Coloured powders of natural origin and uses

Abstract

The present invention relates to an insoluble coloured powder comprising the association of: (i) a natural or naturally derived coloured compound or a coloured extract containing same, and (ii) a nitrogen-containing compound of formula (I), in which (II) represents a single or double bond, R1 and R3 are each independently absent or selected from among H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to four, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced with O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R2 and R4 are each independently selected from among H, an oxo group, a thioxo group, an NRxRy group, a halogen, or an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to four, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced with O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), Rx and Ry represent, independently of each other, H or a C1-C6 alkyl, R5 and R6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, a thioxo group, or an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to four, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced with O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), or R5 and R6, together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded, form an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group. The invention also relates to its uses in care and / or make-up compositions for keratin materials.

Description

[0001]DESCRIPTION Colored powders of natural origin and uses FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, and in particular colored powders of natural origin. STATE OF THE ART Cosmetic products, in particular makeup products, use synthetic pigments or dyes, but consumers, looking for more natural and environmentally friendly ingredients, are driving the development of new pigments that are more natural but just as effective and offer a wider range of colors. However, the natural pigments currently available on the market have poor coverage, are not very stable in light, and have low vibrancy. There is therefore a need to develop new pigments (otherwise known as colored powders) based on natural colored compounds and / or colored extracts of plant origin that meet these needs.The Applicant has rightly shown that the use of a nitrogen compound of formula (I), in association with natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or colored extracts containing them, makes it possible to obtain colored powders having improved properties in terms of stability to light and pH, vividness of the shade, and coverage. These colored powders are in particular obtained by a step of solubilization of the nitrogen compound of formula (I), to fix, in a non-covalent manner, the natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or extracts containing them, inside or on the surface of the crystal formed by the compound of formula (I). These colored powders of natural origin thus constitute an interesting alternative to synthetic pigments.STATEMENT OF THE INVENTIONA first subject of the invention is a colored powder comprising the combination of: (i) a natural colored compound or of natural origin or a colored extract containing it, and (ii) a nitrogenous compound of formula (I). in which represents a single or double bond, R 1 and R 3 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R 2 and R 4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, NR group x R y , a halogen, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12 optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), Rx and R y represents, independently of each other, H or a C1-C6 alkyl, R 5 and R 6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12 optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), or R 5 and R 6form together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group. Preferably, the colored powder does not comprise a metal salt of aluminum or zinc. In particular, the colored powder according to the invention is insoluble. By "insoluble colored powder" is meant according to the invention a powdery colored material (in the form of particles) insoluble in water, in ethanol, or in water / ethanol mixtures in all proportions, at a concentration of 0.5% by weight, at room temperature (25°C). The nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, constitutes a natural support having a high refractive index (1.8). The colored compounds and / or extracts are adsorbed on the surface and / or inside the crystal formed by the guanine, thus creating a colored pigment (otherwise called colored powder according to the invention),of a more vivid shade and with better coverage than the proposals currently on the market.Advantageously, moreover, the process for preparing the colored powder according to the invention does not involve any metallic salt. This new colored powder therefore constitutes an interesting alternative to synthetic pigments, of natural origin (excluding animal origin), with improved properties in terms of stability to pH and light, coverage and vivacity, compared to the natural pigments currently on the market. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the colored powder according to the invention does not comprise a metallic salt of aluminum or zinc. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the colored powder according to the invention comprises a magnesium salt.The invention also relates to a process for preparing a colored powder as defined in the invention,comprising the following steps:i) Solubilization of said nitrogen compound of formula (I) in a preferably basic aqueous solution, ii) Solubilization of one or more natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or extracts thereof (water-soluble compound ii), in an aqueous or ethanolic solution, optionally acidified iia), or alternatively solubilization of one or more natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or extracts thereof (liposoluble compound ii), in an organic solvent, in particular a carbonyl solvent iib),iii) Introduction of the solution obtained in i) into a colored solution obtained inii), optionally in the presence of acid for the aqueous solution, to co-precipitate the nitrogen compound of formula (I) and the natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or a colored extract thereof and form said colored powder, iv) Separation of the liquid phase from the solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation,v) Rinsing said colored powder obtained in iv) with ethanol and separating the liquid phase from said solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation, vi) Rinsing said colored powder obtained in v) with water and separating the liquid phase from said solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation, vii) Drying said colored powder. As a basic solution, a solution comprising water and NaOH may be used in particular. As an acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or acetic acid may be used in particular. The drying step may be carried out in particular by zeodration,freeze-drying or oven drying. Another subject of the invention is a pigment paste comprising a colored powder as defined in the invention and one or more oils. It also relates to a process for preparing a pigment paste as defined above comprising the following steps: i) Grinding said colored powder as defined in the invention, and ii) Mixing with one or more oils. The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a colored powder as defined in the invention or a pigment paste as defined in the invention, and one or more additional ingredients chosen from oils, C1-C5 monoalcohols, glycols, surfactants, fillers, gelling or structuring agents, film-forming agents, cosmetic active ingredients, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes,and mixtures thereof. Another subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Colored powderA first subject of the invention is therefore a colored powder comprising the combination of: (i) a natural colored compound or of natural origin or a colored extract containing it, and (ii) a nitrogenous compound of formula (I) in which represents a single or double bond, R, 1 and R 3 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R 2 and R 4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, NR groupx R y , a halogen, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12 optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R x and R y represents, independently of each other, H or a C1-C6 alkyl, R 5 and R 6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12 optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), or R 5 and R 6form together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group. Natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or a colored extract containing them (compound i) The composition of the invention comprises at least one natural or naturally occurring colored compound or a colored extract containing them. By "natural colored compound" according to the invention is meant a colored compound that is obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as for example grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.By "colored compound of natural origin" according to the invention, we mean a natural colored compound having undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications not affecting the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound comprising mainly natural constituents having or not undergone transformations, as indicated above. As a non-limiting example of additional chemical or industrial treatment resulting in modifications not affecting the essential qualities of a natural compound, we can mention those authorized by control organizations such as Ecocert (Reference for organic and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine", 2005, vol. 120, 9:10). By "colored extract" according to the invention, we mean an extract containing one or more natural colored compounds or those of natural origin as defined above.This colored extract will preferably be natural or of natural origin according to the preceding definitions and preferably, it will be a colored extract of plant origin. By "colored extract of natural origin" according to the invention, we mean an extract containing one or more colored compounds derived from plant material or from a secretion of plant material. They can in particular come from any part of a plant, such as roots, stems, trunks, leaves, flowers, fruits, and mixtures thereof. They can also come from plant secretions, produced in particular in reaction to or in prevention of stress. These colored extracts of plant origin can be obtained by grinding, by extraction with water or solvents, or with supercritical CO2, by chemical or enzymatic attack or by a combination of these means.Natural colored compounds or compounds of natural origin or extracts containing them that can be used in cosmetics are notably cited in Annex IV of Regulation (EC) No. 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 relating to cosmetic products. According to a particular embodiment, the natural or naturally occurring compounds that can be used in the colored powder of the invention are chosen from the following compounds: curcumin, lactoflavin (or riboflavin), b-carotene, capsanthin / capsorubin, lycopene, caramel, chlorophyll (or copper-chlorophyll complex), indigo, carmine, anthocyanins (e.g. cyanidin, delphinidin, pelargonidin, peonidin, or malvidin), betalains and their derivatives, violacein and deoxy violacein, flavonoids, or a natural extract containing them, and mixtures thereof. The person skilled in the art will know, for example, how to choose the type of anthocyanin depending on the desired color.For example, it will advantageously use pelargonidin for rather red pigments and delphinidin for rather blue pigments. According to a first particular embodiment, the colored powder according to the invention comprises a natural or naturally water-soluble colored compound, or an extract containing it. As a natural or naturally water-soluble colored compound, mention may in particular be made of curcumin, lactoflavin, caramel, chlorophyll, anthocyanins, betalains and their derivatives, violacein and deoxy violacein, flavonoids, or a natural extract containing them, and mixtures thereof. , preferably curcumin, lactoflavin, caramel, chlorophyll, anthocyanins, betalains and their derivatives, flavonoids, or a natural extract containing them, and mixtures thereof. According to a first particular embodiment, the colored powder according to the invention comprises a natural or naturally fat-soluble colored compound, or an extract containing them.As natural or naturally occurring fat-soluble colored compound, beta-carotene, capsanthin / capsorubin and lycopene may be mentioned in particular. Extracts containing them, in particular plant extracts, may also be used. As anthocyanin-rich colored extract of plant origin, there may be mentioned in particular extracts of black carrot, elderberry, hibiscus, blackcurrant, purple corn, black potato, purple potato, red cabbage, red onion, black grape, cranberry, strawberry, raspberry, black soybean, aronia, radish, redcurrant, blueberry, cherry, eggplant and black rice, preferably radish or hibiscus. As extracts rich in betalains and their derivatives, there may be mentioned in particular beetroot extracts. As a curcumin-rich colored extract of plant origin, there may be mentioned turmeric extract. As a colored extract of plant origin rich in beta-carotene, we can notably cite extracts of carrot, sweet potato, pumpkin.As a colored extract of plant origin rich in Capsanthin / Capsorubin, we can cite in particular paprika extracts. Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the natural colored compound or of natural origin is chosen from water-soluble natural colored compounds and lipid-soluble natural colored compounds, in particular curcumin, lactoflavin, caramel, chlorophyll, indigo, carmine, anthocyanins, betalains and their derivatives, violacein and deoxy violacein, flavonoids, and their mixtures, preferably curcumin, lactoflavin, caramel, chlorophyll, anthocyanins, betalains and their derivatives, flavonoids, or a natural extract containing them, and their mixtures. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, a colored compound chosen from anthocyanins, curcumin, and their mixtures will be used. Preferably, the total content of natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or colored extract containing them ranges from 0.01 to 15%, in particular from 0.1 to 10%, or even 0.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said colored powder. A person skilled in the art will adjust the content according to the colored compound. According to a particular embodiment, anthocyanins will be used in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said colored powder. According to another particular embodiment, curcumin will be used in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said colored powder. The colored powder according to the invention also comprises at least one nitrogenous compound of formula (I) as defined below.Nitrogenous compound of formula (I) (compound ii)The composition according to the invention therefore comprises at least one compound of formula (I). in which represents a single or double bond, R 1 and R 3are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R 2 and R 4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, NR group x R y , a halogen, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12 optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R x and R y represents, independently of each other, H or a C1-C6 alkyl, R 5 and R 6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), or R 5 and R 6 form together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group. It is understood that in the compound of formula (I), represents a single or double bond such that each ring atom is neutral. In other words, each ring nitrogen atom has a valence of 3 and each ring carbon atom has a valence of 4. In some embodiments, R 1 and R 3 are each independently absent or selected from H and a C1-C6 alkyl group, including alkyl. In some embodiments, R 2 and R 4are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, NR group x R y and a C1-C6 alkyl group, especially an alkyl. Preferably, R 2 and R 4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, and NH2 group. Typically, at least one of R 2 and R 4 represents an oxo or thioxo group. Preferably, R 4 represents an oxo or thioxo group, in particular an oxo group. In certain embodiments, R 5 and R 6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group and a C1-C6 alkyl group, including a methyl group. In other embodiments, R 5 and R 6form together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular an optionally substituted phenyl, or an optionally substituted imidazole group. Preferably, the aryl group, in particular phenyl, or imidazole is optionally substituted by one or more, preferably 1 to 2, substituents chosen from the group consisting of a C1-C6 alkyl group, OH and O-C1-C6 alkyl group, for example a methoxy group. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a compound of formula (I) corresponding to the following formula (IA): in which R 7 is selected from H, C1-C6 alkyl, oxo, OH, thioxo, SH and O-C1-C6 alkyl, and R 1 to R 4 are as defined above, and R 8 and R 9 are each independently absent or selected from H, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl). R 7 is selected in particular from H and an oxo group. Preferably, in (IA), R 1 and R 3 are independently absent or represent H, R 2 is selected from H, an oxo group and NH2, R 4 is an oxo group and R 7 is selected from H and an oxo group.In a particular embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is selected from: According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a compound of formula (I) chosen from the following compounds of formula (IA): preferably xanthine, hypoxanthine, uric acid and guanine, more preferably xanthine, hypoxanthine, and guanine, more preferably guanine.Preferably, in the compound of formula (IA), R 1 is absent, R 2 is an NH2 R group 3 is H and R 4 is an oxo group. In this embodiment, the compound of formula (I) corresponds to guanine of the following formula: By “aliphatic chain in [C x -C y ] ", for the purposes of the present invention, means a saturated, linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain comprising x to y, in particular 1 to 12, carbon atoms. According to the invention, an aliphatic chain covers substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl groups. By "(C x -C y) », is understood, for the purposes of the present invention, to mean a saturated, linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, comprising x to y, preferably x to y, carbon atoms. By way of example, mention may be made of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, pentyl or hexyl groups. By “(C x -C y) », is understood, for the purposes of the present invention, to mean a monovalent, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising at least one double bond and comprising x to y carbon atoms, with x greater than or equal to 2. By way of example, mention may be made of ethenyl, propenyl, allyl, butenyl, pentenyl, or hexenyl groups. By “(Cx-Cy) alkynyl” group is understood, for the purposes of the present invention, a monovalent, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising at least one triple bond and comprising x to y carbon atoms, with x greater than or equal to 2. By way of example, mention may be made of ethynyl, propynyl, butynyl, pentynyl, or hexynyl groups. By “halogen atom” is understood, for the purposes of the present invention, fluorine, chlorine, bromine and iodine atoms.For the purposes of the present invention, the term "aryl" means an aromatic hydrocarbon group, preferably comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and comprising one or more fused rings, such as, for example, a phenyl or naphthyl group. Advantageously, this is phenyl. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "heteroaryl" or "heteroaromatic" means an aromatic group comprising 5 to 10 cyclic atoms, including one or more heteroatoms, advantageously 1 to 4 and even more advantageously 1 or 2, such as, for example, sulfur, nitrogen or oxygen atoms, the other cyclic atoms being carbon atoms. Examples of heteroaryl groups are furyl, thienyl, pyrrolyl, pyridinyl, imidazolyl, triazolyl, tetrazolyl, oxazolyl, isoxazolyl, thiazolyl, isothiazolyl, pyrazolyl, oxadiazolyl, thiadiazolyl, pyridazinyl, pyrimidinyl, pyrazinyl, triazinyl, quinolyl, isoquinolyl, quinoxalyl or indyl.By "optionally substituted" is meant, for the purposes of the present invention, that the group in question is optionally substituted by one or more, preferably 1 to 4 and in particular 1 or 2, substituents chosen from the group consisting of a halogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, OH, oxo, aryl, N3, CN NO2, aralkyl, NR. a R b , COR c , CO2R d , CONR e R f , and OR g , in which R a to R grepresents, independently of one another, H, C1-C6alkyl, C1-C6haloalkyl or aryl, preferably H or C1-C6alkyl. Preferably, the substituent is chosen from a C1-C6alkyl group, an oxo group or NRaRb. According to a particular embodiment, the compound of formula (Ia) is guanine. Guanine (CI 75170) used according to the invention is generally in the form of a white to light yellow powder. It can be obtained from natural crystals (for example from fish scales), having undergone specific grinding (e.g.: air jet type powder mill) to form non-interfering particles having a size of less than 30µm, preferably less than 15µm. By "size of a particle" is meant its D50 or volume average size,corresponding to the particle size defined so that 50% by volume of the particles have a size less than D50. The volume average size can be evaluated by light diffraction using a Malvern MasterSizer laser granulometer, said particles to be evaluated being dispersed in a liquid medium such as for example octyldodecyl neopentanoate. According to a particular embodiment, the guanine particles according to the invention have a size ranging from 0.5 to 30µm, in particular from 1 to 15µm. According to another particular embodiment, the compound of formula (Ia) is xanthine. According to another particular embodiment, the compound of formula (Ia) is hypoxanthine. In particular according to the invention,the natural or naturally occurring colored compound or an extract thereof containing (i) is adsorbed on the surface and / or inside the crystal formed by said nitrogen compound of formula (I). This “complexed” form between the colored compound and the nitrogen compound of formula (I) results from the step of solubilizing the nitrogen compound of formula (I), making it possible to fix, in a non-covalent manner, the natural or naturally occurring colored compound or an extract thereof containing (i) on the surface or inside the crystals of said nitrogen compound of formula (I). The content of nitrogen compound of formula (I), preferably guanine, in the colored powder of the invention, will range in particular from 45 to 99% by weight, in particular from 50 to 99% by weight, for example from 65 to 99%, in particular from 70 to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the colored powder. According to certain particular modes, the content of nitrogen compound of formula (I), preferably guanine, will represent from 45 to 99% by weight, in particular from 50 to 99%,relative to the total weight of the colored powder. According to particular embodiments, the nitrogen compound of formula (I), preferably guanine, will represent: - from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the colored powder, or - from 50 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the colored powder, or - from 60 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the colored powder, or - from 85 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the colored powder, or - from 90 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the colored powder, or - from 90 to 97% by weight relative to the total weight of the colored powder. Powders suitable for the invention, based on guanine and a colored compound chosen from anthocyanins and curcumin, were thus obtained according to the process of the invention and comprise: Guanine [50-99%] + Anthocyanins [0.5-10%] + Citric acid [0.1-5%] Guanine [50-99%] + Anthocyanins [1-10%] + Citric acid [0.1-5%] Guanine [90-98%] + Anthocyanins [1-10%] + Citric acid [0.[1-5%] Guanine [85-95%] + Anthocyanins [0.5-10%] + Citric acid [0.1-5%] Guanine [90-95%] + Curcumin [0.5-5%] + Citric acid [0.1-5%] Guanine [60-70%] + Anthocyanins [1-10%] + Citric acid [0.1-5%] Guanine [40-60%] + Anthocyanins [1-10%] + Citric acid [0.1-5%] Guanine [50-70%] + Anthocyanins [1-10%] + Citric acid [0.1-5%]. Other powders with other nitrogen compounds of formula (I) can also be obtained according to the process of the invention and with similar proportions of substrate (nitrogen compound of formula (I)) and natural or naturally occurring colored compound. Process for preparing the colored powder Generally speaking, according to the process for preparing the colored powder of the invention, the nitrogen compound of formula (I) (compound i) is solubilized in an aqueous solution,then the solution is introduced into an aqueous or ethanolic colored solution comprising the natural or naturally occurring colored compound or an extract containing it (compound ii) inducing the coprecipitation of the nitrogen compound of formula (I) and the colored compound, leading to the formation of a colored powder (or colored pigment). The colored powder is then rinsed with ethanol and / or water and then dried. Thus, the invention also relates to a process for preparing a colored powder as defined in the invention, comprising the following steps: i) Solubilization of said nitrogen compound of formula (I) (compound i) in an aqueous solution, preferably basic, ii) Solubilization of one or more natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or an extract containing it (water-soluble compound ii), in an aqueous or ethanolic solution, optionally acidified iia),or alternatively solubilization of one or more natural colored compounds or compounds of natural origin or extract containing them (fat-soluble compound ii), in an organic solvent, in particular carbonyl iib), iii) Introduction of the solution obtained in i) into a colored solution obtained in ii), optionally in the presence of acid for the aqueous solution, to co-precipitate the nitrogen compound of formula (I) and the natural colored compounds and / or colored extracts of plant origin and form said colored powder, iv) Separation of the liquid phase from the solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation, v) Rinsing of said colored powder obtained in iv) with ethanol and separation of the liquid phase from said solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation, vi) Rinsing of said colored powder obtained in v) with water and separation of the liquid phase from said solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation, and vii) Drying of said colored powder. According to a preferred embodiment,in solubilization step (ii), the natural or naturally occurring colored compound(s) or extract(s) containing them is soluble in an aqueous or ethanolic solution, preferably soluble in an aqueous solution.According to a first embodiment, the natural colored compounds are water-soluble. The colored powders according to the invention are for example prepared at room temperature according to the following protocol:1. Solubilize the guanine in a basic aqueous solution,2. Solubilize the natural colored compound in an aqueous solution or an organic solvent miscible with water (Example: ethanol), acidified if necessary,3. Transfer the guanine solution into the dye solution while stirring,4. Add acid to precipitate if necessary and leave in contact for the necessary time,5. Separate the liquid from the solid (by filtration or centrifugation),6. Wash the solid with ethanol,7. Separate the liquid from the solid again,8. Wash the solid with water,9. Separate the liquid from the solid again, 10. Dry the solid (preferably cold), and 11. Grind. According to another method, the natural colored compounds are fat-soluble. The colored powders according to the invention are, for example, prepared at room temperature according to the following protocol: 1. Solubilize the guanine in a basic aqueous solution, 2. Solubilize the natural colored compound in an aqueous solution or an organic solvent (Example: acetone), acidified if necessary, 3. Transfer the guanine solution into the dye solution while stirring, 4. Add acid to precipitate if necessary and leave in contact for the necessary time, 5. Separate the liquid from the solid (by filtration or centrifugation), 6. Wash the solid with ethanol, 7. Separate the liquid from the solid again, 8. Wash the solid with water, 9. Separate the liquid from the solid again, 10. Dry the solid (preferably cold), and 11. Grind. Paste, Another subject of the invention is a pigment paste comprising a colored powder as defined in the invention and one or more oils. It also relates to a process for preparing a pigment paste as defined above comprising the following steps: i) Grinding of said colored powder as defined in the invention, and ii) Mixing with one or more oils. A pigment paste may comprise one or more colored powders. According to a first embodiment, the pigment paste comprises a single colored powder (a single color). According to another embodiment, the pigment paste comprises several colored powders according to the invention (mixture of colors). According to a particular embodiment, the colored powder is subjected to at least one dry grinding step.Among the various dry grinding processes, it is possible to use powder mills by friction, collision, or a combination thereof, making it possible to obtain fine to very fine grinding qualities (D50 < 30µm or even < 15µm), such as air jet mills (or neutral gas) or pin mills, in particular the air jet mill. In particular, it is possible to use air jet mills or pin mills, more preferably the air jet mill. The skilled person will use the powder mills according to the supplier's recommendations. The drying step is carried out in particular by heating, preferably via an oven at a temperature greater than or equal to 60°C, for a period ranging from 1 to 8 hours, and / or by contact with a flow of dry air. The drying step makes it possible to eliminate the water and thus increase the covering power of the colored powder. This step can be carried out using an oven.The oil(s) that can be used for preparing the pigment pastes according to the invention may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof. By "oil" is meant a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant according to the invention an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. By "silicone oil" is meant according to the invention an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. Preferably, hydrocarbon oils will be used. Mention may in particular be made of linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, C synthetic ethers. 10 -C 40 , synthetic esters in C 10 -C 40 , fatty alcohols in C 12 -C 26 , higher C fatty acids 12 -C 22, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the pigment pastes according to the invention will comprise at least one ester oil. Among the (polar) “ester oils”, mention may in particular be made of: - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, propyl gallate; glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;- fatty acid esters, in particular with 4 to 22 carbon atoms,- synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1+R2 is ≥16, such as, for example, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate,2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate;- esters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70;- esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;- esters of fatty alcohols or branched C24-C28 fatty acids;- polyesters resulting of the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated; and mixtures thereof. According to a particular method, the pigment paste comprises a hydrocarbon oil chosen from hydroxylated esters, synthetic esters and mixtures thereof,preferably hydroxylated esters.The colored powder according to the invention or the pigment paste according to the invention may be formulated in cosmetic compositions further comprising at least one additional ingredient. Cosmetic composition Thus, the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a colored powder as defined in the invention or a pigment paste as defined in the invention, and one or more additional ingredients chosen from oils, C1-C5 monoalcohols, glycols, surfactants, fillers, gelling or structuring agents, film-forming agents, cosmetic active ingredients, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, and mixtures thereof. By "cosmetic composition" according to the invention is meant any composition for cosmetic purposes, i.e. aesthetic,which can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratin materials, in particular human skin and / or lips. By "physiologically acceptable medium" according to the invention is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratin materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response. By "keratin materials" according to the invention is meant the skin and / or its appendages, and more particularly human skin and / or lips. In particular, this will be the skin of the face and / or neck and / or body, and lips. The keratin materials in the context of the invention are healthy, that is to say not presenting any disorders or disorders which would be a pathological condition ("non-healthy" subjects,affected by a pathology). We will speak indifferently of healthy skin and / or lips or skin and / or lips in the rest of the description. As oils in the composition, we can notably cite the oils as described above for pigment pastes. By "fillers" we mean particles of any shape, in particular platelet-like, spherical or oblong, colorless or white, of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to confer a mattifying effect. The "fillers" may or may not be surface-coated, and, in particular, they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids,fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. The fillers are generally chosen from mineral or organic fillers. Examples include silicas, micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, zinc and titanium oxides; cellulose powders; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate; boron nitride; bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, calcium silicate; lauroyl lysine powder fermented by saccharomyces such as the product GRANPOWDER; lauroyl lysine; clays; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid (PMMA) powders; crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders,coated or not with silicone resin; silicone resin powders (INCI name polymethylsilsesquioxane); powders of organic materials of natural origin such as starch powders such as corn, wheat, rice starches, crosslinked or not, powders of plant origin, such as rice powders, cotton powders, silk powders, and mixtures thereof. Gelling agents that may be mentioned include mineral gelling agents, such as bentones, and polymeric gelling agents such as polysaccharide or acrylic gelling agents. Structuring agents that may be mentioned include fatty substances, pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, the term "fatty substance" means a solid compound or a compound comprising a solid fraction at 25°C. Examples include butters, waxes, pasty compounds, and mixtures thereof. By "pasty fatty substance" is meant a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising at a temperature of 25°C,a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The fatty substances may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to denote a compound that is solid at 25°C and has a reversible solid / liquid state change and a melting point greater than 30°C, preferably greater than 45°C. The composition may also comprise additional pigments, distinct from the colored powder according to the invention. The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored particles, inorganic (mineral) or organic, insoluble in the aqueous phase in which they are dispersed, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit made with the composition. Mention may be made of mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials). Among the "mineral pigments", mention may be made of,for example black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxides, ferric blue, carbon black, and mixtures thereof. Among the “organic pigments” there may be mentioned in particular lakes obtained from dyes such as D&C Black No.2, FD&C Blue No.1, FD&C Green No.3, D&C Green No.5, D&C Orange No.4, D&C Orange No.5, D&C orange No.10, D&C No. red 3, D&C Red No.6, D&C Red No.7, D&C red No.9, D&C red No.13, D&C red No.19, D&C Red No.21, D&C Red No.22, D&C Red No.27, D&C Red No.28, D&C Red No.30, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No.36, FD&C Red No.40, FD&C Yellow No.5, FD&C Yellow No.6, D&C Yellow No.10 carbon black and cochineal carmine-based lakes. Pearlescent pigments are, for example, chosen from mica coated with titanium oxide, mica-titanium coated with iron oxide, mica-titanium coated with ferric blue, mica-titanium coated with chromium oxide,or tin oxide; mica-titanium coated with an organic pigment as described above, as well as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises organic pigments, in particular chosen from D&C dyes and cochineal carmine-based lakes, as mentioned above. The composition of the invention may be an anhydrous composition. By "anhydrous composition", it is meant in particular that water is not deliberately added to the composition of the invention but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition,or is completely free of water. According to a particular embodiment, the composition is free of water. According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise an aqueous phase. The aqueous phase of the composition comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent. According to the invention, the term 'water-soluble solvent' means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). Examples include: - lower C1-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof, preferably ethanol; - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, preferably C3-C5 glycols; - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, and mixtures thereof. Galenic According to a particular embodiment,the composition of the invention is a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular a composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips. It may be in the form of a lotion, a dispersion, a gel, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a multiple emulsion, an anhydrous composition, a compact powder, a loose powder, a solid composition such as a stick, a poured into a dish, a balm. As a skin care composition, mention may in particular be made of a cream or serum for the face and / or neck. As a lip care composition, mention may in particular be made of a lip balm. As a skin makeup composition, mention may in particular be made of a foundation, a foundation base, a foundation powder, a complexion corrector, an eyeshadow, or a blush. Lip makeup includes lipstick,a lip stick, a lip liner, a lip lacquer, a lip balm, or a gloss. According to another particular embodiment, the composition is a composition for the skin, in particular a foundation or a foundation powder. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a composition for the face or the lips, in particular a face powder or a composition for the lips in the form of a stick, balm, gloss or lip lacquer. According to a particular embodiment, the composition is a composition for the lips, in particular an anhydrous composition for the lips. According to another embodiment, the composition is a composition for the nails, in particular a nail polish. According to another embodiment, the composition is for the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows. Cosmetic processAnother subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials comprising the application to said keratin materials,of a composition as defined in the invention. The compositions used in the cosmetic process according to the invention are as described above. Applied to keratin materials, the composition of the invention provides color. The use of the colored powder of the invention makes it possible to have a color of good liveliness, and which is stable to light and pH, making it possible to facilitate the formulation of care and makeup products even under restrictive pH conditions, and making it possible to obtain improved color properties and shade ranges in the final compositions. The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. The % are expressed as % by weight of ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition,unless otherwise stated. EXAMPLESExample 1: Preparation of a colored powder on a guanine supportGuanine (CI 75170) is used as a substrate. 1.1 Process with a hydrophilic natural compoundDifferent natural colored compounds were used: cyanidin (anthocyanin), radish juice (anthocyanin), beetroot juice, and curcumin respectively, and made it possible to obtain the corresponding colored powders.The colored powders are prepared at room temperature according to the following protocol:1. Solubilize the guanine in a basic aqueous solution (NaOH 1N),2. Solubilize the natural colored compound in an aqueous solution or an organic solvent miscible with water (Example: ethanol), acidified if necessary (for example with acetic acid),3. Transfer the guanine solution into the dye solution while stirring,4. Add acid to precipitate if necessary and leave in contact for the necessary time,5. Separate the liquid from the solid (by filtration or centrifugation), 6. Wash the solid with ethanol, 7. Separate the liquid from the solid again, 8. Wash the solid with water, 9. Separate the liquid from the solid again, 10. Dry the solid (preferably cold), e.g. by zeodration or freeze-drying, and 11. Grind. 1.2 Process with a lipophilic natural compound Lipophilic natural colored compounds such as beta-carotene or lycopene make it possible to obtain the corresponding colored powders. The colored powders are prepared at room temperature according to the following protocol: 1. Solubilize guanine in a basic aqueous solution (1N NaOH), 2. Solubilize the natural colored compound in an aqueous solution or an organic solvent (Example: acetone), acidified if necessary (for example: acetic acid), 3. Transfer the guanine solution into the dye solution while stirring,4. Add acid to precipitate if necessary and leave in contact for the necessary time, 5. Separate the liquid from the solid (by filtration or centrifugation), 6. Wash the solid with ethanol, 7. Separate the liquid from the solid again, 8. Wash the solid with water, 9. Separate the liquid from the solid again, 10. Dry the solid (preferably cold), for example by zeodration or lyophilization, and 11. Grinding. Powders based on guanine and a colored compound chosen from anthocyanins and curcumin could thus be obtained according to the process of the invention and comprise: Guanine [45-99%] + Anthocyanins [0.5-10%] + Citric acid [0.1-5%], in particular: Guanine [50-99%] + Anthocyanins [0.5-10%] + Citric acid [0.1-5%] Guanine [50-99%] + Anthocyanins [1-10%] + Citric acid [0.1-5%] Guanine [90-98%] + Anthocyanins [1-10%] + Citric acid [0.1-5%] Guanine [85-95%] + Anthocyanins [0.5-10%] + Citric acid [0.1-5%] Guanine [90-95%] + Curcumin [0.5-5%] + Citric acid [0.[1-5%] Guanine [60-70%] + Anthocyanins [1-10%] + Citric acid [0.1-5%] Guanine [40-60%] + Anthocyanins [1-10%] + Citric acid [0.1-5%] Guanine [50-70%] + Anthocyanins [1-10%] + Citric acid [0.1-5%].Example 2: Comparative study with other processesThe colored powder used in these tests is a guanine-cyanidin powder obtained according to the process described in Example 1.1, in particular a guanine-cyanidin powder comprisingGuanine [50-99%] + Cyanidin [0.5-10%] + Citric acid [0.1-5%].Different tests were carried out under the following conditions:- with and without metal (Mg),- with guanine compared to allantoin (another nitrogen compound outside invention), - with and without solubilization step. In this study the magnesium salt used was magnesium acetate tetrahydrate. The reagent modifications were made isomolar. The colored powders obtained were then evaluated according to their yield (expressed in %),their coverage (expressed in %) and their stability to light (delta E between control and test), according to the following protocols: The yield is calculated from the mass of dry pigment obtained (colored powder) and the masses of reagents used (anthocyanin or extract + metallic salt + guanine) according to the formula:, Coverage measurement: - Preparation of a varnish with 4% colored powder ground in a varnish base; in the 125ml tank of an E-max grinder, the colored powder, the nail polish base and the glass beads are weighed; the tank is then hermetically sealed and placed in the grinder (at +10°C); a pre-grinding is carried out for 5 minutes at 500 rpm; then a long grinding is carried out for 15 minutes at 2000 rpm; at the end of the grinding, the glass beads are removed from the varnish and the latter is packaged in a 120ml pillbox; placed on a barrel-roller for several hours to eliminate bubbles. -The varnish is spread evenly (300µm spread) on a contrast card (e.g. Leneta 2A) and then dried;- The dry spread is analyzed with a spectrophotometer (MA98, at 45° to the specular angle). In the results described below in Table 1, the coverage is expressed as a percentage: 100% indicates that there is no color difference between the partblack and white part of the contrast map after spreading; then, by comparison between the white side and the black side, we obtain a % coverage. Measurement of stability to light - The contrast card of the varnish is cut and one part is irradiated with the Suntest (765W / m2 for 10 hours with a 'window glass' filter) and the other put in the dark; - The color of the 2 mini-cards is measured with the spectrophotometer; - The color variation between the two samples makes it possible to obtain the Delta E. The lower the Delta E, the more stable the color is to light. The results are presented in the following table 1: [Table 1] Conditions Process Yield in Coverage Stability to % light (delta E between control and suntest) With solubilized guanine cyanidine74.5% 73.2% 2.8 (stable)solubilized in acidified EtOH (invention) + guanine solubilized in 1N NaOH. Mixing of the 2 reagents, then washing with ethanol then with water then drying With solubilized guanine cyanidine 39.0% 75.5%3.1 solubilized + in acidified EtOH Mg + Mg solubilized in water + guanine solubilized in 1N NaOH. Mixture of the 3 reagents, then wash with ethanol then with water then dry With allantoin solubilized cyanidin Not applicableNot applicable Not applicablesolubilized in acidified EtOH (no powder (comparative) + allantoin obtained) solubilized in 1N NaOH. Mixture of the 2 reagents, then wash with ethanol then with water then dry With allantoin solubilized cyanidin2.3% YieldNot measurable solubilized + in acidified EtOH too low for Mg (comparative) + Mg solubilized in water + allantoin solubilized in 1N NaOH. Mixture of the 3 reagents, then washing with ethanol then with water then drying Without solubilized cyanidin compound4.2% yieldNot measurable nitrogen + Mg in acidified EtOH too low for reliable measurement + Mg solubilized in water + NaOH Mixture of the 3 reagents, then washing with ethanol then with water then drying With guanine Cyanidin65.9% 64.6% 12.5(non-powder solubilized in stable) (comparative) Acidified EtOH + powdered guanidine Mixture of the 2 reagents then washing with ethanol then with water then drying With guanine Cyanidin 35.5% 68.9% 15.4 (non-powder + Mg solubilized in stable) (comparative) Acidified EtOH + Mg Mixture of the 2 reagents then addition of powdered guanidine, then washing with ethanol then with water then drying These results show in particular that: - Allantoin (another nitrogen compound distinct from the nitrogen compounds of formula (I) defined in the present invention) does not make it possible to obtain a colored powder according to the invention; and - when the dye and the support are solubilized, the color of the pigment (colored powder) is intense, vivid and stable to light. This is not the case when the support (guanine here) is not solubilized. The solubilization of the reagents therefore allows pigmentation (formation of the colored powder). These results thus show that the colored powder according to the invention, obtained by a step ofsolubilization of the substrate (e.g. guanine) and formation of a complex with a colored compound (e.g. cyanidin), allows to obtain the best results in terms of yield, coverage and stability to light, compared to other conditions. The addition of a magnesium salt reduces the yield but allows to further improve the coverage, so may nevertheless be of interest. These results were confirmed with another colored compound: curcumin, mixed with guanine substrate, in the following two comparative conditions: - mixture of 0.04 g Curcumin + 1.96 g Guanine with solubilization of guanine (invention) - mixture of 0.04 g Curcumin + 1.96 g Guanine without solubilization of guanine (comparative) [Table 2] Conditions Process Coverage Light stability (delta E between control and suntest) With guaninecurcumin solubilized in 46.9 17.5 (not stable) powder (comparative) Acidified EtOH + guanidine powder Mixture of the 2 reagents then washing with ethanol then withwater then drying With guanine curcumin solubilized in 29.6 9.33 (stable) solubilized acidified EtOH (invention) + guanine solubilized in 1N NaOH. Mixing of the 2 reagents, then washing with ethanol then with water then drying These additional results with curcumin confirm that the colored powder according to the invention, obtained by a step of solubilization of the substrate (e.g. guanine) and formation of a complex with a colored compound (e.g. curcumin), makes it possible to obtain the best results in terms of coverage and light stability, compared to the condition without a step of solubilization of the substrate. Example 3: Evaluation of the properties of the colored powders of the invention Different colored powders were prepared on guanine support according to the protocol described in example 1.1, respectively with the following natural colored compounds: cyanidin, raids, beet juice and curcumin. These colored powders (otherwise called 'guanine-colored compound complex' in thisexample), were evaluated for their stability at pH and respectively at light and pH according to the following protocols, compared to natural colored compounds alone: ​​Visual evaluation of pH stability (tests at pH = 4 and pH = 8): The color of the solution of the compound alone and the corresponding colored powder at the same concentration are observed with the naked eye at different pHs. Visual evaluation of stability at light and pH (tests at pH = 4 and pH = 8): The color of the solution of the compound alone and the corresponding colored powder at the same concentration are observed with the naked eye, before and after exposure to natural light. The results are presented in the following Table 2: [Table 3] pH stability Stability at pH and T0 (pH 4 and pH 8) light T + 2 days at light (pH 4 and pH 8) Cyanidin (RC1980) Color variation Discoloration (control) Complex Guanine-Stable color Stable color cyanidin* (invention) Radish (cerocol red) Color variationDiscolorationradish) (control)Guanine complex-Stable colorStable colorradish* (invention)Beetroot juiceStable color Discoloration(control) Guanine complex-Stable colorStable colorbeetroot juice* (invention) Curcumin (RC-Color variationStable color0609) (control)Guanine complex-Stable colorStable colorcurcumin* (invention) *colored powders prepared according to the protocol described in Example 1.1. These results show that the colored powders (guanine-colored compound complexes) according to the invention have better stability to pH and light than the natural colored compounds alone. These colored powders according to the invention were also evaluated for the vividness of their color, compared to commercial pigments (natural or synthetic). Color vividness can be assessed by eye or by a measure of the vividness index calculation: - Color measurements allow access to the values ​​L, a, b, C, h (CIE color space)LAB). The vividness index is calculated with the following formula: The colored powder 'guanine-radish' is more vivid than the pigment New Red 1805. The colored powder 'guanine-curcumin' is more vivid than the pigment Sunpuro Yellow Iron Oxide and the J1 Yellow Pigment. Example 4: Preparation of a colored powder on different supports, respectively guanine, xanthine and hypoxanthine. The colored compound used is curcumin. The substrate used is guanine, xanthine or respectively hypoxanthine. The colored powders are prepared according to the protocol described in Example 1.1. The colored powders obtained were evaluated according to different criteria: coverage, color (L, C, h, a and b), coloring strength and yield, according to the following protocols: Coverage and light stability were evaluated as described in Example 2. The vividness index was evaluated as described in Example 3. Color and coloring strength were evaluated according to the following protocols: Measurement of thepowder color on photo -The color of the powder is measured on photos taken under the same lighting and exposure conditions (Canon EOS 250D, 85mm lens; manual setting f20, 1 / 15s, ISO 200) -The measurement is done via Image J image analysis software. -The colored powder is ground in a mixture in a suitable oil to obtain a colored paste;- The colored paste is mixed with a commercial white MCL (White Filler and Binder Medium) (50% ground TiO2 in a suitable oil) in a ratio of 1 to 4;- The mixture is ground until a homogeneous paste is obtained; a degraded paste is obtained;- The degraded paste is spread homogeneously (0.5 mm thick) on a contrast card then the color is measured with a spectrophotometer (MA98, at 45 ° to the specular angle). The results are presented in the following table 3: [Table 4] Cover Strength Yield Delt nce L* C* h° a* b*colorante ent a E Curcumin + 80, 103, 83, 11, 103, 7.7 G uanine 23,6 37 76 76 2815 90.54 90.50%8 Curcumin + 83, 109, 86, 109, 5.3 7.3 H ypoxanthine 33,947 8 17 681 44.5 69.10%5 All the results show that the colored powders obtained according to the invention have good coverage (> 20), and good light stability (Delta E < 8). Furthermore, the liveliness indices, calculated from the values ​​of L, a, b, C, h (CIELAB color space) as described in Example 3, are greater than 5, indicating significant liveliness. Example 5: Formulations The colored powders according to the invention are used as conventional pigments, and are formulated in the formulations according to conventional formulation methods, generally with a pre-dispersion step in one of the solvents of the formulation for better dispersion in the composition. 5.1 Lip balm [Table 5] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight Silice 10Nylon powder 7Polyethylene wax 17Glycerin 14Isopropyl myristate Qsp100Butylene glycol 5Colored powder on guanine carrier* 1* prepared according to Example 15.2 Lip stick[Table 6] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weightCaprylic / capric acid triglycerides (60 / 40) 2Lauric / palmitic / cetylic / stearic acid glycerides 2 (50 / 20 / 10 / 10) Isopropyl isostearate 7 C ire de candelilla 11 Rice starch 1alpha-D-Glucopyranoside, beta-D-30 fructofuranosyl, 2-methylpropanoate H acetate uile de colza 6.5 Hydrogenated olive oil myristyl esters 2Colored powder on guanine support* 5Hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters Qsp100* prepared according to example 1 5.3 Nail polish [Table 7] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weightNitrocellulose 11 N-Ethyl-o,p-toluenesulfonamide 5Alkyd resin 10 Isopropanol 4Colored powder on guanine support* 5Butyl acetate / ethyl acetate 50 / 50 Qsp100* prepared according to example 1

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Poudre colorée comprenant l’association de : (i) a natural or naturally occurring colored compound or a colored extract containing it, and (ii) a nitrogenous compound of formula (I) in which represents a single or double bond, R 1 and R 3 are each independently absent or selected from H, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12 optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R 2 and R 4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, NR group x R y , a halogen, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12 optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R x and R yrepresents, independently of each other, H or a C1-C6 alkyl, R 5 and R 6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo group, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), or R 5 and R 6 together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded form an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group, characterized in that it does not comprise a metal salt of aluminum or zinc.

2. Poudre colorée selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce qu’elle est insoluble.

3. Poudre colorée selon la revendication 1 à 2, caractérisée en ce que le composé coloré natural or of natural origin is chosen from water-soluble natural colored compounds and fat-soluble natural colored compounds, in particular curcumin, lactoflavin, b-carotene, capsanthin / capsorubin, lycopene, caramel, chlorophyll, indigo, carmine, anthocyanins, betalains and their d érivés, la violaceine et déoxy violacéine, les flavonoides ou un extrait coloré en container, and their mixtures.

4. Poudre colorée selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce that the compound of formula (I) corresponds to the following formula (IA): in which R 7 is selected from H, a C1-C6 alkyl group, an oxo group, OH, a t group hioxo, SH et un groupe O-alkyle en C1-C6, et and R 1 to R 4 are as defined in claim 1. R 8 and R 9 are each independently absent or selected from H, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12 optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), 5. Poudre colorée selon la revendication 4, caractérisée en ce que dans ledit composé (I- A), R 1 and R 3 are independently absent or represent H, R 2is selected from H, an oxo group and NH2, R 4 is an oxo group and R 7 is selected from H and an oxo group.

6. Poudre colorée selon la revendication 4 ou la revendication 5, caractérisée en ce que ledit composé (I-A) est choisi parmi les composés suivants : preferably xanthine, hypoxanthine, uric acid and guanine, more preferably guanine.

7. Poudre colorée selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisée en ce que le composé coloré naturel ou d’origine naturelle ou un extrait coloré en contenant is adsorbed on the surface and / or inside the crystal formed by said compound of formula (I).

8. Poudre coloriée selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisé en ce that it includes a magnesium salt.

9. Poudre colorée selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisée en ce que la teneur totale en composés colorés naturels ou d’origine naturelle ou un extrait colored in container ranges from 0.01 to 15%, in particular from 0.1 to 10%, or even from 0.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said colored powder.

10. Poudre colorée selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 9, caractérisée en ce que la teneur en composé azoté de formule (I) ou (Ia), de préférence en guanine, va de 45 à 99% en poids, en particulier de 50 à 99% en poids, par exemple de 65 à 99%, in particular from 70 to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of said colored powder.

11. Procédé de préparation d’une poudre colorée telle que définie dans l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 10, comprenant les étapes suivantes : i) Solubilisation dudit composé azoté de formule (I) dans une solution aqueuse preferably basic, i i) Solubilisation d’un ou plusieurs composés colorés naturels ou d’originenatural or extract containing it (water-soluble compound ii), in an aqueous or ethanolic solution, possibly acidified iia), or alternatively solubilization of one or more natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or extract containing it (liposoluble compound ii), in an organic solvent, in particular carbonyl iib), i ii) Introduction de la solution obtenue en i) dans une solution colorée obtenue in ii), optionally in the presence of acid for the aqueous solution, to co-precipitate the nitrogen compound of formula (I) and the natural or naturally occurring colored compounds or natural extracts containing them and form said colored powder, i v) Séparation de la phase liquide de la poudre colorée solide, par filtration ou centrifugation, v ) Rinçage de ladite poudre colorée obtenue en iv) à l’éthanol et séparation de the liquid phase of said solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation, v i) Rinçage de ladite poudre colorée obtenue en v) à l’eau et séparation de la liquid phase of said solid colored powder, by filtration or centrifugation, and v ii) Séchage de ladite poudre colorée.

12. Procédé de préparation d’une poudre colorée selon la revendication 11 caractérisé enthat in solubilization step (ii), the natural or naturally occurring colored compound(s) or colored extracts containing them are soluble in an aqueous or ethanolic solution, preferably soluble in an aqueous solution.

13. Pâte pigmentaire comprenant une poudre colorée telle que définie dans l’une any of claims 1 to 10 or prepared according to the process of claim 1 1 ou 12, et une ou plusieurs huiles.

14. Procédé de préparation d’une pâte pigmentaire telle que définie dans la revendication 13 comprenant les étapes suivantes : i) Broyage de ladite poudre colorée telle que définie dans l’une quelconque des claims 1 to 10 or prepared according to the process of claim 11 or 12, and ii) Mélange avec une ou plusieurs huiles.

15. Composition cosmétique comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, a colored powder as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10 or prepared according to the process of claim 11 or 12, or a pigment paste as defined in claim 13, and one or more additional ingredients selected from oils, C1-C5 monoalcohols, glycols, surfactants, c harges, les agents gélifiants ou structurants, les agents filmogènes, les actifs cosmetics, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, and their mixtures.

16. Composition selon la revendication 15, caractérisée en ce qu’il s’agit d’une compositioncare or makeup composition for the skin and / or lips, particularly the lips.

17. Procédé cosmétique de soin et / ou de maquillage des matières kératiniques comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in claim 15 or claim 16.

Images