Cosmetic shake emulsion with high light protection factor
The cosmetic shake emulsion addresses the challenge of achieving high sun protection and stability by using an O/W emulsion with specific UV filters and natural polymers, while avoiding certain undesirable ingredients, resulting in a formulation with a high SPF and low viscosity.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2024/086779
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-21
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-17
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-26
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic emulsions, including shake emulsions, face challenges in achieving long-term stability while also providing high sun protection factors, particularly due to consumer demand for formulations free from certain UV filter substances and synthetic polymers.
A cosmetic shake emulsion based on an O/W emulsion containing UV filter substances, polyglyceryl-6 stearates, and polyglyceryl-6 behenates, without polyacrylates, certain UV filters, and EDTA, with a viscosity of less than 2000 mPas, and incorporating specific natural polymers and lipids to enhance stability and sun protection.
The solution achieves a high sun protection factor of at least 50 while maintaining a low viscosity, ensuring stability and sensory advantages, and meeting consumer demands for ingredient avoidance.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] Description
[0002] Cosmetic shake emulsion with high sun protection factor
[0003] The present invention relates to a cosmetic shake emulsion based on an O / W emulsion containing one or more UV filter substances, polyglyceryl-6 stearates and polyglyceryl-6 behenates, wherein the preparation is free from polyacrylates (INCI: carbomers), octocrylene, 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: homosalate), 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and EDTA and the preparation has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPas, preferably less than 1000 mPas.
[0004] The desire to look beautiful and attractive is deeply rooted in human nature. Although the ideal of beauty has evolved over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been a human goal. The condition and appearance of the skin play a significant role in achieving a beautiful and attractive appearance.
[0005] Skin care products typically consist of emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood to be heterogeneous systems consisting of two immiscible or only slightly miscible liquids, commonly referred to as phases, in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the other in the form of tiny droplets. Externally and to the naked eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.
[0006] If the two liquids are water and oil, and oil droplets are finely dispersed in the water, the emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g., milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is determined by the water. A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g., butter) applies the opposite principle, with the basic character being determined by the oil. However, the multitude of commercially available cosmetic emulsions should not obscure the fact that these state-of-the-art preparations have a number of disadvantages.
[0007] A special form of cosmetic emulsion is the “shake emulsion.” These are emulsions that completely separate into their phases within 48 hours at room temperature.
[0008] Typically, developers in cosmetics aim to create long-term stable emulsions. However, consumers also desire two-phase systems that are homogenized by shaking before use. To satisfy consumers' playful instincts and to exploit the optical effects of two-phase systems, there is a need not only for long-term stable emulsions but also for multi-phase emulsions that combine the care properties with the sensory advantages of single-phase systems. Therefore, the objective of the present invention was to develop such a "shake emulsion."
[0009] The stability of emulsions depends on a variety of factors. In addition to the emulsifier system, polymers (e.g., polyacrylates) and the individual components of the oil and water phases also influence the tendency toward phase separation. For example, the effect of salts in the water phase is well known, increasing the polarity of the water phase and causing the phases to separate more quickly.
[0010] If, in addition, the cosmetic preparation is to function as a sunscreen by adding UV filter substances, the complexity of the problem is further increased: sulfonic acid salts in the aqueous phase influence the polarity of the aqueous phase and can, under certain circumstances, have a surface-active effect.
[0011] Relatively poorly soluble lipophilic UV filter substances such as triazines or (tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane must be kept in solution.
[0012] Last but not least, the phase arrangement O / W emulsion or W / O emulsion as well as the polarity of the oil phase influence the sun protection factor that can be achieved with the preparation.
[0013] According to the state of the art, it was previously common practice to achieve the dissolution of the poorly soluble organic UV filter substances and the polarity of the lipophilic phase with the aid of UV filters that were liquid at room temperature. This was done, for example, with ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, octocrylene, and / or ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. These compounds not only solved the stability problems but also provided the preparations with high UV protection. However, in recent years, the use of these liquid UV filters has become increasingly undesirable among consumers. There are also public discussions about the use of synthetic polymers such as polyacrylates or the use of EDTA. Whether the concerns regarding the use of these compounds are scientifically justified can be left open within the scope of the present disclosure. The fact remains, however, that consumers demand preparations that avoid these ingredients.
[0014] The objective of the present invention was therefore to develop a "shake emulsion" free of these UV filter substances. However, since the demand for high sun protection factors naturally persists, the preparation to be developed should have a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 50.
[0015] The object is achieved by a cosmetic shake emulsion based on an O / W emulsion containing a) one or more UV filter substances, b) polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate c) wherein the preparation is free from polyacrylates (INCI: Carbomers), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate) and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Homosalate), 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) and EDTA and d) the preparation has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPas, preferably less than 1000 mPas, measured with a rotational viscometer (Rheomat 123, spindle / measuring body VT01, proRheo) at 25 °C.
[0016] For the purposes of the invention, "shake emulsion based on an O / W emulsion" is understood to mean an oil-in-water emulsion that completely separates into its phases within one to three hours at room temperature (25 °C) in the Lumifuge test. The Lumifuge test is carried out in the "LUMIFuge" centrifuge from LUM GmbH at a rotation speed of 1173 rpm (200 g) and a light factor of 1 at 25 °C.
[0017] The advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the preparation contains polymers from the group of gums, starches, and celluloses in a maximum concentration of 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. As can be seen from the comparative experiment (see below), higher contents of these natural polymers lead to a higher viscosity and a significant decrease in the sun protection factor (SPF) measured in vivo.
[0018] It is furthermore advantageous according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate in a total concentration of 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0019] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are also characterized in that the preparation contains glyceryl stearate in a concentration of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0020] It is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the cosmetic shake emulsion contains sodium salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (INCI: Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate) in a concentration of 0.01 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0021] According to the invention, it is preferred if the cosmetic shake emulsion is characterized in that the preparation contains hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2 hydroxybenzoyl] benzoate (INCI: Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) and / or 4-(tert.-butyl)-4'-methoxydi benzoyl methane.
[0022] The advantageous use concentration for hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2 hydroxybenzoyl] benzoate (INCI: Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) according to the invention is from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0023] The advantageous use concentration for 4-(tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane according to the invention is from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0024] Cosmetic shake emulsions preferred according to the invention are further characterized in that the preparation contains 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone) and / or 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydro xy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine). The advantageous use concentration for 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-T-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone) according to the invention is from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0025] The advantageous use concentration according to the invention for 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INGI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine) is from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0026] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts. The sodium salt is particularly preferred according to the invention.
[0027] The advantageous use concentration for 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts according to the invention is from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0028] Cosmetic shake emulsions advantageous according to the invention are also characterized in that the preparation contains one or more lipids selected from the group of the compounds di-n-butyl adipate, isopropyl palmitate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / diaprate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and / or carnauba wax.
[0029] The advantageous use concentration for di-n-butyl adipate according to the invention is from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0030] The advantageous use concentration for isopropyl palmitate according to the invention is from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0031] The advantageous use concentration for butylene glycol dicaprylate / diaprate according to the invention is from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0032] The advantageous use concentration for C12-15 alkyl benzoate according to the invention is from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0033] The advantageous use concentration for carnauba wax according to the invention is from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0034] Last but not least, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains hydroxypropyl starch phosphate in a concentration of not more than 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Comparative experiment
[0035] The following formulations were prepared and the in-vivo sun protection factor was determined.
Claims
Patent claims 1. Cosmetic shake emulsion based on an O / W emulsion containing a) one or more UV filter substances, b) polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate c) wherein the preparation is free from polyacrylates (INCI: Carbomers), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate) and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Homosalate), 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) and EDTA and d) the preparation has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPas, preferably less than 1000 mPas, measured with a rotational viscometer (Rheomat 123, spindle / measuring body VT01, proRheo) at 25 °C.
2. Cosmetic shake emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the preparation contains polymers from the group of gums, starches and celluloses in a concentration of not more than 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
3. Cosmetic shake emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate in a total concentration of 0.01 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
4. Cosmetic shake emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains glyceryl stearate in a concentration of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
5. Cosmetic shake emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains sodium salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (INCI: Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate) in a concentration of 0.01 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
6. Cosmetic shake emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate (INCI: Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) and / or 4 (tert.-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane.
7. Cosmetic shake emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone) and / or 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydro xy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine).
8. Cosmetic shake emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts.
9. Cosmetic shake emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains one or more lipids selected from the group of the compounds di-n-butyl adipate, isopropyl palmitate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / diaprate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and / or carnauba wax.
10. Cosmetic shake emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains hydroxypropyl starch phosphate in a concentration of at most 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
BI-phase sun care composition
WO2021125071A1
Ecobiological sunscreen composition comprising organic UV filters and environmentally friendly oil copolymers
WO2023083762A1