Cosmetic composition of oil-in-water emulsion type, based on a lamellar phase structure

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: (a) at least one saturated C16-C22 and preferably C16-C18 fatty alcohol; (b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, and at least one sulfonate function, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one vegetable hydrocarbon oil with a melting temperature of less than or equal to 25°C It also relates to a cosmetic treatment process in which the said composition is applied to a keratin material and to the use of the said composition in the cosmetics field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or make-up of the skin, or for the care of the hair.

Description

[0001] Description

[0002] Title: Cosmetic composition of oil-in-water emulsion type, based on a lamellar phase structure

[0003] Technical field

[0004] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, which is based on a structure of specific lamellar phases and affords advantageous sensory properties that are appreciated by users when it is applied to a keratin material.

[0005] The term “keratin material” notably means the skin, the scalp, keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, head hair, bodily hair, the nails, and mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin (body, face, neck, area around the eyes, eyelids).

[0006] Prior art

[0007] The type of presentation form considered by the present invention is a lamellar-phase oil-in- water emulsion stabilized by the presence of at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol and at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain. This presentation form has notably been described in patent applications WO2018108878 and W02020002538, for the purpose of developing compositions intended for masking skin imperfections, moisturizing the skin and / or treating the signs of skin ageing, in particular the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, particularly as they increase with age.

[0008] Unfortunately, it proves difficult to reconcile satisfaction of the abovementioned objectives with additional requirements, notably in terms of sensory quality, in a single composition. Specifically, for obvious reasons, users also wish to have compositions which are easy to apply, which afford a soft sensation and which are free of any adverse sensory or visual effects. However, compositions having the abovementioned presentation form may, on application, give rise to a phenomenon known as “soapiness”. This phenomenon is characterized by the appearance of a whitish film on the skin, during the application and / or at the end of application of the formulation to the skin.

[0009] The introduction of silicone compounds is already being put to use to counteract this adverse phenomenon.

[0010] Disclosure of the invention The object of the present invention is, precisely, to propose a presentation formulation which allows all the abovementioned requirements to be met, without having to resort to the use of silicone compounds.

[0011] More specifically, the object of the present invention is to develop compositions with a lamellar-phase oil-in-water architecture, offering advantageous sensory properties, and in particular reduced soapiness during and / or at the end of application.

[0012] A subject of the present invention is also the development of compositions with lamellar- phase oil-in-water architecture in accordance with the preceding requirements and which also have satisfactory stability, in particular stability evaluated after 24 h at 25 °C and after two months of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C.

[0013] Finally, the invention is also directed to proposing a presentation formulation with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of renewable starting materials and / or those with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin, and more particularly of plant origin, while at the same time reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin, notably silicone compounds. Specifically, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing towards meeting the global challenges. It thus proves essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby enabling these environmental challenges to be met.

[0014] Summary of the invention

[0015] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:

[0016] (a) at least one saturated C16-C22 and preferably C16-C18 fatty alcohol;

[0017] (b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, and comprising at least one sulfonate function, and mixtures thereof; and

[0018] (c) at least one vegetable hydrocarbon oil with a melting temperature of less than or equal to 25°C.

[0019] As illustrated in the examples hereinbelow, the inventors have found that the use of at least one vegetable hydrocarbon oil in accordance with the invention, a biobased compound with a high naturalness index, in a composition with a lamellar phase structure can significantly improve the sensory properties of this composition, notably by limiting the phenomenon of soapiness, without otherwise impairing its stability and its other performance qualities.

[0020] Another subject of the present invention is a process for cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in which a composition as defined above is applied to said keratin material.

[0021] A subject of the present invention is also the use of a composition as defined previously in the cosmetics field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or make-up of the skin, of the body or of the face, or for the care of the hair.

[0022] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the detailed description that follows.

[0023] In the text hereinbelow, the expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more” and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range.

[0024] Detailed description

[0025] The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic. The term “cosmetic” refers to a composition that is compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and integuments. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0026] The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin.

[0027] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tautness or redness, liable to discourage the user from applying this composition.

[0028] Saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol(s) (a)

[0029] The term “saturated fatty alcohol” means any alcohol comprising a linear saturated (containing no covalent double or triple bonds) hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a linear alkyl radical, said chain comprising between 16 and 22 carbon atoms and a hydroxyl function. For the purposes of the invention, the term “hydrocarbon-based chain” means an organic group predominantly or even exclusively formed from hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms. In particular, this chain is free of silicon atoms and thus not silicone-based.

[0030] The saturated fatty alcohol (a) present in the composition in accordance with the invention comprises between 16 and 22 carbon atoms, preferably between 16 and 18 carbon atoms.

[0031] The saturated fatty alcohol (a) present in the composition in accordance with the invention is solid at room temperature (20°C ± 5°C) and advantageously has an -OH function at the end of the chain.

[0032] The saturated fatty alcohol (a) that is suitable for the present invention may notably be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0033] With particular preference, the composition according to the invention contains at least one saturated fatty alcohol (a) chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol (or cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol).

[0034] Preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of Ci6 and Cis fatty alcohols (a). More preferentially, the composition comprises at least one mixture of cetyl (Ci6) and stearyl (Cis) alcohols, also known as cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0035] More preferably, the composition comprises a mixture of at least two Ci6 and Cis saturated fatty alcohols, respectively, preferably in a Ci6 fatty alcohol(s) / Cis fatty alcohol(s) mass ratio ranging from 20 / 80 to 80 / 20 and advantageously in a Ci6 fatty alcohol(s) / Cis fatty alcohol(s) mass ratio equal to 50 / 50.

[0036] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and more preferentially from 2.5% to 7% by weight of saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] Anionic surfactant(s) (b) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain

[0038] The anionic surfactant (b) that is useful in the context of the invention comprises at least one C16-C22 and preferably Ci6-Cis hydrocarbon-based chain. This chain may be linear, saturated (not containing any double or triple covalent bonds) or unsaturated (possibly containing one or more double and / or triple covalent bonds). Preferably, the anionic surfactant (b) that is useful in the context of the invention comprises only one saturated or unsaturated linear hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0039] In particular, the anionic surfactant (b) contains only one C16-C22 and preferably C16-C18 hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0040] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from surfactants also comprising at least one sulfonate function, notably as defined hereinbelow in formula (I), and mixtures thereof.

[0041] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function and mixtures thereof.

[0042] More particularly, the anionic surfactant (b) may be chosen from the surfactants of general formula (I):

[0043] [Chem 1]

[0044] RCOY(CH2)nSO3M (I) in which

[0045] - R represents a saturated linear or branched C16-C22 alkyl group;

[0046] - Y represents -O- or -NR3- with R3 representing a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl group;

[0047] - M is chosen from the group formed by a hydrogen atom, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal cations, ammonium salts and organic amines;

[0048] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3; and mixtures thereof.

[0049] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from (Ci6-C22)alkylsulfonate salts, (Ci6-C22)alkylamidesulfonate salts, (Ci6- C22)alkylarylsulfonate salts, (Ci6-C22)alkylsulfoacetate salts, N-(Ci6-C22)acyl-N-(Ci- C6)alkyltaurate salts, (Ci6-C22)acylisethionate salts, (Ci6-C22)alkylsulfolaurate salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Preferentially, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from:

[0051] - acylisethionates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0052] - N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or the cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, the alkyl group is a methyl; and

[0053] - mixtures thereof; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0054] As N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, mention may be made of sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate sold under the name NIKKOL PMT® by the company Nikkol; the sodium salt of N-stearoyl N- methyltaurate (sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate) sold under the name NIKKOL SMT by the company Nikko.

[0055] In particular, the anionic surfactant (b) is at least sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate.

[0056] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 2 % by weight, and more preferentially from 0.1 % to 1.5 % by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (b), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] In the compositions in accordance with the invention, the fatty alcohol(s) (a) / anionic surfactant(s) (b) mass ratio may range from 10:1 to 6:4, preferably from 19:2 to 7:3, and even more preferentially from 9:1 to 7:2.

[0058] Without wishing to be bound by any theory, it appears that the fatty alcohol(s) (a) and the anionic surfactant(s) (b) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain form, with the hydrophilic phase, an alpha crystalline phase, also referred to as alpha gel. This phase may notably be characterized by DSC analysis and by X-ray diffraction at a temperature lower than the melting point of the alpha gel phase.

[0059] Thus, the composition in accordance with the invention is capable of forming crystalline lamellar phases.

[0060] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention contain at least one swollen alpha-crystalline phase having a swelling period of greater than 10 nm, preferably greater than 12 nm and even more preferentially greater than or equal to 15 nm. The swelling period is defined as being the sum of the thickness of a bilayer formed by the fatty alcohol(s) (a) and the anionic surfactant(s) (b) and the thickness of the water layer between two lamellae, this unit being repeated several times. According to a particular embodiment, in a composition according to the invention, the difference between the number of carbon atoms in the hydrocarbon-based chain of the anionic surfactant(s) (b) and the number of carbon atoms in the fatty alcohol(s) (a) does not differ by more than 5 carbon atoms, and is preferentially less than or equal to 4.

[0061] Vegetable hydrocarbon oil(s) (c)

[0062] For the purposes of the invention, the term “oil” means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C±5°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0063] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0064] The vegetable hydrocarbon oils according to the invention are volatile or non-volatile, in particular non-volatile.

[0065] Note that they are different from hydrogenated vegetable oils, that is to say vegetable oils that have undergone hydrogenation.

[0066] Vegetable hydrocarbon oils (c) comprise, in particular, triesters of glycerides, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol in which the fatty acids may have varying chain lengths from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated (without double or triple covalent bonds) or unsaturated (able to contain one or more double and / or triple covalent bonds).

[0067] The vegetable hydrocarbon oils (c) suitable for the invention may be chosen from:

[0068] - hazelnut, babassu, castor, camellia, cottonseed, wheatgerm, rice bran, sunflower, grapeseed, maize, apricot, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, coconut, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, and muscatel rose oils, and mixtures thereof;

[0069] - caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel;

[0070] - coco-caprylate / caprate, for example sold under the name Cetiol® LC by the company Cognis or else under the name DUB 810 C by the company Stearinerie Dubois; and

[0071] - mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the vegetable hydrocarbon oil (c) is chosen from the following oils:

[0072] - hazelnut oil (INCI name: Corylus Avellana Seed Oil), for example the oil marketed under the name Huile Vierge de Noisette - Corylol by the company Bertin;

[0073] - babassu oil (INCI name: Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil), for example the oil marketed under the name Cropure™ Babassu-SS-(LK) by the company Croda;

[0074] - castor oil (INCI name: Ricinus Communis Seed Oil), for example the oil marketed under the name Crystal® O by the company Vertellus, under the name Lipovol™ CO by the company Vantage Specialty Chemicals, under the name Organic Virgin Castor Oil by the company Olvea and under the name Pharmaceutical Castor Oil E.P by the company Olvea;

[0075] - camellia oil (INCI name: Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil), for example the oil marketed under the name Camellia Oil by the company Yokozeki;

[0076] - cottonseed oil (INCI name: Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil), for example the oil marketed under the name Lipex 109 S™ by the company AarhusKarlshamn; and

[0077] - mixtures thereof.

[0078] More particularly, the vegetable hydrocarbon oil (c) is chosen from hazelnut, babassu and castor oils and mixtures thereof.

[0079] The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight of vegetable hydrocarbon oil(s) (c), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] A composition according to the invention may also comprise from 5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, and more preferentially from 20% to 50% by weight of vegetable hydrocarbon oil(s) (c), relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0081] According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises:

[0082] - from 2% to 10% by weight of saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol; - from 0.05% to 5% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (b) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate; and

[0083] - from 0.5% to 25% by weight of vegetable hydrocarbon oil(s) (c) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least one oil chosen from hazelnut, babassu, castor, camellia and cottonseed oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] Additional oil(s)

[0085] A composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional oils different from the vegetable hydrocarbon oil(s) (c) defined previously.

[0086] Thus, according to one particular variant, a composition according to the invention may contain at least one hydrocarbon-based oil different from the vegetable hydrocarbon oils.

[0087] Conversely, according to one preferred variant, a composition according to the invention does not contain any silicone oil. The term “silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and notably an Si-0 group.

[0088] According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains, in addition to at least one vegetable hydrocarbon oil (c), at least one (non-silicone) hydrocarbon oil chosen from Cs to C30 alkane oils, linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, synthetic or vegetable origin, ester oils, liquid C12 to C26 fatty alcohols, the C19-C22 fatty acids and carbonate oils in particular as detailed below, and more particularly contains at least one C10 to C20 alkane oil, an ester oil and / or a liquid C19-C22 fatty alcohol.

[0089] As hydrocarbon-based oil suitable for the invention, different from a vegetable hydrocarbon oil (c), mention may thus be made very particularly of:

[0090] - branched alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, especially Cs-Ci6 alkanes, such as Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names;

[0091] - linear alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, an undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Ci 1) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof; or else a mixture of alkanes of 15 to 19 carbon atoms (called Cl 5- 19 alkane), for example the products sold under the references Emogreen™ L15 and Emosmart LI 9 by the company Seppic;

[0092] - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, poly decenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof;

[0093] - synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

[0094] - branched Cs-Ci6 esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof;

[0095] - synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R1COOR2, in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates containing between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, (Z)-octadec-9-enyl (Z)-docos-13- enoate sold under the name Cetiol® J 600 by the company BASF, or 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by the company Stearinerie Dubois, alcohol or poly alcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters, in particular pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate (INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate); dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, citrates, such as the ester of C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid and of Ci- C<> alcohols, having the INCI name Triethyl Citrate, for example the product sold under the name Citrofol Al Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer; tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates containing 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also linear dialkyl tartrates containing between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates; - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate;

[0096] - esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, where appropriate, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) with acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; more particularly chosen from the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: bis- behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and mixtures thereof;

[0097] - fatty amides such as isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL205 from Ajinomoto;

[0098] - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and optionally unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol sold under the name Eutanol® G by the company BASF, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadec anol ;

[0099] - higher C19-C22 fatty acids;

[0100] - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis; and

[0101] - mixtures thereof.

[0102] Waxes

[0103] A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one wax, notably a wax of plant origin with a melting point above 25°C.

[0104] For the purposes of the invention, these waxes are to be distinguished from the saturated fatty alcohols (a) described above.

[0105] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid / liquid reversible change of state.

[0106] For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3:1999.

[0107] The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. The measuring protocol is as follows: a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

[0108] As waxes of plant origin with a melting point above 25 °C that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:

[0109] - carnauba wax;

[0110] - candelilla wax, in particular the commercial reference Candelilla Wax SP 75 G from the company Strahl & Pitsch;

[0111] - lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins, oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof;

[0112] - rice bran wax;

[0113] - ouricury wax;

[0114] - esparto grass wax;

[0115] - cork fibre wax;

[0116] - sugar cane wax;

[0117] - Japan wax;

[0118] - sumac wax;

[0119] - montan wax;

[0120] - orange wax, in particular the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen;

[0121] - laurel wax;

[0122] - sunflower wax;

[0123] - lemon wax;

[0124] - olive wax;

[0125] - berry wax; - beeswax, in particular the product sold under the name White Beeswax SP 453P by the company Strahl & Pitsch or Cerabeil Lor by the company Baerlocher;

[0126] - buckwheat wax, in particular the product sold by the company Codif;

[0127] - waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with C12 to Cis fatty alcohols, in particular those sold by the company Sophim in the Phytowax® range (12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57);

[0128] - partially hydrogenated wax esters of jojoba oil;

[0129] - hydrogenated jojoba oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated jojoba oil), in particular sold by the company Desert Whale under the name Jojoba Wax Flakes;

[0130] - isomerized jojoba oil, in particular the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the trade name Iso- Jojoba™ 500;

[0131] - fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, in particular the mixture of three waxes jojoba esters & Helianthus annuus seed wax & Acacia decurrens extract and polyglyceryl, in particular the product sold under the name Hydracire S® or Acticire® by the company Gattefosse;

[0132] - hydrogenated glycerol esters, in particular the product sold under the name Cegesoft® HF 52 by the company Cognis (BASF), a mixture of hydrogenated rapeseed and palm oils, or the product sold under the name Softisan® 100 Cremer by the company Oleo;

[0133] - partially hydrogenated olive oil, in particular the compound sold under the name Beurrolive by the company Soliance;

[0134] - hydrogenated sunflower oil;

[0135] - hydrogenated castor oil;

[0136] - hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, in particular Thixinr® from Rheox;

[0137] - hydrogenated coconut kernel oil;

[0138] - hydrogenated palm oil;

[0139] - hydrogenated coconut oil;

[0140] - hydrogenated cocoglycerides;

[0141] - the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol;

[0142] - and / or mixtures thereof.

[0143] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least hydrogenated jojoba oil.

[0144] The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and even more particularly from 0.1% to 2% by weight of wax(es), notably of wax(es) of plant origin, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] Oily phase

[0146] As emerges from the foregoing, the composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase.

[0147] The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range, for example, from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 35% by weight, better still from 5% to 30% by weight, and even better still from 6% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0148] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 8% by weight of an oily phase formed from one or more non-silicone oils. In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone oil in an amount of greater than or equal to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range, for example, from 9% to 50% by weight and preferably from 10% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] This amount of oily phase takes into account the content of hydrophobic ingredients required according to the invention and as defined previously.

[0150] In addition to the ingredients required according to the invention and detailed above, the oily phase may comprise one or more auxiliary fatty substances notably chosen from waxes, pasty compounds and lipophilic polymers.

[0151] Aqueous phase

[0152] As emerges from the foregoing, the composition according to the invention also comprises an aqueous phase. This aqueous phase comprises at least water optionally as a mixture with one or more water-soluble solvents.

[0153] The amount of aqueous phase may range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 65% to 97% by weight, and more preferentially from 70% to 95%, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of water may represent all or some of the aqueous phase and it is generally at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase contains at least one polyol.

[0154] For the purposes of the invention, the term “polyol” means:

[0155] - a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least two hydroxyl functions; or

[0156] - a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced with an oxygen atom and which comprises at least two hydroxyl functions, for instance polyethylene glycols (PEGs) containing from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units.

[0157] Preferably, the polyol(s) bear a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain. Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12 and better still from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0158] The polyol(s) may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3- propanediol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol and panthenol and mixtures thereof.

[0159] According to one embodiment, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, and in particular are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially glycerol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0160] Preferably, a polyol that is suitable for use in the invention is chosen from glycerol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0161] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of greater than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight, and even more preferentially greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0162] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in an amount of greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, and even more preferentially from 5% to 35% by weight, better still from 10% to 30% by weight, and even better still from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] Cosmetic active agents and adjuvants

[0164] The compositions according to the present invention may, of course, contain one or more active agents and adjuvants notably chosen from cosmetic active agents, sunscreens, dyes, nacres, pigments, fragrances, preservatives, pH adjusters, film-forming agents, etc. Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds and / or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

[0165] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active agent notably chosen from:

[0166] - vitamins and derivatives thereof, notably esters thereof, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and esters thereof (such as tocopheryl acetate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and derivatives thereof, panthenol, niacinamide or vitamin B3 having the INCI name Niacinamide or Niacinamide PC, for example sold under the name Niacinamide USP by the company Western Drugs or DSM Nutritional Products;

[0167] - known anti-ageing active agents, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and notably sodium hyaluronate, retinol and derivatives thereof, salicylic acid derivatives and in particular 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid (capryloylsalicylic acid), caffeine, adenosine, C-P-D-xylopyranoside- 2-hydroxypropane, the sodium salt of (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid, rhamnose, the compound having the INCI name GRIFOLA FRONDOSA FRUITING BODY EXTRACT, for example sold under the name Eterniskin™ ES 9881 by the company BASF Beauty Care Solutions;

[0168] - sunscreens; and

[0169] - mixtures thereof. A composition according to the invention may notably comprise from 0.0001% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30%, more preferentially from 0.01% to 20% and better still from 0.01% to 15% by weight of active agent(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone compounds. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “free of silicone compounds” refers to a composition according to the invention which comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially is free of silicone compounds.

[0171] Preferentially, a composition according to the invention is free of silicone compounds.

[0172] The term “silicone compounds” (also called silicones) means any silicone compounds that are liable to be used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields, i.e. inorganic compounds formed at least from a mixture of silicon and oxygen, notably including silicone oils, silicone surfactants, dimethylsiloxane polymers, volatile or functionalized silicones, silicone elastomers, silicone resins, phenyl silicones or amino silicones.

[0173] Cosmetic composition

[0174] The composition used according to the invention may be in any presentation form normally used in the cosmetics field.

[0175] It may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a gel, a white or coloured cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum or a paste.

[0176] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are not solid.

[0177] In particular, the compositions according to the invention are not solid and are not in stick form.

[0178] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are in a non-solid presentation form, ranging from a serum texture to a creamy texture which can be stored in a jar.

[0179] Advantageously, the viscosity of a composition according to the invention ranges from 100 cP (centipoises), corresponding to 0.1 Pa.s (Pascal. second) (internal measurement, spindle 2, 21UD - fluid milk type) to 20040 cP, corresponding to 20.04 Pa.s (internal measurement = 85UD, spindle 4 - thick cream type) measured at 25°C.

[0180] The viscosity of a composition according to the invention may be measured by any method known to those skilled in the art, and in particular by applying a conventional method. For example, the measurement may be performed at 25 °C using a Contraves TV, Rheomat RM 180 or Rheomat RM 100 Plus viscometer, equipped for example with a spindle rotating at 200 rpm. A person skilled in the art may choose the spindle used to measure the viscosity, for example from spindles Ml, M2 or M4, according to his or her general knowledge, so as to be able to perform the measurement.

[0181] In particular, the composition according to the invention is intended for application to the skin. Said skin may be the skin of the face and / or of the body, in particular of the face and / or of the neck and / or of the hands.

[0182] The composition according to the invention may comprise any constituents usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0183] In particular, the composition is a “leave-on” composition. In other words, such a composition is notably not intended to be rinsed off after application. As such, it is thus different from a cleansing and / or makeup-removing composition most particularly designed to be diluted at the time of use and / or rinsed off after use to be removed from the skin surface to which it has been applied.

[0184] Uses and processes

[0185] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined previously in the cosmetics field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or make-up of the skin of the body or of the face, or for haircare.

[0186] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a process for cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in which a composition as defined in the present invention is applied to the keratin material.

[0187] In particular, the process according to the invention is free of a washing step, whether or not immediately subsequent to the step of applying said composition.

[0188] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic. The cosmetic use or process of the invention is performed by topically administering a composition according to the invention. Topical administration consists of the external application of cosmetic composition to the skin according to the usual application techniques. Generally, this application may be made directly with the finger, or using a woven or non-woven support on which an adjusted amount of said composition has been deposited beforehand.

[0189] Throughout the description, including the claims, the terms “between ... and ...”, and “ranging from ... to ...” should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.

[0190] The examples that follow illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope thereof. In the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the amounts of the ingredients present in the compositions are given as weight percentages of starting material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0191] Examples

[0192] MATERIALS AND METHODS

[0193] Starting materials

[0194] In the examples below, the compounds are identified by their INCI name:

[0195] Cetearyl alcohol is marketed under the name Cetostearyl Alcohol 50 / 50 by the company Industria Quimica del Centro;

[0196] SODIUM METHYL STEARYL TAURATE is marketed under the name NIKKOL SMT by the company Nikko;

[0197] Octyldodecanol is marketed under the name Eutanol® G by the company BASF;

[0198] Ricinus Communis Seed Oil is marketed under the name Crystal® O by the company Vertellus, under the name Lipovol™ CO by the company Vantage Specialty Chemicals, under the name Organic Virgin Castor Oil by the company Olvea and under the name Pharmaceutical Castor Oil E.P by the company Olvea;

[0199] Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil is marketed under the name Cropure™ Babassu-SS-(LK) by the company Croda;

[0200] Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil is marketed under the name Camellia Oil by the company Yokozeki;

[0201] Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil is marketed under the name Lipex 109 S™ by the company AarhusKarlshamn; Corylus Avellana Seed Oil is marketed under the name Huile Vierge de Noisette - Corylol by the company Bertin;

[0202] Oleyl erucate is marketed under the name Cetiol® J 600 by the company BASF;

[0203] Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil is a product marketed under the name Jojoba Wax Flakes by the company Desert Whale (Vantage Spec. Chem.);

[0204] C15-19 Alkane is a product marketed under the name Emogreen™ L15 by the company Seppic;

[0205] Xanthan gum is marketed under the name Keltrol® CG by the company CP Kelco; and Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer is marketed under the name Aristoflex® A VC by the company Clariant.

[0206] Stability measurement protocol

[0207] The compositions are tested for their stability after 24 h at 25°C and where appropriate after two months of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C.

[0208] The properties evaluated are:

[0209] - the pH of the composition, measured using a pH-meter;

[0210] - the viscosity of the composition, measured with a viscometer, for example a Lamy Rheology Rheomat RM 100 Plus viscometer (equipped with a thermostatic bath), according to the CID-012-02 method, notably for 10 min;

[0211] - the appearance of the composition, in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by observation of the composition under an optical microscope in non-polarized light, between slide and coverslip, at xlO magnification;

[0212] - the colour and odour of the composition; and

[0213] - macroscopic destabilization of the composition, which may be manifested in the appearance of creaming, coalescence, sedimentation and / or flocculation, the formation of a film at the surface, and / or mottling, etc.

[0214] Evaluation of the abovementioned properties is always performed at 25 °C, regardless of whether or not the compositions to be tested have been exposed to prolonged storage conditions and / or at temperatures other than 25°C.

[0215] A composition is considered to remain stable when its properties, after two months of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C, remain close to those characterized at 24 h at 25°C. In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, with no signs of destabilization and with no significant change in pH, viscosity, colour or odour, then it is considered to be stable.

[0216] Protocol for evaluating the soapiness

[0217] Technical effects relating to sensory properties during and after application of the compositions, notably with regard to the phenomenon of soapiness, were demonstrated via the following protocol performed by ten evaluators:

[0218] - application of a defined amount of a composition, corresponding to the size of a walnut, onto one half of the back of the hand;

[0219] - spreading of the composition evenly over the half-back of the hand in a circular manner;

[0220] - visual evaluation of the soapiness when the composition is applied, and two minutes after application, by the presence of a white film on the back of the hand;

[0221] - assignment of a score by the evaluator for each composition, on a scale from 0 to 5, with “0” meaning that there is no soapiness and “5” meaning very substantial soapiness; and

[0222] - calculation of the mean score obtained for each composition.

[0223] A composition with a mean score below the value of 2 is considered as significantly less soapy than a composition with a mean score of greater than 2.

[0224] Example 1 - Preparation of compositions according to the invention and comparative compositions

[0225] Five compositions according to the invention (Il to 15) and one composition outside the invention (Cl) were prepared according to the preparation protocol described hereinbelow, with the nature of the ingredients and their respective amounts reported in Table 1. The contents are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0226] Process for preparing the compositions

[0227] In a tank, the components of phase A at the bottom of the tank are heated to 70°C with stirring (paddle speed: 60 rpm; turbine speed: 0 rpm). At 70°C, phase A is turbomixed by starting the turbine (turbine speed: 3500 rpm) for 10 minutes.

[0228] The components of phase B are separately heated to 72°C with standard stirring. The mixture obtained is added to phase A with stirring (paddle speed: 60 rpm and turbine speed: 8000 rpm). The mixture obtained is then stirred for 10 minutes. The components of phase C are added to this mixture and the resulting mixture is cooled to 40°C. The components of phase D are added at 40°C with stirring, and the mixture is cooled to 30°C with stirring and under vacuum. The components of phases E and then F are added at 30°C with stirring, and a final homogenization phase is then performed down to a temperature of 25 °C, with stirring and under vacuum.

[0229] [Table 1]

[0230]

[0231] Examination of the six compositions at 24 h and 25°C is as follows (Table 2): [Table 2]

[0232] The compositions are thus satisfactory at 24 h and 25°C in terms of properties, notably in terms of appearance, colour, odour, viscosity, pH and microscopic features.

[0233] Characterization of the compositions in terms of soapiness

[0234] The soapiness was characterized (Table 3) during application and after application for compositions II to 15 according to the invention and composition Cl outside the invention, following the evaluation protocol described above.

[0235] [Table 3]

[0236] It is found that compositions II to 15 according to the invention, more particularly compositions II to 13 according to the invention, have significantly lower soapiness than that exhibited by the comparative composition Cl.

[0237] Example 2 - Characterization of the stability on storage of the compositions according to the invention of Example 1

[0238] The stability of compositions II to 15 according to the invention was reassessed on conclusion of two months of storage at 4°C, 25 °C and 45 °C (Table 4).

[0239] [Table 4]

[0240] Compositions II to 15 according to the invention were found to be satisfactory at two months and 4°C, 25 °C and 45 °C in terms of properties, notably in terms of appearance, colour, odour, viscosity, pH, and microscopic features. Compositions II to 15 according to the invention thus remain stable at two months and 4°C, 25°C and 45°C, more particularly under drastic conditions at two months and 45°C.

Claims

Claims1. Composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:(a) at least one saturated C16-C22 and preferably C16-C18 fatty alcohol;(b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, and at least one sulfonate function, and mixtures thereof; and(c) at least one vegetable hydrocarbon oil with a melting temperature of less than or equal to 25°C chosen from hazelnut, babassu, castor, camellia, cottonseed, wheatgerm, rice bran, sunflower, grapeseed, maize, apricot, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, coconut, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, and muscatel rose oils, and mixtures thereof.

2. Composition according to Claim 1, wherein said vegetable hydrocarbon oil (c) is chosen from hazelnut, babassu, castor, camellia and cottonseed oils and mixtures thereof; and more particularly from hazelnut, babassu and castor oils and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 or 2, comprising from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight of vegetable hydrocarbon oil(s) (c), relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one saturated fatty alcohol (a) chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture of at least two Ci6 and Cis saturated fatty alcohols, respectively, preferably in a Ci6 fatty alcohol(s) / Ci8 fatty alcohol(s) mass ratio ranging from 20 / 80 to 80 / 20 and advantageously in a Ci6 fatty alcohol(s) / Cis fatty alcohol(s) mass ratio equal to 50 / 50.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and more preferentially from 2.5% to 7% by weight of saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a), relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said anionic surfactant (b) contains only one C16-C22 and preferably C16-C18 hydrocarbon-based chain.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from the surfactants of general formula (I):RCOY(CH2)nSO3M (I) in which- R represents a saturated linear or branched C16-C22 alkyl group;- Y represents -O- or -NR3- with R3 representing a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl group;- M is chosen from the group formed by a hydrogen atom, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal cations, ammonium salts and organic amines;- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3; and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said anionic surfactant (b) is at least sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (b), relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a fatty alcohol(s) (a) / anionic surfactant(s) (b) mass ratio ranging from 10:1 to 6:4, preferably from 19:2 to 7:3, and even more preferentially from 9:1 to 7:2.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising:- from 2% to 10% by weight of saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol;- from 0.05% to 5% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (b) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate; and- from 0.5% to 25% by weight of vegetable hydrocarbon oil(s) (c) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least one oil chosen from hazelnut, babassu, castor, camellia and cottonseed oils, and mixtures thereof.

13. Process for cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in which a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims is applied to the keratin material.

14. Use of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 12, in the cosmetics field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or make-up of the skin, of the body or of the face, or for the care of the hair.

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