Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising an eosin

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one eosin, (ii) at least one rosinate oil, and (iii) at least one ester of dextrin and C8-C22 fatty acids, characterized in that it comprises less than 10% by weight of synthetic hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising eosin

[0003] FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0004] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to compositions for topical application to keratin materials, in particular the skin or lips, comprising an eosin.

[0005] STATE OF THE ART

[0006] The invention relates to compositions whose color changes when they are applied to the skin or lips. The compositions of the invention are therefore distinguished from conventional makeup compositions for which an identity of shade is generally sought between the composition in its packaging and the deposition of this composition on the skin or lips, to facilitate the user's choice of the desired color.

[0007] In this context, eosins are used in particular, which have the particularity of not tinting the composition in mass (the coloring is not revealed in the composition), but of reacting to the humidity and pH of the lips to release the color instantly upon contact with the lips, with a 'natural color' effect. We know in particular the use of tetrabromofluorescein otherwise known as eosin or dye Red No. 21, Red No. 27, as well as the fat-soluble dye Orange 5, and their mixtures. The dyes DC Red 21 and DC Red 27 color the lips or skin pink, while the fat-soluble dye Orange 5 colors the lips or skin orange.

[0008] One of the main difficulties encountered when using these eosins in cosmetic compositions is to obtain a transparent and colorless or weakly colored base product, in which the eosin does not develop in the product but only increases in color upon contact with the skin or lips during application. In particular, for liquid to viscous products, the use of polyisobutene is known, which makes it possible to obtain a product with a final viscosity between 3500 and 9000 cps (centipoise) at 25 °C, close to a gloss-type product.

[0009] However, polyisobutene is a synthetic hydrocarbon oil of petroleum origin, and there is an increasing demand for natural products that include ingredients of natural origin, and therefore for replacing ingredients of petroleum origin with ingredients of natural origin.

[0010] Unexpectedly, the Applicant observed that the use of at least one rosinate oil and at least one ester of dextrin and C8-C22 fatty acids, among several oils and gelling agents, made it possible to prevent coloring of the mass tint by eosin, without impacting the properties of the composition (in particular its translucent or transparent appearance for a fluid and weakly colored composition, as well as its viscosity) or the revelation of the color of eosin when applied to the lips or skin.

[0011] The use of at least one rosinate oil and at least one ester of dextrin and C8-C22 fatty acids and in association with an eosin therefore makes it possible to obtain anhydrous compositions which are not tinted in the mass (if there are no other additional coloring materials other than eosin) or slightly tinted (if there are other additional coloring materials in addition to eosin), advantageously transparent or translucent in the mass for liquid compositions in particular, and which have a viscosity and performance, in particular gloss, close to that of compositions comprising polyisobutene. The association according to the invention thus makes it possible to obtain anhydrous compositions comprising eosin and having less than 10% by weight of synthetic hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] STATEMENT OF THE INVENTION

[0013] The invention relates, according to a first aspect, to an anhydrous cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0014] (i) At least one eosin;

[0015] (ii) At least one rosinate oil, and

[0016] (iii) At least one ester of dextrin and C8-C22 fatty acids, characterized in that it comprises less than 10% by weight of synthetic hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the lips, comprising the application to the skin and / or said lips of a composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0018] A first object of the invention is therefore an anhydrous cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0019] (i) At least one eosin,

[0020] (ii) At least one rosinate oil, and

[0021] (iii) At least one ester of dextrin and C8-C22 fatty acids, characterized in that it comprises less than 10% by weight of synthetic hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] By "anhydrous composition" is meant in particular that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is even completely free of water.

[0023] By 'mass colour' or 'mass shade' is meant the colour or shade of the composition as it is perceived when the composition is packaged and ready for use. This may be the colour or shade of a lipstick poured into a stick or a pan, the colour of a lip gloss packaged in a bottle or any other suitable transparent packaging allowing the colour of the mass of the product to be seen.

[0024] The color of the composition according to the invention comprising an eosin, as it is visually perceived when a user looks at it before using it, is different from the color of the composition visually perceived once it has been applied to a support, such as the skin or the lips, in particular the lips.

[0025] This change in color can be objectified by any means enabling the differences in color (or even shade) to be highlighted between the composition in its mass and a film of the composition.

[0026] According to one embodiment, in the case of a fluid composition according to the invention, it will be preferred that the cosmetic base of the composition be translucent or substantially transparent in its mass.

[0027] By "transparent in the mass" we mean that the composition lets light through and allows objects or alphanumeric characters to be distinguished. By "translucent in the mass" we mean that the composition lets light through but does not allow objects or alphanumeric characters to be distinguished.

[0028] Eosin

[0029] The composition of the invention therefore comprises at least one eosin.

[0030] By "eosin" according to the invention is meant in particular tetrabromofluorescein, otherwise known as dye Red No. 21 (INCI name: Cl 45380) or Red No. 27 (INCI name: Cl 45410), which colors the lips pink, the liposoluble dye Orange 5, which colors the lips orange, and mixtures thereof.

[0031] According to a first embodiment, the eosin is chosen from the dye Red No. 21 (INCI name: Cl 45380) or Red No. 27 (INCI name: Cl 45410).

[0032] According to another embodiment, the eosin is the fat-soluble dye Orange 5 of formula

[0033] According to yet another embodiment, the composition comprises an eosin Red 21 of INCI name: Cl 45380, an eosin Red 27 of INCI name: Cl 45410, and / or a liposoluble dye Orange 5, preferably eosins Red 27 and Red 21.

[0034] As eosin with the INCI name: Orange 5, we can notably cite the product marketed under the name UNICERT ORANGE K7003 J from the company SENSIENT COSMETIC TECHNOLOGIE.

[0035] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of eosin(s) in the composition of the invention will range from 0.001% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.2% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] Rosinate oil

[0037] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one rosinate oil. This will be referred to as rosinate oil or rosin ester. For the purposes of the invention, the term "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a rosinate oil with the INCI name: METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE. This will also be referred to as methyl hydrogenated rosinate, or methanol ester of hydrogenated rosin.

[0038] Indeed, the Applicant observed that this rosinate oil gave the best results in terms of stabilization of eosins and transparency in the mass, particularly in liquid compositions (the eosin does not rise in mass and does not sediment).

[0039] According to a particular embodiment, the rosinate oil is present in the composition in a total content ranging from 10% to 50% by weight of rosinate oil relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 30% to 40% by weight of rosinate oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] Ester of dextrin and C8-C22 fatty acids

[0041] The composition according to the invention also further comprises at least one ester of dextrin and C8-C22 fatty acids.

[0042] Esters of dextrin and C8-C22 fatty acids are classified as lipophilic gelling agents. They are particularly well-known as oil thickeners.

[0043] According to a particular embodiment, the ester of dextrin and C8-C22 fatty acids is selected from dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate, dextrin caprylate, dextrin caprate, dextrin laurate, dextrin stearate, dextrin behenate, dextrin oleate, preferably dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate and mixtures thereof, more preferably dextrin myristate.

[0044] According to a second particular mode, the composition comprises dextrin myristate, in particular with the INCI name: DEXTRIN MYRISTATE.

[0045] According to another particular embodiment, the composition comprises dextrin palmitate, in particular a dextrin palmitate with the INCI name: DEXTRIN PALMITATE or DEXTRIN PALMITATE / ETHYLHEXANOATE.

[0046] Some of these esters of dextrin and C8-C22 fatty acids are commercially available, notably under the name RHEOPEARL from the company Chiba floor Milling. Co. The following references can be cited in particular: DEXTRIN MYRISTATE marketed under the name RHEOPEARL MKL2

[0047] DEXTRIN PALMITATE / ETHYLHEXANOATE marketed under the name RHEOPEARL TT2

[0048] DEXTRIN PALMITATE marketed under the name HDXP by JIN YOUNG BIO CO., LTD

[0049] DEXTRIN PALMITATE marketed under the name RHEOPEARL KL 2 MB.

[0050] According to a particular and preferred method, DEXTRIN MYRISTATE marketed under the name RHEOPEARL MKL2 will be used.

[0051] Indeed, the Applicant observed that these esters of dextrin and C8-C22 fatty acids gave the best results in terms of stabilization of eosins and viscosity of the composition, particularly in liquid compositions (eosin does not rise in mass).

[0052] According to a particular embodiment, the ester of dextrin and C8-C22 fatty acids is present in the composition in a total content of 0.05% to 10% by weight of ester of dextrin and C8-C22 fatty acids relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.2 and 6% by weight of ester of dextrin and C8-C22 fatty acids relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Fatty or oily phase

[0054] The fatty or oily phase of the composition may further comprise one or more additional oils, distinct from the rosinate oil, and optionally one or more waxes and / or one or more pasty fatty substances (in particular for solid compositions).

[0055] According to a particular embodiment, the composition does not comprise an additional oil distinct from the rosinate oil.

[0056] According to another particular embodiment, the composition comprises an additional oil distinct from the rosinate oil. Of course, those skilled in the art will ensure that the nature and quantity of this additional oil do not impact the viscosity and performance properties obtained by the combination of the invention.

[0057] Additional oils (optional)

[0058] The composition of the invention comprises less than 10% by weight of synthetic hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 10% by weight of polyisobutene conventionally used in lip gloss type compositions.

[0059] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises less than 5% by weight of synthetic hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 3% by weight of synthetic hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1% by weight of synthetic hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably is free of synthetic hydrocarbon oil.

[0060] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one additional hydrocarbon oil selected in particular from vegetable squalane, C13-C21 alkanes, triglycerides of vegetable origin such as coco-caprylate / caprate, C10-C26 alcohol oils such as octyldodecanol, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, diisostearyl malate, triisostearine, tridecyl trimellitate and mixtures thereof, preferably vegetable squalane.

[0061] Among the C13-C21 alkanes, we can notably cite the following commercial references:

[0062] - EMOSMART L15 from the company SEPPIC, with INCI name C13-15 ALKANE

[0063] - VEGELIGHT 1618LC from the company Biosynthis, with INCI name C15-19 ALKANE (and) COCO-CAPRYLATE CAPRATE;

[0064] - VEGELIGHT 1820 from the company Biosynthis, with INCI name C18-21 ALKANE;

[0065] - EMOGREEN L19 from the company SEPPIC, with INCI name C15-19 ALKANE.

[0066] Examples of triglycerides of plant origin include glycerol trihexanoate, glycerol triheptanoate (triheptanoin), glycerol trioctanoate, coco-caprylate / caprate, and mixtures thereof, preferably coco-caprylate / caprate.

[0067] As C10-C26 alcohol oils, more particularly C10-C24, and preferably C12-C22, more particularly monoalcohols, mention may be made in particular of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0068] According to a particular and preferred method, vegetable squalane will be used as additional oil.

[0069] The content of additional oils distinct from the rosinate oil, when present, may range from 0.5 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes

[0070] According to a particular method, in particular when the composition is solid, the composition may include one or more waxes.

[0071] When the composition is fluid, the composition is advantageously wax-free.

[0072] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to denote a compound that is solid at 25°C and exhibits a reversible solid / liquid state change and a melting point above 30°C, preferably above 45°C.

[0073] Examples include microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes, in particular alkyl dimethicones, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, beeswax, waxes of vegetable origin, copolymers of maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises waxes whose total wax content ranges from 3 to 25%, preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Pasty fat

[0076] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more pasty fatty substances.

[0077] “Pasty fatty body” means a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0078] Examples include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, hydrogenated castor oil esters, jojoba esters, oligomeric glycerol esters, including diglycerol esters, vegetable butters such as shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] The content of pasty fatty substances in the composition of the invention can range from 0 to 30% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] Adhesion agent According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more adhesion agents.

[0081] Among the adhesion agents, mention may be made of copolymers of C3-C8 diol and C16-C20 fatty acid, in particular copolymers of propanediol and dilinoleic acid or of butanediol and dilinoleic acid, as well as oligomeric polyesters of dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimer fatty acid, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters, including dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate.

[0082] Such adhesion agents may be chosen in particular from the following compounds: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer (Hailucent ISDA from Estenity); bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G from Estenity), or phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S); dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Lusplan DD DA7 from Unipex);

[0083] - OCTYLDODECANOL AND DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 25 000 SHINE;

[0084] - DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 14436H;

[0085] Dilinoleic acid / Propanediol Copolymer marketed under the name SABODERM PDA

[0086] - DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER (and) C18-21 ALKANE marketed under the name VISCOPLAST GREEN 700 HVL

[0087] - DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER AND C15-19 ALKANE AND COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE marketed under the name VISCOPLAST WR-2 1618 EXP;

[0088] - HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OILS AND DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 30,000 SHINE, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinol Lusplan DD DA7 from Unipex.

[0090] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one adhesion agent selected in particular from copolymers of C3-C8 diol and C16-C20 fatty acid, preferably copolymers of propanediol and dilinoleic acid or butanediol and dilinoleic acid, and oligomeric polyesters of dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimer fatty acid, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters, preferably dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate.

[0091] The total content of an adhesion agent in the composition of the invention, when present, will generally range from 1 to 70%, in particular from 5 to 50% by weight (excluding solvents) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Additional gelling agents

[0093] The composition of the invention, particularly when it is a fluid composition, will generally comprise an additional gelling agent. In particular, it may be a lipophilic gelling agent.

[0094] By “lipophilic gelling agent” is meant a compound capable of gelling the oily or fatty phase of a composition.

[0095] Examples of lipophilic gelling agents include mineral lipophilic gelling agents, polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Mineral lipophilic gelling agents include, in particular, possibly modified clays such as modified hectorites (e.g., bentonites, etc.), and possibly surface-treated pyrogenic silica (e.g., silica silylate, silica dimethyl silylate, etc.).

[0097] Examples of polymeric or non-polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents include C8-C30 fatty acid triesters of mono- or polyglyceryl, hydroxystearic acid, lipophilic polycondensates of polyamide type, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes; block copolymers of "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene, polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-propylene), polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-butylene), butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer; associative polymers derived from castor oil such as the gelling agents of the EstoGel® range from PolymerExpert.

[0098] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least hydroxystearic acid.

[0099] We can notably mention hydroxystearic acid marketed under the name CASID HSA with the INCI name: HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID & STEARIC ACID. According to another particular embodiment, the composition comprises a gelling agent chosen from associative polymers derived from castor oil such as the gelling agents in the EstoGel® range from the company PolymerExpert.

[0100] We can notably cite the INCI name reference HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER marketed under the name ESTOGEL GREEN.

[0101] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one polyamide polycondensate.

[0102] For the purposes of the invention, the term "polycondensate" means a polymer obtained by polycondensation, namely by chemical reaction between monomers having different functional groups chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functions.

[0103] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide and / or one ester-terminated poly(ester-amides).

[0104] Mention may in particular be made of a poly(ester-amide) with an ester end obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid (also called hydrogenated dilinoleic acid) and neopentyl glycol, with ethylene diamine; the remaining acid ends being esterified by stearyl alcohol (C18). The copolymer thus obtained is a dimer copolymer of ethylenediamine bis-stearyl ethylenediamine dibenzoate / neopentyl glycol / stearyl, having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8. The copolymer with the INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is for example marketed under the name OLEOCRAFT LP -20 by the company CRODA.

[0105] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one additional gelling agent selected in particular from hydroxystearic acid, a polyamide polycondensate, associative polymers derived from castor oil, and mixtures thereof, preferably hydroxystearic acid.

[0106] The total content of gelling agent(s) in the composition of the invention, when present, will generally range from 0.2 to 5%, in particular from 0.3 to 3% by weight (excluding solvents) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Additional coloring materials According to a particular embodiment, the composition may also comprise one or more additional coloring materials, distinct from eosin, depending on the shade that one wishes to give to the product.

[0108] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "coloring matter" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. The coloring matters are conventionally chosen from pigments (insoluble in oils and in the aqueous phase) and dyes (soluble in oils or in the aqueous phase).

[0109] Said coloring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. According to a particular embodiment, the coloring material(s) are in particular chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, composite pigments, pearlescent agents, dyes other than eosin, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] “Pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Among “mineral pigments”, we can cite titanium dioxide, iron oxides, and their mixtures.

[0111] Among the "organic dyes and pigments (e.g. lakes)", we can cite, for example, Blue 1, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Yellow 10, Yellow 11, Red 4, Red 6, Red 7, Red 9, Red 19, Red 13, Red 17, Red 22, Red 28, Red 30 and Red 33, Red 34, Red 36, Red 40, Green 3, Orange 4, Violet 2, carmine, Green 5, Orange 10, Green 6, Sudan red, Sudan brown, and quinoline yellow, their salts, such as a sodium or barium salt, or even lakes comprising at least one of said organic pigments, for example those having the name Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090); Yellow 5 lake (Cl 19140); Yellow 6 lake (Cl 15985), Yellow 10 lake (Cl 47005), Yellow 11 lake, Red 6 lake (15850); Red 7 lake (Cl 15850); Red 21 lake (Cl 45380); Red 22 lake (Cl 45380), Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), Red 30 lake (Cl 73360), Red 33 lake (Cl 15880), Red 34 lake (Cl 15880), Red 40 Lake (CI16035), and / or their salts.“Lakes” are organic pigments comprising at least one organic colorant precipitated on an inert support (otherwise known as a “base”).

[0112] According to a particular embodiment, the composition does not comprise any other additional coloring matter other than eosin, or, where appropriate, comprises a white pigment but does not comprise any other additional coloring matter other than eosin, so that the mass of the composition is not tinted. In this case, the composition has a so-called 'neutral' tint in its mass. The tint of the composition in its mass is slightly colored, in the case where it comprises one or more coloring matters other than eosin, in particular organic dyes and pigments, and any white pigments.

[0113] This allows for a range of products with a mass tint ranging from transparent to opaque, or slightly colored, and whose eosin color is revealed when applied to the skin or lips.

[0114] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention has a mass tint ranging from transparent to translucent.

[0115] The total content of additional coloring matters other than eosin in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] Antioxidants

[0117] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more antioxidants.

[0118] Examples of antioxidants include ascorbic acid, di-tert-butyl-p-hydroxytoluene (also known as BHT or 2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol), BHA (tert-butyl-4-hydroxyanisole), tocopherols such as vitamin E, for example marketed under the name TOCOPHEROL 100 by the company Nisshin Oillio Group, tocopherol derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, cinnamic acid and its derivatives, such as pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, for example marketed under the name TINOGARD TT by the company BASF, gallic acid and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0119] The total content of antioxidant(s) in the composition of the invention, when present, will generally range from 0.01 to 2%, in particular from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight (excluding solvents) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0120] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one additional ingredient chosen from additional coloring materials other than eosin, film-forming polymers, antioxidants, perfumes, active ingredients, dispersants and mixtures thereof. Galenic

[0121] The composition of the invention may be of a solid to pasty or liquid to viscous texture.

[0122] By 'viscous liquid' according to the invention is meant a composition which flows under its own weight at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atmosphere).

[0123] By 'solid to pasty' according to the invention is meant a composition which is neither fluid nor liquid according to the preceding definition.

[0124] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a liquid to viscous composition or a solid composition, preferably a liquid to viscous composition.

[0125] According to a particular embodiment, the liquid to viscous composition of the invention is in the form of a gloss, a serum, an oily gel, an oil, in particular for lip makeup.

[0126] In particular, it will be a gloss or oily gel for the lips.

[0127] According to a particular method, the solid composition is in the form of a stick, in particular for skin or lip makeup.

[0128] In particular, it will be a lip stick.

[0129] Cosmetic process

[0130] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the lips, comprising the application to the skin and / or said lips of a composition according to the invention.

[0131] According to a particular embodiment, it is a cosmetic process for making up the lips, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the lips, in particular a gloss or oily gel for the lips.

[0132] According to a particular embodiment, it is a cosmetic process for making up the lips, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the lips, in particular a lip stick. The invention will be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. The percentages are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition unless otherwise indicated.

[0133] EXAMPLES

[0134] Example 1: Effects of cosmetic oils on the homogeneity and mass color (rise of eosin tint) of compositions comprising an eosin

[0135] Several tests were carried out to select one or more oils from among those commonly used in cosmetics which, once mixed with an eosin (Red27 or Red21 depending on the tests), make it possible to obtain a composition with good color homogeneity, without the eosin increasing in color in the mass. Indeed, eosin Red 27 is a colorant which reacts and can "increase" (increase in color by turning pink, ranging from a pale pink, sometimes orange, to an intense pink) in the presence of humidity, in contact with hydrophilic raw materials or depending on the polarity of the fatty phase (the more polar the fatty phase, the more the eosin is likely to increase).

[0136] The different oils tested are as follows: sunflower oil marketed under the name FLORASUN 90 OCTYLDODECANOL marketed under the name RISONOL 20SP

[0137] - PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE castor oil marketed under the name CODEX CASTOR OIL

[0138] Rosinate oil with INCI name: METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE marketed under the name FLORALYN vegetable squalane

[0139] Caprylic / capric acid ester with INCI name: COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE AND TOCOPHEROL marketed under the name CETIOL C 5C

[0140] 1.1 Tests with Eosin Red 27 - Cl 45410

[0141] Each test is composed of a mixture of 98% oil and 2% pure eosin relative to the total weight of the mixture. The color of the tested compositions (oil / eosin mixtures), and the appearance of the mixtures (homogeneity) are evaluated by eye and at different times and conditions, in two 2 cups, one at 40°C and 85% humidity and the other at room temperature:

[0142] T0: time of mixing with eosin (observation in the 2 cups) - T15: 15 hours after mixing with eosin + composition left at room temperature

[0143] (observation in 1 cup)

[0144] T15 T+: 15 hours after mixing with eosin + composition left at 40°C and 85% humidity (observation in 1 cup).

[0145] The appearance of the mixture (homogeneity and color) is evaluated at 40°C and 85% humidity and the other at room temperature.

[0146] The color is considered correct if at T0 the color of the mixture matches the color of the eosin and if there is no significant increase in color at T15. A slightly yellow or orange color is acceptable.

[0147] The appearance of the mixture is considered compliant if it is homogeneous. A slight sedimentation of the eosin remains acceptable. The appearance is non-compliant if the eosin sediments.

[0148] The results of the evaluations are presented in the following Table 1:

[0149] [Table 1]

[0150] 1.2 Tests with Eosin Red 21 - Cl 45380

[0151] Each test is composed of a mixture of 98% oil and 2% eosin relative to the total weight of the mixture. The same criteria of color and homogeneity of the mixtures are evaluated under the same conditions and with the same notations as in test 1.1 described above.

[0152] The results are presented in the following Table 2:

[0153] [Table 2]

[0154] 1.3 Conclusions

[0155] These results show that castor oil increases eosin levels, starting from the mixture between the oil and eosin.

[0156] The oils that cause the eosins to rise the least while allowing a homogeneous mixture are sunflower oil (FLORASUN 90), octyldodecanol (RISONOL 20SP), PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE, rosinate oil (FLORALYN). For these oils, the two eosins do not rise or very little, whether in the condition of 15 hours at room temperature or 15 hours at high temperature and high humidity. The appearance of the mixture is less good with VEGETABLE SQUALANE and COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE AND TOCOPHEROL (CETIOL C 5C), in particular in the case of eosin Red 21.

[0157] The results are even better for sunflower oil and rosinate oil taking into account both tests and both criteria (color and homogeneity of the mixture).

[0158] All of these oils, apart from castor oil which was discarded due to the significant increase in eosin color under all conditions, were then tested in combination with a gelling agent.

[0159] Example 2: effects of the combination of eosin + cosmetic oil + gelling agent on the mass color (rise of the eosin tint) of the compositions and their viscosity

[0160] The oils selected in Example 1 are mixed with different gelling agents and then with eosin to determine which combination makes it possible to obtain a composition which does not cause the eosin to rise in the composition, while having a viscosity suitable for liquid to viscous gloss-type compositions.

[0161] The gelling agents tested are as follows:

[0162] HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID marketed under the name CASID HSA

[0163] - POLYAMID-8 AND PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE marketed under the name SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 DEXTRIN MYRISTATE marketed under the name RHEOPEARL MKL2

[0164] Each test is composed of a mixture of 1 to 5% gelling agent, 95 to 99% oil and 0.01% Eosin Red 27 (Cl 45410) based on the total weight of the mixture.

[0165] The color of the tested compositions is evaluated by eye just after mixing the oil, the gelling agent and the eosin.

[0166] The viscosity of the compositions is measured with a Rhéolab QC viscometer (Anton Paar) equipped with Rheoplus software using a 4-blade ST22 — 4V spindle (rotation speed 100 rpm and measurement time 3 min).

[0167] Prior to measurement, the mixture of the invention is placed in a 120 ml pot (Ref: 102171001, Kola Rond VT3 M120 Blanc Pharm) in an oven at 25°C for at least 12 hours. Once the mobile is immersed in the pot, the level of composition must reach the neck of the pot.

[0168] The correct choice of the mobile is checked by measuring the percentage deviation of the measurements taken every 6 seconds. The viscosity value of the mixture is equal, according to this protocol, to the average of the last fifteen measurements taken by the device during the measurement time indicated above.

[0169] The desired viscosity for an eosin formulation with a mixture of gelling agent and oil should be greater than 800 cps.

[0170] The 'transparent' or 'non-transparent' (otherwise known as 'translucent') appearance of each composition is assessed by observing the composition in mass, through the (transparent) pot.

[0171] By "transparent in the mass" we mean that the composition lets light through and allows objects or alphanumeric characters to be distinguished.

[0172] By "translucent in the mass" or "non-transparent" we mean that the composition lets light through but does not allow objects or alphanumeric characters to be distinguished.

[0173] By "opaque" we mean that the composition does not allow light to pass through and does not allow objects or alphanumeric characters to be distinguished.

[0174] The results are presented in the following table: [Table 3]

[0175] These results show that for each oil tested, the combination with the gelling agent Polyamide-8 (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-2O) increases eosin. This gelling agent is therefore not a good candidate for the compositions of the invention.

[0176] As for the gelling agent HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID (CASID HSA): eosin rises in combination with CETIOL C 5C oil and RISONOL 2OSP, the composition is not homogeneous and does not viscose with SQUALANE VEGETAL, eosin does not rise for combinations with FLORASUN 90 and PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE oils, but the combination causes an oily exudate which is not desired, eosin does not rise for the combination with FLORALYN rosinate oil.

[0177] Regarding the dextrin myristate gelling agent (RHEOPEARL MKL2): the eosin rises a little for the combination with RISONOL 20SP and the final composition is not very homogeneous, the eosin does not rise for the combination with PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE, but the mixture is not very homogeneous, the eosin does not rise for the combination with sunflower oil (FLORASUN 90), CETIOL C 5C and SQUALANE VEGETAL the viscosity is too low and the composition too liquid, the eosin does not rise for the combinations with CETIOL C 5C and SQUALANE VEGETAL oils, the eosin does not rise for the combination with FLORALYN, and the viscosity of the product is in the desired range.

[0178] The best results, both in terms of low eosin tint rise in the mass composition (product mass color) and viscosity, are obtained for the tested composition comprising rosinate oil (FLORALYN) and the gelling agent dextrin myristate (RHEOPEARL MKL2).

[0179] The applicant also tested the following C8-C22 fatty acid dextrin esters in combination with a rosinate oil and Eosin Red 27 (Cl 45410): DEXTRIN PALMITATE / ETHYLHEXANOATE marketed under the name

[0180] RHEOPEARL TT2

[0181] DEXTRIN PALMITATE marketed under the name HDXP

[0182] DEXTRIN PALMITATE marketed under the name RHEOPEARL KL 2 MB. Each of the combinations obtained presents color results in mass and viscosity quite close to the combination with dextrin myristate (RHEOPEARL MKL2).

[0183] A further series of tests was carried out with another ester oil, isotridecyl isononanoate, compared to the rosinate oil according to the invention, under the following conditions: a mixture of 1 to 5% gelling agent, 95 to 99% of another ester oil (isotridecyl isononanoate) and 0.01% of eosin Red 27 (Cl 45410) relative to the total weight of the mixture. The results at 24 hours are presented in the following table:

[0184] [Table 4] These results confirm that rosinate oil, compared to another ester oil (Isotridecyl isononanoate), allows to obtain the best results both in terms of low rise of the eosin tint in the mass composition (mass color of the product) and viscosity, and also allows to have transparent to translucent compositions.

[0185] Example 3: Formulas with additional adhesion agent

[0186] This example illustrates the addition of an additional adhesion agent to the formulas according to the invention to optimize the adhesion properties of the film without impacting the color and viscosity properties evaluated above.

[0187] The adhesion agents tested are as follows:

[0188] - DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE marketed under the name LUSPLAN DD DA 7

[0189] - OCTYLDODECANOL AND DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 25 000 SHINE

[0190] - DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 14436H

[0191] - DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER AND C15-19 ALKANE AND COCOCAP RYLATE / CAP RATE marketed under the name VISCOPLAST WR-2 1618 EXP

[0192] - HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OILS AND DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE marketed under the name VISCOPLAST 30,000 SHINE.

[0193] [Table 4]

[0194] For each of these formulas, the product is obtained using the following method:

[0195] The rosinate oil is weighed into a stainless steel beaker and then mixed with stirring (RAYNERI®) at 300 rpm; - the dextrin myristate is weighed and then added to the rosinate oil while maintaining stirring for at least 30 min, giving the mixture A1; the beaker is then placed in a water bath at 97°C and left stirring;

[0196] In a second beaker, a first part of the additional oils and the adhesion agent are weighed and placed in a water bath at 97°C with stirring (RAYNERI®) at 250 rpm, giving mixture A2;

[0197] The rosinate oil, dextrin myristate, additional oils and adhesion agent are then mixed until homogenized, giving mixture A1 + A2;

[0198] CASID HSA is weighed and added to mixture A1 + A2, thus giving mixture A3; Eosin, the other coloring matters and the rest of the additional oils are weighed and then added to mixture A3, thus giving mixture A3 + B which is placed in the water bath at 97°C with stirring;

[0199] The A3 + B mixture is then removed from the water bath and left stirring until the composition is completely homogenized and cooled to around 40-45°C.

[0200] Results

[0201] For each of these formulas, the product obtained does not color or only slightly in mass, its viscosity is between 2000 and 9000 cps, and when applied to the lips it forms a film with good adhesion to the lips and which colors the lips in a light pink.

[0202] DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE marketed under the name LUSPLAN DD DA 7 gives the best results in terms of stability, final viscosity, gloss, non-transfer of the composition and no stringing of the composition.

[0203] Example 4: Formulations

[0204] 4-1 Gloss with Eosin Red27

[0205] [Table 5]

[0206] The gloss obtained is stable and homogeneous (no rise of eosin in the mass composition), of good viscosity and with good glide and adhesion when applied to the lips, with a revelation of the pink color on the lips. 4-2 Gloss with Orange 5 [Table 6]

[0207] The gloss obtained is stable and homogeneous (no rise of eosin in the mass composition), of good viscosity and with good glide and hold after application on the lips, with a revelation of the orange color on the lips.

Claims

Tl CLAIMS 1. Anhydrous cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) At least one eosin, (ii) At least one rosinate oil, and (iii)At least one ester of dextrin and C8-C22 fatty acids, characterized in that it comprises less than 10% by weight of synthetic hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises less than 5% by weight of synthetic hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 3% by weight of synthetic hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1% by weight of synthetic hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably is free of synthetic hydrocarbon oil.

3. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the eosin (i) is selected from eosins Red 27 with INCI name: CI45410, Red 21 with INCI name CI45380, the liposoluble dye Orange 5, preferably eosins Red 27 and Red 21.

4. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the rosinate oil (ii) is the rosinate oil with the INCI name: METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE.

5. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the ester of dextrin and C8-C22, preferably C12-C18, fatty acids (iii) is selected from dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate, dextrin caprylate, dextrin caprate, dextrin laurate, dextrin stearate, dextrin behenate, dextrin oleate, preferably dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate and mixtures thereof, more preferably dextrin myristate.

6. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises from 0.001% to 2% by weight of eosin (i) relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 0.2% by weight of eosin relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises from 10% to 50% by weight of rosinate oil (ii) relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 30% to 40% by weight of rosinate oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises 0.05% to 10% by weight of dextrin ester and C8-C22 fatty acids (iii) relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.2 and 6% by weight of dextrin ester and C8-C22 fatty acids relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises waxes whose total wax content ranges from 3 to 25%, preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it further comprises one or more pasty fatty substances.

11. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it further comprises at least one adhesion agent selected in particular from copolymers of C3-C8 diol and C16-C20 fatty acid, preferably copolymers of propanediol and dilinoleic acid or butanediol and dilinoleic acid, and oligomeric polyesters of dimers obtained by reaction between a fatty alcohol and a dimer fatty acid, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters, preferably dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate.

12. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional gelling agent selected in particular from hydroxystearic acid, a polyamide polycondensate, associative polymers derived from castor oil, and mixtures thereof, preferably hydroxystearic acid.

13. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional hydrocarbon oil selected in particular from vegetable squalane, C13-C21 alkanes, triglycerides of vegetable origin such as coco-caprylate / caprate, C10-C26 alcohol oils such as octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof, preferably vegetable squalane.

14. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional ingredient chosen from additional coloring materials other than eosin, film-forming polymers, antioxidants, perfumes, active ingredients, dispersants and mixtures thereof.

15. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it is in the form of a liquid to viscous composition or a solid composition, preferably a liquid to viscous composition.

16. Cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the lips, comprising the application to the skin and / or said lips of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15.

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