Compositions with inorganic UV filters and a nitrogen compound

By integrating guanine, an insoluble nitrogen compound, with inorganic UV filters in cosmetic compositions, the challenges of achieving high SPF without whitening are addressed, resulting in effective sun protection with enhanced sensoriality and environmental sustainability.

WO2025132595A1PCT designated stage expired Publication Date: 2025-06-26LVMH RECH
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Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/EP2024/087118
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-12-20
Filing Date
2024-12-18
Publication Date
2025-06-26

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions with inorganic UV filters, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, often cause whitening effects, making it difficult to achieve high SPF without a visible white layer, especially in makeup products and for darker skin tones.

Method used

Incorporating a nitrogen compound like guanine, which is insoluble and has a lower refractive index than traditional inorganic UV filters, to enhance the SPF boosting effect while reducing the content of inorganic UV filters and minimizing whitening effects.

Benefits of technology

The use of guanine in combination with inorganic UV filters provides effective sun protection with improved SPF without the whitening effect, maintaining acceptable coverage and sensoriality, and is also environmentally friendly due to its biodgradability.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the skin and / or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least (i) a nitrogen-containing compound of formula (I), in which * (aa) represents a single or double bond; * R1 and R3 are each independently absent or selected from among H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to four, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced with O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl); * R2 and R4 are each independently selected from among H, an oxo group, a thioxo group, an NRxRy group, a halogen, or an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to four, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced with O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl); * Rx and Ry represent, independently of each other, H or a C1-C6 alkyl; * R5 and R6 are each independently selected from among H, an oxo group, a thioxo group, or an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to four, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced with O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), or * R5 and R6, together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded, form an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group, and (ii) one or more inorganic UV filters.
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Description

[0001]Compositions with inorganic UV filters and a nitrogen compound FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising inorganic UV filters. STATE OF THE ART It is known that daily exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays, even for a short period and under normal conditions, can lead to browning of the skin and / or irregular pigmentation (e.g. brown spots, uneven skin tone), but also to degradation of collagen and elastin fibers resulting in a change in the micro-relief of the skin and the appearance of signs of aging (e.g. wrinkles, etc.). On a daily basis, applying sun protection is an essential step both to prevent sunburn and to protect the skin from UVA / UVB rays.Many compositions intended for photo-protection (UV-A and / or UV-B) of the skin have therefore been proposed to date, including water-soluble and / or fat-soluble organic UV filters and / or inorganic UV filters capable of selectively absorbing UV radiation. These filters (and their quantities) are selected in particular according to the desired sun protection factor (SPF), which is defined as the ratio between the amount of energy needed to produce minimal erythema on skin protected by sunscreen and the amount of energy needed to produce the same level of erythema on unprotected skin. Choosing a sunscreen with the appropriate SPF also helps optimize the beauty and durability of the tan. But inorganic UV filters, particularly titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, tend to induce whitening in formulas or on the skin.In the case of makeup compositions, this whitening of the formulas can also have an impact on the darkest shades; it is then difficult to maintain a high SPF while avoiding the whitening effect to obtain the desired shade. In the case of sun care products, it is also difficult to have high SPF products without a white layer on the skin upon application that can persist, which is generally unattractive and therefore not appreciated by users. There therefore remains a need to develop new cosmetic products providing good protection thanks to the presence of inorganic UV filters, but without a whitening effect of the composition (particularly for makeup products) or of the film applied to the skin (particularly for skincare products). The Applicant has precisely developed a composition that meets these expectations.It unexpectedly demonstrated that the use of a nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, made it possible to improve the protective effect provided by inorganic UV filters (also referred to as the 'SPF booster' effect) and consequently to reduce the content of inorganic UV filters and thus reduce the whitening of the compositions or of the film applied to the skin. The nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, differs from conventional organic compounds used in sunscreen compositions in that it is insoluble. According to the invention, the term "insoluble compound" means a compound in the form of particles that is not soluble in water, in ethanol, or in water / ethanol mixtures in all proportions, at a concentration of 0.5% by weight, at room temperature (25°C).Despite its particulate and non-soluble form, capable of providing coverage, the compositions obtained according to the invention have a completely acceptable coverage, without masking effect or whitening effect. In addition, and unlike conventional organic compounds used in sunscreen compositions and known to provide a sticky effect, the use of the nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, provides a pleasant sensoriality after application to keratin materials. The combination according to the invention thus makes it possible to obtain sunscreen compositions comprising mineral filters with a very good SPF, even without soluble sunscreen agents, with acceptable coverage and good sensory properties, without masking effect or whitening effect of the formula or film applied to the skin.STATEMENT OF THE INVENTION The present invention therefore relates in particular to a cosmetic composition for the skin and / or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: (i) a nitrogenous compound of formula (I). a single or double bond, R 1 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R 2 and R 4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, NR group x R y , a halogen, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R x and R yrepresents, independently of each other, H or a C1-C6 alkyl, R 5 and R 6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo group, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), or R 5 and R 6form together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group, and (ii) one or more inorganic UV filters. Preferably, the content of nitrogen compound of formula (I), preferably guanine, ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises only, as sunscreen agents, the nitrogen compound of formula (I) and the inorganic UV filter(s), in other words, it does not comprise any other sunscreen agent, let alone a soluble sunscreen agent. The use of a nitrogen compound of formula (I) such as guanine, in combination with inorganic UV filters thus makes it possible to reduce the quantity of inorganic UV filters in the formula while maintaining a comparable SPF.In addition, since guanine is less white than titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, its presence induces less whitening effect on the formula or the skin. Finally, and unlike conventional inorganic UV filters, guanine appears to be easily biodegradable and non-bioaccumulative, with less impact on the environment. Thus, the combination according to the invention of a compound of formula (I) such as guanine with inorganic UV filters provides good sun protection without impacting the color and / or coverage properties of the composition linked to the whitening effect of inorganic UV filters: the combination according to the invention makes it possible to obtain all shade ranges in foundations, including dark shades, and for skincare and sunscreen products, it provides acceptable coverage, without a whitening effect of the formula or the film applied to the skin.According to a particular embodiment, the nitrogenous compound of formula (I) is guanine. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the skin and / or lips, comprising the application to said skin and / or said lips of a composition as defined according to the invention. Another subject of the invention is the use of a nitrogenous compound of formula (I) as defined in the invention, preferably guanine, in a composition comprising one or more inorganic UV filters, as an agent for improving (also called 'boosting') the protection of keratin materials against UV radiation and / or reducing the whitening of said composition containing inorganic UV filters and / or the whitening of the skin upon application of said composition.The invention also relates to a composition comprising a nitrogenous compound of formula (I) as defined according to the invention and one or more inorganic UV filters, for use in the prevention and / or treatment of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin and / or lips. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION A first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for the skin and / or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least (i) one nitrogenous compound of formula (I). a single or double bond, R 1 are each independently absent or selected from H, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12 optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R 2 and R 4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, NR groupx R y , a halogen, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12 optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R x and R y represents, independently of each other, H or a C1-C6 alkyl, R 5 and R 6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo group, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), or R 5 and R 6form together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group, and (ii) one or more inorganic UV filters. The term "cosmetic composition" means any composition for cosmetic, i.e. aesthetic, purposes, which can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratin materials, in particular human skin and / or lips. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" means any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratin materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response. The term "keratin materials" according to the invention means the skin and / or its appendages, and more particularly human skin and / or lips. In particular, this will be the skin of the face and / or neck and / or body, and the lips.The keratin materials in the context of the invention are healthy, that is to say not presenting any troubles or disorders which would be part of a pathological state (“non-healthy” subjects, suffering from a pathology). We will speak indifferently of healthy skin and / or lips or skin and / or lips in the rest of the description. Nitrogenous compound of formula (I) The composition according to the invention therefore comprises at least one nitrogenous compound of formula (I). a single or double bond,R 1 are each independently absent or selected from H, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12 optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R 2 and R 4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, NR group x R y , a halogen, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R x and R y represents, independently of each other, H or a C1-C6 alkyl, R 5 and R 6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo group, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), or R 5 and R 6form together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group. It is understood that in the compound of formula (I), a single or double bond such that each ring atom is In other words, each ring nitrogen atom has a valency of 3 and each ring carbon atom has a valency of 4. In some embodiments, R 1 and R 3 are each independently absent or selected from H and a C1-C6 alkyl group, including alkyl. In some embodiments, R 2 and R 4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, NR group x R y and a C1-C6 alkyl group, especially an alkyl. Preferably, R 2 and R 4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, and NH2 group. Typically, at least one of R2 and R 4 represents an oxo or thioxo group. Preferably, R 4 represents an oxo or thioxo group, in particular an oxo group. In certain embodiments, R 5 and R 6 are each independently selected from H, an oxo group and a C1-C6 alkyl group, including a methyl group. In other embodiments, R 5 and R 6form together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular an optionally substituted phenyl, or an optionally substituted imidazole group. Preferably, the aryl group, in particular phenyl, or imidazole is optionally substituted by one or more, preferably 1 to 2, substituents chosen from the group consisting of a C1-C6 alkyl group, OH and O-C1-C6 alkyl group, for example a methoxy group.According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a compound of formula (I) corresponding to the following formula (IA): in which R 7 is selected from H, C1-C6 alkyl, oxo, OH, thioxo, SH and O-C1-C6 alkyl, R 1 to R 4 are as defined above, and R 9 are each independently absent or selected from H, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl). R 7 is selected in particular from H and an oxo group. Preferably, in (IA), R 1 and R 3 are independently absent or represent H, R 2 is selected from H, an oxo group and NH2, R 4 is an oxo group and R 7 is selected from H and an oxo groupIn a particular embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is selected from: According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a compound of formula (I) chosen from the following compounds of formula (IA): preferably xanthine, hypoxanthine, uric acid and guanine, more preferably guanine. Preferably, in the compound of formula (IA), R 1 is absent, R2 is an NH2 R group 3 is H and R 4 is an oxo group. In this embodiment, the compound of formula (I) corresponds to guanine of the following formula: For the purposes of the present invention, the term “[Cx-Cy] aliphatic chain” means a saturated, linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain comprising x to y, in particular 1 to 12, carbon atoms. According to the invention, an aliphatic chain covers substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl groups. The term “(C x -C y ) », is understood, for the purposes of the present invention, to mean a saturated, linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, comprising x to y, preferably x to y, carbon atoms. By way of example, mention may be made of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, pentyl or hexyl groups. By “(C x -C y) », is understood, for the purposes of the present invention, to mean a monovalent, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising at least one double bond and comprising x to y carbon atoms, with x greater than or equal to 2. By way of example, mention may be made of ethenyl, propenyl, allyl, butenyl, pentenyl, or hexenyl groups. By “(C x -C y)”, means, for the purposes of the present invention, a monovalent, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising at least one triple bond and comprising x to y carbon atoms, with x greater than or equal to 2. By way of example, mention may be made of ethynyl, propynyl, butynyl, pentynyl, or hexynyl groups. By “halogen atom” or “halogen”, means, for the purposes of the present invention, fluorine, chlorine, bromine and iodine atoms. By “aryl”, means, for the purposes of the present invention, an aromatic hydrocarbon group, preferably comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and comprising one or more fused rings, such as for example a phenyl or naphthyl group. Advantageously, this is phenyl.For the purposes of the present invention, the term "heteroaryl" or "heteroaromatic" means an aromatic group comprising 5 to 10 cyclic atoms including one or more heteroatoms, advantageously 1 to 4 and even more advantageously 1 or 2, such as, for example, sulfur, nitrogen or oxygen atoms, the other cyclic atoms being carbon atoms. Examples of heteroaryl groups are furyl, thienyl, pyrrolyl, pyridinyl, imidazolyl, triazolyl, tetrazolyl, oxazolyl, isoxazolyl, thiazolyl, isothiazolyl, pyrazolyl, oxadiazolyl, thiadiazolyl, pyridazinyl, pyrimidinyl, pyrazinyl, triazinyl, quinolyl, isoquinolyl, quinoxalyl or indyl.By "optionally substituted" is meant, for the purposes of the present invention, that the group in question is optionally substituted by one or more, preferably 1 to 4 and in particular 1 or 2, substituents chosen from the group consisting of a halogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, OH, oxo, aryl, N3, CN, NO2, aralkyl, NRaRb, CORc, CO2Rd, CONReRf, and OR. g , in which R a to R g represents, independently of one another, H, C1-C6alkyl, C1-C6haloalkyl or aryl, preferably H or C1-C6 alkyl. Preferably, the substituent is selected from a C1-C6 alkyl group, an oxo group or NR a R b. According to a particular embodiment, the nitrogen compound of formula (I) is insoluble. By "insoluble compound" is meant according to the invention a compound in the form of particles which is not soluble in water, nor in ethanol, nor in water / ethanol mixtures in all proportions, at a concentration of 0.5% by weight, at room temperature (25°C). Despite its particulate and insoluble form, capable of providing coverage, the compositions obtained according to the invention have a completely acceptable coverage, without masking effect or whitening effect. According to a particular embodiment, the compound of formula (Ia) is guanine Guanine (CI 75170) is generally in the form of a white to light yellow powder. It has a refractive index close to 1.8, lower than the refractive index of titanium dioxide TiO2 (2.2) and zinc oxide ZnO (2.0), thus making it possible to reduce the opacity and the whitening effect provided by the inorganic UV filters with which it is combined in the compositions of the invention. The Applicant has thus shown in the examples below that comparable protection in terms of SPF is maintained by halving the quantity of TiO2 required, replaced by a material having a much lower refractive index. Furthermore, guanine is a biodegradable material, with less impact on the environment. The content of nitrogen compound of formula (I), preferably guanine, in the composition of the invention, will range in particular from 0.5 to 20%, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Thus for a care composition, in particular sun protection, the content of nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Thus for a makeup composition, in particular foundation, the content of nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, will generally range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition of the invention further comprises one or more inorganic UV filters. Inorganic UV filters. The inorganic UV filters used in the present invention are metal oxide pigments. In particular, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferably between 0.1 and 0.5 µm, and even more preferably between 0.1 and 0.3 µm, or even 0.1 to 0.2 µm. They are in particular chosen from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the inorganic UV filters are chosen from the group consisting of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and a mixture thereof. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least titanium dioxide.Preferably, the titanium dioxide and zinc oxide particles used in the present invention are not nanoscale particles, i.e. they are not a substance as defined in Article 3 of Regulation (EC) No. 1907 / 2006, intentionally manufactured at the nanoscale, containing particles, unbound or in the form of an aggregate or agglomerate, of which a minimum proportion of the particles (50%), in the number size distribution, have one or more external dimensions between 1nm and 100nm. Titanium dioxide (TiO2) The. in rutile form. It can be surface-treated or not. According to a particular method, titanium dioxide will be used on the surface with stearic acid, and preferably treated with alumina and stearic acid. It can be in powder form or in dispersion form. In powder form, we can notably mention the Solaveil SpeXtraTitanium Dioxide Powder product range from the company CRODA and in particular the reference SolaveilTM XTP-1 with INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina. The average particle size is 179nm with more than 99% of the particles having a size less than 300nm and less than 5% of particles having a size less than 100nm. It is therefore a non-nanoparticulate TiO2. Particle size measurement is performed using the Brookhaven X-Ray Disc Centrifuge (XRDC) technique to measure the particle size distribution of Solaveil SpeXtra powder dispersed in C12-C14 alkylbenzoate.According to another embodiment, dispersions of TiO2 particles in an oily dispersant are used. These include, in particular, the Solaveil SpeXtra product range. TMDispersions, in particular the following references: - SolaveilTM Triglyceride(and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina (approximate TiO2 content: 47%), - SolaveilTM GLyceryl Caprylate (and) Squalane (content approximate in TiO2: 42%). According to a particular and preferred method, we use a TiO2 in the form of powder treated with a lipophilic agent, such as the reference SolaveilTM XTP-1 with INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and)Stearic Acid (and)Alumina.The TiO2 content in the compositions of the invention will generally range from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Zinc oxide (ZnO). The zinc oxide particles are generally in the form of a white powder. The average particle size is particularly suitable for the commercial reference Zinc Oxide Gold Seal B from the company UNIVAR. The ZnO content in the compositions of the invention will generally range from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Dispersant The metal oxide particles, in particular TiO2 and / or ZnO, are dispersed in a dispersant and / or wetting agent and ground, for example, using a three-roll mill. As dispersing and / or wetting agents, particular mention may be made of fatty acids such as stearic acid or hydroxystearic acid, fatty acid triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglycerides, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters such as polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.Mention may in particular be made of the commercial reference APPLECARE PDS-300 MB with the INCI name: POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (and) ISOSTEARIC ACID (and) LECITHIN (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE from the company DKSH. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one compound of formula (I), in particular guanine and titanium dioxide as inorganic FUV. According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one compound of formula (I), in particular guanine and zinc oxide as inorganic FUV. According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide as inorganic FUV.According to a particular embodiment of the invention and with regard to the desired SPF, the total content of inorganic UV filters ranges from 0.1% to 30%, in particular from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 1% to 30%, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the total content of inorganic UV filters ranges from 1% to 15%, preferably 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For care compositions and in particular sun compositions, an SPF ranging from 10 to 50, in particular from 10 to 30, and preferably 15 to 30, will advantageously be sought. For makeup compositions, such as foundations, an SPF ranging from 5 to 15 will advantageously be sought.According to a particular method, the sun protection factor (SPF) is determined in vitro by a protocol based on the method described in the publication: Validation of an in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) method in blinded ring-testing. Pissavini, M., et al..(2018), Int J Cosmet Sci, 40: 263-268. ( https: / / doi.org / 10.1111 / ics.12459 ). As described in the examples below, each formula is applied to 3 HD6 PMMA plates (HelioScreen) and 3 SB6 PMMA plates (HelioScreen), at a rate of 1.3 and 1.2 mg / cm² respectively. Spreading is carried out using the HD-SpreadMaster robot (HelioScreen; the application probe is covered with a nitrile finger cot pre-saturated with product). To measure a blank spectrum, one plate of each type was prepared with 15µL of petroleum jelly. Absorbance measurements were performed using an OL756 spectroradiometer (OPTRONICS LABORATORIES). The in vitro SPF was then calculated using the following formula:in which E(λ) = erythemal action spectrum described by the CIE I(λ) = Global spectral irradiance at 40°N, midday, midsummer; dλ = Measurement step (1nm) with CHD6 = 0.225 CSB6 = 0.800 The person skilled in the art will accordingly adjust the respective contents of inorganic FUV (TiO2 and / or ZnO) and nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, to achieve this SPF protection performance while reducing the white appearance of the composition or film applied to the skin (for skincare compositions) and the impact on shade variations (for makeup compositions). In the case of a binary association (1 inorganic FUV and 1 nitrogen compound of formula (I) such as guanine), it is advantageous to use an inorganic FUV: nitrogen compound of formula (I) ratio ranging from 2:1 to 1:2, preferably 1:1. If it is a sunscreen composition with a desired high SPF,the composition will comprise at least TiO2 as inorganic FUV. In the case of a ternary association (2 inorganic FUV and 1 nitrogen compound of formula (I) such as guanine), it will be possible to advantageously use a ratio of inorganic FUV 1: inorganic FUV 2: nitrogen compound of formula (I) ranging from 2:2:1 to 1:1:2, preferably 1:1:1. Thus for a care composition, in particular sun protection, the total content of inorganic FUV will generally range from 10 to 20% by weight, in particular from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. And the content of nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Thus for a makeup composition, particularly foundation, the total content of inorganic UVF will generally range from 1 to 10% by weight,in particular from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. And the content of nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular guanine, will generally range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the care composition or sun composition according to the invention will comprise at least: (i) A nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular a guanine, in a content ranging from 1 to 10%, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (ii) One or more inorganic FUVs, preferably chosen from TiO2 and ZnO, in a total content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Such a composition according to the invention, in particular when it contains at least TiO2 as inorganic FUV, will generally have an SPF ranging from 10 to 30 and preferably from 15 to 30. According to a particular embodiment,the makeup composition according to the invention will comprise at least: (i) A nitrogen compound of formula (I), in particular a guanine, in a content ranging from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (ii) One or more inorganic UVFs, preferably chosen from TiO2 and ZnO, in a total content ranging from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Such a composition according to the invention will generally have an SPF ranging from 5 to 15. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention does not comprise any other sunscreen agent than (i) the nitrogen compound of formula (I) and (ii) the aforementioned inorganic UV filter(s), even less a soluble sunscreen agent. By 'soluble' sunscreen agent is meant in particular an organic UV filter capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase,or to be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase. Oily phase The composition of the invention comprises an oily phase. The term "oily phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils miscible with each other. The term "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. The oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof. The term "hydrocarbon oil" means, according to the invention, an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The term "silicone oil" means, according to the invention, an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. Preferably, hydrocarbon oils will be used. Mention may be made, in particular, of linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, C10-C40 synthetic ethers,synthetic C10-C40 esters, C12-C26 fatty alcohols, higher C12-C22 fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, in particular: C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®, linear alkanes having hydrocarbon chains in - C9-C17, C10-C14, C11-C13 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Créations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate, - C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC, - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97, and- C15-C19,such as those marketed by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN® L15, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one mixture of alkanes chosen from a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes, a mixture of C15-C19 alkanes, and mixtures thereof. According to another particular embodiment, the composition will comprise at least one ester oil. Among the (polar) “ester oils”, mention may in particular be made of: - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, propyl gallate; glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; - fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms,- synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1+R2 is ≥16, such as for example isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate,2-diethylhexyl succinate;- esters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70;- esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;- esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids;- polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated; and mixtures thereof. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one mixture of alkanes chosen from C9-C12 or C15-C19 mixtures and an ester oil. The following references may be mentioned in particular: - VEGELIGHT 1214 LC D with INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE and COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE from the company BIOSYNTHIS, - CETIOL C 5C MB with INCI name: COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE and TOCOPHEROL from the company BASF,and preferably their mixture. The oily phase of the composition according to the invention will generally represent from 20 to 55% by weight, preferably from 30 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Aqueous phase The composition of the invention generally also comprises an aqueous phase. The aqueous phase of the composition comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent. The term 'water-soluble solvent' according to the invention means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). Mention may in particular be made of:- lower C1-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof, preferably ethanol;- C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, preferably C3-C5 glycols;- C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol,polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, and mixtures thereof. It may also comprise hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof. The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention will generally represent from 45 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, and preferably from 55 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will further comprise one or more additional ingredients chosen from glycols, C2-C5 monoalcohols, oils, fatty esters, fatty acids, dispersants, emulsifiers, gelling agents, film-forming agents, fillers, coloring materials, in particular pigments, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, and mixtures thereof. Coloring materials According to a particular embodiment of the invention,in particular for tinted care compositions or makeup compositions, the composition comprises at least one coloring matter. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “coloring matter” means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. A coloring matter may be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring matters, materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the oily phase of the invention. According to a particular embodiment, the coloring matter(s) are pigments, in particular chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, and mixtures thereof. “Pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. According to a particular embodiment,the pigment(s) are in particular chosen from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), nacres or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof. Among the “mineral pigments”, mention may be made, as examples, of titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), optionally surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue. Among the “organic pigments”, mention may be made, for example,pigments D & C red no. 19; D & C red no. 9; D & C Red no. 22; D & C Red no. 21; D & C Red no. 28; D & C Yellow no. 6; D & C orange no. 4; D & C orange no. 5; D & C Red no. 27; D & C red no. 13; D & C Red no. 7; D & C Red no. 6; D & C Yellow no. 5; D & C Red no. 36; D & C Red no. 33; D & C orange no. 10; D & C yellow no. 6; D & C Red no. 30; D & C red no. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and cochineal carmine-based lakes. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least iron oxides. Advantageously, the pigments are surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent for better dispersion in the oily phase. The hydrophobic treatment agent is in particular chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes,polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts. When the composition comprises coloring materials and in particular pigments, in particular in the case of tinted care compositions or makeup compositions, their content will generally range from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. GALENICAL FORMULAS The composition is preferably intended to be applied to the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or body. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a care composition, a sun composition or a makeup composition for the skin and / or lips, in particular a care composition or a foundation. According to a first embodiment, it will be a composition for the care and / or sun protection of keratin materials,in particular of the skin of the body or face, preferably of the face. In particular, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an anti-aging care composition for the skin of the body or face, in particular of the face. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a photoprotective composition, such as a sunscreen. According to another embodiment, it will be a makeup composition for the skin of the face, in particular a foundation. It may be in particular in the form of an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion, a lotion, an aqueous gel, a milk, an oil, a serum, a cream, or a balm. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion. In the case of care compositions, particularly sun care, this may include a cream, a milk, an oil,a balm or self-tanner, in particular an SPF 50 or SPF 30 sunscreen for the face and / or body, an SPF 50 or SPF 30 sun milk for the face and / or body, an SPF 15 sun oil, an after-sun milk, an after-sun balm, a self-tanner or an after-sun oil. According to a particular mode, the composition is a protective composition, to be applied before sun exposure. According to a particular mode, the composition is a composition to be applied after sun exposure to enhance the tan and tan, improve its hold or provide a feeling of freshness and comfort to the skin. It may also be an oil, a balm or a lip stick. In the case of makeup compositions, it may in particular be a foundation, a primer,or a lipstick. METHOD AND USES The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the skin and / or lips, comprising the application to said skin and / or said lips of a composition as defined above. The keratin materials (skin and / or lips) in the context of the invention are healthy, i.e. not exhibiting any disorders or problems which would be a result of a pathological condition (“non-healthy” subjects, suffering from a pathology). According to a particular embodiment, the non-therapeutic cosmetic process according to the invention aims to limit the darkening of the skin and / or improve the color and / or uniformity of the complexion. According to another embodiment, the non-therapeutic cosmetic process according to the invention aims to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging. By 'prevent',we mean reducing and / or slowing down the appearance of signs of skin aging and in particular the alteration of the biomechanical properties of the epidermis linked in particular to the degradation of collagen fibers and elastin. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is applied to the skin before and during exposure to sunlight to protect it against UV radiation. According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention is applied to the skin after exposure to sunlight to enhance the tan and the tan, to improve its hold or to provide a feeling of freshness and comfort to the skin. The invention also relates to the use of a nitrogenous compound of formula (I) as defined above, preferably guanine, in a composition comprising one or more inorganic UV filters,as an agent for improving (also called 'boosting') the protection of keratin materials against UV radiation and / or reducing the whitening of said composition containing inorganic UV filters and / or the whitening of the skin upon application of said composition. The Applicant has in fact shown that the use of guanine makes it possible to boost the protective effect of inorganic UVFs. This will also be referred to as an 'SPF booster' or 'sunscreen activator' agent. The presence of guanine in the composition of the invention makes it possible to reduce the content of inorganic UVFs, while maintaining the protection (SPF). The examples illustrated below show that the composition according to the invention comprising a nitrogenous compound of formula (I) such as guanine, allows an increase in the SPF of at least 10%, in particular at least 20%, preferably at least 30% compared to the same composition without said nitrogenous compound of formula (I). In other words,the combination of the nitrogen compound of formula (I) such as guanine and inorganic UVF, has a synergistic effect on SPF protection. This booster effect of the nitrogen compound of formula (I) thus makes it possible to reduce the content of inorganic UVF in the compositions, and thus reduce the disadvantages of inorganic UVF (non-biodegradable compounds and giving a white appearance to the composition and to the film applied to the skin, making it difficult to use inorganic UVF in a range of dark shades for makeup compositions and unsightly the persistent white appearance of the film applied to the skin of care compositions, in particular sun care compositions). Another subject is a composition comprising a nitrogen compound of formula (I) as defined according to the invention and one or more inorganic UV filters, for use in the prevention and / or treatment of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin and / or lips. In particular,the composition prevents skin photoaging. The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. The % are expressed as % by weight of ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLESExample 1: Effect of guanine in combination with UV filters in foundations (SPF and tint)Foundation compositions are prepared and illustrated in the following tables:[Table 1] Formulas 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9Pha Tém Tém Tém Invent Invent Compa Tém Tém Tém se oin oin oin ion ion ratif oin oin in (san (5% (5% (2.5% (2.5% (2.5% (2.5% (2.5 (2.5 s TiO2 ZnO) TiO2 ZnO + TiO2 + % % (2.5% FUV) ) + 2.5% 2.5% TiO2 ZnO) guani 2.5% guani ZnO) ) ne) guani ne) ne) Ingredients (INCI name) EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT and BENZYL ALCOHOL A1(CANDELILLA RESIN) 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1COCO- A1CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2A2 ISOAMYL LAURATE 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5C9-12 ALKANE,COCO- CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE( A2VEGELIGHT 1214 LC D) 5,9 5,9 5,9 5,9 5,9 5,9 7,15 7,15 7,15A2 PARFUM 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3C9-12 ALKANE, DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE, PROPYLENE CARBONATE (VEGELIGHT BENTONE A2SILK) 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62COCO- CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE, DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE, PROPYLENE A2CARBONATE 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 (BENTONE GEL CCC V MB) POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE, POLYGLYCERYL-10 DIOLEATE (GRANSURF A2PG-14) 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE (S-FACE A2IS-201P MB) 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6CI 77499, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC ACID, POLYHYDROXYSTEARI C ACID (BWBO-ASGP3 A3MB) 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26CI 77491, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC ACID, POLYHYDROXYSTEARI C ACID (BWRO-ASGP3 A3MB) 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43CI 77492, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC ACID, POLYHYDROXYSTEARI C ACID (BWYO-ASGP3 A3MB) 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3CI 77891, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC ACID,POLYHYDROXYSTEARI C ACID (BTD-ASGP3 A3MB) 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01TITANIUM DIOXIDE, STEARIC ACID, ALUMINA (SOLAVEIL A3XTP1-PW MB) - 5 - 2,5 - 2,5 2,5 - -POLYHYDROXYSTEARI C ACID, CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, ISOSTEARIC ACID, LECITHIN, POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE (APPLECARE PDS-300 A3MB) 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3Qsp Qsp Qsp Qsp10 Qsp10 Qsp Qsp Qsp1B1 EAU PURIFIEE100 100 100 0, 0 Qsp100 100 100 00B1 GLYCEROL VEGETAL 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 50,02 0,02 0,02 0,02 0,02B1 ACIDE CITRIQUE5 55 0,025 0,025 0,0255 5 0,025B1 CITRATE DE SODIUM 0,06 0,06 0,06 0,06 0,06 0,06 0,06 0,06 0,06HYDROXYACETOPHEN B1ONE 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3B1 SODIUM BENZOATE 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2B1 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5B2 PULLULAN 1,1 1,1 1,1 1,1 1,1 1,1 1,1 1,1 1,1B3 ETHANOL 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7CELLULOSE, CSTEAROYL GLUTAMIC 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 ACID (CELLULOBEADS D-5-ASG3 MB) CI 77947 (ZINC OXIDE A3GOLD SEAL B) 5 2,5 2,5 2,5A3 GUANINE 2,5 2,5 2,5[Table 2] Formules 10 11 12 13 14Phas Invention Invention Invention Invention Invention eIngrédients (nom(TiO2 + ZnO (TiO2 > (TiO2 < (ZnO > (ZnO < INCI) + guanine) guanine) guanine) guanine) guanine) EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX EXTRACT and BENZYL ALCOHOL (CANDELILLA A1RESIN) 1,1 1,1 1,1 1,1 1,1COCO- CAPRYLATE / CAPR A1ATE 4,2 4,2 4,2 4,2 4,2ISOAMYL A2LAURATE 5 5 5 5 5C9-12 ALKANE, COCO- CAPRYLATE / CAPR A TE (VEGELIGHTA21214 LC D) 5,9 5,9 5,9 5,9 5,9A2 PARFUM 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3C9-12 ALKANE, DISTEARDIMONIU M HECTORITE, PROPYLENE CARBONATE (VEGELIGHT A2BENTONE SILK) 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62 2,62COCO- CAPRYLATE / CAPR ATE, DISTEARDIMONIU M HECTORITE, PROPYLENE CARBONATE (BENTONE GEL A2CCC V MB) 2 2 2 2 2POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEAT E, POLYGLYCERYL- 10 DIOLEATE (GRANSURF PG- A214) 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9 3,9 POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE (S- A2FACE IS-201P MB) 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6 2,6CI 77499, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC ACID, POLYHYDROXYST EARIC ACID A3(BWBO-ASGP3 MB) 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26 5,26CI 77491, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC ACID, POLYHYDROXYST EARIC ACID A3(BWRO-ASGP3 MB) 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43 5,43CI 77492, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC ACID, POLYHYDROXYST EARIC ACID A3(BWYO-ASGP3 MB) 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3CI 77891, STEAROYL GLUTAMIC ACID, POLYHYDROXYST EARIC ACID (BTD- A3ASGP3 MB) 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01TITANIUM DIOXIDE, STEARIC ACID, ALUMINA (SOLAVEIL XTP1- A3PW MB) 1,66 3,75 1,25 - -POLYHYDROXYST EARIC ACID, CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE,ISOSTEARIC ACID, LECITHIN, POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEAT E (APPLECARE A3PDS-300 MB) 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3B1 PURIFIED WATER Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100GLYCEROL B1VEGETAL 5 5 5 5 5B1 CITRIC ACID 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025B1SODIUM CITRATE 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06HYDROXYACETOP B1HENONE 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3SODIUM B1BENZOATE 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2MAGNESIUM B1SULFATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5B2 PULLULAN 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1B3 ETHANOL 7 7 7 7 7CELLULOSE, STEAROYL CGLUTAMIUM ACID 4 4 4 4 4 (CELLULOBEADS D-5-ASG3 MB) CI 77947 (ZINC OXIDE GOLD SEAL A3B) 1.67 3.75 1.25A3 GUANINE 1.67 1.25 3.75 1.25 3.75These compositions were prepared according to the following protocol, at room temperature, except for the candelilla resin which is heated beforehand. Phase A1 is heated to 95°C using a water bath. The ingredients of phase A3 (pigments and TiO2, ZnO, guanine) are weighed in a cup, and well homogenized with a spatula,then ground using the three-cylinder. Phase A4 is weighed in a cup, and well homogenized with a spatula, then ground using the three-cylinder. The ingredients of the aqueous phase B1 are weighed and we wait until all the powders are well dissolved before adding phase B2 and homogenizing under RAYNERI. The ingredients of the fatty phase A2 are weighed,and the phase is homogenized for 5 min using an ultra-turrax. Phase A1 is added to phase A2 and the mixture is homogenized for 5 min using an ultra-turrax. Phase A3 is then added to A1+A2 and the mixture is stirred for 10 min using a RAYNERI mixer. The mixture (B1+B2) is gradually added to phase (A1+A2+A3) using a RAYNERI mixer to form the emulsion; then B3 is added, then C using a RAYNERI mixer and the whole mixture is stirred at 950 rpm for 15 min. The compositions were then evaluated according to different criteria (SPF and color in the mass). SPF in vitroThe sun protection factor (SPF) is determined in vitro using a protocol based on the method described in the publication: Validation of an in vitro sunprotection factor (SPF) method in blinded ring-testing. Pissavini, M., et al.. (2018), Int J Cosmet Sci, 40: 263-268. ( https: / / doi.org / 10.1111 / ics.12459 ). Each formula is applied on 3 plates of PMMA HD6 (HelioScreen) and 3 plates of PMMA SB6 (HelioScreen),at a rate of 1.3 and 1.2 mg / cm² respectively. Spreading is carried out using the HD-SpreadMaster robot (HelioScreen; the application probe is covered with a nitrile finger cot pre-saturated with product). In order to measure a blank spectrum, one plate of each type was prepared with 15 µL of petroleum jelly. Absorbance measurements are carried out using an OL756 spectroradiometer (OPTRONICS LABORATORIES). The in vitro SPF is then calculated using the following formula:, in which E(λ) = erythemal action spectrum described by the CIE I(λ) = Global spectral irradiance at 40°N, midday, midsummer; dλ = Measurement step (1nm) with CHD6 = 0.225 CSB6 = 0.800 Mass colorimetric measurements The formula is placed in a 0.5mm deep cup, the surface of the formula is smoothed, the cup is then placed in a support. The colorimetric measurement is immediately carried out using a MA98 multi-angle spectro-colorimeter (XRITE) placed on the support. The measurement and operating conditions are as follows: direct geometry: light source at 45° relative to the normal, measurement angle 0° relative to the normal; D65 source; observer 10°. The colorimetric values ​​are then calculated in the CIELAB color space. The differences in clarity ΔL* and saturation ΔC* are calculated between the values ​​obtained for the control formula and the different test formulas (NF EN ISO / CIE 11664-4:2019).A positive ΔL* value indicates a sample that is lighter than the control, a negative ΔL* value indicates a sample that is darker than the control. A positive ΔC* value indicates that the sample is brighter than the control, a negative ΔC* value indicates that the sample is duller than the control. The results are presented in the following tables:[Table 3] Formulas 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9Control Inventio n Inventio n Comparat (without (2.5% if Control F. UV) Témoi Witness TiO2 + (2.5% Witness Witness nn 2.5% ZnO +(2.5% nn guanine 2.5% TiO2 + (2.5% (5% (5% ) guanine 2.5% (2.5% (2.5% guanine TiO2) ZnO) ) ZnO) TiO2) ZnO) e) Ratings 11.2 ± 5.6 ± 7.7 ± 4.7 ± 4.6 ± SPF 0.60.3 9.6 ± 0.2 5.8 ± 0.2 7.6 ± 0.00.3 0.3 0.2 ΔL 4.33 2.78 -1.30 -1.45 0.50 -1.03 -1.21 -0.89ΔC -5.81 -1.37 1.47 5.37 3.98 3.40 7.63 7.76These results show that the combination of guanine with inorganic UV filters (TiO2 or ZnO) provides SPF protection close to the control, but with a reduction in the whitening of the formula and an improvement in the vividness of the shade (negative ΔL* and positive ΔC*). The shade is less dull and grayed compared to the control. The use of guanine therefore allows for more vivid shades, across a whole range of shades and with SPF protection. [Table 4] Formulas 10 11 12 13 14Invention (TiO2 + Invention Invention Invention Invention ZnO + (TiO2 > (TiO2 < (ZnO > (ZnO < guanine) guanine) guanine) guanine) guanine) SPF evaluations 7.6 ± 0.6 10.1 ± 0.4 8.3 ± 0.3 5.7 ± 0.2 6,2 ± 0.2ΔL -1.26 -0.97 -1.29 -1.68 -0.74ΔC 2.95 1.57 2.83 5.41 5.21These illustrative examples of the invention confirm the previous results: maintenance of SPF protection close to the control and improvement of the shade thanks to the presence of guanine.Example 2: Effect of guanine in association with inorganic UV filters in care compositions (SPF and coverage) [Table 5] PhDescription InvInv Co Inv Co Co Co Co Co Co as enti enti mpa enti mpa mpa mpa mpa mpa mpa es on on ratif on ratif ratif ratif ratif ratif ratif (TiO (gu (TiO (gu (10 (10 (10 (6.6 (Zn (Zn 2 anin 2 anin % % % % OO alone e alone e Gu gua TiO gua alone alone 20% alone 10% alone ani nin 2 + nin 20% 10% ) e ) e ne e + 10% e + ) ) 20% 10% + 10 ZnO 6.6 ) ) 10 % ) % % Zn TiO TiO O) 2 + 2 ) 6.6 % Zn O) DICAPRYLYL 6.0 6.06.00 6.0 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00CARBONATE, 0 0 0 STEARALKONIUM HECTORITE, PROPYLENE CARBONATE, TOCOPHEROL (COSMEDIA GEL CC A1 MB) POLYGLYCERYL-4 4.0 4.04.00 4.0 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00DIISOSTEARATE / POL 0 0 0 YHYDROXYSTEARAT E / SEBACATE, CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, POLYGLYCERYL-3 OLEATE, DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER, TOCOPHEROL, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED A1 (ISOLAN 17 MB) SORBITAN 1,6 1,61,60 1,6 1,60 1,60 1,60 1,60 1,60 1,60A1 SESQUIOLEATE 0 0 0 COCO- 24, 24, 24,8 24, 35,1 35,1 35,1 35,1 35,1 35,1 CAPRYLATE / CAPRAT 80 80 0 82 0 0 0 0 0 0 A2 E C15-19 ALKANE 2,5 2,52,50 2,5 2,50 2,50 2,50 2,50 2,50 2,50A2 0 0 0 G, UANINE 10, 10, / 6,6 / / 20,0 / / 10,0A3 00 00 6 0 0 TITANIUM DIOXIDE, 10, / 10,0 6,6 / 20,0 / / 10,0 / STEARIC ACID, 00 0 6 0 0 ALUMINA (SOLAVEIL A4 XTP1-PW MB) CI 77947 (ZINC OXIDE / 10,10.0 6.6 20.0 / / 10.0 / / A4 GOLD SEAL B) 00 0 6 0 0 POLYHYDROXYSTEA 0.6 0.60.60 0.6 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30RIC ACID, 0 0 0 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, ISOSTEARIC ACID, LECITHIN, POLYGLYCERYL-3 A4 POLYRICINOLEATE (APPLECARE PDS-300 MB) PURIFIED WATER Qs Qs Qsp Qs Qsp Qsp Qsp Qsp Qsp Qsp pp 100 p 100 100 100 100 100 100 B1 100 100 100 HYDROXYACETOPH 0.3 0.30.30 0.3 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30B1 NONE 0 0 0 C HLORPHENESIN 0,2 0.20.27 0.2 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27B1 7 7 7 G LYCEROL VEGETAL 4,0 4.04.00 4.0 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00B1 0 0 0 PROPANEDIOL 4.0 4.04.00 4.0 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00B1 0 0 0 MAGNESIUM 1.0 1.01.00 1.0 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00B2 SULFATE 0 0 0 T ROMETHAMINE 0,0 0.00.07 0.0 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07B3 7 7 7 The compositions were prepared according to the following protocol, at room temperature, under Rayneri :Phase A4 is passed through the mini tricylinder. Phase A1 is homogenized under turax then phases A2 and A3 are added in order and the mixture is homogenized under turax after each introduction until a homogeneous phase is obtained. Phase B is prepared as follows: the water is heated to 70°C to solubilize the chlorphenesin, then cooled then add the phases one after the other with 5 min of stirring between each under rayneri. Phase B is then added to phase A under rayneri in a trickle by increasing the speed to 900 rpm then leave to stir for 15 min at 900 rpm. The compositions were then evaluated according to different criteria: SPF according to the protocol described in example 1 and opacity (coverage) according to the following protocol. Opacity (coverage) measurement The formula is spread on a "contrast card" type support having at least one black area and one white area.The spreading is carried out using an automatic device and a BIRD type bar, with a 30µm air gap. The film is dried in a controlled manner for 2 hours at 40°C. After drying, the measurements are carried out using a spectro-colorimeter (COLOR I7800, XRITE). The measurement conditions are as follows: d / 8° integrating sphere geometry, specular included. The measurements are carried out for each sample: One Yft measurement, on the black area of ​​the card covered with cosmetic product, another Yfb measurement on the white area of ​​the card covered with cosmetic product. The ratio of the Y luminances obtained is then calculated: O = Opacity = Yft / Yfb The opacity can be between 0 (zero opacity) and 100 (total opacity). For each formula, 3 measurements are carried out and the averages and standard deviations obtained are calculated to express the opacity.The results are shown below:[Table 6] Inven Inven Comp Inven Comp Comp Comp Comp Comp Comp Comp tion tion aratif tion aratif aratif aratif aratif aratif (TiO2 (guani (TiO2 (guani (10% (10% (10% (6.6% (ZnO (ZnO alone ne alone ne Guan guan TiO2 + guan alone alone 20%) alone 10%) alone ine + ine + 10% ine + 20%) 10%) 20%) 10%) 10% 10% ZnO) 6.6% TiO2 ZnO) TiO2 ) + 6.6% ZnO) Evaluations S. PF 41,0 7.0 ± 30,6 23,5 4.9 ± >80 5,6 ±2.9+ / - 21.3+ / - 3.3+ / - ± 5.9 0.2 ± 1.2 0.2 0.0 0.2 1.0 0.1 Opacity 40.5 32.7 39.9 ± 37.8 33.7 ± 49.6 ± 25.8 ± 17.4+ / - 32.7+ / - 14.2+ / - ± 1.0 ± 0.5 1.1 ± 1.8 1.9 0.9 0.4 0.4 0.8 0.4 (coverage)These results show in particular that:- guanine boosts the SPF of TiO2 in the guanine + TiO2 association compared to the ZnO + TiO2 association at equivalent contents (41.0 with guanine vs 30.6 with ZnO), with acceptable coverage; - guanine boosts the SPF of ZnO (7.0 vs 4.9) while maintaining coverage, without whitening the composition. The use of guanine in sun care compositions with high levels of inorganic UV filters therefore makes it possible to improve the SPF while maintaining acceptable coverage, without whitening the skin upon application.

Claims

CLAIMS 1 . Composition cosmétique de la peau et / ou des lèvres comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins : (i) a nitrogen compound of formula (I) d ans laquelle a single or double bond, and R 3 are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R 2 and R 4 are each independently selected from H, an oxo, thioxo, NR group x R y , a halogen, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12 optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), R x and R y represents, independently of each other, H or a C1-C6 alkyl, R 5 and R 6are each independently selected from H, an oxo group, thioxo, a C1-C aliphatic chain 12 optionally substituted, where one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl), or R 5 and R 6 form together with the carbon atoms to which they are bonded an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted imidazole group, and ( ii) un ou plusieurs filtres UV inorganiques, characterized in that the content of nitrogen compound of formula (I), preferably in g uanine, va de 0,5% à 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.

2. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que le composé azoté de formula (I) corresponds to the following formula (IA): in which R 7 is selected from H, C1-C6 alkyl, oxo, OH, thioxo, SH and O-C1-C6 alkyl, R 1 to R 4 are as defined above, and R 9are each independently absent or selected from H, an optionally substituted C1-C12 aliphatic chain, wherein one or more, preferably one to 4, methylene units of the aliphatic chain are optionally replaced by O, C(O), NH or N(C1-C6 alkyl).

3. Composition selon la revendication 1 ou la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce que dans ledit composé azoté de formule (I-A), R1 et R3 sont indépendamment absents ou represent H, R 2 is selected from H, an oxo group and NH2, R 4 is an oxo group and R 7 is selected from H and an oxo group.

4. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que ledit composé azoté de formule (I-A) est choisi parmi les composés suivants : preferably xanthine, hypoxanthine, uric acid and guanine, more preferably guanine. 5 . Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisée en ce que le ou les filtres UV inorganiques sont choisis dans le groupe constitué par l’oxyde de zinc, titanium dioxide and their mixture. 6 . Composition selon la revendication 5, caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend au less titanium dioxide. 7 . Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisée en ce que la teneur totale en filtres UV inorganiques va de 0,1% à 30%, en particulier de 0,5% à 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 1% to 30%, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisée en ce que la teneur en composé azoté de formule (I), de préférence en guanine, va de 1% à 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 9 . Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisée en which further comprises one or more additional ingredients chosen from glycols, C2-C5 monoalcohols, oils, fatty esters, fatty acids, dispersants, émulsionnants, les gélifiants, les agents filmogènes, les charges, les pigments, et leurs mixtures. 1 0. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 9, caractérisée en ce que la composition comprend une teneur totale en pigments allant de 0,1% à 25% en poids, in particular from 8 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 1 1. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 10, caractérisée en whether it is a care composition, a sun composition or a composition of maquillage de la peau et / ou des lèvres, en particulier une composition de soin ou un fond de complexion. 1 2. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 11, caractérisée en ce qu’elle est sous la forme d’une émulsion, d’une lotion, d’un gel aqueux, d’un lait, d’une huile, d’un sérum, d’une crème, ou d’un baume, en particulier d’une émulsion eau-dans-huile.

13. Utilisation d’un composé azoté de formule (I) tel que défini dans l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, de préférence la guanine, dans une composition comprenant un ou several inorganic UV filters, as an agent for reducing the whitening of said composition containing inorganic UV filters. 1 4. Composition comprenant un composé azoté de formule (I) tel que défini dans any one of claims 1 to 4, and one or more inorganic UV filters, for use in preventing and / or treating the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin and / or lips.

Citation Information

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