Composition comprising a fatty amine, a fatty ester, a polyol and a fatty alcohol with a polyol / fatty amine weight ratio greater than or equal to 5

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising a fatty amine, a fatty ester, a polyol and a fatty alcohol, it being understood that the weight ratio between the polyol(s) and the fatty amine(s) is greater than or equal to 5. The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for treating keratin fibres, and more particularly for repairing and smoothing the hair. The invention also relates to a process for repairing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying the composition according to the invention to said fibres.

Description

COMPOSITION COMPRISING A FATTY AMINE, A FATTY ESTER, A POLYOL AND A FATTY ALCOHOL WITH A POLYOL / FATTY AMINE WEIGHT RATIO GREATER THAN OR EQUAL TO 5Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising a fatty amine, a fatty ester, a polyol and a fatty alcohol with a polyol / fatty amine weight ratio greater than or equal to 5 and a total amount of polyol(s) ranging from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More particularly, the composition is a cosmetic composition intended for treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair, and even more particularly for repairing and smoothing the hair. The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying the composition according to the invention to said fibres.Context of the invention

[0002] The hair is a keratin substance that is repeatedly subjected to various stresses associated with environmental factors (such as exposure to UV rays and pollution) and treatments such as bleaching, colouring, permanent waving or thermal straightening / smoothing. The hair is also regularly exposed to mechanical stress, especially during haircare routines (due for example to frequent brushing, or disentangling and styling operations).

[0003] The structure of hair accordingly tends to deteriorate. More specifically, cuticles are raised and hair fibres become porous, while split ends develop at the tips. In broad terms, the fibres bend and arrange themselves in a disorganized manner with respect to one another. The consequences for the texture of hair are noticeable, since it becomes difficult to comb in wet and dry conditions alike, has enhanced susceptibility to electrostatic phenomena, is difficult to manage when styling, and has a coarse appearance, particularly at the ends. All in all, the hair, and especially its ends, becomes fragile, dehydrated and breaks more easily.

[0004] There is a need to provide compositions that make it possible to overcome all these drawbacks and that are in particular capable of reinforcing keratin fibres by repairing the cuticles and by sealing split ends where necessary. In particular, there is a need to restore the axial cohesion of the ends in order to allow the keratin fibres to be realigned (manageability), and to restore to damaged hair a smoother touch and appearance, suppleness, and to facilitate the disentangling and individualization of the strands (also referred to as loose strands), this being in a durable way.

[0005] In addition, there is a need to provide a composition that is easily applied to wet hair with a texture capable of giving the good suppleness from application (also called hair transformation) and a good coating quality. The composition must also be stable during storage in order to obtain this particular texture at the time of application, while relying on a majority of renewable and biodegradable ingredients. In addition, the composition must leave the hair clean and not lead to excessive transfer to the fingers after treatment.

[0006] These objectives can be achieved in full or in part through the compositions of the invention.Summary of the invention

[0007] In a first aspect, a subject of the present invention is a composition (C), in particular cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0008] (i) at least one fatty amine;

[0009] (ii) at least one fatty ester;

[0010] (iii) at least one polyol; and

[0011] (iv) at least one fatty alcohol,

[0012] it being understood that the weight ratio between the polyol(s) and the fatty amine(s) is greater than or equal to 5 and the total amount of polyol(s) ranges from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] Preferentially, the compositions according to the invention are free of silicones, cationic polymers and cationic surfactants other than fatty amines.

[0014] In a second aspect, a further subject of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of a composition as defined above. More particularly, the process makes it possible to repair keratin fibres. Even more particularly, the process allows the repair and smoothing of the hair, facilitates disentangling thereof and allows good looseness of the hair strands. Advantageously, it is observed that the cosmetic properties conferred by the compositions according to the invention are durable in that they persist after a shampoo wash.

[0015] In a third aspect, a subject of the present invention is the use of a composition (C) as defined above for treating keratin fibres,you and more particularly for repairing and smoothing the hair.Detailed description of the invention

[0016] Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.

[0017] In the text hereinbelow, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0018] The limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions “between ... and ...”, “ranging from ... to ...” and “comprising from ... to ...”.

[0019] The expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and may be substituted therewith; the expression “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from” and may be substituted therewith, and implies that the limits are included.

[0020] The term “keratin fibres” is understood as meaning fibres of human or animal origin, such as head hair, body hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, keratin fibres are preferably human keratin fibres, more preferably the hair on the head.

[0021] The term "durable", when used to characterize a cosmetic effect in the context of the present invention, means that the effect persists after one or more shampoo washes.

[0022] “Transformation” or “transformation on application” is understood as meaning the softening of the keratin fibre on contact with a composition. More particularly, the composition (C) according to the invention is applied to wet hair. The property of transformation is therefore evaluated on wet hair.Fatty amines

[0023] The composition (C) according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty amine.

[0024] A “fatty amine” is understood as meaning a compound containing at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof, and containing at least one C6-C30hydrocarbon chain.

[0025] Preferably, the fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0026] The fatty amines that can be used in the context of the invention may be fatty amidoamines, tertiary fatty amines or a mixture of these compounds.

[0027] An “amidoamine” is understood as meaning a compound containing at least one amide function and at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof.

[0028] A “fatty amidoamine” is understood as meaning an amidoamine containing at least one C6-C30hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition (which does not exclude the fact that they may quaternize in situ).

[0029] Fatty amidoamines include fatty amidoamines in which the C6-C30fatty chain may be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0030] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0031] Amidoamines that may be used in the context of the invention include amidoamines of formula (A1): RCONHR’’N(R’)2(A1)

[0032] in which:

[0033] - R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (-OH) groups; preferably a linear or branched C5-C29, better still C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a C5-C29, better still, C7-C23, alkenyl radical; preferentially a linear or branched C7-C23radical that is saturated or includes a double unsaturation (C=C);

[0034] - R’’ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, which is preferably linear, containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0035] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably a methyl or ethyl radical.

[0036] Preferably, in formula (A1):

[0037] - R' are identical and represent a methyl group;

[0038] - R" represents a linear divalent hydrocarbon radical having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0039] - R represents a linear or branched C7-C23hydrocarbon radical that is saturated or includes an unsaturation (C=C).

[0040] The amidoamines of formula (A1) may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the following compounds:

[0041] oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine and brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0042] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0043] Fatty amines also include tertiary fatty amines, and in particular tertiary fatty amines of formula (A2): RN(R')2

[0044] in which:

[0045] - R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, alkyl radical; preferably a linear or branched C6-C30, better still C8-C24, alkyl radical; or a linear or branched C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, alkenyl radical; and

[0046] - R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably a methyl radical.

[0047] Fatty amines corresponding to formula (A2) include the following compounds: dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine and mixtures thereof.

[0048] The fatty amines according to the invention are preferably fatty amidoamines.

[0049] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amidoamines corresponding to formula (A1) as defined above, and more particularly chosen from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof. Even more particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0050] Preferably, the total amount of amines fatty, preferentially of fatty amidoamines, of formula (A1) as defined above, ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight or even from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] More particularly, the fatty amidoamine(s) chosen from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] Even more preferably, when the composition according to the invention contains stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, this is present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Fatty esters

[0053] The composition (C) according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty esters, that is to say one or more esters of fatty carboxylic acid(s) and / or fatty alcohol(s). These esters may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm).

[0054] Liquid fatty esters

[0055] Liquid esters of fatty acid(s) and / or fatty alcohol(s) include in particular esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1to C26or branched C3to C26, aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1to C26or branched C3to C26, aliphatic monools or polyols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal to 8, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0056] For esters of monools, at least either the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived may be branched.

[0057] Monoesters include dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isoamyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate and 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, coco caprylate, coco caprate, and mixtures thereof.

[0058] Among monoesters, preference is given to using fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters in which the alcohol contains at least 10 carbon atoms and the carboxylic acid contains 10 or fewer carbon atoms, preferentially chosen from isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; isodecyl octanoate, coco caprylate, coco caprate and mixtures thereof.

[0059] Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4to C22dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C2to C26dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0060] These include in particular: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates and mixtures thereof.

[0061] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6to C30and preferably C12to C22fatty acids. It should be remembered that “sugar” is understood to mean oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0062] Mention may be made, as suitable sugars, for example, of sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and their derivatives, in particular their alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0063] Esters of sugars and of fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group constituted of esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C6to C30, preferably C12to C22, fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0064] The esters according to this variant may also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0065] These esters can be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, mixed oleate-palmitate, oleate-stearate or palmitate-stearate esters.

[0066] More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters and in particular of mono- or dioleates, mono- or distearates, mono- or dibehenates, mono- or dioleate-palmitates, mono- or dilinoleates, mono- or dilinolenates or mono- or dioleate-stearates of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0067] Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0068] Preferably, use will be made of at least one liquid fatty ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.

[0069] Solid fatty esters

[0070] Solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used include esters derived from a C9-C26fatty carboxylic acid and / or a C9-C26fatty alcohol.

[0071] These solid fatty esters are more particularly esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and a linear or branched, saturated monool containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids can optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0072] Esters of C4-C22dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26di-, tri-, tetra-or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0073] These include in particular octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, C9-C26alkyl stearates (in particular myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate), octyl pelargonate, C9-C26alkyl myristates (in particular cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate and stearyl myristate), diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, C9-C26alkyl palmitates (in particular myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate) and mixtures thereof. More particularly, they include the compounds having the INCI name “cetyl esters”.

[0074] In a preferred embodiment, fatty esters according to the invention are selected from liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters in which the alcohol contains at least 10 carbon atoms and the carboxylic acid contains 10 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably selected from isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; isodecyl octanoate, coco caprylate, coco caprate and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to using coco caprate, coco caprylate or mixtures thereof. Particular preference is given to the ester having the INCI name “coco caprylate / caprate”.

[0075] In another embodiment, esters having the INCI name “cetyl esters” and isoamyl laurate, alone or as a mixture, may be used.

[0076] In the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the total content of fatty ester(s) ranges preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5%, or even from 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises one or more ester(s) of carboxylic acid(s) and alcohol(s) containing at least 8 carbon atoms in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters in which the alcohol contains at least 10 carbon atoms and the carboxylic acid contains 10 or fewer carbon atoms, preferentially chosen from isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; isodecyl octanoate, coco caprylate, coco caprate and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even better still 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even 0.3% to 2% by weight.

[0079] Even more preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises coco caprate, coco caprylate and mixtures thereof, better still coco caprylate / caprate (INCI name), in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3% to 2% by weight.

[0080] In another alternative, when they are present in the composition according to the invention, the isoamyl laurate and the cetyl esters (INCI name), alone or as a mixture, are more preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 2% by weight.Polyol

[0081] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more polyols.

[0082] The polyol(s) present in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from the polyols of formula (B) below: (B)

[0083] in which formula (B):

[0084] - R'1, R'2, R'3and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote independently of one another a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1to C6alkyl radical or a C1to C6mono- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical,

[0085] - A denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprising from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms but no hydroxyl group, and

[0086] - m denotes 0 or 1.

[0087] The polyol(s) are preferably chosen from polyols of formula (B) in which m has the value 0, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), caprylyl glycol (octane-1,2-diol), propane-1,2,3-triol, pinacol (2,3-dimethylbutane-2,3-diol), butane-1,2,3-triol, butane-2,3-diol, glycerol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.

[0088] The polyol(s) may also be selected from polyols of formula (B), in which m is 1 and R'1, R'2, R'3and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote independently of one another a hydrogen atom or a C1to C6alkyl radical and mixtures thereof. They may advantageously be chosen from polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof, and more particularly the product called PEG-6 or PEG-8 in the CTFA publication (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Seventh Edition).

[0089] The polyol(s) may also be chosen from polyols of formula (B) in which m is 1 and R'1, R'2, R'3and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1to C6alkyl radical, and in which the molecular weight is less than 200, and mixtures thereof. According to this particular embodiment, the polyol(s) are preferably chosen from 3-methylpentane-1,3,5-triol, butane-1,2,4-triol, pentane-1,5-diol, 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, butane-1,3-diol, 3-methylpentane-1,5-diol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethylpropane-1,3-diol), isoprene glycol (3-methylbutane-1,3-diol), hexylene glycol (2-methylpentane-2,4-diol) and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from hexylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 3-methylpentane-1,5-diol and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Preferably, the molecular weight (MW) of said polyol(s) present in the composition of the invention is between 50 and 350, more preferentially between 60 and 200 and better still between 70 and 150.

[0091] Preferably, the polyol(s) are chosen from diols, glycerol and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from compounds of formula (B) in which R'1, R'2, R'3and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1to C6alkyl radical, glycerol and mixtures thereof.

[0092] The polyol(s) are advantageously chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), caprylyl glycol (octane-1,2-diol), pinacol (2,3-dimethylbutane-2,3-diol), butane-2,3-diol, polyethylene glycols, pentane-1,5-diol, 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, butane-1,3-diol, 3-methylpentane-1,5-diol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethylpropane-1,3-diol), isoprene glycol (3-methylbutane-1,3-diol), hexylene glycol (2-methylpentane-2,4-diol), dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof. The polyol is preferably glycerol, propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof, more preferentially the polyol is glycerol.

[0093] In the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the total content of the polyol(s) preferably ranges from 12% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises glycerol in a total amount ranging from 12% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Fatty alcohols

[0095] The composition (C) according to the invention also comprises one or more fatty alcohols other than the polyols described previously.

[0096] A “fatty alcohol” is understood as meaning a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic alcohol containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and just one hydroxyl group and preferably having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols according to the invention are therefore fatty monools.

[0097] The fatty alcohols according to the invention may be selected from solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0098] A “solid” is understood as meaning a compound that is solid at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013 × 105 Pa). Such a compound preferably has a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s at 25°C and a shear rate of 1 s-1.

[0099] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are insoluble in water, i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight at 25°C and 1 atm.

[0100] The solid fatty alcohols according to the invention are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0101] More preferentially, the solid fatty alcohols according to the invention are chosen from saturated linear alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0102] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols according to the invention are chosen from fatty alcohols having a melting point above 30°C, preferentially above 35°C.

[0103] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol or alcohols are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol, and even more preferentially cetyl alcohol.

[0104] A “liquid” is understood as meaning a compound that is liquid at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013 × 105 Pa).

[0105] The liquid fatty alcohols according to the invention are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0106] The liquid fatty alcohols that can be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol and 2-tetradecyl-1-cetanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0107] The total amount of solid or liquid fatty alcohol(s) advantageously ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0108] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty alcohol(s), even more preferentially chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol, better still the solid fatty alcohol is cetyl alcohol.

[0109] The total amount of solid fatty alcohol(s) advantageously ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0110] More particularly, when present in the composition according to the invention, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol, are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0111] Oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid

[0112] The composition (C) according to the present invention may optionally comprise one or more oligomer(s) of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid. If two or more oligomers of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid are used, they may be identical or different.

[0113] Preferably, the composition (C) according to the present invention comprises one or more oligomers of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid.

[0114] The term “oligomer” here denotes a polymer in which a relatively small number of monomers are linked together. It is preferable that the number of monomers in the oligomer is 100 or less, more preferably 50 or less, and even more preferably 20 or less.

[0115] The oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid can be obtained by reacting a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride such as hydrogenated castor oil (INCI name) and of a saturated diacid. The reaction may be an esterification.

[0116] According to the present invention, the diacid is said to be saturated when the hydrocarbon chain from which it is constituted does not comprise an unsaturated group, i.e. a carbon-carbon double bond or triple bond. The term “diacid” here denotes a hydrocarbon compound containing two -COOH carboxyl functions. The composition according to the invention may comprise a single diacid or a mixture of more than one different diacid.

[0117] Likewise, for the purposes of the present invention, the oligomer may be a mixture of more than one different oligomer.

[0118] Saturated diacids that may be used include sebacic acid (or decane-1,10-dioic acid), malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, octadecamethylenedicarboxylic acid and eicosadicarboxylic acid.

[0119] More particularly, the oligomer may be an oligoester in which the monomers are represented by the following triglyceride formula (C) and diacid formula (D):

[0120] in which:

[0121] R1represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene group containing, for example, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably represents the group -(CH2)l- in which “l” may vary from 1 to 20, and preferentially from 3 to 16, better still from 6 to 12,

[0122] R2represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon atoms and preferably represents the group -(CH2)m-CH3, where “m” may vary from 0 to 11, and preferentially from 2 to 11, even better still from 3 to 9, and

[0123] X1represents a linear or branched alkylene group and preferably represents the linear alkylene group -(CH2)x-, where “x” is an integer ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 3 to 15.

[0124] According to one preferred embodiment, l = 10 and m = 5 and the group

[0125] in formula (C) above represents the alkyl radical of 12-hydroxystearic acid (the major component of hydrogenated castor oil).

[0126] When the diacid is sebacic acid, X1represents the linear alkylene group -(CH2)x-, where “x” is equal to 8.

[0127] The average degree of polymerization of the oligomer may vary between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 10.

[0128] Thus, the oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid may be represented by the following formula (E): (E)

[0129] in which

[0130] each of R1, R2and X1is as defined above, and

[0131] n denotes an average degree of polymerization between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 10.

[0132] It is preferable that the following group:

[0133] in formula (E) above represents the alkyl radical of 12-hydroxystearic acid and that X1represents -(CH2)8-.

[0134] It is preferable that the oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid is an oligoester of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, i.e. a hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid.

[0135] Preference is given to using a compound having the INCI name “hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer”.

[0136] Such compounds are sold in particular by Croda under the trade names Cromadol CWS-5, Cromadol CWS-10 and Crodabond CSA.

[0137] The oligomer(s) of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] The oligomer(s) of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total amount of equal to or less than 10% by weight, preferably equal to or less than 5% by weight, and more preferably equal to or less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] The oligomer(s) of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Plant protein hydrolysate

[0140] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more plant protein hydrolysates.

[0141] The term “protein hydrolysate”, as used herein, denotes the product of the hydrolysis of homogeneous or heterogeneous proteins, or respective parts, derivatives or combinations thereof, obtained from sources of plant origin including, but not limited to, plants and respective parts thereof or seeds.

[0142] Preferably, the protein(s) is / are chosen from pea protein, soy protein, wheat protein, maize protein, rice protein, sweet almond protein, and mixtures thereof.

[0143] More preferentially, the plant protein hydrolysate is a soy protein hydrolysate or a rice protein hydrolysate or a mixture of both, even more preferentially a soy protein hydrolysate.

[0144] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more plant protein hydrolysate(s).

[0145] The total content of plant protein hydrolysate(s) advantageously ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.08% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.Cationic polymers

[0146] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are free of cationic polymers.

[0147] The term “cationic polymer” is intended to mean any non-silicone polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.Silicones

[0148] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are free of silicones.

[0149] The term "silicones" is understood to mean amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof. The non-amino silicones may be solid or liquid, volatile or non-volatile. The non-amino silicones which may can also be soluble or insoluble and can be in the form of an oil, wax, resin or gum. Silicones are notably described in detail in Walter Noll’sChemistry and Technology of Silicones(1968), Academic Press.Cationic surfactants

[0150] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are free of cationic surfactants other than fatty amidoamines.Other ingredients

[0151] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be anhydrous.

[0152] “Anhydrous” is understood as meaning that the composition comprises not more than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably not more than 3% by weight of water, better still not more than 2% by weight of water, even better still not more than 1% by weight of water, and is preferentially free of water (0%).

[0153] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition may be an aqueous composition. When it contains water, the composition according to the invention may have a water content ranging from 50% to 98% by weight, preferably ranging from 60% to 95% by weight, better still ranging from 70% to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is aqueous.

[0155] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional compounds different from the compounds described above, selected from natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators, UV-screening agents, bulking agents such as pearlescents, titanium dioxide, resins and clays, fragrances, peptizers, vitamins, acidic agents, alkaline agents, colouring materials, pearlescent agents, opacifiers, film-forming polymers, fixative polymers, solid fatty substances, antioxidants and preservatives.

[0156] A person skilled in the art will take care to select any optional additional compounds and the amount thereof such that they do not adversely affect the properties of the composition of the present invention.

[0157] These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0158] Advantageously, the weight ratio between the polyol(s) and the fatty amine(s) ranges from 5 to 30.

[0159] Preferentially, the weight ratio between the polyol(s) and the fatty amine(s) is greater than or equal to 10, better still ranges from 10 to 30, and even better still ranges from 10 to 20.

[0160] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, comprises:

[0161] (i) at least one fatty amine, preferably a fatty amidoamine, even more preferentially stearamidopropyldimethylamine, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0162] (ii) at least one fatty ester, preferably coco caprylate / caprate (INCI name), preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even better still 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even 0.3% to 2% by weight;

[0163] (iii) at least one polyol, preferably glycerol, preferably in an amount ranging from 12% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0164] (iv) at least one fatty alcohol, preferentially chosen from solid fatty alcohols, more preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, even better still cetyl alcohol, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0165] it being understood that the weight ratio between the polyol(s) and the fatty amidoamine(s) is greater than or equal to 5, preferentially greater than 10, said composition preferentially being free of cationic polymers, of silicones and of cationic surfactants other than fatty amidoamines.

[0166] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, further comprises:

[0167] (v) at least one oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid, preferably of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, more particularly the compound having the INCI name hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or

[0168] (vi) at least one plant protein hydrolysate, preferably soy protein hydrolysate, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.08% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0169] When the composition is aqueous, the pH of the composition according to the invention generally ranges from 2 to 12, preferably from 2.5 to 9, preferentially from 3 to 8, better still from 3.5 to 7 and even better still from 3.5 to 5.

[0170] The pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalinizing agents or acidifying agents customarily used. Examples of alkalinizing agents include aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines and mineral or organic hydroxides. Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for example acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0171] The haircare compositions according to the invention can be, for example, conditioning shampoos, conditioners, masks, serums and leave-on haircare products.

[0172] The cosmetic composition may be thus rinsed off or left on after having been applied to the keratin fibres, for example rinsed off with water, after an optional leave-on time. The composition is preferably a leave-on composition.

[0173] A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of a composition as defined previously.

[0174] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be applied to dry or wet keratin fibres, preferably wet keratin fibres, that have optionally been washed with shampoo beforehand.

[0175] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition is applied to wet keratin fibres, washed with shampoo beforehand, rinsed and then optionally treated with a rinse-off care product before application of the composition (C).

[0176] The application of the composition of the invention is preferentially not followed by rinsing.

[0177] The process according to the invention is in particular a hair treatment process which makes it possible to repair and smooth the hair. The hair thus treated has improved cosmetic properties in terms of manageability, smoothness to the touch and visual smoothness, softening at the time of application, disentangling, suppleness, individualization of the hair strands and coating, even more particularly in terms of disentangling, smoothness to the touch and individualization of the hair strands.

[0178] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, exhibiting a limiting nature.EXAMPLESExample 1

[0179] The composition A1 according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. The amounts indicated are expressed in % by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the formulation.

[0180] CompositionA1 according to the inventionCetyl alcohol3Hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer (INCI name)0.5Plant protein hydrolysate0.1Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine1.2Coco caprylate / caprate0.7Lactic acid0.3Glycerol17.5PreservativesqsFragrance0.8Waterqs 100

[0181] Composition A1 was applied to damaged hair. It is observed that the treated hair exhibits, overall, good cosmetic properties in terms of manageability, smoothness to the touch and visual smoothness, softening at the time of application, disentangling, suppleness, individualization of the hair strands and coating.Example 2

[0182] A formulation A according to the invention and two comparative formulations B and C are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. The amounts indicated are expressed in % by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the formulation.

[0183] CompositionA(invention)B(comparative)C (comparative)Cetyl alcohol333Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine1.21.21.2Glycerol15.68.43.6Coco caprylate / caprate0.70.70.7Hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer (INCI name)0.50.50.5Plant protein hydrolysate0.10.10.1Lactic acid0.30.30.3PreservativesqsqsqsFragrance0.80.80.8Waterqs 100qs 100qs 100Polyol / Fatty Amidoamine Ratio1373

[0184] Protocol

[0185] Formulations A, B and C are applied to locks of sensitized wet hair in a proportion of 0.055 g / g of hair. The locks of hair had been washed beforehand with an Elsève Total Repair 5 shampoo (0.3 g / g of hair), then rinsed and treated with a rinse-off care product (Elsève Total repair 5 conditioner) (0.5 g / g of hair).

[0186] The locks of wet hair are evaluated by 3 experts (sensory analysis) and scored with respect to smoothness to the touch. The locks are then dried with a hair dryer and evaluated with respect to cosmetic criteria, and in particular individualization of the hair strands. This study evaluates the cosmetic performances of formulations A, B and C obtained on day 0 (D0).

[0187] The locks of hair are then washed with Elsève Total Repair 5 shampoo (0.4 g / g of hair). The locks of hair are evaluated by 3 experts and scored with respect to disentangling, smoothness to the touch and strand looseness. The locks are then dried with a hair dryer and evaluated on cosmetic criteria, and in particular smoothness to the touch and individualization of the hair stands. This study evaluates the persistence of the cosmetic performances of formulations A, B and C after 1 shampoo wash.

[0188] The various criteria are scored from 0 to 5, 0 being associated with the poorest performance and 5 with the best performance.

[0189] Results

[0190] C (comparative)B (comparative)A(invention)MeanMeanMeanD0Smoothness to the touch on wet hair2.673.334.33Looseness on dry hair2.503.003.67

[0191] The composition A according to the invention leads to performances in terms of smoothness to the touch on wet hair and of looseness of the strands on dry hair that are higher than the comparative composition C.

[0192] C (comparative)B (comparative)A(invention)MeanMeanMeanPersistenceDisentangling(scale from 0 to 5)2.003.003.50Smoothness to the touch on wet hair0.501.501.83Looseness on wet hair1.672.172.50Smoothness to the touch on dry hair2.002.333.50Looseness on dry hair2.002.833.17

[0193] After 1 shampoo wash, the composition A according to the invention leads to scores with respect to the criteria of disentangling, smoothness to the touch and looseness which are higher than the comparative composition C.Example 3

[0194] The formulation A1 according to the invention and a comparative formulation C1 are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the following table. The amounts indicated are expressed in % by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the formulation.

[0195] A1 inventionC1 comparativeCetyl alcohol33Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine1.21.2Glycerol2430Coco caprylate / caprate0.70.7Hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer (INCI name)0.50.5Soy protein hydrolysate0.110.11Lactic acid0.280.28PreservativesqsqsFragrance0.80.8Waterqs 100qs 100Polyol / Fatty Amidoamine Ratio2025

[0196] Protocol

[0197] The formulations A1 and C1 were applied to locks of sensitized wet hair in a proportion of 0.055 g / g of hair. The locks of hair had been previously washed with shampoo (0.3 g / g of hair), then treated with a conditioner (0.5 g / g of hair).

[0198] Evaluation

[0199] The locks of hair were evaluated blind by 3 experts, on wet hair, then after drying with a hair dryer, and finally, after an additional shampoo wash to evaluate the persistence of the effects (on wet then dry hair).

[0200] The various criteria are scored on a scale ranging from 0 to 5, 0 being the lowest performance and 5 the best, except for the criterion of transfer to the fingers, for which high scores correspond to poorer performance (less clean hair).

[0201] The following acts were performed:

[0202] i) The evaluation of suppleness is tactileThe hair is taken in both hands and it is sought to fold it. An evaluation is made of the capacity of the hair to easily curve, its malleability.

[0203] ii) To evaluate the transfer to the fingers, the expert takes the lock between thumb and index finger, descends from the top of the lock to the ends and at the same time effects a gentle oscillating movement with the thumb to get a good feel for the presence of any deposit.

[0204] iii) To evaluate the ‘loose’ nature of the hair strands, the expert lifts the lock with the hands and observes how the hair falls back down. The expert observes whether the hair falls back in packets, and whether the hair strands are well individualized, and fluid.

[0205] The evaluation of the manageability is visual: the expert evaluates whether the fibres are well ordered, and styled or whether the result is more ambiguous, such as when the hair is electrically charged for example.

[0206] The results obtained are given below:On wet hair:

[0207] LOOSENESS OF THE STRANDSTRANSFER TO THE FINGERSAfter 1 shampoo washA1 inventionC1 comparativeA1 inventionC1 comparativeExpert 131.500.5Expert 231.501Expert 331.500.5Mean31.500.67Standard deviation0000.29On dry hair

[0208] TRANSFER to the fingersSUPPLENESSA1 inventionC1 comparativeA1 inventionC1 comparativeExpert 10033Expert 20132Expert 30132Mean00.6732.33Standard deviation00.5800.58

[0209] TRANSFER to the fingersAfter 1 shampoo washMANAGEABILITYAfter 1 shampoo washA1 inventionC1 comparativeA1 inventionC1 comparativeExpert 10022Expert 200.521Expert 300.521Mean00.3321.33Standard deviation00.2900.58

[0210] The composition A1 according to the invention made it possible to improve the looseness and suppleness of the hair, and leads to an absence of transfer to the fingers compared to the comparative composition C1.

[0211] After a shampoo wash, the composition A1 according to the invention leads to better manageability than the comparative composition C1 and also to an absence of transfer to the fingers.Example 4

[0212] The formulation A2 according to the invention and a comparative formulation C2 are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the following table. The amounts indicated are expressed in % by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the formulation.

[0213] CompositionA2 (invention)C2 (comparative)Cetyl alcohol33Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine1.21.2Glycerol137Coco caprylate / caprate0.70.7Hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer (INCI name)0.50.5Plant protein hydrolysate0.10.1Lactic acid0.30.3PreservativesqsqsFragrance0.80.8Waterqs 100qs 100Polyol / Fatty Amidoamine Ratio10.85.8

[0214] Protocol

[0215] The formulations A2 and C2 are applied to locks of sensitized wet hair in a proportion of 0.055 g / g of hair. The locks of hair had been washed beforehand with an Elsève Total Repair 5 shampoo (0.3 g / g of hair), then rinsed and treated with a rinse-off care product (Elsève Total repair 5 conditioner) (0.5 g / g of hair).

[0216] The locks of wet hair are evaluated by 3 experts (sensory analysis) and scored with respect to smoothness to the touch. The locks are then dried with a hair dryer and evaluated on cosmetic criteria, in particular smoothness to the touch, manageability and individualization of the hair stands. This study evaluates the cosmetic performances of the formulations A2 and C2 obtained on day 0 (D0).

[0217] The locks of hair are then washed with Elsève Total Repair 5 shampoo (0.4 g / g of hair). The locks of hair are evaluated by 3 experts and scored with respect to disentangling, smoothness to the touch and strand looseness. The locks are then dried with a hair dryer and evaluated on criteria of smoothness to the touch, suppleness, manageability and individualization of the hair strands. This study evaluates the persistence of the cosmetic performances of the formulations A2 and C2 after 1 shampoo wash.

[0218] The various criteria are scored from 0 to 5, 0 being associated with the poorest performance and 5 with the best performance.

[0219] Results

[0220] C2 (comparative)A2 (invention)MeanMeanD0Smoothness to the touch on wet hair3.333.83Smoothness to the touch on dry hair2.673.33Looseness on dry hair3.003.50Manageability on dry hair1.673.00

[0221] The composition A2 according to the invention leads to performances in terms of smoothness to the touch, looseness on dry hair and manageability on dry hair that are higher than the comparative composition C2.

[0222] C2 (comparative)A2 (invention)MeanMeanPersistenceDisentangling (scale 0 to 5)3.003.50Smoothness to the touch on wet hair1.331.67Looseness on wet hair2.002.17Smoothness to the touch on dry hair2.173.50Looseness on dry hair2.332.67Suppleness on dry hair1.672.50Manageability on dry hair1.332.67

[0223] After a shampoo wash, the composition A2 according to the invention leads to scores with respect to the criteria of disentangling, smoothness to the touch and looseness on wet hair that are higher than those obtained for the comparative composition C2. In addition, the scores obtained with respect to the criteria of smoothness to the touch, looseness, flexibility and manageability on dry hair are also higher for the composition according to the invention than for the comparative composition C2.

Claims

Composition (C) comprising:(i) at least one fatty amine;(ii) at least one fatty ester;(iii) at least one polyol; and(iv) at least one fatty alcohol,it being understood that the weight ratio between the polyol(s) and the fatty amine(s) is greater than or equal to 5 and the total amount of polyol(s) ranges from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition (C) according to Claim 1, in which the fatty amine is a fatty amidoamine, preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, more preferentially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.Composition (C) according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the total amount of fatty amine ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition (C) according to one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the fatty ester is an ester of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol such that the alcohol contains at least 10 carbon atoms and the carboxylic acid contains 10 or less carbon atoms, more preferentially coco caprylate / caprate (INCI name).Composition (C) according to one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the total amount of fatty ester(s) ranges from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even better still 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition (C) according to one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the polyol is chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, more preferentially glycerol.Composition (C) according to one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the total amount of polyol(s) ranges from 12% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition (C) according to one of Claims 1 to 7, in which the fatty alcohol is a solid fatty alcohol, preferentially chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol, and even more preferentially cetyl alcohol.Composition (C) according to one of Claims 1 to 8, in which the total amount of fatty alcohol(s) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition (C) according to one of Claims 1 to 9, in which the weight ratio between the polyol(s) and the fatty amidoamine(s) is greater than or equal to 10, preferably between 10 and 30, preferentially between 10 and 20.Composition (C) according to one of Claims 1 to 10, also comprising at least one oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid.Composition (C) according to Claim 11, in which the hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride is represented by the following formula (C):in which:- R1represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene group containing, for example, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably represents the group -(CH2)l-, where “l” may vary from 1 to 20, and preferentially from 3 to 16, even better still from 6 to 12,- R2represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon atoms and preferably represents the group -(CH2)m-CH3, where “m” may vary from 0 to 11, and preferentially from 2 to 11, even better still from 3 to 9, andthe saturated diacid is represented by the following formula (D):in which:- X1represents a linear or branched alkylene group and preferably represents the linear alkylene group -(CH2)x-, where “x” is an integer from 1 to 30 and preferably from 3 to 15.Composition (C) according to Claim 12, in which the oligomer of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid is a hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer, more particularly the compound with the INCI name "hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer".Composition (C) according to one of Claims 11 to 13, in which the total amount of oligomer(s) of a hydroxy fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated diacid ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition (C) according to one of Claims 1 to 14, further comprising at least one plant protein hydrolysate, preferentially derived from a protein chosen from pea protein, soy protein, wheat protein, maize protein, rice protein, sweet almond protein, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially a soy protein hydrolysate or a rice protein hydrolysate or a mixture of the two, even better still a soy protein hydrolysate.Composition (C) according to Claim 15, in which the total amount of plant protein hydrolysate(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.08% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition (C) according to one of Claims 1 to 16, which is free of silicones, cationic polymers and cationic surfactants other than fatty amidoamines.Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of a composition as defined in one of Claims 1 to 17.Treatment process according to Claim 18, in which the keratin fibres are washed beforehand with a shampoo, rinsed and then optionally treated with a rinse-off care product before application of the composition (C).Treatment process according to Claim 18 or 19, in which the composition (C) is not rinsed off after application.Use of the composition (C) according to any one of Claims 1 to 17, for treating keratin fibres, and more particularly for repairing and smoothing the hair.

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