Cosmetic care and / or make-up composition comprising cross-linked polyglutamic acid

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising: - at least one aqueous phase gelled by crosslinked polyglutamic acid or one of the salts thereof, and - at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-silicone elastomer.

Description

[0001] COSMETIC CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION COMPRISING CROSS-LINKED POLYGLUTAMIC ACID

[0002] FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0003] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, having sensory qualities on application, and preferably composed of ingredients of natural origin.

[0004] STATE OF THE ART

[0005] Today's consumers are looking for more natural cosmetic products made with naturally derived ingredients. However, some synthetic ingredients are difficult to replace. This is particularly the case with silicone elastomers.

[0006] When they were first introduced into the cosmetic raw materials market, silicone elastomers enjoyed significant success, primarily due to their sensory benefits. These polymers can give cosmetic formulations a particularly pleasant feel, characterized as soft, silky, or powdery. Elastomers also provide a mattifying appearance to the skin, these optical properties being referred to as "soft focus," which explains their use in many makeup and skincare products. Silicone elastomers also have the advantage of being able to easily increase the viscosity of certain anhydrous formulas or water-in-oil emulsions, while improving their sensory profile, which is referred to as a "cushion effect."

[0007] However, silicone elastomers are ingredients that are not of natural origin, and moreover are not biodegradable.

[0008] We are currently looking for compositions comprising more ingredients of natural origin, and in particular not comprising silicone elastomer, but without compromising the sensory properties of said cosmetic compositions.

[0009] “Naturally derived ingredients” means ingredients that come from nature but have been physically transformed or have been chemically extracted or treated.

[0010] Today and to the Applicant's knowledge, it is not possible to substitute these silicone elastomers with a single ingredient; some use super absorbent polymers in aqueous phase for their sensory properties (freshness, cushion effect, glide) but these are of synthetic origin and controversial because they are considered plastic beads and therefore non-biodegradable. These are, for example, products with the INCI names sodium polyacrylate, sodium acrylates crosspolymer-2 or sodium polyacrylate starch, such as the product Makimousse-12 from the company Kobo.

[0011] We are therefore looking for new alternatives to more natural aqueous gelling agents, which are compatible with crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, as described in application W0202141046 from Grant Industries Inc and marketed under the name Gransense™.

[0012] However, the Applicant has demonstrated that the use of a cross-linked poly-gamma-glutamate (abbreviated to gamma-PGA or PGA), known for its water retention and skin hydration properties (EP 1 563 831), makes it possible to obtain, in association with a cross-linked polyurethane elastomer (non-silicone elastomer), a stable and homogeneous composition with sensory properties of freshness, glide on application and cushion effect, compared to other aqueous gelling agents (such as cross-linked hyaluronic acid, for example).

[0013] The association according to the invention therefore constitutes an alternative to silicone elastomers for formulations comprising an aqueous phase, which are sought after for their freshness effect on application.

[0014] STATEMENT OF THE INVENTION

[0015] The Applicant has thus shown that a cosmetic care and / or makeup composition comprising a combination of a crosslinked gamma-PGA hydrogel or one of its salts, with an oily phase gelled by at least one non-silicone elastomer, has freshness properties combined with a sensory effect of the type

[0016] “gummy / cushion” when applying said composition, and this without using any silicone elastomer.

[0017] For this purpose, according to a first aspect of the invention, a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials is proposed, comprising:

[0018] - at least one aqueous phase gelled with crosslinked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and

[0019] - at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-silicone elastomer.

[0020] According to a preferred implementation, the cosmetic composition further contains at least one amphiphilic compound.

[0021] The present invention also relates to a process for preparing a cosmetic composition as described above, comprising at least one mixing step:

[0022] - at least one aqueous phase gelled with crosslinked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and

[0023] - at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-silicone elastomer. Finally, another subject of the invention is a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the lips or facial skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as described above.

[0024] By "cosmetic composition" we mean any composition for cosmetic purposes, i.e. aesthetic purposes, which may come into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratin materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.

[0025] By "physiologically acceptable medium" we mean any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratin materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0026] By "keratin materials" according to the invention, we mean the skin and / or its appendages, and more particularly the human skin and / or lips. In particular, this will be the skin of the face and / or neck and / or body, and the lips. The keratin materials in the context of the invention are healthy, that is to say not presenting any disorders or problems which would be a pathological condition ("non-healthy" subjects, suffering from a pathology). We will speak indifferently of healthy skin and / or lips or skin and / or lips in the remainder of the description.

[0027] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0028] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used as a makeup and / or care composition.

[0029] This cosmetic composition advantageously presents properties of freshness, comfort of application (in particular “rolling on the skin”) and optical blurring properties, while being free of silicone elastomer.

[0030] This composition may be an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or water-in-oil (W / O) reverse emulsion type formulation.

[0031] This composition may also be a gel / gel type formulation, consisting of two gelled phases, one aqueous and the other oily. Such gel / gel formulations are known to those skilled in the art, in particular in patent application FR 3 002 449.

[0032] According to this implementation of the invention, the composition is characterized in that the two aqueous and oily phases form a macroscopically homogeneous mixture, i.e. a gel / gel type formulation.

[0033] A 'macroscopically homogeneous mixture' means a mixture in which each of the gelled phases cannot be distinguished by the naked eye, in other words the two gelled phases form interpenetrating macro-domains leading to a stable, homogeneous and consistent formulation. This is referred to as a 'gel / gel' formulation, as both phases have a gel-like texture.

[0034] According to a particular implementation, the care and / or makeup composition according to the invention may be presented in a fluid galenic form, or in the form of a gel.

[0035] JELLY AQUEOUS PHASE

[0036] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase gelled with crosslinked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts.

[0037] Polyslutamic acid or one of its salts

[0038] Polyglutamic acid, also known as poly-gamma-glutamate or "Natto gum", and abbreviated as gamma-PGA, is a naturally occurring polymer produced by microorganisms, notably of the genus Bacillus such as B. licheniformis and B. subtilis, and in particular by the variety known as B. natto.

[0039] It is a polymer of glutamic acid in which the peptide bonds are located between the amine group of one residue and the carboxyl group of another residue. It can consist of L-glutamic acid, D-glutamic acid, or a racemic mixture of the two enantiomers.

[0040] This polymer can be crosslinked by any means known to the person skilled in the art. In particular, the crosslinking of gamma-PGA can be obtained by irradiation with gamma rays or electron beams, or by the action of chemical crosslinking agents.

[0041] Preferably, the gamma-PGA is crosslinked by irradiation with electron beams.

[0042] After crosslinking, gamma-PGA becomes a hydrophilic gelling agent with high water absorption capacity, which can form a “hydrogel” (aqueous gel) in low percentage mixtures.

[0043] This crosslinked polymer may be used in the form of a salt, including a sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium salt, or any combination of these salts.

[0044] According to a preferred implementation, the aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition is gelled by a crosslinked gamma-PGA sodium salt.

[0045] Such a crosslinked gamma-PGA salt in the form of an aqueous gel (hydrogel) is supplied by the company TOA KASEI, in two formats: one comprising 2% of active ingredient under the name TOA SPR-2, and the other comprising 12% of active ingredient under the name TOA SPR-12.

[0046] According to one implementation of the invention, the percentage of crosslinked gamma-PGA or one of its salts in the composition is between 0.1 and 15% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] The aqueous phase of the composition comprises an aqueous solution of gamma-PGA.

[0048] According to one implementation of the invention, the percentage of crosslinked gamma-PGA or one of its salts in the aqueous phase is between 0.2 and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

[0049] The aqueous phase of the composition comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0050] According to the invention, the term 'water-soluble solvent' means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). In particular, we can cite:

[0051] - lower C1-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures, preferably ethanol;

[0052] - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, preferably C3-C5 glycols;

[0053] - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] It may also include additional hydrophilic gelling agents (separate from gamma-PGA), antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

[0055] According to a particular implementation of the invention, the composition further comprises, in the aqueous phase, at least one polyol, preferably chosen from glycerol or a diol or one of their combinations, and more preferably contains a combination of glycerol, butylene glycol and hexanediol.

[0056] The presence of at least one polyol in the aqueous phase of the composition makes it possible to provide hydration properties to the cosmetic composition.

[0057] Generally speaking, the aqueous phase and the oily phase forming the composition according to the invention will generally be present in a weight ratio varying from 95 / 5 to 5 / 95, in particular from 30 / 70 to 80 / 20. Those skilled in the art will know how to adjust the ratio between the two phases according to the desired optical and sensory properties. Preferably for a fresh and soft-focus composition, it may be advantageous to favor an aqueous phase / oily phase weight ratio ranging from 60 / 40 to 80 / 20.

[0058] The viscosity of the phases can be measured according to technologies well known to those skilled in the art.

[0059] In particular, viscosity measurements are carried out using a rheometer connected to the Rhéolab QC software, on formulation samples, at 25 °C. The spindle used for all measurements is the “fin” geometry spindle. The measurement time is 3 minutes at a rotation speed of 100 rpm.

[0060] In the case of a gel / gel type formulation, it is advantageous if the viscosity of the two aqueous and oily phases is close.

[0061] JELLY OIL PHASE

[0062] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-silicone elastomer.

[0063] Gelling agent for the oil phase

[0064] The oily phase of the composition according to the invention is gelled by the presence of at least one non-silicone elastomer.

[0065] By 'elastomer' is meant a crosslinked polymer having elastic properties.

[0066] A prime example of a non-silicone elastomer is a crosslinked polyester derived from castor oil.

[0067] Another example of a non-silicone elastomer is a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer.

[0068] The crosslinked polyurethane elastomer is in particular in the form of a gel, in which the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer is dispersed in at least one solvent. The non-silicone elastomer gel may comprise one or more crosslinked polyurethane elastomers.

[0069] Preferably the polyurethane elastomer(s) are micronized (particle size 1 to 100 microns, preferably 1 to 60 microns in diameter).

[0070] Thus, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer gel used in the invention may consist of a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer (copolymer) or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers (copolymers), the elastomer (copolymer) or the mixture of elastomers (copolymers) being obtained by reacting a (poly)isocyanate with a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and a cosmetic solvent under conditions to form the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer. In particular, a urethanization reaction catalyst, such as a bismuth or zinc-based catalyst, is used.

[0071] The crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the invention is advantageously bio-sourced, that is to say obtained from raw materials of natural origin (85%, better still 90%, or even 95% bio-sourced). Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the prepolymer, the (poly)isocyanate and the cosmetic solvent are of natural origin (for example plant-based) at more than 85%, or even more than 95%.

[0072] The crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the invention may consist of a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer (copolymer) or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers (copolymers), the copolymer or mixture of copolymers being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and a (poly)isocyanate and at least one solvent, in particular from a dimer or trimer of carboxylic acid, preferably C16-C20, a polyol and a diisocyanate.

[0073] According to a particular embodiment, the polyol is chosen from the group consisting of an aliphatic diol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as 1,2-ethanediol, propanediols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, preferably propanediols and butanediol; a fatty acid triglyceride comprising at least two -OH groups, such as ricinoleic acid triglyceride or a plant source containing it, such as castor oil.

[0074] In a particular embodiment, the prepolymer is a copolymer of dilinoleic acid and propanediol (DAPD) or a copolymer of dilinoleic acid and butanediol (DABP).

[0075] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)isocyanate is a diisocyanate, in particular an aliphatic diisocyanate which may contain from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), 1,5-pentamethylene diisocyanate (PDI) or isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI). As preferred (poly)isocyanate, mention may be made of 1,5-pentamethylene diisocyanate trimer.

[0076] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention: the prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups is a copolymer of a dimer or a trimer of carboxylic acid, and of a polyol, in particular of a dimer of C12-C18 fatty acids, preferably dilinoleic acid, and of a polyol chosen from the group consisting of an aliphatic diol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as 1,2 ethanediol, propanediols such as 1,2 propanediol, 1,3 propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, preferably propanediols and butanediol;a fatty acid triglyceride comprising at least two -OH groups, such as ricinoleic acid triglyceride or a plant source containing it, such as castor oil, and in that the (poly)isocyanate is a diisocyanate, in particular an aliphatic diisocyanate which may contain from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), 1,5-pentamethylene diisocyanate (PDI) or isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI).;

[0077] As cosmetic solvents used in the synthesis of crosslinked polyurethane elastomer and / or the formation of crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel, mention may be made of esters, ethers, alkanes and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the following may be used: triglycerides of plant origin such as glycerol trihexanoate, glycerol triheptanoate (triheptanoin), glycerol trioctanoate, coco-caprylate / caprate, C9-C22 alkanes such as undecane, tridecane; esters of natural origin and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol triheptanoate (triheptanoin), coco-caprylate / caprate, C9-C22 alkanes, esters of natural origin and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the polyurethane elastomer gel or copolymer of the invention comprises at least one solvent chosen from the group consisting of triglycerides of plant origin such as glycerol trihexanoate, glycerol triheptanoate (triheptanoin), glycerol trioctanoate, coco-caprylate / caprate, C9-C22 alkanes such as undecane, tridecane; esters of natural origin and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol triheptanoate (triheptanoin), coco-caprylate / caprate, C9-C22 alkanes, esters of natural origin and mixtures thereof.

[0079] According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel used in the compositions according to the invention may comprise from 5 to 30% by weight, in particular from 5 to 17% by weight of active material of crosslinked polyurethane elastomer(s), and from 70 to 95% by weight, in particular from 83 to 95% by weight of solvent(s).

[0080] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel comprising at least one solvent and a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, said elastomer or said mixture of elastomers being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and a (poly)isocyanate.

[0081] The elastomer gel may comprise at least one solvent and a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of crosslinked polyurethane elastomers.

[0082] According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel used according to the invention is the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel prepared in Example 6 or Example 9 of international application WO202141046 from Grant Industries Inc. The prepolymer is a copolymer of C8 dimeric acid and 1,3 propanediol (DAPD) or 1,4 butanediol (DABD), the polyisocyanate is a trimer of pentylene diisocyanate (PDT), the catalyst is bismuth neodecanoate and the solvent is a mixture of coco-caprylate / caprate and glycerol triheptanoate. The concentrated gel is then formed by micronizing said crosslinked polyurethane elastomer and adding glycerol triheptanoate. The concentrated gel is then diluted with the addition of C9-C12 alkanes (Vegelight 1214).

[0083] Such crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gels are marketed under the name Gransense™ by Grant Industries.

[0084] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer or one of the copolymers of the mixture is obtained from dilinoleic acid, propanediol or butanediol and pentamethylene diisocyanate.

[0085] This crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the invention can be described as a non-silicone elastomer of polyester nature and have the INCI name: polyurethane-10 Elastomer or polyurethane-100 Elastomer.

[0086] The following commercial references of Grant Industries Inc. may be cited in particular:

[0087] - GRANSENSE TC-11X with INCI name Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (and) Triheptanoin (and) Polyurethane- 10 Elastomer; and

[0088] - GRANSENSE TC-8X by INCI name Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (and) Triheptanoin (and) C9-12 Alkane (and) Polyurethane-100 Elastomer.

[0089] According to another particular embodiment, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel or copolymer of the invention comprises a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, said mixture being obtained from dilinoleic acid / polyol prepolymers and isophorone diisocyanate, the two polyols being butanediol and castor oil.

[0090] Thus, according to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers or copolymers of the invention, said mixture being obtained from prepolymers of dilinoleic acid / two polyols and isophorone diisocyanate, the two polyols being butanediol and castor oil. For example, the mixture contains a first copolymer obtained from dilinoleic acid and butanediol, and a second copolymer obtained from isophorone diisocyanate and castor oil. The mixture of these two elastomers or copolymers may have the following INCI names:

[0091] - Triheptanoin (and) Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer Elastomer, or - Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (and) Triheptanoin (and) C9-12 Alkane (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer Elastomer.

[0092] More specifically, the chemical compounds Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer and Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer, as contained in the products marketed under the name GRANSENSE™, may be used.

[0093] The following commercial references of Grant Industries Inc. can be cited in particular:

[0094] - GRANSENSE TC-18X-C with INCI name: Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (and) Triheptanoin (and) C9-12 Alkane (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer

[0095] - GRANSENSE TC-21X-C with INCI name: Triheptanoin (and) Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / 1 PDI Copolymer

[0096] - GRANSENSE TC-21X-SBC with INCI name: Triheptanoin (and) Coco-caprylate / caprate (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / 1 PDI Copolymer (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter).

[0097] The crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the invention (alone or as a mixture of two elastomers or copolymers) will generally be present in the composition in a total raw material content ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, in particular from 10% to 50% and in particular from 15 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] The crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the invention (alone or as a mixture of two copolymers) will generally be present in the composition in a total dry matter (active) content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, in particular from 1% to 3% and in particular from 2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] The oily phase may also include a “fatty phase structuring agent” chosen in particular from waxes, additional gelling agents other than those mentioned above, pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] In particular, other oily gelling agents may be present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention, in combination with the crosslinked polyester and / or the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer, in particular oily gelling agents of natural origin.

[0101] Thus, according to a particular implementation, the oily phase further comprises hydroxystearic acid.

[0102] Such an oily gelling agent is commercially available, in particular under the name CASID® HSA, this product being distributed by the company Vertellus. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise an oily phase gelled by at least one crosslinked polyurethane elastomer, said oily phase representing from 15 to 40% by weight, in particular from 20 to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 25 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] The oily phase of the composition may comprise additional oils, distinct from the oils used in the synthesis of the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer described above.

[0104] Preferably, additional hydrocarbon oils will be used.

[0105] In particular, the hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched liquid fatty alcohols, C10-C26, ester oils, oils of vegetable origin, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0106] Examples of oils of plant origin include: sunflower oil, jojoba oil, castor oil and their mixtures.

[0107] Among the ester oils, we can notably cite: esters of fatty alcohols and C8-C18 fatty acids, in particular coco-caprylate caprate which is an ester of fatty alcohol of natural origin (e.g. coconut), caprylic acid and capric acid,

[0108] - fatty acid esters, in particular with 4 to 22 carbon atoms, synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R? represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched one, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1+R2 is >16, such as for example isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, succinate 2-diethylhexyl; linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70;hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate, polyglyceryl 10 nonaisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms; esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids;

[0109] - oligomeric polyesters of dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimeric fatty acid; we can cite in particular dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (e.g.: Lusplan™);

[0110] - esters of amino acid derivatives; we can cite in particular Di (phytosteryl octyldodecyl) N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (e.g. Eldew®); polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated;

[0111] - and their mixtures.

[0112] Amphiphilic compound

[0113] According to a particular and preferred implementation of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one amphiphilic compound.

[0114] Such an amphiphilic compound has both a hydrophilic group and a hydrophobic group. Such compounds make it possible to promote the homogeneous mixing of the two aqueous and oily phases present in the compositions according to the invention.

[0115] Preferably, this amphiphilic compound is chosen from:

[0116] - an ester of polyglycerol and C6-C30 fatty acid, in particular C10-C20 and preferably C12-C20,

[0117] - a C16-C22 fatty alcohol,

[0118] - a non-ionic surfactant, and

[0119] - their mixtures.

[0120] Any combination of these amphiphilic compounds may be present in the composition according to the invention.

[0121] According to one implementation of the invention, the composition comprises, as amphiphilic compound, an ester of polyglycerol and C6-C30 fatty acid, in particular C10-C20 and preferably C12-C20.

[0122] The fatty acids may be chosen in particular from citric acid (C6), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16), stearic or isostearic acid (C18), ricinoleic acid (C18), oleic acid (C18), linoleic acid (C18), and mixtures thereof. As esters of polyglycerol and fatty acid used according to the invention, the following compounds may be cited in particular: Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-4 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Decalinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Decaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Decacasterate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicocoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Didecanoate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Dilaurate, Polyglycerin-2 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate,Polyglyceryl-6 Dipalmitate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Heptaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Heptastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isopalmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-5 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-8 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentalaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentalinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentaoleate,Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyrisinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquistearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-8 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraisostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetrastearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Trioleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Tristearate, Polyglyceryl Tristearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate, et leurs mélanges.,

[0123] According to a preferred implementation, the amphiphilic compound is chosen from polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0124] For example, the compound polyglyceryl-3 laurate is commercially available, notably under the following trade name: HYDRAMOL TGL ESTER MB.

[0125] The compound polyglyceryl-6 laurate is notably contained in the product with the trade name FLUIDIFEEL EASY. The compound polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is notably contained in the product with the trade name S-FACE 10G-L.

[0126] The compound polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate is notably contained in the product with the trade name S-FACE IS-1001 P.

[0127] The compound polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate is notably contained in the product with the trade name BENTONE® LUXE WN.

[0128] According to one implementation of the invention, the composition comprises, as amphiphilic compound, a C16-C22 fatty alcohol.

[0129] By "C16-C22 fatty alcohol" is meant alcohols comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and more particularly monoalcohols. As examples of C16-C22 fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched C16-C22 fatty alcohols, of synthetic or natural origin. As particular examples of fatty alcohols which can be used preferably, mention may in particular be made of stearyl alcohol (C18), isostearyl alcohol (C18), oleyl alcohol (C18), 2-hexyldecyl alcohol (C16), isocetyl alcohol (C16), octyldodecanol (C20) and mixtures thereof.

[0130] According to a preferred implementation, the amphiphilic compound is chosen from stearyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol.

[0131] For example, isostearyl alcohol (INCI name: ISOSTEARYL ALCOHOL) is notably contained in the product with the trade name EMULFREE CGB MB.

[0132] According to another implementation of the invention, the composition comprises, as amphiphilic compound, a non-ionic surfactant.

[0133] Non-ionic surfactants include alkyl glucosides and sorbitan esters.

[0134] An alkyl glucoside is preferably selected from lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, and a combination thereof.

[0135] A combination of lauryl glucoside and myristyl glucoside is contained in particular in the product with the trade name FLUIDIFEEL EASY.

[0136] Among sorbitan esters, there are hydrophilic and lipophilic sorbitan esters.

[0137] Advantageously, in the composition according to the invention, a lipophilic sorbitan ester, with an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) of less than or equal to 6 will be used.

[0138] Examples of lipophilic sorbitan esters include sorbitan monostearate (HLB = 4.7), sorbitan monoisostearate (HLB = 5), sorbitan sesquiisostearate (HLB = 4.5), and sorbitan sesquioleate (HLB = 3.7). In a particular embodiment, the amphiphilic compound present in the composition is sorbitan sesquiisostearate.

[0139] For example, such a compound is contained in the product with the trade name SALACOS 182 V.

[0140] Thus, according to a particular implementation of the invention, the amphiphilic compound is chosen from polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, sorbitan sesquiisostearate and mixtures thereof.

[0141] In certain particular cases, and in particular when the composition according to the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil inverse emulsion, it is advantageous for the cosmetic composition to comprise a combination of at least two amphiphilic compounds.

[0142] According to a particular implementation of the invention, the amphiphilic compound is a combination of polyglyceryl-6 laurate, lauryl glucoside and myristyl glucoside.

[0143] Such a combination is commercially available, for example in the commercial product called FLUIDIFEEL EASY (INCI name: Lauryl Glucoside (and) Myristyl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate).

[0144] According to another embodiment of the invention, the amphiphilic compound is a combination of polyglyceryl-3 laurate and stearyl alcohol.

[0145] Such a combination is commercially available, for example it is contained in the commercial product EMULFREE CGB MB.

[0146] Other combinations of amphiphilic compounds may be used, in particular by combining several commercial products.

[0147] For example, a combination of sorbitan sesquiisostearate (as contained in the product SALACOS 182 V) and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (as contained in the product BENTONE® LUXE WN) will be advantageously used.

[0148] The total content of amphiphilic compound(s) in the composition of the invention will in particular be from 1 to 12% by weight, in particular from 3 to 9% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] Other additional compounds

[0150] The composition according to the invention may advantageously also contain additional compounds chosen in particular from dispersants, emulsifiers, film-forming agents, fillers, coloring materials, in particular pigments, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the additional compounds will be chosen from fillers, coloring materials, and mixtures thereof.

[0151] According to one implementation of the invention, the composition further comprises fillers.

[0152] The presence of one or more fillers makes it possible to provide matteness and a blurring and filling effect to the skincare and / or makeup compositions of the invention. The optical properties of a cosmetic composition are often obtained thanks to the presence of at least one filler. By blurring or "soft-focus" effect, it is meant that the fillers used according to the invention are capable of reducing the visibility of skin imperfections, by an immediate optical effect.

[0153] By "fillers" is meant particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to confer a mattifying effect. The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape: platelet, spherical or oblong.

[0154] The fillers according to the invention are chosen in particular from: cellulose powders, lauroyl lysine, lauroyl lysine fermented by saccharomyces, boron nitride powders, silica powders, silica powders treated with lauroyl lysine, starch powders, calcium carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0155] According to a preferred implementation, the fillers present in the composition of the invention are lipophilic fillers.

[0156] According to a particular embodiment, the fillers used in the composition according to the invention are in particular chosen from silica (in particular silica powders), such as that marketed under the name Sunsphere H33 and lauroyl lysine fermented by saccharomyces with the INCI name Saccharomyces ferment lauroyl lysine, such as that marketed under the name Granpowder BBP-700 from the company Grant Industries.

[0157] The fillers may or may not be treated to facilitate their dispersion in the aqueous phase or the oily phase of the composition, preferably in the oily filler.

[0158] The total content of fillers according to the invention will range in particular from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] According to one implementation of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one coloring material, and in particular at least one pigment.

[0160] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “coloring material” means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. A coloring material may be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials, materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the oily phase of the invention.

[0161] By "pigment" we mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit.

[0162] According to a particular embodiment, the pigment(s) are chosen in particular from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), nacres or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0163] Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.

[0164] Examples of "organic pigments" include D & C red no. 19; D & C red no. 9; D & C Red no. 22; D & C Red no. 21; D & C Red no. 28; D & C Yellow no.

[0165] 6; D&C Orange No. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D&C Red No. 27; D & C red No. 13; D & C Red no.

[0166] 7; D & C Red No. 6; D & C Yellow No. 5; D & C Red No. 36; D & C Red No. 33; D & C orange No. 10; D & C yellow No. 6; D & C Red No. 30; D & C red No. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and cochineal carmine lakes.

[0167] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least iron oxides.

[0168] The pigments and fillers may or may not be surface-treated to facilitate their solubilization in the aqueous phase or the oily phase of the emulsion. In particular, the pigments are dispersed in the oily phase of the invention.

[0169] Advantageously, the pigments are surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent for better dispersion in the oily phase. The hydrophobic treatment agent is in particular chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0170] In particular, the pigments, when present in the composition, are present in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition of the invention is characterized in that it comprises less than 5% of silicone compound by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1% of silicone compound by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is devoid of silicone compound.

[0172] Preparation process

[0173] The present invention also relates to a process for preparing a cosmetic composition as described above, comprising at least one mixing step:

[0174] - at least one aqueous phase gelled with crosslinked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and

[0175] - at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-silicone elastomer.

[0176] Depending on the desired formulation for the composition according to the invention, the person skilled in the art will adapt this process according to his general knowledge to obtain a formulation of the oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion type or of the gel / gel type.

[0177] According to a preferred implementation, the preparation process is carried out under conditions conducive to obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.

[0178] The skilled person will be able to adjust the ratio between the two gelled phases according to the desired optical and sensory properties. Preferably for a fresh and soft-focus composition, it may be advantageous to favor a weight ratio of aqueous phase to oily phase ranging from 60 / 40 to 80 / 20.

[0179] Cosmetic process

[0180] The present invention also relates to a method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the lips or facial skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as described above.

[0181] The combination of at least one aqueous phase gelled with crosslinked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one non-silicone elastomer, as described above, makes it possible to obtain a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials which has characteristics similar to those obtained with silicone elastomers, while not containing said silicone elastomers: in particular during its application, a freshness and rolling effect on the skin, with application comfort of the “cushion effect” type.

[0182] The invention will be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. The percentages (%) are expressed as a percentage by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0183] Example 1. Comparison of formulations comprising a gelled aqueous phase with crosslinked hydrophilic polymers: crosslinked poly-gamma-glutamate sodium, or a crosslinked sodium hyaluronate polymer

[0184] 11 Several aqueous gels were produced with different hydrophilic polymers under the same conditions, with identical active material concentration and production processes:

[0185] - with cross-linked sodium poly-gamma-glutamate (also noted as cross-linked gamma-PGA): TOA SPR 2 gel with 2% active ingredient ready to use, and

[0186] - with cross-linked hyaluronic acid (HYACROSS™ TL 200, marketed by Bloomage Biotechnologies) in powder form mixed extemporaneously by simple stirring with water to obtain an aqueous gel containing 2% by weight of active ingredient.

[0187] The oily gel is a ready-to-use GRANSENSE™ elastomer gel chosen in particular from the following commercial references:

[0188] - GRANSENSE TC-18X-C with INCI name: Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (and) Triheptanoin (and) C9-

[0189] 12 Alkane (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer,

[0190] - GRANSENSE TC-21X-C with INCI name: Triheptanoin (and) Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (and) Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer.

[0191] Each of these aqueous gels was then mixed with an oily gel comprising a non-silicone elastomer (Gransense™) and an amphiphilic compound according to the following protocol:

[0192] - the amphiphilic compound is added into the GRANSENSE™ oily gel by simple stirring;

[0193] - the oily gel thus obtained is added to the aqueous gel while stirring with a Rayneri emulsifier.

[0194] The compositions studied include:

[0195] - 65% of a gelled aqueous phase, or water (control) for comparison;

[0196] - 30% of an oily phase gelled with the commercial product GRANSENSE TC-21X-C, and

[0197] - 5% polyglyceryl-3 laurate as an amphiphilic compound.

[0198] The 3 formulations were evaluated by a panel of experts according to the following aspects: resistance to centrifugation (which allows the stability of the composition to be assessed) and sensoriality upon application (glide upon application, powdery and soft finish, blurring effect).

[0199] The following ratings were given:

[0200] For centrifugation stability:

[0201] OK: stable

[0202] X: not stable, not homogeneous, visible separation of the two phases (fatty and aqueous) For sensoriality:

[0203] ++: excellent

[0204] +: good

[0205] - : not acceptable The results obtained are presented in table 1 below.

[0206] Table 1. Results

[0207] The result of the centrifugation test is unfavorable for the formulation containing the crosslinked HA gel, i.e. the mixture of the two phases does not remain homogeneous when subjected to centrifugation. However, the test is conclusive for the composition according to the invention comprising the crosslinked gamma-PGA.

[0208] Regarding the sensoriality of application, only the formulation containing cross-linked gamma-PGA provides a satisfactory result in terms of a powdery finish; as well as in terms of round application, with a cushion effect. On the contrary, the application of the comparative formulation containing cross-linked HA gel is stringy and sticky and does not provide a powdery effect (feeling identical to the application of a very fine powder applied to the skin).

[0209] In conclusion, the use of crosslinked gamma-PGA as a hydrophilic gelling agent for an aqueous phase makes it possible, in combination with an oily phase gelled by a non-silicone elastomer (Gransense™), to generate stable and visually homogeneous cosmetic compositions, presenting good glide on application, a powdery finish and whose application is particularly pleasant, compared to a composition comprising another crosslinked hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0210] Example 2. Effects of an amphiphilic compound on the stability and sensoriality properties of the composition

[0211] Compositions were prepared as described in Example 1, with different amphiphilic compounds, with the following composition:

[0212] - 65% of an aqueous phase gelled with 2% MA crosslinked gamma-PGA salt, commercially known as TOA SPR 2; - 30% of an oily phase gelled with the commercial product GRANSENSE TC-21X-C, and

[0213] - 5% of an amphiphilic compound.

[0214] The 3 amphiphilic compounds tested are the following compounds:

[0215] - NEOSOLUE-AQUA S MB (test K) with INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-10

[0216] EICOSANEDIOATE / TETRADECANEDIOATE (and) GLYCERIN

[0217] - HYDRAMOL TGL ESTER MB (test L) with INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-3 LAURATE, and

[0218] - FLORAESTERS K-20W JOJOBA (test M) INCI name: HYDROLYZED JOJOBA ESTERS and WATER.

[0219] The 3 formulations were evaluated according to the following aspects: their stability after centrifugation, and the sensoriality and finish when applied to the skin (glide and shine).

[0220] The following ratings were given.

[0221] For centrifugation stability:

[0222] OK: stable

[0223] X: not stable, not homogeneous, visible separation of the two phases (fatty and aqueous).

[0224] For sensoriality:

[0225] ++: excellent

[0226] +: good

[0227] - : not acceptable

[0228] The results obtained are presented in Table 2 below.

[0229] Table 2. Results

[0230] These results show that the amphiphilic compound POLYGLYCERYL-3 LAURATE (test L) improves stability and sensory properties, particularly glide on application, compared to other amphiphilic compounds (tests K and M).

[0231] Example 3. Effects of lipophilic fillers on the optical and sensory properties of oily gel

[0232] The compositions studied include:

[0233] - 76 or 92% of an oil phase gelled with a non-silicone elastomer, ready to use, with the trade name GRANSENSE TC21XC; and

[0234] - 8% or 24% of a lipophilic filler.

[0235] The lipophilic fillers tested are: SUNSPHERE H33 (INCI name: silica) and GRANDPOWDER BBP 700 (INCI name: Saccharomyces Ferment (and) Lauroyl Lysine).

[0236] These fillers were incorporated into the gelled oil phase comprising the GRANSENSE™ elastomer.

[0237] Both formulations were evaluated according to the following aspects: the blurring effect and the sensoriality upon application.

[0238] The ratings given are as follows:

[0239] For the blurring effect:

[0240] +: good

[0241] - : less good

[0242] For the application: description of the effect obtained. The results obtained are presented in Table 4 below.

[0243] Table 3. Results

[0244] The use of lipophilic fillers, such as silica and lauroyl lysine fermented by Saccharomyces, improves the blurring effect and sensoriality upon application.

[0245] (“cushion-effect round”) of an oily gel containing Gransense™.

[0246] Alternatively, the inventors tested the interest of adding a hydrophilic filler in the aqueous gelled phase.

[0247] Thus, aqueous gels comprising different hydrophilic fillers were prepared including:

[0248] - 95% of a hydrogel comprising 2% MA crosslinked polyglutamic acid salt, trade name TOA SPR 2; and

[0249] - 5% of a hydrophilic filler.

[0250] It has been found that adding a hydrophilic filler to an aqueous gel does not provide both an improved blurring effect and a comfortable finish and application to the skin. In particular, fluffiness and / or insufficient blurring are observed during application.

[0251] Thus it is particularly interesting to use lipophilic fillers blurring in the gelled oil phase, rather than hydrophilic fillers in the gelled aqueous phase. Example 4. Formulations

[0252] Several care and / or makeup compositions according to the invention have been prepared and are presented in Tables 5, 6 and 7 below. 4. 1 Liquid formula for the eyes

[0253] Table 4. Example of formulation

[0254] The formulation was prepared according to the following procedure:

[0255] - Phase A is stirred using a deflocculator at 500 rpm,

[0256] - Phase B is added to phase A and the whole is mixed for 5 minutes,

[0257] - the CASID HSA is melted in the GRANSENSE™ in a water bath at 90°C, then the mixture is cooled while stirring,

[0258] - the SOLESPHERE filler is dispersed in the GRANSENSE™ + CASID mixture to obtain phase C,

[0259] - Phase D is added in phase C,

[0260] - The CD mixture is added to AB, stirred rapidly for 10 minutes using the deflocculator, until a smooth and homogeneous texture is obtained,

[0261] - Phase E is added to the mixture, stirred for 5 minutes, and

[0262] - Phase F is added to the mixture, stirred for 5 minutes.

[0263] The resulting composition is stable and homogeneous in appearance.

[0264] It glides well on the lips and provides a fresh effect upon application, with a matte, transfer-free finish.

[0265] 4.2 CARE SERUM:

[0266] Table 5. Example of formulation

[0267] This formulation was prepared according to the following process, cold, under Rayneri, and includes the following steps:

[0268] - Preparation of phase A: formation of the y-PGA hydrogel Add water regularly while allowing the gel to swell, while stirring at between 600-900 rpm and stirring with a spatula, until a homogeneous and smooth gel is obtained,

[0269] - Addition of phases A1 and B in phase A,

[0270] - Preparation of phase C: the fillers are added to the oily gel until a white and homogeneous gel is obtained, - Phase C is introduced into mixture A and B, kept stirring for 15-20 minutes.

[0271] The resulting composition is stable and homogeneous in appearance.

[0272] It is comfortable to apply (round cushion effect application, rolling on the skin) and provides a fresh effect to the skin. It also has optical properties for blurring and filling in skin imperfections. 4.3 COMPLEXION PRIMER:

[0273] Table 6. Example of formulation This formulation was prepared using the following cold process under Rayneri. It includes the following steps:

[0274] - Phase A is stirred;

[0275] - Phase B is added to phase A, with stirring at approximately 500 rpm; - Preparation of phase C: the components are weighed, mixed and ground in a three-cylinder;

[0276] - Phase C is added to phase A;

[0277] - Preparation of phase D: the fillers are introduced into the oily gel until a white and homogeneous gel is obtained; - Phase D is added to the aqueous phase A while stirring at 600 rpm, and the mixture is left stirring for 15-20 minutes;

[0278] - Phase E is added to the mixture.

[0279] The resulting composition is stable and homogeneous in appearance. Applied to the skin, this tinted primer has a freshening effect, a rolling effect on the skin, and a matte, powdery finish.

[0280] 4.4 Primer tinted in the form of an inverse emulsion (water-in-oil)

[0281] In this water-in-oil emulsion, two amphiphilic compounds are present: - sorbitan sesquiisostearate contained in the product SALACOS 182 V, and

[0282] - polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate contained in the BENTONE® LUXE WN product.

[0283] Table 7. Example of formulation

[0284] This formulation was prepared using the following process, cold, under emulsifier. It includes the following steps:

[0285] - Phase A is stirred, - Preparation of phase A1: the components are weighed, mixed and ground in a three-cylinder mill,

[0286] - Phase A1 is then added to phase A at 1700rpm,

[0287] - Preparation of phase B: the components are weighed and mixed with the deflocculator at 350rpm until a homogeneous phase is obtained,

[0288] - Phases B and B1 are added to phase A under emulsifier at 2500rpm, - Phase B2 is added at a speed of 1800rpm,

[0289] - Phase C is added to the mixture. The resulting composition provides a rolling effect upon application and a soft, matte finish.

[0290] BIBLIOGRAPHICAL REFERENCES

[0291] WO 2021 / 41046

[0292] EP 1 563 831

[0293] FR 3 002 449

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising: - at least one aqueous phase gelled with crosslinked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and - at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-silicone elastomer.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the two aqueous and oily phases form a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the aqueous phase is gelled by a crosslinked sodium salt of poly-gamma-glutamate (gamma-PGA).

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the percentage of crosslinked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts in the composition is between 0.1 and 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the at least one non-silicone elastomer is a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel comprising at least one solvent and a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, said elastomer or said mixture of elastomers being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and a (poly)isocyanate.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising at least one amphiphilic compound.

7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the amphiphilic compound is chosen from an ester of polyglycerol and C6-C30 fatty acid, in particular C10-C20 and preferably C12-C20, a C16-C22 fatty alcohol, a non-ionic surfactant, and mixtures thereof.

8. Cosmetic composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the amphiphilic compound is chosen from polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, sorbitan sesquiisostearate and mixtures thereof.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising fillers, preferably lipophilic fillers, in particular silica and / or lauroyl lysine fermented by saccharomyces with INCI name: Saccharomyces ferment lauroyl lysine.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising at least one coloring material, and in particular at least one pigment.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the oily phase also comprises hydroxystearic acid.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the aqueous phase further contains at least one polyol, preferably chosen from glycerol or a diol or one of their combinations, and more preferably contains a combination of glycerol, butylene glycol and hexanediol.

13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it comprises less than 5% of silicone compound by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1% of silicone compound by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is devoid of silicone compound.

14. Process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising at least one mixing step: - at least one aqueous phase gelled with crosslinked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and - at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-silicone elastomer.

15. Cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the lips or facial skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 13.

Images