aliphatic radical can be straight or branched chain and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate. Exemplary amphoteric surfactants include sodium cocam inopropionate, sodium cocam inodipropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium cornamphopropionate, sodium lauram inopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium cornamphopropionate, sodium lauriminodipropionate, ammonium cocam inopropionate, ammonium cocam inodipropionate, ammonium cocoamphoacetate, ammonium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium cocoamphopropionate, ammonium cornamphopropionate, ammonium lauraminopropionate, ammonium lauroamphoacetate, ammonium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium lauroamphopropionate, ammonium cornamphopropionate, ammonium lauriminodipropionate, triethanonlamine cocam inopropionate, triethanonlamine cocam inodipropionate, triethanonlamine cocoamphoacetate, triethanonlamine cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanonlamine cocoamphopropionate, triethanonlamine cornamphopropionate, triethanonlamine lauraminopropionate, triethanonlamine lauroamphoacetate, triethanonlamine lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanonlamine lauroamphopropionate, triethanonlamine cornamphopropionate, triethanonlamine lauriminodipropionate, cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphoadipropionate, disodium capryloam phodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodipriopionate, disodium cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropyl- sulfonate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium dicarboxyethylcocopropylenediamine, disodium laureth-5 carboxyam phodiacetate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium PPG-2-isodecethyl-7 carboxyam phodiacetate, lauraminopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, lauryl aminopropylglycine, and lauryl diethylenediaminoglycine.

[0125] Betaine surfactants may also be used. For example, coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl betaine, stearyl bis-(2- hydroxypropyl) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma-carboxypropyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, coco dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, stearyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl sulfoethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine, or cocam idopropyl betaine may be chosen.

[0126] If present, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may range up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1 %, or up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition. For example, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may range from about 0.001 % to about 6%, from about 0.01 % to about 4%, from about 0.1 % to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition. In at least some embodiments, the hair compositions are free or substantially free of amphoteric surfactants.

[0127] In some preferred embodiments, the surfactant does not include behentrimonium chloride. In some preferred embodiments, the surfactant comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more alkylamidoamines, for example brassicam idopropyl dimethylamine.

[0128] Fatty Compounds

[0129] Optionally, hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the present invention may include at least one fatty compound. In certain embodiments, the at least one fatty compound may be chosen from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids, esters of fatty alcohols, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal, silicone and non-silicone oils, silicone and non-silicone waxes, or combinations of any two or more thereof.

[0130] In some embodiments, hair compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound chosen from volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, which may optionally be amino functionalized. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils that can be used include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone- 11 , phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. For example, the hair composition may comprise at least one silicone chosen from amodimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG- 8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-3 / 10 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-4 / 12 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG- 17 / 18 Dimethicone, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG- 10 Phosphate, or a mixture of two or more thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the hair compositions comprise a silicone oil component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dimethicone, amodimethicone, or a mixture thereof.

[0131] As further examples, the silicone oil may be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyl-diphenyl)trisiloxanes, or (2-phenylethyl)trimethyl- siloxysilicates.

[0132] In some embodiments, hair compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound chosen from fatty alcohols. In certain embodiments, “fatty alcohol” refers to any alcohol with a carbon chain of Cs or greater, such as, for example, Cs or greater, C10 or greater, or C12 or greater, such as from 6 to 30 carbon atoms or from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated or non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.

[0133] By way of example, fatty alcohols may be chosen from arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the hair compositions comprise a fatty alcohol component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

[0134] Useful and non-limiting fatty acids may be straight or branched chain acids and / or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be chosen from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, or combinations thereof.

[0135] In some embodiments, fatty acid esters or fatty alcohol esters may be chosen. For example, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1 - C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters more particularly being greater than or equal to 10 may be used. In other embodiments, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra-, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. As non-limiting examples, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, (iso)stearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, methyl acetyl ricinoleate, myristyl stearate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, and / or polyethylene glycol distearates may be chosen. In a preferred embodiment, the hair composition comprises at least one fatty acid ester and / or fatty alcohol ester, for example pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.

[0136] In some embodiments, hair compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one wax. Non-limiting examples of waxes that can be used include beeswax, hydrogenated alkyl olive esters, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fibre wax or sugar cane wax, rice wax, rice bran wax. montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, palm kernel glycerides / hydrogenated palm glycerides, palm butter, sumac wax, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax, theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, siliconyl candellila wax, Chinese wax, cetyl palmitate, lanolin, shellac, spermaceti, cetyl esters, hydrogenated castor wax; triglyceride esters such as tribehenin (glyceryl tribehenate); synthetic waxes such as those of the hydrocarbon type and polyethylene waxes obtained from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, polypropylene waxes, or mixtures of two or more of any of these waxes. In some preferred embodiments, the hair compositions comprise a wax component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl esters.

[0137] In some embodiments, the hair composition comprises one or more fatty compounds chosen from oils of animal, vegetable, or mineral origin (e.g. lanolin, squalene, fish oil, perhydrosqualene, mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor seed oil, jojoba seed oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, cucumber oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, calophyllum oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, candlenut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, ucuuba butter, or shea butter), linear or branched hydrocarbons (e.g. polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene, or also linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes which are optionally volatile, such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane, or isohexadecane), mono- and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols (e.g. mono- and polyesters of hydroxy acids and of fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and of fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, dipentaerythrityl C5-C9 esters, trimethylolpropane polyesters, propylene glycol polyesters, or polyesters of hydrogenated castor oil), perfluorinated and / or organofluorinated oils, fluorosilicone oils, or mixtures of two or more thereof. Nonlimiting examples of fatty acids that may be used include optionally branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid, or mixtures of two or more thereof.

[0138] In some preferred embodiments, the fatty compound does not include silicones. In some preferred embodiments, the hair compositions comprise at least one fatty alcohol, at least one fatty acid, at least one natural wax, at least one vegetable oil / butter, at least one fatty acid ester, and / or at least one fatty alcohol ester. In some preferred embodiments, the fatty compound comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of ucuuba butter, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, lauric acid, cetearyl alcohol, and / or cetyl esters.

[0139] If present, the total amount of fatty compounds in the hair composition may range from about 0.1 % to about 20%, such as from about 1 % to about 20%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, or from about 5% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition. In some preferred embodiments, the hair compositions comprise at least one fatty compound chosen from silicone oils, fatty alcohols, waxes, or combinations thereof, where the total amount of fatty compounds in the hair composition ranges from about 1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 15%, more preferably from about 3% to about 12%, and most preferably from about 5% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition.

[0140] Thickening Agents

[0141] Hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the present invention optionally comprise at least one thickening agent. Useful thickening agents include, but are not limited to, semisynthetic polymers, such as semisynthetic cellulose derivatives, synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers, and acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates copolymer, polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEI-10), naturally occurring polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan, vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, petroleum jelly, waxes, particulate associate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide, and microcrystalline cellulose, celluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, and guars such as hydroxypropyl guar.

[0142] In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be chosen from associative thickening polymers such as anionic associative polymers, amphoteric associative polymers, cationic associative polymers, or nonionic associative polymers. A non-limiting example of an amphoteric associative polymer is acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, and non-limiting examples of anionic associative polymers include acrylates copolymer and acrylates crosspolymer-4.

[0143] If present, the total amount of thickening agents may range from about 0.01 % to about 8%, such as from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.1 % to about 4%, from about 0.2% to about 3%, or from about 0.3% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition.

[0144] In a preferred embodiment, the hair composition comprises cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, preferably in an amount ranging from about 0.01 % to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 3%, more preferably still from about 0.1 % to about 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition. Direct Dyes

[0145] Optionally, hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure comprise one or more direct dyes. Direct dyes, which are different than oxidation dyes, diffuse superficially onto the hair fibers.

[0146] Direct dyes that can be chosen include natural and synthetic direct dyes, which may be cationic, anionic, or nonionic. Useful examples of direct dyes include azo direct dyes, (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines, and styryls, carbonyl dyes, azine dyes, nitro(hetero)aryl dyes, tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes, porphyrin dyes, phthalocyanine dyes, xanthene direct dyes, triarylmethane dyes, natural direct dyes, and combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the direct dyes are chosen from those that comprise at least one halogenated aromatic ring.

[0147] In some embodiments, direct dyes are selected from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes are also called “acidic” direct dyes due to their affinity with alkaline substances. Anionic direct dyes may be selected from acid nitrate direct dyes, acid azo dyes, acid azinic dyes, acid triarylmethanic dyes, acid indoaminic dyes, acid anthraquinone dyes, indigoids, natural acid dyes, or combinations of two or more thereof.

[0148] Non-limiting examples of anionic direct dyes include Acid Red 1 , Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41 , Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1 , Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3, Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1 , Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1 , Food Black 2, Food yellow 3 or sunset yellow, Acid Red 111 , Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38, or combinations of two or more thereof. As further examples, azo anionic dyes such as Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and Acid Yellow 17; anthraquinone dyes such as Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251 , Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41 , Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3, Purple EXT No. 2, and Acid Black 48; anthraquinone dyes such as Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251 , Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41 , Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3, Purple EXT No. 2, and Acid Black 48; triarylmethane dyes such as Acid Blue

[0149] 1 , Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Violet 49, Acid green 3, Acid green 5, and Acid Green 50; dyes derived from xanthene such as Acid Yellow 73, Acid Red 51 , Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, and Acid Violet 9; dyes derived from indole such as Acid Blue 74; and dyes derived from quinoline such as Acid Yellow

[0150] 2, Acid Yellow 3, and Acid Yellow 5, or combinations of two or more thereof, may be chosen.

[0151] Nonlimiting examples of cationic direct dyes, also called “basic” direct dyes, include Basic Red 51 , Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 , Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41 , Basic Blue 99, Basic Violet 1 , Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, or combinations of two or more thereof.

[0152] Among the natural direct dyes, non-limiting mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, or combinations of two or more thereof. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts may also be used.

[0153] According to some embodiments, the ionic direct dye(s) are chosen from blue or violet dyes such as Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251 , Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43 (also called EXT violet No. 2), Acid Blue 1 , Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 9, Acid Blue 74, Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41 , Basic Blue 99, Basic Violet 1 , Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably Ext. Violet 2, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 9 and Basic Violet 2, more preferentially Ext. Violet 2, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 9, or combinations of two or more thereof.

[0154] If present, the total amount of direct dyes may range from about 0.001 % to about 10%, such as from about 0.001 % to about 5%, from about 0.001 % to about 3%, from about 0.001 % to about 2%, from about 0.001 % to about 1 %, from about 0.005% to about 5%, from about 0.005% to about 3%, from about 0.005% to about 2%, from about 0.005% to about 1 %, from about 0.01 % to about 5%, from about 0.01 % to about 3%, from about 0.01 % to about 2%, or from about 0.01 % to about 1 %, by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition.

[0155] Auxiliary Components

[0156] Hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure may optionally include one or more auxiliary components. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, ceramides, botanical extracts, proteins, protein hydrolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescent agents, buffers, sequestering agents, and the like.

[0157] The total amount of auxiliary components, if present, typically ranges from about 0.01 % to about 10% based on the total weight of the hair composition. For example, in some embodiments the individual amounts of each component or the total amount of components may range from about 0.1 % to about 10%, about 0.1 % to about 8%, about 0.1 % to about 5%, about 0.1 % to about 4%, about 0.1 % to about 3%, about 0.1 % to about 2%, about 1 % to about 10%, about 1 % to about 8%, about 1 % to about 5%, about 1 % to about 4%, about 1 % to about 3%, or about 1 % to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair composition.

[0158] Hair compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure typically have a pH of less than or equal to 7, such as less than or equal to about 6, less than or equal to about 5, less than or equal to about 4.5, or less than or equal to about 4. For example, the hair compositions may have a pH ranging from about 1 to about 7, such as from about 2 to about 6, from about 2.5 to about 5.5, from about 2.5 to about 5, from about 2.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3 to about 4. In some embodiments, the pH of the composition may be, for example, about 3, about 3.25, about 3.5, about 3.75, or about 4, including all ranges and subranges thereof.

[0159] The hair compositions may be in any suitable form. For example, suitable hair compositions may be in the form of a liquid, a gel, a gel cream, a high-, medium- or low-density cream, a serum, a lotion, etc.

[0160] II. METHODS

[0161] The present invention relates to methods of treating hair, particularly curly or wavy hair. The methods of treating hair may be methods of restoring or enhancing curl shape and / or definition. Surprisingly, the curl shape and / or definition obtained with hair compositions according to the disclosure may be long-lasting. For example, the curl shape and / or definition may last through one or more, for example two or more, or even three or more, hair washing cycles. The method of the present invention also relates to treating keratin fibers with a hair composition according to the invention in order to limit water uptake into the keratin fibers, maintain moisture equilibrium of the keratin fibers, and / or reduce frizz of the hair. The methods also improve elasticity of the treated hair.

[0162] The method of the present invention further treats hair, for example for building or rebuilding broken bonds in the hair fiber. Surprisingly, hair treated according to the disclosure exhibits reduced signs of damage including greater strength and / or decreased elasticity, in particular hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical treatments such as bleaching, dyeing, permanent waving, straightening, relaxing, etc., even when compared to hair treated with other products that are asserted to rebuild bonds in the hair. While not intending to be bound by theory, it is believed that the enhanced bond building effect is due to the unexpectedly synergistic effects of the combination of amino acids, osmolytes, and optionally carboxylic acids, which has not previously been known.

[0163] The method of the present invention also relates to treating hair, for example for limiting uptake of minerals into hair fibers, and / or removing minerals from hair fibers. Without intending to be bound by theory, it is believed that the hair compositions described herein work in an entirely different and novel manner compared to known chelating or complexing agents which typically attach themselves to minerals. Surprisingly, hair treated according to the invention exhibits increased shine and reduced signs of damage including greater strength and / or decreased elasticity, in particular hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical treatments such as bleaching, dyeing, permanent waving, straightening, relaxing, etc., even when compared to hair treated with other products that are asserted to repair similarly damaged hair.

[0164] The methods of the present invention treat the hair and reduce or prevent hair damage, protect hair from damage, restore hair fiber moisture equilibrium, provide hair fiber strength, improve hair fiber elasticity, and / or maintain hair fiber moisture equilibrium, strength, and / or elasticity. In some embodiments, the methods of the disclosure treat hair and prevent hair damage from becoming too great to repair, i.e. prevent irreversible hair damage.

[0165] The methods of the present invention comprise applying a hair composition according to the disclosure (e.g. a “curl-enhancing composition”) onto the hair, optionally leaving the hair composition on the hair for a period of time (“processing time,” “resting period,” or “leave-in period”), and optionally rinsing the composition from the hair. The methods may optionally comprise repeating the treatment at least one time, such as at least two times, at least three times, at least four times, at least five times, etc., or as desired in order to achieve the desired benefit, e.g., enhance or restore curl definition, remove minerals from hair fibers, limiting mineral uptake of hair fibers, rebuilding bonds, balance or limit water uptake into the fibers, and / or to treat the hair.

[0166] The leave-in period may last for a period of time deemed appropriate to allow the active agents to provide benefits to the hair, such as about 30 seconds, about 1 minute, about 2 minutes, about 5 minutes, about 10 minutes, about 15 minutes, about 20 minutes, about 30 minutes, about 45 minutes, about 1 hour, about 2 hours, about 4 hours, about 6 hours, about 8 hours, about 10 hours, about 12 hours, about 16 hours, about 20 hours, about 24 hours, etc., or may range from a period of time using any of the foregoing as upper and lower limits. By way of non-limiting example, the leave-in period may range from about 2 minutes to about 4 hours, from about 5 minutes to about 2 hours, from about 10 minutes to about 1.5 hours, from about 20 minutes to about 1 hour, from about 1 hour to about 12 hours, from about 2 hours to about 10 hours, from about 4 hours to about 8 hours, from about 8 hours to about 24 hours, from about 8 hours to about 12 hours, etc. For example, a leave-in time may be overnight, or may be until the hair is next rinsed or shampooed in the user’s ordinary course of hygiene.

[0167] Although not required, methods of using hair compositions according to the invention may also include a step of heating the hair to which the hair composition has been applied, for example during the resting period while the composition is on the hair. For example, a blow dryer, hood dryer, etc., may be used.

[0168] At least in some embodiments, hair that can be treated according to the methods described may be hair that has been previously bleached, dyed, straightened, relaxed, etc. It will be understood that hair which is treated according to various methods described herein can be hair that was previously subjected to such chemical treatments and is therefore in need of repair, curl reshaping, curl enhancing, or the like. Thus, the methods may occur within any period of time after such chemical treatment that the repair, curl reshaping, curl enhancing, etc., benefits are desired. For example, the methods may occur within six months of a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing, etc., treatment, such as within five months, within four months, within three months, within two months, within one month, within three weeks, within two weeks, within one week, within five days, within four days, within three days, within two days, within one day, within 12 hours, within 8 hours, within 6 hours, within 4 hours, within 2 hours, or within 1 hour after such treatment. The time period within which the methods according to the disclosure are contemplated to be implemented is not limited.

[0169] In an exemplary embodiment, a hair composition that can be used in methods according to the present invention may be applied to hair, for example to reshape or enhance curls or waves, to improve the general health and appearance of the curls or waves, to improve the elasticity of the hair fibers, to prevent or reduce damage to the hair fibers, to limit water uptake into the hair fibers, to limit mineral uptake into the hair fibers, to maintain moisture equilibrium of the hair fibers, to reduce frizz of the hair, to build bonds in hair or to limit uptake of minerals into hair fibers, and / or to remove minerals from hair fibers etc., by applying a hair composition to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the hair composition on the hair for a suitable processing time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then optionally drying and / or styling the hair according to the individual’s normal course.

[0170] In further exemplary embodiments, a hair composition that can be used in methods according to the present invention may be applied to hair before, during, and / or after a chemical hair treatment process. For example, one such routine may include applying a hair composition according to the disclosure to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the hair composition on the hair for a suitable processing time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then substantially immediately thereafter (i.e. within the same chemical hair treatment process), preferably with intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing, or permanent waving hair composition to the hair. Another such routine may include applying a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing, or permanent waving composition to the hair, and substantially immediately thereafter (i.e., within the same chemical hair treatment process), preferably with intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying a hair composition according to the disclosure to the hair. Thus, it is contemplated that compositions according to the disclosure may be incorporated into a chemical hair treatment process, thereby reducing, minimizing, or preventing damage to the hair that would otherwise be expected to result from such harsh chemical treatments. By incorporating such hair compositions into chemical treatment processes, the curl or wave shape or definition can be preserved.

[0171] Surprisingly, hair treated with hair compositions and methods according to the disclosure has less damage than hair not treated with hair compositions and methods according to the disclosure, and correspondingly greater curl retention or recovery. The reduction in damage is particularly notable in hair that has been damaged due to harsh chemical treatments such as bleaching, dyeing, permanent waving, straightening, relaxing, etc., as well as due to repeated styling such as with heat or styling tools. The hair repaired using hair compositions and methods according to the disclosure may have lower elasticity and / or greater tensile strength than hair similarly damaged but not treated according to the disclosure, as well as more defined curls or waves. Therefore, in various embodiments, the disclosure relates to methods of improving the elasticity of the hair fibers, preventing hair damage, and / or reducing or repairing hair damage, in addition to limiting water uptake into the hair fibers, maintaining moisture equilibrium of the hair fibers, and / or reducing frizz of the hair.

[0172] Having described the many embodiments of the present invention in detail, it will be apparent that modifications and variations are possible without departing from the scope of the disclosure defined in the appended claims. Furthermore, it should be appreciated that all examples in the present disclosure, while illustrating many embodiments of the disclosure, are provided as non-limiting examples and are, therefore, not to be taken as limiting the various aspects so illustrated. It is to be understood that all definitions herein are provided for the present disclosure only.

[0173] In this application, the use of the singular includes the plural unless specifically stated otherwise. The singular forms “a,” “an,” “the,” and “at least one” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations. Likewise, the term “a salt thereof” also relates to “salts thereof.” Thus, where the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof,” it indicates that that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, or a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included. The term “and / or” should be understood to include both the conjunctive and the disjunctive. For example, “amino acids and / or salts thereof” means “amino acids and salts thereof” as well as “amino acids or salts thereof,” and expressly covers instances of either.

[0174] As used herein, the term “salts” referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is non-limiting. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, e.g., in an aqueous solution.

[0175] As used herein, the phrases “and mixtures thereof,” “and mixtures of two or more thereof,” “and a mixture thereof,” “and combinations thereof,” “and a combination thereof,” and combinations of two or more thereof,” “and a combination of two or more thereof,” “or mixtures thereof,” “or a mixture thereof,” “or combinations thereof,” “or combinations of two or more thereof,” “or a combination thereof,” and the like are used interchangeably to denote that the listing of components immediately preceding the phrase, such as “A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof” signify that the component(s) may be chosen from A, from B, from C, from D, from A+B, from A+B+C, from A+D, from A+C+D, etc., without limitation on the variations thereof. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any combination thereof.

[0176] For purposes of the present disclosure, it should be noted that to provide a more concise description, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified with the term “about.” It is understood that whether the term “about” is used explicitly or not, every quantity given herein is meant to refer to the actual given value, and it is also meant to refer to the approximation to such given value that would reasonably be inferred based on the ordinary skill in the art, including approximations due to the experimental and / or measurement conditions for such given value, unless otherwise stated.

[0177] All ranges and amounts given herein are intended to include sub-ranges and amounts using any disclosed point as an end point, and all endpoints are intended to be included unless expressly stated otherwise. Thus, a range of “1 % to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%,” is intended to encompass ranges of “1 % to 8%,” “1 % to 5%,” “2% to 10%,” and so on. All numbers, amounts, ranges, etc., are intended to be modified by the term “about,” whether or not expressly stated, unless expressly stated otherwise. Similarly, a range given of “about 1 % to 10%” is intended to have the term “about” modifying both the 1 % and the 10% endpoints. The term “about” is used herein to indicate a difference of up to + / - 10% from the stated number, such as + / - 9%, + / - 8%, + / - 7%, + / - 6%, + / - 5%, + / - 4%, + / - 3%, + / - 2%, or + / - 1 %. Unless expressly stated otherwise, “about” means + / - 5%. Likewise, all endpoints of ranges are understood to be individually disclosed, such that, for example, a range of 1 :2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose a ratio of both 1 :2 and 2:1 .

[0178] As used herein, if a component is described as being present “in an amount up to” a certain amount, it is intended that such component is, in fact, present in the hair composition, i.e. is present in an amount greater than 0%.

[0179] All amounts given herein are relative to the amount of active material, unless otherwise indicated.

[0180] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based upon the total weight of the hair compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.

[0181] As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.

[0182] In this application, the terms “keratin fibers” and “hair” are used interchangeably, without intending to be limiting. A person skilled in the art will understand that keratin fibers include hair, such as hair that grows from the scalp.

[0183] The terms “curls,” “curly hair,” “waves,” or the like, which are used interchangeably herein, refer to any hair including a curl or wave. The degree of curliness of the hair may vary and is not limited. The curl may be natural or unnatural, i.e., formed by chemical treatment or physical treatment of the hair, although preferably the curl is natural.

[0184] As used herein, the phrase “applying a composition onto hair” and variations thereof are intended to mean contacting the hair with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner. It may also mean contacting the hair in an effective amount.

[0185] The term “treating hair” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of hair. The term “treating hair” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting hair with the compositions of the present disclosure.

[0186] As used herein, the terms “limit water uptake”, “reduce water uptake”, “maintain moisture equilibrium” or the like, are intended to mean that the amount of water that the treated hair takes up from the surrounding environment (e.g. atmospheric, contact with water, etc.) is less than for hair not treated according to the disclosure. The reduction in water uptake may be any amount, for example at least 5%, at least 10%, at least 15%, at least 20%, at least 25%, at least 30%, at least 35%, at least 40%, at least 45%, at least 50%, or more. Methods for determining an amount of water uptake in hair fibers are known. While not limiting, one such method includes thermogravimetric analysis.

[0187] As used herein, the terms “limiting mineral uptake of hair fibers”, “removing minerals from hair fibers” and similar language means that hair treated with compositions according to the disclosure have lower amounts of minerals present within the hair fiber compared to hair not treated according to the disclosure. Although the limiting or removing of minerals achieved will vary, it is intended that any amount of decreased mineral content in hair is encompassed within the methods of the disclosure. It is possible to determine the content and amount of minerals present in the hair fiber by various methods known in the art such as various spectroscopy techniques, for example atomic absorption spectrometry, atomic fluorescence spectrometry, etc.

[0188] The use of the term “minerals”, which may also be referred to as “metals” by those skilled in the art, is intended to mean minerals such as calcium, magnesium, copper, iron, zinc, or the like, which are generally not present in natural hair. The term “mineral” encompasses both ionic forms as well as the salt forms, unless stated otherwise.

[0189] As used herein, the terms “reduce frizz”, “frizz reduction”, or the like, are intended to mean that the amount of frizz measured for treated hair is less than for hair not treated according to the disclosure. The reduction in frizz may be any amount, for example at least 5%, at least 10%, at least 15%, at least 20%, at least 25%, at least 30%, at least 35%, at least 40%, at least 45%, at least 50%, or more. Methods for determining frizz in hair are known. While not limiting, one such method includes backlight illumination to determine a ratio of hair fibers that are considered to be part of the hair bulk (high density areas of measurement) and hair fibers that are considered to be frizz or fly-away hair (low density areas of measurement).

[0190] As used herein, the terms “building bonds”, “rebuilding bonds”, “forming bonds”, “bond building”, or the like, are used interchangeably to mean that bonds internal to the hair fiber are formed or reformed after such bonds have been broken. For example, disulfide bonds in the hair fiber are typically broken during chemical treatments such as bleaching, permanent waving, etc., but can be reformed or rebuilt when the hair is treated according to the disclosure. Although the degree of bond building achieved will vary depending on factors such as the degree of damage in the hair being treated, length of treatment, etc., it is intended that any amount of bond building is encompassed within the methods of the disclosure. It is possible to determine whether bonds have been built by various methods known in the art, such as tensile testing, cysteic acid testing, DSC, etc.

[0191] As used herein, the terms “enhancing curls,” “enhancing curl recovery,” “reshaping curls,” “reshaping curly hair,” or the like, are intended to mean that the intensity and / or shape of the curl or wave of the hair that may have been decreased as a result of damage is increased by treatment with hair compositions or methods described herein. An increase in curl or wave can be any increase, for example increased curl shape and / or increased curl definition. It will be understood, however, that an increase in curls provided by hair compositions and methods according to the disclosure is due to the hair compositions and methods restoring curls or waves to hair, rather than providing curls or waves to naturally straight and unpermed hair. As is known, an increase in curl or wave may be observed visually, such as when treated hair appears curlier than the hair before treatment, or the curls or waves appear more defined; may be determined by measuring the length of a lock of hair, where a shorter lock of hair is considered to have greater curl than a longer lock; or may be determined by any other accepted method.

[0192] As used herein, the terms “curl-enhancing composition,” “curl-restoring composition,” or the like refer to a hair composition according to the disclosure. Such hair compositions may restore or enhance curls to any degree, without limitation. However, in at least some embodiments, the degree of curl enhancement may be at least about 10%, at least about 12%, at least about 15%, at least about 18%, at least about 20%, at least about 22%, or at least about 25%, compared to the hair before treatment.

[0193] For purposes of the present disclosure, the terms “vegetable oil” and “vegetable oil / butter” are intended to include both oils and butters (e.g., ucuuba oil and ucuuba butter) unless expressly indicated otherwise.

[0194] Unless otherwise defined for any specific embodiment, the term “substantially free” or “essentially free” as used herein means that there is less than about 5% by weight of a specific material added to a hair composition, based on the total weight of the hair composition. For example, the hair compositions may include less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1 %, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1 %, less than about 0.01 %, less than about 0.001 %, or less than about 0.0001 % of the specified material. As such, it is contemplated that any component described herein for use in the hair treatment hair compositions can be present in the hair compositions in amounts less than about 5%, less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1 %, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1 %, less than about 0.01 %, less than about 0.001 %, or less than about 0.0001 %, and the hair composition will be considered “substantially free” of such material. A hair composition that is “free” of a component is understood to contain none of the specified component. However, it is understood that the terms “free” and “substantially free” refer to the amount of a component added to the hair composition, without including an amount of the component present in the hair composition as a minor component in a raw material. For example, a hair composition that is “free” of waxes may not have wax included as an intended component but may nevertheless contain a pigment that is coated with a wax, as such wax would be considered a minor component of the pigment material and would not be expected to provide benefits to the hair composition that would be expected by including a wax per se as an intended component.

[0195] Unless otherwise expressly stated, it is in no way intended that any method set forth herein be construed as requiring that its steps be performed in a specific order. Accordingly, where a method claim does not expressly recite an order to be followed by its steps or it is not specifically stated in the claims or descriptions that the steps are to be limited to a specific order, it not intended that any particular order be inferred.

[0196] The examples that follow serve to illustrate embodiments of the present disclosure without, however, being limiting in nature. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations can be made in the hair compositions and methods of the invention without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Thus, it is intended that the present disclosure covers the modifications and variations that come within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents.

[0197] EXAMPLES The following Examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory in nature only. In the Examples, amounts are expressed in percentage by weight (wt%) of active materials, relative to the total weight of the hair composition, unless otherwise indicated.

[0198] Example 1 - Compositions

[0199] Compositions 1A-1 B according to the disclosure were prepared as shown in Table 1 .

[0200] TABLE 1

[0201] Compositions 1A and 1 B include a combination of amino acids (arginine), osmolytes (trimethyl glycine), carboxylic acids (citric acid), esters (pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate), surfactants, and fatty compounds.

[0202] Example 2 - Evaluation of Curl Recovery and Cosmetic Benefits

[0203] The following studies were conducted to evaluate the effectiveness of hair compositions according to the disclosure to enhance or recover curls, provide curl definition, and to provide cosmetic benefits to treated hair.

[0204] Example 2.1 - Leave-on Treatment

[0205] Equal amounts of either composition 1A or 1 B were applied to three swatches of curly Caucasian hair. The compositions were left on the hair and the swatches were air dried at room temperature.

[0206] FIG. 2C shows the swatches prior to treatment, and FIGS. 2A-2B show the swatches after treatment with compositions 1 A and 1 B, respectively. As FIGS. 2A- 2C demonstrate, the degree of curl and curl definition restored to the hair with treatment according to the disclosure is significant. In addition, the swatches have significant reduction in frizziness and volume, and increased shine and smoothness.

[0207] Example 2.2 - Rinse-off Treatment

[0208] Equal amounts of composition 1 B were applied to six swatches of previously bleached, curly Caucasian hair. The compositions were rinsed from the hair and the swatches were left to air dry at room temperature.

[0209] FIG. 3A shows images of three swatches bleached according to a standard bleaching protocol at room temperature (27°C) before and after treatment with composition 1 B, and FIG. 3B shows images of three swatches bleached according to an accelerated bleaching protocol at increased temperature (37°C) before and after treatment with composition 1 B. As FIGS. 3A-3B demonstrate, the bleached hair before treatment had lost curl definition, but the degree of curl and curl definition restored to the hair after treatment is significant. In addition, the swatches have noticeable reduction in frizziness and volume, and increased shine and smoothness after treatment.

[0210] Example 2 demonstrates that compositions according to the disclosure surprisingly and unexpectedly restore curls and curl definition to damaged hair and provide cosmetic benefits to treated hair.

[0211] Example 3 - Compositions and Evaluation of Curl Recovery

[0212] Composition 2A according to the disclosure, and comparative composition C1 , were prepared as shown in Table 2.

[0213] TABLE 2

[0214] Compositions 2A and C1 are identical other than the presence of amino acids (arginine), osmolytes (trimethyl glycine), carboxylic acids (citric acid) in composition 2A. The compositions of Table 2 were used to conduct a study of the curl recovery benefits of compositions according to the disclosure.

[0215] Two swatches of curly hair were (TO) analysed using a polarization imaging system that takes successive images of a hair sample illuminated with infrared LED and under several polarization states, using a rotating polarizer (RUMBA, Bossa Nova Technologies, LLC). The images give a modulated intensity on each pixel. The modulation is caused by the birefringence of the hair fiber and contains the angle signature that can be extracted with the system’s software to build an orientation image of the sample. The orientation data can be mapped onto a 2D image to visualize the whole sample. From this orientation data, a coefficient that relates to straightness of the hair can be defined - the straighter the hair fibers in the swatch, the closer to a single angle value the distribution of the orientation will be. The standard deviation of such a distribution is therefore inversely proportional to the perception of straightness. The same process is done for the alignment, where the alignment of a hair swatch is defined as the hair fibers being “locally straight.” Thus, a straightness coefficient is defined on a small scale of the 2D mapping of the orientation, which allows for a straightness coefficient to be obtained on every pixel of the image.

[0216] Next, the swatches were shampooed with a commercially available shampoo, rinsed, and dried. The swatches were then bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleach powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1 :1.5 (bleach powderoxidizing composition) and processed at 27°C for 50 minutes. The swatches were rinsed, shampooed again, rinsed, and dried. The swatches were then subjected to a second bleaching treatment with the same mixture but processed at 27°C for 30 minutes, rinsed, shampooed, rinsed again, and dried. Once dry, the swatches were again analyzed with the RUMBA system (T1 ).

[0217] The swatches were then treated with equal amounts of either composition 2A or C1 which was left to rest on the hair and then rinsed. This process was repeated four times, for a total of five treatments, after which the swatches were again analysed with the RUMBA system (T2). Finally, the swatches were shampooed and rinsed three times, and once more analysed with the RUMBA system (T3).

[0218] FIG. 4 show images generated from the RUMBA system at each time point. As FIG. 4 clearly shows, the hair treated with composition 2A had significant curl recovery, whereas the composition treated with composition C1 had no curl recovery.

[0219] Example 3 therefore demonstrates that compositions according to the disclosure are surprisingly beneficial for restoring hair curls that may be lost as a result of damage to hair caused by harsh processes such as bleaching, dyeing, straightening, or the like.

[0220] Example 4 - Evaluation of Water Uptake and Frizz Reduction

[0221] Compositions 3A-3B (according to the present invention) and C2-C6 (comparative) were prepared as shown in Table 3.

[0222] TABLE 3

[0223] The compositions prepared as shown in Table 3 were used to study the water uptake and frizz of hair treated with various combinations of osmolytes (trimethyl glycine), basic amino acids (arginine), and / or carboxylic acids (citric acid).

[0224] Example 4.1 - Water Uptake

[0225] Water uptake was studied to determine the water content of hair before and after treatment. Eight (8) swatches of two different types of previously bleached hair (S1 , S2) were used (n=16). After resting at room temperature, 45% relative humidity for six hours, the swatches were placed in a thermobalance at 100°C. The initial weight of each swatch was recorded. After 30 minutes in the thermobalance, the weight of each swatch was again recorded (TO).

[0226] One swatch of each type of hair (S1 and S2) was treated with equal amounts of one of compositions 3A-3B or C2-C6, by applying the composition to the hair and massaging to ensure even distribution. One swatch for each type of hair was not treated and used as a control (CTL). The swatches were again left to rest at room temperature, 45% relative humidity for six hours.

[0227] The swatches were again placed in a thermobalance at 100°C, and the weight of each swatch was recorded (T1 ). After 30 minutes in the thermobalance, the weight of each swatch was again recorded (T2).

[0228] FIG. 5 shows the results of the water uptake study, where the y-axis shows the percentage of water uptake for each swatch, calculated using the weights of the swatches at TO, T1 , and T2. The numeric results of the study are shown in Table 4 below, which also provides the average of the results. The average is expected to be reasonably representative of the water uptake benefits that would be achieved treating various types of hair with one of compositions 3A-3B or C2-C6.

[0229] TABLE 4

[0230] As FIG. 5 and Table 4 show, the hair treated with composition 3B had the lowest water uptake, followed by the hair treated with composition 3A. The decrease in water uptake achieved with compositions 3A and 3B is considered to be statistically significant.

[0231] As FIG. 5 and Table 4 also show, the hair treated with compositions C2 and C5-C6 also showed decreased water uptake but not to as great of a degree as compositions 3A and 3B, and hair treated with compositions C3 and C4 actually showed increased water uptake compared to the control.

[0232] These results are surprising, particularly because the decrease in water uptake does not correlate to an additive effect of the components, but rather is believed to be a result of previously unknown synergism between osmolytes and amino acids, and / or osmolytes, amino acids, and carboxylic acids to permit the hair fibers to maintain moisture equilibrium, thus minimizing water uptake and improving the elasticity of the hair fibers.

[0233] Example 4.2 - Frizz

[0234] The following studies were performed to evaluate frizz reduction provided by the compositions in Table 3.

[0235] Eight (8) swatches of two different types of previously bleached hair (S1 , S2) were used (n=16). One swatch of each type of hair (S1 and S2) was treated with equal amounts of one of compositions 3A-3B or C2-C6, by applying the composition to the hair and massaging to ensure even distribution. One swatch for each type of hair was not treated and used as a control (CTL). The swatches were then left to rest at room temperature, 80% relative humidity for eight hours, and analyzed using the BOLERO Lite imaging system (Bossa Nova Vision).

[0236] FIG. 6 shows the results of the frizz study, where the y-axis is the measured frizz surface area (cm2) for each swatch. The numeric results of the study are shown in Table 5 below, which also provides the average of the results. The average is expected to be reasonably representative of the reduction in frizz that would be achieved treating various types of hair with one of compositions 3A-3B or C2-C6.

[0237] TABLE 5

[0238] As FIG. 6 and Table 5 show, the hair treated with composition 3A had the lowest frizz measured, followed by the hair treated with composition 3B. The decrease in frizz achieved with compositions 3A and 3B, which is approximately half that of the control, is considered to be statistically significant.

[0239] As FIG. 6 and Table 5 also show, the hair treated with compositions C2- C3 and C5-C6 has a decreased frizz value but not to as great of a degree as with compositions 3A and 3B, and hair treated with composition C4 has an increased value compared to the control.

[0240] FIG. 7 shows photographs of control swatch S1 (CTL) and swatch S1 treated with composition 3A, and control swatch S2 (CTL) and swatch S2 treated with composition 3A, after exposure to the high humidity conditions used in this study. The photographs demonstrate the significant reduction in frizz achieved using compositions according to the disclosure.

[0241] These results are surprising, particularly because the decrease in frizz does not correlate to an additive effect of the components.

[0242] Example 5 - Hair compositions

[0243] Hair compositions 4A-4N, which can be used in methods according to the present invention, were prepared as shown in Tables 6 through 8 described below. Compositions 4A-4N can be used in methods according to the present invention and are expected to perform similarly to compositions 3A and 3B in limiting water uptake and reducing frizz of treated hair. The compositions have also been found to reduce hair damage and improve elasticity and strength of the treated hair fibers.

[0244] Example 5.1

[0245] Compositions 4A-4G were prepared as shown in Table 6 below. The pH of each of compositions 4A-4G was about 3.5. TABLE 6

[0246] Example 5.2

[0247] Hair compositions 4H-4L were prepared as shown in Table 7.

[0248] TABLE 7

[0249] Example 5.3

[0250] Hair compositions 4M-4N were prepared as shown in Table 8.

[0251] TABLE 8

[0252] Compositions 4A-4N, which contained a synergistic combination of components (carboxylic acids (citric and / or lactic acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine), and amino acids (arginine and / or serine)), can be used in methods according to the present invention, and are expected to perform similarly to compositions 3A and 3B in limiting water uptake and reducing frizz of treated hair. The compositions have also been found, surprisingly, to reduce hair damage and improve elasticity and tensile strength of the treated hair fibers. The disclosed combination of osmolytes, amino acids, and preferably also including carboxylic acids, thus has a previously unknown synergism for treating hair, in particular damaged hair, and minimizing water uptake and frizz.

[0253] Example 6 - Evaluation of Damage Repair

[0254] In order to evaluate the ability of compositions that can be used in methods according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent, or repair damage to hair, the following studies were conducted.

[0255] Example 6.1 - Ultra Bleached Hair

[0256] Eight swatches (S3-S10) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleach powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1 :1.5 (bleach powderoxidizing composition) and processed at a temperature of about 55 °C for about 45 minutes. The swatches were rinsed and then seven of the swatches (S3-S9) were subjected to the following treatment routines (swatch S8 did not have any treatment after the bleaching composition was rinsed from the hair).

[0257] Swatch S3 was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. This treatment protocol was repeated every day for five days.

[0258] Swatches S4-S9 were each cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately, one of compositions 4A-4F (Table 6) was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. This treatment protocol was repeated every day for five days. TABLE 7

[0259] The integrity of the hair fibers of each of swatches S3-S10 was studied after the first and fifth days. Elasticity was evaluated to determine whether the hair fibers stretched, and if so, whether they returned to their original state (lower elasticity, i.e. healthy), whether the fibers stretched easily and remained stretched (higher elasticity, i.e. damaged), or whether the hair fibers broke upon testing.

[0260] The evaluation was performed by stretching a standardized amount of wet hair fibers, with two experts independently evaluating each swatch. The experts were trained to stretch the area of the swatch being evaluated by uniformly applying manual pulling force using the hands / fingers. The behaviour of the swatch was classified by each expert according to a 6-level scale as follows, with the result reported for each swatch as the average of the two:

[0261] 0 = Natural, healthy hair (no damage);

[0262] 1 = Low elasticity (when stretched, hair fibers present slight elasticity, returning to the initial state after the test);

[0263] 2 = Moderate elasticity (when stretched, hair fibers present elasticity, returning to the initial state after the test);

[0264] 3 = High elasticity (when stretched, hair fibers present elasticity and some of the hair fibers do not return to the initial state after the test);

[0265] 4 = Very high elasticity (when stretched, hair fibers present elasticity and most of the hair fibers do not return to the initial state after the test); and

[0266] 5 = Immediate break (when stretched, hair fibers present high elasticity and break during the test).

[0267] The results showed that the hair fibers of swatches S4-S9, treated with one of compositions 4A-4F, surprisingly had lower elasticity than the fibers of swatches S3 or S10 after both day 1 (FIG. 8A) and day 5 (FIG. 8B). In other words, the hair of swatches S3 and S10 was damaged by the harsh bleaching process, leading to increased elasticity, whereas the damage to swatches S4-S9 had been repaired by treatment with one of compositions 4A-4F.

[0268] Example 6.2 - Straightened and Ultra Bleached Hair

[0269] Eight swatches (S11 -S18) of Caucasian hair that had been previously straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleach powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1 :1.5 (bleach powderoxidizing composition) and processed at a temperature of about 55 °C for about 45 minutes. The swatches were rinsed and then seven of the swatches (S11-S17) were subjected to the following treatment routines.

[0270] Swatch S11 was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair. The treatment was repeated a second time. This treatment protocol was repeated every day for five days.

[0271] Swatches S12-S17 were each cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, one of compositions 4A-4F (Table 8) was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair. This treatment protocol was repeated every day for five days.

[0272] TABLE 8

[0273] The integrity of the hair fibers of each of swatches S11 -S18 was studied in the same manner as described in Example 6.1. The results showed that the hair fibers of swatches S12-S17, treated with one of compositions 4A-4F, surprisingly had lower elasticity than the fibers of swatches S11 and S18 after both day 1 (FIG. 9A) and day 5 (FIG. 9B).

[0274] Examples 6.1 and 6.2 therefore demonstrate that treating hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical processes with a composition according to the disclosure surprisingly repairs the damage, leaving hair less elastic than without treatment.

[0275] Example 7 - Evaluation of Damage Repair

[0276] In order to evaluate the ability of compositions according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent, or repair damage to hair, the following studies were conducted.

[0277] A comparative product, C7, had the following listing of ingredients on the package: Water (Aqua / Eau), Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, Propylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Quaternium- 91 , Sodium Benzoate, Cetrimonium Methosulfate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Fragrance (Parfum), Tetrasodium EDTA, Polyquaternium-37, Benzyl Benzoate, Etidronic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Phytantriol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Panthenol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate. Composition C7, which is described as a “pre-shampoo hair treatment that reduces breakage and split ends for visibly healthier hair,” is advertised as part of a system that asserts it can “relink broken disulfide bonds damaged by chemical services, heat, and styling.” The instructions for composition C7 are to use the product prior to using the shampoo (“C7-S”) and conditioner (“C7-C”) that form part of this system, both of which include bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate as the stated active agent.

[0278] Example 7.1 - Ultra Bleached Hair: Elasticity and Strength

[0279] Five swatches (S19-S23) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleach powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1 :1.5 (bleach powderoxidizing composition) and processed at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The swatches were rinsed and then four of the swatches (S19-S22) were subjected to the following treatment routines (swatch S23 did not have any treatment after the bleaching composition was rinsed from the hair).

[0280] Swatch S19 was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.

[0281] Swatches S20 and S21 were each cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately, one of compositions 4K (S20) or 4I (S21 ) was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.

[0282] Swatch S22 was treated with composition C7 by applying the composition to the swatch and distributing it to ensure the hair was fully coated. Composition C7 was allowed to remain on the hair for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately, the swatch was cleansed with shampoo C7-S by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, conditioner C7-C was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.

[0283] Once all five treatments of swatches S19-S22 were completed, the integrity of the hair fibers of each of swatches S19-S23 was studied in the same manner as described in Example 6.1. The results showed that the hair fibers of swatches S20 and S21 , treated with compositions 4K and 4I respectively, had lower elasticity than the fibers of swatches S19 and S22-S23 (FIG. 10).

[0284] Next, the strength was evaluated using a fiber tensile testing instrument from Dia-Stron known as an MTT (Miniature Tensile Tester). The results showed that the hair of swatches S20 and S21 , treated with compositions 4K and 4I respectively, was surprisingly stronger than the hair of swatches S19 or S22, meaning that more force was required to break the individual hair fibers of swatches S20-S21. FIG. 11A shows the break stress (MPa) for a control swatch (CTL), which was the same hair but unbleached, swatch S19, which was bleached but without subsequent treatment, and swatches S20 and S21 , treated with compositions 4K and 4I respectively, and S22, treated with the comparative compositions. As FIG. 11A shows, the break stress of the control swatch (CTL) was more than twice that of swatch S19, demonstrating the significant damage caused by the bleaching process. After five (5) treatments with either composition 4K (swatch S20), 4I (swatch S21 ), or the comparative compositions (S22), the break stress of the treated swatches was increased compared to swatch S19. Surprisingly, the increase in break stress for swatches S20-S21 was considered to be statistically significant compared to that of swatch S22, meaning that compositions 4K and 4I repaired the hair to a greater degree than the comparative compositions.

[0285] Example 7.2 - Straightened and Ultra Bleached Hair: Elasticity

[0286] Four swatches (S24-S27) of Caucasian hair that had been previously straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleach powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1 :1.5 (bleach powderoxidizing composition) and processed at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The swatches were rinsed and for a treatment period of five weeks, all four swatches were subjected to the following routine twice a week.

[0287] First, the swatches were cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0288] Three of the swatches (S24-S26) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines one time each week for the 5-week period.

[0289] Swatch S24 was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. A mask composition was applied to the hair and allowed to remain on the hair, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0290] Swatch S25 was cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, composition 4J was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0291] Swatch S26 was treated with composition C7 by applying the composition to the swatch and distributing it to ensure the hair was fully coated. Composition C7 was allowed to remain on the hair for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately, the swatch was cleansed with shampoo C7-S by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, conditioner C7-C was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0292] After the five-week treatment period, the elasticity and strength of the hair fibers of each of swatches S24-S27 were studied in the same manner as described in Example 6.1. The results showed that the hair fibers of swatch S25, treated with composition 4J, had lower elasticity than the fibers of any of swatches S24 or S26- S27.

[0293] Example 7.3 - Straightened and Ultra Bleached Hair: Strength

[0294] Four swatches (S28-S31 ) of Caucasian hair that had been previously straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleach powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1 :1.5 (bleach powderoxidizing composition) and processed at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The swatches were rinsed and for a treatment period of five weeks, all four swatches were subjected to the following routine.

[0295] First, the swatches were cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0296] Three of the swatches (S29-S31 ) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines one time each week for the 5-week period.

[0297] Swatches S29 and S30 were cleansed with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. One of either composition 4I (S30) or 4K (S29) was applied to the hair and allowed to remain on the hair, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0298] Swatch S31 was treated with composition C7 by applying the composition to the swatch and distributing it to ensure the hair was fully coated. Composition C7 was allowed to remain on the hair for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately, the swatch was cleansed with shampoo C7-S by wetting the swatch, applying the shampoo to the swatch, lathering the shampoo, allowing it to rest on the swatch for a period of about one minute, then rinsing the swatch until all shampoo was removed. Immediately, conditioner C7-C was applied to the swatch and distributed to ensure the hair was fully coated, allowed to remain for a resting period of about five minutes, and then the swatch was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-on conditioning product and a leave-on flat iron serum were applied to the hair. MTT testing was performed in the same manner as described in Example 7.1. The results showed that the hair of swatches S29 and S30, treated with compositions 4K and 4I respectively, was surprisingly stronger than the hair of swatches S28 or S31 , meaning that more force was required to break the individual hair fibers of swatches S29-S30. FIG. 11 B shows the break stress (MPa) for a control swatch (CTL), which was the same hair but unbleached, swatch S28, which was bleached but without subsequent treatment, swatches S29 and S30, treated with compositions 4K and 4I respectively, and S31 , treated with the comparative compositions. As FIG. 11 B shows, the break stress of the control swatch (CTL) was approximately three times that of swatch S28, showing the significant damage caused by the bleaching process. After five (5) treatments with either composition 4I (swatch S30), 4K (swatch S29), the break stress of the treated swatches was increased compared to swatch S28, and the improvement was considered to be statistically significant. FIG. 11 B shows, however, that the break stress of the swatch treated with the comparative composition (S31 ) had no improvement in break stress.

[0299] Examples 7.1 to 7.3, thus, demonstrate that treating hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical processes with a composition according to the disclosure surprisingly repairs the damage. The damage repair achieved with compositions according to the disclosure is also surprisingly greater than that achieved with a commercial product that asserts to do the same.

[0300] Example 8 - Compositions

[0301] Composition 5A according to the present invention and a comparative composition C8 were prepared as shown in Table 9.

[0302] TABLE 9

[0303] Composition 5A contained a synergistic combination of components that work together to limit uptake of minerals into hair fibers, and / or remove minerals from hair fibers (carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine), and amino acids (arginine)), whereas composition C8 did not include any osmolytes. In order to evaluate the ability of hair compositions to limit mineral uptake into the hair fibers, the following study was conducted. Three swatches of virgin Caucasian hair were shampooed with a commercially available shampoo, rinsed, and dried. The swatches were then bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleach powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1 :1.5 (bleach powderoxidizing composition) and processed at a temperature of about 55°C for about 45 minutes. The swatches were again shampooed, rinsed, and dried. The foregoing process steps used tap water.

[0304] Finally, two of the swatches were treated by applying equal amounts of either composition 5A or composition C8 to one of the swatches, leaving the compositions on the hair for a resting time of five minutes, and then rinsed with deionized water. This process was repeated four more times for a total of five treatments per swatch. One swatch was not treated with any composition and served as the control.

[0305] The swatches were then analysed for calcium concentration using X-ray fluorescence, and the results are shown in Table 10.

[0306] TABLE 10

[0307] The data in Table 10 show that the combination of carboxylic acids, osmolytes, and amino acids, reduces the uptake of minerals such as calcium from the tap water into the hair and / or removes the calcium from the hair fiber.

[0308] These results were surprising. Although the comparative composition provided reduction of mineral uptake into hair, it was not known that the addition of osmolytes would improve the results as shown.

[0309] Example 9 - Additional Compositions

[0310] Compositions 6A-6D according to the disclosure were prepared as shown in Table 1 1.

[0311] TABLE 11

[0312] Compositions 6A-6D, which contained a synergistic combination of components (carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine), and amino acids (arginine)), are expected to rebuild bonds in the hair fiber, minimize, prevent, and / or repair damage to hair, and to limit uptake of minerals into hair fibers and / or remove minerals from hair fibers. The compositions are also expected to improve elasticity and tensile strength of the treated hair fibers.

[0313] Example 10 - Additional Compositions

[0314] The following compositions according to the disclosure can be prepared and are expected to similarly provide curl enhancing / reshaping benefits to curly hair. The following compositions also are expected to similarly limit water uptake, limit uptake of minerals into hair fibers and reducing frizz of treated hair, remove minerals from hair fibers, minimize, prevent, and / or reduce hair damage, rebuild bonds in the hair fiber, minimize, prevent, and / or repair damage to hair, and / or improve elasticity and tensile strength of the treated hair fibers. TABLE 12

[0315] The above examples demonstrate that the compositions and methods according to the disclosure surprisingly and unexpectedly restore curls to hair and repair hair that has been damaged.

[0316] The above examples also demonstrate that the compositions and methods according to the present invention surprisingly rebuild bonds; prevent, minimize, and / or repair damage to hair; lower hair elasticity; limit uptake of minerals into hair fibers, limit water uptake in hair, maintain moisture equilibrium in hair, reduce frizz of hair and / or remove minerals from hair fibers.

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS1. Method for enhancing curls, balancing or limiting water uptake in hair, maintaining moisture equilibrium in hair, reducing frizz of hair, building bonds in hair, limiting uptake of minerals into hair fibers, and / or removing minerals from hair fibers, comprising:(i) applying a composition to hair, comprising:(a) at least one compound chosen from amino acids or salts thereof;(b) at least one osmolyte;(c) optionally at least one compound chosen from carboxylic acids or salts thereof; and(d) at least one solvent, and(ii) optionally rinsing the hair.

2. Method, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition comprises (a) at least one amino acid chosen from compounds of formula (I) or salts thereof:wherein: p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and when p = 1 , R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1 -C4)alkyl; or when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear, or branched (C1 -C12)alkyl group, preferably a (C1 -C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH-, or - C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (- OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.

3. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the composition comprises (a) at least one amino acid chosen from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.

4. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition comprises (b) at least one osmolyte chosen from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, betaines, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably comprising at least one betaine chosen from compounds of formula (II) or salts thereof:(R1 )(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)n-Y-(H) wherein:R1 , R2, and R3 are independently chosen from C1 -C4 alkyl groups;A is N or S; m and n are independently 0 or 1 ;X is a divalent C1 -C6 alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); andY’ is -COO- or -OSO3-; with the provisos that: o when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), (C1 -C10) hydrocarbon chain, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or - C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (- OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2; o when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear, or branched (C1 -C8)alkyl, and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1 -C4)alkyl; and o when A is N and m = 1 , then R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains) (C1 -C10) hydrocarbon chain, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or - C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (- OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2.

5. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition comprises (a) at least one basic amino carboxylic acid and (b) at least one betaine.

6. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition comprises (b) at least one osmolyte chosen from carbohydrate sugars, preferably from C3-C6 monosaccharides, more preferably from pentoses, hexoses, derivatives thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.

7. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition comprises (b) at least one polyamine chosen from diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, or combinations of two or more thereof.

8. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition comprises (b) at least one compound of formula (II), preferably chosen from zwitterionic amino acid derivatives bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

9. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition comprises (b) at least one compound of formula (II) chosen from valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine, histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably comprising glycine betaine.

10. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition comprises (b) at least one compound of formula (II), wherein:R1 and R2 are methyl;A is N; and / orY is COO-.

11. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the composition comprises (c) at least one carboxylic acid chosen from monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, tricarboxylic acids, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.

12. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 11 , wherein the composition comprises (c) at least one compound chosen from formic acid, acetic acid,propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1 ,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.

13. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof in the composition ranges from 2% to 15%, preferably from 2.5% to 12%, more preferably from 3% to 10%, and most preferably from 3.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the total amount of osmolytes in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 10%, preferably from 1 % to 8%, more preferably from 1 % to 5%, and most preferably from 1.5% to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof in the composition ranges from 3% to 15%, preferably from 3% to 12%, more preferably from 3.5% to 10%, and most preferably from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 2 to 6, preferably from 2.5 to 5, more preferably from 2.5 to 4.5, and most preferably from 3 to 4.

17. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein the composition further comprises at least one film former.

18. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 17, wherein the composition comprises:(a) at least basic amino acid or salt thereof;(b) at least one compound of formula (II) or a salt thereof; and(c) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof;(d) water.

19. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 18, wherein the composition comprises:(a) at least one compound chosen from basic amino acids or salts thereof;(b) at least one compound chosen from compounds of formula (II) or salts thereof;(c) at least one compound chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, or salts thereof; and(d) water and at least one polyol.

20. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 19, wherein the composition comprises:(a) at least one compound chosen from arginine or salts thereof;(b) glycine betaine or a salt thereof;(c) at least one compound chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, or salts thereof; and(d) water.

21. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 20, wherein the composition comprises:(a) at least one compound chosen from arginine or salts thereof;(b) glycine betaine or a salt thereof;(c) at least one compound chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, or salts thereof;(d) water and at least one polyol; and(e) optionally at least one compound chosen from serine or salts thereof.

22. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 16, 18 or 20, wherein the composition further comprises at least one additional component chosen from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations of two or more thereof.

23. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 22, wherein the composition is rinsed from the hair after a leave-in period of time ranging from 1 minute to 24 hours or 1 minute to 60 minutes and optionally rinsed.

24. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein the hair to which the composition is applied is hair that has been bleached and / or dyed, and / or the hair to which the composition is applied has significant reduction in frizziness and volume, and significant curl recovery compared to the untreated hair; and / or the hair to which the composition is applied has increased shine and smoothness compared to the untreated hair; and / orthe hair to which the composition is applied has decreased water uptake, and significant reduction in frizziness and volume compared to the untreated hair; and / or the hair to which the composition is applied has less damage compared to the untreated hair.

25. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein the method is for enhancing curls.

26. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein the method is for limiting water uptake in hair, maintaining moisture equilibrium in hair, and / or reducing frizz of hair.

27. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein the method is for building bonds in hair.

28. Method, according to any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein the method is for limiting uptake of minerals into hair fibers and / or removing minerals from hair fibers.

29. Method for enhancing curls, balancing or limiting water uptake in hair, maintaining moisture equilibrium in hair, reducing frizz of hair, building bonds in hair, limiting uptake of minerals into hair fibers, and / or removing minerals from hair fibers, comprising:(i) applying a composition to hair, comprising:(a) at least one compound chosen from basic amino acids or salts thereof;(b) at least one osmolyte chosen from compounds of formula (II) or salts thereof:(R1 )(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)n-Y-(H) wherein:R1 , R2, and R3 are independently chosen from C1 -C4 alkyl groups;A is N or S; m and n are independently 0 or 1 ;X is a divalent C1 -C6 alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); andY’ is -COO- or -OSO3-; with the provisos that: o when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or - C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (- OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2; o when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear, or branched (C1-C8)alkyl, and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1-C4)alkyl; and o when A is N and m = 1 , then R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains) (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or - C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (- OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2;(c) at least one compound chosen from carboxylic acids or salts thereof; and(d) water and optionally at least one polyol; and(ii) optionally rinsing the hair.

30. Method, according to claim 29, wherein the pH ranges from 2 to 6, and wherein the total amount of basic amino acids and salts thereof ranges from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof ranges from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

31. Method, according to claim 29, wherein the composition comprises (b) at least one compound of formula (II) wherein:R1 , R2, and R3 are methyl;A is N;Y is COO-;X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by methylene or ethylene;R4 is hydrogen; andR5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted by one hydroxy group.

32. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 31 , wherein the (b) compounds of formula (II) are chosen from valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine, histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably comprising glycine betaine.

33. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 31 , wherein the composition comprises (c) at least one compound chosen from formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1 ,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof.

34. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 32, wherein the treatment composition comprises at least one amino acid chosen from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably comprising arginine.

35. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 32, wherein the composition further comprises at least one film former.

36. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 35, wherein the composition further comprises at least one additional component chosen from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations of two or more thereof.

37. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 36, wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 2.5 to 5.5, preferably from 2.5 to 5, preferably from 2.5 to 4.5, more preferably from 3 to 4.

38. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 37, wherein the total amount of amino acids and salts thereof ranges from 2% to 15%, preferably from 2.5%to 12%, more preferably from 3% to 10%, and most preferably from 3.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

39. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 38, wherein the total amount of osmolytes ranges from 0.5% to 10%, preferably from 1 % to 8%, more preferably from 1 % to 5%, and most preferably from 1.5% to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

40. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 39, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof ranges from 3% to 15%, preferably from 3% to 12%, more preferably from 3.5% to 10%, and most preferably from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

41. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 40, wherein the composition comprises:(a) at least one compound chosen from basic amino acids or salts thereof;(b) glycine betaine or a salt thereof;(c) at least one compound chosen from carboxylic acids having from 3 to 14 carbon atoms or salts thereof; and(d) water and optionally at least one polyol.

42. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 40, wherein the composition comprises:(a) at least one compound chosen from arginine or salts thereof;(b) at least one osmolyte chosen from compounds of formula (II) or salts thereof;(c) at least one compound chosen from carboxylic acids having from 3 to 14 carbon atoms or salts thereof; and(d) water and optionally at least one polyol.

43. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 40, wherein the composition comprises:(a) at least one compound chosen from arginine or salts thereof;(b) glycine betaine or a salt thereof;(c) at least one compound chosen from carboxylic acids having from 3 to 14 carbon atoms or salts thereof, preferably chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, salts thereof, or combinations thereof;(d) water and optionally at least one polyol; and(e) optionally at least one film former.

44. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 43, wherein the composition is rinsed from the hair after a leave-in period of time ranging from 1 minute to 24 hours or 1 minute to 60 minutes, and the hair is subsequently rinsed.

45. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 44, wherein the hair to which the composition is applied is hair that has been bleached and / or dyed, and / or the hair to which the composition is applied has significant reduction in frizziness and volume, and significant curl recovery compared to the untreated hair; and / or the hair to which the composition is applied has increased shine and smoothness compared to the untreated hair. the hair to which the composition is applied has decreased water uptake, and significant reduction in frizziness and volume compared to the untreated hair; and / or the hair to which the composition is applied has less damage compared to the untreated hair.

46. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 44, wherein the method is for enhancing curls.

47. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 44, wherein the method is for limiting water uptake in hair, maintaining moisture equilibrium in hair, and / or reducing frizz of hair.

48. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 44, wherein the method is for building bonds in hair.

49. Method, according to any one of claims 29 to 44, wherein the method is for limiting uptake of minerals into hair fibers and / or removing minerals from hair fibers.

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