Cosmetic composition of oil-in-water emulsion type, based on a lamellar phase structure
A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion with a lamellar phase structure, incorporating specific fatty alcohols, surfactants, polyacrylamide, and carboxyvinyl polymers, addresses the challenge of balancing sensory qualities and stability, achieving a 'bouncy' effect without using silicones.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2024/087935
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-20
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-20
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-26
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions with lamellar phase structures struggle to balance sensory qualities, such as a pleasant texture and absence of adverse effects, while maintaining stability and performance.
A cosmetic composition comprising a C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol, an anionic surfactant with a C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, a polyacrylamide polymer, and a carboxyvinyl polymer, which together form a lamellar phase structure that provides a 'bouncy' effect without using silicone compounds.
The composition achieves a desirable sensory feel and visual appearance, characterized by a 'bouncy' effect, while maintaining stability and performance over time, even under varying storage conditions.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] Description
[0002] Title: Cosmetic composition of oil-in-water emulsion type, based on a lamellar phase structure
[0003] Technical field
[0004] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, based on a structure of specific lamellar phases and which affords advantageous sensory properties that are appreciated by users when it is applied to a keratin material.
[0005] The term “keratin material” notably means the skin, the scalp, keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, head hair, bodily hair, the nails, and mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin (body, face, neck, area around the eyes, eyelids).
[0006] Prior art
[0007] The type of presentation form considered in the present invention is a lamellar-phase oil-in- water emulsion stabilized by the presence of at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol and at least one anionic surfactant including at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain. This presentation form has notably been described in patent applications WO 2018 / 108 878 and WO 2020 / 002 538, for developing compositions intended for masking skin imperfections, moisturizing the skin and / or treating the signs of skin ageing, in particular the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, particularly as they increase with age.
[0008] Unfortunately, it proves difficult to reconcile, within the same composition, satisfaction of the abovementioned objectives with additional requirements, notably in terms of sensory quality.
[0009] Specifically, for obvious reasons, users moreover wish to have compositions that are pleasant to apply, which feel gentle and which are free of any adverse sensory effects. However, compositions having the abovementioned presentation form may have a texture not having the desired visual and / or haptic properties, notably the characterizable visually and / or tactile “bouncy” effect, which is particularly appreciated by users. Disclosure of the invention
[0010] The object of the present invention is, precisely, to propose a presentation formulation which allows all the abovementioned requirements to be met, without having to resort to the use of silicone compounds.
[0011] More specifically, the object of the present invention is to develop compositions with lamellar- phase oil-in-water architecture, offering advantageous visual and sensory qualities, and in particular a characterizable visually and / or tactile “bouncy” effect.
[0012] An object of the present invention is also to develop compositions with lamellar-phase oil-in- water architecture in accordance with the preceding requirements and which also have satisfactory stability on storage and with respect to temperature.
[0013] Summary of the invention
[0014] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:
[0015] (a) at least one C16-C22 and preferably C16-C18 saturated fatty alcohol;
[0016] (b) at least one anionic surfactant including at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain; and comprising at least one sulfonate function;
[0017] (c) at least one polyacrylamide polymer chosen from copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid and mixtures thereof; and
[0018] (d) at least one carboxyvinyl polymer chosen from:
[0019] - copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer chosen from a,P- ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or esters thereof, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer including a hydrophobic group;
[0020] - crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers;
[0021] - poly acrylate crosspolymer- 6.
[0022] As illustrated in the examples hereinbelow, the inventors have discovered that the use of at least one carboxyvinyl polymer (d) in accordance with the invention, in a composition with a lamellar phase structure, makes it possible to impart original properties to this composition, in particular in terms of sensory feel and visual appearance, notably characterized by a “bouncy” effect, without otherwise impairing its stability and other performance qualities.
[0023] For the purposes of the present invention, the “bouncy” effect characterizes a particular visual and sensory perception of the composition by the user. Firstly, the user has a visual perception of a dense, domed composition when it is contained in its receptacle. Furthermore, when the user's finger is dipped into this composition to take up a sample, they have a heightened tactile sense of the composition's resistance and suppleness.
[0024] A subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in which a composition as defined previously is applied to said keratin material.
[0025] A subject of the present invention is also the use of a composition as defined previously in the cosmetic field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up the skin of the body or face, or for haircare.
[0026] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the detailed description that follows.
[0027] In the text hereinbelow, the expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more” and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range.
[0028] Detailed description
[0029] The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and / or dermatological, and is preferably cosmetic. The term “cosmetic” refers to a composition that is compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and the integuments. The composition according to the invention is non- therapeutic.
[0030] The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin.
[0031] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tautness or redness, liable to discourage the user from applying this composition.
[0032] C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a)
[0033] The term “saturated fatty alcohol” means any alcohol comprising a linear saturated (containing no covalent double or triple bonds) hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a linear alkyl radical, said chain comprising between 16 and 22 carbon atoms and a hydroxyl function. For the purposes of the invention, the term “hydrocarbon-based chain” means an organic group predominantly or even exclusively formed from hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms. In particular, this chain is free of silicon atoms and is thus not silicone-based.
[0034] The saturated fatty alcohol (a) present in the composition in accordance with the invention comprises between 16 and 22 carbon atoms, preferably between 16 and 18 carbon atoms.
[0035] The saturated fatty alcohol (a) present in the composition in accordance with the invention is solid at room temperature (20°C ± 5 °C) and advantageously has an -OH function at the end of the chain.
[0036] The saturated fatty alcohol (a) that is suitable for use in the present invention may notably be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0037] Particularly preferably, the composition according to the invention contains at least one saturated fatty alcohol (a) chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol (also known as cetearyl alcohol).
[0038] Preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of Ci6 and Cis fatty alcohols (a). More preferentially, the composition comprises at least a mixture of cetyl (Ci6) and stearyl (Cis) alcohols, also known as cetylstearyl alcohol.
[0039] More preferably, the composition comprises a mixture of at least two saturated Ci6 and Cis fatty alcohols, respectively, preferably in a Ci6 fatty alcohol(s) / Cis fatty alcohol(s) mass ratio ranging from 20 / 80 to 80 / 20 and advantageously in a Ci6 fatty alcohol(s) / Cis fatty alcohol(s) mass ratio equal to 50 / 50.
[0040] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 2.5% to 7% by weight of saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0041] Anionic surfactant(s) including at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain (b)
[0042] The anionic surfactant (b) that is useful in the context of the invention comprises at least one C16-C22 and preferably Ci6-Cis hydrocarbon-based chain. This chain may be linear, saturated (not containing any double or triple covalent bonds) or unsaturated (possibly containing one or more double and / or triple covalent bonds). Preferably, the anionic surfactant (b) that is useful in the context of the invention comprises only one saturated or unsaturated linear hydrocarbon-based chain.
[0043] In particular, the anionic surfactant (b) contains only one C16-C22 and preferably C16-C18 hydrocarbon-based chain.
[0044] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from surfactants also comprising at least one sulfonate function, notably as defined hereinbelow in formula (I), and mixtures thereof.
[0045] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function, and mixtures thereof.
[0046] More particularly, the anionic surfactant (b) may be chosen from the surfactants of general formula (I):
[0047] [Chem 1]
[0048] RCOY(CH2)nSO3M (I) in which:
[0049] - R represents a saturated linear or branched C16-C22 alkyl group;
[0050] - Y represents -O- or -NR4- with R4 representing a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl group;
[0051] - M is chosen from the group formed by a hydrogen atom, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal cations, ammonium salts and organic amines;
[0052] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3; and mixtures thereof.
[0053] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from (Ci6-C22)alkylsulfonate salts, (Ci6-C22)alkylamidesulfonate salts, (Ci6-C22)alkylarylsulfonate salts, (Ci6-C22)alkylsulfoacetate salts, N-(Ci6-C22)acyl-N-(Ci-C6)alkyltaurate salts, (Ci6- C22)acylisethionate salts, (Ci6-C22)alkylsulfolaurate salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0054] Preferentially, the anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from:
[0055] - acylisethionates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms;
[0056] - N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or the cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, the alkyl group is a methyl; and - mixtures thereof; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
[0057] As N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, mention may be made of sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate sold under the name Nikkol PMT® by the company Nikkol; the sodium salt of N-stearoyl N- methyltaurate (sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate) sold under the name Nikkol SMT by the company Nikko.
[0058] In particular, the anionic surfactant (b) is at least sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate.
[0059] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (b) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0060] In the compositions in accordance with the invention, the fatty alcohol(s) (a) / anionic surfactant(s) (b) mass ratio may range from 10 / 1 to 6 / 4, preferably from 19 / 2 to 7 / 3, and even more preferentially from 9 / 1 to 7 / 2.
[0061] Without wishing to be bound by any theory, it appears that the fatty alcohol(s) (a) and the anionic surfactant(s) (b) including at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain form, with the hydrophilic phase, an alpha crystalline phase, also referred to as alpha gel. This phase may notably be characterized by DSC analysis and by X-ray diffraction at a temperature lower than the melting point of the alpha gel phase.
[0062] Thus, the composition in accordance with the invention is capable of forming crystalline lamellar phases.
[0063] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention contain at least one swollen alpha-crystalline phase having a swelling period of greater than 10 nm, preferably greater than 12 nm and even more preferentially greater than or equal to 15 nm. The period is defined as being the sum of the thickness of a bilayer formed by the fatty alcohol(s) (a) and the anionic surfactant(s) (b) and the thickness of the water layer between two leaflets, this unit being repeated several times. According to a particular embodiment, in a composition according to the invention, the difference between the number of carbon atoms in the hydrocarbon-based chain of the anionic surfactant(s) (b) and the number of carbon atoms in the fatty alcohol(s) (a) must not differ by more than 5 carbon atoms, and is preferentially less than or equal to 4.
[0064] Polyacrylamide polymer(s) (c)
[0065] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyacrylamide polymer (c) chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0066] The polyacrylamide polymers (c) that may be suitable for use in the context of the present invention may be nonionic, including branched or unbranched substituted polymers.
[0067] Among the polyacrylamide polymers (c), mention may be made, for example, of the acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers sold under the name Simulgel™ 600 (C.T.F.A. name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate / sodium acrylate (Simulgel™ EG from SEPPIC); sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate / hydroxy ethyl acrylate (Simulgel™ NS from SEPPIC); ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinyl pyrrolidone copolymer, such as the product sold under the name Aristoflex® A VC by the company Clariant.
[0068] Other polyacrylamide polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention include multiblock copolymers of acrylamides and of acrylamides substituted with acrylic acids and with substituted acrylic acids. Among the commercially available examples of these multiblock copolymers, mention may be made of acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer such as the product sold by the company Clariant under the name Aristoflex® HMS, acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer (Aristoflex® SNC from Clariant), acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer (Aristoflex® HMB from Clariant) and copolymers sold under the names Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSA100H, from Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
[0069] A mixture of the copolymers mentioned previously may be used.
[0070] In particular, the polyacrylamide polymer (c) is the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinyl pyrrolidone copolymer. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 4% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight of polyacrylamide polymer(s) (c), relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0071] Carboxyvinyl polymer(s) (d)
[0072] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one carboxy vinyl polymer (d). Needless to say, the carboxyvinyl polymers (d) are different from the polyacrylamide polymers (c) described above.
[0073] According to a particular embodiment, the carboxyvinyl polymers (d) are crosslinked.
[0074] According to a particular embodiment, the carboxyvinyl polymers (d) are modified or unmodified, and may be homopolymers or copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer chosen from a,P-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or esters thereof, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer including a hydrophobic group.
[0075] The term "copolymers" means both copolymers obtained from two types of monomer and those obtained from more than two types of monomer, such as terpolymers obtained from three types of monomer.
[0076] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. The term “hydrophobic group or unit” means a radical with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and even more particularly from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0077] In particular, these copolymers are chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization:
[0078] - of at least one monomer of formula (II) below: [Chem 2] in which Ri denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid monomers, and
[0079] - of at least one monomer corresponding to the monomer of formula (III) below:
[0080] [Chem 3] in which R2 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, i.e. acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units, and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3 (methacrylate units), and R3 is a hydrogen atom.
[0081] In particular, the copolymers may be derived from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:
[0082] - essentially acrylic acid,
[0083] - a compound of formula (III) described above in which R2 denotes H or CH3, and R3 is a hydrogen atom, and
[0084] - a crosslinking agent, which is, for example, a copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and allyl ethers of pentaerythritol or of sucrose.
[0085] More particularly, the carboxyvinyl copolymers may be copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and of an alkyl acrylate chain crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol or sucrose. Mention may notably be made of the copolymers having the following INCI names: Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, for instance those sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Carbopol® Ultrez 21 Polymer, Carbopol® 1342, 1382, and those sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen™ TR-1 or Pemulen™ TR-2, the latter being particularly advantageous with regard to its more pronounced hydrophobic nature.
[0086] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the carboxyvinyl polymers (d) used are unmodified, and are in particular homopolymers.
[0087] The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may also be chosen from crosslinked or non-crosslinked, in particular crosslinked, (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “(meth) acrylic” means “acrylic or methacrylic”.
[0088] As examples of crosslinked or non-crosslinked, in particular crosslinked, (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers, mention may be made, for example, of:
[0089] - the polymer having the INCI name Carbomer, in particular the polymers sold under the following names: Carbopol® 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984 from the company Lubrizol, Synthalen® K, Synthalen® L, or Synthalen® M from the company 3V- Sigma, Ashland™ 980 MS Carbomer from the company Ashland, Acrypol® 980 from the company Corel Pharma Chem, or TC-Carbomer 980 MS from the company Guangzhou Tinci Materials Technology.
[0090] As a carboxyvinyl polymer, use may also be made of the polymer having the INCI name Polyacrylate Crosspolymer- 6, in particular sold under the name Sepimax Zen™ by the company SEPPIC. This polymer is an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / N,N- dimethylacrylamide / tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate terpolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
[0091] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise a carboxyvinyl polymer (d) chosen from polymers having the INCI name: Carbomer, Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer- 6, and mixtures thereof.
[0092] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.1% to 3.5% by weight of carboxy vinyl polymer(s) (d), relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0093] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise less than 2% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, of silicone compound(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly may be free of silicone compound(s).
[0094] The term “silicone compounds” (also called silicones) means any silicone compounds that are liable to be used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields, i.e. inorganic compounds formed at least from a mixture of silicon and oxygen, notably including silicone oils, silicone surfactants, dimethylsiloxane polymers, volatile or functionalized silicones, silicone elastomers, silicone resins, phenyl silicones or amino silicones.
[0095] Preferentially, a composition according to the invention may comprise less than 2% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, more particularly less than 0.5% by weight, even more particularly less than 0.1% by weight of clay(s), notably including unmodified and / or modified clay(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and may notably be free of clay(s). The clays may be natural or synthetic, in particular unmodified or modified. As unmodified clays, mention may be made, for example, of bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.
[0096] As modified clays, mention may be made, for example, of lipophilic clays such as hectorites rendered lipophilic (modified) by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C10-C22 ammonium chloride, in particular distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the modified clay stearalkonium hectorite.
[0097] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise:
[0098] - as polyacrylamide polymer (c), at least one ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer; and
[0099] - at least one carboxy vinyl polymer (d), in particular including at least the polymer having the INCI name Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.
[0100] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises:
[0101] - from 2% to 10% by weight of saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol;
[0102] - from 0.05% to 5% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (b) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate;
[0103] - from 0.05% to 5% by weight of polyacrylamide polymer(s) (c) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least one polyacrylamide polymer chosen from the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer; and
[0104] - 0.01% to 5% by weight of carboxyvinyl polymer(s) (d), including at least one carboxyvinyl polymer chosen from polymers having the INCI name: carbomer, Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer- 6, and mixtures thereof.
[0105] Oil(s)
[0106] A composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more oils. They may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
[0107] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “oz'Z” means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C ± 5°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). In other words, for the purposes of the present invention, an oil has a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C.
[0108] Thus, according to a particular variant, a composition according to the invention may contain at least one hydrocarbon-based oil.
[0109] For the purposes of the present invention, the term ^hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
[0110] According to a preferred variant, a composition according to the invention does not contain any silicone oil.
[0111] The term “silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and notably an Si-0 group.
[0112] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one hydrocarbon-based (non- silicone) oil chosen from Cs-Cao alkane oils, ester oils, C12- C26 liquid fatty alcohols, C19-C22 fatty acids and carbonate oils, notably as detailed hereinbelow, and in particular contains at least one C10-C20 alkane oil, an ester oil and / or a C19-C22 liquid fatty alcohol.
[0113] As hydrocarbon-based oils that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made most particularly of:
[0114] - branched alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, notably Cs-Ci6 alkanes, for instance Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof;
[0115] - linear alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, for instance n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof; or a mixture of alkanes of 15 to 19 carbon atoms (called Cl 5- 19 Alkane), for example the products sold under the references Emogreen™ L15 and Emosmart L19 by the company SEPPIC; - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof;
[0116] - hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths of from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are notably wheatgerm oil, rice bran oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, com oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, Limnanthes alba seed oil (INCI name: Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil); or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel. Mention may also be made of cocoyl caprylate / caprate, for example sold under the name Cetiol LC by the company Cognis or under the name DUB 810 C by the company Stearinerie Dubois;
[0117] - synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether;
[0118] - synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R5COOR6, in which R5 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and Re represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R5 + Re is greater than or equal to 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates containing between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X- Tend 226 by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate or (Z)-octadec-9-enyl (Z)-docos-13-enoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by the company Stearinerie Dubois, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters, in particular pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate (INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate); dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, citrates, such as the ester of C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid and of Ci-Ce alcohols, having the INCI name Triethyl Citrate, for example the product sold under the name Citrofol Al Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer; tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates containing 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also linear dialkyl tartrates containing between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates;
[0119] - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate;
[0120] - esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) with acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; more particularly chosen from the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: bis- behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof;
[0121] - fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL205 from Ajinomoto;
[0122] - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and optionally unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, for example sold under the name Eutanol® G by the company BASF, 2-butyloctanol or 2- undecylpentadecanol;
[0123] - higher C19-C22 fatty acids;
[0124] - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis; and
[0125] - mixtures thereof.
[0126] Waxes
[0127] A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one wax, notably a wax of plant origin with a melting point above 25°C.
[0128] For the purposes of the invention, these waxes are to be distinguished from the saturated fatty alcohols (a) described above.
[0129] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25 °C), with a solid / liquid reversible change of state. For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3:1999.
[0130] The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. The measuring protocol is as follows: a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
[0131] As waxes of plant origin with a melting point above 25 °C that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:
[0132] - carnauba wax;
[0133] - candelilla wax, in particular the commercial reference Candelilla Wax SP 75 G from the company Strahl & Pitsch;
[0134] - lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins, oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof;
[0135] - rice bran wax;
[0136] - ouricury wax;
[0137] - esparto grass wax;
[0138] - cork fibre wax:
[0139] - sugar cane wax;
[0140] - Japan wax;
[0141] - sumac wax;
[0142] - montan wax;
[0143] - orange wax, in particular the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen;
[0144] - laurel wax; - sunflower wax;
[0145] - lemon wax;
[0146] - olive wax;
[0147] - berry wax;
[0148] - beeswax, in particular the product sold under the name White Beeswax SP 453P by the company Strahl & Pitsch or Cerabeil Lor by the company Baerlocher;
[0149] - buckwheat wax, in particular the product sold by the company Codif;
[0150] - waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with C12-C18 fatty alcohols, in particular those sold by the company Sophim in the Phytowax® range (12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57);
[0151] - partially hydrogenated wax esters of jojoba oil;
[0152] - hydrogenated jojoba oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated jojoba oil), in particular sold by the company Desert Whale under the name Jojoba Wax Flakes;
[0153] - isomerized jojoba oil, in particular the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the trade name Iso- Jojoba™ 500;
[0154] - fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, in particular the mixture of three waxes jojoba esters & Helianthus annuus seed wax & Acacia decurrens extract and polyglyceryl, in particular the product sold under the name Hydracire S® or Acticire® by the company Gattefosse,
[0155] - hydrogenated glycerol esters, in particular the product sold under the name Cegesoft® HF 52 by the company Cognis (BASF), a mixture of hydrogenated rapeseed and palm oils, or the product sold under the name Softisan® 100 Cremer by the company Oleo;
[0156] - partially hydrogenated olive oil, in particular the compound sold under the name Beurrolive by the company Soliance;
[0157] - hydrogenated sunflower oil;
[0158] - hydrogenated castor oil;
[0159] - hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, in particular Thixinr® from Rheox;
[0160] - hydrogenated coconut kernel oil;
[0161] - hydrogenated palm oil;
[0162] - hydrogenated coconut oil;
[0163] - hydrogenated cocoglycerides;
[0164] - the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol;
[0165] - and / or mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least hydrogenated jojoba oil.
[0166] The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 3% by weight and even more particularly from 0.1% to 2% by weight of wax(es), notably of wax(es) of plant origin, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0167] Oily phase
[0168] As emerges from the foregoing, the composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase.
[0169] The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range, for example, from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 35% by weight, better still from 5% to 30% by weight, and even better still from 6% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0170] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 8% by weight of an oily phase formed from one or more non-silicone oils. In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone oil in an amount of greater than or equal to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range, for example, from 9% to 50% by weight and preferably from 10% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0171] This amount of oily phase takes into account the content of hydrophobic ingredients required according to the invention and as defined previously.
[0172] In addition to the ingredients required according to the invention and detailed above, the oily phase may comprise one or more additional fatty substances notably chosen from waxes, pasty compounds and lipophilic polymers.
[0173] Aqueous phase
[0174] As emerges from the foregoing, the composition according to the invention also comprises an aqueous phase. This aqueous phase comprises at least water optionally as a mixture with one or more water-soluble solvents.
[0175] The amount of aqueous phase may range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 65% to 97% by weight and more preferentially from 70% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of water may represent all or some of the aqueous phase and it is generally at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0176] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase contains at least one polyol.
[0177] For the purposes of the invention, the term “polyol” means:
[0178] - a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least two hydroxyl functions; or
[0179] - a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced with an oxygen atom and which comprises at least two hydroxyl functions, for instance polyethylene glycols (PEGs) containing from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units.
[0180] Preferably, the polyol(s) bear a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain.
[0181] Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12 and better still from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
[0182] The polyol(s) may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3- propanediol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol and panthenol, and mixtures thereof.
[0183] According to one embodiment, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, and in particular are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially glycerol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.
[0184] Preferably, a polyol that is suitable for use in the invention is chosen from glycerol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.
[0185] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of greater than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight and even more preferentially greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in an amount of greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0186] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, even more preferentially from 5% to 35% by weight, better still from 10% to 30% by weight and even better still from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0187] Cosmetic active agents and adjuvants
[0188] The compositions according to the present invention may, of course, contain one or more active agents and adjuvants notably chosen from cosmetic active agents, sunscreens, colorants, nacres, pigments, fragrances, preserving agents, pH adjusters, film-forming agents, etc. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) and / or the amount thereof so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
[0189] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active agent notably chosen from:
[0190] - vitamins and derivatives thereof, notably esters thereof, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and esters thereof (such as tocopheryl acetate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and derivatives thereof, panthenol, niacinamide or vitamin B3 having the INCI name Niacinamide or Niacinamide PC, for example sold under the name Niacinamide USP by the company Western Drugs or DSM Nutritional Products;
[0191] - known anti-ageing active agents, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and notably sodium hyaluronate, retinol and derivatives thereof, salicylic acid derivatives and in particular 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid (capryloylsalicylic acid), caffeine, adenosine, C-P-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane, the sodium salt of (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid, rhamnose, the compound having the INCI name Grifola frondosa Fruiting Body Extract, for example sold under the name Eterniskin™ LS 9881 by the company BASF Beauty Care Solutions;
[0192] - sunscreens; and
[0193] - mixtures thereof. A composition according to the invention may notably comprise from 0.0001% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30%, more preferentially from 0.01% to 20% and better still from 0.01% to 15% by weight of active agent(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0194] Cosmetic composition
[0195] The composition used according to the invention may be in any presentation form normally used in the cosmetics field.
[0196] It may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a gel, a white or coloured cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum or a paste.
[0197] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are not solid.
[0198] In particular, the compositions according to the invention are not solid and are not in stick form. According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are in a non- solid presentation form, ranging from a serum texture to a creamy texture which can be stored in a jar.
[0199] Advantageously, the viscosity of a composition according to the invention ranges from 100 cP (centipoises), corresponding to 0.1 Pa.s (Pascal. second) (internal measurement, spindle 2, 21UD - fluid milk type) to 20 040 cP, corresponding to 20.04 Pa.s (internal measurement = 85UD, spindle 4 - thick cream type) measured at 25°C.
[0200] The viscosity of a composition according to the invention may be measured by any method known to those skilled in the art, and in particular by applying a conventional method. For example, the measurement may be performed at 25 °C using a Contraves TV, Rheomat RM 180 or Rheomat RM 100 Plus viscometer, equipped for example with a spindle rotating at 200 rpm. A person skilled in the art can choose the spindle used to measure the viscosity, for example from spindles Ml, M2 or M4, according to their general knowledge, so as to be able to perform the measurement.
[0201] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended for application to the skin. This may be the skin of the face and / or of the body, in particular of the face and / or of the neck and / or of the hands. The composition according to the invention may comprise any constituent usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.
[0202] In particular, the composition is a “leave-on” composition. In other words, such a composition is notably not intended to be rinsed off after application. As such, it is thus different from a cleansing and / or makeup-removing composition most particularly designed to be diluted at the time of use and / or rinsed off after use to be removed from the skin surface to which it has been applied.
[0203] Uses and processes
[0204] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined previously in the cosmetic field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up the skin of the body or face, or for haircare.
[0205] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in which a composition as defined in the present invention is applied to the keratin material.
[0206] In particular, the process according to the invention is free of a washing step, whether or not immediately subsequent to said step of applying said composition.
[0207] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.
[0208] The cosmetic use or process of the invention is performed by topically administering a composition according to the invention.
[0209] Topical administration consists of the external application of the cosmetic composition to the skin according to the usual application techniques. Generally, this application may be made directly by finger, or using a woven or non-woven support on which an adjusted amount of said composition has been deposited beforehand.
[0210] Throughout the description, including the claims, the terms “between ... and ...”, and “ranging from ... to ...” should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified. The examples that follow illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope thereof.
[0211] In the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the amounts of the ingredients present in the compositions are given as weight percentages of starting material, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0212] Examples MATERIALS AND METHODS materials
[0213] In the examples below, the compounds are identified by their INCI name:
[0214] Cetearyl alcohol is sold under the name Cetoestearyl Alcohol 50 / 50 by the company Industria Quimica del Centro;
[0215] Sodium methyl stearyl taurate is sold under the name Nikkol SMT by the company Nikko;
[0216] Octyldodecanol is sold under the name Eutanol® G by the company BASF;
[0217] Oleyl erucate is sold under the name Cetiol® J 600 by the company BASF;
[0218] Hydrogenated jojoba oil is a product sold under the name Jojoba Wax Flakes by the company Desert Whale (Vantage Spec. Chem.);
[0219] C15-19 Alkane is a product sold under the name Emogreen™ E15 by the company SEPPIC;
[0220] Xanthan gum is sold under the name Keltrol® CG by the company CP Kelco;
[0221] Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer is sold under the name Aristoflex® A VC by the company Clariant;
[0222] Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate is sold under the name Hostacerin® AMPS by the company Clariant;
[0223] Carbomer is sold under the name Carbopol® 980 by the company Eubrizol;
[0224] The acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is sold under the name Pemulen™ TR-2 by the company Eubrizol;
[0225] Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 is sold under the name Sepimax Zen™ by the company SEPPIC;
[0226] Xanthan gum is sold under the name Keltrol® CG by the company CP Kelco;
[0227] Carrageenan is sold under the name Satiagel VPC 508 by the company Cargill;
[0228] Sclerotium gum (and) xanthan gum is sold under the name Actigum™ VSX 20 by the company Cargill;
[0229] Sodium polyacrylate is sold under the name Cosmedia® SP by the company BASF;
[0230] Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7 is sold under the name Sepigel™ 305 by the company SEPPIC and
[0231] Oxidized starch acetate is sold under the name GF-A390 by the company Foshan Gaofeng Starch Technology.
[0232] Stability measurement protocol The compositions are tested for their stability after 24h at 25°C and, where appropriate, after 15 days of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C.
[0233] The properties evaluated are:
[0234] - the pH of the composition, measured using a pH-meter;
[0235] - the viscosity of the composition, measured with a viscometer, for example a Lamy Rheology Rheomat RM 100 Plus viscometer (equipped with a thermostatic bath), according to the CID- 012-02 method, notably for 10 min;
[0236] - the appearance of the composition, in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by observation of the composition under a light microscope in non-polarized light, between slide and coverslip, at xlO magnification;
[0237] - the colour and odour of the composition; and
[0238] - macroscopic destabilization of the composition, which may be manifested by the appearance of creaming, coalescence, sedimentation and / or flocculation, the formation of a film on the surface and / or mottling, etc.
[0239] Evaluation of the abovementioned properties is always performed at 25°C, regardless of whether or not the compositions to be tested have been exposed to prolonged storage conditions and / or at temperatures other than 25 °C.
[0240] A composition is considered to remain stable when its properties, after 15 days of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C, remain close to those characterized at 24h at 25°C.
[0241] In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, with no signs of destabilization and with no significant change in pH, viscosity, colour or odour, then it is considered to be stable.
[0242] Protocol for evaluating the “bouncy” effect
[0243] The technical effects relating to the tactile and visual impressions of the compositions, notably with regard to the “bouncy” effect, were demonstrated via the following protocol, performed by a panel of evaluators:
[0244] - placing a finger on the surface of the composition contained in a receptacle;
[0245] - performing a movement by depressing the finger perpendicular to the surface of the composition to a depth of 0.5 cm six to ten times, at a speed of about two depressions per second; - evaluating the “bouncy” effect during the execution of the movement, notably the greater the bounce under the finger, notably linked to improved resistance and flexibility, and the ability of the composition to return to its initial appearance, the greater the “bouncy” effect;
[0246] - assigning a score for each composition, by the evaluator, on a scale from 0 to 5 to assess the “bouncy” effect, such an effect being found at and above a value greater than 3.
[0247] The “bouncy” effect is also characterized by an observation, performed by the evaluators, of the compositions respectively present in a receptacle. A “bouncy” effect is observed when the composition has a dense, domed appearance.
[0248] Example 1 - Preparation of compositions according to the invention and comparative compositions
[0249] Four compositions according to the invention (Il to 14) and four compositions outside the invention (Cl to C4) were prepared according to the preparation protocol described hereinbelow, with the nature of the ingredients and their respective amounts reported in Table 1. The contents are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0250] Process for preparing the compositions
[0251] In a tank, the components of phase A at the bottom of the tank are heated to 70°C with stirring (paddle speed: 60 rpm; turbine speed: 0 rpm). At 70°C, phase A is turbomixed by starting the turbine (turbine speed: 3500 rpm) for 10 minutes.
[0252] The components of phases Bl and B2 are separately heated to 73°C with standard stirring. The mixture obtained is added to phase A with stirring (paddle speed: 60 rpm and turbine speed: 8000 rpm). The mixture obtained is the stirred for 10 minutes. The components of phase C are added to this mixture and the resulting mixture is cooled to 40°C. The components of phase D are added at 40°C with stirring, and the mixture is cooled to 30°C with stirring and under vacuum. The components of phases E, F, G and then H are added at 30°C with stirring, and a final homogenization phase is then performed down to a temperature of 25 °C, with stirring and under vacuum.
[0253] [Table 1]
[0254] Examination of the eight compositions at 24 h and 25°C is as follows (Tables 2 and 3): [Table 2]
[0255] [Table 3]
[0256] The compositions are thus satisfactory at 24h and 25°C in terms of properties, notably in terms of appearance, colour, odour, viscosity, pH and microscopic features.
[0257] Characterization of the compositions in terms of “bouncy” effect
[0258] The “bouncy” effect was characterized (Table 4) for compositions II to 14 according to the invention (panel of thirteen evaluators) and compositions Cl to C4 outside the invention (panel of four evaluators) according to the evaluation protocol described above.
[0259] [Table 4]
[0260] It is found that compositions II to 14 according to the invention, in particular composition II according to the invention, have a significantly higher notably tactile and visual “bouncy” effect than that displayed by comparative compositions Cl to C4.
[0261] Example 2 - Characterization of the stability on storage of the compositions according to the invention of Example 1. The stability of compositions II to 14 according to the invention was reassessed on conclusion of 15 days of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C (Table 5).
[0262] [Table 5] Compositions II to 14 according to the invention were found to be satisfactory at 15 days and 4°C, 25°C and 45°C in terms of properties, notably in terms of appearance, colour, odour and microscopic features. Compositions II to 14 according to the invention thus remain stable at 15 days and 4°C, 25°C and 45°C, more particularly under drastic conditions at 15 days and 45°C.
Claims
Claims1. Composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:(a) at least one saturated C16-C22 and preferably C16-C18 fatty alcohol;(b) at least one anionic surfactant including at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain and at least one sulfonate function, and mixtures thereof;(c) at least one polyacrylamide polymer chosen from copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid and mixtures thereof; and(d) at least one carboxyvinyl polymer chosen from:- copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer chosen from a,P- ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or esters thereof, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer including a hydrophobic group;- crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers;- poly acrylate crosspolymer- 6.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, in which said polyacrylamide polymer (c) is chosen from the copolymers: ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinyl pyrrolidone, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate / sodium acrylate, sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate / hydroxyethyl acrylate, acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer, acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from the copolymers: ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinyl pyrrolidone, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate / sodium acrylate, sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate / hydroxyethyl acrylate, and even more particularly is the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinyl pyrrolidone copolymer.
3. Composition according to either of Claims 1 and 2, comprising from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 4% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight of polyacrylamide polymer(s) (c) relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer chosen from a,P-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or esters thereof, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer including a hydrophobic group are chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization:- of at least one monomer of formula (II) below:in which Ri denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, and- of at least one monomer corresponding to the monomer of formula (III) below:[Chem 3]in which R2 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 and preferably H or CH3, and R3 is a hydrogen atom; preferably chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:- essentially acrylic acid,- a compound of formula (III) in which R2 denotes H or CH3, and R3 is a hydrogen atom, and- a crosslinking agent, preferably chosen from diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and allyl ethers of pentaerythritol or of sucrose.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said carboxy vinyl polymer (d) is chosen from the polymers having the INCI name: Carbomer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 3.5% by weight of carboxyvinyl polymer(s) (d), relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture of at least two Ci6 and Cis saturated fatty alcohols, respectively, preferably in a Ci6 fatty alcohol(s) / Cisfatty alcohol(s) mass ratio ranging from 20 / 80 to 80 / 20 and advantageously in a Ci6 fatty alcohol(s) / Ci8 fatty alcohol(s) mass ratio equal to 50 / 50.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said saturated fatty alcohol (a) is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and more preferentially from 2.5% to 7% by weight of saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a), relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said anionic surfactant (b) contains only one C16-C22 and preferably C16-C18 hydrocarbon-based chain.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said anionic surfactant (b) is chosen from the surfactants of general formula (I):RCOY(CH2)nSO3M (I) in which:- R represents a saturated linear or branched C16-C22 alkyl group;- Y represents -O- or -NR4- with R4 representing a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl group;- M is chosen from the group formed by a hydrogen atom, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal cations, ammonium salts and organic amines;- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3; and mixtures thereof.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said anionic surfactant (b) is at least sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.05% to 5%, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (b), relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a fatty alcohols (a) / anionic surfactants (b) mass ratio ranging from 10 / 1 to 6 / 4, preferably from 19 / 2 to 7 / 3 and even more preferentially from 9 / 1 to 7 / 2.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising:- from 2% to 10% by weight of saturated fatty alcohol(s) (a) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol;- from 0.05% to 5% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (b) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate;- from 0.05% to 5% by weight of polyacrylamide polymer(s) (c) relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinyl pyrrolidone copolymer; and- 0.01% to 5% by weight of carboxyvinyl polymer(s) (d), including at least one carboxyvinyl polymer chosen from the polymers having the INCI name: carbomer, Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer- 6, and mixtures thereof.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising less than 2% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, of silicone compound(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly not containing any silicone compound(s).
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising less than 2% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, more particularly less than 0.5% by weight, even more particularly less than 0.1% by weight of clay(s), notably including unmodified and / or modified clay(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and notably being free of clay(s).
18. Cosmetic process for treating a keratin material, in which a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims is applied to the keratin material.
19. Use of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 17, in the cosmetics field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up bodily or facial skin, or for haircare.
Citation Information
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