Composition for lightening keratin fibers and process for lightening keratin fibers using said composition
A composition combining (bi)carbonates, silicates, fatty acids, and fatty substances, with reduced persulfate content, addresses the challenges of hair lightening by providing effective, even lightening with minimal hair degradation and compatibility with dyeing processes.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2024/087058
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-20
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-18
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-26
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair lightening compositions, particularly those containing persulfates, often result in unsatisfactory lightening with unwanted yellow and/or orange tints, and can degrade hair quality. Additionally, these compositions are difficult to mix and apply evenly, especially on curly or frizzy hair, and are not compatible with simultaneous bleaching and dyeing processes.
A composition comprising (bi)carbonates, silicates, fatty acids, and fatty substances, with a total persulfate content of less than 10% by weight, which is mixed with hydrogen peroxide to create a lightening agent for keratin fibers. This composition is designed to provide effective lightening while minimizing hair degradation and ensuring easy application.
The composition achieves effective lightening with improved neutralization of yellow and/or orange tints, while maintaining hair quality and allowing for easy mixing and application. It is also compatible with direct and oxidation dyes, enabling simultaneous bleaching and dyeing.
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Abstract
Description
COMPOSITION FOR LIGHTENING KERATIN FIBERS AND PROCESS FOR LIGHTENING KERATIN FIBERS USING SAID COMPOSITIONTECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to a keratin fiber lightening composition comprising at least one (bi)carbonate, at least one silicate, at least one fatty acid and at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids, and also to a keratin fiber lightening process using this composition.BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] When a person wishes to change hair color, notably when he or she wishes to obtain a lighter color than their original color, it is often necessary to perform preliminary lightening or bleaching of the hair. To do this, lightening or bleaching products are used.
[0003] The lightening of head hair is evaluated by the “tone height”, which characterizes the degree or level of lightening. The notion of “tone” is based on the classification of natural shades, one tone separating each shade from the shade immediately following or preceding it. This definition and the classification of natural shades are well known to hairstyling professionals and are published in the bookSciences des traitements capillaires[The Science of Hair Care] by Charles Zviak, 1988, published by Masson, pages 215 and 278.
[0004] The tone heights range from 1 (black) to 10 (very light blond), one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the figure, the lighter the shade.
[0005] It is known practice to lighten or bleach the hair with lightening or bleaching compositions containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. The role of this oxidizing agent is to degrade the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present and of the pH conditions, leads to more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. Thus, for relatively mild lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is desired, notably when the hair treated is dark, persulfates are usually used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. However, the lightening obtained by the action of such a combination is not always satisfactory, since it produces hair with unattractive yellow and / or orange tints, which complicates subsequent dyeing by limiting it to the production of warm tones. Furthermore, persulfate-based lightening compositions may lead to a deterioration of the fiber quality.
[0006] Moreover, persulfate-based compositions are generally in the form of a pulverulent composition which is mixed with an aqueous oxidizing composition comprising hydrogen peroxide prior to application to the hair. Mixing of the two compositions is thus also not readily possible. This is reflected not only by a relatively long mixing time, but also by difficulties in obtaining a homogeneous mixture, or even difficulties in applying the mixture obtained to the hair. The reason for this is that the mixture may be difficult to spread evenly throughout the head of hair, in particular on curly or frizzy hair, which can lead to undesirable, non-uniform lightening performance.
[0007] In addition, persulfate-based compositions are generally not chemically compatible with the presence of oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes in order to be able to bleach the hair fiber and to dye it in a single step. Thus, when it is desired to simultaneously bleach and dye keratin fibers, a two-step process is generally used, with a first step of bleaching the keratin fibers followed by a second step of dyeing the keratin fibers using a dye composition comprising one or more direct dyes and / or one or more oxidation dyes.
[0008] Thus, there is a real need to develop a composition which affords effective lightening of keratin fibers, notably dark keratin fibers, with better neutralization of the yellow and / or orange tints. Such a composition should also be more respectful of fiber quality, notably by minimizing fiber degradation, and have very good application qualities, notably by being easy to mix with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition before use, the resulting mixture also being easy to apply to keratin fibers. Moreover, such a composition should also be compatible with the presence of direct dyes and / or oxidation dyes so as to obtain good color buildup, intense, natural and chromatic colors and also allow a wider range of colors to be obtained. Finally, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing toward meeting the global challenges. It is thus essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby making it possible to respond to these environmental issues.
[0009] The applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that all or some of these objectives can be achieved by means of the composition according to the present invention.SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0010] According to a first aspect, a subject of the present invention is a composition (A) comprising:- one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates, (bi)carbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from carbonates, bicarbonates and mixtures thereof;- one or more silicates, the silicate(s) being present in composition (A) in a total content of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A);- one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; and- one or more fatty substances different from the compounds D;wherein composition (A) comprises a total content of persulfates of less than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0011] According to a second aspect, a subject of the present invention is a process for lightening keratin fibers, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of composition (A) as defined previously.
[0012] According to a third aspect, a subject of the present invention is a process for lightening keratin fibers, comprising:i) a step of mixing composition (A) as defined previously with a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide; andii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step i).
[0013] According to a fourth aspect, a subject of the present invention is a device with at least two compartments, for lightening keratin fibers, comprising:i) at least a first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined previously; andii) at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide.
[0014] According to a fifth aspect, a subject of the present invention is the use of a composition (A) as defined previously, for lightening keratin fibers.
[0015] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0016] For the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated:
[0017] ▪ the term “keratin fibers” means fibers of human or animal origin, such as head hair, bodily hairs, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibers are preferably human keratin fibers, more preferentially head hair;
[0018] ▪ the term “(bi)carbonate” means a carbonate or a bicarbonate.
[0019] ▪ the term “silicate” means a silicic acid salt.
[0020] ▪ the term “salt” means an addition salt with an organic or mineral acid or base. The addition salts with an acid are notably chosen from addition salts with acids such as hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, tosylic acid, benzenesulfonic acid, phosphoric acid or acetic acid. The addition salts with a base are notably chosen from the addition salts with bases such as the basifying agents described hereinbelow, notably alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0021] ▪ the term “direct dye” means a natural and / or synthetic dye, including in the form of an extract or extracts, other than oxidation dyes. These are colored compounds that will spread superficially on the fiber.They may be ionic or nonionic, i.e. anionic, cationic, neutral or nonionic.
[0022] The terms “at least one” and “one or more” are synonymous and may be used interchangeably.
[0023] The expressions "between... and...", "comprises from ... to...", "formed from ... to..." and "ranging from... to..." should be understood as being inclusive of the limits, unless otherwise specified.
[0024] The terms “lightening” and “bleaching” are synonymous and may be used interchangeably.Composition (A)
[0025] According to a first aspect, a subject of the present invention is a composition (A) as defined previously.
[0026] The Applicant has found, surprisingly, that composition (A) according to the present invention afforded effective keratin fiber lightening with good levels of lightening (strength of lightening obtained) and improved neutralization of yellow and / or orange tints. Moreover, composition (A) according to the invention is more respectful of the quality of the fibers, notably minimizing their degradation. Finally, composition (A) according to the invention has very good application qualities, notably being easy to mix with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide oxidizing composition before use and easy to apply to keratin fibers after mixing with the oxidizing composition.Compounds C
[0027] Composition (A) according to the invention comprises one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates, (bi)carbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof.
[0028] Preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more compounds C chosen from carbonates, bicarbonates and mixtures thereof.
[0029] More preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more compounds C chosen from ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof.Carbonates and / or carbonate-generating systems
[0030] The compound(s) C present in composition (A) may be chosen from carbonates, carbonate-generating systems and mixtures thereof, preferably from carbonates.
[0031] The term “carbonate-generating system” means a system which generates carbonatein situ, for instance carbon dioxide in water or percarbonate in water.
[0032] When they are present in composition (A), the carbonates are preferably chosen from:- alkali metal carbonates;- alkaline-earth metal carbonates;- lanthanide carbonates;- transition metal carbonates;- bismuth carbonate;- cadmium carbonate;- thallium carbonate;- zinc carbonate;- the compounds of formula (N+R1R2R3R4)2CO32-wherein R1, R2, R3and R4represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group;- guanidine carbonate;- mixtures thereof.
[0033] More preferentially, the carbonates are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, caesium carbonate, lithium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, barium carbonate, strontium carbonate, cerium carbonate, lanthanum carbonate, yttrium carbonate, copper(II) carbonate, manganese carbonate, nickel carbonate, silver carbonate, zirconium carbonate, bismuth carbonate, cadmium carbonate, thallium carbonate, zinc carbonate, ammonium carbonate, guanidine carbonate, tetraethylammonium carbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0034] Even more preferentially, the carbonates are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, caesium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, cerium carbonate, manganese carbonate, zinc carbonate, ammonium carbonate, guanidine carbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0035] Most preferentially, the carbonates are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, ammonium carbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0036] In a particularly preferred manner, the carbonate included in composition (A) is ammonium carbonate.
[0037] Bicarbonates and / or bicarbonate-generating systems
[0038] The compound(s) C present in composition (A) are preferably chosen from bicarbonates, bicarbonate-generating systems and mixtures thereof, preferably from bicarbonates.
[0039] The term “bicarbonate-generating system” means a system which generates bicarbonatein situ, for instance carbon dioxide in water or by buffering a carbonate with a mineral or organic acid.
[0040] When they are present in composition (A), the bicarbonates are preferably chosen from:- alkali metal bicarbonates;- alkaline-earth metal bicarbonates;- the compounds of formula N+R1R2R3R4HCO3-wherein R1, R2, R3and R4represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group;- aminoguanidine bicarbonate;- mixtures thereof.
[0041] More preferentially, the bicarbonates are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, lithium bicarbonate, caesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, choline bicarbonate, triethylammonium bicarbonate, aminoguanidine bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
[0042] Even more preferentially, the bicarbonates are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, caesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
[0043] Most preferentially, the bicarbonates are chosen from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0044] In a particularly preferred manner, the bicarbonate included in composition (A) is ammonium bicarbonate.
[0045] The bicarbonates may originate from a natural water, for example spring water from the Vichy basin or from La Roche Posay or Badoit water.
[0046] Preferably, the compound(s) C are present in composition (A) in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0047] When they are present in composition (A), the bicarbonate(s) and / or bicarbonate-generating system(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, and better still ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0048] When they are present in composition (A), the bicarbonate(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, and better still ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0049] When it is present in composition (A), ammonium bicarbonate is preferably present in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, and better still ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).Silicates
[0050] Composition (A) according to the invention also comprises one or silicates, the silicate(s) being present in composition (A) in a total content of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0051] The silicate(s) are preferably water-soluble.
[0052] The term “water-soluble silicate” means a silicate which has a solubility in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of greater than 0.5% by weight, preferably greater than 1% by weight.
[0053] Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from alkali metal silicates, alkaline-earth metal silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates and mixtures thereof.
[0054] More preferentially, the silicate(s) are chosen from sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates and mixtures thereof.
[0055] Even more preferentially, the silicate(s) are chosen from sodium silicates.
[0056] Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from compounds having the INCI name Sodium Silicate (CAS: [1344-09-8]) and / or Sodium Metasilicate (CAS: [6834-92-0]).
[0057] The silicate(s) are preferably present in composition (A) in a total content ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 20% to 55% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 30% to 50% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 35% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0058] Preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more silicates chosen from compounds having the INCI name Sodium Silicate (CAS: [1344-09-8]) and / or Sodium Metasilicate (CAS: [6834-92-0]), in a total content of at least 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 20% to 55% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 30% to 50% by weight and most preferentially ranging from 35% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).Compounds D
[0059] Composition (A) according to the invention also comprises one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0060] The term “fatty acid” means a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, the fatty acids according to the invention comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.
[0061] Preferably, the fatty acids present in composition (A) according to the invention include at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0062] Preferably, the fatty acids include at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular saturated, alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0063] More preferentially, the fatty acids according to the invention are chosen from compounds having the structure R-C(O)OH wherein R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 5 to 23 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 9 to 23 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 11 to 23 carbon atoms, and better still from 13 to 21 carbon atoms.
[0064] For the purposes of the present invention, the fatty acids present in composition (A) are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0065] The fatty acid salts are preferably chosen from addition salts with an organic or mineral base, more preferentially chosen from addition salts with a mineral base. The mineral base is preferably chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from sodium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.
[0066] The fatty acids may be chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty acids.
[0067] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “solid fatty acid” means a fatty acid with a melting point of greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferentially greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105Pa).
[0068] The solid fatty acids used in the present invention are notably chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0069] Particularly preferably, the solid fatty acid(s) are chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0070] More preferably, the solid fatty acid is stearic acid.
[0071] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “liquid fatty acid” means a fatty acid with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105Pa).
[0072] The liquid fatty acid(s) according to the invention may be chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferentially oleic acid.
[0073] Preferably, the compound(s) D are chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty acids, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, most preferentially from stearic acid, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, and better still from stearic acid, sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof, and even better still from sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0074] The compound(s) D are preferably present in composition (A) in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 8% by weight and even more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0075] Preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more compounds D chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, salts thereof, such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0076] More preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more compounds D chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0077] Even more preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more compounds D chosen from stearic acid, sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0078] Better still, composition (A) comprises one or more compounds D chosen from sodium stearate, magnesium stearate and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).Fatty substances different from the compounds D
[0079] Composition (A) also comprises one or more fatty substances different from the compounds D.
[0080] The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0081] Advantageously, the fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0082] Preferably, the fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.
[0083] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance not containing any Si-O bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.
[0084] The fatty substances that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. The term “liquid fatty substance” means a fatty substance having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa). The term “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance having a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).
[0085] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105Pa).
[0086] Preferably, the fatty substance(s) present in composition (A) are chosen from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances and mixtures thereof.
[0087] More preferentially, the fatty substance(s) present in composition (A) are chosen from liquid fatty substances.
[0088] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention are chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid fatty ethers, and mixtures thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate, liquid fatty ethers, such as dicapryl ether, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly.
[0089] It is recalled that the fatty alcohols, esters, acids and ethers more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may include one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0090] As regards the C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, they may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0091] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (INCI name: mineral oil or paraffinum liquidum), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0092] A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.
[0093] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0094] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
[0095] The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0096] The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0097] As regards the liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, other than triglycerides, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0098] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0099] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0100] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0101] Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0102] Mention may notably be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; polyethylene glycol distearates, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, and mixtures thereof.
[0103] Composition (A) may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0104] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
[0105] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen notably from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may include one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0106] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0107] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate esters.
[0108] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters, and of mono- or dioleates, mono- or distearates, mono- or dibehenates, mono- or dioleopalmitates, mono- or dilinoleates, mono- or dilinolenates and mono- or dioleostearates in particular, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose and mixtures thereof.
[0109] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0110] Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a polyol. As examples of liquid monoacid and polyol esters, mention may be made of propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene dicaprate.
[0111] The liquid fatty ethers that may be used in composition (A) according to the present invention may be chosen from synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms. An example of a liquid fatty ether that may be used in the present invention is dicapryl ether.
[0112] The solid fatty substances according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.
[0113] The solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
[0114] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0115] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0116] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0117] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
[0118] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from the esters resulting from C9-C26 fatty carboxylic acid and / or from C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
[0119] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
[0120] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0121] Mention may notably be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0122] Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and C9-C26 alkyl stearates, notably myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
[0123] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.
[0124] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0125] Mention may be made notably of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
[0126] Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.
[0127] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L Polyethylene.
[0128] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
[0129] The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.
[0130] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
[0131] It is also possible to use microwaxes in composition (A); mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
[0132] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0133] The ceramides or ceramide analogs, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in composition (A), are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
[0134] The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), wherein:- R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;- R2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, wherein n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;- R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 α-hydroxy acid.
[0135] The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom; and R3 denotes a saturated linear C15 group.
[0136] Preferentially, ceramides are used for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.
[0137] Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon-based radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.
[0138] As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.
[0139] The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0140] The fatty substance(s) other than the compounds (D) are preferably present in composition (A) in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight and even more preferentially ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0141] Preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more fatty substances other than the compounds D, chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0142] More preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more fatty substances different from the compounds D chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly, liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate, liquid fatty ethers such as dicapryl ether, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).Associative polymers
[0143] Composition (A) according to the invention may also comprise one or more associative polymers.
[0144] Preferably, composition (A) according to the invention also comprises one or more associative polymers.
[0145] It is recalled that “associative polymers” are polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0146] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
[0147] The term “hydrophobic group” means a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0148] Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group originates from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
[0149] The associative polymers may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.
[0150] Among the anionic associative polymers, mention may be made of:
[0151] - (a) those including at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit is constituted by an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, even more particularly by a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.
[0152] Among these anionic associative polymers, those that are particularly preferred according to the invention are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or of methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether, and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
[0153] Among the latter polymers, those most particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth-10), notably those sold by the company Ciba under the names Salcare SC 80® and Salcare SC 90®, which are aqueous 30% emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).
[0154] - (b) those including i) at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the type such as a (C10-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid.
[0155] (C10-C30)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids that are useful in the invention comprise, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
[0156] Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to patents US 3 915 921 and US 4 509 949.
[0157] Among the anionic associative polymers of this type, use will be made more particularly of those formed from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or alternatively those formed from 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described previously.
[0158] Among said polymers above, the ones most particularly preferred according to the present invention are the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1®, Pemulen TR2®, Carbopol 1382®, the product sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade name Carbopol ETD 2020 Polymer® (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Coatex SX®, and even more preferentially Carbopol ETD 2020 Polymer®.
[0159] Mention may also be made of the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP.
[0160] - (c) maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the product (maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name Performa V 1608® by the company Newphase Technologies.
[0161] - (d) acrylic terpolymers comprising:i) approximately 20% to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A],ii) approximately 20% to 80% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated non-surfactant monomer other than [A],iii) approximately 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate,such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109 and more particularly the terpolymer described in Example 3, namely a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / behenyl alcohol dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated (40 OE) terpolymer, as an aqueous 25% dispersion.
[0162] - (e) copolymers including, among their monomers, an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.
[0163] Preferentially, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C1-C4 alcohol.
[0164] By way of example of compounds of this type, mention may be made of Aculyn 22® sold by the company Röhm and Haas, which is an oxyalkylenated methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, and also Aculyn 88®, also sold by the company Röhm and Haas, or Aculyn 28® sold by the company Röhm and Haas, which is an oxyalkylenated methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), and also Novethix L-10 Polymer® sold by Lubrizol.
[0165] - (f) amphiphilic polymers including at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part. These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.
[0166] The ethylenically unsaturated monomers bearing a sulfonic group are notably chosen from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(C1-C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof.
[0167] More preferentially, use will be made of (meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for instance acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof.
[0168] Use will more particularly be made of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof.
[0169] The polymers of this family may be chosen notably from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154 (which form an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, β-substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0170] The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.
[0171] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not including a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, β-substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0172] These copolymers are notably described in patent application EP-A 750 899, patent US 5 089 578 and in the following publications from Yotaro Morishima:- Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures,Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336;- Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering,Macromolecules, Vol. 33, No. 10, (2000), 3694-3704;- Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to an polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior -Langmuir, Vol. 16, No. 12, (2000) 5324-5332;- Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221.
[0173] Among these polymers, mention may be made of:- crosslinked or noncrosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers including from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylamide units or of (C8-C16)alkyl (meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A 750 899;- terpolymers including from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C6-C18)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US-5 089 578.
[0174] Mention may also be made of copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate, and also crosslinked and noncrosslinked copolymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles mentioned above.
[0175] Among the anionic associative polymers according to the invention, preference is given to polymers including i) at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the type such as a (C10-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid (family b)), and copolymers including among their monomers an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol (family e)).
[0176] Among the cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of:
[0177] (a) cationic associative polyurethanes;
[0178] (b) the compound sold by the company Noveon under the name Aqua CC and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.
[0179] Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer is the product of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:a di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl) methacrylate,one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid,a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 mol of ethylene oxide units),a 30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether,a hydroxy(C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, andan ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
[0180] (c) quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B® (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Aqualon, and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Croda and the product Softcat SL 100® sold by the company Aqualon.
[0181] (d) cationic polyvinyllactam polymers.
[0182] Such polymers are described, for example, in patent application WO-00 / 68282.
[0183] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, use is notably made of vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymers.
[0184] The amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those including at least one noncyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, preference is given to those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 1.5 to 15 mol% and even more particularly 1.5 to 6 mol% of fatty-chain monomer relative to the total number of moles of monomers.
[0185] Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98 / 44012.
[0186] Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, preference is given to acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.
[0187] The nonionic associative polymers that may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from:
[0188] (a) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers, of which examples that may be mentioned include:- the products Antaron V216® or Ganex V216® (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer), sold by the company ISP;- the products Antaron V220® or Ganex V220® (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer), sold by the company ISP;
[0189] (b) copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208®. Or the copolymer with the INCI name “Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer”, such as the product Novethix L-10 polymer from Lubrizol.
[0190] (c) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers including at least one fatty chain, for instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
[0191] (d) polyurethane polyethers including in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences;
[0192] (e) polymers with an aminoplast ether backbone containing at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix® compounds sold by the company Sud-Chemie;
[0193] (f) celluloses or derivatives thereof, modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof wherein the alkyl groups are of C8-22, and in particular:* nonionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the products Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 (C16 alkyl) sold by the company Aqualon;* nonionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the product Amercell HM-1500 sold by the company Amerchol;* nonionic alkylcelluloses, such as the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel;
[0194] (g) associative guar derivatives, for instance hydroxypropyl guars modified with a fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (modified with a C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti; the product Miracare XC 95-3 (modified with a C14 alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified with a C20 alkyl chain) sold by Rhodia Chimie.
[0195] Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers include at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being side chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more side chains to be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may include a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
[0196] The polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer bearing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or starburst polymers.
[0197] The fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylenated chain including from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. The nonionic polyurethane polyethers include a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.
[0198] By extension, also included among the fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers are those wherein the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
[0199] As examples of nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, use may also be made of Rheolate 205® bearing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®.
[0200] Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210® containing a C12-C14alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212® containing a C18alkyl chain, from Akzo.
[0201] The product DW 1206B®from Röhm & Haas containing a C20alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.
[0202] Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, notably in water or in an aqueous / alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox. Use may also be made of the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Röhm & Haas.
[0203] The polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen – Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).
[0204] It is even more particularly preferred to use a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
[0205] Such polyurethane polyethers are sold notably by the company Röhm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
[0206] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from anionic associative polymers.
[0207] More preferentially, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers.
[0208] Even more preferentially, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from polymers including i) at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the type such as a (C10-C30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid, the copolymers including among their monomers an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0209] When they are present in composition (A), the associative polymer(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0210] Preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more associative polymers chosen from anionic associative polymers, preferably from acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers, in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).Non-associative polysaccharides
[0211] Composition (A) according to the invention may also comprise one or more non-associative polysaccharides, which are thus different from the above associative polymers.
[0212] Preferably, composition (A) according to the invention also comprises one or more non-associative polysaccharides, which are thus different from the above associative polymers.
[0213] In the present invention, “polysaccharide” is understood to mean a polymer constituted of sugar units. “Sugar unit” is understood to mean an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which includes at least 4 carbon atoms. The sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.
[0214] The sugar units that may be included in the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
[0215] Non-associative polysaccharides that may notably be mentioned include the following polymers, alone or as a mixture:
[0216] a) tree or shrub exudates, including:- acacia gum (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);- karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);
[0217] b) gums derived from algae, including:- agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);- alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and of glucuronic acid);- carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and of anhydrogalactose sulfate);
[0218] c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including:- guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);- konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);
[0219] d) microbial gums, including:- xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);- gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);
[0220] e) polymers extracted from plants, including:- celluloses (glucose polymers);- starches (glucose polymers) and- inulin.
[0221] These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. As physical treatment, mention may in particular be made of a heat treatment. As chemical treatments, mention may be made of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may notably be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.
[0222] In particular, the guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses may be modified / treated.
[0223] The guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, examples that may be mentioned include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups. The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.
[0224] Such guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
[0225] The botanical origin of the starches that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, oat starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, pea starch and tapioca starch. Use may also be made of the hydrolyzates of the starches mentioned above. The starch is preferably derived from potato.
[0226] Use will preferentially be made of starch phosphates, notably distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), or Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).
[0227] According to the invention, amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably, they are bonded to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic type. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
[0228] The nonassociative polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention may be cellulose-based polymers.
[0229] According to the invention, the term “cellulose-based polymer” refers to any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via β-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.
[0230] Cellulose-based polymers are also known as celluloses.
[0231] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.
[0232] Among these cellulose-based polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.
[0233] Among the cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic / mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ether esters, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
[0234] Among the cellulose ethers that may be mentioned are (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Ashland) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
[0235] Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. Examples that may be mentioned include carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.
[0236] Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and notably described in patent US 4 131 576, such as (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat® L 200 and Celquat® H 100 by the company National Starch.
[0237] Preferably, the nonassociative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from celluloses, guar gums, gellan gums, starches and mixtures thereof, preferably from celluloses, gellan gums and mixtures thereof.
[0238] More preferably, the nonassociative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from gellan gums, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, cellulose ether esters, and mixtures thereof.
[0239] Even more preferably, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from gellan gums, (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl-(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, preferably gellan gums, hydroxyethylcelluloses and mixtures thereof.
[0240] When they are present in composition (A), the nonassociative polysaccharide(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0241] Preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more nonassociative polysaccharides chosen from gellan gums, cellulose polymers, and mixtures thereof, in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0242] More preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more nonassociative polysaccharides chosen from gellan gums, cellulose ethers, and mixtures thereof, in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and most preferentially ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).Surfactants
[0243] Composition (A) according to the present invention may also comprise one or more surfactants other than the compounds D.
[0244] Preferably, composition (A) according to the invention also comprises one or more surfactants other than the compounds D.
[0245] These surfactants may preferably be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0246] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups: CO2H, CO2-, SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, PO32-, H2PO2, HPO2-, PO22-, POH and PO-.
[0247] As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in composition (A) according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-(C1-C4)alkyl-N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise mentioned) generally including from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.
[0248] The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
[0249] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
[0250] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may notably be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0251] Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
[0252] The anionic surfactants that may be present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. anionic surfactants without a sulfate function.
[0253] As regards the mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those including 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.
[0254] Use may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, for instance lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 OE) sold, for example, under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA from Kao.
[0255] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of sulfated surfactants such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and acylglutamates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, more preferentially alkyl sulfates and C12-C20 fatty acid salts.
[0256] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in composition (A) according to the invention are preferably non-silicone surfactants and may notably be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0257] Mention may in particular be made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.
[0258] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective structures (III) and (IV) below:
[0259] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X-(III)formula (III) wherein:- Rarepresents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH which is preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut kernel oil; preferably, Rarepresents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;- Rbrepresents a β-hydroxyethyl group;- Rcrepresents a carboxymethyl group;
[0260] - M+represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and- X-represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylaryl- sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+and X-are absent;
[0261] Ra’-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B’) (IV)formula (IV) wherein:- B represents the group -CH2CH2OX’;- B’ represents the group -(CH2)zY’, with z = 1 or 2;- X’ represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;- Y’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’;- Z’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;- Ra’ represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; preferably, Ra’ is an alkyl group, notably a C17group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17group.
[0262] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5thedition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0263] By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol®C2M Concentrate.
[0264] Use may also be made of compounds of formula (V):
[0265] Ra’’-NHCH(Y’’)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re) (V)formula (V) wherein:- Y’’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’’;- Rdand Re, independently of each other, represent a C1to C4alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;- Z’’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;- Ra”represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra”-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; and- n and n’ denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
[0266] Among the compounds of formula (V), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
[0267] These compounds may be used alone or as mixtures.
[0268] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is advantageously made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, such as cocoyl betaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, (C8-C20)alkylamphoacetates, (C8-C20)alkylamphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; and preferably (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof.
[0269] Preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, and mixtures thereof.
[0270] The nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used in composition (A) of the present invention are notably described, for example, in the “Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178.
[0271] Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:
[0272] - oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols;
[0273] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C40alcohols, preferably including one or two fatty chains;- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8to C30fatty acid amides;- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30fatty acids and of polyethylene glycols;- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30fatty acids and of glycerol;- fatty acid esters of sucrose;- preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30fatty acids and of sorbitol;- C8-C30fatty acid esters of sorbitan;- polyoxyethylenated C8-C30fatty acid esters of sorbitan;- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30fatty acids and of glycerol;- (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides, (C8-C30)alkenyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucoside esters;- saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils;- condensates of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide;-N-(C8-C30)alkylglucamine andN-(C8-C30)acylmethylglucamine derivatives;- amine oxides.
[0274] They are notably chosen from alcohols, α-diols and (C1-C20)alkylphenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and bearing at least one fatty chain including, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 200, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 30.
[0275] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, oxyethylenated plant oils, N-(C6-C24alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0276] The C8-C30and preferably C12-C22fatty acid esters (notably monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan may be chosen from:
[0277] sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate.
[0278] The esters (notably monoesters, diesters, triesters) of C8-C30fatty acids and of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan are preferably chosen from C8-C30fatty acid ester(s) of oxyethylenated sorbitan containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0279] Preferentially, the C8-C30fatty acid ester(s) of oxyethylenated sorbitan are chosen from esters of C12-C18fatty acids and of oxyethylenated sorbitan, in particular from oxyethylenated esters of lauric acid, of myristic acid, of cetylic acid and of stearic acid and of sorbitan.
[0280] Preferably, the C8-C30fatty acid ester(s) of oxyethylenated sorbitan are chosen from oxyethylenated (4 OE) sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate-21), oxyethylenated (20 OE) sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate-20), oxyethylenated (20 OE) sorbitan monopalmitate (Polysorbate-40), oxyethylenated (20 OE) sorbitan monostearate (Polysorbate-60), oxyethylenated (4 OE) sorbitan monostearate (Polysorbate-61), oxyethylenated (20 OE) sorbitan monooleate (Polysorbate-80), oxyethylenated (5 OE) sorbitan monooleate (Polysorbate-81), oxyethylenated (20 OE) sorbitan tristearate (Polysorbate-65), oxyethylenated (20 OE) sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate-85).
[0281] The nonionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24alkyl)polyglycosides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acid esters of glycerol, oxyethylated C8-C30fatty acid esters of sorbitan, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from ethoxylated C8-C24fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24alkyl)polyglycosides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30fatty acid esters of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
[0282] More preferentially, the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acids and of glycerol.
[0283] The cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in composition (A) according to the invention are generally chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0284] The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain. Among the fatty amines that may be used according to the invention, mention may for example be made of stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and distearylamine.
[0285] As examples of quaternary ammonium salts, mention may notably be made of:
[0286] - those corresponding to general formula(VI)below: (VI)wherein the groups R8to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8to R11including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms notably such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
[0287] The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30hydroxyalkyl groups;X-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates and (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
[0288] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI), preference is given, firstly, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides wherein the alkyl group includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or, secondly, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or also, finally, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk;
[0289] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (VII) below: (VII)whereinR12represents an alkenyl or alkyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R13represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,R14represents a C1-C4alkyl group,R15represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4alkyl group, andX-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
[0290] Preferably,R12andR13denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives,R14denotes a methyl group andR15denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
[0291] - quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (VIII) below: (VIII)whereinR16denotes an alkyl group including from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms;R17is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a,R18,R19,R20andR21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
[0292] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75);
[0293] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, for instance those of formula(IX)below: (IX)wherein: R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from: the group –C(O)R26, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27, or a hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from: the group –C(O)R28, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based groups R29, or a hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6; r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1; r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X- is an organic or inorganic simple or complex anion, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0, R25 denotes R29.
[0294] The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
[0295] Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
[0296] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
[0297] When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and may have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0298] When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0299] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
[0300] Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
[0301] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
[0302] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
[0303] The anion X-is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1-C4)alkyl sulfate or a (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function.
[0304] The anion X-is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
[0305] Use is made more particularly, in composition (A) according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) wherein: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the group –C(O)R26, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups, or a hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the group –C(O)R28, or a hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
[0306] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.
[0307] Among the compounds of formula (XIII), examples that may be mentioned include salts, notably the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
[0308] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably a methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
[0309] Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
[0310] Composition (A) according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
[0311] Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
[0312] Use may also be made of the behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold, for example, by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
[0313] Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
[0314] Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0315] Preferably, the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D are chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
[0316] More preferably, the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D are chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl sulfates, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
[0317] Even more preferably, the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D are chosen from alkyl sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of glycerol such as glyceryl stearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0318] When composition (A) comprises one or more surfactants, the total surfactant content included in composition (A) is preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, most preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0319] When composition (A) comprises one or more nonionic and / or anionic surfactants, the total content of nonionic and / or anionic surfactants in composition (A) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, most preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).Sequestrants
[0320] Composition (A) according to the invention may also comprise one or more sequestrants (or chelating agents).
[0321] Preferably, composition (A) according to the invention comprises one or more sequestrants.
[0322] The definition of a “sequestrant” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds that are capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex wherein a compound (the sequestrant or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring including the metal ion).
[0323] A sequestrant (or chelating agent) generally comprises at least two electron-donating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
[0324] In the context of the present invention, the sequestrant(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof.
[0325] The salts are notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.
[0326] The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of sequestrants based on carboxylic acids: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N’-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N’-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N’-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N’-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N’-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N’-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryliminodiacetic acid (as described in EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N-carboxymethyl-N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102), beta-alanine-N,N’-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N’-diacetic acid, and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509 382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutanetricarboxylic acid such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from AkzoNobel.
[0327] The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acid: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.
[0328] The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.
[0329] According to one embodiment, the sequestrant(s) that are useful according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestrants, i.e. sequestrants which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.
[0330] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) used in composition (A) according to the invention are preferably chosen from:
[0331] - inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;
[0332] - organic phosphorus-based derivatives, for instance organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and / or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, such as tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate and mixtures thereof.
[0333] Preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.
[0334] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).
[0335] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from etidronic acid (also known as 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid) and / or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
[0336] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds.
[0337] Particularly preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.
[0338] According to the present invention, the sequestrants are preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0339] According to the present invention, the sequestrants are more preferentially chosen from diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0340] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts and notably the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.
[0341] When composition (A) comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably ranges from 0.001% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).Additional basifying agents
[0342] Composition (A) may also comprise one or more additional basifying agents other than the (bi)carbonates and silicates as defined previously.
[0343] The additional basifying agent(s) may be mineral or organic. They may be chosen from i) aqueous ammonia, ii) alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine and derivatives thereof, iii) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, iv) mineral or organic hydroxides, v) amino acids, preferably basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citrulline and histidine, and vi) the compounds of formula (II) below: wherein:- W is a divalent (C1-C8)alkylene group, preferably propylene optionally substituted notably with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4alkyl radical;- Ra, Rb, Rcand Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4alkyl or C1-C4(poly)hydroxyalkyl radical;vii) and mixtures thereof.
[0344] The mineral or organic hydroxides are preferably chosen from i) alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, ii) alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, iii) transition metal hydroxides, such as hydroxides of metals from groups III, IV, V and VI, iv) hydroxides of lanthanides or of actinides.
[0345] When they are present in composition (A), the additional basifying agent(s) preferably represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.005% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0346] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (A) according to the invention does not comprise any additional basifying agent chosen from aqueous ammonia and / or alkanolamines.Persulfates
[0347] Composition (A) comprises a total persulfate content of less than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0348] Preferably, composition (A) comprises a total persulfate content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0349] More preferably, composition (A) is free of persulfates.Direct dyes
[0350] Composition (A) may also comprise one or more direct dyes. The direct dyes may be synthetic or natural.
[0351] The synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from the dyes conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and / or nonaromatic dyes that are commonly used, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, xanthene, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0352] Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes, mention may be made of: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, 1,4-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(β-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, 1-amino-3-methyl-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene, 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene, 1,2-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino-5-nitrobenzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene, 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene, 1-methoxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene, 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene, 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-β-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene, 1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-hydroxy-6-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-3-nitrobenzene, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1-hydroxy-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.
[0353] Among the azo direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.
[0354] Among the hydrazono direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Yellow 87.
[0355] Among the nitroaryl direct dyes, mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol,N,N’-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitrophenylenediamine.
[0356] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50; tetrabromophenol blue.
[0357] Among the xanthene dyes that may be mentioned are: Acid Red 92; Acid Red 52.
[0358] Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and also the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5-β-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, 1,4-bis(β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.
[0359] Among the azine direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.
[0360] Among the indoamine direct dyes, mention may be made of: 2-β-hydroxyethlyamino-5-[bis(β-4’-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2’-methoxy-4’-amino)anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2’-chloro-4’-hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3’-chloro-4’-methylamino)phenylureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-[4’-N-(ethylcarbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinoneimine.
[0361] The natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllines, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.
[0362] Among the ortho-diphenols that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin C1, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-dihydroxy-2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, alizarin, wedelolactone and natural extracts containing same.
[0363] The direct dye(s) may be present in composition (A) in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0364] Preferably, composition (A) comprises a total content of coloring agents of less than 0.1% by weight, preferably of less than 0.01% by weight, more preferentially of less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0365] According to a more preferred embodiment, composition (A) is free of coloring agents.
[0366] The term “coloring agent” means an oxidation dye, a direct dye or a pigment.
[0367] The term “oxidation dye” means an oxidation dye precursor chosen from oxidation bases and couplers. Oxidation bases and couplers are colorless or sparingly colored compounds, which, via a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a colored species.Organic solvents
[0368] Composition (A) according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.
[0369] Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0370] When composition (A) comprises one or more organic solvents, the total content of organic solvents preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0371] Preferably, composition (A) according to the invention is anhydrous. The term “anhydrous composition” means a composition comprising less than 2% by weight of water, better still less than 1% by weight of water, even better still less than 0.75% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0372] In particular, composition (A) does not comprise any water added during its preparation, the water that may be present possibly being provided by the starting materials used during its preparation.Carboxylic acids
[0373] Composition (A) may also comprise any one or more carboxylic acids of formula (I) below or one or more salts thereof: wherein:- U represents a monovalent group when n has the value 0 or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or noncyclic and aromatic or nonaromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms and / or optionally substituted, notably with one or more hydroxyl groups; preferably, U represents a monovalent (C1-C6)alkyl group or a polyvalent (C1-C6)alkylene group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl and / or amino groups;- n represents an integer between 0 and 10 inclusive; preferably, n is between 0 and 5, such as between 0 and 2.
[0374] The carboxylic acids of formula (I) that are useful according to the invention are preferably chosen from α-hydroxy acids.
[0375] The carboxylic acids of formula (I) are preferably chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from citric acid or a salt thereof.
[0376] The salts of the carboxylic acids of formula (I) may be salts of organic or mineral bases or of basifying agents as defined previously.
[0377] When they are present in composition (A), the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are present in composition (A) preferably in a total weight content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).Amino acids
[0378] Composition (A) may also comprise one or more amino acids of formula (I1) below and / or one or more salts thereof: formula (I1) wherein:▪ p is an integer equal to 1 or 2;▪ when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated 5- to 8-membered, preferably 5-membered, heterocycle, this ring possibly being optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from hydroxyl or (C1-C4)alkyl;▪ when p = 2, R represents:- a hydrogen atom; or- a (C1-C12)alkyl group, preferably a (C1-C4)alkyl group, interrupted with at least one heteroatom or group chosen from –S–, –NH– or –C(NH)– and / or substituted with at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, amino or –NH–C(NH)–NH2.
[0379] The amino acids of formula (I1) may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL configuration, preferably of L configuration.
[0380] As examples according to the present invention of amino acids of formula (I1) in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.
[0381] Preferably, the amino acid(s) of formula (I1) included in composition (A) are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine and lysine, and mixtures thereof.
[0382] More preferentially, the amino acid(s) of formula (I1) included in composition (A) are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine and serine, and mixtures thereof.
[0383] Even more preferentially, the amino acid included in composition (A) is glycine.
[0384] When they are present in composition (A), the amino acid(s) of formula (I1) are preferably present in composition (A) in a total weight content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).Additives
[0385] Composition (A) according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additives, other than the compounds of the invention, and among which mention may be made of polymers, other than associative polymers and nonassociative polysaccharides, mineral thickeners, antidandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and / or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances, and preserving agents.
[0386] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with composition (A) according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
[0387] The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0388] According to one embodiment, composition (A) just described does not comprise any hydrogen peroxide. This composition (A) is intended to be mixed, at the time of use, with a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide.
[0389] As a variant, composition (A) according to the invention may comprise hydrogen peroxide. When it comprises hydrogen peroxide, composition (A) is a ready-to-use composition (A’).
[0390] The pH of the ready-to-use composition (A’) ranges from 8 to 13, preferably from 9 to 12.Process for lightening keratin fibers
[0391] The present invention also relates to a process for lightening keratin fibers, comprising the application to keratin fibers of composition (A) as defined previously.
[0392] Preferably, the composition applied to the keratin fibers is a composition (A’) resulting from the mixing, prior to use, of composition (A) according to the invention which does not comprise any hydrogen peroxide with a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide.
[0393] According to a preferred embodiment, the process for lightening keratin fibers according to the invention comprises:i) a step of mixing composition (A) as defined previously, which does not comprise any hydrogen peroxide, with a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide, andii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers the composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step i).
[0394] The composition resulting from the mixture in step i) is called the ready-to-use composition (A’).
[0395] This ready-to-use composition (A’) may comprise one or more of the ingredients described previously. This ready-to-use composition (A’) may also comprise water, notably originating from composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide.
[0396] The ready-to-use composition (A’) may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibers. On conclusion of the treatment, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.
[0397] The mixing step i) is preferably performed at the time of use, i.e. just before applying to the keratin fibers the composition resulting from the mixing.
[0398] Preferably, compositions (A) and (B) are mixed in an A / B weight ratio ranging from 0.1 to 2, preferably ranging from 0.3 to 1.5, more preferentially ranging from 0.5 to 1.
[0399] Composition (B) comprises hydrogen peroxide in a content preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
[0400] Composition (B) is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 50% by weight of water.
[0401] It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed previously, these solvents more particularly representing, when they are present, from 0.1% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).
[0402] Composition (B) also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0403] Composition (B) preferably comprises one or more fatty substances such as those described previously, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.
[0404] Composition (B) may also comprise surfactants and thickening polymers.
[0405] Usually, the pH of composition (B), when it is aqueous, is less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5, preferentially between 1.5 and 4.5.
[0406] According to a particular embodiment, the process according to the invention uses one or more direct dyes as defined previously. According to this particular embodiment, the direct dye(s) may be included in composition (A) or in a separate composition (C). In the case where the direct dye(s) are included in composition (A), the composition applied to the keratin fibers is a composition (A’) resulting from the mixing, prior to use, of composition (A) according to the invention which does not comprise any hydrogen peroxide with composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide.
[0407] In the case where the direct dye(s) are included in a separate composition (C), the composition applied to the keratin fibers is a composition (A’) resulting from the mixing, prior to use, of composition (A) according to the invention which does not comprise any hydrogen peroxide with composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide and with composition (C).Kit
[0408] Another subject of the invention is a device containing at least two compartments, for lightening keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined previously, and at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide as defined previously.
[0409] According to a particular embodiment, the device according to the invention includes one or more direct dyes as defined previously, the direct dye(s) being included in composition (A) as defined previously or in a separate composition (C) which is enclosed in a third compartment.
[0410] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by suitable application means, which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges.
[0411] The device mentioned above may also be equipped with a means for dispensing the desired mixture onto the hair, for instance the devices described in patent FR 2586913.Use
[0412] Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a composition (A) as defined previously, for lightening keratin fibers.Examples
[0413] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
[0414] In the examples that follow, unless otherwise indicated, all the amounts are shown as mass percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0415] Compositions A1 to A7 below were prepared. In the tables that follow, the ingredients are indicated by their INCI name:
[0416] INGREDIENTSA1(Invention)A2(Invention)A3(Invention)A4(Invention)Ammonium bicarbonate50505050Mineral oil / paraffinum liquidum2---Sodium silicate41414038.5Sodium stearate3.6---Disodium EDTA1---Glycine---0.5Hydroxyethylcellulose0.71.4Glyceryl stearate--11Dicaprylyl ether-2--Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer0.7---Gellan gum--1.41.4Sodium lauryl sulfate11--Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate--33Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate(aqueous solution at 47.5% by weight sold by the company Nouryon under the reference Dissolvine GL-47-S)-1(0.475 AM)1(0.475 AM)1(0.475 AM)Magnesium stearate-3.63.63.6Citric acid---1
[0417] AM: Active Material
[0418] INGREDIENTSA5 (Comparative)A6(Invention)A7(Comparative)Ammonium bicarbonate505050Mineral oil / paraffinum liquidum222Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer0.70.70.7Hydroxyethylcellulose0.70.70.7Sodium silicate102020Sodium lauryl sulfate111Disodium EDTA111Sodium stearate3.63.6-Glyceryl stearate citrate--3.6Inert fillerqs 100qs 100qs 100Application protocol
[0419] At the time of use, compositions A5 to A7 were respectively mixed with the oxidizing agent 30-volumes H2O2Blond Studio Oil-Developer from L'Oréal Professionnel (Composition “O”) in a 1:2 weight ratio.
[0420] Composition A6 according to the invention mixes very rapidly with the oxidizing composition O to give a mixture A6+O in the form of a homogeneous cream.
[0421] Comparative composition A5 is a sandy powder, and the mixing time of composition A5 with the oxidizing composition O is much longer, as the mixing is difficult.
[0422] Each of the mixtures was then applied to locks of natural chestnut-brown hair (tone height 4) at a rate of 5 g of mixture / g of hair.The mixture A6+O is easier to apply than the mixture A5+O. After leaving the locks for 50 min on a hotplate at 27°C, they were washed with Garnier Ultra Doux Camomille shampoo, rinsed, and then oven-dried at 60°C.
[0423] Colorimetric measurements were then performed with a Minolta CM3600D spectrophotometer, with the illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included, in the CIE Lab system.
[0424] In the Lab system, L* represents the lightness, a* represents the red / green axis and b* represents the yellow / blue axis.
[0425] The latter allows quantification of the unesthetic yellow / orange tints: the higher the b* value, the more yellow the color, the lower the b* value, the more neutralized the color.Results
[0426] b*A5+O(Comparative)26.14A6+O(Invention)23.02A7+O(Comparative)26.67
[0427] The mixture A6+O according to the invention leads to a lower b* value than that obtained with the comparative mixtures A5+O and A7+O.
[0428] Composition A6 according to the invention leads to better neutralization of the yellow and / or orange tints on the hair.
Claims
A composition (A) comprising:- one or more compounds C chosen from (bi)carbonates, (bi)carbonate-generating systems, and mixtures thereof, preferably from carbonates, bicarbonates and mixtures thereof;- one or more silicates, the silicate(s) being present in composition (A) in a total content of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A);- one or more compounds D chosen from fatty acids comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; and- one or more fatty substances different from the compounds D;wherein composition (A) comprises a total content of persulfates of less than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).The composition (A) as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the compound(s) C are chosen from bicarbonates, bicarbonate-generating systems and mixtures thereof, preferably from bicarbonates.The composition (A) as claimed in either of the preceding claims, wherein the bicarbonates are chosen from:- alkali metal bicarbonates;- alkaline-earth metal bicarbonates;- the compounds of formula N+R1R2R3R4HCO3-wherein R1, R2, R3and R4represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group;- aminoguanidine bicarbonate;- mixtures thereof;preferably from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, lithium bicarbonate, caesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, choline bicarbonate, triethylammonium bicarbonate, aminoguanidine bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, caesium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof; most preferentially, the bicarbonate is ammonium bicarbonate.The composition (A) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) C are present in composition (A) in a total content ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, most preferably ranging from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).The composition (A) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicate(s) are chosen from alkali metal silicates, alkaline-earth metal silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates, and mixtures thereof, preferably from sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from sodium silicates, even more preferentially from the compounds having the INCI name Sodium Silicate and / or Sodium Metasilicate.The composition (A) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicate(s) are present in composition (A) in a total content ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 55% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 30% to 50% by weight and most preferentially ranging from 35% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).The composition (A) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acids are chosen from compounds having the structure R-C(O)OH wherein R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 5 to 23 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 9 to 23 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 11 to 23 carbon atoms, and better still from 13 to 21 carbon atoms.The composition (A) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) D are chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty acids, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, most preferentially from stearic acid, salts thereof such as addition salts with a mineral base, and mixtures thereof, and better still from stearic acid, sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof, and even better still from sodium stearate, magnesium stearate, and mixtures thereof.The composition (A) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compounds D are present in composition (A) in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 8% by weight and more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).The composition (A) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty substance(s) other than the compounds D are chosen from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances and mixtures thereof, preferably from liquid fatty substances, more preferentially from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid fatty ethers, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate or propylene glycol dicaprate, liquid fatty ethers, such as dicapryl ether, and mixtures thereof, most preferentially from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly.The composition (A) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty substance(s) other than the compounds D are present in composition (A) in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight and more preferentially ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).The composition (A) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein composition (A) also comprises one or more associative polymers, preferably chosen from anionic associative polymers, more preferentially from acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers, even more preferentially from polymers including i) at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the type such as a (C10-C30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid, the copolymers including among their monomers an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof.The composition (A) as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the associative polymer(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).The composition (A) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein composition (A) also comprises one or more nonassociative polysaccharides, preferably chosen from the following polymers, alone or as a mixture, these polymers being able to be modified by physical or chemical means:a) tree or shrub exudates, including:- acacia gum (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);- karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);b) gums derived from algae, including:- agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);- alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and of glucuronic acid);- carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and of anhydrogalactose sulfate);c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including:- guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);- konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);d) microbial gums, including:- xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);- gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);e) polymers extracted from plants, including:- celluloses (glucose polymers);- starches (glucose polymers) and- inulin;more preferentially from celluloses, guar gums, gellan gums, starches, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from celluloses, gellan gums, and mixtures thereof, most preferentially from gellan gums, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, cellulose ether esters, and mixtures thereof, better still from gellan gums, cellulose ethers, and mixtures thereof, and even better still from gellan gums, (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl-(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, preferably from gellan gums, hydroxyethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.The composition (A) as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the nonassociative polysaccharide(s) are present in composition (A) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).The composition (A) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein composition (A) also comprises one or more surfactants other than the compounds D, the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D being chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably from ethoxylated C8-C24fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl sulfates, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8to C30fatty acid esters of glycerol, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from alkyl sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8to C30fatty acid esters of glycerol such as glyceryl stearate, and mixtures thereof.The composition (A) as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the surfactant(s) other than the compounds D are present in composition (A) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and even more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).The composition (A) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein composition (A) comprises a total persulfate content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A), and better still, composition (A) is free of persulfates.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein composition (A) does not comprise any hydrogen peroxide.The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 18, wherein composition (A) comprises hydrogen peroxide.A process for lightening keratin fibers, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 20.A process for lightening keratin fibers, comprising:i) a step of mixing composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19 with a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide; andii) a step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step i).A device containing at least two compartments, for lightening keratin fibers, comprising:i) at least a first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19; andii) at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide.Use of a composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 20, for lightening keratin fibers.
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