Use of a composition comprising an oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid and a vegetable protein hydrolysate for treating hair ends

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of a composition comprising at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid and at least one vegetable protein hydrolysate, for treating hair ends, more particularly for smoothing hair ends.

Description

USE OF A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OLIGOMER OF A HYDROXYLATED FATTY ACID TRIGLYCERIDE AND A SATURATED DIACID AND A VEGETABLE PROTEIN HYDROLYSATE FOR TREATING HAIR ENDSTechnical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to the use of a composition (C) comprising at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid and at least one vegetable protein hydrolysate, for treating hair ends, more particularly for smoothing hair ends.Context of the invention

[0002] Hair is a keratin substance that is repeatedly subjected to various stresses associated with environmental factors (such as exposure to UV rays and pollution) and treatments such as bleaching, colouring, permanent waving or thermal straightening / smoothing. Hair is also regularly exposed to mechanical stress, especially during haircare routines (due for example to frequent brushing, or disentangling and styling operations).

[0003] The structure of hair accordingly tends to deteriorate. More specifically, cuticles are raised and hair fibres become porous, while split ends develop at the tips. In broad terms, the fibres bend and arrange themselves in a disorganized manner with respect to one another. The consequences for the texture of hair are noticeable, since it becomes difficult to comb in wet and dry conditions alike, has enhanced susceptibility to electrostatic phenomena, is difficult to manage when styling, and has a coarse appearance, particularly at the ends. All in all, the hair, and especially its ends, becomes fragile, dehydrated and breaks more easily.

[0004] There is a need to provide compositions that make it possible to overcome all these drawbacks and that are in particular capable of reinforcing keratin fibres by repairing the cuticles and by sealing split ends where necessary. In particular, there is a need to restore the axial cohesion of the ends in order to realign the keratin fibres, and to restore a smoother feel and visual appearance to the tips of damaged hair while ensuring good cosmetic properties for the hair as a whole, particularly in terms of manageability, smooth feel and smooth visual appearance, softening at the time of application (also referred to as hair transformation), disentangling, suppleness, individualization of the hair and coating.

[0005] These objectives can be achieved in full or in part through the use of the compositions of the invention.Summary of the invention

[0006] The present invention accordingly provides for the use of a composition (C) comprising:(i) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid; and(ii) at least one vegetable protein hydrolysate,for treating hair ends, more particularly for smoothing hair ends.

[0007] The use of the composition (C) of the invention allows hair ends to be well managed and smoothed.Detailed description of the invention

[0008] Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.

[0009] In the text hereinbelow, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0010] The limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions “between ... and ...”, “ranging from ... to ...” and “comprising from ... to ...”.

[0011] The expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and may be substituted therewith; the expression “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from” and may be substituted therewith, and implies that the limits are included.

[0012] The term “keratin fibres” is understood as meaning fibres of human or animal origin, such as head hair, body hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, keratin fibres are preferably human keratin fibres, more preferably the hair on the head.

[0013] “Transformation” or “transformation on application” is understood as meaning the softening of the keratin fibre on contact with a composition. More particularly, the composition (C) according to the invention is applied to wet hair. The property of transformation is therefore evaluated on wet hair.Oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid

[0014] The composition (C) according to the present invention comprises at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid. If two or more oligomers of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid are used, they may be identical or different.

[0015] The term “oligomer” here denotes a polymer in which a relatively small number of monomers are linked together. It is preferable that the number of monomers in the oligomer is 100 or less, more preferably 50 or less, and even more preferably 20 or less.

[0016] The oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid can be obtained by reacting a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride such as hydrogenated castor oil (INCI name) and a saturated diacid. The reaction may be an esterification.

[0017] In accordance with the present invention, the diacid is said to be saturated when the hydrocarbon chain from which it is constituted does not include an unsaturated group, i.e. a carbon-carbon double bond. The term “diacid” here denotes a hydrocarbon compound containing two -COOH carboxyl functions. The composition according to the invention may comprise a single diacid or a mixture of more than one different diacid.

[0018] Likewise, for the purposes of the present invention, the oligomer may be a mixture of more than one different oligomer.

[0019] Saturated diacids that may be used include sebacic acid (or decane-1,10-dioic acid), malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, octadecamethylenedicarboxylic acid and eicosadicarboxylic acid.

[0020] More particularly, the oligomer may be an oligoester in which the monomers are represented by the following formulas for the triglyceride (A) and diacid (B): in which:

[0021] R1represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene group containing, for example, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably represents the group -(CH2)l-, where “l” may vary from 1 to 20, and preferably from 3 to 16, better still from 6 to 12,

[0022] R2represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon atoms and preferably represents the group -(CH2)m-CH3, where “m” may vary from 0 to 11, and preferably from 2 to 11, better still from 3 to 9, and

[0023] X1represents a linear or branched alkylene group and preferably represents the linear alkylene group -(CH2)x-, where “x” is an integer ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 3 to 15.

[0024] According to one preferred embodiment, l = 10 and m = 5 and the group

[0025] in formula (A) above represents the alkyl radical of 12-hydroxystearic acid (the major component of hydrogenated castor oil).

[0026] When the diacid is sebacic acid, X1represents the linear alkylene group -(CH2)x-, where “x” is equal to 8.

[0027] The average degree of polymerization of the oligomer may vary between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 10.

[0028] Thus, the oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid may be represented by the following formula (C): (C)in which

[0029] each of R1, R2and X1is as defined above, and

[0030] n denotes an average degree of polymerization between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 10.

[0031] It is preferable that the following group:

[0032] in the formula (C) above represents the alkyl radical of 12-hydroxystearic acid and that X1represents -(CH2)8-.

[0033] It is preferable that the oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid is an oligoester of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, i.e. a hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid.

[0034] Preference is given to using a compound having the INCI name “hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer”.

[0035] Such compounds are sold in particular by Croda under the trade names Cromadol CWS-5, Cromadol CWS-10 and Crodabond CSA.

[0036] The oligomer(s) of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] The oligomer(s) of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total amount of equal to or less than 10% by weight, preferably equal to or less than 5% by weight, and more preferably equal to or less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] The oligomer(s) of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Vegetable protein hydrolysate

[0039] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more vegetable protein hydrolysates.

[0040] The term “protein hydrolysate”, as used herein, denotes the product of the hydrolysis of homogeneous or heterogeneous proteins, or respective parts, derivatives or combinations thereof, obtained from sources of vegetable origin including, but not limited to, plants and respective parts thereof or seeds.

[0041] Preferably, the protein(s) is / are selected from pea protein, soy protein, wheat protein, maize protein, rice protein, sweet almond protein, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] More preferably, the vegetable protein hydrolysate is a soy protein hydrolysate or a rice protein hydrolysate or a mixture of both, even more preferably a soy protein hydrolysate.

[0043] The total amount of vegetable protein hydrolysate(s) advantageously ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.08% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.Fatty amines

[0044] The composition (C) according to the present invention may optionally comprise one or more fatty amines.

[0045] It is preferable that the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amines.

[0046] A “fatty amine” is understood as meaning a compound containing at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof, and containing at least one C6-C30hydrocarbon chain.

[0047] Preferably, the fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0048] The fatty amines that can be used in the context of the invention may be fatty amidoamines, tertiary fatty amines or a mixture of these compounds.

[0049] An “amidoamine” is understood as meaning a compound containing at least one amide function and at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof.

[0050] A “fatty amidoamine” is understood as meaning an amidoamine containing at least one C6-C30hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition (which does not exclude the fact that they may quaternize in situ).

[0051] Fatty amidoamines include fatty amidoamines in which the C6-C30fatty chain may be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0052] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0053] Amidoamines that may be used in the context of the invention include amidoamines of formula (D1): RCONHR"N(R')2(D1)

[0054] in which:- R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (-OH) groups; preferably a linear or branched C5-C29, better still C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a C5-C29, better still C7-C23, alkenyl radical; preferably a linear or branched C7-C23radical that is saturated or includes a double unsaturation (C=C);

[0055] - R" represents a divalent, preferably linear, hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0056] - R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably a methyl or ethyl radical.

[0057] Preferably, in formula (D1):

[0058] - R' are identical and represent a methyl group;

[0059] - R" represents a linear divalent hydrocarbon radical having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0060] - R represents a linear or branched C7-C23hydrocarbon radical that is saturated or includes an unsaturation (C=C).

[0061] The amidoamines of formula (D1) may be selected, alone or as a mixture, from the following compounds:

[0062] oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine and brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0063] Fatty amidoamines, when present, are preferably selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0064] Fatty amines also include tertiary fatty amines, and in particular tertiary fatty amines of formula (D2): RN(R')2in which:

[0065] - R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, alkyl radical; preferably a linear or branched C6-C30, better still C8-C24, alkyl radical; or a linear or branched C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, alkenyl radical; and

[0066] - R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably a methyl radical.

[0067] Fatty amines corresponding to formula (D2) include the following compounds: dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine and mixtures thereof.

[0068] The fatty amines according to the invention are preferably fatty amidoamines.

[0069] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amidoamines corresponding to formula (D1) as defined above, and more particularly selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof. Even more particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0070] When present in the composition according to the invention, fatty amine(s) are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] When present in the composition according to the invention, fatty amidoamine(s) of formula (D1) as defined above are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] More particularly, fatty amidoamine(s) selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] Even more preferably, when the composition according to the invention contains stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, this is present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Fatty alcohols

[0074] The composition (C) according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more fatty alcohols.

[0075] A “fatty alcohol” is understood as meaning a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic alcohol containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and just one hydroxyl group and preferably having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols according to the invention are therefore fatty monools.

[0076] The fatty alcohols according to the invention may be selected from solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0077] A “solid” is understood as meaning a compound that is solid at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013 × 105 Pa). Such a compound preferably has a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s at 25°C for a shear rate of 1 s-1.

[0078] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are insoluble in water, i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight at 25°C and 1 atm.

[0079] The solid fatty alcohols according to the invention are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0080] More preferably, the solid fatty alcohols according to the invention are selected from linear saturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0081] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols according to the invention are selected from fatty alcohols having a melting point above 30°C, preferably above 35°C.

[0082] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol(s) is / are selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol, and even more preferably cetyl alcohol.

[0083] A “liquid” is understood as meaning a compound that is liquid at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013 × 105 Pa).

[0084] The liquid fatty alcohols according to the invention are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0085] The liquid fatty alcohols that can be used may be selected, alone or as a mixture, from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-cetanol and mixtures thereof.

[0086] The total amount of solid or liquid fatty alcohol(s) advantageously ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0087] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty alcohols, even more preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol, better still the solid fatty alcohol is cetyl alcohol.

[0088] The total amount of solid fatty alcohol(s) advantageously ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0089] More particularly, when present in the composition according to the invention, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol, are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.Fatty esters

[0090] The composition (C) according to the present invention may optionally comprise one or more fatty esters, that is to say one or more esters of fatty carboxylic acid(s) and / or fatty alcohol(s). These esters may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm). They are different from the compounds described above.

[0091] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty esters.

[0092] Liquid fatty estersLiquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters include in particular esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1to C26or branched C3to C26aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear C1to C26or branched C3to C26aliphatic monools or polyols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal to 8, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0093] For esters of monools, at least either the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived may be branched.

[0094] Monoesters include dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isoamyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate and 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Among monoesters, preference is given to using fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters in which the alcohol contains at least 10 carbon atoms and the carboxylic acid contains 10 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably selected from isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; isodecyl octanoate, coco caprylate, coco caprate and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4to C22dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1to C22alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2to C26di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0097] These include in particular: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates and mixtures thereof.

[0098] As fatty esters, the composition may also comprise sugar esters and diesters of C6to C30, preferably C12to C22, fatty acids. It is recalled that a “sugar” is understood as meaning oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds having a plurality of alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0099] Examples of suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0100] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6to C30, preferably C12to C22, fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may include one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0101] The esters according to this variant may also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0102] Examples of such esters include oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof such as in particular mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate esters.

[0103] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters, and of mono- or dioleates, mono- or distearates, mono- or dibehenates, mono- or dioleopalmitates, mono- or dilinoleates, mono- or dilinolenates and mono- or dioleostearates in particular, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose and mixtures thereof.

[0104] An example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0105] Solid fatty estersSolid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used include esters derived from a C9-C26fatty carboxylic acid and / or a C9-C26fatty alcohol.

[0106] These solid fatty esters are more particularly esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and a linear or branched, saturated monool containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0107] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26di-, tri-, tetra-or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0108] These include in particular octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, C9-C26alkyl stearates (in particular myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate), octyl pelargonate, C9-C26alkyl myristates (in particular cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate and stearyl myristate), diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, C9-C26alkyl palmitates (in particular myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate) and mixtures thereof. More particularly, they include the compounds having the INCI name “cetyl esters”.

[0109] In a preferred embodiment, fatty esters according to the invention are selected from liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters in which the alcohol contains at least 10 carbon atoms and the carboxylic acid contains 10 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably selected from isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; isodecyl octanoate, coco caprylate, coco caprate and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to using coco caprate, coco caprylate or mixtures thereof. Particular preference is given to the ester having the INCI name “coco caprylate / caprate”.

[0110] In another embodiment, preference is given to the esters having the INCI name “cetyl esters” and to isoamyl laurate, alone or as a mixture, more preferably as a mixture.

[0111] When they are present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the total content of fatty esters ranges preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises the ester(s) of carboxylic acid(s) and alcohol(s) containing at least 8 carbon atoms in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters in which the alcohol contains at least 10 carbon atoms and the carboxylic acid contains 10 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably selected from isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; isodecyl octanoate, coco caprylate, coco caprate and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3% to 2% by weight.

[0114] More preferably still, the composition according to the invention comprises coco caprate, coco caprylate and mixtures thereof, better still coco caprylate / caprate (INCI name), in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3% to 2% by weight.

[0115] In another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises isoamyl laurate and cetyl esters (INCI name), alone or as a mixture, more preferably as a mixture, in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3% to 2% by weight.Polyol

[0116] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more polyols.

[0117] The polyol(s) present in the composition of the invention are preferably selected from the polyols of formula (E) below: (E)in which formula (E):

[0118] - R'1, R'2, R'3and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote independently of one another a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1to C6alkyl radical or a C1to C6mono- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical,

[0119] - A denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprising from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms but no hydroxyl group, and

[0120] - m denotes 0 or 1.

[0121] The polyol(s) are preferably selected from polyols of formula (E) in which m has the value 0 and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), caprylyl glycol (octane-1,2-diol), propane-1,2,3-triol, pinacol (2,3-dimethylbutane-2,3-diol), butane-1,2,3-triol, butane-2,3-diol, glycerol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.

[0122] The polyol(s) may also be selected from polyols of formula (E), in which m is 1 and R'1, R'2, R'3and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote independently of one another a hydrogen atom or a C1to C6alkyl radical and mixtures thereof. They may advantageously be selected from polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof, and more particularly the product termed PEG-6 or PEG-8 in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, seventh edition.

[0123] The polyol(s) may also be selected from polyols of formula (E), in which m is 1 and R'1, R'2, R'3and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote independently of one another a hydrogen atom or a C1to C6alkyl radical, and in which the molecular weight is less than 200, and mixtures thereof. According to this particular embodiment, the polyol(s) are preferably selected from 3-methylpentane-1,3,5-triol, butane-1,2,4-triol, pentane-1,5-diol, 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, butane-1,3-diol, 3-methylpentane-1,5-diol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethylpropane-1,3-diol), isoprene glycol (3-methylbutane-1,3-diol), hexylene glycol (2-methylpentane-2,4-diol) and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from hexylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 3-methylpentane-1,5-diol and mixtures thereof.

[0124] Preferably, the molecular weight (MW) of said polyol(s) present in the composition of the invention is between 50 and 350, more preferably between 60 and 200 and better still between 70 and 150.

[0125] When present in the composition, the polyol(s) are preferably selected from diols, glycerol and mixtures thereof, more preferably from compounds of formula (E), in which R'1, R'2, R'3and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote independently of one another a hydrogen atom or a C1to C6alkyl radical, glycerol and mixtures thereof.

[0126] The polyol(s) are advantageously selected from glycerol, propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), caprylyl glycol (octane-1,2-diol), pinacol (2,3-dimethylbutane-2,3-diol), butane-2,3-diol, polyethylene glycols, pentane-1,5-diol, 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, butane-1,3-diol, 3-methylpentane-1,5-diol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethylpropane-1,3-diol), isoprene glycol (3-methylbutane-1,3-diol), hexylene glycol (2-methylpentane-2,4-diol), dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof. The polyol is preferably glycerol, propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof, more preferably the polyol is glycerol. The total content of polyol(s), when present in the composition, ranges preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, better still from 12% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Other ingredients

[0127] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be anhydrous.

[0128] “Anhydrous” is understood as meaning that the composition comprises not more than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably not more than 3% by weight of water, better still not more than 2% by weight of water, even better still not more than 1% water, and is preferably free of water (0%).

[0129] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition may be an aqueous composition. When it contains water, the composition according to the invention may have a water content ranging from 50% to 98% by weight, preferably ranging from 60% to 95% by weight, better still ranging from 70% to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0130] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is aqueous.

[0131] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional compounds different from the compounds described above, selected from natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators, UV-screening agents, bulking agents such as pearlescents, titanium dioxide, resins and clays, fragrances, peptizers, vitamins, acidic agents, alkaline agents, colouring materials, pearlescent agents, opacifiers, film-forming polymers, fixative polymers, solid fatty substances, antioxidants and preservatives.

[0132] A person skilled in the art will take care to select any optional additional compounds and the amount thereof such that they do not adversely affect the properties of the composition of the present invention.

[0133] These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] According to a preferred embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition employed according to the invention comprises:

[0135] (i) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, preferably hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, more particularly the compound having the INCI name “hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer”, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0136] (ii) at least one vegetable protein hydrolysate, preferably soy protein hydrolysate, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.08% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] In another preferred embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition employed according to the invention further comprises:

[0138] (iii) at least one fatty amine, preferably a fatty amidoamine, more preferably stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0139] (iv) at least one fatty alcohol, preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols, more preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or

[0140] (v) at least one fatty ester, preferably selected from coco caprylate / caprate (INCI name), isoamyl laurate, cetyl esters (INCI name) and mixtures thereof, more preferably coco caprylate / caprate (INCI name) or a mixture of isoamyl laurate and cetyl esters (INCI name), preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even better still 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even 0.3% to 2% by weight; and / or

[0141] (vi) at least one polyol, preferably glycerol, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, better still from 12% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] When the composition is aqueous, the pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 2 to 12, preferably from 2.5 to 9, more preferably from 3 to 8, better still from 3.5 to 7 and even better still from 3.5 to 5.

[0143] The pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalinizing agents or acidifying agents customarily used. Examples of alkalinizing agents include aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines and mineral or organic hydroxides. Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for example acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0144] The haircare compositions according to the invention can be, for example, conditioning shampoos, conditioners, masks, serums and leave-on haircare products.

[0145] When used in accordance with the invention, the cosmetic composition may therefore be rinsed off or left on after having been applied to hair, for example rinsed off with water, after an optional leave-on time. The composition is preferably a leave-on composition.

[0146] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be applied to dry or wet hair, preferably wet hair, that has optionally been washed with shampoo beforehand.

[0147] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition used in accordance with the invention is applied to wet hair washed with shampoo beforehand, rinsed and then optionally treated with a rinse-off product before application of the composition (C).

[0148] The application of the composition of the invention is preferably not followed by rinsing.

[0149] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention, but without being limiting in nature.EXAMPLESExample 1

[0150] The inventive composition A1 was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. The amounts indicated are expressed in % by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the formulation.

[0151] CompositionA1 (inventive)Cetyl alcohol3Hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer (INCI name)0.5Vegetable protein hydrolysate0.1Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine1.2Coco caprylate / caprate0.7Lactic acid0.3Glycerol17.5PreservativesqsFragrance0.8Waterqs 100

[0152] Composition A1 was applied to damaged hair. The treated hair was observed to have overall good cosmetic properties, particularly with regard to smoothing the ends.Example 2

[0153] Inventive formulation A and comparative formulations B and C are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tables below. The amounts indicated are expressed in % by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the formulation.

[0154] CompositionA(inventive)B(comparative)C(comparative)Stearyl alcohol2.752.752.75Cetyl esters(INCI name)0.450.450.45Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine1.41.41.4Sunflower seed oil0.60.60.6Isoamyl laurate1.21.21.2Hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer (INCI name)0.5-0.5Vegetable protein hydrolysate0.110.11-Tartaric acid0.230.230.23PreservativesqsqsqsFragrance111Waterqs 100qs 100qs 100

[0155] Application protocol:Compositions A, B and C are applied to locks of highly sensitized wet hair at a rate of 0.055 g / g of hair. The locks of hair had been washed beforehand with Elseve Total repair 5 shampoo (0.3 g / g of hair). The locks of hair are then dried with a hairdryer.

[0156] Evaluation protocol:The locks of hair are evaluated by 3 experts. The different criteria are rated from -2 to +2; 0 being the score in accordance with the invention meaning that there is no difference with the invention.

[0157] Methods for evaluating smooth visual appearance at the ends:The smoothness at the ends is evaluated visually, observing whether the ends are well ordered and styled or whether they are instead fuzzy in appearance, like when hair has an electric charge.

[0158] Results of the sensory analysis:A(inventive)B(comparative)C(comparative)Expert 10-1-1Expert 20-1.5-1Expert 30-10Mean0-1.2-0.7

[0159] For the criterion of visual appearance of the ends of dry hair, comparative compositions B and C result in lower scores than inventive composition A. Comparative compositions B and C therefore perform less well than the invention.

Claims

Use of a composition (C) comprising at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid and at least one vegetable protein hydrolysate, for treating hair ends, more particularly for smoothing hair ends.Use according to Claim 1, wherein the hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride is represented by the following formula (A):in which:- R1represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene group containing, for example, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably represents the group -(CH2)l-, where “l” may vary from 1 to 20, and preferably from 3 to 16, better still from 6 to 12,- R2represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon atoms and preferably represents the group -(CH2)m-CH3, where “m” may vary from 0 to 11, and preferably from 2 to 11, better still from 3 to 9, andthe saturated diacid is represented by the following formula (B):in which:- X1represents a linear or branched alkylene group and preferably represents the linear alkylene group -(CH2)x-, where “x” is an integer from 1 to 30 and preferably from 3 to 15.Use according to Claim 2, wherein the oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid is a hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer, more particularly the compound having the INCI name “hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer”.Use according to one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the total amount of oligomer(s) of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Use according to one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the vegetable protein hydrolysate is obtained from a protein selected from pea protein, soy protein, wheat protein, maize protein, rice protein, sweet almond protein, and mixtures thereof, more preferably a soy protein hydrolysate or a rice protein hydrolysate or a mixture of the two, better still a soy protein hydrolysate.Use according to one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the total amount of vegetable protein hydrolysate(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.08% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Use according to one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition further comprises one or more fatty amines.Use according to Claim 7, wherein the fatty amine is a fatty amidoamine, preferably selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, more preferably stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.Use according to Claim 7 or 8, wherein the total amount of fatty amine ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Use according to one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition further comprises one or more fatty alcohols, preferably a solid fatty alcohol, more preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol, and better still cetyl alcohol.Use according to Claim 10, wherein the total amount of fatty alcohol(s) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Use according to one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the composition further comprises one or more fatty esters, preferably selected from coco caprylate / caprate (INCI name), isoamyl laurate, cetyl esters (INCI name) and mixtures thereof, preferably from coco caprylate / caprate (INCI name) and a mixture of isoamyl laurate and cetyl esters (INCI name).Use according to Claim 12, wherein the total amount of fatty ester(s) ranges from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even better still 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Use according to one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the composition further comprises one or more polyol(s) preferably selected from glycerol, propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, more preferably glycerol.Use according to Claim 14, wherein the total amount of polyol(s) ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, better still from 12% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

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