Cosmetic shake emulsion having alkanediols

The cosmetic shake emulsion, utilizing alkane-1,2-diols and polyglyceryl esters in an O/W emulsion, addresses the challenge of achieving high sun protection and stability without undesirable UV filter substances, resulting in a stable and effective sunscreen emulsion.

WO2025132354A1PCT designated stage expired Publication Date: 2025-06-26BEIERSDORF AG
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Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/EP2024/086788
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-12-21
Filing Date
2024-12-17
Publication Date
2025-06-26

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic emulsions, particularly shake emulsions, face challenges in achieving long-term stability while also providing high sun protection factors without using undesirable UV filter substances like polyacrylates, ethylhexyl salicylate, and homosalate.

Method used

A cosmetic shake emulsion based on an O/W emulsion containing alkane-1,2-diols, polyglyceryl-6 stearates, and polyglyceryl-6 behenates, which is free from certain UV filter substances and has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPas, effectively regulating phase separation and providing high sun protection.

Benefits of technology

The emulsion achieves a sun protection factor of at least 50 while maintaining stability and sensory advantages, addressing consumer demands for UV filter-free formulations and long-term stability.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic shake emulsion based on an O / W emulsion containing a) one or more alkane-1,2-diols, b) polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate, c) wherein the preparation is free of polyacrylates (INCI: Carbomers), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate) and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Homosalate), 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) and EDTA, and d) the preparation has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPas.
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Description

[0001] Cosmetic shake emulsion with alkanediols

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic shake emulsion based on an O / W emulsion containing a) one or more alkane-1,2-diols b) polyglyceryl-6 stearates and polyglyceryl-6 behenates c) wherein the preparation is free from polyacrylates (INCI: Carbomers), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate) and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Homosalate), 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) and EDTA and d) the preparation has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPas, preferably less than 1000 mPas.

[0003] The desire to look beautiful and attractive is deeply rooted in human nature. Although the ideal of beauty has evolved over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been a human goal. The condition and appearance of the skin play a significant role in achieving a beautiful and attractive appearance.

[0004] Skin care products typically consist of emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood to be heterogeneous systems consisting of two immiscible or only slightly miscible liquids, commonly referred to as phases, in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the other in the form of tiny droplets. Externally and to the naked eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.

[0005] If the two liquids are water and oil, and oil droplets are finely dispersed in the water, the emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g., milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is determined by the water. A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g., butter) applies the opposite principle, with the basic character being determined by the oil. However, the multitude of commercially available cosmetic emulsions should not obscure the fact that these state-of-the-art preparations have a number of disadvantages.

[0006] A special form of cosmetic emulsion is the “shake emulsion.” These are emulsions that completely separate into their phases within 48 hours at room temperature.

[0007] Typically, developers in cosmetics aim to create long-term stable emulsions. However, consumers also desire two-phase systems that are homogenized by shaking before use. To satisfy consumers' playful instincts and to exploit the optical effects of two-phase systems, there is a need not only for long-term stable emulsions but also for multi-phase emulsions that combine the care properties with the sensory advantages of single-phase systems. Therefore, the objective of the present invention was to develop such a "shake emulsion."

[0008] The stability of emulsions depends on a variety of factors. In addition to the emulsifier system, polymers (e.g., polyacrylates) and the individual components of the oil and water phases also influence the tendency toward phase separation. For example, the effect of salts in the water phase is well known, increasing the polarity of the water phase and causing the phases to separate more quickly.

[0009] If, in addition, the cosmetic preparation is to function as a sunscreen by adding UV filter substances, the complexity of the problem is further increased: sulfonic acid salts in the aqueous phase influence the polarity of the aqueous phase and can, under certain circumstances, have a surface-active effect.

[0010] Relatively poorly soluble lipophilic UV filter substances such as triazines or (tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane must be kept in solution.

[0011] Last but not least, the phase arrangement O / W emulsion or W / O emulsion as well as the polarity of the oil phase influence the sun protection factor that can be achieved with the preparation.

[0012] According to the state of the art, it was previously common practice to achieve the dissolution of the poorly soluble organic UV filter substances and the polarity of the lipophilic phase using UV filters that were liquid at room temperature. This was done, for example, with ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, octocrylene, and / or ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. These compounds not only solved the stability problems but also provided the preparations with high UV protection.

[0013] However, in recent years, the use of these liquid UV filters has become increasingly undesirable among consumers. There is also public debate about the use of synthetic polymers such as polyacrylates or EDTA. Whether the concerns regarding the use of these compounds are scientifically justified can be left open within the scope of this disclosure. However, the fact remains that consumers are demanding products that avoid these ingredients.

[0014] The objective of the present invention was therefore to develop a "shake emulsion" free of these UV filter substances. However, since the demand for high sun protection factors naturally persists, the preparation to be developed should have a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 50.

[0015] In order to offer "shake emulsions" for UV filter-free formulations, such as night care products, substances are fundamentally required that can regulate the separation time of the phases. According to the state of the art, the separation behavior of the emulsion was generally a random product resulting from the overall formulation.

[0016] It was therefore the object of the present invention to find means by which the phase separation behavior can be adjusted more specifically.

[0017] Surprisingly, the objects are achieved by a cosmetic shake emulsion based on an O / W emulsion containing a) one or more alkane-1,2-diols b) polyglyceryl-6 stearates and polyglyceryl-6 behenates c) the preparation being free from polyacrylates (INCI: Carbomers), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate) and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Homosalate), 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) and EDTA and d) the preparation has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPas, preferably below 1000 mPas, measured with a rotational viscometer (Rheomat 123, spindle / measuring body VT01, proRheo) at 25 °C.

[0018] Surprisingly, the tasks are also solved by the use of alkane-1,2-diols for regulating the phase separation of cosmetic shake emulsions based on O / W emulsions containing

[0019] Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate and Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, whereby the preparation is free from polyacrylates (INCI: Carbomers), 2-Ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate) and 3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Homosalate), 3-(4-Methylbenzylidene)-camphor, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), Ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-Ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) and EDTA and the preparation has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPas, preferably below 1000 mPas, measured with a rotational viscometer (Rheomat 123, spindle / measuring body VT01 order number, company proRheo) at 25 °C.

[0020] For the purposes of the invention, "shake emulsion based on an O / W emulsion" is understood to mean an oil-in-water emulsion that completely separates into its phases within one to three hours at room temperature (25 °C) in the Lumifuge test. The Lumifuge test is carried out in the "LUMIFuge" centrifuge from LUM GmbH at a rotation speed of 1173 rpm (200 g) and a light factor of 1 at 25 °C.

[0021] In the context of the present disclosure, formulations such as “according to the invention”, “advantageous within the meaning of the present invention”, etc. always refer to the emulsion according to the invention as well as to the use according to the invention, unless otherwise stated.

[0022] It is advantageous according to the invention if 1,2-decanediol, 1,2-octanediol or 1,2-hexanediol is used as the alkane-1,2-diol.

[0023] According to the invention, it is preferred if 1,2-decanediol is used as the alkane-1,2-diol.

[0024] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the shake emulsion alkane-1,2-diols are used in a total concentration of 0.01 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0025] It is furthermore advantageous according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate in a total concentration of 0.01 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0026] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are also characterized in that the preparation contains glyceryl stearate in a concentration of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. It is also advantageous within the meaning of the present invention if the cosmetic shake emulsion contains sodium salts of ethylenediamine disuccinate (INCI: Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate) in a concentration of 0.01 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0027] According to the invention, it is preferred if the cosmetic shake emulsion is characterized in that the preparation contains hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2 hydroxy benzoyl] benzoate (INCI: Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) and / or 4-(tert.-butyl)-4'-methoxydi benzoyl methane.

[0028] The advantageous use concentration for hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2 hydroxybenzoyl] benzoate (INCI: Diethylamino hydroxy benzoyl hexyl benzoate) according to the invention is from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0029] The advantageous use concentration for 4-(tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane according to the invention is from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0030] Cosmetic shake emulsions preferred according to the invention are further characterized in that the preparation contains 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone) and / or 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydro xy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine).

[0031] The advantageous use concentration according to the invention for 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone) is from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0032] The advantageous use concentration according to the invention for 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine) is from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0033] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts. The sodium salt is particularly preferred according to the invention. The advantageous use concentration for 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts according to the invention is from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0034] Cosmetic shake emulsions advantageous according to the invention are also characterized in that the preparation contains one or more lipids selected from the group of the compounds di-n-butyl adipate, isopropyl palmitate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / diapratate, 012-15 alkyl benzoate and / or carnauba wax.

[0035] The advantageous use concentration for di-n-butyl adipate according to the invention is from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0036] The advantageous use concentration for isopropyl palmitate according to the invention is from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0037] The advantageous use concentration for butylene glycol dicaprylate / diaprate according to the invention is from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0038] The advantageous use concentration for C12-15 alkyl benzoate according to the invention is from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0039] The advantageous use concentration for carnauba wax according to the invention is from 0.01 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0040] Last but not least, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains hydroxypropyl starch phosphate in a concentration of at most 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0041] Comparison test

[0042] The following formulations were prepared and tested in the Lumifuge under the above conditions:

Claims

Patent claims 1. Cosmetic shake emulsion based on an O / W emulsion containing a) one or more alkane-1,2-diols b) polyglyceryl-6 stearates and polyglyceryl-6 behenates c) wherein the preparation is free from polyacrylates (INCI: Carbomers), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate) and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Homosalate), 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) and EDTA and d) the preparation has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPas, preferably below 1000 mPas, measured with a rotational viscometer (Rheomat 123, spindle / measuring body VT01, proRheo) at 25 °C.

2. Use of alkane-1,2-diols for regulating the phase separation of cosmetic shake emulsions based on O / W emulsions containing polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate, wherein the preparation is free from polyacrylates (INCI: Carbomers), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate) and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Homosalate), 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) and EDTA and the preparation has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPas, preferably below 1000 mPas, measured with a rotational viscometer (Rheomat 123, spindle / measuring body VT01, proRheo) at 25 °C.

3. Emulsion according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that 1,2-decanediol, 1,2-octanediol or 1,2-hexanediol is used as the alkane-1,2-diol.

4. Emulsion or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that 1,2-decanediol is used as the alkane-1,2-diol.

5. Emulsion or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the shake emulsion alkane-1,2-diols are used in a total concentration of 0.01 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

6. Emulsion or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate in a total concentration of 0.01 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

7. Emulsion or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains glyceryl stearate in a concentration of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

8. Emulsion or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains sodium salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (INCI: Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate) in a concentration of 0.01 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

9. Emulsion or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate (INGI: diethylamino hydroxy benzoyl hexyl benzoate) and / or 4-(tert.-butyl)-4'-methoxydi benzoyl methane.

10. Emulsion or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone) and / or 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine).

11. Emulsion or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts.

12. Emulsion or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains one or more lipids selected from the group of the compounds di-n-butyl adipate, isopropyl palmitate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / diaprate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and / or carnauba wax.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

  • BI-phase sun care composition

    WO2021125071A1

  • Ecobiological sunscreen composition comprising organic UV filters and environmentally friendly oil copolymers

    WO2023083762A1