Combination of an aureobasidium pullulans extract and of a rose bush extract as cosmetic active agent, composition comprising same and use thereof for skin care

Abstract

The present invention relates to a combination comprising at least one extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans and at least one rose bush extract, the Aureobasidium pullulans extract comprising at least 25% sugars by weight of dry matter of the extract, and also to a composition comprising same. It also relates to non-therapeutic, especially cosmetic, uses and processes employing same for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin.

Description

[0001] 1

[0002] Description

[0003] COMBINATION OF AN AUREOBASIDIUM PULLULANS EXTRACT AND OF A ROSE BUSH EXTRACT AS COSMETIC ACTIVE AGENT, COMPOSITION COMPRISING SAME AND USE THEREOF FOR SKIN CARE

[0004] 5 Technical field

[0005] The present invention relates to the field of active agents dedicated to caring for keratin materials, especially the skin, and in particular for acting with regard to skin ageing. The applications relate mainly to the field of cosmetics.

[0006] 10 Prior art

[0007] The skin is known to be one of the largest organ systems in mammals. Occupying around 10% of the body weight, it is complex both in terms of its structure and its function. Under normal physiological conditions, the epidermis is constantly self-renewing. Epidermal homeostasis, a balance between the proliferation and the differentiation of epidermal

[0008] 15 keratinocytes, is the key process for good skin renewal. Now, the high and constant cellular renewal of the epidermis depends on the rapid proliferation of its progenitor cells.

[0009] Despite representing only 5% of the skin mass, the epidermis has been shown to be a very active tissue in metabolic terms (Leibsohn et al., J Invest Dermatol. 1958 Jan;30(l):l-8.). Metabolically active cells thus have energy requirements that are satisfied by mitochondrial

[0010] 20 respiration, a process that generates adenosine triphosphate (ATP). Now, epidermal cellular renewal requires a lot of energy. In addition, this process is slowed by ageing, which is also considered to be one cause of the signs of skin ageing, such as wrinkles and fine lines.

[0011] Mitochondria are membrane-bound cellular organelles that generate most of the chemical energy needed to power the cell's biochemical reactions. The chemical energy produced by

[0012] 25 the mitochondria is stored in ATP. Recent studies have revealed a more innate role of the mitochondria in maintaining skin homeostasis, which is affected when the essential mitochondrial functions are impaired.

[0013] The growing accumulation of evidence supporting the close association between mitochondrial respiration and skin health has sparked considerable interest in specifically

[0014] 30 targeting mitochondria at the level of the skin. This approach is particularly aimed at stimulating the production of ATP (R Sreedhar, A., Aguilera- Aguirre, L. & Singh, K.K. Mitochondria in skin health, aging, and disease. Cell Death Dis 11, 444 (2020)). This thus underscores the importance of being able to regulate the mitochondrial processes of the cells of the epidermis in order to promote skin health and vitality.

[0015] In summary, the epidermis is a layer of the skin that renews itself autonomously. This process depends on the further differentiation and migration of proliferative basal keratinocytes to cornified keratinocytes, located in the outermost squamous layer of the epidermis. Epidermal renewal is based on good skin homeostasis, associated with good differentiation and therefore with good desquamation (also called peeling) of the skin. It is known that the cellular renewal of the epidermis requires a large amount of energy (ATP produced by mitochondria through mitochondrial respiration) and is slowed by ageing.

[0016] The final step in good skin / epidermal renewal is desquamation, that is to say the detachment of the comeocytes from the external part of the epidermis. Good skin renewal is associated with good desquamation (Saint-Leger D et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007 Mar;6(l):59-65.), which is essential for a lighter complexion (radiance of the skin) and smoother skin (fewer squamae, and therefore less roughness and fewer wrinkles and fine lines, a less dull complexion).

[0017] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing towards meeting the global challenges.

[0018] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus making it possible to meet these environmental challenges.

[0019] In this context, it is important to develop new ingredients and / or active agents that are environmentally conscious and are especially of natural origin, in particular biobased, and / or that are derived from sustainable sources that are not obtained from petrochemistry and / or that are biodegradable and / or the process for the extraction of which requires a low consumption of energy and water in order to provide compositions that enable a reduction in the environmental impact of the products.

[0020] There is therefore a need for a novel active agent or a novel combination of active agents for stimulating the mitochondrial activity of the cells of the skin, in particular the mitochondrial respiration of the cells of the skin and / or the production of ATP by the cells of the skin, especially by the epidermal keratinocytes. There is also a need for a novel active agent or a novel combination of active agents for improving the quality of the surface of the skin.

[0021] There is additionally a need for a novel active agent or a novel combination of active agents for improving the radiance of the complexion of the skin.

[0022] There is moreover a need for a novel active agent or a novel combination of active agents for improving the texture of the skin.

[0023] There is also a need for a novel active agent or a novel combination of active agents for improving the homogeneity of the complexion.

[0024] There is additionally a need for a novel active agent or a novel combination of active agents for reducing the microreliefs of the skin.

[0025] There is moreover a need for a novel active agent or a novel combination of active agents for the improvement of the quality of the surface of the skin, in particular the improvement of the radiance of the complexion of the skin and / or the improvement of the texture of the skin and / or the improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion and / or the reduction of the microreliefs of the skin.

[0026] There is also a need for a novel active agent or a novel combination of active agents for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin ageing, especially wrinkles and fine lines.

[0027] There is additionally a need for a novel active agent or a novel combination of active agents for reinforcing and / or improving epidermal renewal.

[0028] There is lastly also a need for a novel active agent or a novel combination of active agents for preventing and / or treating the signs of skin ageing, especially wrinkles and fine lines, and / or for reinforcing and / or improving epidermal renewal.

[0029] The present invention is targeted specifically at meeting all or some of these needs.

[0030] Disclosure of the invention

[0031] The applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that a combination comprising at least one extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans containing at least 25% sugars and at least one rose bush extract, especially an extract of rose bush consisting of a hybrid obtained by crossing the varieties Meichibon and Delgramaue, has a positive and synergistic influence on several key parameters of keratinocytes, especially on the capacity for production of ATP by the keratinocytes, on the basal respiration of the keratinocytes, and on the maximum respiration of the keratinocytes, in particular epidermal keratinocytes. This has hitherto never been described.

[0032] It has thus been demonstrated, as illustrated in the examples which follow, that such a combination of active agents, or a composition comprising same, makes it possible to support a reinforcement in the energy capacity of the keratinocytes, in particular epidermal keratinocytes, this reinforcement being important for epidermal renewal and the proliferation / differentiation balance mentioned above. This thus allows a significant improvement of the quality of the skin surface, and in particular an improvement of the radiance of the complexion of the skin, of the texture of the skin, a significant reduction in fine lines, and an improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion.

[0033] Summary of the invention

[0034] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a combination comprising at least one extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans and at least one rose bush extract; the Aureobasidium pullulans extract comprising at least 25% sugars by weight of dry matter of the extract.

[0035] The yeast may in particular be isolated from rose bushes, more preferentially from the flowers and / or the thorns and / or the roots of Rosa sp. , in particular from the roots of Rosa sp.

[0036] The extract of Aureobasidium pullulans may in particular comprise at least 45% sugars, by weight of dry matter of the extract, and in particular the sugars of the extract are composed of at least 80% oligosaccharides, by weight of dry matter of the sugars, said oligosaccharides preferably being alpha-linked glucose oligosaccharides and / or beta-linked glucose oligosaccharides and said oligosaccharides having, for example, a molar mass of less than 1800 Da.

[0037] The extract of Aureobasidium pullulans is in particular capable of being obtained by a process comprising the following steps: a. culturing of Aureobasidium pullulans biomass in a culture medium, b. solubilization of at least 50 g / L of Aureobasidium pullulans in water, c. extraction, preferentially extraction of the sugars, d. heat treatment, e. separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, and recovery of the soluble phase, f. purification by molecular sorting, and optionally decolourization and deodorization, and g. optionally concentration and sterilizing filtration.

[0038] In addition, the rose bush of a combination according to the invention may be a hybrid obtained by crossing the varieties Meichibon x Delgramaue and / or, and in particular and, the extract of Aureobasidium pullulans of a combination is not an extract of the culture supernatant of Aureobasidium pullulans.

[0039] The rose bush extract of a combination according to the invention may be obtained from flowers, flowering tops, and / or leaves of said rose bush.

[0040] The rose bush extract may be obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 of an alcoholic mixture of all or part of said rose bush.

[0041] More particularly, the alcoholic mixture may be obtained after infusion of all or part of said rose bush in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent, at a temperature of less than 50°C, so as to obtain an alcoholic mixture.

[0042] The [extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulanslwse bush extract] mass ratio of a combination according to the invention may be greater than 1, preferably greater than 2, more particularly greater than 5, and in particular is between 1 and 1000, especially between 2 and 900, more particularly between 5 and 800, and especially between 6 and 717.

[0043] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a composition, especially cosmetic, non-therapeutic composition, comprising at least, as active principle, a combination according to the invention in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0044] The Aureobasidium pullulans extract may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight of dry matter, preferably ranging from 0.001% to 8% by weight of dry matter, more preferentially ranging from 0.01% to 6% by weight of dry matter, and better still ranging from 0.1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and may be present in the composition in a content of at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] The rose bush extract may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of at least 0.00001% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a content of between 0.0001% and 1% by weight of dry matter, more particularly in a content of at least 0.0001% by weight of dry matter, especially in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 0.1% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to the use of a combination according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention, intended to stimulate the mitochondrial activity of the cells of the skin, in particular the mitochondrial respiration of the cells of the skin and / or the production of ATP by the cells of the skin, especially by the epidermal keratinocytes.

[0047] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to the use of a combination according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention, intended for the improvement of the quality of the surface of the skin, in particular for the improvement of the radiance of the complexion of the skin and / or for the improvement of the texture of the skin and / or for the improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion and / or for the reduction of the microreliefs of the skin.

[0048] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to the use of a combination according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention, intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin ageing, especially wrinkles and fine lines, and / or to reinforce and / or improve epidermal renewal.

[0049] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for keratin materials, comprising at least one step of application to said keratin materials, preferably to the skin, of a combination according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention.

[0050] The keratin material under consideration may be the skin, the lips and / or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and in particular may be (i) the skin of the body, including the skin of the scalp, and / or (ii) the skin of the face, and may more particularly be the skin of the face.

[0051] The process according to the invention may more particularly be intended to stimulate the mitochondrial activity of the cells of the skin, in particular the mitochondrial respiration of the cells of the skin and / or the production of ATP by the cells of the skin, especially by the epidermal keratinocytes.

[0052] The process according to the invention may more particularly be intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin ageing, especially wrinkles and fine lines, and / or to reinforce and / or improve epidermal renewal. The process according to the invention may more particularly be intended for the moisturization of the skin and / or the improvement of the quality of the surface of the skin, in particular the improvement of the radiance of the complexion of the skin and / or the improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion and / or the reduction of the microreliefs of the skin.

[0053] Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the combinations, compositions and implementations in accordance with the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

[0054] Brief description of the drawings

[0055] [Fig. 1] represents a general protocol for obtaining a rose extract by extraction with supercritical CO2 of a floral infusion. The masses are indicative values, subject to variation. [Fig. 2] represents the production of ATP by epidermal keratinocytes (y axis: in percentage for untreated + / - standard deviation (SD)) according to whether these keratinocytes were treated for 24 h with, in the order of the x axis, from left to right: untreated (control); with an A. Pullulans extract at 1.3xl0’2%; with an A. Pullulans extract at 4xl0’2%; with a rose bush extract (obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 - CO2) at 3.3xl0'4%; with a rose bush extract (obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 - CO2) at l.lxl0'3%; with a combination of an A. Pullulans extract at 1.3xl0-2% and a rose bush extract (obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 - CO2) at 3.3xl0‘4%; or with a combination of an A. Pullulans extract at 4xl0'2% and a rose bush extract (obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 - CO2) at l.lxl0’3%.

[0056] *: 0.01 to 0.05, significant; **: 0.001 to 0.01, very significant; ***: < 0.001, particularly significant; ****: < 0.0001, extremely significant.

[0057] [Fig. 3] represents the basal respiration of epidermal keratinocytes (y axis: in percentage for untreated + / - standard deviation (SD)) according to whether these keratinocytes were treated for 24 h with, in the order of the x axis, from left to right: untreated (control); with an A. Pullulans extract at 1.3xl0‘2%; with an A. Pullulans extract at 4xl0'2%; with a rose bush extract (obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 - CO2) at 3.3xl0"4%; with a rose bush extract (obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 - CO2) at l.lxl0'3%; with a combination of an A. Pullulans extract at 1.3xl0'2% and a rose bush extract (obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 - CO2) at 3.3xl0‘4%; or with a combination of an A. Pullulans extract at 4xl0'2% and a rose bush extract (obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 - CO2) at l.lxl0'3%.

[0058] *: 0.01 to 0.05, significant; ** 0.001 to 0.01, very significant; *** < 0.001, particularly significant; ****: < 0.0001, extremely significant.

[0059] [Fig. 4] represents the maximum respiration of epidermal keratinocytes (y axis: in percentage for untreated + / - standard deviation (SD)) according to whether these keratinocytes were treated for 24 h with, in the order of the x axis, from left to right: untreated (control); with an A. Pullulans extract at 1.3xl0‘2%; with an A. Pullulans extract at 4xl0‘2%; with a rose bush extract (obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 - CO2) at 3.3xl0'4%; with a rose bush extract (obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 - CO2) at l.lxl0’3%; with a combination of an A. Pullulans extract at 1.3xl0'2% and a rose bush extract (obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 - CO2) at 3.3xl0‘4%; or with a combination of an A. Pullulans extract at 4xl0-2% and a rose bush extract (obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 - CO2) at l.lxl0'3%.

[0060] *: 0.01 to 0.05, significant; **: 0.001 to 0.01, very significant; ***: < 0.001, particularly significant; ****: < 0.0001, extremely significant.

[0061] Detailed description

[0062] Definitions

[0063] For the purposes of the invention, the term " Aureobasidium pullulans” is understood to mean any yeast of the family Dothioraceae, of the genus Aureobasidium and of the species Aureobasidium pullulans.

[0064] For the purposes of the invention, the term 'Aureobasidium pullulans extract” is understood to mean an extract comprising at least one set of molecules, preferentially an extract of the biomass of the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans comprising at least sugars representing at least 25% by weight of dry matter of the total weight of the extract, obtained via any extraction process well known to those skilled in the art, for example by induced autolysis, sonication, homogenization, chemical hydrolysis or enzymatic hydrolysis. Such extraction processes are described in the publications Varelas V. et al., Drug Test Anal. 2016 Jan and Du L. et al. Molecules. 2020 Jan 23. The Aureobasidium pullulans extract in accordance with the invention is not an extract of the culture supernatant of Aureobasidium pullulans.

[0065] For the purposes of the invention, the term "extract of the culture supernatant of yeast" is understood to mean an extract that is not an extract of the culture biomass of Aureobasidium pullulans.

[0066] According to the invention, a "physiologically acceptable medium" is preferentially a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. odourless and with no unpleasant appearance, and which is perfectly compatible with the topical administration route, i.e. which has a pleasant colour and feel and does not generate any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. tingling, tautness or redness, liable to discourage the user from applying this composition.

[0067] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin materials" particularly denotes the skin, the lips and / or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and preferably the skin of the body, including the skin of the scalp, and / or of the face, and more preferentially of the face.

[0068] The term "skin" is understood to mean all of the skin of the body, including the scalp, mucous membranes, the semimucous membranes, and the skin integuments.

[0069] The term "signs of skin ageing" is understood herein to mean any modification of the outer appearance of the skin due to ageing, whether this be chronobiological and / or extrinsic ageing, in particular due to chronobiological ageing. Among these signs, mention may in particular be made of wrinkled skin, which manifests in particular in the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, and skin exhibiting a deterioration in its surface appearance, which manifests in particular in an alteration in the grain of the skin, for example roughness. The term "prevent" or "prevention" is understood to also mean "reduce the probability of occurrence or of recurrence of a phenomenon" .

[0070] The term "treat" or "treatment" is understood to denote the attenuation of the symptoms associated with a disorder or with a specific state and / or the elimination of said symptoms and also the complete disappearance of the disorder or state under consideration, in particular herein the treatment of the signs of skin ageing, especially wrinkles and fine lines.

[0071] The terms "combination" and "association" are used interchangeably herein and have the same meaning.

[0072] Aureobasidium pullulans extract The yeast Aureobasidium pullulans, also known as black yeast, is ubiquitous, polyextremotolerant and occurs either as a filamentous fungus or in unicellular form. A. pullulans is well known as a natural epiphyte of many plant species, such as apples and grapes. For several years, it has been used in biotechnology for the production of several enzymes or for combating certain diseases of the plant kingdom, such as apple tree diseases. Thus, a combination in accordance with the present invention comprises at least one extract obtained from the biomass of the yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans, comprising at least 25% sugars by weight of dry matter of the extract.

[0073] Advantageously, the Aureobasidium pullulans yeast may be collected from rose bushes, preferably cultivated on the Valensole plateau (France); more preferentially, the yeast is collected from the flowers and / or thorns and / or roots of Rosa sp. , in particular from the roots of Rosa sp.

[0074] Preferably, Aureobasidium pullulans is isolated from rose bushes (Rosa sp.).

[0075] The genus Rosa includes more than 200 species, among which mention may be made of Rosa alba, Rosa alpina, Rosa canina, Rosa cinnamonea, Rosa gallica, Rosa repens, Rosa rubrifolia, Rosa rubiginosa, Rosa sempervirens, Rosa spinosissima, Rosa stylosa, Rosa tomentosa, or also Rosa villosa and Rosa floribunda.

[0076] More preferentially, Aureobasidium pullulans may be isolated from a hybrid rose bush, such as a rose bush of the species Rosa floribunda, better still a hybrid rose bush of the variety Rosa floribunda "delflobla" available commercially in particular under the trade name Rose Lancome® from the company Delbard (France). The Rosa floribunda "delflobla" variety is also described in document US 2020 / 0178431.

[0077] The Aureobasidium pullulans yeast in accordance with the present invention may be derived from a strain registered on 13 January 2021 in a yeast collection (CIRM), under CLIB number 2138.

[0078] According to one embodiment, the Aureobasidium pullulans yeast is ubiquitous, and so may be present in several plant species. Preferentially, the Aureobasidium pullulans yeast is isolated from rose bushes, more preferentially from the flowers and / or the thorns and / or the roots of Rosa sp., in particular from the roots of Rosa sp.

[0079] The Aureobasidium pullulans biomass is in particular produced from the yeast previously obtained. This step is performed according to the method for culturing the yeasts in a medium that is suitable for their growth, for example a suitable culture medium, in a manner that is conventional for those skilled in the art. Once the biomass has been obtained, an extraction step is performed for the purpose of obtaining the active molecules, preferentially an extraction of the sugars.

[0080] The extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans comprises at least 25% sugars by weight of dry matter of the extract. The extract in accordance with the invention may also comprise peptides and mineral ash.

[0081] Thus, the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans comprises sugars, these representing at least 25% of the extract, by weight of dry matter of the extract. Preferentially, the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans comprises at least 45% sugars, by weight of dry matter of the extract.

[0082] The total sugar content may be determined by the Dubois method (Dubois M. et al., Analytical Chemistry, 28, 3, 350-356, 1956). The total sugar content is expressed as a percentage relative to the dry matter.

[0083] The size of the sugars present in the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans can be characterized by HPLC / RI chromatography. They may be in the form of monosaccharides or in the form of oligosaccharides; preferentially, the oligosaccharides have a molar mass of less than 1800 Da.

[0084] Particularly preferably, oligosaccharides are predominant in the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans. Lastly, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the sugars of the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans are composed of at least 80% oligosaccharides, by weight of dry matter of the sugars.

[0085] Preferentially, the oligosaccharides of the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans are alpha-linked glucose oligosaccharides and / or beta-linked glucose oligosaccharides.

[0086] The alpha-linked glucose oligosaccharides are oligomers consisting of D-glucose linked by alpha linkages. These oligosaccharides present in the cosmetic active principle in accordance with the invention may have a degree of polymerization (DP) of between 2 and 10 units.

[0087] In addition, these oligosaccharides may have a molar mass of less than 1800 daltons. Preferentially, they represent between 1.5 and 4 g / L. Beta-linked glucose oligosaccharides are oligosaccharides consisting of D-glucose linked by beta linkages. These oligosaccharides may have a degree of polymerization of between 2 and 10 units, and may have a molar mass of less than 1800 daltons. Preferentially, they represent between 1.5 and 4 g / L.

[0088] Thus, the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans may comprise sugars of oligosaccharide structures having a degree of polymerization (DP) of less than 10, i.e. a molar mass of less than 1800 daltons.

[0089] The extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans may also comprise peptides. Preferentially, these represent at least 30% by weight of dry matter of the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans. The peptide content may be determined by measuring the total nitrogen content according to the Kjeldahl method (reference: Official method of analysis of the A.O.C., 12th ed. W Horwitz, E.D., New York, 15-60, 1975). The peptides have a molar mass of less than 2000 Da. The distribution and molar mass of the peptides may be determined by FPLC (Fast Protein Liquid Chromatography) size exclusion chromatography; the amount of each peptide fraction is determined by spectrophotometric assay using the Lowry method (Lowry et al., Protein measurement with the Folin reagent, J. Biol. Chem., 193, 265-275, 1951).

[0090] When the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans comprises mineral ash, the ash content is preferentially between 8% and 18% by weight relative to the dry matter of the extract, more preferentially still between 10% and 15%. The crude ash content may be determined by weighing the residues from incineration of the samples at 550°C in a muffle furnace. The nature of the minerals contained in the ash may be determined by optical emission spectrometry (ICP / OES). The chloride ions contained in the ash are assayed by titration with silver nitrate. Preferentially, the mineral ash contained in the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans comprises calcium, phosphorus, chloride ions, magnesium, sulfur and sodium.

[0091] The dry matter content of the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans may be determined by weighing the residues from drying the extract in accordance with the invention at 105 °C in an oven until a constant weight is obtained. Preferentially, the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans in liquid form has a dry matter content of: 10 g / L to 40 g / L, more preferentially still from 17 g / L to 26 g / L. The extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans is preferentially in the form of a clear liquid of very pale yellow colour and having a weak odour. It may, however, be more coloured and / or decolourized via any process known to those skilled in the art.

[0092] Process for the extraction of the Aureobasidium pullulans extract

[0093] The extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans may be obtained by any process comprising at least one step of extraction of the biomass of the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans. The extraction of the biomass of the yeast does not consist in recovering the supernatant of the culture of the yeast. Therefore, an extract of Aureobasidium pullulans according to the invention is not an extract of the culture supernatant of Aureobasidium pullulans.

[0094] Prior to the process for obtaining the extract as such, the Aureobasidium pullulans biomass should be produced. This step is performed according to the method for culturing the yeasts in a medium that is suitable for their growth, for example a suitable culture medium, in a manner that is conventional for those skilled in the art. Once the biomass has been obtained, an extraction step may be performed for the purpose of obtaining the active molecules, preferentially sugars. The extraction step may be performed by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by induced autolysis, sonication, homogenization, enzymatic lysis, chemical hydrolysis or enzymatic hydrolysis.

[0095] For example, the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans may be obtained by performing the following steps: a. culturing of Aureobasidium pullulans biomass in a culture medium, preferentially a suitable culture medium, b. solubilization of at least 50 g / L of the Aureobasidium pullulans biomass in water, c. extraction, preferentially extraction of the sugars, d. heat treatment, e. separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, and recovery of the soluble phase, f. purification by molecular sorting, and optionally decolourization and deodorization, and g. optionally concentration and sterilizing filtration.

[0096] The separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is performed by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by centrifugation, filtration or decantation. Preferentially, the separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is performed to recover the soluble phase containing inter alia the soluble sugars, such as oligosaccharides.

[0097] Optionally, the process comprises a filtration step after the recovery of the soluble phase in order to remove particles still in suspension. This filtration step thus allows the recovered soluble phase to be purified and is performed so as to remove the high molecular weight molecules.

[0098] The product obtained at this stage may optionally be further concentrated and / or purified, preferentially by successive ultrafiltration steps through filters of different porosity, retaining the filtrates at each step, and / or by a chromatographic type method.

[0099] The product obtained after filtration, before or after concentration and sterilizing filtration, is the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans in liquid form.

[0100] Rose bush extract

[0101] A combination according to the invention also comprises at least one rose bush extract.

[0102] This rose bush extract may in particular be a particular hybrid rose bush extract obtained by crossing the varieties Meichibon x Delgramaue.

[0103] The variety name Meichibon refers to a rose bush belonging to the Rosaceae family, of the genus Rosa. It is a tea hybrid, also referred to commercially under the name Tchaikovsky®, or Tchaikovsky® Meichibon rose bush or Meilland rose bush.

[0104] The variety name Delgramaue refers to a rose bush belonging to the Rosaceae family, of the genus Rosa, of the species floribunda, also referred to under the rose bush trade name "rose synactifby Shiseido®" (Delbard), or "La Rose du Petit Prince" .

[0105] A rose bush, especially hybrid rose bush, as mentioned above may present abundant white double leaves, which may exhibit some pink coloured tips, i.e. an average of five flowers per stem, and also a fragrance presenting various notes, including (i) a top note of citrus and grapefruit rose, (ii) a heart note of apricot and lychee and (iii) a green base note. It may grow, on average, to a height of about 70 to 80 cm, and a width of about 40 to 50 cm, with branches having a diameter of between about 8 and 10 mm.

[0106] In particular, a hybrid rose bush as mentioned above may be obtained by hybridization of a "male" variety belonging to the variety name Delgramaue, and of a "female" variety belonging to the variety name Meichibon. In particular, such a hybrid rose bush may be obtained by pollination, i.e. application of a pollen from the stamens of a "male" flower, and in particular of a flower belonging to the variety name Delgramaue, to the pistil of a "female" flower, and in particular of a flower belonging to the variety name Meichibon.

[0107] This hybrid rose bush may notably be distinguished from the varieties Meichibon and Delgramaue, defined previously, by virtue of a combination of the following features:

[0108] - the number of petals generally differs from the Meichibon variety, in that this type of rose bush has flowers with a greater number of petals, of a bigger size, and with a more pronounced fragrance with, as stated previously, a characteristic note of grapefruit;

[0109] - the colour of the petals generally differs from the Delgramaue variety, in that their colour is generally white, whereas the Delgramaue variety has petals of a lilac colour, it is more vigorous and more resistant toward the disease known as "rose black spot disease".

[0110] Rose bush extracts according to the invention may be obtained from plant material derived from whole plants or from plant parts, such as the leaves, stems, flowers, flowering tops, petals, sepals or roots cultivated in vivo or in vitro.

[0111] The term "in vivo culture" is understood to mean any culture of conventional type, i.e. in soil in the open air or in a greenhouse, or alternatively out of the soil.

[0112] The term "in vitro culture" is understood to mean all of the techniques known to those skilled in the art which make it possible to artificially obtain a plant or a plant part. The imposed selection pressure makes it possible to obtain a plant material which is standardized and available all year round, contrary to plants cultivated in vivo.

[0113] In particular, said rose bush extract may be obtained from flowers, flowering tops and / or leaves of said rose bush.

[0114] The rose bush extract of a combination according to the invention may in particular be obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 of an alcoholic mixture of all or part of said rose bush.

[0115] A supercritical CO2 extract generally denotes an extract obtained by a process using CO2 gas in a "supercritical" state, i.e. at a high pressure level (generally greater than 50 bar, or even greater than 70 bar), and at a low temperature (generally greater than 30°C and lower than 50°C). According to one embodiment, the extraction is performed in the presence of a CO2 gas in the supercritical state, i.e. at a temperature of at least 31.1 °C and at a pressure of at least 74.5 bar.

[0116] Said supercritical CO2 extract may in particular be obtained according to a protocol described in WO 2012 / 085366 and detailed hereinbelow.

[0117] A rose bush extract according to the invention, in particular hybrid rose bush extract, may be obtained by any known means.

[0118] For example, a rose bush extract according to the invention may be obtained by extraction with apolar volatile solvents obtained from petrochemistry, such as hexane, isohexane, cyclohexane, benzene, petroleum ether, propane or butane. The water from the plants is then decanted, and the solvent containing the perfume is concentrated under vacuum to yield the concrete. A rose bush extract may also be obtained by steam distillation or by hydrodistillation.

[0119] Said rose bush extract may be an alcoholic mixture obtained by infusing all or part of said rose bush in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent. In particular, the rose bush extract may be obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 of an alcoholic mixture of all or part of said rose bush, the alcoholic mixture being obtained after infusion of all or part of said rose bush in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent, at a temperature of less than 50°C, so as to obtain an alcoholic mixture.

[0120] The general process of extraction with supercritical CO2 is known. In the supercritical state, i.e. at more than 74 bar (in particular more than 74.4 bar) and more than 31°C (in particular more than 31.1 °C), CO2 has very particular properties and may be used as a natural extraction solvent. The fluid obtained is characterized by high diffusivity (of the order of that of gases) which gives it good ability for diffusion, and a high density which imparts a high capacity for transport and extraction.

[0121] With preference, a rose bush extract, in particular hybrid rose bush extract, according to the invention is obtained by a process of extraction with supercritical CO2 of all or part of said rose bush, and especially according to any one of the variants described in document WO 2012 / 085366, the contents of which are incorporated by reference in the present description. According to this preferred embodiment, said rose bush extract may thus be obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 of an alcoholic mixture of all or part of said rose bush. Said alcoholic mixture may also be obtained by infusion of all or part of said rose bush in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent.

[0122] The step of extraction with supercritical CO2 according to the invention may be performed in static mode or in dynamic mode.

[0123] According to the invention, the CO2 is preferentially used at a pressure of between 130 and 200 bar and at a temperature of between 35 and 55°C, more preferentially still at 150 bar and 45 °C, in counter-current mode, and is particularly suitable for obtaining an extract of fresh flowers and / or leaves, which is clear, transparent and stable, largely freed of sugars, colouring matter, and water, and having an alcohol titre of at least 75%.

[0124] Advantageously, the process according to the invention may also comprise a step in which the rose bush extract obtained after extraction with supercritical CO2 is concentrated as obtained, under vacuum with gentle heating at a temperature of less than 60°C, or on a support such as a natural oil, shea butter, natural glycerol, or a natural fragrancing molecule such as natural benzyl acetate, natural geraniol, or natural nerolidol.

[0125] As an example of an alcoholic solvent according to the invention, use is made of a natural alcohol chosen from methanol, ethanol, 1 -propanol, 2-propanol, butanol, isobutanol, pentanol and isoamyl alcohol, and preferentially ethanol, which has a lower boiling point (except for methanol) and which is much less toxic than, in particular, methanol. An alcoholic solvent may be an ethanolic solvent.

[0126] Most particularly, said alcoholic mixture may be obtained after infusion of flowers, flowering tops, and / or leaves in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent, at a temperature of less than 50°C, in order to obtain an alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic mixture, or even a fragranced alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic mixture.

[0127] According to the invention, the flowers, flowering tops and / or leaves are preferentially infused in the alcoholic solvent at ambient temperature, i.e. at a temperature of between 15 and 35°C.

[0128] An alcoholic mixture may thus be obtained by infusion of all or part of said rose bush in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent.

[0129] The rose bush extract of a combination according to the invention may particularly comprise volatile compounds, and in particular at least one compound chosen from: cis-3-hexenol, trans-2-hexenol, Ce alcohol, diethoxyethanol, methylheptenone, acetin or a related compound, cis-3-hexenyl acetate, hexyl acetate, phenylacetaldehyde, benzyl alcohol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol, diacetin or a related compound, benzyl acetate, diethyl succinate, terpinen-4-ol, nerol, citronellol, geraniol, geranial, cis-theaspirane, delta-elemene, citronellyl acetate, geranyl acetate, alpha-copaene, beta-elemene, coumarin, hydroxyedulane or isomer, P-caryophyllene, dihydro-P-ionone, dihydro-P-ionol, a-jumulene, y-muurolene, germacrene D, a-cadinene, P-bisabolene, y-cadinene, y-eudesmol, P-eudesmol, a-cadinol, 4- oxodihydro-P-ionol, benzyl benzoate, ethyl myristate, C19 alkene, C19 alkane, palmitic acid, ethyl palmitate, C20 alkane, C21 alkane, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linoleate, ethyl linolenate, ethyl stearate, tricosene, tricosane, dihydro-P-ionol ester.

[0130] In particular, the rose bush extract may particularly comprise a plurality of compounds chosen from: cis-3-hexenol, trans-2-hexenol, Ce alcohol, diethoxyethanol, methylheptenone, acetin or a related compound, cis-3-hexenyl acetate, hexyl acetate, phenylacetaldehyde, benzyl alcohol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol, diacetin or a related compound, benzyl acetate, diethyl succinate, terpinen-4-ol, nerol, citronellol, geraniol, geranial, cis-theaspirane, delta- elemene, citronellyl acetate, geranyl acetate, alpha-copaene, beta-elemene, coumarin, hydroxyedulane or isomer, P-caryophyllene, dihydro-P-ionone, dihydro-P-ionol, a- jumulene, y-muurolene, germacrene D, a-cadinene, P-bisabolene, y-cadinene, y-eudesmol, P-eudesmol, a-cadinol, 4-oxodihydro-P-ionol, benzyl benzoate, ethyl myristate, C19 alkene, C19 alkane, palmitic acid, ethyl palmitate, C20 alkane, C21 alkane, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linoleate, ethyl linolenate, ethyl stearate, tricosene, tricosane, dihydro-P-ionol ester.

[0131] The rose bush extract, in particular obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2, may, for example, comprise at least one compound chosen from: geraniol, geranial, nerol and citronellol.

[0132] According to one embodiment, the rose bush extract may also comprise at least one compound chosen from: cis- or trans-theaspirane, dihydro-beta-ionone, dihydro-beta-ionol, 4-oxodihydro-beta- ionol.

[0133] During the infusion, the flowers, flowering tops and / or leaves are soaked in the alcoholic solvent and may be gently mixed.

[0134] Advantageously, the infusion is performed using solvent circulation in a closed circuit, i.e. the solvent is circulated over the flowers, flowering tops and / or leaves so as to create a movement in the extractor, in particular without breaking the petals, and to avoid saturation areas of the solvent around the petals. The mixing thus provides solvent which is less saturated and which will in turn perform the extraction. Alternatively, infusions may be performed in several concomitant or successive baths, depending on the quantity of flowers and / or leaves to be treated.

[0135] It is possible, for example, to prepare a single bath, followed by rinsing using fresh extraction solvent, several baths with the same flowers and / or leaves, or even several runs of flowers and / or leaves in the same bath due to the low saturation of the ethanol, for a final weight / weight ratio of flowers-leaves / alcoholic solvent of from 1:1 to 1:10, preferentially from 1:1 to 1:3.

[0136] For example, advantageously several repeat runs of flowers and / or leaves may be performed in the same alcohol bath in order to saturate it, for example up to five repeat runs, which makes it possible to concentrate the primary alcoholic extract. This proves to be more economical in terms of volumes to be transported and treated when the process for obtaining said extract involves a step of extraction with supercritical CO2.

[0137] Next, depending on the preparation process used, the flowers, flowering tops and / or leaves are generally drained, avoiding excessive crushing, and the alcoholic mixture thus obtained is filtered so as to recover an alcoholic floral infusion suitable for being stored cool at a temperature from about 4 to 10°C for one day to several months.

[0138] A process for obtaining a rose bush extract of a combination according to the invention may thus comprise the following steps: a) infusing all or part of a rose bush, especially a hybrid rose bush obtained by crossing the varieties Meichibon x Delgramaue, in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent, in particular an ethanolic solvent, at a temperature of less than 50°C, so as to obtain an alcoholic mixture; b) optionally filtering said alcoholic mixture so as to recover an alcoholic floral infusion; and c) performing an extraction with supercritical CO2 of said alcoholic mixture or of said alcoholic floral infusion in order to obtain said rose bush extract.

[0139] A process for obtaining a rose bush extract of a combination according to the invention may comprise the following steps: a) gathering the flowers, flowering tops and / or leaves of a rose bush, especially of a hybrid rose bush obtained by crossing the varieties Meichibon x Delgramaue; b) infusing the flowers, flowering tops and / or leaves provided in step a) in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent, in particular an ethanolic solvent, at a temperature of less than 50°C, so as to obtain an alcoholic mixture; c) optionally filtering said alcoholic mixture so as to recover an alcoholic floral infusion; and d) performing an extraction with supercritical CO2 of said alcoholic mixture or of said alcoholic floral infusion in order to obtain said rose bush extract.

[0140] In particular, the [extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans / rose bush extract] mass ratio of a combination according to the invention may be greater than 1. Especially, the [extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulanslm c bush extract] mass ratio of a combination according to the invention may be greater than 2. The [extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulanslws bush extract] mass ratio of a combination according to the invention may more particularly be greater than 5.

[0141] In particular, the [extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans / mse bush extract] mass ratio of a combination according to the invention may be between 1 and 1000.

[0142] More particularly, the [extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans / rose bush extract] mass ratio of a combination according to the invention may be between 2 and 900.

[0143] More particularly still, the [extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans I rose bush extract] mass ratio of a combination according to the invention may be between 5 and 800.

[0144] Especially, the [extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans / rose bush extract] mass ratio of a combination according to the invention may be between 6 and 717.

[0145] Composition according to the invention

[0146] A composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic, especially cosmetic, and comprises at least, as active principle, a combination according to the invention.

[0147] In a composition according to the invention, the combination according to the invention is comprised within a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is suitable for administering a composition topically, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin. The extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans of the combination according to the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0148] In particular, the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 8% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] More particularly, the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 6% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] Especially, the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 6% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] In particular, the extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans may be present in the composition in a content of at least 0.1% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0152] The rose bush extract of the combination according to the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of at least 0.00001% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] In particular, the rose bush extract of the combination according to the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.0001% and 1% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] More particularly, the rose bush extract of the combination according to the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of at least 0.0001% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] Especially, the rose bush extract of the combination according to the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 0.1% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0156] A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular of the body or of the face, preferably of the face. Such a composition may constitute a cleansing, protective, treatment or care cream for the face, for the hands, or for the body including the skin of the scalp, for example day cream, night cream, makeup cream, foundation cream, antisun cream or hair lotion or cream for the scalp.

[0157] In particular, the compositions according to the invention may be in the form of anti-ageing care, moisturizing or photoprotective compositions, in particular anti-ageing care compositions, for the skin of the body or of the face, in particular of the face.

[0158] The compositions may be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator.

[0159] The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of aqueous solutions, aqueous-alcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions or aqueous gels, a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, especially using spherules, these spherules possibly being polymeric particles or, better still, lipid vesicles of the ionic and / or nonionic type, or else in the form of a powder, a serum, a paste or a flexible wand or a stick. It may be of solid, pasty or more or less fluid liquid consistency.

[0160] These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. a / Fatty phase

[0161] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0162] The fatty phase preferably contains at least one oil, especially a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0163] The term "oil" is understood to mean a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at ambient temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0164] A fatty phase that is suitable for preparing the compositions, especially cosmetic compositions, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0165] Preferably, a composition comprises less than 5.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), more preferentially less than 2.0% by weight, better still less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially is free of silicone oil(s).

[0166] A composition comprising a limited content of silicone oil(s) is advantageously more natural, but also lighter, less tacky and less rough to the touch, with a softer finish, than a composition comprising more than 5% by weight or more of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0168] They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0169] As examples of plant oils, mention may for example be made of Orbignya oleifera seed oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, arara oil, hazelnut oil, maize oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof. As examples of animal oils, mention may for example be made of squalene, perhydrosqualene, squalane, and mixtures thereof.

[0170] The term "non-volatile" refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10'3mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0171] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.

[0172] The term "fluoro oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0173] The term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may thus contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0174] The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

[0175] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" is understood to mean any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at ambient temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0176] Mention may especially be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, for instance Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cx-Cie esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0177] Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for instance n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol® 12-97 and Parafol® 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecanetridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

[0178] Mention may also be made of the following mixtures of linear or branched alkanes, preferably of plant origin:

[0179] - a mixture of branched C15-C19 alkanes, for example the mixture sold by the company Seppic under the name Emogreen® LI 5;

[0180] - a mixture of linear and / or branched C15-C19 alkanes, for example the mixture sold by the company SEPPIC under the name EMOGREEN® LI 9.

[0181] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrocarbon oil chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, in particular an undecane-tridecane mixture, and linear and / or branched C15-C19 alkanes, in particular a mixture of linear and / or branched C15-C19 alkanes.

[0182] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0183] Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

[0184] Mention may also be made of non-volatile hydrocarbon, fluoro and / or silicone oils.

[0185] Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include:

[0186] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as squalane; - hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as: petroleum jelly, liquid paraffins, polybutylenes, for example Indopol H-100 (of molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), Indopol fl- 300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco, polyisobutenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW = 1340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW = 6000 g / mol), Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW - 1000 g / mol), polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, for example Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals; decene / butene copolymers, and polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, for example Indopol L-14;

[0187] - hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as plant squalane,

[0188] - synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether,

[0189] - synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R1COOR2, in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents an, in particular branched, hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may especially be chosen from esters of alcohol and of fatty acid, such as for example cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate or isostearyl behenate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate (INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate) ; fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature and have a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol, higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, non-phenyl silicone oils, such as for example dimethicone or caprylyl methicone, and phenyl silicone oils, such as for example phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicones with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; and also mixtures of these different oils.

[0190] The oil(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight and preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0191] The composition according to the invention may also comprise solid fatty substances, for instance fatty acids that are solid at ambient temperature, such as stearic acid, lauric acid and palmitic acid; waxes, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, fatty alcohol waxes, butters such as plant butters; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Ci-C4-alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the name KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the name Trefil or BY29 by the company Dow Corning or under the name Gransil by the company Grant Industries, such as the one bearing the INCI name dimethicone / poly silicone- 11.

[0192] As fatty alcohol waxes, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0193] Preferentially, the fatty alcohol wax is cetyl alcohol. As butters, in particular plant butters, mention may be made of avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, mango butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter and sal butter, and mixtures thereof, and in particular is shea butter.

[0194] These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.

[0195] The solid fatty substance(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0196] Aqueous phase

[0197] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous phase.

[0198] The aqueous phase may comprise water and optionally a water-miscible organic solvent.

[0199] The water used may be demineralized water and / or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime blossom water, and / or a natural thermal water or mineral water, such as for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les- Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains water and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, i.e. a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a thermal water.

[0200] The water-miscible organic solvents that may be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

[0201] The composition may comprise water in a concentration ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0202] Preferably, water is present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, and more preferentially from 45% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. According to the present invention, the term "water-miscible organic solvent" is understood to mean an organic compound that is liquid at ambient temperature, especially having a water miscibility of greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure.

[0203] Among the water-miscible organic solvents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may especially be made of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, polyols, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0204] Among the lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, mention may be made of ethanol and isopropanol.

[0205] The term "polyol suitable for use in the invention" is understood to mean a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions.

[0206] The polyols that are suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are in particular those especially having from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0207] Among the polyols, mention may be made of pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols.

[0208] When they are present, the water-miscible organic solvent(s) is (are) preferably present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0209] The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Glycerol may for example be noted as a water-soluble solvent that may be present in a composition according to the invention.

[0210] Depending on the viscosity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, it is possible to incorporate into the composition one or more thickeners and / or gelling agents, especially hydrophilic thickeners and / or gelling agents, that is to say ones which are soluble or dispersible in water, such as, for example, carboxy vinyl polymers such as Carbopols (carbomers) and Pemulen products (acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer). Advantageously, the gelling agent is chosen from hydrophilic polymeric gelling agents that are synthetic or natural or of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

[0211] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "of natural origin" is intended to denote polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of natural polymeric gelling agents.

[0212] The synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents may be chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers; modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, and mixtures thereof, especially as defined below.

[0213] Among the crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, mention may be made of crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, such as the products sold under the names Octacare X100, XI 10 and RM100 by the company Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by the company SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1110 by the company BASF, those sold under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium acrylate copolymer) by the company Grain Processing.

[0214] Among the carboxyvinyl polymers, examples that may be mentioned include modified or unmodified carboxy vinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the name Carbopol® (CTFA name: carbomer).

[0215] Among the polyacrylamides and the optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido- 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, mention may be made of poly(2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the name Hostacerin® AMPS (CTFA name: Ammonium Poly aery Idimethyltauramide), crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, which are in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel® 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide I C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel® 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide I Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic.

[0216] The hydrophilic polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin may be chosen from modified or unmodified celluloses, carrageenans, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, pullulan, cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth, tara gum, acacia gum or gum arabic, and mixtures thereof.

[0217] A composition according to the invention may also comprise a lipophilic thickener. The latter may in particular be chosen from esters of dextrin and of preferably C12 to C24, in particular C14-C18, fatty acid, or mixtures thereof, and (poly)esters of at least one fatty acid comprising from 20 to 24 carbon atoms and of glycerol.

[0218] The dextrin ester may be an ester of dextrin and of a C12-C18, in particular C14-C18, fatty acid.

[0219] The dextrin ester may be chosen from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially dextrin palmitate.

[0220] According to one embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, especially such as that sold under the name Rheopearl MKL-2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

[0221] According to one embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. The latter may, for example, be chosen from those sold under the names Rheopearl® TL 2 OR, Rheopearl® KL 2 or Rheopearl® KE by Chiba Flour Milling.

[0222] The (poly)ester of fatty acid and of glycerol may advantageously be a (poly)ester of behenic acid and of glycerol, in particular a mono-, di- or triester, indeed even a mixture of these.

[0223] The (poly)ester of fatty acid and of glycerol may in particular be a mixture of mono-, di- and / or triesters of behenic acid and of glycerol.

[0224] The ester of behenic acid and of glycerol is chosen in particular from the group consisting of glyceryl monobehenate, glyceryl dibehenate and glyceryl tribehenate, in particular a mixture of glyceryl monobehenate, glyceryl dibehenate and glyceryl tribehenate.

[0225] Such a mixture is in particular available, for example, under the INCI name "glyceryl dibehenate & tribehenin & glyceryl behenate" and is in particular sold under the reference Compritol 888 by the company Gattefosse.

[0226] The composition according to the invention may comprise between 0.2% and 4% by total weight of (poly)ester of behenic acid and of glycerol and preferably between 0.5% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0227] C-glycoside

[0228] A composition according to the invention may additionally comprise a C-glycoside (or C- glycoside derivative). Such a compound may for example be chosen from the group consisting of C-P-D- xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-P-D- xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-P-D- fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, l-(C-ot-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, 1-(C-P-L- fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, l-(C-ot-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, 1-(C-P-D- fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-P- L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C- P-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, l-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C-P-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, l-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-2- hydroxypropane, l-(C-P-D-fucofuranosyl)propan- 2-one, l-(C-a-D-fucofuranosyl)propan- 2-one, l-(C-P-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, l-(C-a-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, C-P- D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-a-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-P-D- maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-a-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, isomers thereof or mixtures thereof.

[0229] Better still, a composition according to the invention may in particular comprise, as C- glycoside, at least C-P-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane, and preferably C-P-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane such as the product sold under the name Mexoryl SBB® or Mexoryl SCN® by Noveal, the INCI name of which is HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL or under the name Mexoryl SBB®, which contains 35% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in 40% by weight of water and 25% of propylene glycol.

[0230] Said C-glycoside may be present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight of active material, more preferentially from 0.01 % to 4% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 0.5% to 3.5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, such as 0.6% or 3.2% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0231] Active agents

[0232] Advantageously, a composition may also comprise at least one additional cosmetic active agent. Examples of active agents that may be mentioned include:

[0233] - moisturizers;

[0234] - depigmenting agents;

[0235] - desquamating agents;

[0236] - humectants;

[0237] - anti- ageing agents;

[0238] - cicatrizing agents;

[0239] - dermo-relaxing or dermo-decontracting agents, such as adenosine;

[0240] - sebum-regulating or antiseborrheic agents, such as sodium polyacrylate; emollients, such as plant butters;

[0241] - mattifying agents, such as rice or maize starch, in particular an aluminium starch octenyl succinate, for example the product sold under the name Dry Flo® by the company National Starch; and mixtures thereof.

[0242] A composition according to the invention may comprise, as active agent, a hydrolate of Rosa damascena flowers. In the context of the present invention, the term "hydrolate" is understood to mean an aqueous distillate obtained from a plant raw material by steam distillation. The hydrolate is thus the aqueous distillate that remains after the steam distillation, once the separation of the essential oil has been performed. A hydrolate according to the invention may also be referred to as "aromatic water".

[0243] These active agents are different from the combination according to the invention.

[0244] Surfactants

[0245] A composition according to the invention may comprise emulsifying surfactants, which are preferably nonionic.

[0246] The nonionic surfactants may especially be chosen from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, gemini surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Consideration may for example be given to glyceryl stearate SA (and) sucrose stearate.

[0247] Oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, alcohols that are preferably used are those which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular having from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular fatty alcohols, especially C8-C24 and preferably C12-C18 fatty alcohols; these fatty alcohols optionally being ethoxylated, for example such as stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Steareth-20), for instance Brij® 78 sold by the company Uniqema, cetearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Ceteareth- 30), and the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name C12-15 Pareth-7), for instance the product sold under the name Neodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals; or in particular oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) alcohols having from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular ethoxylated C8-C24 and preferably C12-C18 fatty alcohols, such as stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Steareth-2), for instance Brij® 72 sold by the company Uniqema.

[0248] As optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, preference is given to using those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. Examples that may be mentioned include sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate) such as the product Tween® 20 sold by the company Uniqema, or polysorbate 60, sorbitan palmitate 20 EO, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan stearate 20 EO, sorbitan oleate 20 EO, or else the Cremophor® products (RH 40, RH 60, etc.) from BASF. The mixture of sorbitan stearate and of sucrose cocoate, sold under the name Arlacel® 2121U-FL from Croda, may also be mentioned.

[0249] Alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides that are preferably used are those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18 or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5 and especially 1, 2 or 3 glucoside units. The alkyl polyglucosides may be chosen, for example, from decyl glucoside (alkyl-Cy / Ci i -polyglucosidc (1.4)), for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by the company Henkel and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10® by the company Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis or Oramix CG 110® by the company Seppic; lauryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by the company Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by the company Henkel; cocoyl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by the company Henkel; caprylyl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by the company Cognis; the mixture of arachidyl glucoside and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol, the INCI name of which is Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, sold under the name Montanov® 202 by the company Seppic; the mixture of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside, the INCI name of which is Cetearyl alcohol / cetearyl glucoside sold under the name Montanov® 68 by the company Seppic, and mixtures thereof.

[0250] A composition according to the invention or as employed in accordance with the use according to the invention may comprise between 0.1% and 30% by weight of emulsifying surfactant, preferably between 0.2% and 20% by weight, more preferentially between 0.5% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0251] As emulsifiers that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of glyceryl stearate, polysorbate 60, and the PEG-6 / PEG-32 / Glycol Stearate mixture sold under the name Tefose® 63 by the company Gattefosse.

[0252] Polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide

[0253] A composition according to the invention may comprise a polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide.

[0254] As polycondensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the name Synperonic, for instance Synperonic® PE / F32 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 108), Synperonic® PE / F108 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 338), Synperonic® PE / L44 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 124), Synperonic® PE / L42 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 122), Synperonic® PE / F127 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 407), Synperonic® PE / F88 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 238), Synperonic® PE / L64 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 184) by the company Croda, or else Lutrol® F68 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 188) by the company BASF.

[0255] The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.05% to 1% by weight.

[0256] In addition, in a known manner, a cosmetic composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants that are customary in the cosmetics field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents; hydrophilic or lipophilic additives; preservatives; vitamins; antioxidants; solvents; fragrances; fillers; mineral bases, such as sodium hydroxide; screening agents; odour absorbers and colorants. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field, and for example are from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

[0257] Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid spherules. The amounts of the various constituents of the compositions according to the invention are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration.

[0258] Use and process according to the invention

[0259] According to one embodiment of the invention, the use of a combination or of a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it is intended to stimulate the mitochondrial activity of the cells of the skin. It is more particularly intended to stimulate the mitochondrial respiration of the cells of the skin and / or the production of ATP by the cells of the skin, especially by the epidermal keratinocytes.

[0260] According to another embodiment of the invention, the use according to the invention is characterized in that it is intended for the improvement of the quality of the surface of the skin. It is in particular intended for the improvement of the radiance of the complexion of the skin and / or for the improvement of the texture of the skin and / or for the improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion and / or for the reduction of the microreliefs of the skin. According to another embodiment of the invention, the use according to the invention is characterized in that it is intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin ageing, especially wrinkles and fine lines, and / or to reinforce and / or improve epidermal renewal. In addition, a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for keratin materials according to the invention comprises at least one step of application to the keratin materials of a combination or of a composition according to the invention.

[0261] The keratin material is preferentially the skin, the lips and / or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and in particular is (i) the skin of the body, including the skin of the scalp, and / or (ii) the skin of the face, and more particularly is the skin of the face.

[0262] A non-therapeutic cosmetic process of the invention is in particular characterized in that it is intended to stimulate the mitochondrial activity of the cells of the skin. It is more particularly intended to stimulate the mitochondrial respiration of the cells of the skin and / or the production of ATP by the cells of the skin, especially by the epidermal keratinocytes.

[0263] A non-therapeutic cosmetic process of the invention is in particular characterized in that it is intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin ageing, especially wrinkles and fine lines, and / or to reinforce and / or improve epidermal renewal.

[0264] A non-therapeutic cosmetic process of the invention is in particular characterized in that it is intended for the improvement of the quality of the surface of the skin. It is in particular intended for the improvement of the radiance of the complexion of the skin and / or for the improvement of the texture of the skin and / or for the improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion and / or for the reduction of the microreliefs of the skin.

[0265] A use and a process according to the invention are preferentially implemented by topical administration.

[0266] The topical administration consists of the external application, to the keratin materials, in particular to the skin, more particularly to the skin of the face, of a combination or of a cosmetic composition according to the invention according to the usual techniques of use in this field.

[0267] By way of illustration, the process or the use according to the invention may be implemented by topical application, for example daily, of such a combination or composition. The composition may be formulated, for example, in the form of a cream, gel, serum, lotion, emulsion, makeup-removing milk, stick or after-sun composition, preferably in the form of an emulsion.

[0268] The application may be repeated, for example, once to twice daily for one or more days and generally over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of stoppage. The application may be daily (once a day) and generally over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of stoppage.

[0269] The expressions "between... and...", "comprises from ... to...", "formed from ... to..." and "ranging from... to..." should be understood as being inclusive of the limits, unless otherwise specified.

[0270] The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed as percentages by mass.

[0271] Examples

[0272] Example 1: In vitro tests on the Aureobasidium pullulans extract and the white rose extract with CO2

[0273] Preparation of the active principles of the combination according to the invention

[0274] A. The Aureobasidium pullulans extract of a combination according to the invention used in the examples is obtained from a Aureobasidium pullulans yeast isolated from rose bushes. It is more particularly obtained by the following process: a. Culturing of Aureobasidium pullulans in a suitable culture medium, b. Solubilization of the biomass of the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans in water, at a proportion of 50 g / 1, c. Extraction of the sugars, d. Heat treatment, e. Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, f. Purification by molecular sorting, g. Concentration, and h. Sterilizing filtration.

[0275] This extract of Aureobasidium pullulans possesses the following characteristics:

[0276] - Dry Matter Content = 20.1 g / L, of which:

[0277] - Total Sugar Content (according to the Dubois method) = 6.9 g / L (34%, by weight relative to the dry matter) i. Content of alpha-linked glucose oligosaccharides = 2.5 g / L ii. Content of beta- linked glucose oligosaccharides = 2.5 g / L

[0278] - Peptide content (according to the Kjeldahl method) = 6.6 g / L (33%, by weight relative to the dry matter)

[0279] - Mineral ash content = 2.5 g / L (12%, by weight relative to the dry matter)

[0280] - pH = 3.5

[0281] - Clear liquid, very pale yellow, weak odour.

[0282] Such an Aureobasidium pullulans extract comprises 2.15% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0283] B. The rose bush extract of a combination according to the invention used in the examples is a hybrid rose variety obtained by controlled crossing of two varieties: maternal (Tchaikovsky® Meichibon) and paternal (La Rose du Petit Prince / Rose Synactif by Shiseido® Delgramaue).

[0284] The maternal line is also known by its plant name: Meichibon. The paternal line is also known by its plant name: Delgramaue.

[0285] A protocol implemented for obtaining a "supercritical CO2" extract is the protocol described in patent application WO 2012 / 085366.

[0286] In brief, this protocol consists in obtaining an extract from fresh and / or slightly withered rose flowers, flowering tops and / or leaves according to the invention, comprising the following steps, in which: a) the rose flowers, flowering tops and / or leaves are gathered; b) said freshly gathered flowers, flowering tops and / or leaves are infused in at least one bath comprising an ethanolic solvent, at a temperature of less than 50°C, for example at ambient temperature, so as to obtain an alcoholic mixture (in this case an ethanolic mixture); c) said alcoholic mixture is filtered so as to recover an alcoholic floral infusion; and d) extraction with supercritical CO2 (referred to as CO2sc extraction in Figure 1) of the alcoholic floral infusion is performed in order to obtain said extract, at 45°C and at a pressure of 150 bar; and e) said extract is concentrated under moderate vacuum (100 to 500 mbar), at a temperature not exceeding 60 °C. Such a rose bush extract comprises 15% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0287] Evaluation of the effect of a combination to the invention on the mitochondrial keratinocytes

[0288] The effect of the Aureobasidium pullulans extract and rose bush extract (Absolue Perpetual Rose™) mentioned above and the combination thereof was evaluated on the mitochondrial respiration in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) by measuring the production of ATP (adenosine triphosphate), basal respiration and maximum respiration after 24 hours of incubation using Seahorse technology.

[0289] Specifically, the respiration corresponds to the consumption of oxygen by the cells for normal energy activity. The higher the value, the more active the cell.

[0290] The production of ATP is directly proportional to the energy requirement of the cell.

[0291] The maximum respiration is thus directly proportional to the "metabolic agility" of the cell. The higher the value, the more responsive / reactive the system.

[0292] Prior to this assay, a cytotoxicity test was performed on NHEK cells using a standard WST- 8 reduction assay in order to determine the concentrations to be tested in this study. The compounds were tested at concentrations that are not cytotoxic.

[0293] Cell type: Normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK)

[0294] Culture conditions: 37°C, 5% CO2

[0295] Culture medium: DermaLife K

[0296] Assay in culture medium: DermaLife K

[0297] Concentrations tested:

[0298] - Aureobasidium pullulans extract: 0.013% and 0.04% by weight of the extract relative to the total weight of the composition in DMSO;

[0299] - rose bush extract: 0.00033% and 0.001% of the extract relative to the total weight of the composition in DMSO. These extracts were tested separately at these concentrations, and also in combination:

[0300] (i) Aureobasidium pullulans extract 1.3xl0‘2% + rose bush extract 3.3xl0'4%; and

[0301] (ii) Aureobasidium pullulans extract 4xl0'2% + rose bush extract lxl0'3%.

[0302] The keratinocytes were seeded in specific Seahorse 24-well plates and incubated in a culture medium for 48 hours. The medium was then replaced with an assay medium containing or not containing (control) the tested compounds, the combination or the control solvent (DMSO at 0.01%), and the cells were incubated for 2 hours or 24 hours before evaluating the mitochondrial respiration.

[0303] All of the experimental conditions were performed in n = 3.

[0304] Evaluation of the mitochondrial activity

[0305] The Seahorse XF technology (Agilent) measures the mitochondrial respiration in real time in a microchamber.

[0306] The day before the test, the detection cartridge was hydrated overnight according to the supplier's instructions. At the end of the incubation time, the cell growth medium was replaced with DMEM without serum and without sodium bicarbonate and the cells were incubated in an incubator for 1 hour at 37°C without CO2 according to the supplier's instructions. The oxygen consumption rate (OCR) and the extracellular acidification rate (ECAR) were monitored under basal conditions and after injection of oligomycin (1 pM), carbonyl cyanide-4-(trifhioromethoxy)phenylhydrazone (FCCP, 1 pM) and rotenone / antimycin A (R / AA, 1 pM) successively into the well using a dedicated protocol (Seahorse XF Cell Mito Stress Test Kit).

[0307] Oligomycin inhibits ATP synthase (complex V of the mitochondrial electron transport chain (ETC)), and is injected first in the assay after the basal measurements. It affects or decreases the flow of electrons through the ETC, resulting in a reduction in the mitochondrial respiration or OCR. This decrease in the OCR is associated with cellular ATP production. Carbonyl cyanide-4-(trifluoromethoxy)phenylhydrazone (FCCP) is an uncoupling agent that destroys the proton gradient and disrupts the mitochondrial membrane potential. This is the 2nd injection after the oligomycin. As a result, the flow of electrons through the ETC is disinhibited and the consumption of oxygen by complex IV reaches a maximum. The FCCP- stimulated OCR can then be used to calculate the available respiratory capacity, defined as the difference between maximum respiration and basal respiration. The available respiratory capacity is a measure of the cell's capacity to respond to increased energy demand or stress. The third injection is a mixture of rotenone, a complex I inhibitor, and antimycin A, a complex III inhibitor. This combination stops mitochondrial respiration and makes it possible to calculate the non-mitochondrial respiration driven by processes external to the mitochondria.

[0308] The results obtained after analysis are presented below.

[0309] The statistical analyses were performed using ANOVA analysis of variance followed by Dunnett's post test.

[0310] The results are expressed as mean ± standard error (SEM) and the difference is considered to be significant at p < 0.05 (*).

[0311] Results

[0312] The validation of the Seahorse technology was based on the oxygen consumption profile of the untreated cells. This oxygen consumption profile was consistent for all the Seahorse steps. When the oligomycin, an ATP synthase inhibitor, was added, ATP production was effectively inhibited. Thereafter, treatment with FCCP stimulated the cellular respiration until the maximum respiratory rate of the keratinocytes was reached.

[0313] The effects of the compounds tested, of the combination or of the control solvent on the mitochondrial respiration are presented in Figures 2, 3 and 4.

[0314] Under our conditions, neither the Aureobasidium pullulans extract alone nor the rose bush extract alone improved the mitochondrial respiration.

[0315] Conversely, and unexpectedly, a combination of these active agents in accordance with the invention significantly and synergistically stimulates the mitochondrial respiration.

[0316] By combining 1.3xl0'2% of Aureobasidium pullulans extract with 3.3xl0'4% of rose bush extract according to a combination in accordance with the invention, the following is observed:

[0317] - an increase in ATP production of +31%; - an increase in the basal respiration of +29%; and

[0318] - an increase in the maximum respiration of +46%.

[0319] By combining 4xl0'2% of Aureobasidium pullulans extract with lxl0'3% of rose bush extract, the following is observed: - an increase in ATP production of +23%;

[0320] - an increase in the basal respiration of +20%; and

[0321] - an increase in the maximum respiration of +25%.

[0322] These results thus illustrate the interest of combining an Aureobasidium pullulans extract and a rose bush extract in accordance with the present invention in order to stimulate energy metabolism.

[0323] Example 2; In vivo effect of a combination according to the invention used in a cosmetic composition

[0324] A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention, of the face cream type as defined below in Table 1, was prepared and tested.

[0325] [Table 1]

[0326] * the Aureobasidium pullulans extract according to Example 1 A. is incorporated into the composition in the form of a mixture comprising 2.15% by weight of dry matter of Aureobasidium pullulans extract, 15% by weight of propylene glycol, qs water. * the rose bush extract Absolue Perpetual Rose™ according to Example 1 B. is incorporated into the composition in the form of a mixture comprising 15% by weight of dry matter of rose bush extract and 85% by weight of ethanol.

[0327] This composition was applied for 56 days to the whole face of 69 Asian women in good health, from 45 to 65 years of age and having all types of skin, 50% of whom had sensitive skin (declarative), having the following clinical scores on the face, according to a modified 10-point Griffiths scale (0 = none and 9 = severe):

[0328] - a lack of radiance of the skin (visual), inclusion grade > 3 and < 6;

[0329] - a lack of softness of the skin (tactile), inclusion grade > 3 and < 6; - visible fine lines (visual), inclusion grade > 3 and < 6.

[0330] The application was performed as follows:

[0331] -> Wash-out from D-14 to DO and persistence from D56 to D61

[0332] Morning: usual neutral cream + SPF L'OREAL PARIS UV Expert SPF50 + L’Oreal Paris - UV Perfect City Resist 8

[0333] Evening: usual neutral cream

[0334] ->Test period from DO to D56: twice-daily application of the composition according to the invention. Morning: Composition according to the invention + SPF L'OREAL PARIS UV Expert SPF50 + L’ Oreal Paris - UV Perfect City Resist 8 Evening: Composition according to the invention.

[0335] Evaluation This evaluation consisted of a complete clinical scoring by a dermatologist on DO, D14, D28,

[0336] D56, D61 (D56 + 5 days of persistence) of the parameters of interest on a 10-point scale.

[0337] Results

[0338] Table 2 below illustrates the change with respect to Dx compared to the initial value at DO.

[0339] [Table 2] *: evaluation of the persistence with respect to baseline, without application of the product tested between D61 and DO.

[0340] J, : statistically significant decrease in the scores

[0341] S: comparison statistically significant at 5%

[0342] NS: statistically non-significant comparison.

[0343] All results obtained reached the threshold of clinical relevance.

[0344] After 14 days of application of the composition according to the invention, the results were evaluated by a dermatologist. They observed a statistically significant and clinically relevant decrease in:

[0345] - the radiance of the complexion of the skin, with an improvement of 13.7%;

[0346] - the visibility of fine lines, with an improvement of 11%;

[0347] - the smooth texture of the skin, with an improvement of 20.9%.

[0348] After 28 days of application of the composition according to the invention, the results were evaluated by a dermatologist. They observed a statistically significant and clinically relevant decrease in:

[0349] - the radiance of the complexion of the skin, with an improvement of 24.2%;

[0350] - the visibility of fine lines, with an improvement of 24.8%;

[0351] - the smooth texture of the skin, with an improvement of 25.7%.

[0352] After 56 days of application of the composition according to the invention, the results were evaluated by a dermatologist. They observed a statistically significant and clinically relevant decrease in:

[0353] - the radiance of the complexion of the skin, with an improvement of 32.2%;

[0354] - the visibility of fine lines, with an improvement of 31.7%;

[0355] - the smooth texture of the skin, with an improvement of 35.1%.

[0356] The topical application of a composition according to the invention thus makes it possible to improve the radiance of the complexion of the skin, to improve the texture of the skin and to reduce the signs of skin ageing, such as fine lines. Example 3; In vivo effect of a combination according to the invention used in a cosmetic composition

[0357] A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention, of the face cream type as defined below in Table 3, was prepared and tested.

[0358] [Table 3] >

[0359] * the Aureobasidium pullulans extract according to Example 1 A. is incorporated into the composition in the form of a mixture comprising 2.15% by weight of dry matter of

[0360] Aureobasidium pullulans extract, 15% by weight of propylene glycol, qs water.

[0361] * the rose bush extract Absolue Perpetual Rose™ according to Example 1 B. is incorporated into the composition in the form of a mixture comprising 15% by weight of dry matter of rose bush extract and 85% by weight of ethanol.

[0362] This composition was applied for 56 days to the area around the eyes of 59 Asian women in good health, from 45 to 65 years of age and having all types of skin, 50% of whom had sensitive skin (declarative), having the following clinical scores on the area around the eyes, according to a modified 10-point Griffiths scale (0 = none and 9 = severe):

[0363] - dull complexion / lack of radiance of the skin, inclusion grade > 3 and < 6; and

[0364] - smooth texture of the skin (visual), inclusion grade > 3 and < 6.

[0365] The application was performed as follows:

[0366] -^Neutral cream for the volunteers, twice-daily morning and evening

[0367] During the wash-out period (from -D14 to DO of the study), the volunteers use their usual neutral cream on the face, avoiding the area around the eyes

[0368] During the period of application of the composition according to the invention to the area around the eyes (from DO to D56), the volunteers use their usual neutral cream on the face, avoiding the area around the eyes.

[0369] During the period of persistence (from D57 to D63), the volunteers stop the application of the composition according to the invention and use their usual neutral cream on the face, avoiding the area around the eyes.

[0370] -^Composition according to the invention, twice-daily morning and evening

[0371] During the test period from DO to D56, application twice-daily in the morning and evening to the area around the eyes. Evaluation

[0372] This evaluation consisted of clinical scoring by a dermatologist of the parameters studied on a 10-point scale at TO, T2 weeks, T4 weeks, T8 weeks and T9 weeks (T8 weeks + 1 week of persistence). Results

[0373] Table 4 below illustrates the evolution of various parameters from TO to Tx.

[0374] [Table 4]

[0375] *: evaluation of the persistence with respect to the initial situation, without application of the product tested between weeks T9 and T8. : statistically significant decrease in the scores

[0376] S: comparison statistically significant at 5%

[0377] NS: statistically non-significant comparison After 4 weeks of application of the composition according to the invention, the results show a statistically significant improvement of the following criteria according to the clinical evaluation of a dermatologist: - Radiance / Dull complexion, with an improvement of 21.6%;

[0378] - Smoothing of the skin, with an improvement of 13.8%.

[0379] After 8 weeks of application of the composition according to the invention, the results show a statistically significant improvement of the following criteria according to the clinical evaluation of a dermatologist: - Radiance / Dull complexion, with an improvement of 38.1%;

[0380] - Smoothing of the skin, with an improvement of 26.4%.

[0381] The topical application of a composition according to the invention thus makes it possible to improve the radiance of the complexion of the skin, to improve the homogeneity of the complexion and to improve the texture of the skin.

Claims

Claims1. Combination comprising at least one extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans and at least one rose bush extract; the extract of Aureobasidium pullulans comprising at least 25% sugars by weight of dry matter of the extract.

2. Combination according to Claim 1, characterized in that the yeast is isolated from rose bushes, more preferentially from the flowers and / or the thorns and / or the roots of Rosa sp., in particular from the roots of Rosa sp.

3. Combination according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the extract of Aureobasidium pullulans comprises at least 45% sugars, by weight of dry matter of the extract, and in particular the sugars of the extract are composed of at least 80% oligosaccharides, by weight of dry matter of the sugars, said oligosaccharides preferably being alpha-linked glucose oligosaccharides and / or beta-linked glucose oligosaccharides and said oligosaccharides having, for example, a molar mass of less than 1800 Da.

4. Combination according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the extract of Aureobasidium pullulans is capable of being obtained by a process comprising the following steps: a. culturing of Aureobasidium pullulans biomass in a culture medium, b. solubilization of at least 50 g / L of Aureobasidium pullulans in water, c. extraction, preferentially extraction of the sugars, d. heat treatment, e. separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, and recovery of the soluble phase, f. purification by molecular sorting, and optionally decolourization and deodorization, and g. optionally concentration and sterilizing filtration.

5. Combination according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that:- the rose bush is a hybrid obtained by crossing the varieties Meichibon x Delgramaue; and / or- the extract of Aureobasidium pullulans is not an extract of the culture supernatant of Aureobasidium pullulans.

6. Combination according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the rose bush extract is obtained from flowers, flowering tops, and / or leaves of said rose bush.

7. Combination according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the rose bush extract is obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 of an alcoholic mixture of all or part of said rose bush.

8. Combination according to Claim 7, characterized in that the alcoholic mixture is obtained after infusion of all or part of said rose bush in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent, at a temperature of less than 50°C, so as to obtain an alcoholic mixture.

9. Combination according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the [extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans / mse bush extract] mass ratio is greater than 1, preferably greater than 2, more particularly greater than 5, and in particular is between 1 and 1000, especially between 2 and 900, more particularly between 5 and 800, and especially between 6 and 717.

10. Composition, especially cosmetic, non-therapeutic composition, comprising at least, as active principle, a combination as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 9 in a physiologically acceptable medium.

11. Composition according to Claim 10, wherein the Aureobasidium pullulans extract is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight of dry matter, preferably ranging from 0.001% to 8% by weight of dry matter, more preferentially ranging from 0.01% to 6% by weight of dry matter, and better still ranging from 0.1% to 6% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of the composition, and may be present in the composition in a content of at least 0.1% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to Claim 10 or 11, wherein the rose bush extract is present in the composition in a content of at least 0.00001% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a content of between 0.0001% and 1% by weight of dry matter, more particularly in a content of at least 0.0001% by weight of dry matter, especially in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 0.1% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Use of a combination according to any one of Claims 1 to 9 or of a composition according to any one of Claims 10 to 12, intended to stimulate the mitochondrial activity of the cells of the skin, in particular the mitochondrial respiration of the cells of theskin and / or the production of ATP by the cells of the skin, especially by the epidermal keratinocytes.

14. Use of a combination according to any one of Claims 1 to 9 or of a composition according to any one of Claims 10 to 12, intended for the improvement of the quality of the surface of the skin, in particular for the improvement of the radiance of the complexion of the skin and / or for the improvement of the texture of the skin and / or for the improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion and / or for the reduction of the microreliefs of the skin.

15. Use of a combination according to any one of Claims 1 to 9 or of a composition according to any one of Claims 10 to 12, intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin ageing, especially wrinkles and fine lines, and / or to reinforce and / or improve epidermal renewal.

16. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for keratin materials, comprising at least one step of application to said keratin materials, preferably to the skin, of a combination according to any one of Claims 1 to 9 or of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 10 to 12.

17. Process according to Claim 16, wherein the keratin material is the skin, the lips and / or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and in particular is (i) the skin of the body, including the skin of the scalp, and / or (ii) the skin of the face, and more particularly is the skin of the face.

18. Process according to Claim 16, characterized in that it is intended to stimulate the mitochondrial activity of the cells of the skin, in particular the mitochondrial respiration of the cells of the skin and / or the production of ATP by the cells of the skin, especially by the epidermal keratinocytes.

19. Process according to Claim 16, characterized in that it is intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin ageing, especially wrinkles and fine lines, and / or to reinforce and / or improve epidermal renewal.

20. Process according to Claim 16, characterized in that it is intended for the moisturization of the skin and / or the improvement of the quality of the surface of the skin, in particular the improvement of the radiance of the complexion of the skin and / or the improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion and / or the reduction of the microreliefs of the skin.

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