Oil-in-water emulsion with wide range of applications, for oxidatively changing the colour of keratin fibres
The oil-in-water emulsion, composed of specific surfactants and fatty alcohols, addresses the hair damage and sustainability issues of conventional oxidative hair dyes by providing a balanced pH and improved application properties.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2024/085496
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-20
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-10
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-26
AI Technical Summary
Conventional oxidative hair dyes cause significant hair damage due to their alkaline pH, leading to roughness, loss of shine, and impaired colorfastness. Additionally, they often require unsustainable thickening polymers and can irritate the scalp.
An oil-in-water emulsion based on a selected mixture of cationic and non-ionic surfactants, fatty alcohols, and a quaternary ammonium compound, which serves as the alkalizing component of a two-part oxidative hair color agent, providing excellent application properties for both bottle and brush applications.
The solution reduces hair damage by maintaining a more balanced pH, improves the homogeneity of the color change result, and enhances the washability of the application mixture from the hair, while being more sustainable and skin-compatible.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] "Oil-in-water emulsion for oxidative color change of keratin fibers with a wide range of applications"
[0002] The present invention relates to an oxidative color change agent for keratin fibers in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, which represents the alkalizing component (M1) of a two-part oxidative coloring or lightening agent, which is mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution (M2) immediately before use and the application mixture thus obtained is then applied directly to the hair.
[0003] When preparing the application mixture, a distinction is made between whether the application mixture is prepared by shaking both compositions (M1) and (M2) in an application bottle, from which the application mixture is immediately applied to the hair after mixing using an application spout as a bottle attachment (bottle application), or whether the application mixture is prepared by stirring both compositions (M1) and (M2) in a bowl, from which the application mixture is immediately applied to the hair after mixing using a brush (brush application). Bottle application is particularly suitable for colorants that are sold in retail stores with a recommendation for application by the consumer themselves. Brush application is particularly suitable for colorants that are prepared by the hairdresser in the hair salon and applied to the consumer's hair.
[0004] So-called oxidation dyes are used for permanent, intensive colorings with corresponding fastness properties. Oxidative dyes typically consist of two components: one component usually contains oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components, and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents, particularly hydrogen peroxide, which are added to the first component shortly before application to the hair, or of atmospheric oxygen, either with each other or by coupling with one or more coupler components. Typically, primary aromatic amines with an additional free or substituted hydroxy or amino group in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives, and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives are used as developer components.Typically, m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones, m-aminophenols, and substituted pyridine derivatives are used as coupler components. These oxidation dyes are characterized by excellent, long-lasting color results.
[0005] Conventional oxidative colorants have a more alkaline pH value, usually well above 8.5, to stabilize the dye precursors during storage and to accelerate the reaction during oxidative application. This pH is usually adjusted with alkalizing agents such as alkanolamines, ammonia, or inorganic bases. Ammonia, in particular, enables good color results, but also presents disadvantages for the user due to its odor and potential irritation to skin and mucous membranes. The alkalizing agent causes the keratin fibers to swell, allowing the dye precursors to penetrate the hair easily. However, the alkaline pH also intensifies the damaging effect of the oxidizing agent on the hair structure. The damage to the hair structure, which is particularly noticeable, affects the flaking of the cuticle, the outer layer of the keratin fiber.This manifests itself in increased roughness, poorer feel, reduced shine, and poorer stability of the fiber. The roughened cuticle structure allows small molecules, such as water, to escape more quickly. As a result, damaged hair further loses its suppleness and elasticity. The roughened fiber surface also impairs the colorfastness properties.
[0006] To reduce hair damage caused by alkaline oxidative color-changing agents, these products often contain fats or oils. The content of oil and / or fat components can also reduce the release of ammonia after application to the hair when ammonium hydroxide and ammonium salts are used as alkalizing agents. The balancing power of the hair colorant can also be improved by the content of oil and / or fat components, so that the resulting color is less selective, absorbing roughly equally into both the damaged and undamaged sections of the keratin fibers.
[0007] Many oxidation dye precursors are aromatic amines. Some of these aromatic amines are preferably used in the form of their salts, particularly in the form of sulfates and hydrogen sulfates, as these are more stable and easier to handle than the free amines. In the alkaline medium of the dye, the free amines are released from the salt and form the dyes. The oxidation dye precursors in salt form contribute a higher salt load to the dyeing component. This is particularly true for darker shades, which contain a higher overall concentration of oxidation dye precursors. Dyeing components in emulsion form are often less stable due to this high salt concentration and tend to separate into the oil and water phases over time. This phase separation is accelerated by increasing the storage temperature.However, thermal stability is essential for a mass-produced emulsion, as the product can be exposed to significant temperature fluctuations during transport from production through various intermediate storage facilities to the point of sale in online or brick-and-mortar retail stores. Both high and very low temperatures can be detrimental to emulsion stability. Particularly problematic, however, are high temperatures of 50°C and above, which typically occur during ocean transport on container ships. State of the art.
[0008] In the published patent applications DE 10 2016 225379 A1, DE 10 2016 225380 A1 and DE 10 2016 225382 A1, the object of providing an oxidative colorant with a broad viscosity and application spectrum, the application mixture of which is particularly suitable for both brush application and bottle application, is achieved by the use of certain copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylic acid esters and / or homopolymers of acrylic acid salts.
[0009] In the prior art, this task is essentially solved by thickening polymers that comprise acrylic acid, acrylic acid amides, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid, methacrylic acid amides, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidones, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, and / or styrenes as the chain-forming monomer. Such polymers are considered unsustainable for several reasons. Therefore, their use in cosmetics should be avoided whenever possible.
[0010] The present application was therefore based on the object of providing an agent for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers that is suitable as an alkalizing component of a two-part oxidative color change agent and whose viscosity properties, after mixing with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, make the agent suitable for both bottle and brush application. The ingredients of the carrier should be as sustainable as possible. The use of thickening polymers that include acrylic acid, acrylic acid amides, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid, methacrylic acid amides, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidones, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, and / or styrenes as chain-forming monomers should be avoided.
[0011] Replacing unsustainable thickening polymers with surfactants can pose the problem of impaired skin compatibility, especially scalp compatibility. A further objective was therefore to provide an agent for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers that is suitable as an alkalizing component of a two-part oxidative color change agent and that exhibits high skin compatibility, especially high scalp compatibility.
[0012] It has now been found that an oxidative color-changing agent based on an oil-in-water emulsion with a selected mixture of cationic and non-ionic surfactants and emulsifiers as well as fatty alcohols has excellent application properties in both bottle application and brush application.
[0013] The present invention relates, in a first embodiment, to an agent for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which contains, in each case based on its weight, the following components: a) 45 to 85% by weight, preferably 50 to 80% by weight, particularly preferably 55 to 75% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 60 to 70% by weight of water, b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides of the formula R 4 O-[G] P , in the R 4represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p represents a positive rational number in the range from 1 to 6, in a total amount of 2.0 - 15.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 - 12.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 3.5 to 8.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 3.5 to 5.0 wt.%, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 8-20 wt.%, preferably 10-18 wt.%, particularly preferably 12-17 wt.%, d) at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) in a total amount of 0.3 - 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.9 - 1.5 wt.%, wherein
[0014] R 1 represents an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent,
[0015] R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 4 stands,
[0016] R 3 independent of R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 5 stands,
[0017] R 4 and R 5 independently of one another each represent an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent,
[0018] R 6 represents a saturated alkylene group having 1, 2 or 3 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, n and p can each independently have the value 1, 2 or 3 and
[0019] X- represents a physiologically acceptable anion selected from chloride, bromide, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, methosulfate, ethosulfate and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate, e) at least one alkalizing agent, f) zero to less than 0.1% by weight of peroxide compounds, g) optionally at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type, the agent having a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range from 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range from 9.5 to 10.7, extraordinarily preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20°C. Surfactants and emulsifiers within the meaning of the present application are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds which consist of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic molecular part.The hydrophobic residue is preferably a hydrocarbon group with 8-28 carbon atoms, which can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. This Ca-C28 alkyl group is particularly preferably linear. Basic properties of surfactants and emulsifiers are oriented absorption at interfaces, aggregation into micelles, and the formation of lyotropic phases.
[0020] All information on the physical states of substances (solid, liquid, gaseous) in this application refers to standard conditions. "Standard conditions" for the purposes of this application are a temperature of 25°C and a pressure of 1013.25 mbar.
[0021] The agent according to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion. The agent according to the invention also represents the alkalizing component of a two-part oxidative coloring or lightening agent, which is mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution shortly before use and then applied to the hair.
[0022] The agent according to the invention contains, in each case based on its weight, 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 60 to 70 wt.% water.
[0023] A further obligatory component of the agents according to the invention and preferred according to the invention is a content of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides of the formula R 4 O-[G] P , in the R 4represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p represents a positive rational number in the range from 1 to 6, in a total amount of 2.0 - 15.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 - 12.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 3.5 to 8.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 3.5 to 5.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent according to the invention. Surprisingly, it has been found that alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides of the formula R 4 O-[G] P in a total amount of 2.0 - 15.0 wt.%, contribute significantly to the excellent application properties of the product, especially in conjunction with the other mandatory components c) and d). At the same time, other advantageous application properties, in particular the homogeneity of the color change result and the washability of the application mixture from the keratin fibers, are surprisingly improved.
[0024] Preferred sugars from which the sugar residue G of the nonionic surfactant of the formula R 4 O-[G] P are erythrose, threose, erythrulose, ribose, deoxyribose, arabinose, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose, fucose and rhamnose, particularly preferably glucose, galactose, fructose, fucose and rhamnose, extremely preferably glucose. The alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides of the formula R 4 O-[G] P , in the R 4stands for an alkyl or alkenyl residue with 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G stands for a sugar residue with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p stands for positive rational numbers from 1 to 6, contain with G a sugar residue with 5 or 6 carbon atoms which is derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. The preferred alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are therefore alkyl mono- and oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a positive rational number between 1 and 6. While p in the individual molecule must always be an integer and can take on the values p = 1 to 6 here, the value p for an industrially produced alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined calculated value which is usually a fractional number.Preference is given to using alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0, preferably 1.5 to 2.0. From an application point of view, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with a degree of oligomerization of less than 1.7 and, in particular, in the range from 1.2 to 1.6 are preferred. The alkyl radical R. 4is derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 22, preferably 8 to 18, particularly preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, and undecyl alcohol, as well as technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides with a chain length of Ca-Cio (DP = 1 to 3), which are obtained as first runnings in the distillative separation of technical Ca-Cia coconut fatty alcohol and may be contaminated with a proportion of less than 6% by weight of C12 alcohol, as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical Cg / n-oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). These are commercially available under the INCI name Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside. Also preferred is an alkyl oligoglucoside commercial product whose alkyl radical R 4derived from technical Ca-Cia coconut fatty alcohol and available under the INCI name Coco-Glucoside. The alkyl radical R 4 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof, which can be obtained as described above. Preferred are alkyl oligoglucosides based on lauryl alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3.
[0025] Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides of the formula R 4 O-[G] P , in the R 4represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p represents a positive rational number in the range from 1 to 6, in a total amount of 2.0 - 15.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 - 12.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 3.5 to 8.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 3.5 to 5.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent. Further agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alkyl oligoglycoside of the formula R 4 O-[G] P , in the R 4represents an alkyl radical having 8 to 18, preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, G represents a glucose radical and p represents positive rational numbers from 1, 1 to 2, is selected from caprylyl glucoside, caprylglucoside, laurylglucoside, n-tetradecyl glucoside, cetyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, behenyl glucoside and mixtures of these glucosides, in particular mixtures with the designation cocoglucoside, mixtures of caprylyl glucoside and capryl glucoside and mixtures of caprylyl glucoside, capryl glucoside and cocoglucoside.
[0026] Another mandatory component of the inventive and preferred agents is a content of at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount—based on the weight of the agent—of 8-20 wt.%, preferably 10-18 wt.%, particularly preferably 12-17 wt.%. Surprisingly, it has been found that linear 1-alkanols having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 8-20 wt.% contribute significantly to the excellent application properties of the agent, particularly in conjunction with the other mandatory components b) and d). At the same time, other advantageous application properties, in particular the homogeneity of the color change result and the viscosity stability of the application mixture of the keratin fibers, are surprisingly improved.
[0027] Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms is selected from octan-1-ol (octyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol), decan-1-ol (decyl alcohol, capric alcohol), dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), eicosan-1-ol (eicosyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol), docosan-1-ol (docosyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol), (13E)-docosen-1-ol (brassidyl alcohol), (13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol (erucyl alcohol) and lanolin alcohol as well as mixtures of this.
[0028] A further obligatory component of the agents according to the invention and preferred according to the invention is a content of at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) in a total amount of 0.3 - 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.9 - 1.5 wt.%, based on the weight of the agent, (EQ-1), where
[0029] R 1 represents an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent, R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 4 stands, R 3 independent of R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 5 stands,
[0030] R 4 and R 5 independently of one another each represent an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent,
[0031] R 6represents a saturated alkylene group having 1, 2 or 3 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, n and p can each independently have the value 1, 2 or 3 and
[0032] X- represents a physiologically acceptable anion selected from chloride, bromide, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, methosulfate, ethosulfate and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate.
[0033] These quaternary ammonium compounds of formula (EQ-1) used according to the invention are also commonly referred to as esterquats. Esterquats contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
[0034] Preferred residues R 1 , R 4 and R 5are, each independently of one another, selected from n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tridecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-pentadecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-heptadecyl, 11-hydroxy-n-heptadecyl, iso-heptadecyl, n-heptadec-8-enyl, n-heptadec-8,11-dienyl, n-heptadec-8,11,14-trienyl, n-nonadecyl and n-heneicosanyl. Preferred radicals R 1 (CO), R 4 (CO) and R 5(CO) are, each independently of one another, selected from cocoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, 12-hydroxystearoyl, isostearyl, oleoyl, linoleoyl, eicosanoyl, and behenoyl. The cocoyl residue is relevant if not only an alkanoic acid or alkenoic acid, but also a coconut fatty acid mixture was used to prepare the quaternary ammonium compound of formula (EQ-1). It may also be preferred that a fatty acid mixture from the seeds of other oil plants, such as rapeseed, sunflower, or soybean, was used to prepare the quaternary ammonium compound of formula (EQ-1).
[0035] In esterquats of the formula (EQ-1) particularly preferred according to the invention, the radicals R 1 and, if applicable, R 4 and R 5 the same or come from the same fatty acid mixture.
[0036] Preferred residues R 2 in preferred esterquats of formula (EQ-1) are selected from -O(CO)R 4 , wherein preferred R4 and R 4 (CO) are mentioned above. In esterquats of the formula (EQ-1) which are particularly preferred in accordance with the invention, the radicals R 1 and R 4 and, if applicable, R 5 the same or come from the same fatty acid mixture.
[0037] Preferred residues R 3 in preferred esterquats of the formula (EQ-1) are selected from H and OH. In particular, when R 2 in the formula (EQ-1) for -O(CO)R 4 stands, is R 3 preferably selected from H and OH. R is particularly preferably 2 in the formula (EQ-1) for -O(CO)R 4 , R 3 is OH, and p is 2. Also particularly preferably, R 2 in the formula (EQ-1) for -O(CO)R 4 , R 3 for OH, and n and p are each 2. Preferred radicals R 6in preferred esterquats of the formula (EQ-1) are selected from the ethylene group -CH2-CH2- and the 2-hydroxypropylene group -CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-, with the ethylene group -CH2-CH2- being particularly preferred.
[0038] Preferred indices n in preferred esterquats of the formula (EQ-1) are selected from 1 and 2. Preferred indices p in preferred esterquats of the formula (EQ-1) are selected from 1 and 2. In particularly preferred esterquats of the formula (EQ-1), n and p are each 2.
[0039] Preferred anions X- for preferred esterquats of formula (EQ-1) are selected from chloride, sulfate, hydrogensulfate, methosulfate, and ethosulfate. Chloride and methosulfate are particularly preferred.
[0040] Surprisingly, it was found that quaternary ammonium compounds of formula (EQ-1) in a total amount of 0.3-5 wt.%, preferably 0.5-3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.9-1.5 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition, contribute significantly to the excellent application properties of the composition, particularly in conjunction with the other mandatory components b) and c). At the same time, other advantageous application properties, in particular the homogeneity of the color change result and the viscosity stability of the application mixture of the keratin fibers, are surprisingly improved.
[0041] Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) is selected from compounds in which the group R 1CO is selected from cocoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, 12-hydroxystearoyl, isostearoyl, oleoyl, linoleoyl, eicosanoyl and behenoyl.
[0042] Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) is selected from compounds in which the substituent R 2 for -O(CO)R 4 stands and Group R 4 CO is selected from cocoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, 12-hydroxystearoyl, isostearoyl, oleoyl, linoleoyl, eicosanoyl and behenoyl.
[0043] Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) is selected from compounds in which R 2 for -O(CO)R 4 stands and Group R 1 CO equals group R 4CO is and is selected from cocoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, 12-hydroxystearoyl, isostearoyl, oleoyl, linoleoyl, eicosanoyl and behenoyl.
[0044] Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) is selected from compounds in which R 2 for -O(CO)R 4 stands and Group R 1 CO equals group R 4 CO is and is selected from cocoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, 12-hydroxystearoyl, isostearoyl, oleoyl, linoleoyl, eicosanoyl and behenoyl, the remainder R 3 stands for OH, the rest R 6represents an ethylene group -CH2-CH2-, the index n represents 2 and the index p represents 2. Examples of such preferred compounds (EQ-1) are (2-hydroxyethyl)methyl-bis[2-[(1-oxooctadecyl)oxy]-ethyl]ammonium methylsulfate (INCI: Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate), Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate and N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)-2-hydroxyethylmethylammonium methylsulfate.
[0045] Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) is selected from compounds in which R 2 for -O(CO)R 4 stands and Group R 1 CO equals group R 4 CO is and is selected from cocoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, 12-hydroxystearoyl, isostearoyl, oleoyl, linoleoyl, eicosanoyl and behenoyl, the remainder R 3 stands for H (hydrogen), the residue R 6represents an ethylene group -CH2-CH2-, the index n represents 2 and the index p represents 1. Examples of such preferred compounds (EQ-1) are N,N-bis(2-stearoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride and N,N-bis(2-cocoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride.
[0046] Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) is selected from compounds in which the group R 1 CO is selected from cocoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, 12-hydroxystearoyl, isostearoyl, oleoyl, linoleoyl, eicosanoyl and behenoyl and preferably stands for behenoyl, R 2 and R 3 each represents H (hydrogen), the rest R 6represents a group -CH2-CH(OH)-CH2- and the indices n and p each represent 1. An example of such preferred compounds (EQ-1) is behenoylpropylene glycol trimethylammonium chloride (INCI: Behenoyl PG-Trimonium chloride).
[0047] In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the color-changing agent contains at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from glycerol mono-, di- and triesters of Ca-C24 carboxylic acids ethoxylated with 7-100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole, which may be saturated or unsaturated and optionally substituted with at least one hydroxy group, and from Ca-C24 alkanols ethoxylated with 10-100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole, as well as mixtures of these compounds.
[0048] Further color-changing agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one non-ionic ethoxylated surfactant, selected from glycerol mono-, di- and triesters of Ca-C24 carboxylic acids which are ethoxylated with 7 - 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole, which may be saturated or unsaturated and are optionally substituted with at least one hydroxy group, and from Cs-C24 alkanols which are ethoxylated with 10 - 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole, and mixtures of these compounds, is contained in a total amount of 0.5 - 5% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0 - 3.0% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 1.5 - 2.5% by weight, based on the weight of the agent.
[0049] According to the invention, particularly preferred glycerol mono-, di- and triesters of Cs-C24 carboxylic acids, which are ethoxylated with 7 - 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole, which may be saturated or unsaturated and are optionally substituted with at least one hydroxy group, are selected from castor oil ethoxylated with 7 - 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole, in particular PEG-10 Castor Oil, PEG-20 Castor Oil, PEG-40 Castor Oil, PEG-60 Castor Oil, PEG-80 Castor Oil, PEG-100 Castor Oil, from hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylated with 7 - 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole, in particular PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-80 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-100 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, made from glyceryl triisostearate ethoxylated with 7 - 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, in particular PEG-10 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-40 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-80 glyceryl triisostearate,from glyceryl stearate ethoxylated with 7-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, especially PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 glyceryl stearate, and from glyceryl cocoate ethoxylated with 7-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, especially PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-20 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate, and mixtures thereof. PEG-40 castor oil is particularly preferred.
[0050] Particularly preferred C8-C24 alkanols ethoxylated with 10 - 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole according to the invention have the formula R 7 O(CH2CH2O) n H, where R 7represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, represents numbers from 10-100, preferably 10-30. Preferred nonionic surfactants of this type are adducts of 10-100 mol of ethylene oxide with 1 mol of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol as well as technical mixtures thereof. Adducts of 10 - 100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols with 12 - 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are also preferred.Particularly preferred Cs-C24 alkanols ethoxylated with 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole according to the invention are selected from Ceteth-12, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-30, Isoceteth-12, Isoceteth-20, Isoceteth-30, Steareth-12, Steareth-20, Steareth-30, Isosteareth-12, Isosteareth-20, Isosteareth-30, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, Laureth-12 and Beheneth-20 and mixtures of these compounds. Ceteth-12, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-12, Steareth-20, Steareth-30, Isosteareth-12, Isosteareth-20, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, and mixtures of these compounds are particularly preferred. Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they do not contain a polymer that comprises acrylic acid, acrylic acid amides, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid, methacrylic acid amides, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidones, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, and / or styrenes as chain-forming monomers.
[0051] Anionic surfactants can interact with the at least one quaternary ammonium compound of formula (EQ-1), which can influence the viscosity of the agent in an unpredictable manner and impair the desired application properties. Further agents preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they do not contain anionic surfactant. Anionic surfactants include all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body that have a water-solubilizing anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 8 to 30 C atoms, preferably 8 to 24 C atoms in the molecule. In addition, the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups. Examples of anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium, and ammonium groups, as well as the mono-Di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps), polyethoxylated ethercarboxylic acids, acylsarcosides, acyltaurides, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 1 to 6 ethylene oxide groups, linear alkanesulfonates, linear alpha-olefinsulfonates, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with up to 6 double bonds, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids, C8-C20 alkyl sulfates and C8-C20 alkyl ether sulfates with up to 15 oxyethyl groups, hydroxysulfonates, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers, esters of tartaric acid or citric acid with ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty alcohols, optionally polyethoxylated alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, as well as monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates.
[0052] Surprisingly, it was found that the presence of at least one complexing agent can further improve the emulsion stability of the color-changing agent according to the invention. Oxidative color-changing agents preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one complexing agent selected from methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), the sodium salts of MGDA, in particular trisodium methylglycinediacetate, glutamic acid-V, / V-diacetic acid (GLDA), the sodium salts of GLDA, in particular the glutamic acid-ZV, / V-diacetic acid tetrasodium salt, iminodisuccinic acid (IDS), the sodium salts of IDS, in particular tetrasodium iminodisuccinate, and ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), in particular (S,S)-EDDS and meso-EDDS, the sodium salts of EDDS, in particular the sodium salts of (S,S)-EDDS and meso-EDDS, in particular the sodium salts of (S,S)-EDDS and meso-EDDS, as well as mixtures of these complexing agents.The at least one complexing agent, selected from methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), the sodium salts of MGDA, in particular trisodium methylglycinediacetate, glutamic acid ZV, / V-diacetic acid (GLDA), the sodium salts of GLDA, in particular glutamic acid ZV, ZV-diacetic acid tetrasodium salt, iminodisuccinic acid (IDS), the sodium salts of IDS, in particular tetrasodium iminodisuccinate, and ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), in particular (S,S)-EDDS and meso-EDDS, the sodium salts of EDDS, in particular the sodium salts of (S,S)-EDDS and meso-EDDS, in particular the sodium salts of (S,S)-EDDS and meso-EDDS, as well as mixtures of these complexing agents, is preferably present in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.15 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 2.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably from 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative color-changing agent according to the invention.
[0053] In order not to impair the application properties and the rheological properties of the agents according to the invention, agents preferred according to the invention should only contain additional surfactants other than the obligatory components b), c), d) and the optional non-ionic surfactants selected from glycerol mono-, di- and triesters of O8-O24-carboxylic acids ethoxylated with 7-100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole, which may be saturated or unsaturated and optionally substituted with at least one hydroxy group, and from O8-O24-alkanols ethoxylated with 10-100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole, in a total amount of 0 to 1.5% by weight, preferably 0 to 1.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0 to 0.5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the agent according to the invention.
[0054] Surprisingly, it has been found that the application properties of the agents (M1) according to the invention can be further improved by the addition of at least one fatty component. Further agents (M1) preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain at least one fatty component selected from oils that are liquid at 25°C and fatty components with a melting point in the range from >25°C to 120°C, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0055] Fat components according to the invention are lipophilic organic substances that have a water solubility of a maximum of 0.001 wt.% or less at 20°C. These fatty substances include oils, fats, and waxes. Linear, saturated fatty alcohols are considered nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers. Essential oils and perfume oils or fragrances are also not considered fatty substances for the purposes of the present invention.
[0056] Particularly preferred agents (M1) according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one fatty component is selected from branched and saturated or unsaturated alkanols having 6 - 30 carbon atoms, glycerol triesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated Csao fatty acids, dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched O2-Cio alkanols, esters of branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 - 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 - 30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, mineral oil, isoparaffins, polydecenes, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from branched and saturated or unsaturated alkanols having 6 - 30 carbon atoms, glycerol triesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated Cs so fatty acids,Dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched O2-C10-alkanols, esters of branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, and mixtures thereof.
[0057] Among the oils preferred according to the invention which are liquid at 25°C and which are selected from branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms are 2-octyldodecanol, 2-hexyldecanol and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, of which 2-octyldodecanol is particularly preferred.
[0058] Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 80 -fatty acids. The use of natural oils, e.g., argan oil, moringa oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, safflower oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil, and the liquid components of coconut oil and the like, as well as mixtures of these oils, may be particularly suitable. Also suitable, however, are synthetic triglyceride oils or triglyceride oils obtained by transesterification of natural oils, in particular capric / caprylic triglycerides, e.g., the commercial product Myritol® 318 (BASF) with unbranched fatty acid residues, and glyceryl triisostearin with branched fatty acid residues.
[0059] Further oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched O2-C10-alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di-(2-hexyldecyl) succinate.
[0060] Further oils which may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, and which are preferably selected from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid 2-butyloctanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-Hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, hexyldecyl stearate, hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl stearate.
[0061] Further oils that may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the O8-O22 fatty alcohol esters of monobasic or polybasic O2-O7 hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, and salicylic acid. It may be preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils.
[0062] Further agents (M1) preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one fatty component is selected from fatty components with a melting point in the range from >25°C to 120°C, preferably selected from paraffin wax, saturated n-alkanes with at least 20 carbon atoms, preferably with 22 to 60 carbon atoms, for example docosan, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), mango butter, cocoa butter and esters of saturated, monohydric Ca-CiA alcohols with saturated C12-Ci8 monocarboxylic acids, in particular stearyl laurate, cetearyl stearate, cetyl palmitate and myristyl myristate, esters of a saturated, monohydric C18-C18 alkanol and a saturated C5-C8 monocarboxylic acid, in particular cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate, O20-O40 alkyl stearate, candelilla wax, Carnauba wax and beeswax, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C12-C50 carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, in particular castor wax, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
[0063] Further agents (M1) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one fat component in a total amount of 0.1 - 5 wt.%, preferably 0.2 - 4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 3 wt.% and extraordinarily preferably 1 to 2 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent (M1).
[0064] Essential oils and perfume oils or fragrances are not considered fatty substances for the purposes of the present invention. Essential oils are understood, according to the invention, to be mixtures of volatile components produced by steam distillation from plant-based raw materials, such as citrus oils. Wherever reference is made to a cosmetic oil in this application, this always refers to a cosmetic oil that is neither a fragrance nor an essential oil, is liquid under normal conditions, and is immiscible with water.
[0065] The definition of a fragrance substance within the meaning of this application corresponds to the definition commonly used by those skilled in the art, as found in the RÖMPP Chemical Dictionary, as of December 2007. According to this definition, a fragrance substance is a chemical compound with an odor and / or taste that stimulates the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system (adequate stimulus). The necessary physical and chemical properties are a low molecular weight of a maximum of 300 g / mol, a high vapor pressure, minimal water solubility and high lipid solubility, weak polarity, and the presence of at least one osmophoric group in the molecule.In order to distinguish volatile, low-molecular-weight substances, which are usually and also within the meaning of the present application not regarded and used as fragrances but primarily as solvents, such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, and acetone, from fragrances according to the invention, fragrances according to the invention have a molecular mass of 74 to 300 g / mol, contain at least one osmophoric group in the molecule, and exhibit an odor and / or taste, i.e., they stimulate the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention (M1) are characterized in that they contain at least one essential oil, perfume oil, or fragrance, preferably in a total amount of 0.1-3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2-1 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.5-0.8 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent according to the invention.
[0066] Color-changing agents preferred according to the invention have a viscosity in the range of 3000 - 30000 mPas, preferably 4000 - 20000 mPas, particularly preferably 5000 - 15000 mPas, extraordinarily preferably 5500 - 11000 mPas, in each case measured at 20°C.
[0067] A Haake model MVII rheometer can be used for the measurement, for example at a shear rate of 7.2 revolutions per second.
[0068] Oxidative color change processes on keratin fibers typically occur in a neutral to alkaline environment. Therefore, the pH of the agent (M1) according to the invention is in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and extremely preferably 9.8 to 10.5, each measured at a temperature of 20°C.
[0069] As a further mandatory ingredient, the agent according to the invention therefore contains at least one alkalizing agent.
[0070] The alkalizing agents preferably suitable for adjusting the pH of the agents according to the invention are selected from ammonia, ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, alkali hydroxides, basic amino acids, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal disilicates, alkali phosphates and dialkali monohydrogen phosphates and mixtures of these substances.
[0071] Color-changing agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they do not contain ammonia or ammonium hydroxide.
[0072] Particularly preferred alkalizing agents are selected from alkanolamines, alkali metal hydroxides, basic amino acids, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal disilicates, alkali metal phosphates, and dialkali monohydrogen phosphates, as well as mixtures of these substances. The alkali metal ions in the aforementioned alkalizing salts are preferably lithium, sodium, or potassium, especially sodium or potassium.
[0073] The basic amino acids that can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of L-arginine, D-arginine, D,L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D,L-lysine, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred basic amino acids are L-arginine, L-lysine, and mixtures thereof.
[0074] The alkali hydroxides usable as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, as well as mixtures thereof. Potassium hydroxide is particularly preferred according to the invention.
[0075] The alkanolamines which can be used as alkalizing agents preferably have 2 to 9 carbon atoms in the molecule and are particularly preferably selected from primary amines having a C2-C6 alkyl parent structure which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof. Alkanolamines which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol; 2-aminoethan-1-ol is extremely preferred.However, secondary amines such as diisopropanolamine (1,1'-iminodipropan-2-ol) are also suitable alkalizing agents according to the invention. Particularly preferred alkalizing agents according to the invention contain 2-aminoethane-1-ol, potassium hydroxide, L-arginine, L-lysine, and mixtures thereof. Extremely preferred color-changing agents according to the invention contain a mixture of 2-aminoethane-1-ol, potassium hydroxide, L-arginine, and L-lysine.
[0076] Color-changing agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alkalizing agent is contained in a total amount of 0.5 - 10 wt.%, preferably 0.7 - 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 - 5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1.2 - 3 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the color-changing agent.
[0077] The agents according to the invention are intended for use in the context of an oxidative color change of keratin fibers, in particular human hair. In oxidative color change processes, the agent according to the invention (M1), which is neutral or alkaline and preferably contains one or more oxidation dye precursors and optionally one or more direct dyes, is usually mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-containing composition (M2) having an acidic pH immediately before application to the keratin fibers to form a ready-to-use color change agent. The agent is applied to the keratin fibers immediately after mixing. The neutral to alkaline medium of the application mixture leads to the activation of the hydrogen peroxide, which degrades the melanin in the keratin fibers.If the agent (M1) according to the invention contains oxidation dye precursors, the hydrogen peroxide causes them to react with each other and form permanent dyes. To prevent this dye formation from occurring during storage of the agent, the agents according to the invention contain zero to less than 0.1 wt.% of peroxide compounds, based on their weight.
[0078] In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention for changing the color of keratin fibers contains at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type.
[0079] Oxidation dye precursors can be divided into two categories based on their reactivity, so-called developer components and coupler components.
[0080] Coupler components do not produce significant coloration on their own during oxidative dyeing, but always require the presence of developer components. Developer components can form the actual dye on their own. The developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. However, for substances containing amino groups, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, particularly in the form of hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, or sulfates.
[0081] Particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed by p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropan-2-ol, bis-(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 1,3-bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)propan-2-ol, N,N'-Bis-(4-amino-phenyl)-1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(1 ,2-dihydroxyethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-(diethylaminomethyl)phenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2, 4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine,the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds as well as mixtures of these developer components and developer component salts.
[0082] Very particularly preferred developer components are selected from 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, p-tolylenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, and mixtures of these compounds, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts. Exceptionally preferred are 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, p-tolylenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, and mixtures of these compounds, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts.
[0083] Preferably, at least one developer component or its salt is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent (M1) according to the invention.
[0084] Preferably, at least one coupler component or its salt is present in a total amount of 0.001 to 4 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.1 to 1 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent (M1) according to the invention.
[0085] The total amount of oxidation dye precursors or salts thereof in the agent (M1) according to the invention is preferably 0.011 to 9 wt.%, preferably 0.11 to 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.6 to 3.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent (M1).
[0086] Coupler components within the meaning of the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This results in a covalent bond between the coupler and developer components. Couplers are preferably cyclic compounds that carry at least two groups on the cycle, selected from (i) optionally substituted amino groups and / or (ii) hydroxyl groups. If the cyclic compound is a six-membered ring (preferably aromatic), said groups are preferably located in the ortho or meta position to one another.
[0087] Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type is selected from one of the following classes:
[0088] - 3-aminophenol (m-aminophenol) and / or its derivatives,
[0089] - 3-aminoaniline (m-diaminobenzene) and / or its derivatives,
[0090] - 2-aminoaniline (1,2-diaminobenzene; o-diaminobenzene) and / or its derivatives,
[0091] - 2-aminophenol (o-aminophenol) and / or its derivatives,
[0092] - naphthalene derivatives containing at least one hydroxy group,
[0093] - Di- or trihydroxybenzene and / or their derivatives,
[0094] - pyridine derivatives,
[0095] - pyrimidine derivatives,
[0096] - monohydroxyindole derivatives and / or monoaminoindole derivatives,
[0097] - monohydroxyindoline derivatives and / or monoaminoindoline derivatives,
[0098] - Pyrazolone derivatives, such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
[0099] - Morpholine derivatives, such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
[0100] - Quinoxaline derivatives, such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline,
[0101] Mixtures of two or more compounds from one or more of these classes are also preferred according to the invention in this embodiment.
[0102] Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte zusätzliche Kupplerkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus 3- Aminophenol, 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, 3-Amino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 2-Hydroxy-4-aminophen- oxyethanol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-Di- chlor-3-aminophenol, 2-Aminophenol, 3-Phenylendiamin, 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1 ,3-Bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan, 1-beta-Hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylendioxyanilin, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4- (2’-hydroxyethylamino)benzol (= 2-Amino-4-Hydroxyethylaminoanisol), 1 ,3-Bis (2,4-diaminophe- nyl)propan, 2, 6-Bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1 -methylbenzol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-meth- oxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}- amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5-dimethylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-[3-Morpholin-4- ylphenyl)amino]ethanol, 3-Amino-4-(2-methoxyethoxy)-5-methylphenylamin, 1-Amino-3-bis-(2- hydroxyethyl)aminobenzol, Resorcin, 2-Methylresorcin,4-chlororesorcinol, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline or mixtures of these compounds or the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.
[0103] Particularly preferred are 3-aminophenol, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 1-naphthol, and 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures of the aforementioned components. It may be preferable to avoid resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives.
[0104] In order to achieve a balanced and subtle nuance formation or to mattify undesirable residual color impressions caused by melanin degradation products, in particular in the reddish or bluish range, it is preferred according to the invention if further color-imparting components are contained in the oxidative color-changing agent according to the invention.
[0105] In a further embodiment, the oxidative color-changing agents according to the invention can therefore additionally contain at least one direct dye. These are dyes that are absorbed directly onto the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color. Direct dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, or indophenols.
[0106] Direct dyes can be anionic, cationic, or non-ionic. The direct dyes are preferably present in an amount of 0.001 to 2% by weight, based on the weight of the oxidative color-change agent.
[0107] Preferred anionic direct dyes are the compounds known under the international names or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57:1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Bromophenol Blue and Tetrabromophenol Blue. Preferred cationic direct dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, for example Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, cationic anthraquinone dyes, such as HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B) and direct dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.The cationic direct dyes marketed under the trademark Arianor are also preferred cationic direct dyes according to the invention. Particularly suitable nonionic direct dyes are nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes. Preferred nonionic direct dyes are those known under the international designations "Arianor" and "Arianor" respectively.Handelsnamen HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1 , Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1 , HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11 , HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11 , HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 bekannten Verbindungen, sowie 1 ,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol, 2-Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1 ,4-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)- amino-2-nitrobenzol, 3-Nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitro- phenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1 -methylbenzol, 1-Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-5- chlor-2-nitrobenzol, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzol, 2-[(4-Amino-2- nitrophenyl)amino]-benzoesäure, 6-Nitro-1 ,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin, 2-Hydroxy-1 ,4-naphthochi- non, Pikraminsäure und deren Salze, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoe- säure und 2-Chlor-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.According to the invention, at least one cationic direct dye selected from Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B), Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 and mixtures thereof is very particularly preferably contained.
[0108] Further preferred agents (M1) according to the invention are characterized in that they do not contain any polymer or copolymer with acrylate-, methacrylate- or vinyl-containing monomers and no polyurethane, i.e., based on their weight, 0.0 wt.% of the aforementioned (co)polymers are contained in (M1).
[0109] Oxidative color-changing agents containing ammonia or ammonium hydroxide release ammonia during the color-changing process, so non-volatile alkalizing agents, i.e., all alkalizing agents other than ammonia or ammonium hydroxide, may be preferred according to the invention. Therefore, for some applications according to the invention, it may be preferred for the agents according to the invention not to contain ammonia or ammonium hydroxide as an alkalizing agent.
[0110] A further subject of the present invention is a packaging unit (kit of parts) which, packaged separately, comprises the following: i) at least one container (C1) containing an agent for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which agent is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, in each case based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85% by weight, preferably 50 to 80% by weight, particularly preferably 55 to 75% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 60 to 70% by weight of water, b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides of the formula R 4 O-[G] P , in the R 4represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p represents a positive rational number in the range from 1 to 6, in a total amount of 2.0 - 15.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 - 12.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 3.5 to 8.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 3.5 to 5.0 wt.%, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 8-20 wt.%, preferably 10-18 wt.%, particularly preferably 12-17 wt.%, d) at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) in a total amount of 0.3 - 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.9 - 1.5 wt.%,
[0111] R 1 represents an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent,
[0112] R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 4 stands,
[0113] R 3 independent of R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 5 stands,
[0114] R 4 and R 5 independently of one another each represent an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent,
[0115] R 6 represents a saturated alkylene group having 1, 2 or 3 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, n and p can each independently have the value 1, 2 or 3 and
[0116] X- represents a physiologically acceptable anion selected from chloride, bromide, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, methosulfate, ethosulfate and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate, e) at least one alkalizing agent, f) zero to less than 0.1% by weight of peroxide compounds, g) optionally at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type, the agent having a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range from 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range from 9.5 to 10.7, extraordinarily preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20°C, and ii) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) which contains 40-96% by weight, preferably 65 - 90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70 - 80 wt.%, water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.-%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, very particularly preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and extraordinarily preferably 6 to 12 wt.%, and has a pH in the range from 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 - 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% data are in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally comprising at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant.
[0117] In a preferred embodiment according to the invention, this kit additionally comprises a separately packaged oxidizing agent preparation (M3) containing h) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxo-sulfuric acid, and mixtures of these salts, and i) 0 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.% water, wherein the wt.% data relate in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M3), j) wherein (M3) optionally contains at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant.
[0118] With regard to further preferred embodiments of the kit preferred according to the invention, what has been said regarding the agents for oxidative color change according to the invention and preferred according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
[0119] The present invention further relates to the use of an agent according to the invention or preferred according to the invention for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers, in particular human hair. Regarding further preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, the statements regarding the agents according to the invention and preferred according to the invention for oxidative color change apply mutatis mutandis.
[0120] The present invention further provides a process for oxidative color change, which comprises the following process steps: i) providing a cosmetic agent (M1) for oxidative color change of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which contains, in each case based on its weight, the following components: a) 45 to 85% by weight, preferably 50 to 80% by weight, particularly preferably 55 to 75% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 60 to 70% by weight of water, b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides of the formula R 4 O-[G] P , in the R 4represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p represents a positive rational number in the range from 1 to 6, in a total amount of 2.0 - 15.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 - 12.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 3.5 to 8.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 3.5 to 5.0 wt.%, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 8-20 wt.%, preferably 10-18 wt.%, particularly preferably 12-17 wt.%, d) at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) in a total amount of 0.3-5 wt.%, preferably 0.5-3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.9-1.5 wt.%,
[0121] R 1 represents an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent, R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 4 stands,
[0122] R 3independent of R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 5 stands,
[0123] R 4 and R 5 independently of one another each represent an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent,
[0124] R 6 represents a saturated alkylene group having 1, 2 or 3 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, n and p can each independently have the value 1, 2 or 3 and
[0125] X- represents a physiologically acceptable anion selected from chloride, bromide, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, methosulfate, ethosulfate and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate, e) at least one alkalizing agent, f) zero to less than 0.1% by weight of peroxide compounds, g) optionally at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type, the agent having a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range from 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range from 9.5 to 10.7, extraordinarily preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20°C, and ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40-96% by weight, preferably 65- 90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70 - 80 wt.%, water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.-%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, very particularly preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and extraordinarily preferably 6 to 12 wt.%, and a pH in the range from 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 - 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.-% details refer in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one surfactant and / or an oil, iii) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), preferably in a weight ratio (M1):(M2) in the range from 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2, directly thereafter iv) applying the mixture obtained in step iii) to the hair and leaving this mixture on the hair for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably from 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30 - 60°C, preferably at 32 - 50°C, v) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vi) optionally applying an aftertreatment agent to the hair and optionally rinsing, then drying.
[0126] For oxidative hair color-changing processes, the agent according to the invention (M1), which is adjusted to an alkaline pH and optionally contains one or more oxidation dye precursors and optionally one or more direct dyes, is usually mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-containing composition (M2) to form the ready-to-use color-changing agent immediately before application to the hair. The agent according to the invention (M1) and the hydrogen peroxide-containing composition (M2) are usually matched to one another such that, at a mixing ratio of 1:1, based on parts by weight, the finished application mixture contains an initial hydrogen peroxide concentration of 0.5-12% by weight, preferably 2-10% by weight, particularly preferably 3-6% by weight of hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2), in each case based on the weight of the application mixture.However, it is equally possible to match the agent according to the invention (M1) and the hydrogen peroxide-containing composition (M2) to one another in such a way that the concentrations required in the ready-to-use oxidation color-changing agent (application mixture) are obtained by mixing ratios other than 1:1, for example by a weight-related mixing ratio of 1:2 or 1:3 or even 2:3.
[0127] According to the invention, preferred weight-related mixing ratios (M1):(M2) are in the range from 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, particularly preferably in the range from 1:1 to 1:2.
[0128] In the context of the present invention, the time specification "immediately thereafter" means a period of 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably 10 seconds to 5 minutes, particularly preferably 15 seconds to 2 minutes. In the ready-to-use mixture of (M1) and (M2) and optionally (M3) (see below), the reaction of the hydrogen peroxide with the contained reaction components begins immediately. This reaction must take place on the keratin fibers, so the reactive, ready-to-use mixture must be applied to the keratin fibers immediately after its preparation.
[0129] According to the invention, the term "room temperature" refers to the temperature in the room in which a person usually applies a hair coloring or lightening agent, i.e. usually a bathroom or a hairdressing salon, in which a temperature in the range of 10 - 29 °C prevails. Leaving the coloring or lightening application mixture in process step iv) in the color change processes according to the invention or preferred according to the invention can also take place at at least 30 °C, preferably at 30 - 60 °C, particularly preferably at 32 - 50 °C, if the hair is heated, for example, with a heat cap or with a heat lamp.
[0130] The oxidizing agent composition (M2) used in the color change kits according to the invention and preferred according to the invention as well as in the color change processes according to the invention and preferred according to the invention contains, in each case based on its weight, 40-96 wt.%, preferably 65-90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70-80 wt.%, of water.
[0131] The oxidizing agent preparation (M2) used in the color change kits according to the invention and preferred according to the invention as well as in the color change processes according to the invention and preferred according to the invention further contains, in each case based on its weight, 0.5 to 23% by weight, more preferably 2.5 to 21% by weight, particularly preferably 4 to 20% by weight, very particularly preferably 5 to 18% by weight and extraordinarily preferably 6 to 12% by weight, of hydrogen peroxide.
[0132] To stabilize the hydrogen peroxide, the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) has a pH value in the range from 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 to 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, in each case measured at 20°C.
[0133] Oxidative color change processes on keratin fibers typically occur in a neutral to alkaline environment; even a slightly acidic pH produces acceptable color results. Therefore, the pH of the agent (M1) according to the invention is in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and extremely preferably 9.8 to 10.5, each measured at a temperature of 20°C.
[0134] The ready-to-use color-changing agent obtained by mixing the agent (M1) according to the invention with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) preferably has a pH in the range of 6.5-11.5, more preferably 8.0-11.0, particularly preferably 8.5-10.8, extraordinarily preferably 9.0-10.6, further extraordinarily preferably 9.5-10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C.
[0135] If the oxidative color-changing agents according to the invention are intended to achieve a stronger lightening of the keratin fibers or to color very dark, melanin-containing keratin fibers, at least one further oxidizing agent is required in addition to hydrogen peroxide in the application mixture that is applied to the keratin fibers to break down the melanin.
[0136] Such additional oxidizing agents are often referred to as blond boosters. These are oxidizing agents that are solid under normal conditions. They are formulated as an anhydrous oxidative hair treatment agent (M3) containing at least one oxidizing agent that is solid under normal conditions.
[0137] Consequently, a further subject of the present invention is a method for the oxidative color change of keratinic fibers, in particular for lightening keratinic fibers, which comprises the following process steps: i) providing a cosmetic agent (M1) for the oxidative color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which contains, in each case based on its weight, the following components: a) 45 to 85% by weight, preferably 50 to 80% by weight, particularly preferably 55 to 75% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 60 to 70% by weight of water, b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides of the formula R 4 O-[G] P , in the R 4represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p represents a positive rational number in the range from 1 to 6, in a total amount of 2.0-15.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0-12.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 3.5 to 8.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 3.5 to 5.0 wt.%, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 8-20 wt.%, preferably 10-18 wt.%, particularly preferably 12-17 wt.%, d) at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) in a total amount of 0.3-5 wt.%, preferably 0.5-3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.9-1.5 wt.%,
[0138] R 1 represents an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent,
[0139] R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 4 stands,
[0140] R 3 independent of R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 5 stands,
[0141] R 4 and R 5 independently of one another each represent an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent,
[0142] R 6 represents a saturated alkylene group having 1, 2 or 3 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, n and p can each independently have the value 1, 2 or 3 and
[0143] X- represents a physiologically acceptable anion selected from chloride, bromide, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, methosulfate, ethosulfate and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate, e) at least one alkalizing agent, f) zero to less than 0.1% by weight of peroxide compounds, g) optionally at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type, the agent having a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range from 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range from 9.5 to 10.7, extraordinarily preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20°C, and ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40-96% by weight, preferably 65- 90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70 - 80 wt.%, water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.-%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, very particularly preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and extraordinarily preferably 6 to 12 wt.%, and a pH in the range from 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 - 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% data relate in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally comprising at least one surfactant and / or an oil, and iii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M3) different from (M2), comprising h) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, and mixtures of these salts, and i) and 0 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.% water, wherein the wt.-% details are each based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M3), j) where (M3) optionally contains at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant, iv) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) and (M3), where it is preferred that the aforementioned components (M1), (M2) and (M3) are composed with regard to the weight ratio (M1):(M2):(M3) of the three components to one another such that the weight ratio (M1):(M2) is in the range from 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2, and (M3) is present in an amount of 5 - 25 wt.%, preferably 7 - 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 7.5 - 17 wt.-%, based on the weight of the total mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3), immediately thereafter v) applying the mixture obtained in step iv) to the hair and leaving this mixture on the hair for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30 - 60°C, preferably at 32 - 50°C, vi) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vii) optionally applying an after-treatment agent to the hair and optionally rinsing, then drying.
[0144] Preferably, the at least one oxidizing agent which is solid under normal conditions is selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, mixtures of these salts, sodium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, sodium perborate and mixtures of at least one salt of a peroxosulfuric acid and an oxidizing agent selected from sodium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, sodium perborate and mixtures thereof.
[0145] Peroxosulfuric acids include peroxodisulfuric acid and peroxomonosulfuric acid (Caro's acid).
[0146] According to the invention, the at least one inorganic salt of a peroxosulfuric acid is preferably selected from ammonium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, alkali metal peroxomonosulfates, and alkali metal hydrogen peroxomonosulfates. Particular preference is given to potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxodisulfate, and potassium hydrogen peroxomonosulfate, as well as mixtures thereof. Furthermore, it has proven particularly preferred in the work on the present invention if the anhydrous oxidative hair treatment agent (M3) according to the invention contains at least two different peroxodisulfates. Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate mixtures, potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures, and potassium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures.Particularly preferred are mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, and extremely preferred are mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate with an excess of potassium peroxodisulfate, which are free of sodium peroxodisulfate. Particularly preferred mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate (KPS) and ammonium peroxodisulfate (APS) according to the invention, which are free of sodium peroxodisulfate, are those with a KPS / APS weight ratio in the range of 4:1-2:1, preferably 3.5:1-2.5:1, particularly preferably 3.2:1-2.8:1.
[0147] Preferably used anhydrous oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) according to the invention contain at least one oxidizing agent selected from inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 5-85 wt.%, preferably 10-70 wt.%, particularly preferably 17-55 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 22-45 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent (M3).
[0148] The oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) used according to the invention are anhydrous, which in the sense of the present invention means that they contain, in each case based on their weight, 0 to 12 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 9 wt.% water.
[0149] This information refers to the free water content. The content of molecularly bound water or water of crystallization, which individual powder components may contain, is not taken into account. The water content can be determined, for example, using Karl Fischer titration based on ISO 4317 (version 2011-12).
[0150] Alkalizing agent
[0151] For the melanin-degrading effect of the hydrogen peroxide and the bleaching effect on the keratinic fiber, it is advantageous if the application mixture of agent (M1), hydrogen peroxide solution (M2) and persalt-containing oxidative hair treatment agent (M3) has a pH value in the range of 6.5 - 11.5, more preferably 8.0 - 11.0, particularly preferably 8.5 - 10.8, extraordinarily preferably 9.0 - 10.6, further extraordinarily preferably 9.5 - 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C.
[0152] To adjust an alkaline pH of the ready-to-use mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3), oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) preferably used according to the invention can contain, in addition to the at least one persalt which is solid under normal conditions, at least one alkalizing agent which is solid under normal conditions in such a total amount that the ready-to-use mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3) has the desired alkaline pH.
[0153] Oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) preferably used according to the invention are therefore characterized by containing at least one inorganic alkalizing agent that is solid at 20°C and 1013 mbar. Oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) particularly preferably used according to the invention contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent that is solid at 20°C and 1013 mbar in a total amount of 4-70 wt.%, preferably 10-65 wt.%, particularly preferably 15-60 wt.%, extremely preferably 20-55 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent (M3).
[0154] Further oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent which is solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, including, in a total amount of 0.1 to 50 wt. %, preferably 4 to 30 wt. %, particularly preferably 15-25 wt. %, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent, at least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably 2.5-3.5.
[0155] In addition to the at least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably 2.5-3.5, in a total amount of 0.1-50 wt.%, preferably 4-30 wt.%, particularly preferably 15-25 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent (M3), as optional alkalizing agent, further inorganic alkalizing agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention and are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar are selected from alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal hydroxide carbonates, alkaline earth metal carbonates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, (alkali) earth metal phosphates and (alkali) earth metal hydrogen phosphates and mixtures of these substances.Particularly preferred inorganic alkalizing agents according to the invention, which are solid at 20°C and 1013 mbar, are, in addition to the at least one obligatory sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate, each with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably from 2.5 to 3.5, selected from magnesium hydroxide carbonates and mixtures of these alkalizing agents. Magnesium hydroxide carbonates preferred according to the invention are those with the formula MgCOs ■ Mg(OH)2 ■ 2 H2O and those with the formula MgCOs ■ Mg(OH)2. Magnesium hydroxide carbonate with the formula MgCOs ■ Mg(OH)2 is particularly preferred according to the invention.
[0156] Oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) which are particularly preferably used according to the invention contain, in each case based on their total weight, 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 4 - 30% by weight, particularly preferably 15 - 25% by weight, of sodium silicates with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably from 2.5 to 3.5, and 2 - 40% by weight, preferably 5 - 35% by weight, particularly preferably 10 - 32% by weight of magnesium hydroxide carbonate as inorganic alkalizing agents which are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar.
[0157] Surprisingly, it has further been found that an application mixture with further optimized application properties is obtained if the agent (M1) according to the invention or preferred according to the invention is mixed with an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) which contains at least one cationic surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.05-3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1-1.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.5-0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) used according to the invention contains at least one cationic surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.05-3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1-1.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.5-0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0158] Cationic surfactants are surfactants, i.e., surface-active compounds, each with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain exclusively positive charges. These surfactants are typically composed of a hydrophobic moiety and a hydrophilic head group. The hydrophobic moiety usually consists of a hydrocarbon backbone (e.g., consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl groups), and the positive charge(s) are located in the hydrophilic head group. Cationic surfactants adsorb at interfaces and aggregate in aqueous solution above the critical micelle concentration to form positively charged micelles.
[0159] According to the invention, cationic surfactants of the alkylamidoamine, quaternary ammonium compound and esterquat type are preferred.
[0160] Alkylamidoamines have the general structural formula R 1 -CO-NH-(CH2)n-NR 2 R3 where R 1 represents a long-chain, mostly linear alkyl radical derived from natural or synthetic fatty acids, i.e., preferably a linear C13-C23 alkyl radical that is saturated or unsaturated. The index n is preferably a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4. The radicals R 2 and R 3 preferably independently represent a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3each with a methyl group. Alkylamidoamines are typically produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid fragments with short-chain dialkylaminoamines. In acidic medium, the alkylamidoamines are permanently protonated, i.e., cationic. Particularly preferred compounds from this substance group according to the invention are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, and palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, as well as mixtures thereof, in particular mixtures of stearamidopropyldimethylamine and behenamidopropyldimethylamine.
[0161] Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. Further preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are tetraalkylammonium salts, such as, in particular, Quaternium-52, a poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl), ((octadecylnitrilio)tri-2,1-ethanediyl)tris(hydroxy)phosphate (1:1) salt, which has the general structural formula (III), where x + y + z = 10.
[0162] The long alkyl groups of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 22, particularly preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms. Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride are particularly preferred, with stearyltrimethylammonium chloride being extremely preferred. Further cationic surfactants suitable according to the invention are quaternized protein hydrolysates.
[0163] C10-C22-alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides have proven to be particularly suitable with regard to optimum application properties and optimum color results. Particularly preferred oxidizing agent preparations (M2) used according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one cationic surfactant in a total amount of 0.05-3 wt. %, particularly preferably 0.1-1.5 wt. %, extraordinarily preferably 0.3-0.9 wt. %, based in each case on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), wherein preferably at least one surfactant selected from C10-C22-alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in particular selected from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, as well as mixtures of these surfactants, is present. Extraordinarily preferred oxidizing agent preparations (M2) used according to the invention contain stearyltrimethylammonium chloride in a total amount of 0.05-3 wt.-%, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 1.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably from 0.3 to 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0164] A further preferred packaging unit according to the invention (kit of parts) is characterized in that the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0165] A further preferred packaging unit according to the invention (kit of parts) is characterized in that the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, which is preferably selected from at least one alkylamidoamine, in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0166] A preferred method for oxidative hair coloring according to the invention is characterized in that the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0167] A further preferred method according to the invention for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers is characterized in that the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, which is preferably selected from at least one alkylamidoamine, in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0168] Application mixtures with a pasty consistency lead to optimal application properties, especially for brush application. The application mixtures thus obtained, especially with weight-based mixing ratios (M1):(M2) in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably have a viscosity in the range of 10,000–100,000 mPas, preferably 12,000–80,000 mPas, particularly preferably 15,000–40,000 mPas, each measured at 20°C using a Brookfield rotational viscometer at a rotation frequency of 4 min. -1 with spindle 5.
[0169] Application mixtures with a medium viscosity consistency lead to optimal application properties, especially for bottle application. The resulting application mixtures, especially with weight-based mixing ratios (M1):(M2) in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably have a viscosity in the range of 3,500–20,000 mPas, preferably 4,000–15,000 mPas, particularly preferably 5,000–10,000 mPas, each measured at 20°C using a Haake Model MVII rheometer at a shear rate of 7.2 revolutions per second.
[0170] Further ready-to-use mixtures of the color-changing agent according to the invention or preferred according to the invention and the hydrogen peroxide solution preferably have a viscosity in the range of 5000-20000 mPas, preferably 6000-18000 mPas, particularly preferably 6500-15000 mPas, extraordinarily preferably 7000-12000 mPas, in each case measured at 20°C.
[0171] A Haake model MVII rheometer can be used for the measurement, for example at a shear rate of 7.2 revolutions per second.
[0172] Surprisingly, it has also been found that an application mixture with further optimized application properties is obtained when the agent (M1) according to the invention or preferred according to the invention is mixed with an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing xanthan gum, preferably 1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 1.5 to 4% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 2-3% by weight of xanthan gum, based in each case on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). Xanthan gum, as a natural and thus sustainable polymer, supports the application properties. Furthermore, the consistency of the application mixture achieved with xanthan gum leads to optimal application properties, for example, for bottle application.The application mixtures thus obtained, in particular with weight-related mixing ratios (M1):(M2) in the range from 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, particularly preferably in the range from 1:1 to 1:2, preferably have a viscosity in the range from 3500 - 8000 mPas, preferably 4000 - 7000 mPas, particularly preferably 4500 - 6500 mPas, extraordinarily preferably 5000 - 6000 mPas, in each case measured at 20°C with a Haake model MVII rheometer at a shear rate of 7.2 revolutions per second.
[0173] Preferred oxidizing agent preparations (M2) used according to the invention contain at least one surfactant or one emulsifier, but only in minor amounts.
[0174] In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) used according to the invention are characterized in that their surfactant and emulsifier content is from zero to a maximum of 3.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 to 2.0 wt. %, particularly preferably from 1.0 to 1.5 wt. %, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). Higher amounts of surfactant could possibly impair the good application properties of the agents according to the invention in the ready-to-use agent.
[0175] Preferred surfactants and emulsifiers in (M2) are selected from cationic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers and mixtures thereof.
[0176] Surprisingly, it has been found that an application mixture with a viscosity suitable for application and drip-free retention on the hair is obtained by mixing the agent (M1) according to the invention or preferred according to the invention with an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing at least one oil, preferably at least one oil in a total amount of 0.5-40 wt. %, preferably 1-25 wt. %, particularly preferably 3-20 wt. %, extraordinarily preferably 5-17 wt. %, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). The resulting consistency of the application mixture leads to optimal application properties, for example, for bottle application.The application mixtures thus obtained, in particular with weight-related mixing ratios (M1):(M2) in the range from 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, particularly preferably in the range from 1:1 to 1:2, preferably have a viscosity in the range from 3500 - 8000 mPas, preferably 4000 - 7000 mPas, particularly preferably 4500 - 6500 mPas, extraordinarily preferably 5000 - 6000 mPas, in each case measured at 20°C with a Haake model MVII rheometer at a shear rate of 7.2 revolutions per second.
[0177] Further oxidizing agent preparations (M2) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one oil. The at least one oil is preferably selected according to the invention from mineral oils, branched fatty alcohols having 8-24 carbon atoms, dialkyl ethers having 6 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl groups, esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Mineral oil is particularly preferred. Kits, uses, and methods preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the composition (M2) used for their preparation contains—based on its weight—at least one oil in a total amount of 0.5-40 wt.%, preferably 1-25 wt.%, particularly preferably 3-20 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 5-17 wt.%.
[0178] Further kits, uses and methods preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the composition (M2) used for their preparation contains - based on its weight - at least 0.5-40 wt.%, preferably 1-25 wt.%, particularly preferably 3-20 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 5-17 wt.%, mineral oil.
[0179] The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it thereto.
[0180] Examples
[0181] The following dye or composition (M1) was prepared (oil-in-water emulsion, all amounts in wt.%), which represents the alkalization component (M1) of a two-part oxidative dye:
[0182] Table 1: Coloring component in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (M1)
[0183] The following oxidation compositions (M2) were prepared (all amounts in wt%): Table 2: Oxidant-containing developer (M2-1) for the coloring cream from Table 1
[0184] Viscosity: 4500 mPas, measured at 20°C with a rotational viscometer (Haake VT 550) at a rotation frequency of 4 min -1 with measuring geometry MV II
[0185] Table 3: Developer emulsion (M2-2) (6 wt.% H2O2)
[0186] Table 4: Developer emulsion (M2-3) (9 wt% H2O2) Table 5: Developer emulsion (M2-4) (12 wt.% H2O2)
[0187] Table 6: Developer emulsion (M2-5) (6 wt% H2O2)
[0188] Coloring
[0189] To produce ready-to-use oxidative coloring agents, the agent (M1-1) according to the invention was mixed in a weight ratio of 1:1 with one of the oxidizing agent preparations (M2-1), (M2-2), (M2-3), (M2-4) or (M2-5).
[0190] With the oxidative dyes prepared in this way, a wide viscosity range from 3000 to 8000 mPas (20°C) could be achieved, each tailored to the requirements of a shake application with an application bottle (rather lower viscosity) and a tray application (rather higher viscosity).
[0191] The oxidative dyes prepared in this way were applied in a defined amount (4 g of oxidative dye per 1 g of yak hair) to flat strands of yak hair (12 strands per oxidative dye) and left on the strands for a contact time of 30 minutes at 32°C. The remaining dyes were then rinsed out of the strands with lukewarm water for 2 minutes, and the strands were first towel-dried and then blow-dried. Intensely colored strands were obtained.
[0192] When applying the aforementioned coloring agents according to the invention to the hair of test subjects, the agents could be easily prepared homogeneously by mixing components (M1) and (M2) by hand. They were then effortlessly applied to the hair to be colored and remained there for the 30-minute exposure time without dripping. Here, too, intense and homogeneous colorations were achieved along the entire length of the keratin fibers.
[0193] Table 7: Alkalization components in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (M1)
[0194] The alkalization components M1-E2 and M1-V had a pH value of 9.9, each measured at 20°C.
[0195] The 1:1 mixtures of the alkalizing components (M1-E2) and (M1-V) with the developer emulsion (M2-1) were tested on 24 people. They were asked about their subjective perceptions after application. A dermatologist assessed the objective parameters of erythema and rash. The higher the score, the more adverse scalp reactions were observed. The colorant according to the invention is significantly more scalp-compatible than the comparison colorant.
[0196] The test results of the open patch test presented below are considered representative for determining scalp tolerance and are therefore transferable to scalp tolerance. Test description of the open patch test
[0197] Each ready-to-use bleaching agent (1:1 mixture of the alkalizing components (M1-E2) or (M1-V) with the developer emulsion (M2-1)) was applied to the skin on the inner forearms of 24 volunteers in an open patch test, taking into account a specific randomization scheme.
[0198] The test products were applied repeatedly every 30 seconds by the volunteers to a defined area of skin on the inner forearm. The application, subsequent incubation, and assessment process took 45 minutes for each test area. The products were then rinsed off with tap water, and the skin was gently dried with a paper towel.
[0199] Objective skin irritation (erythema and rashes) was assessed by a trained technician 10, 20, and 30 minutes after the start of product application using a predefined scale (erythema: 0-4; rashes: 0-3).
[0200] During product application, subjects rated their subjective sensations and perceptions (itching, burning, tingling, stinging, heat sensation) every 5 minutes using a predefined scale (0-3). The results are presented in the following tables.
[0201] The 1:1 mixtures of the alkalizing components (M1-E2) and (M1-V) with the developer emulsion (M2-1) were tested on 24 people. They were asked about their subjective perceptions after application. A dermatologist assessed the objective parameters of erythema and rash. The higher the score, the more adverse scalp reactions were observed. The colorant according to the invention is significantly more scalp-compatible than the comparison colorant.
[0202] Summary of the mean irritation score (MIS) for the objective and subjective skin reactions: objective skin irritation for comparison product M1-V objective skin irritation for the inventive product M1-E2 Subjective skin irritation for comparison product (M1-V): subjective skin irritation for the product according to the invention M1-E2
[0203] The data show that the comparative formulation M1-V had a higher irritation potential than the inventive formula M1-E2. The advantages of the inventive formula M1-E2 were particularly evident in terms of the improvement in objective sensations.
Claims
Patent claims: 1 . An agent for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which contains, in each case based on its weight, the following components: a) 45 to 85% by weight, preferably 50 to 80% by weight, particularly preferably 55 to 75% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 60 to 70% by weight of water, b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides of the formula R 4 O-[G] P , in the R 4represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p represents a positive rational number in the range from 1 to 6, in a total amount of 2.0 - 15.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 - 12.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 3.5 to 8.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 3.5 to 5.0 wt.%, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 8-20 wt.%, preferably 10-18 wt.%, particularly preferably 12-17 wt.%, d) at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) in a total amount of 0.3 - 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.9 - 1.5 wt.%, wherein R 1 represents an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent, R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 4 stands, R3 independent of R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 5 stands, R 4 and R 5 independently of one another each represent an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent, R 6 represents a saturated alkylene group having 1, 2 or 3 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, n and p can each independently have the value 1, 2 or 3 and X- represents a physiologically acceptable anion selected from chloride, bromide, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, methosulfate, ethosulfate and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate, e) at least one alkalizing agent, f) zero to less than 0.1% by weight of peroxide compounds, g) optionally at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type, the agent having a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range from 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range from 9.5 to 10.7, extraordinarily preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C.
2. Agent according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one alkyl mono- or oligoglycoside of the formula R 4 O-[G] P is selected from caprylyl glucoside, capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, n-tetradecyl glucoside, cetyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, behenyl glucoside and mixtures of these glucosides, in particular mixtures called cocoglucoside, mixtures of caprylyl glucoside and capryl glucoside and mixtures of caprylyl glucoside, capryl glucoside and cocoglucoside.
3. Agent according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms is selected from octan-1-ol, decan-1-ol, dodecan-1-ol, tetradecan-1-ol, hexadecan-1-ol, octadecan-1-ol, eicosane-1-ol, docosane-1-ol, (13E)-docosen-1-ol (brassidyl alcohol), (13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol (erucyl alcohol) and lanolin alcohol and mixtures thereof.
4. Agent according to one of claims 1-3, characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) is selected from compounds in which the substituent R 1 CO- is selected from cocoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, 12-hydroxystearoyl, isostearoyl, oleoyl, linoleoyl, eicosanoyl and behenoyl.
5. Agent according to one of claims 1-4, characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) is selected from compounds in which the substituent R 2for -O(CO)R 4 stands and Group R 4 (CO) is selected from cocoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, 12-hydroxystearoyl, isostearoyl, oleoyl, linoleoyl, eicosanoyl and behenoyl.
6. Agent according to one of claims 1-5, characterized in that at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from glycerol mono-, di- and triesters of Ca-C24 carboxylic acids ethoxylated with 7-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, which may be saturated or unsaturated and optionally substituted with at least one hydroxy group, and from Ca-C24 alkanols ethoxylated with 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, and mixtures of these compounds.
7. Agent according to claim 6, characterized in that the at least one non-ionic ethoxylated surfactant is present in a total amount of 0.5 - 5 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 - 3.0 % by weight, particularly preferably 1.5 - 2.5 % by weight, based on the weight of the agent.
8. Agent according to one of claims 1-7, characterized in that it does not contain anionic surfactant.
9. Agent according to one of claims 1-8, characterized in that it does not contain a polymer which comprises acrylic acid, acrylic acid amides, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid, methacrylic acid amides, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidones, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol and / or styrenes as chain-forming monomer.
10. Agent according to one of claims 1-9, characterized in that at least one complexing agent selected from methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), the sodium salts of MGDA, in particular trisodium methylglycinediacetate, glutamic acid ZV, ZV-diacetic acid (GLDA), the sodium salts of GLDA, in particular glutamic acid ZV, ZV-diacetic acid tetrasodium salt, iminodisuccinic acid (IDS), the sodium salts of IDS, in particular tetrasodium iminodisuccinate, and ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), in particular (S,S)-EDDS and meso-EDDS, the sodium salts of EDDS, in particular the sodium salts of (S,S)-EDDS and meso-EDDS, in particular the sodium salts of (S,S)-EDDS and meso-EDDS, as well as mixtures of these complexing agents, is included.
11. Agent according to one of claims 1-10, characterized in that the alkalizing agent e) is selected from ammonia, ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, alkali hydroxides, basic amino acids, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal disilicates, alkali phosphates and dialkali monohydrogen phosphates and mixtures of these substances.
12. Use of an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers, in particular human hair.
13. A method for oxidative color change, comprising the following process steps: i) providing a cosmetic agent (M1) for oxidative color change of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, according to one of claims 1 to 11, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, in each case based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85% by weight, preferably 50 to 80% by weight, particularly preferably 55 to 75% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 60 to 70% by weight of water, b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides of the formula R 4 O-[G] P , in the R 4 represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p represents a positive rational number in the range from 1 to 6, in a total amount of 2.0 - 15.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 - 12.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 5.0 to 10.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 6.0 to 8.0 wt.%, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 8 - 20 wt.%, preferably 10 - 18 wt.%, particularly preferably 12-17 wt.%, d) at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) in a total amount of 0.3 - 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.9 - 1.5 wt.%, R 1 represents an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent, R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 4 stands, R 3 independent of R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 5 stands, R 4 and R 5independently of one another each represent an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent, R 6 represents a saturated alkylene group having 1, 2 or 3 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, n and p can each independently have the value 1, 2 or 3 and X- represents a physiologically acceptable anion selected from chloride, bromide, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, methosulfate, ethosulfate and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate, e) at least one alkalizing agent, f) zero to less than 0.1% by weight of peroxide compounds, g) optionally at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type, the agent having a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range from 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range from 9.5 to 10.7, extraordinarily preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20°C, and ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40-96% by weight, preferably 65- 90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70 - 80 wt.%, water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.-%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, most preferably 5 to 18 wt.-. % and extremely preferably 6 to 12 wt.%, and a pH in the range from 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 - 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.-% figures refer in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant, iii) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), preferably in a weight ratio (M1):(M2) in the range from 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2, directly thereafter iv) applying the mixture obtained in step iii) to the hair and leaving this mixture on the hair for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably from 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30 - 60°C, preferably at 32 - 50°C, v) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vi) optionally applying an aftertreatment agent to the hair and optionally rinsing, then drying.
14. A method for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers, in particular for lightening keratin fibers, which comprises the following method steps: i) providing a cosmetic agent (M1) for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, according to one of claims 1 to 11, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, in each case based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85% by weight, preferably 50 to 80% by weight, particularly preferably 55 to 75% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 60 to 70% by weight of water, b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides of the formula R 4 O-[G] P , in the R 4represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p represents a positive rational number in the range from 1 to 6, in a total amount of 2.0 - 15.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 - 12.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 5.0 to 10.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 6.0 to 8.0 wt.%, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 8 - 20 wt.%, preferably 10 - 18 wt.%, particularly preferably 12-17 wt.%, d) at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) in a total amount of 0.3 - 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.9 - 1.5 wt.%, (EQ-1), where R 1 represents an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent, R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R4 stands, R 3 independent of R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 5 stands, R 4 and R 5 independently of one another each represent an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent, R 6 represents a saturated alkylene group having 1, 2 or 3 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, n and p can each independently have the value 1, 2 or 3 and X- represents a physiologically acceptable anion selected from chloride, bromide, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, methosulfate, ethosulfate and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate, e) at least one alkalizing agent, f) zero to less than 0.1% by weight of peroxide compounds, g) optionally at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type, the agent having a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range from 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range from 9.5 to 10.7, extraordinarily preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C, ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40-96% by weight, preferably 65-90 % by weight, particularly preferably 70 - 80 % by weight, water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 % by weight, more preferably 2.5 to 21 % by weight.-%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, very particularly preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and extraordinarily preferably 6 to 12 wt.%, and a pH in the range from 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 - 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% data in each case relate to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally comprising at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant, and iii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M3) different from (M2), comprising h) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a. Peroxosulfuric acid, and mixtures of these salts, and i) and 0 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.% water, wherein the wt.% data relate in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M3), j) wherein (M3) optionally contains at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant, iv) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) and (M3), wherein it is preferred that the aforementioned components (M1), (M2) and (M3) are composed with respect to the weight ratio (M1):(M2):(M3) of the three components to one another such that the weight ratio (M1):(M2) is in the range from 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2, and (M3) is present in an amount of 5-25 wt.%, preferably 7-20 wt.%, particularly preferably 7.5-17 wt.%, based on the weight of the entire mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3), directly thereafter v) applying the mixture obtained in step iv) to the hair and leaving this mixture for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30-60°C, preferably at 32-50°C on the hair, vi) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vii) if appropriate, applying a post-treatment product to the hair and, if appropriate, rinsing, followed by drying.
15. Packaging unit (kit of parts) which, when packaged separately, comprises the following: i) at least one container (C1) containing an agent for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, according to one of claims 1 to 11, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, in each case based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85% by weight, preferably 50 to 80% by weight, particularly preferably 55 to 75% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 60 to 70% by weight of water, b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides of the formula R 4 O-[G] P , in the R 4represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p represents a positive rational number in the range from 1 to 6, in a total amount of 2.0 - 15.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 - 12.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 5.0 to 10.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 6.0 to 8.0 wt.%, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 8-20 wt.%, preferably 10-18 wt.%, particularly preferably 12-17 wt.%, d) at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (EQ-1) in a total amount of 0.3 - 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.9 - 1.5 wt.%, R 1 represents an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent, R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 4 stands, R 3independent of R 2 for H, OH or -O(CO)R 5 stands, R 4 and R 5 independently of one another each represent an aliphatic alk(en)yl radical having 7 to 23 carbon atoms with 0, 1 or 2 double bonds, which optionally carries at least one substituent, R 6 represents a saturated alkylene group having 1, 2 or 3 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, n and p can each independently have the value 1, 2 or 3 and X- represents a physiologically acceptable anion selected from chloride, bromide, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, methosulfate, ethosulfate and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate, e) at least one alkalizing agent, f) zero to less than 0.1% by weight of peroxide compounds, g) optionally at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type, the agent having a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range from 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range from 9.5 to 10.7, extraordinarily preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20°C, and ii) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) which contains 40-96% by weight, preferably 65 - 90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70 - 80 wt.%, water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.-%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, very particularly preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and extraordinarily preferably 6 to 12 wt.%, and has a pH in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 - 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% data in each case relate to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant, and iii) optionally a separately packaged oxidizing agent preparation (M3), comprising h) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, and mixtures of these salts, and i) 0 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.% water, wherein the wt.% data in each case relate to the weight the oxidizing agent preparation (M3), j) wherein (M3) optionally contains at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant.
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