Composition for treating keratin fibres comprising at least one copolymer containing acetoacetate functions, at least one c 6-c 16 hydrocarbon compound and at least two different oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds
A cosmetic composition using a specific copolymer and hydrocarbon compounds provides a uniform, water-resistant, and long-lasting coating on keratin fibers, addressing the limitations of existing treatments.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2024/086207
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-20
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-13
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-26
AI Technical Summary
Existing compositions for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, fail to provide a uniform, water-resistant, and long-lasting colored or uncolored coating that withstands shampoo washing, sebum, and other external factors.
A cosmetic composition comprising a copolymer with acetoacetate units, a C6-C16 hydrocarbon compound, and two different oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds, which forms a uniform, water-resistant coating on keratin fibers.
The composition achieves a strong, uniform color and improved persistence against shampoo washing and other external factors, ensuring a long-lasting effect on keratin fibers.
Smart Images

Figure EP2024086207_26062025_PF_FP_ABST
Abstract
Description
[0001] DESCRIPTION
[0002] TITLE: Composition for treating keratin fibres comprising at least one copolymer containing acetoacetate functions, at least one C6-C16 hydrocarbon compound and at least two different oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds
[0003] The present invention relates to the field of the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, preferably the hair. It thus aims to provide novel compositions comprising a particular copolymer containing acetoacetate units in combination with two types of hydrocarbon compounds, which offer excellent technical performance, notably in terms of uniformity and wear property of the coatings which they make it possible to obtain.
[0004] More specifically, the present invention relates to a composition intended for the treatment of human keratin fibres such as hair, comprising a copolymer formed from monomers bearing acetoacetate functions in combination with a Ce to Ci6 hydrocarbon compound and two C4-C30 oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds comprising at least 2 oxygen atoms.
[0005] The present invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibres such as the hair using this composition.
[0006] Technical field
[0007] In the field of the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular hair fibres, it is known to use one or more film-forming polymers in order to obtain a quality deposit of products on the fibres.
[0008] Document WO 2013 / 103528 proposes non-organized copolymers in particulate form, one of the monomers of which bears an acetoacetate function, notably for hair applications. Document WO 2014 / 098052 proposes an acrylic resin emulsion for styling agents that has been stably dispersed with a polyvinyl alcohol resin. However, the compositions described in these documents have unsatisfactory styling hold over time.
[0009] Furthermore, “hair makeup” products have recently been developed, which provide temporary hair colour that lasts for 1 to 3 shampoo washes. For consumers, they are a particularly attractive alternative to permanent hair dyeing, provided that a good wear property of the colour effect is guaranteed in contact with water and a few shampoo washes. This requirement may notably be satisfied by the use of effective film-forming agents.
[0010] Thus, document FR 2 741 530 proposes for this purpose, for the temporary colouring of keratin fibres, the use of a dispersion of film-forming polymer particles including at least one acidic function and at least one pigment dispersed in the continuous phase of said dispersion. The colourings obtained via this dyeing method however have the drawback of being removed too quickly on shampoo washing.
[0011] It is moreover proposed in document FR 2 907 678 to produce coloured hair coatings using a composition comprising a polysiloxane / polyurea block copolymer and a pigment. However, with such a composition, the coatings obtained are not always very uniform and the hair strand separation is not always satisfactory.
[0012] There is thus still a need for compositions which make it possible to deposit a coloured or uncoloured coating on the keratin fibres, which is powerful and uniform while being resistant to shampoo washing, sebum and the various attacking factors to which the hair may be subjected, such as brushing and / or rubbing.
[0013] The present invention enables these needs to be met.
[0014] Disclosure of the invention
[0015] One subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, comprising: i) at least one copolymer CP comprising repeating units obtained from:
[0016] - 0% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (A) chosen from 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, isobornyl acrylate, isobornyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof;
[0017] - 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (B) of formula (I): in which:
[0018] • Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, • Rband Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group,
[0019] • Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, and
[0020] • L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene, or cycloalkylene, group; and
[0021] - 0% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (C) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, silicone macromonomers and mixtures thereof; it being understood that said copolymer CP is obtained by polymerization of at least one monomer (B) with at least one monomer (A) and / or at least one monomer (C); ii) at least one hydrocarbon compound consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms comprising from 6 to 16 carbon atoms; and iii) at least two different oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms and at least 2 oxygen atoms, namely:
[0022] - a) at least one oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound chosen from polyols, and
[0023] - at least one oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound chosen from b) polyol ethers and c) esters comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0024] The application of such a composition to keratin fibres makes it possible to obtain particularly uniform coatings. It provides a coating that is water resistant and in particular resistant to shampoo washing and sebum. Such a coating may be resistant to the various external attacking factors to which keratin fibres may be subjected, for instance blow-drying, brushing, rubbing and perspiration.
[0025] Another subject of the present invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres comprising the application of the above composition to said fibres.
[0026] The invention also relates to the use of this composition for caring for keratin fibres, and in particular the hair.
[0027] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is used for dyeing keratin fibres, and in particular the hair. According to this embodiment, the composition comprises at least one colouring agent. Such a composition makes it possible to impart a particularly powerful colouring to the keratin fibres. Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
[0028] In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0029] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be replaced therewith;
[0030] - the expression “between... and...” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from... to...” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included.
[0031] - For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “greater than” and, respectively, the term “less than” refer to an open range which is strictly greater, or, respectively, strictly less, and thus that the limits are not included.
[0032] - According to the present patent application, “keratin fibres” is particularly understood to mean human keratin fibres such as head hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferentially head hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, even more preferentially head hair.
[0033] - For the purposes of the present invention, “the hair" is understood to mean head hair. This term does not correspond to body hair, the eyebrows or the eyelashes.
[0034] - an "alky radical denotes a linear or branched saturated radical containing, for example, from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0035] - an “aminoalkyF radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined previously, said alkyl radical comprising an NH2 group;
[0036] - a “hydroxyalky radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined previously, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group;
[0037] - an "alkylene" radical denotes a linear or branched divalent saturated C1-C10 hydrocarbon group such as methylene, ethylene or propylene;
[0038] - a “cycloalkyF or "alicycloalky radical denotes a saturated monocyclic or polycyclic, preferably monocyclic, cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, norbornyl or isobornyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl, it being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted with one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl; preferably, the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobornyl group;
[0039] - an “aryl” radical is a monocyclic, bicyclic or tricyclic, fused or non-fused, unsaturated and aromatic hydrocarbon-based cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 14 carbon atoms, more preferentially between 6 and 12 carbon atoms; preferably, the aryl group comprises 1 ring of 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted with one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl; preferably, the aryl group represents phenyl;
[0040] - an “aryloxy” radical denotes an aryl-oxy radical with “aryl” as defined previously;
[0041] - an “alkoxy” radical denotes an alkyl-oxy radical with “alkyl” as defined previously.
[0042] Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in the present patent application, this also includes the optical isomers thereof, the geometrical isomers thereof, the tautomers thereof or the salts thereof, alone or as a mixture.
[0043] The invention is not limited to the examples illustrated. The characteristics of the various examples may notably be combined within variants which are not illustrated.
[0044] The copolymers CP
[0045] Said copolymer CP may be a statistical, alternating (block) or gradient copolymer.
[0046] Preferably, the copolymer CP is a statistical copolymer.
[0047] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “statistical copolymer” means a copolymer formed of macromolecules in which the sequential distribution of the monomer units (B), (A) if present, and (C) if present, obeys known statistical laws. In other words, in a statistical copolymer, the various monomers follow each other in any order. Statistical copolymers are also known as random copolymers. For example, the sequence of a statistical copolymer, formed from monomers A and B, may be as follows A-A-B-A-B-B-B-B-A-A-B-A.
[0048] The copolymer CP according to the present invention is in particular free of monomer units different from monomers (B), (A) and (C) defined above.
[0049] Monomer (A)
[0050] As mentioned above, the copolymer CP according to the invention may comprise at least one monomer (A) chosen from 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, isobomyl acrylate, isobornyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0051] According to a first variant of the invention, the copolymer CP according to the invention does not comprise any monomer (A). In other words, the copolymer CP according to the invention is then constituted of monomer(s) (B) and monomer(s) (C) as defined above. According to a second variant of the invention, the copolymer CP comprises from 50% to 99% by weight, and preferably from 55% to 95% by weight, of at least one monomer (A) chosen from 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, isobomyl acrylate, isobomyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the monomers.
[0052] 2-Ethylhexyl acrylate, also known as 2-ethylhexyl prop-2-enoate, is a compound of empirical formula C11H20O2, and of semi -structural formula:
[0053] As 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name 2-ethylhexyl acrylate by Sigma-Aldrich.
[0054] 2-Ethylhexyl methacrylate, also known as 2-ethylhexyl 2-methylprop-2- enoate, is a compound of empirical formula C12H22O2 and of structural formula:
[0055] As 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name 2-Ethylhexyl methacrylate by Sigma- Aldrich.
[0056] Isobornyl acrylate is a compound of empirical formula C13H20O2, and of semi- structural formula:
[0057] As isobornyl acrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name Isobornyl acrylate by Sigma-Aldrich.
[0058] Isobornyl methacrylate is a compound of empirical formula C14H22O2, and of structural formula: As isobornyl methacrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name Isobornyl methacrylate by Sigma- Aldrich.
[0059] Preferably, monomer (A) is at least 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and / or isobomyl acrylate.
[0060] According to a third variant of the invention, the copolymer CP comprises at least one monomer (A) chosen from 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, isobomyl acrylate, isobornyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof, in an amount of less than 50% relative to the total weight of the monomers, preferably between 0.01% and 49.9% relative to the total weight of the monomers.
[0061] Monomer (B)
[0062] According to the invention, the copolymer CP comprises from 1% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (B) of formula (I): in which:
[0063] • Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group,
[0064] • Rband Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group,
[0065] • Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, and
[0066] • L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene, or cycloalkylene, group.
[0067] In this formula:
[0068] • Rapreferably represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, preferably a methyl group,
[0069] • Rband Rcpreferably represent a hydrogen atom,
[0070] • Rdpreferably represents a methyl group, and
[0071] • L preferably represents a (Ci-C4)alkylene group, and more preferentially L represents ethylene. In particular, monomer (B) is chosen from acetoacetoxyethyl acrylate, acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably, monomer (B) is acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate.
[0072] Acetoacetoxy ethyl acrylate is a compound of empirical formula C9H12O5, and of semi -structural formula:
[0073] As acetoacetoxy ethyl acrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name Butanoic acid, 3-oxo-2-[(l-oxo-2-propen-l-yl)oxy]ethyl ester by Alfa Chemistry.
[0074] Acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate is a compound of empirical formula C10H14O5, and of semi-structural formula:
[0075] As acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name Eastman™ AAEM by Eastman.
[0076] Monomer (C)
[0077] According to the invention, the copolymer comprises from 0% to 99% by weight of at least one monomer (C) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, silicone macromonomers and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the monomers.
[0078] Thus, according to a variant of the invention, the copolymer CP according to the invention does not comprise any monomer (C). In other words, the copolymer CP according to the invention is then constituted of monomer(s) (B) and monomer(s) (A) as defined above.
[0079] Among the C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates that can be used as monomers (C), mention may be made in particular of methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, n-propyl acrylate, isopropyl acrylate, n-butyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate, tertbutyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate and mixtures thereof. Preferably, monomer (C) is a C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, in particular chosen from butyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate and tert-butyl acrylate.
[0080] Butyl acrylate is a compound of empirical formula C7H13O2 and of semi- structural formula:
[0081] As butyl acrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name Butyl acrylate by Sigma-Aldrich.
[0082] According to a preferred embodiment, monomer (C) is at least one monomer chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and / or C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, preferably chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, and more preferentially monomer (C) is at least butyl acrylate.
[0083] Isobutyl acrylate is a compound of empirical formula C7H12O2 and of semi- structural formula:
[0084] As isobutyl acrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name Isobutyl acrylate by Sigma-Aldrich. tert-Butyl acrylate is a compound of empirical formula C7H12O2 and of semi- structural formula:
[0085] As tert-butyl acrylate, mention may notably be made of the product sold under the name tert-Butyl acrylate by Sigma-Aldrich.
[0086] According to another preferred embodiment, monomer (C) is at least one silicone macromonomer.
[0087] The term “silicone macromonomer” means a silicone macromolecule with an end group that enables it to act as a monomer. The silicone macromonomers will provide a single monomer unit to a chain of the finished macromolecule.
[0088] As regards the silicone macromonomers, they may in particular be polydimethylsiloxanes bearing a monoacryloyloxy or monomethacryloyloxy end group, and notably those of formula (II): in which:
[0089] Rs denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, preferably methyl;
[0090] R9 denotes a linear or branched, preferably linear, divalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and optionally containing one or two -O- ether bonds; preferably ethylene, propylene or butylene;
[0091] Rio denotes a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, notably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; preferably methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or pentyl; n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 300, preferentially ranging from 3 to 200.
[0092] These may notably be polydimethylsiloxane methacrylates and in particular the products sold under the name MCR-M17 by Gelest Inc. or x-22-2475 and x-22- 2426 by Shin-Etsu.
[0093] The silicone macromonomers that are most particularly suitable for use in the invention have a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 200 g.mol'1to 100 000 g.mol'1, and more preferentially from 400 g.mol'1to 20 000 g.mol'1.
[0094] In particular, monomer (C) is at least one silicone macromonomer, more particularly chosen from silicone macromonomers with a glass transition temperature Tgbelow or equal to 25°C, more particularly between -100°C and 25°C, and preferably between -90°C and 0°C.
[0095] According to a preferred embodiment, the monomer (C) is at least one polydimethylsiloxane bearing a mono(meth)acryloyloxy end group.
[0096] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the copolymer CP comprises from 0% to 45% by weight of at least one monomer (C) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, silicone macromonomers, and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the monomers, preferably from 0% to 45% by weight of at least one monomer (C) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, silicone macromonomers, and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the monomers, and at least one monomer (A) as defined previously, more preferentially 50% to 99% of at least one monomer (A) as defined previously.
[0097] According to another particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the copolymer CP comprises from 80% to 99% by weight of at least one monomer (C) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, and preferably the copolymer CP comprises from 80% to 90% by weight of at least one monomer (C) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates relative to the total weight of the monomers, and no monomer (A) as defined previously.
[0098] A particularly preferred copolymer CP is obtained by copolymerizing isobutyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate and acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, preferably in an isobutyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate weight ratio of 25 / 65 / 10.
[0099] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the copolymer CP comprises from 80% to 99% by weight of at least one monomer (C) chosen from silicone macromonomers, and mixtures thereof with C1-C4 alkyl acrylates or with Ci- C4 alkyl methacrylates, relative to the total weight of the monomers, preferably 80% to 99% by weight of a mixture of at least one monomer (C) chosen from silicone macromonomers and at least one monomer (C) chosen from Ci-C4-alkyl acrylates and / or Ci-C4-alkyl methacrylates, relative to the total weight of the monomers; more preferentially, the copolymer CP comprises 80% to 99% by weight of a mixture of at least one monomer (C) chosen from silicone macromonomers and at least one monomer (C) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and / or C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, and no monomer (A) relative to the total weight of the monomers.
[0100] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer CP comprises more than 30% by weight of at least one monomer (C) chosen from Ci- C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, and preferably the copolymer CP comprises from 30.01% to 99% by weight of at least one monomer (C) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates relative to the total weight of the monomers and at least one monomer (A) as defined previously in a non-zero amount of less than 50% relative to the total weight of the monomers. According to this embodiment, the monomers (C) preferably denote C4 alkyl acrylates, C4 alkyl methacrylates or mixtures of C1-C3 alkyl acrylates and / or C1-C3 alkyl methacrylates with C4 alkyl acrylates or C4 alkyl methacrylates.
[0101] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer CP comprises more than 30% by weight of at least one monomer (C) chosen from silicone macromonomers and mixtures thereof with C1-C4 alkyl acrylates or with Ci- C4 alkyl methacrylates, relative to the total weight of the monomers, and preferably the copolymer CP comprises from 30.01% to 99% by weight of at least one monomer (C) chosen from silicone macromonomers and mixtures thereof with C1-C4 alkyl acrylates or with C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, relative to the total weight of the monomers, and at least one monomer (A) as defined previously in a non-zero amount of less than 50% relative to the total weight of the monomers.
[0102] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer CP comprises more than 45% and less than 49% by weight of at least one monomer (C) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, silicone macromonomers, and mixtures thereof and preferably the copolymer CP comprises from 45.01% to 48.99% by weight of at least one monomer (C) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates relative to the total weight of the monomers, and at least one monomer (A) as previously defined in an amount of from 50% to 99% relative to the total weight of the monomers. According to this embodiment, the monomers (C) preferably denote C4 alkyl acrylates, C4 alkyl methacrylates or mixtures of C1-C3 alkyl acrylates and / or C1-C3 alkyl methacrylates with C4 alkyl acrylates or C4 alkyl methacrylates.
[0103] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the copolymer(s) CP in a total content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0104] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the copolymer(s) CP in a total content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0105] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one copolymer CP comprising from 80% to 90% by weight of at least one monomer (C) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates relative to the total weight of the monomers and no monomer (A), in a total content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight and more preferentially ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0106] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one copolymer CP obtained by copolymerizing isobutyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate and acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, preferably in an isobutyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate weight ratio of 25 / 65 / 10, in a total content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight and more preferentially ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0107] Hydrocarbon compounds
[0108] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon compound ii) comprising from 6 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0109] In the present application, the term "hydrocarbon compound" denotes a compound containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms only.
[0110] Preferably, the hydrocarbon compound(s) comprise(s) from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and are chosen from:
[0111] - branched Cs-Cu alkanes (or Cs-Cu isoalkanes also known as Cs-Cu isoparaffins) and notably branched Cio to Ci4 alkanes such as isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4,4,6- pentamethylheptane), isodecane and, for example, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names,
[0112] - linear Cs-Cu alkanes (or Cs-Cu n-alkanes also known as Cs-Cu n-paraffins) and notably linear Cio to Ci4 alkanes such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references, respectively, Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof,
[0113] Preferably, the hydrocarbon compound(s) is (are) chosen from branched Cs to C14 alkanes, more preferentially from branched Cio to C14 alkanes and better still from branched C12 to C14 alkanes.
[0114] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises isododecane.
[0115] Preferably, the total content of hydrocarbon compound(s) ii) in the composition ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 3% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0116] Preferably, the total content of hydrocarbon compound(s) chosen from branched Cs to C14 alkanes ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 3% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferentially, the content of isododecane in the composition ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 3% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0117] Oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds
[0118] The composition according to the invention comprises at least two different oxygencontaining hydrocarbon compounds iii), comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms and at least 2 oxygen atoms.
[0119] In the present application, the term "oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound" denotes a compound constituted solely of carbon, oxygen and hydrogen atoms.
[0120] According to the invention, the oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds iii) comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms and at least 2 oxygen atoms are different from the hydrocarbon compounds ii) comprising from 6 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0121] Preferably, the oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound(s) comprise from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 4 to 10 and better still from 6 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0122] Preferably, the oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound(s) comprise from
[0123] 2 to 6 oxygen atoms, more preferentially from 2 to 4 oxygen atoms and better still 2 or
[0124] 3 oxygen atoms.
[0125] Such compounds are chosen from: a) polyols, for instance glycerol, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, 1,3-propanediol, pentane- 1,2-diol, caprylyl glycol (octane-1, 2- diol), butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, poly glycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols; b) polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether (also known as butoxydiglycol); c) esters comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, N-butyl acetate and isoamyl acetate;
[0126] - and mixtures of these compounds.
[0127] Examples of preferred compounds are hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, N-butyl acetate, isoamyl acetate, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention comprises at least two different oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds as defined above, belonging to two different families from the families a), b) and c) defined above, namely:
[0128] - at least one oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound chosen from polyols a), for example hexylene glycol, and
[0129] - at least one oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound chosen from polyol ethers b) and esters c) comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example from di ethylene glycol monobutyl ether and N-butyl acetate. More preferentially, the composition comprises hexylene glycol and N-butyl acetate.
[0130] Preferably, the total content of oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound(s) iii) as defined above ranges from 10% to 95% by weight, preferably from 15% to 90% by weight, more preferentially from 20% to 85% by weight and better still from 25% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0131] Preferably, the total content of oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound(s) iii) chosen from hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, N-butyl acetate, isoamyl acetate, and mixtures thereof ranges from 10% to 95% by weight, preferably from 15% to 90% by weight, more preferentially from 20% to 85% by weight and better still from 25% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0132] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound chosen from polyols a), for example hexylene glycol, in a content ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and at least one oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound chosen from polyol ethers b) and esters c) comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example from di ethylene glycol monobutyl ether and N-butyl acetate, in a total content ranging from 15% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0133] Colouring agents
[0134] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
[0135] More preferentially, the composition comprises at least one pigment.
[0136] Pigments
[0137] The term "pigment" means any pigment that gives colour to keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%. The pigments that may be used are notably chosen from the organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, notably those described in the Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann ’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
[0138] They may be natural, of natural origin, or non-natural.
[0139] These pigments may be in pigment paste or powder form. They may be coated or uncoated.
[0140] The pigments may be chosen, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special-effect pigments such as nacres or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.
[0141] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. The term “mineral pigment” refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’ s encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.
[0142] The pigment may be an organic pigment. The term “organic pigment” refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’ s Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
[0143] The organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluoran, phthalocyanine, metal-complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
[0144] In particular, the white or coloured organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771. Examples that may also be mentioned include pigment pastes of organic pigments, such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the names:
[0145] - Cosmenyl Yellow 10G: Yellow 3 pigment (CI 11710);
[0146] - Cosmenyl Yellow G: Yellow 1 pigment (CI 11680);
[0147] - Cosmenyl Orange GR: Orange 43 pigment (CI 71105);
[0148] - Cosmenyl Red R: Red 4 pigment (CI 12085);
[0149] - Cosmenyl Carmine FB: Red 5 pigment (CI 12490);
[0150] - Cosmenyl Violet RL: Violet 23 pigment (CI 51319);
[0151] - Cosmenyl Blue A2R: Blue 15.1 pigment (CI 74160);
[0152] - Cosmenyl Green GG: Green 7 pigment (CI 74260);
[0153] - Cosmenyl Black R: Black 7 pigment (CI 77266).
[0154] The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including an inorganic core, at least one binder for attaching the organic pigments to the core, and at least one organic pigment which at least partially covers the core.
[0155] The organic pigment may also be a lake. The term “lake” refers to dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0156] The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
[0157] Among the dyes, mention may be made of carminic acid. Mention may also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0158] An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the following name: D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850: 1).
[0159] The pigment may also be a special-effect pigment. The term “special-effect pigments” means pigments that generally create a coloured appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a certain level of luminance) that is non- uniform and that changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, angles of observation, etc.). They thereby differ from coloured pigments, which afford a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
[0160] Several types of special-effect pigments exist: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index, such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter flakes.
[0161] Examples of special-effect pigments that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as mica covered with titanium and with iron oxides, mica covered with iron oxide, mica covered with titanium and notably with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, mica covered with titanium and with an organic pigment as defined previously, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Nacreous pigments that may be mentioned include the nacres Cellini sold by BASF (mica-TiCh-lake), Prestige sold by Eckart (mica-TiCE), Prestige Bronze sold by Eckart (mica-Fe2O3) and Colorona sold by Merck (mica-TiO2-Fe2O3).
[0162] Mention may also be made of the gold-coloured nacres sold notably by the company BASF under the name Brilliant Gold 212G(Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold notably by the company BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold notably by the company BASF under the name Nu-antique Copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red tint sold notably by the company Merck under the name Sienna Fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red nacres with a gold tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Sunstone GO 12 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold notably by the company BASF under the name Tan Opale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a gold tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Nu-antique Bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with a silvery tint sold notably by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the golden-green pink-orange nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the name Indian Summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.
[0163] Still as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of particles including a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0164] Particles comprising a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name Metashine MC1080RY by Toyal.
[0165] Finally, examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include polyethylene terephthalate glitter flakes, notably those sold by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver glitter flakes). It is also possible to envisage multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates, such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
[0166] The special-effect pigments may also be chosen from reflective particles, i.e. notably from particles whose size, structure, notably the thickness of the layer(s) of which they are made and their physical and chemical nature, and surface state, allow them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have an intensity sufficient to create at the surface of the composition or of the mixture, when it is applied to the support to be made up, highlight points that are visible to the naked eye, i.e. more luminous points that contrast with their environment making them appear to sparkle.
[0167] The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the colouring effect generated by the colouring agents with which they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of colour rendition. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery colour or tint.
[0168] These particles may have varied forms and may notably be in platelet or globular form, in particular in spherical form.
[0169] The reflective particles, whatever their form, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, may have, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, notably of a reflective material.
[0170] When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, notably titanium or iron oxides obtained synthetically.
[0171] When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may include, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, notably a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, notably of at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be made of one or more organic and / or mineral materials.
[0172] More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, notably aluminosilicates and borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting.
[0173] The reflective material may include a layer of metal or of a metallic material.
[0174] Reflective particles are notably described in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
[0175] Again as an example of reflective particles including a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles including a silver- coated borosilicate substrate.
[0176] Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS by the company Toyal. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy are sold under the names Crystal Star GF 550 and GF 2525 by this same company.
[0177] Use may also be made of particles comprising a metal substrate, such as silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze or titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, such as titanium oxide, aluminium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
[0178] Examples that may be mentioned include aluminium powder, bronze powder or copper powder coated with SiCh sold under the name Visionaire by the company Eckart.
[0179] Mention may also be made of interference pigments which are not attached to a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) or interference holographic glitter flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek). Special-effect pigments also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, sold, for example, by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.
[0180] The variety of pigments that may be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a wide range of colours, and also particular optical effects such as metallic effects or interference effects. The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 pm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 pm and more preferentially between 30 nm and 50 pm.
[0181] The pigments may be dispersed in the composition by means of a dispersant.
[0182] The dispersant serves to protect the dispersed particles against agglomeration or flocculation thereof. This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several thereof, bearing one or more functionalities with strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may become physically or chemically attached to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also contain at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12-hydroxy stearic acid in particular and of C8 to C20 fatty acid and of polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol are used, such as poly( 12-hydroxy stearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g / mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or else polyhydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.
[0183] As other dispersants that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, for instance Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C.
[0184] The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent.
[0185] Thus, the pigments surface-treated beforehand of use in the context of the invention are pigments which have been completely or partially subjected to a surface treatment of chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature with an organic agent, such as those which are described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pages 53-64, before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention. These organic agents may be chosen, for example, from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and derivatives thereof, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol and lauric acid and derivatives thereof; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminium salts of fatty acids, for example aluminium stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanolamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, notably polydimethylsiloxanes; organofluorine compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.
[0186] The surface-treated pigments that are useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and / or may have undergone several surface treatments.
[0187] The surface-treated pigments that are useful in the context of the present invention may be prepared according to surface-treatment techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art, or may be commercially available as is.
[0188] Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are coated with an organic layer.
[0189] The organic agent with which the pigments are treated may be deposited on the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surface agent or creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments.
[0190] The surface treatment may thus be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments or the fillers. This method is notably described in patent US 4 578 266.
[0191] An organic agent covalently bonded to the pigments will preferably be used.
[0192] The agent for the surface treatment may represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.
[0193] Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:
[0194] - a PEG-silicone treatment, for instance the AQ surface treatment sold by LCW;
[0195] - a methicone treatment, for instance the SI surface treatment sold by LCW;
[0196] - a dimethicone treatment, for instance the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment sold by LCW;
[0197] - a dimethicone / trimethyl siloxysilicate treatment, for instance the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment sold by LCW; - a magnesium myristate treatment, for instance the MM surface treatment sold by LCW;
[0198] - an aluminium dimyristate treatment, for instance the MI surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;
[0199] - a perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether treatment, for instance the FHC surface treatment sold by LCW;
[0200] - an isostearyl sebacate treatment, for instance the HS surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;
[0201] - a perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, for instance the PF surface treatment sold by Daito;
[0202] - an acrylate / dimethicone copolymer and perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, for instance the FSA surface treatment sold by Daito;
[0203] - a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane / perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, for instance the FS01 surface treatment sold by Daito;
[0204] - an acrylate copolymer / dimethicone treatment, for instance the ASC surface treatment sold by Daito;
[0205] - an isopropyl titanium triisostearate treatment, for instance the ITT surface treatment sold by Daito;
[0206] - an acrylate copolymer treatment, for instance the APD surface treatment sold by Daito;
[0207] - a perfluoroalkyl phosphate / isopropyl titanium triisostearate treatment, for instance the PF + ITT surface treatment sold by Daito.
[0208] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersant is present with organic or mineral pigments in submicron-sized particulate form.
[0209] The term “submicron-sized” or “ submicronic" refers to pigments having a particle size that has been micronized by a micronization method and having a mean particle size of less than a micrometre (pm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.
[0210] According to one embodiment, the dispersant and the pigment(s) are present in a (dispersantpigment) amount, according to a weight ratio, of between 1 : 4 and 4: 1, particularly between 1.5: 3.5 and 3.5: 1 or better still between 1.75: 3 and 3: 1.
[0211] The dispersant(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and dispersants of amino silicone type. Among the suitable dispersants that may be mentioned are: - amino silicones, i.e. silicones comprising one or more amine groups, such as those sold under the following names and references: BYK LPX 21879, par BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, sold by Genesee Polymers,
[0212] - silicone acrylates such as Tego® RC 902, Tego® RC 922, Tego® RC 1041, and Tego® RC 1043, sold by Evonik,
[0213] - polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones bearing carboxylic groups such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, epoxy silicones such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695 by Genesee Polymers, or Tego® RC 1401, Tego® RC 1403, Tego® RC 1412 by Evonik.
[0214] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant(s) are of amino silicone type and are cationic.
[0215] Preferably, the pigment(s) are chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
[0216] In one variant of the invention, the pigment(s) are organic pigments, preferentially organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds. In another variant of the invention, the pigment(s) are mineral pigments.
[0217] Preferably, the pigment(s) are chosen from iron oxides, notably red, brown or black iron oxides. As an example of an iron oxide, mention may be made of the iron oxide sold by the company Sun Chemical under the name SunPuro® Red Iron Oxide.
[0218] The direct dyes
[0219] The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more direct dyes.
[0220] The term “direct dye” means natural and / or synthetic dyes, other than oxidation dyes. These are dyes which will spread superficially on the fibre. They may be ionic, for example cationic or anionic, or nonionic.
[0221] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.
[0222] The direct dyes may be chosen from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as “acid” direct dyes owing to their affinity for alkaline substances. “Anionic direct dye” is understood to mean any direct dye including in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. The anionic dyes may be chosen from direct nitro acid dyes, azo acid dyes, azine acid dyes, triarylmethane acid dyes, indoamine acid dyes, anthraquinone acid dyes, indigoid dyes and natural acid dyes.
[0223] As acid dyes that are useful for the invention, mention may be made of the dyes of formulae (XIX), (XIX’), (XX), (XX’), (XXI), (XXI’), (XXII), (XXII’), (XXIII), (XXIV), (XXV) and (XXVI) below: a) the diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (XIX) or (XIX’):
[0224] (XIX’), in which formulae (XIX) and (XIX’):
[0225] - R7, Rs, R9, Rio, R’7, R’s, R’9 and R’10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
[0226] - alkyl;
[0227] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0228] - hydroxyl, mercapto;
[0229] - nitro, nitroso;
[0230] - R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X’ and X”, which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
[0231] - (O)2S(O')-, M+with M+representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; - (O)CO -, M+with M+as defined previously;
[0232] - R’ ’ -S(O)2-, with R’ ’ representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, an aryl, (di)(alkyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferentially a phenylamino or phenyl group;
[0233] - R”’-S(O)2-X’- with R’” representing an optionally substituted alkyl or aryl group, X’ as defined previously;
[0234] - (di)(alkyl)amino;
[0235] - aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O )-, M+and iv) alkoxy with M+as defined previously;
[0236] - optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferentially a benzothiazolyl group;
[0237] - cycloalkyl, notably cyclohexyl;
[0238] - Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl, (O)2S(O )-, M+or phenylamino groups;
[0239] - or alternatively two contiguous groups R? with Rs or Rs with R9 or R9 with Rio together form a fused benzo group A’; and R’7 with R’s orR’s with R’9 orR’9 with R’10 together form a fused benzo group B’; with A’ and B’ optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O )-, M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X’-; viii) R°-X’-C(X)-; ix) R°-X’- C(X)-X”-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino; with M+, R°, X, X’, X” and Ar as defined previously;
[0240] - W represents a sigma bond c, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i) -NR- with R as defined previously, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or alternatively Ra and Rb form, together with the carbon atom that bears them, a spiro cycloalkyl; preferentially, W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl; it being understood that formulae (XIX) and (XIX’) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+or one carboxylate radical (O)CO -, M+on one of the rings A, A’, B, B’ or C; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
[0241] As examples of dyes of formula (XIX), mention may be made of Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment Red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2; Food Yellow 3 or Sunset Yellow; and, as examples of dyes of formula (XIX’), mention may be made of: Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid Yellow 38; b) the pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (XX) and (XX’):
[0242] (XX’), in which formulae (XX) and (XX’):
[0243] - Rn, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl group or -(O)2S(O ), M+with M+as defined previously;
[0244] - R14 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a group -C(O)O', M+with M+as defined previously;
[0245] - R15 represents a hydrogen atom;
[0246] - Rie represents an oxo group, in which case R’i6 is absent, or alternatively R15 with Rie together form a double bond;
[0247] - R17 and Ris, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from: - (O)2S(O')-, M+with M+as defined previously;
[0248] - Ar-O-S(O)2- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl groups;
[0249] - R19 and R20 together form either a double bond, or a benzo group D’, which is optionally substituted;
[0250] - R’ 16, R’ 19 and R’20, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxyl group;
[0251] - R21 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group;
[0252] - Raand Rb, which may be identical or different, are as defined previously; preferentially, Rarepresents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group;
[0253] - Y represents either a hydroxyl group or an oxo group; <■>» * •» «•»
[0254] > - represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxyl group; it being understood that formulae (XX) and (XX’) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O', M+on one of the rings D or E; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
[0255] As examples of dyes of formula (XX), mention may be made of Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and as examples of dyes of formula (XX’), mention may be made of Acid Yellow 17; c) the anthraquinone dyes of formulae (XXI) and (XXI’):
[0256] (XXI),
[0257]
[0258] (XXF), in which formulae (XXI) and (XXF):
[0259] - R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
[0260] - alkyl;
[0261] - hydroxyl, mercapto;
[0262] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0263] - optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio, preferentially substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O)2S(O )-, M+with M+as defined previously;
[0264] - aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O)2S(O )-, M+with M+as defined previously;
[0265] - (di)(alkyl)amino;
[0266] - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
[0267] - (O)2S(O')-, M+with M+as defined previously;
[0268] - Z’ represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR28R29 with R28 and R29, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
[0269] - alkyl;
[0270] - polyhydroxy alkyl such as hydroxy ethyl;
[0271] - aryl optionally substituted with one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (O)2S(O )-, M+with M+as defined previously; iii) R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R°, X, X’ and X” as defined previously, preferentially R° represents an alkyl group;
[0272] - cycloalkyl, notably cyclohexyl; - Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR’2sR’29 with R’28 and R’29, which may be identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously; it being understood that formulae (XXI) and (XXI’) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O', M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
[0273] As examples of dyes of formula (XXI), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT Violet No. 2; and, as an example of a dye of formula (XXT), mention may be made of: Acid Black 48; d) the nitro dyes of formulae (XXII) and (XXIF): in which formulae (XXII) and (XXII’):
[0274] - R30, R31 and R32, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
[0275] - alkyl;
[0276] - alkoxy optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, alkylthio optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;
[0277] - hydroxyl, mercapto;
[0278] - nitro, nitroso;
[0279] - polyhaloalkyl; - R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R°, X, X’ and X” as defined previously;
[0280] - (O)2S(O')-, M+with M+as defined previously;
[0281] - (O)CO -, M+with M+as defined previously;
[0282] - (di)(alkyl)amino;
[0283] - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
[0284] - heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino; in particular, R30, R31 and R32 represent a hydrogen atom;
[0285] - Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
[0286] - W is as defined previously; W particularly represents an -NH- group;
[0287] - ALK represents a linear or branched divalent Ci-Ce alkylene group; in particular, ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group;
[0288] - n is 1 or 2;
[0289] - p represents an integer inclusively between 1 and 5;
[0290] - q represents an integer inclusively between 1 and 4;
[0291] - u is 0 or 1;
[0292] - when n is 1, J represents a nitro or nitroso group; particularly nitro;
[0293] - when n is 2, J represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical -S(0)m- with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferentially, J represents an -SO2- radical;
[0294] - M’ represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; , which may be present or absent, represents a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups R30 as defined previously; it being understood that formulae (XXII) and (XXII’) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O', M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
[0295] As examples of dyes of formula (XXII), mention may be made of Acid Brown 13 and Acid Orange 3; as examples of dyes of formula (XXII’), mention may be made of Acid Yellow 1, the sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-l-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2-(4’-N,N-(2”-hydroxyethyl)amino-2’- nitro)anilineethanesulfonic acid, 4-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C Yellow 7; e) the triarylmethane dyes of formula (XXIII):
[0296] (XXIII), in which formula (XXIII):
[0297] - R33, R34, R35 and R36, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted with a group (O) m S(O )-, M+with M+and m as defined previously;
[0298] - R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R44, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
[0299] - alkyl;
[0300] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0301] - (di)(alkyl)amino;
[0302] - hydroxyl, mercapto;
[0303] - nitro, nitroso;
[0304] - R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X’ and X”, which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
[0305] - (O)2S(O')-, M+with M+representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
[0306] - (O)CO -, M+with M+as defined previously;
[0307] - or alternatively two contiguous groups R41 with R42 or R42 with R43 or R43 with R44 together form a fused benzo group: I’; with I’ optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O )-, M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X’-; viii) R°-X’-C(X)- and ix) R°-X’- C(X)-X”-; with M+, R°, X, X’ and X” as defined previously; in particular, R37 to R40 represent a hydrogen atom, and R41 to R44, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxy group or (O)2S(O )-, M+; and when R43 with R44 together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted with an (O)2S(O )- group; it being understood that at least one of the rings G, H, I or I’ comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )- or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O'; preferentially sulfonate.
[0308] As examples of dyes of formula (XXIII), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5 and Acid Green 50. f) the xanthene-based dyes of formula (XXIV):
[0309] (XXIV), in which formula (XXIV):
[0310] - R45, R46, R47 and R48, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom;
[0311] - R49, R50, R51 and R52, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:
[0312] - alkyl;
[0313] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0314] - hydroxyl, mercapto;
[0315] - nitro, nitroso;
[0316] - (O)2S(O')-, M+with M+representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
[0317] - (O)CO -, M+with M+as defined previously; particularly, R49, R50, R51 and R52 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom; - G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRewith Reas defined previously; in particular, G represents an oxygen atom;
[0318] - L represents an alkoxide O', M+; a thioalkoxide S', M+or a group NRf, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+as defined previously; M+is particularly sodium or potassium;
[0319] - L’ represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or an ammonium group: N+RfRg, with Rf and Rg, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted alkyl or aryl group; L’ particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or (O)mS(O')-, M+groups with m and M+as defined previously;
[0320] - Q and Q’, which may be identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly, Q and Q’ represent an oxygen atom;
[0321] - M+is as defined previously.
[0322] As examples of dyes of formula (XXIV), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52; Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9; g) the indole-based dyes of formula (XXV):
[0323] (XXV), in which formula (XXV):
[0324] - R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and Reo, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
[0325] - alkyl;
[0326] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0327] - hydroxyl, mercapto;
[0328] - nitro, nitroso;
[0329] - R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X’ and X”, which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; - (0)2S(0‘)-, M+with M+representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
[0330] - (O)CO -, M+with M+as defined previously;
[0331] - G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRewith Reas defined previously; in particular, G represents an oxygen atom;
[0332] - Ri and Rh, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; it being understood that formula (XXIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O', M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate.
[0333] As examples of dyes of formula (XXV), mention may be made of Acid Blue 74; h) the quinoline-based dyes of formula (XXVI):
[0334] (XXVI), in which formula (XXVI):
[0335] - Rei represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group;
[0336] - R62, Res and R64, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (O)2S(O )-, M+with M+representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; or alternatively Rei with Re2, or Rei with Re4, together form a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups (O)2S(O )-, M+with M+representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion; it being understood that formula (XXVI) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+, preferentially sodium sulfonate.
[0337] As examples of dyes of formula (XXVI), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
[0338] Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin and orceins. Use may also be made of extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and particularly henna-based poultices or extracts.
[0339] Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from anionic direct dyes.
[0340] Advantageously, the colouring agent(s) as defined above is (are) present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0341] According to a preferred embodiment, the colouring agent(s) is (are) chosen from pigments.
[0342] The pigment(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0343] Monoalcohols
[0344] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one monoalcohol chosen from C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof.
[0345] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises ethanol.
[0346] When it is (they are) present, the total content of C1-C4 alkanol(s) in the composition ranges preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 30% by weight, even more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0347] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises ethanol in a content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 2% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0348] The composition may notably be in the form of a suspension, a dispersion, a gel, an emulsion, notably an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, or a multiple emulsion (W / O / W or polyol / O / W or O / W / O), in the form of a cream, a mousse, a stick, a dispersion of vesicles, notably of ionic or nonionic lipids, or a two- phase or multi -phase lotion.
[0349] The composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous.
[0350] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous.
[0351] An “anhydrous composition” means a composition comprising a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, this water content is less than 1% by weight, better still less than 0.5% or even less than 0.3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. More particularly, the composition does not comprise any water (0%).
[0352] In particular, said anhydrous composition does not comprise any water added during its preparation, the residual water that may be present possibly originating from the starting materials used during the preparation.
[0353] Alkoxysilanes:
[0354] The composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more alkoxysilanes.
[0355] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one alkoxy silane chosen from the compounds of formula (I), (T) or (II) hereinbelow, oligomers thereof and / or mixtures thereof.
[0356] The compounds of formula (I) or (T) have the following formulae:
[0357] (I ) in which:
[0358] - Rarepresents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted with an aryl group; an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms;
[0359] - Rb and Re, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, notably an ethyl group, it being understood that if Ra does not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb and Re cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom;
[0360] - Rd and Re, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl group containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; an aminoalkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms;
[0361] - A independently represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, which may be interrupted with at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH;
[0362] - Q represents a carbonyl group (CO);
[0363] - r denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1.
[0364] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (I), oligomers thereof and / or mixtures thereof, mention may notably be made of 3 -aminopropyltri ethoxy silane (APTES), 3- aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane (APMDES), 3-ureidopropyltrimethoxysilane and N-cy cl ohexy 1 aminomethy Itri ethoxy sil ane .
[0365] APTES may be purchased, for example, from the company Dow Coming under the name Xiameter OFS-6011 Silane or from the company Momentive Performance Materials under the name Silsoft A-l 100 or from the company Shin-Etsu under the name KBE-903.
[0366] The compounds of formula (I) may also denote Dynasylan SIVO 210 or Dynasylan 1505 sold by the company Evonik.
[0367] 3 -Ureidopropyltrimethoxy silane may be purchased, for example, from the company Gelest under the reference SIU9058.0.
[0368] N-Cycloheylaminomethyltriethoxysilane may be purchased, for example, from the company Wacker under the name Geniosil XL 926. Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (I’), oligomers thereof and / or mixtures thereof, mention may notably be made of N,N-bis[3- (trimethoxysilyl)propyl]ethylenediamine (CAS RN: 74956-86-8), Nl,Nl-bis[3- (triethoxysilyl)propyl]-l,2-ethanediamine (CAS RN: 457065-96-2), 1,2- ethanediamine, Nl-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-Nl-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]- (CAS RN: 1638528-78-5), and mixtures thereof.
[0369] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) for which:
[0370] - Ra represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, or an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably an ethoxy;
[0371] - Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as an ethyl;
[0372] - Rd and Re, which are identical, represent a hydrogen atom or Rd denotes a hydrogen atom and Re denotes a Cs-Ce cycloalkyl radical such as cyclohexyl;
[0373] - A independently represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, which may be interrupted with at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH;
[0374] - r denotes an integer equal to 0.
[0375] More preferentially, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which Ra represents an ethoxy group, Rb and Re are identical and represent an ethyl, Rd and Re represent a hydrogen atom, A represents a propylene and r denotes an integer equal to 0.
[0376] According to a preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilane of formula (I) is 3- aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES).
[0377] The compounds of formula (II) have the following formula: in which:
[0378] - Rarepresents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted with an aryl group; an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy, or an aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms;
[0379] - Rb represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, notably an ethyl group;
[0380] - Rcrepresents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted with an aryl group; an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy, or an aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; it being understood that if Raand Rcdo not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb cannot represent a hydrogen atom;
[0381] - k denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 5, preferably ranging from 0 to 3;
[0382] - Rf represents a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; or a group of formula (Ila) below: in which Rn represents a hydroxyl group (OH); an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl.
[0383] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (II), oligomers thereof and / or mixtures thereof, mention may notably be made of tetraethoxysilane (TEOS), methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS), methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), dimethyldiethoxysilane (DMDES), diethyldiethoxysilane, dipropyldiethoxysilane, propyltri ethoxy sil ane, i sobuty Itri ethoxy sil ane, pheny Itri ethoxy sil ane, phenylmethyldiethoxysilane, diphenyldiethoxysilane, benzyltriethoxysilane, benzylmethyldiethoxysilane, dibenzyldiethoxysilane, acetoxymethyltriethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane (OTES) and mixtures thereof.
[0384] TEOS may be purchased, for example, from the company Evonik under the name Dynasylan® A or Dynasylan® A SQ. MTES may be purchased, for example, from the company Evonik under the name Dynasylan® MTES.
[0385] DMDES may be purchased, for example, from the company Gelest under the reference SID3404.0.
[0386] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), oligomers thereof and / or mixtures thereof are such that:
[0387] - Ra represents an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy; or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted with an aryl group, preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms optionally substituted with an aryl group;
[0388] - Rb represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, such as a methyl or an ethyl;
[0389] - Re represents an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, such as a methoxy or an ethoxy;
[0390] - k denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0;
[0391] - Rf represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl.
[0392] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), oligomers thereof and / or mixtures thereof are such that:
[0393] - Rarepresents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, such as a methyl or an ethyl;
[0394] - Rb represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, such as a methyl or an ethyl;
[0395] - Re represents an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, such as a methoxy or an ethoxy;
[0396] - k denotes an integer equal to 0;
[0397] - Rf represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl. According to a preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II) are chosen from octyltriethoxysilane (OTES), methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS), methyltriethoxysilane (MTES) and mixtures thereof.
[0398] According to a more preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II) are methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) and / or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES).
[0399] For the purposes of the present invention, an “oligomer” denotes compound(s) comprising at least 2 silicon atoms, obtained by oligomerization or polymerization of compounds of formula (I), (f) or (II).
[0400] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) are chosen from amino alkoxysilanes, notably from those of formula (I), such as 3 -aminopropyltri ethoxy silane (APTES), 3- aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane (APMDES), and mixtures thereof.
[0401] When the composition comprises one or more alkoxysilanes, their total content is advantageously in the range of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0402] The additives
[0403] The composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used in cosmetic compositions intended for treating keratin fibres.
[0404] Among the additives that may be contained in the composition, mention may be made of reducing agents, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, clays, mineral fillers, UV-screening agents, peptizers, fragrances, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, polymers other than the CPs described above, preserving agents amino or non-amino silicones, oils, waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0405] The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0406] The treatment method
[0407] Another subject of the present invention is a method for treating keratin fibres comprising the application of the above composition to said fibres.
[0408] According to a preferred embodiment, the process further comprises a step of applying an additional composition A, different from the composition according to the invention, and which comprises at least one aminoalkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (T) as described above, oligomers thereof and / or mixtures thereof. This step, carried out sequentially with the application of the composition according to the invention, can be carried out before and / or after the application of the composition according to the invention, and preferably before the application of the composition according to the invention.
[0409] The application of the compositions to the keratin fibres may be performed on said fibres, which may be wet or dry.
[0410] Preferably, the keratin fibres are hair. The composition according to the invention may be applied to all types of light or dark, natural or dyed, permanent- waved, bleached or relaxed hair.
[0411] The application to the hair may be performed via any conventional means, in particular using a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush, a sponge or with the fingers.
[0412] The application of composition C to the hair is generally performed at room temperature (between 15°C and 25°C).
[0413] After applying the composition, the hair may be left to dry or may be dried, for example at a temperature above or equal to 30°C.
[0414] The process according to the invention may also comprise, after applying the composition, a step of applying heat to the keratin fibres using a heating device.
[0415] Such a device may be, for example, a hood, a hair dryer, a straightening or curling iron, a Climazon, etc. Preferably, the step of applying heat is performed using a hair dryer.
[0416] During the step of applying heat to the hair, a mechanical action may be exerted on the locks, such as combing, brushing or running the fingers through.
[0417] When the step of applying heat to the hair is performed using a hood or a hairdryer, the temperature is preferably between 30°C and 110°C, preferentially between 50°C and 90°C.
[0418] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, and the treatment method is a method for colouring keratin fibres.
[0419] Such a method provides a particularly uniform colouring of the fibres, while being persistent with respect to shampoo washes.
[0420] The invention also relates to the use of the composition for caring for keratin fibres, and in particular the hair.
[0421] The use is as described above, in the context of the treatment method. The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific features, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention.
[0422] EXAMPLES
[0423] The examples below use an isobutyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate / acetoacetoxy ethyl methacrylate (25 / 65 / 10) copolymer CP synthesized according to the protocol described below:
[0424] 62.5 g of isobutyl acrylate, 162.5 g of tert-butyl acrylate, 25 g of acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate, 2.5 g of Trigonox T21S radical initiator and 360 g of an isododecane / ethyl acetate (50 / 50) solvent are introduced into a 1 L pilot reactor. The medium is degassed with argon and then heated to 90°C with stirring. The reaction medium is kept for 7 hours at 90°C. Stripping with 300 ml of isododecane is then performed to remove the residual monomers. On conclusion of the reaction, a polymer in solution in isododecane is obtained.
[0425] Example 1 : Preparation of compositions
[0426] The compositions below were prepared, by mixing the ingredients indicated in Table 1 below in which the contents are expressed as percentages by weight of starting material, relative to the total weight of the composition (a.m. signifying active material).
[0427] [Table 1]
[0428] (1) isobutyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate (25 / 65 / 10 by weight) statistical copolymer obtained according to the preparation process described above, as a 65.4% by weight solution in isododecane;
[0429] (2) sold under the name Tarox Iron Oxide R-516 HP by the company Titan Kogyo.
[0430] Example 2: Evaluation of the compositions
[0431] The compositions A to C from Example 1 were evaluated on 1 g locks of natural hair containing 90% white hair.
[0432] The application protocol is as follows:
[0433] Each composition is applied to a lock of dry hair in a proportion of 0.6 g of composition (bath ratio of 0.6 g per g of hair). It is spread with a finger over the lock.
[0434] After a leave-on time of 2 minutes, the lock is dried using a thermal brush and a hair dryer.
[0435] Evaluations in terms of resistance of the colouring to shampoo washing were then carried out 24 hours after applying the composition. The resistance to shampoo washing was evaluated by measuring the colorimetric data of each of the locks.
[0436] The colorimetric measurements were performed using a Konica Minolta 3600 spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
[0437] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the lightness of the colour, a* indicates the green / red colour axis and b* the blue / yellow colour axis.
[0438] The smaller the value of L*, the stronger the colouring obtained.
[0439] The persistence of the colouring is evaluated by the colour difference AE between the coloured locks before shampoo washing, then after having undergone 5 successive shampoo washes. The lower the AE value, the more persistent the colour with respect to shampoo washing.
[0440] The AE value is calculated according to the following equation: In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured after colouring the hair and after having undergone 5 shampoo washes, and Lo*, ao* and bo* represent the values measured after colouring the hair but before the 5 shampoo washes.
[0441] The results obtained are collated in Table 2 below.
[0442] [Table 2]
[0443] The colouring obtained before undergoing the 5 shampoo washes is stronger with the two compositions (lower L* values) according to the invention compared with the comparative composition.
[0444] The locks of hair coloured with the two compositions according to the invention have a colour difference AE between the coloured locks before shampoo washing and then after having undergone 5 shampoo washes, which is much smaller than the lock coloured with composition A. The persistence of the colouring obtained with compositions B and C according to the invention is therefore significantly improved compared with the colouring obtained with comparative composition A.
[0445] Thus, the coloured coating obtained by means of the compositions according to the invention has a stronger colouring and an improved persistence with respect to shampoo washing.
Claims
CLAIMS1. Cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, comprising: i) at least one copolymer CP comprising repeating units obtained from:- 0% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (A) chosen from 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, isobornyl acrylate, isobornyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof;- 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (B) of formula (I):in which:• Rarepresents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-C4)alkyl group;• Rband Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group;• Rdrepresents a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group; and• L represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkylene or cycloalkylene group; and- 0% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, of at least one monomer (C) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, silicone macromonomers and mixtures thereof; it being understood that said copolymer CP is obtained by polymerization of at least one monomer (B) with at least one monomer (A) and / or at least one monomer (C); ii) at least one hydrocarbon compound constituted of carbon and hydrogen atoms, comprising from 6 to 16 carbon atoms; and iii) at least two different oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms and at least 2 oxygen atoms, namely:- a) at least one oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound chosen from polyols, and- at least one oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound chosen from b) polyol ethers and c) esters comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the copolymer CP comprises from 80% to 99% by weight of at least one monomer (C) chosen from Ci- C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates; and preferably the copolymer CP comprises from 80% to 90% by weight of at least one monomer (C) chosen from Ci- C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates relative to the total weight of the monomers, and no monomer (A).
3. Composition according to either one of the preceding claims, characterised in that it comprises the copolymer(s) CP in a total content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon compound(s) ii) comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms and are chosen from:- branched Cs to C14 and in particular C10 to C14 alkanes,- linear Cs to C14 and in particular C10 to C14 alkanes; and preferably from branched Cs to C14 alkanes, more preferentially from branched C10 to C14 alkanes and better still from branched C12 to C14 alkanes.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of hydrocarbon compound(s) ii) ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 3% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds iii) comprise from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 4 to 10 and better still from 6 to 8 carbon atoms.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds iii) are chosen from: a) polyols chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, 1,3-propanediol, pentane- 1,2-diol, caprylyl glycol (octane-1, 2- diol), butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, poly glycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols; b) polyol ethers chosen from 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether (also known as butoxydiglycol); c) esters comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms chosen from ethyl acetate, propylacetate, N-butyl acetate and isoamyl acetate;- and mixtures of these compounds.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises hexylene glycol, and at least one compound selected from diethylene glycol monobutyl ether and N-butyl acetate.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound(s) iii) ranges from 10% to 95% by weight, preferably from 15% to 90% by weight, more preferentially from 20% to 85% by weight, and better still from 25% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably the content of oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound chosen from polyols a) ranges from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and the content of oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound chosen from polyol ethers b) and esters c) ranges from 15% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, and preferably at least one pigment.
11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the colouring agent(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one monoalcohol chosen from C1-C4 alkanols, in a preferential total content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 30% by weight, more preferentially still from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is anhydrous.
14. Method for treating keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the application to said fibres of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.
15. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises, after application of the composition, a step of applying heat to the keratin fibres using a heating device.
16. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 10 to 13, for dyeing keratin fibres, and in particular the hair.
Citation Information
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