Method for treating human perspiration, and associated composition
An aqueous composition combining magnesium chloride, salicylic acid, and alpha-hydroxy acid ester addresses the limitations of existing antiperspirant compositions by providing effective deodorancy and antiperspirancy while being skin-friendly and stable, thus overcoming formulation challenges and ensuring no clothing marks.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2024/087227
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-22
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-18
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-26
AI Technical Summary
Existing antiperspirant compositions, particularly those containing aluminium and/or zirconium chlorohydrates, face challenges such as formulation difficulties at high concentrations, limited efficacy when used alone, and the risk of leaving marks on clothing. Additionally, there is a need for a composition that is well-tolerated by the skin, easy to formulate, and stable on storage.
An aqueous composition comprising magnesium chloride (MgCl), salicylic acid or a derivative thereof, and at least one alpha-hydroxy acid ester, optionally including dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4) and xanthan gum, which provides a cosmetically acceptable medium that is easy to formulate and stable, while offering deodorant, antiperspirant, and anti-white marks efficacy.
The composition achieves a satisfactory deodorant and antiperspirant effect, is well-tolerated by the skin, and does not stain clothing, with improved stability and ease of formulation compared to existing solutions.
Smart Images

Figure IMGF000006_0001 
Figure IMGF000027_0001 
Figure IMGF000030_0001
Abstract
Description
[0001] DESCRIPTION
[0002] TITLE: Method for treating human perspiration, and associated composition
[0003] The present invention relates to a cosmetic method for treating human perspiration and optionally body odours resulting from perspiration, and to an associated cosmetic composition.
[0004] The armpits and also certain other parts of the body are generally the site of much discomfort that may arise directly or indirectly from perspiration. This perspiration often leads to unpleasant and disagreeable sensations that are mainly due to the presence of sweat resulting from perspiration, which may, in certain cases, make the skin clammy and clothing wet, especially in the region of the armpits or of the back, thus leaving visible marks. Moreover, the presence of sweat can give rise to the production of body odours, which are generally unpleasant. Such discomfort should not be disregarded, even in the case of moderate perspiration.
[0005] In the cosmetics field, it is thus well known to use, in topical application, deodorant products containing substances that have the effect of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odour resulting from the decomposition of human sweat and overcoming the problems mentioned above. These products are generally available in the form of roll-ons, sticks, aerosols or sprays.
[0006] Antiperspirant compositions are also available on the market, which generally comprise aluminium and / or zirconium chlorohydrates. These substances make it possible to reduce the flow of sweat by forming a plug in the sweat duct.
[0007] However, the use of these substances at high concentrations in order to obtain good efficacy leads to formulation difficulties. Furthermore, it has been observed that the antiperspirant effectiveness of these substances is limited when they are used alone. This means that these substances need to be applied to the skin on several occasions in order to obtain a satisfactory effective antiperspirant effect.
[0008] Finally, these antiperspirant substances may also leave marks during their application, which has the consequence of staining the clothing. To overcome all of the drawbacks mentioned above, it has been proposed to seek other effective active substances, which are well tolerated by the skin and easy to formulate.
[0009] Among the approaches recently studied is the use of magnesium oxide (MgO) in various dosage forms: this active agent has demonstrated its deodorant efficacy, but in terms of antiperspirant efficacy, the formula remains to be improved.
[0010] Another approach is that described in WO2019 / 072831 : this application describes a cosmetic method for treating human perspiration and optionally body odours resulting from perspiration, which comprises the use of at least one cation Xn+of valency n, at least one anion Ym' of valency m and at least one modulating agent. However, not all the cations and anions described are equivalent, and the dosage form needed to be improved.
[0011] There is therefore a real need to employ, on the skin, an agent intended for the treatment of human perspiration which does not exhibit all of the disadvantages described above, that is to say which confers a satisfactory deodorant effect and satisfactory antiperspirant effect, in particular in terms of efficacy and resistance to sweat, and which is well tolerated by the skin, preferably at physiological pH, i.e. close to pH 5.5. Moreover, there is a need for such a deodorant agent intended for treating human perspiration, which can be easily formulated, is non-irritating, and which is stable on storage.
[0012] The applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that this objective could be achieved with an aqueous composition comprising magnesium chloride (MgCh), salicylic acid or a derivative thereof, and at least one alpha-hydroxy acid ester. Advantageously, the composition may further comprise dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4) and xanthan gum. The composition obtained is easy to formulate and stable, and has deodorant, antiperspirant and anti-white marks efficacy.
[0013] The present invention therefore relates to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, magnesium chloride (MgCh), salicylic acid or a derivative thereof, and at least one alpha hydroxy acid ester. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4), xanthan gum, and at least one modulating agent chosen from optionally hydroxylated monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, in free or salified form. The term “cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium” means an aqueous medium that is compatible with the skin and / or skin appendages or mucous membranes, and which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and does not cause any discomfort (such as tautness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition.
[0014] Said cosmetically acceptable medium is also a medium which leaves no marks during its application, and thus does not stain clothing.
[0015] Said cosmetically acceptable medium is aqueous, i.e. comprises an aqueous phase.
[0016] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating human perspiration and optionally body odours resulting from perspiration (hereinafter "method according to the invention"), comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the skin.
[0017] The present invention lastly relates to a cosmetic method for treating human perspiration and body odours resulting from perspiration (hereinafter "method 2 according to the invention"), which comprises:
[0018] (i) either the mixing just before use of at least one composition A and of at least one composition B, said compositions A and B being packaged separately, followed by the application of the resulting mixture to the surface of the skin;
[0019] (ii) or the application to the surface of the skin, simultaneously or sequentially, of at least one composition A and of at least one composition B which are packaged separately;
[0020] (iii) or the application to the surface of the skin of a composition comprising, in the same support, at least one composition A and at least one composition B; said composition A comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least magnesium chloride (MgCh); said composition B comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4); said composition A and / or said composition B comprising xanthan gum; said composition A and / or said composition B comprising capryloyl salicylic acid; said composition A and / or said composition B comprising at least one alpha hydroxy acid ester, preferably a citric acid ester, preferably triethyl citrate; and said composition A and / or said composition B also comprising at least one modulating agent chosen from optionally hydroxylated monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, in free or salified form.
[0021] The term "sequential" is understood to mean successive administration. The term "same support" is understood to mean that compositions A and B according to the invention are present in the same packaging, in particular a two- compartment packaging which allows the simultaneous application of compositions A and B.
[0022] Composition
[0023] The composition according to the invention comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, magnesium chloride (MgCh), dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4), xanthan gum, capryloyl salicylic acid and at least one modulating agent chosen from optionally hydroxylated monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, in free or salified form.
[0024] AQUEOUS PHASE
[0025] The composition comprises an aqueous phase (also referred to as a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium). It is especially formulated as an aqueous gel.
[0026] The aqueous phase of the composition contains water and generally other water- soluble or water-miscible solvents. The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents comprise short chain, for example C1-C4, monoalcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, for instance ethylene glycol, 1 ,2-propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether and sorbitol, preferably 1 ,2-propylene glycol.
[0027] Preferably, the composition comprises from 1% to 30% by weight of water-soluble or water-miscible solvent(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, preferably from 4% to 22% by weight.
[0028] Preferably, the composition comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 55% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight. Preferably, the composition comprises from 50% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 55% to 85% by weight, preferably from 55% to 80% by weight.
[0029] Magnesium chloride (MgCh)
[0030] Magnesium chloride (MgCh) is a water-soluble salt. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble salt" is understood to mean any salt which, after having been completely dissolved with stirring at 0.5% in a solution of water at a temperature of
[0031] 25°C, leads to a solution comprising an amount of insoluble salt of less than 0.05% by weight. Magnesium chloride (MgC ) comprises in particular the Mg2+cation.
[0032] The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase and preferably has a pH of between 2 and 6, preferably between 4 and 6. If necessary, the pH is adjusted with a cosmetically acceptable organic or mineral acid or base. Such an acid and such a base are those conventionally used in cosmetics.
[0033] Preferably, the composition comprises magnesium chloride in a content of between 1 % and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 3% and 25% by weight, preferably between 5% and 20% by weight;
[0034] Salicylic acid or a derivative thereof
[0035] The composition according to the invention comprises salicylic acid or a derivative thereof. The salicylic acid derivatives according to the invention are preferably lipophilic derivatives. A lipophilic salicylic acid derivative is understood to mean any salicylic acid derivative which is insoluble at 1% by weight in water and at 25°C.
[0036] The salicylic acid derivatives are preferably of formula (I) below:
[0037] [Chem 1] in which R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; a linear or branched unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, containing one or more double bonds that may be conjugated; an aromatic ring bonded to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; it being possible for said groups to be substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from (A) halogen atoms, (B) the trifluoromethyl group, (C) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (D) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and also the salts thereof obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.
[0038] Preferably, R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; a linear or branched unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds; it being possible for said hydrocarbon chains to be substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from (A) halogen atoms, (B) the trifluoromethyl group, (C) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (D) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and also the salts thereof obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.
[0039] Preferentially, R is a linear or branched C3-C11 alkyl group.
[0040] Among the compounds of formula (I) that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of: n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n- dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-heptyloxy-5-salicylic acid, and the corresponding salts thereof.
[0041] Preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises salicylic acid or n- octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, advantageously comprises n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.
[0042] The salts of the compounds of formula (I) may be obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base. Examples of mineral bases that may be mentioned include alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or ammonium hydroxide.
[0043] Among the organic bases, mention may be made of amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts, such as those described in the patent FR 2 607 498, are particularly advantageous.
[0044] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, from 0.01 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 0.5% by weight of salicylic acid or a derivative thereof.
[0045] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises capryloyl salicylic acid (also referred to as 2-hydroxy-5-(1-oxooctyl)benzoic acid). This compound is a deodorant active agent. In the context of the present invention, the term "deodorant active agent" is intended to mean any active agent which, by itself, has the effect of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odour resulting from the decomposition of human sweat.
[0046] Preferably, the capryloyl salicylic acid is present in the composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.05% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.08% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 1 % by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0047] Alpha-hydroxy acid ester
[0048] As their name suggests, alpha-hydroxy acid esters are esters of alpha-hydroxy acids (or a- hydroxy acids or AHAs). Within the meaning of the invention, an alpha-hydroxy acid ester is an organic carboxylic acid in which a hydroxyl group is attached to the carbon atom in the alpha position of the acid. The generic structure of these esters can be represented by formula (I) below:
[0049] (Ra) (Rb) C(OH)COORc
[0050] (I) in which Ra and Rb are independently chosen from the group constituted by H, F, Cl, I, Br, an alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group of saturated or unsaturated, isomeric or non-isomeric, linear chain or branched or cyclic form, having 1 to 29 carbon atoms, and in addition Ra and Rb may bear an OH group, CHO group, COOH group or alkoxy group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms. Rc is an alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group of saturated or unsaturated, isomeric or non-isomeric, straight-chain or branched or cyclic form, having 1 to 19 carbon atoms, and in which the ester may be present, as stereoisomer, in the D, L and DL forms when Ra and Rb are not identical, and in which, when the ester contains two or more carboxyl groups, the ester may be present in partial or total ester form.
[0051] Examples that may be mentioned include monoethyl tartrate, diethyl tartrate, monoethyl citrate, diethyl citrate and triethyl citrate.
[0052] Thus, when Ra and Rb are alkyls, they can be independently chosen from one of the groups C1-C5, C6-C10, C11-C15, C16-C20, C21-C25 and C26-C29. When Rc is alkyl, it may belong to one of the groups C1-C5, C6-C10, C11-C15 and C16-C19. In various embodiments, Ra, Rb, and Rc are independently selected from C1 to C12. Preferably, the alkyl, aralkyl and aryl groups for Ra, Rb and Rc are independently chosen from: methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl, hexadecyl, benzyl and phenyl. Non-limiting examples of alpha-hydroxy acids which can be esterified include in particular: mandelic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, hydroxycapric acid and combinations thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the alphahydroxycarboxylic acid ester is selected from citric acid triethyl ester (triethyl citrate), malic acid diethyl ester (diethyl malate), tartaric acid diethyl ester (diethyl tartrate), lactic acid ethyl ester (ethyl lactate) and mixtures thereof.
[0053] The alpha-hydroxy acid esters are advantageously chosen from: (i) hydroxy acid alkyl esters, (ii) hydroxy acid aralkyl or aryl esters, (iii) polyhydroxy acid esters, (iv) hydroxy polyacid esters, (v) polyhydroxy polyacid esters, and mixtures thereof.
[0054] Hydroxy acid alkyl esters
[0055] Examples of hydroxyacid alkyl esters include in particular: 2-hydroxyethanoic acid esters (glycolic acid esters), for example methyl glycolate, ethyl glycolate and propyl glycolate; 2- hydroxypropanoic acid esters (lactic acid esters), for example methyl lactate, ethyl lactate, propyl lactate, etc.; 2-methyl-2-hydroxypropanoic acid esters (methyllactic acid esters), for example methyl methyllactate, ethyl methyllactate and propyl methyllactate; 2- hydroxybutanoic acid esters, for example methyl alpha-hydroxybutanoate, ethyl alpha- hydroxybutanoate and propyl alpha-hydroxybutanoate; 2-hydroxypentanoic acid esters, for example methyl alpha-hydroxypentanoate, ethyl alpha-hydroxypentanoate and propyl alpha-hydroxypentanoate; 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid esters, for example methyl alphahydroxyhexanoate, ethyl alpha-hydroxyhexanoate and propyl alpha-hydroxyhexanoate; 2- hydroxyheptanoic acid esters, for example methyl alpha-hydroxyheptanoate, ethyl alpha- hydroxyheptanoate, and propyl alpha-hydroxyheptanoate; 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid esters, for example methyl alpha-hydroxyoctanoate, ethyl alpha-hydroxyoctanoate, and propyl alpha-hydroxyoctanoate; 2-hydroxynonanoic acid esters, for example methyl alphahydroxynonanoate, ethyl alpha-hydroxynonanoate and propyl alpha-hydroxynonanoate; 2- hydroxydecanoic acid esters, for example methyl alpha-hydroxydecanoate, ethyl alphahydroxydecanoate, propyl alpha-hydroxydecanoate; 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid esters, for example methyl alpha-hydroxyundecanoate, ethyl alpha-hydroxyundecanoate and propyl alpha-hydroxyundecanoate; 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid esters (alpha-hydroxylauric acid esters), for example methyl alpha-hydroxylaurate, ethyl alpha-hydroxylaurate and propyl alpha-hydroxylaurate; 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid esters (alpha-hydroxymyristic acid esters), for example methyl alpha-hydroxymyristate, ethyl alpha-hydroxymyristate, and propyl alpha-hydroxymyristate; 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid esters (alpha-hydroxypalmitic acid esters), for example methyl alpha-hydroxypalmitate, ethyl alpha-hydroxypalmitate and propyl alpha-hydroxypalmitate; 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid esters (alpha-hydroxystearic acid esters), for example methyl alpha-hydroxystearate, ethyl alpha-hydroxystearate and propyl alpha-hydroxystearate; 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid esters (esters of alphahydroxyarachidonic acid), for example methyl alpha-hydroxyarachidonate, ethyl alphahydroxyarachidonate and propyl alpha-hydroxyarachidonate; 2-hydroxytetraeicosanoic acid esters (cerebronic acid esters), for example methyl cerebronate, ethyl cerebronate and propyl cerebronate; and 2-hydroxytetraeicosenoic acid esters (alpha-hydroxynervonic acid esters), for example methyl alpha-hydroxynervonate, ethyl alpha-hydroxynervonate and propyl alpha-hydroxynervonate.
[0056] Hydroxy acid aralkyl or aryl esters
[0057] Examples of 2-hydroxycarboxylic acid aralkyl or aryl esters include in particular: 2-phenyl- 2-hydroxyethanoic acid esters (mandelic acid esters), for example methyl mandelate, ethyl mandelate and propyl mandelate; 2,2-diphenyl-2-hydroxyethanoic acid esters (benzilic acid esters), for example methyl benzilate, ethyl benzilate and propyl benzilate; 3-phenyl-2- hydroxypropanoic acid esters (phenyllactic acid esters), for example methyl phenyl lactate, ethyl phenyllactate and propyl phenyllactate; and 2-phenyl-2-methyl-2-hydroxyethanoic acid esters (atrolactic acid esters), for example methyl atrolactate, ethyl atrolactate and propyl atrolactate.
[0058] Polyhydroxy acid esters
[0059] Non-limiting examples of polyhydroxy acid esters include: 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid esters (glyceric acid esters), for example methyl glycerate, ethyl glycerate, propyl glycerate, benzyl glycerate, phenyl glycerate, etc.; 2,3,4-trihydroxybutanoic acid esters (isomers; erythronic acid esters, threonic acid esters), for example methyl erythronate, ethyl erythronate, methyl threonate and ethyl threonate; 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxypentanoic acid esters (isomers; ribonic acid esters, arabinonic acid esters, xylonic acid esters, lyxonic acid esters), for example methyl ribonate, ethyl ribonate, methyl arabinonate, ethyl arabinonate, methyl xylonate, ethyl xylonate, methyl lyxonate and ethyl lyxonate; 2, 3, 4,5,6- pentahydroxyhexanoic acid esters (isomers; allonic acid esters, altronic acid esters, gluconic acid esters, mannonic acid esters, gulonic acid esters, idonic acid esters, galactonic acid esters, talonic acid esters), for example methyl allonate, ethyl allonate, methyl altronate, ethyl altronate, methyl gluconate, ethyl gluconate, methyl mannonate, ethyl mannonate, methyl gulonate, ethyl gulonate, methyl idonate, ethyl idonate, methyl galactonate, ethyl galactonate, methyl talonate and ethyl talonate; 2, 3, 4, 5,6,7- hexahydroxyheptanoic acid esters (isomers; glucoheptonic acid esters, galactoheptonic acid esters, etc.), for example methyl glucoheptonate, ethyl glucoheptonate, methyl galactoheptonate and ethyl galactoheptonate; glyceruronic acid esters, for example methyl glyceruronate, ethyl glyceruronate and propyl glyceruronate; erythruronic acid esters, for example methyl erythruronate, ethyl erythruronate, and propyl erythruronate; threuronic acid esters, for example methyl threuronate, ethyl threuronate, and propyl threuronate; riburonic acid esters, for example methyl riburonate, ethyl riburonate, and propyl riburonate; arabinuronic acid esters, for example methyl arabinuronate, ethyl arabinuronate, and propyl arabinuronate; xyluronic acid esters, for example methyl xyluronate, ethyl xyluronate, and propyl xyluronate; lyxuronic acid esters, for example methyl lyxuronate, ethyl lyxuronate, and propyl lyxuronate; alluronic acid esters, for example methyl alluronate, ethyl alluronate, and propyl alluronate; altruronic acid esters, for example methyl altruronate, ethyl altruronate, and propyl altruronate; glucuronic acid esters, for example methyl glucuronate, ethyl glucuronate and propyl glucuronate; mannuronic acid esters, for example methyl mannuronate, ethyl mannuronate and propyl mannuronate; guluronic acid esters, for example methyl guluronate, ethyl guluronate, and propyl guluronate; iduronic acid esters, for example methyl iduronate, ethyl iduronate, and propyl iduronate; galacturonic acid esters, for example methyl galacturonate, ethyl galacturonate and propyl galacturonate; and taluronic acid esters, for example methyl taluronate, ethyl taluronate and propyl taluronate.
[0060] Hydroxy polyacid esters
[0061] Examples of hydroxypolyacid esters include in particular: 2-hydroxypropane-1 , 3-dioic acid esters (tartronic acid esters), for example methyl tartronate, ethyl tartronate and propyl tartronate; 2-hydroxybutane-1 , 4-dioic acid esters (malic acid esters), for example monomethyl malate, dimethyl malate, monoethyl malate, diethyl malate, monopropyl malate and dipropyl malate; 2, 3-dihydroxybutane-1 , 4-dioic acid esters (tartaric acid esters), for example monomethyl tartrate, dimethyl tartrate, monoethyl tartrate, diethyl tartrate, monopropyl tartrate and dipropyl tartrate; and 3-hydroxy-3-carboxypentane-1 , 5-dioic acid esters (citric acid esters), for example monomethyl citrate, dimethyl citrate, trimethyl citrate, monoethyl citrate, diethyl citrate, triethyl citrate, monopropyl citrate, dipropyl citrate and tripropyl citrate, or else tributyl citrate.
[0062] Polyhydroxy polyacid esters
[0063] Examples of polyhydroxy polyacid esters include in particular: esters of 2, 3,4,5- tetrahydroxyhexane-1 , 6-dioic acid (and isomers thereof; esters of saccharic acid or of glucaric acid, esters of mucic acid or of galactaric acid), for example monomethyl glucarate, dimethyl glucarate, monoethyl glucarate, monopropyl glucarate, dipropyl glucarate, monomethyl galactarate, dimethyl galactarate, monoethyl galactarate, diethyl galactarate, and dipropyl galactarate. Preferably the alpha-hydroxy acid ester(s) is (are) selected from lactic acid esters, methyllactic acid esters, tartaric acid esters, citric acid esters, glycolic acid esters, malic acid esters, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from monoethyl tartrate, diethyl tartrate, monoethyl citrate, diethyl citrate, triethyl citrate, diethyl malate, ethyl lactate, and mixtures thereof.
[0064] The weight content of alpha-hydroxy acid ester(s), relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention, is advantageously within the range from 0.1 % to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 50%, preferably from 1 % to 20%, and even more preferentially from 1 % to 15%, better still from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0065] Dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4)
[0066] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention also comprises dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4). This dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4) is also a water- soluble salt. The dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4) comprises in particular the anion HPO42’.
[0067] Preferably, the composition comprises dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4) in a content of between 1 % and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 3% and 20% by weight, preferably between 5% and 15% by weight.
[0068] The weight ratio of magnesium chloride to dipotassium phosphate preferably ranges from 3:1 to 1 :1 , preferably from 2:1 to 1 :1 , and more preferentially from 1.5:1 to 1 :1.
[0069] Modulating agent
[0070] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one modulating agent chosen from optionally hydroxylated monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, in free or salified form.
[0071] Preferably, the polycarboxylic acids are chosen from optionally hydroxylated dicarboxylic and tricarboxylic acids. Such hydroxylated carboxylic acids are also referred to as hydroxy acids.
[0072] Preferably, the modulating agent is chosen from propionic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, itaconic acid and mixtures thereof, in free or salified form. Preferably, the modulating agent is chosen from optionally hydroxylated tricarboxylic acids, preferably from hydroxylated tricarboxylic acids.
[0073] The optionally hydroxylated monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids are present in the composition in free form or in salified form.
[0074] When they are present in salified form, they may be present in the form of an alkali metal salt or alkaline-earth metal salt, preferably in the form of a sodium or potassium salt.
[0075] Preferably, the modulating agent is a mixture of an optionally hydroxylated tricarboxylic acid in free form and an optionally hydroxylated tricarboxylic acid in salified form.
[0076] Preferably, the modulating agent is a mixture of a hydroxylated tricarboxylic acid in free form and a hydroxylated tricarboxylic acid in salified form.
[0077] Preferably, the modulating agent is a mixture of citric acid and sodium citrate.
[0078] Preferably, the modulating agent is present in the composition in a content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 1 % and 4% by weight.
[0079] Anionic thickener
[0080] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one anionic thickener, preferably xanthan gum.
[0081] Preferably, the anionic thickener is chosen from natural anionic gums, carrageenans, pectins, starch phosphates and modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers. The natural anionic gums are in particular xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan and gellan gum.
[0082] Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure is constituted of a main chain of P(1 ,4)-linked p-D-glucoses, similar to cellulose. One glucose molecule in two bears a trisaccharide side chain composed of an a-D-mannose, a p-D-glucuronic acid and a terminal p-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. The charged pyruvic acids and glucuronic acids are ionizable, and are thus responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge down to a pH equal to 1).
[0083] Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1 000 000 and 50 000 000.
[0084] Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane by Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name Novaxan by ADM, and under the names Kelzan and Keltrol by CP-Kelco.
[0085] The anionic thickener can also be a xanthan derivative, of dehydroxanthan type.
[0086] Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolysaccharide based on oligosaccharide units composed of 4 monosaccharides (tetrasaccharide). D-glucose, L-rhamnose and D- glucuronic acid in 2:1 :1 proportions are present in gellan gum in the form of monomer elements.
[0087] It is sold, for example, under the name Kelcogel CG LA by CP Kelco.
[0088] Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the Gigartinaceae, Hypnaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyidaceae families. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units linked alternately by a(1 ,3) and (3(1 ,4) bonds. They are highly sulfated (20-50%) polysaccharides and the a-D-galactopyranosyl residues can be in 3,6-anhydro form. Depending on the number and position of sulfate-ester groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenans are distinguished, namely: kappa-carrageenans, which bear one sulfate-ester group, iota-carrageenans, which bear two sulfate-ester groups, and lambda-carrageenans, which bear three sulfate- ester groups. Carrageenans are composed essentially of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and / or calcium salts and of polysaccharide sulfate esters.
[0089] The carrageenans are notably sold by the company Seppic under the name Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the names Carragel®, Carralact® and Carrasol®, by the company Cargill under the names Satiagel and Satiagum, and by the company CP-Kelco under the names Genulacta®, Genugel® and Genuvisco®.
[0090] Pectins are linear polymers of a-D-galacturonic acid (at least 65%) linked in positions 1 and 4 with a certain proportion of carboxylic groups esterified with a methanol group. About 20% of the sugars constituting the pectin molecule are neutral sugars (L-rhamnose, D-glucose, D-galactose, L-arabinose, D-xylose). L-Rhamnose residues are found in all pectins, incorporated into the main chain in positions 1 ,2. Uronic acid molecules bear carboxyl functions. This function gives pectins the capacity for exchanging ions, when they are in -COO' form. The anionic thickener can also be a starch phosphate. Monostarch phosphates (of the type St-O-PO-(OX)2), distarch phosphates (of the type St-O-PO-(OX)-O-St) or even tristarch phosphates (of the type St-O-PO-(O-St)2) or mixtures thereof may especially be obtained by crosslinking the starch with phosphorus compounds. St denotes starch, and X particularly denotes alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline-earth metals (for example calcium or magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts, for instance those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, or ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline. In particular, the starch phosphate is hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, marketed under the name of Structure XL by Nouryon.
[0091] The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may be copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from a,p-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or esters thereof, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b) including a hydrophobic group.
[0092] The term "copolymers" means both copolymers obtained from two types of monomer and those obtained from more than two types of monomer, such as terpolymers obtained from three types of monomer.
[0093] Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may also be made of sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia SP® containing 90% solids and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL® as an inverse emulsion containing about 60% solids, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates that are in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example the product sold under the name Luvigel® EM by the company BASF.
[0094] The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers can also be chosen from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers. For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "(meth)acrylic" is understood to mean "acrylic or methacrylic". Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol 910, 934, 940, 941 , 934 P, 980, 981 , 2984, 5984 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, or by 3V-Sigma under the name Synthalen® K, Synthalen® L or Synthalen® M. Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may in particular be made of Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) sold by the company Lubrizol. Preferably, the anionic thickener according to the invention is xanthan gum.
[0095] The anionic thickener, preferably xanthan gum, is present in the composition in an amount of between 0.1 % and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight, preferably, between 0.8% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0096] Preservatives and other additives
[0097] The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one preservative and / or at least one additive.
[0098] Among the preservatives, mention may in particular be made of phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least phenoxyethanol.
[0099] The additive may be any standard additive in the cosmetics field, such as, for example, a fragrance or a filler.
[0100] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: at least 55% by weight of water; magnesium chloride (MgCh) in a content of between 1% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 3% and 25% by weight, preferably between 5% and 20% by weight; dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4) in a content of between 5% and 20%, preferably between 6% and 15% by weight, preferably between 7% and 12% by weight; between 0.05% and 5% by weight ofcapryloyl salicylic acid, preferably between 0.08% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 1 % by weight; from 0.05% to 50% by weight of citric acid ester, preferably from 0.1 % to 20%, preferably from 0.5% to 10%, better still from 1 % to 5%, preferably triethyl citrate;optionally at least one preservative, preferably phenoxyethanol; between 0.01 % and 5% by weight of citric acid, preferably between 0.05% and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 3%, or even between 1 % and 3% by weight; between 0.05% and 5% by weight of sodium citrate, preferably between 0.1 % and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 2% by weight; and between 0 and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 2% by weight, preferably between 0.7% and 1.5% by weight of xanthan gum. APPLICATION METHOD
[0101] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating human perspiration and optionally body odours resulting from perspiration (hereinafter "method according to the invention"), comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the skin.
[0102] The present invention lastly relates to a cosmetic method for treating human perspiration and optionally body odours resulting from perspiration (hereinafter "method 2 according to the invention"), which comprises:
[0103] (i) either the mixing just before use of at least one composition A and of at least one composition B, said compositions A and B being packaged separately, followed by the application of the resulting mixture to the surface of the skin;
[0104] (ii) or the application to the surface of the skin, simultaneously or sequentially, of at least one composition A and of at least one composition B which are packaged separately;
[0105] (iii) or the application to the surface of the skin of a composition comprising, in the same support, at least one composition A and at least one composition B; said composition A comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least magnesium chloride (MgCh); said composition B comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least dipotassium phosphate (K2HPO4); said composition A and / or said composition B comprising at least one anionic thickener, preferably chosen from natural anionic gums, preferably xanthan gum; said composition A and / or said composition B comprising salicylic acid or a derivative thereof, preferably capryloyl salicylic acid; and said composition A comprising at least one alpha hydroxy acid ester, preferably a citric acid ester, preferably triethyl citrate; said composition A and / or said composition B also comprising at least one modulating agent chosen from optionally hydroxylated monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, in free or salified form.
[0106] In order to obtain an antiperspirant effect on the skin, according to a first variant of method 2 according to the invention (embodiment (i)), composition A and composition B are packaged separately and are mixed just before use (extemporaneous mixing), then the mixture thus obtained is applied to the surface of the skin to be treated. According to a second variant of method 2 according to the invention (embodiment (ii)), composition A and composition B are packaged separately and applied simultaneously or sequentially to the surface of the skin to be treated. According to this variant, when compositions A and B are applied sequentially, the time interval separating the application of composition A from the application of B may vary from 1 second to 24 hours, more preferentially from 1 second to 1 hour and even more preferentially from 1 second to 1 minute.
[0107] According to a third variant of method 2 according to the invention (embodiment (iii)), a composition comprising composition A and composition B in the same support is applied directly to the surface of the skin. In this embodiment (iii), compositions A and B may, for example, be packaged in a device comprising at least two compartments respectively containing composition A and composition B, such as a twin tube, a two-compartment pump-action bottle, an aerosol device comprising two compartments which may comprise one or more outlet orifices (single nozzle ortwin nozzle), a device provided with a perforated wall, such as a grille, comprising two compartments; a device comprising two compartments each equipped with a ball applicator (multiball roll-on); or a double stick.
[0108] Preferably, compositions A and B are applied simultaneously.
[0109] Preferably, the invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration, and optionally of body odours associated with human perspiration, comprising the application to the surface of the skin, in particular to the surface of the armpits, of an effective amount of composition A and an effective amount of composition B.
[0110] The application time of the composition A and / or B to the surface of the skin may range from 0.5 to 10 seconds and preferably from 1 to 5 seconds. Compositions A and B may be applied several times to the surface of the skin. They can be applied several times, over a day or over several days.
[0111] Preferably, the invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration, and body odours associated with human perspiration, comprising the simultaneous application to the surface of the skin, in particular to the surface of the armpits, of composition A and composition B.
[0112] PRESENTATION FORMS
[0113] The composition according to the invention may be in any presentation form conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gels, or else in the form of aqueous (i.e. solid) sticks. Preferably, it is in the form of an aqueous gel or an aqueous (i.e. solid) stick.
[0114] By adding a fatty or oily phase, it may also be in the form of dispersions of lotion type, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or alternatively multiple emulsions (W / O / W or O / W / O), microemulsions, vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type, or wax / aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
[0115] The composition may especially be packaged in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump-action bottle; packaged in a device equipped with a perforated wall, especially a grille; packaged in a device equipped with a ball applicator ("roll-on"); packaged in the form of sticks or in the form of loose or compacted powder. In this regard, it contains the ingredients generally used in products of this type, which are well known to those skilled in the art.
[0116] According to another particular form of the invention, the composition may be solid, in particular in stick form, or in the form of loose or compacted powder.
[0117] The term "solid composition" means that the measurement of the maximum force measured by texturometry during the penetration of a probe into the sample of formulation must be at least equal to 0.25 newton, in particular at least equal to 0.30 newton and especially at least equal to 0.35 newton, assessed under precise measurement conditions as follows.
[0118] The formulations are poured hot into jars 4 cm in diameter and 3 cm deep. Cooling is performed at ambient temperature. The hardness of the formulations produced is measured after an interval of 24 hours. The jars containing the samples are characterized in texturometry using a texture analyzer, such as that sold by the company Rheo, TA-XT2, according to the following protocol: a probe of stainless-steel ball type with a diameter of 5 mm is brought into contact with the sample at a rate of 1 mm / s. The measuring system detects the interface with the sample, with a detection threshold equal to 0.005 newton. The probe penetrates 0.3 mm into the sample, at a speed of 0.1 mm / s. The measuring machine records the change in force measured in compression over time, during the penetration phase. The hardness of the sample corresponds to the average of the maximum force values detected during penetration, over at least three measurements. The composition may also comprise at least one additional deodorant active agent and / or at least one additional antiperspirant active agent.
[0119] As illustrations of these additional deodorant active agents, mention may be made especially of bacteriostatic agents or bactericides that act on underarm odor microorganisms, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro- 2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3’,4’,5’-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1-(3’,4’-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4’- chlorophenyl)urea (Triclocarban) or 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol (Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts and cetylpyridinium salts; polyols such as those of glycerol type, 1 ,3-propanediol (Zemea Propanediol® sold by DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products), 1 ,2-decanediol (Symclariol® from the company Symrise); glycerol derivatives, for instance capryl ic / capric glycerides (Capmul M CM® from Abitec), glyceryl caprylate or caprate (Dermosoft GMCY® and Dermosoft GMC®, respectively from Straetmans), Polyglyceryl-2 caprate (Dermosoft DGMC® from Straetmans), biguanide derivatives, for instance polyhexamethylene biguanide salts; chlorhexidine and salts thereof; 4-phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (Symdeo MPP® from Symrise); cyclodextrins; or alum.
[0120] The additional deodorant active agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0121] As illustrations of the additional antiperspirant active agents, mention may be made especially of the antiperspirant salts or complexes of aluminium and / or of zirconium, preferably chosen from aluminium halohydrates; aluminium zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid, such as those described in patent IIS-3 792 068.
[0122] Among the aluminium salts, mention may in particular be made of aluminium chlorohydrate in activated or unactivated form, aluminium chlorohydrex, the aluminium chlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium chlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminium dichlorohydrate, the aluminium dichlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium dichlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminium sesquichlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium sesquichlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminium sulfate buffered with sodium aluminium lactate.
[0123] Among the aluminium zirconium salts, mention may be made in particular of aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate and aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate. The complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known as ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). Among these products, mention may be made of the aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrex-glycine complexes, the aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrex-glycine complexes, the aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex-glycine complexes and the aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrex-glycine complexes.
[0124] Aluminium sesquichlorohydrate is in particular sold under the trade name Reach 301® by the company SummitReheis.
[0125] Among the aluminium zirconium salts, mention may be made of the complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with an amino acid such as glycine, having the INCI name: Aluminium Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex Gly, for example the product sold under the name Reach AZP-908-SUF® by the company SummitReheis.
[0126] Use will be made more particularly of aluminium chlorohydrate in activated or unactivated form sold under the trade names Locron S FLA®, Locron P and Locron L.ZA by the company Clariant; under the trade names Microdry Aluminum Chlorohydrate®, Micro-Dry 323®, Chlorhydrol 50, Reach 103 and Reach 501 by the company SummitReheis; under the trade name Westchlor 200® by the company Westwood; under the trade name Aloxicoll PF 40® by the company Guilini Chemie; Cluron 50%® by the company Industria Quimica Del Centro; or Clorohidroxido Aluminio SO A 50%® by the company Finquimica. As other antiperspirant active agent, mention may be made of expanded perlite particles such as those obtained by the expansion process described in patent US 5 002 698.
[0127] Preferably, the composition comprises less than 5% by weight of aluminium salt, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight. Preferably, it is completely free of aluminium salt.
[0128] Throughout the description, including the claims: the expressions “of between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.
[0129] In the description and the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are percentages by weight. The percentages are thus expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (% w / w). The temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius, unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.
[0130] The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the non-limiting examples presented below. Examples
[0131] Example 1 : Compositions
[0132] The following aqueous gel formulations were prepared by mixing in water. Several solvents were evaluated in A-type gels for the purpose of solubilizing capryloyl salycilic acid in water in the presence of MgCh. Capryloyl salicylic acid (in powder form) was pre-mixed with either triethyl citrate, isopropyl myristate or dipropylene glycol. B gels are then used to evaluate the feasibility of struvite with A-type gels.
[0133] [Table 1]
[0134] Example 2: Tests of solubility, stability and struvite formation
[0135] The solubility and the stability of the A gels and then the formation of struvite from an A-type gel with a B-type gel, are evaluated. [Table 2]
[0136] Only the formulations A1 and A2 according to the invention, using an alpha-hydroxy acid ester (triethyl citrate) are both: solubilized, stable, and allow the formation of struvite after mixing with a B-type gel, this mechanism of struvite formation contributes in situ towards reducing the flow of sweat in the sweat duct.
[0137] Formulations A1 and A2 are therefore according to the invention, while formulations A3*, A4* and A5* are comparative (no alpha-hydroxy acid ester, such as triethyl citrate).
[0138] Example 3: Evaluation of the antiacterial performance
[0139] [Table 3]
[0140] The evaluation of the antimicrobial properties of the formulations G1*, G2*, and G2+TEC of Example 3 was carried out according to the following protocol: In a suitable culture medium, the biocidal effect of the formulations is evaluated on the strains of interest after 2 h, 6 h and 24 h of contact in comparison with a placebo (i.e. medium without formulation). At each contact time, the logarithmic reduction in the number of viable microorganisms is measured.
[0141] The "underarm odour" model strain is:
[0142] Corynebacterium freneyi Cl P 52.16 (ex Corynebacterium xerosis)
[0143] This strain is placed in contact with the test formulation in a culture medium in the following proportions:
[0144] - 10% of the inoculum at 108microorganisms / ml
[0145] - 10% of the test formulation, and
[0146] - 80% of culture medium (trypticase soy broth).
[0147] In parallel, a growth control, in which the formulation is replaced with a diluent, is prepared under the same conditions.
[0148] The samples are placed in an incubator at a temperature of 35°C (optimum growth temperature for the strain) with continuous stirring during the test.
[0149] After 2, 6 and 24 hours of contact, the number of vivable microorganisms remaining in the mixture is evaluated.
[0150] The results are expressed as a logarithm of the number of microorganisms per millilitre of mixture.
[0151] The result obtained with the test formulation is compared to the results of the growth control and the difference is expressed as a number for the Log difference at T = 24 hours.
[0152] The count (Log CFU / ml) for the control at 24 h is greater than 8 (approximately 8.5).
[0153] The count (Log CFU / ml) for G1* at 24 h is approximately 5.5.
[0154] The count (Log CFU / ml) for G2* from 2 h is approximately 2.3 (= detection threshold).
[0155] The count (Log CFU / ml) for G2+TEC from 2 h is approximately 1 .3.
[0156] By comparing the G2+TEC formulation and the G2 formulation, it appears that the antimicrobial activity of G2 is significantly improved by the addition of TEC. With the G2+TEC formulation according to the invention, in less than 2 hours all bacteria are killed.
[0157] The G2+TEC formulation according to the invention thus has a very good antimicrobial activity.
[0158] Example 4: Evaluation of the deodorant performance
[0159] The evaluation of the deodorant properties of the formulations of Example 4 is carried out according to the following protocol: METHODOLOGY
[0160] Panel: 18 panellists trained for objective evaluation. Performance verified for repeatability, discrimination and consistency
[0161] Volunteers: 18 volunteers having armpits with a strong underarm odour
[0162] Application: 7 days of multiple (4) application wash - Random product application
[0163] Amount applied per day: 0.4 g ± 0.05 roll-on & stick
[0164] 1.2 g ± 0.05 aerosol
[0165] Evaluation: intensity of the unpleasant odour, description of the unpleasant odour and intensity of the fragrance.
[0166] At TO, T4 and T24h after the 4th application. Sequential monadic testing.
[0167] The results show the following values:
[0168] The gel formulations below were prepared by mixing in water: The formulation Ex4 is according to the invention, while the formulations Cp1 to Cp3 are comparative.
[0169] [Table 4]
[0170] The composition of Ex4 according to the invention exhibits the lowest intensity of malodour measured at 24 h (MOT24 = 4.02), and thus has an anti-odour performance that is significantly better than:
[0171] - that of Cp3 containing no TEC (MOT24 = 4.71 ),
[0172] - that of Cp2 containing no capryloyl salicylic acid (MOT24 = 4.80),
[0173] - that of Cp1 containing neither capryloyl salicylic acid nor TEC (MOT24 = 5.19). The composition of Ex4 according to the invention also has an anti-odour performance that is significantly better than that of a commercial product comprising 7% aluminium salts (MOT24 = 4.20), tested according to the same protocol (commercial reference of the product: SANEX Dermo Tolerance pH Balance 24h Antiperspirant).
[0174] Example 5: Evaluation of antiperspirant efficacy
[0175] The gel formulations A2 and B2 below were prepared by mixing in water:
[0176] [Table 5]
[0177] OBJECTIVE
[0178] To evaluate the level of antiperspirant efficacy of Ex4 compositions (A2 gel + B2 gel) at 24 h and 48 h.
[0179] PROTOCOL
[0180] Panel:
[0181] 28 subjects recruited (15 women, 13 men)
[0182] Methodology:
[0183] Gravimetric: Baseline, at D4, 24 h and 48 h
[0184] Wash period: 21 days without antiperspirant / neutral soap provided by L'Oreal Measurement conditions:
[0185] Sweating in a sauna at 38°C and a relative humidity of 30% to 40%
[0186] Sweating time: 1 h 20 mins (warm-up period: 40 minutes, then two 20-minute collection periods).
[0187] 2 armpits treated
[0188] 4 controlled applications: 1 per day for 4 days
[0189] Total amount applied (centred on the consumer): 0.4 ± 0.05 g
[0190] Operating mode: two-step
[0191] Applying formulation A2 with a finger stall, evenly spreading over the armpit hair area, then immediately applying formulation B2 in the same way. Drying time in sitting position for 15 min.
[0192] Gravimetric evaluation of the amount of sweat at the baseline, then at D4, 24 h & 48 h.
[0193] The same study was carried out with the comparative compositions Cp3 without TEC.
[0194] RESULTS
[0195] Antiperspirant efficacy at 24 h and 48 h according to 2 types of calculations
[0196] The calculation is based on the ratios (Z) according to the FDA method and estimation of the relative difference:
[0197] [Math 1] with:
[0198] PC = weight of sweat at baseline for untreated (NT) armpit
[0199] PT = weight of sweat at baseline for armpit obtained by mixing "Reference" formulations
[0200] C = weight of sweat at TX for untreated armpit
[0201] T = weight of sweat at TX for armpit obtained by mixing "Reference" formulations
[0202] Estimate of the relative difference in %:
[0203] [Math 2]
[0204] C -T
[0205] Relative reduction (in %) — — - * 100 = (1 -exp(mean of the difference))* 00
[0206] C
[0207] C = weight of sweat at TX for untreated armpit
[0208] T = weight of sweat at TX for armpit obtained by mixing "Reference" formulations The mixture of "Reference" formulations is obtained by mixing 2 aqueous formulations A and B respectively comprising MgCh and K2HPO4.
[0209] Effectiveness scale:
[0210] • Very effective: % reduction > 20% and above: 50% of the panel has a % reduction of greater than 20%
[0211] • Moderately effective: 10% < % reduction < 20%
[0212] • Slightly effective: 0% < % reduction < 10%
[0213] [Table 6]
[0214] The gravimetric test demonstrates that the composition of the invention Ex4 exhibits antiperspirant efficacy at 24 h (-15.4%) and at 48 h (-12.3%). The antiperspirant efficacy of Ex4 is significantly greater than that of Cp3, especially at 48 h.
[0215] Example 6: Evaluation of the anti-white marks effect
[0216] Protocol:
[0217] Objective: To evaluate the staining of an area treated with a composition according to the invention, in particular to evaluate the anti-marks effect of composition Ex4 (see Table 4) with respect to an untreated area NT, after T30min and T7h.
[0218] Panel:
[0219] 24 women
[0220] Methodology:
[0221] Single application
[0222] Amount applied: 0.2 g ± 0.05 g (per product)
[0223] Wear a T-shirt for 7 hours (in real life)
[0224] Baseline performed at TO: Images + image analysis of the white mark area, on the T-shirt At T30min of wearing the T-shirt: image acquisition (8 cm*12 cm = 96cm2) At T7h after wearing the T-shirt: Scoring the colour intensity of the white mark on a 10-point scale
[0225] Efficacy criterion: white color intensity score < 7
[0226] Product tested: composition Ex4 (composition defined above in Table 4).
[0227] Result of the anti-white marks test:
[0228] [Table 7]
[0229] After 30 minutes and then after 7 hours, the intensity score of the white marks remains less than 7 for the composition Ex 4 according to the invention. The composition of the invention therefore has a good anti-white marks efficacy.
[0230] The composition according to the invention has a better anti-white marks efficacy than most products containing at least 10% ACH or aluminium salts.
[0231] Ultimately, the specific combination of ingredients in the composition according to the invention has an overall effectiveness since it not only makes it possible to optimize the solubility and stability of sparingly soluble ingredients, such as capryloyl salicylic acid in the presence of MgCh, but also improves the deodorant efficacy and even the antiperspirant efficacy, which was quite unexpected from the ingredients (notably triethyl citrate) which, on their own and taken separately, a priori have no antiperspirant effect.
Claims
CLAIMS1. Composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium:(a) magnesium chloride,(b) salicylic acid or a derivative thereof, and(c) at least one alpha hydroxy acid ester.
2. Composition according to Claim 1 , characterized in that it comprises (a) magnesium chloride in a content of between 1% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 3% and 25% by weight, preferably between 5% and 20% by weight.
3. Composition according to either of Claims 1 and 2, characterized in that it comprises (b) salicylic acid or a derivatives thereof in a content within the range from 0.01 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.02% to 3%, preferably from 0.05% to 2%, preferably from 0.1% to 1 %, preferably from 0.15% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising a salicylic acid derivative of formula (I):in which R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; a linear or branched unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, containing one or more double bonds that may be conjugated; an aromatic ring bonded to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; it being possible for said groups to be substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from (A) halogen atoms, (B) the trifluoromethyl group, (C) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (D) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;and also the salts thereof obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base, preferably, the salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is chosen from n-octanoyl-5- salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-dodecanoyl-5- salicylic acid; n-heptyloxy-5-salicylic acid and the corresponding salts thereof; preferably the composition comprises salicylic acid or n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, advantageously comprises n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.
5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises (c) one (or more) alpha hydroxy acid ester(s) in a content within the range from 0.1 % to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 50%, preferably from 1% to 20%, and even more preferentially from 1% to 15%, better still from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which one or more alpha-hydroxy acid ester(s) are selected from: hydroxy acid alkyl esters, hydroxy acid aralkyl or aryl esters, polyhydroxy acid esters, hydroxy polyacid esters, polyhydroxy polyacid esters, and mixtures thereof; preferably are selected from lactic acid esters, methyllactic acid esters, tartaric acid esters, citric acid esters, glycolic acid esters, malic acid esters, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from monoethyl tartrate, diethyl tartrate, monoethyl citrate, diethyl citrate, triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, diethyl malate, ethyl lactate, and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises dipotassium phosphate, preferably in a content of between 1% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 3% and 20% by weight, preferably between 5% and 15% by weight.
8. Composition according to Claim 7, characterized in that the weight ratio of the magnesium chloride to dipotassium phosphate is within the range from 3:1 to 1 :1 , preferably from 2:1 to 1 :1 , and more preferentially from 1.5:1 to 1 :1.
9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one modulating agent chosen from optionally hydroxylated monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, in free or salified form; the modulating agent preferably being chosen from propionic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, itaconic acid and mixtures thereof, in free or salified form; preferably the modulating agent is a mixture of a hydroxylated tricarboxylic acid in free formand a hydroxylated tricarboxylic acid in salified form; preferably, the modulating agent is a mixture of citric acid and sodium citrate; preferably, the modulating agent is present in the composition in a content of between 0.1 % and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 1 % and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one anionic thickener; preferably chosen from natural anionic gums, carrageenans, pectins, starch phosphates and modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers; preferably, from xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan and gellan gum; preferably xanthan gum; preferably, the anionic thickener is present in the composition in a content of between 0.1 % and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.8% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 55% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight; preferably, the composition comprises from 50% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 55% to 85% by weight, preferably from 55% to 80% by weight.
12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: at least 55% by weight of water; magnesium chloride in a content of between 1% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 3% and 25% by weight, preferably between 5% and 20% by weight; dipotassium phosphate in a content of between 5% and 20%, preferably between 6% and 15% by weight, preferably between 7% and 12% by weight; between 0.05% and 5% by weight of capryloyl salicylic acid, preferably between 0.08% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 1 % by weight; from 0.05% to 50% by weight of citric acid ester, preferably from 0.1 % to 20%, preferably from 0.5% to 10%, better still from 1% to 5%, preferably of triethyl citrate; between 0.01 % and 5% by weight of citric acid, preferably between 0.05% and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 3%, or even between 1 % and 3% by weight;between 0.05% and 5% by weight of sodium citrate, preferably between 0.1 % and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 2% by weight; and optionally at least one preservative, preferably phenoxyethanol; between 0 and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 2% by weight, preferably between 0.7% and 1.5% by weight of xanthan gum.
13. Cosmetic method for treating human perspiration and optionally body odours resulting from perspiration, comprising the application of a composition according to one of the preceding claims to the skin.
14. Cosmetic method for treating human perspiration and body odours resulting from perspiration, which comprises:(i) either the mixing just before use of at least one composition A and of at least one composition B, said compositions A and B being packaged separately, followed by the application of the resulting mixture to the surface of the skin;(ii) or the application to the surface of the skin, simultaneously or sequentially, of at least one composition A and of at least one composition B which are packaged separately;(iii) or the application to the surface of the skin of a composition comprising, in the same support, at least one composition A and at least one composition B; said composition A comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least magnesium chloride; said composition B comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least dipotassium phosphate; said composition A and / or said composition B comprising at least one anionic thickener, preferably chosen from natural anionic gums, preferably xanthan gum; said composition A and / or said composition B comprising salicylic acid or a derivative thereof, preferably capryloyl salicylic acid; and said composition A comprising at least one alpha hydroxy acid ester, preferably a citric acid ester, preferably triethyl citrate; said composition A and / or said composition B also comprising at least one modulating agent chosen from optionally hydroxylated monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, in free or salified form.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
new LIPOPHILIC QUATERNARY AMMONIUM SALICYLATES, THEIR USE IN COSMETICS AND DERMOPHARMACY
FR2607498A1
Dry powder aerosol antiperspirant composition incorporating dry powder antiperspirant active complex and process for its preparation
US3792068A
Sulfur- and nitrogen-containing lubricant additives
US5002698A
Process for treating human transpiration using a cation and an anion in presence of a modulator
WO2019072831A1
High efficacy antiperspirant stick containing low levels of non-volatile organic
US20040197281A1