Cosmetic composition of the oil-in-water emulsion type, having a powdery perception
A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion composition with hydrophilic silica, volatile compounds, and specific surfactants addresses the challenge of achieving stability and an immediate powdery perception, while being environmentally friendly.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2024/088008
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-22
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-20
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-26
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions struggle to provide a stable, immediate powdery perception upon application, while also maintaining stability and avoiding phase separation, especially when high filler contents of hydrophobic particulate materials are used.
A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least 7% by weight of hydrophilic silica, at least 5% by weight of volatile compounds selected from C1-C5 monoalcohols and volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, and at least one surfactant with a C2-C14 hydrocarbon-based chain, which ensures stability and rapid volatility for a powdery perception.
The composition achieves good stability with no phase separation, provides a rapid powdery perception upon application, and forms a comfortable deposit after drying, while also promoting environmental sustainability through the use of renewable materials.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] Description
[0002] Title: Cosmetic composition of the oil-in-water emulsion type, having a powdery perception
[0003] Technical field
[0004] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic care and / or make-up compositions, particularly in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, which give beneficial sensory properties during the application thereof and drying thereof on a keratin material.
[0005] The term “keratin material” particularly means the skin, the scalp, keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, head hair, bodily hair, the nails, mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin (body, face, neck, neckline, area around the eyes, eyelids).
[0006] Prior art
[0007] Presentation forms conventionally used to give a powdery feel are solid compositions comprising pulverulent substances, such as loose or pressed powders, the latter also being referred to as compacts. These presentation forms are particularly appreciated by users with regard to their lightness, softness, tack-free aspect or non-greasy feel.
[0008] This type of composition having a powdery feel also exists in the form of a direct emulsion, i.e. an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase. The advantage of these compositions is that they give a similar sensory impression, or even a more suitable sensory impression for caring for the skin, and above all give a perception of freshness and comfort on application. They are also ideal for rapid evaporation of the liquid medium that carries the pulverulent substances.
[0009] On the other hand, regarding these direct emulsion-type compositions, there is a need to maintain their stability, particularly by limiting the phenomenon of phase separation after manufacture, when particulate materials such as pulverulent substances are incorporated therein at high filler contents. The particulate materials of these compositions generally include materials such as hydrophobic silicas and / or particles of the lauroyl lysine type, which are lipophilic in nature. Due to their lack of affinity, or low affinity, for water, these particulate materials have the advantage of being more compatible with the architecture of direct emulsions, but the physicochemical stability of these emulsions is still not optimal. Moreover, presentation forms incorporating these materials do not give users an immediate marked, soft and smooth powdery perception, particularly during drying thereof and / or after drying on the skin. And yet, this is precisely one expectation users have.
[0010] There therefore remains a need for a composition which makes it possible to satisfy all these requirements.
[0011] Thus, one aim of the present invention is to develop a presentation form which is able to give users a virtually immediate powdery perception upon application.
[0012] It also aims to propose a composition which gives users feelings of lightness, softness and a tack-free aspect or non-greasy feel.
[0013] In addition, it aims to propose a presentation formulation with a direct emulsion architecture which is stabilized over time.
[0014] Finally, the invention also aims to propose a presentation formulation with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable starting materials and / or with a good natural origin index and / or of natural origin, and / or which are abundant. Specifically, formulating environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern for contributing towards meeting global challenges. It is thus essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby making it possible to respond to these environmental issues.
[0015] As is clear from the following text, these aims are precisely met according to the invention by virtue of the selection of a specific particulate material, in this case a hydrophilic silica, and by formulating same with at least one particular surfactant and at least one particular volatile compound.
[0016] Summary of the invention
[0017] Thus, according to one aspect thereof, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:
[0018] (a) at least 7% by weight of a hydrophilic silica, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least 5% by weight of volatile compound(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, selected from C1-C5 monoalcohols, volatile Cs-Ci6 hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile Cs-Ci6 ester oils, volatile Cs-Ci6 ether oils, volatile Cs-Ci6 carbonic acid ester oils, volatile Cs-Ci6 ketone oils, volatile Cs-Ci6 aldehyde oils, and mixtures thereof; and
[0019] (c) at least one surfactant comprising at least one C2-C14 hydrocarbon-based chain.
[0020] Against all expectations, the inventors have found that a composition according to the invention has good stability, particularly with no phase separation after manufacture, while having rapid volatility at the time of application, followed by the formation of a deposit after drying, giving a satisfactory feeling of comfort and a powdery perception.
[0021] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises:
[0022] - from 7% to 35% by weight of hydrophilic silica(s) (a), relative to the total weight of the composition;
[0023] - from 5% to 35% by weight of volatile compounds (b), relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least one volatile Cs-Ci6 hydrocarbon-based oil, in particular selected from linear or branched Cs-Ci6 alkane oils, and more particularly from linear or branched C9-C12 alkane oils; and
[0024] - 0.05% to 10% by weight of surfactant(s) (c), relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular selected from alkyl (poly)glycosides comprising at least one C2-C14 hydrocarbon-based chain, alkali metal salts of (C6-Ci4)acylglutamic acids, gemini surfactants comprising at least one C2-C 14 hydrocarbon-based chain and mixtures thereof.
[0025] Another subject of the present invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in which a composition as defined previously is applied to the keratin material.
[0026] Another subject of the present invention is the use of a composition as defined previously in the cosmetics field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up bodily or facial skin.
[0027] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the detailed description that follows.
[0028] In the text hereinbelow, the expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more” and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range. Detailed description
[0029] The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and / or dermatological, and is preferably cosmetic. The term “cosmetic” means a composition that is compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and skin appendages. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.
[0030] The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin.
[0031] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tautness or redness, liable to discourage the user from applying this composition.
[0032] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1.0% by weight, in particular less than 0.5% by weight, of silicone compound(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly does not contain silicone compound(s).
[0033] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone compound” means a compound belonging to the siloxane or polysiloxane (silicone) family, which are known in the cosmetics field, of formula RiSiO or [SiORi ]n, in which R is an organic group, for example an alkyl. A silicone compound is for example selected from silicone oils, silicone surfactants, silicone resins and mixtures thereof.
[0034] Hydrophilic silica (a)
[0035] The composition according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic silica (a).
[0036] As is clear from the examples, the specific choice of this silica is advantageous since it makes it possible to give the composition a much more pleasant perception than with compounds such as lauroyl lysine or a hydrophobic silica such as the compound of INCI name: SILICA (and) TRHIHYDROXYSTEARIN. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an amorphous hydrophilic silica (a).
[0037] An amorphous silica can be natural or synthetic. For example, a synthetic amorphous silica is selected from microamorphous silicas and mixtures thereof, in particular silica gels, colloidal silicas, amorphous precipitated silicas, fumed silicas and mixtures thereof.
[0038] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic silica (a) selected from silicas having an average particle diameter ranging from 1 pm to 30 pm, in particular from 1 pm to 25 pm, and more particularly from 1 pm to 20 pm.
[0039] Such an average particle diameter can be characterized, for example, using an apparatus operating under the Coulter principle, and particularly the Multisizer™ apparatus sold by Beckman Coulter.
[0040] As hydrophilic silica (a), mention may be made of: the compound of INCI name “SILICA”, sold under the name SOLESPHERE™ H51 by AGC Chemicals Americas, or SUNSPHERE® H51 sold by AGC SI TECH.
[0041] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 10% by weight, in particular at least 12% by weight, more particularly 14% by weight, of hydrophilic silica(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0042] According to another embodiment, the composition comprises from 7% to 35% by weight, in particular from 7% to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 10% to 25% by weight, of hydrophilic silica(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0043] As is clear from the examples below, the powdery perception is most particularly provided by the presence of a hydrophilic silica (a) and a significant content of volatile compound(s) (b).
[0044] Volatile compound(s) (b) The composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of a volatile compound (b), relative to the total weight of the composition, selected from C1-C5 monoalcohols, volatile Cs-Ci6 hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile Cs-Ci6 ester oils, volatile Cs- Ci6 ether oils, volatile Cs-Ci6 carbonic acid ester oils, volatile Cs-Ci6 ketone oils, volatile Cs- Ci6 aldehyde oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0045] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one C1-C5 monoalcohol.
[0046] The term “C1-C5 monoalcohols” means linear or branched alcohols comprising a single hydroxyl function and having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.
[0047] It is noted that the C1-C5 monoalcohols are preferentially water-soluble, i.e. are liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
[0048] The C1-C5 monoalcohols are, for example, ethanol, propanol such as n-propanol and isopropanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cyclohexanol, isobutyl alcohol and 2-methyl-2-butanol (2-methylbutan-2-ol).
[0049] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C1-C5 monoalcohol, and in particular ethanol.
[0050] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile oil selected from:
[0051] - volatile Cs-Ci6 hydrocarbon-based oils, particularly linear or branched Cs-Ci6 alkane oils, more particularly linear or branched C9-C12 alkane oils;
[0052] - volatile Cs-Ci6 ester oils, particularly linear or branched Cs-Cn esters;
[0053] - volatile Cs-Ci6 ether oils, particularly linear or branched C10-C13 ethers;
[0054] - volatile Cs-Ci6 carbonic acid ester oils, particularly linear or branched Cs-Cio carbonic acid esters;
[0055] - volatile Cs-Ci6 ketone oils, particularly linear or branched C9-C12 ketones;
[0056] - volatile Cs-Ci6 aldehyde oils, particularly linear or branched Cs-Cn aldehydes; and
[0057] - mixtures thereof. In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile oil selected from:
[0058] - volatile Cs-Ci6 alkane oils, particularly linear or branched Cs-Ci6 alkane oils, more particularly linear or branched C9-C12 alkane oils;
[0059] - volatile Cs-Ci6 ester oils, particularly linear or branched Cs-Cn esters;
[0060] - volatile Cs-Ci6 ether oils, particularly linear or branched C10-C13 ethers; and
[0061] - mixtures thereof.
[0062] For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil" means any volatile oil, preferentially non-silicone, that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or a keratin fibre in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) are liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), particularly having a non-zero vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10‘3to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
[0063] According to a particular embodiment, the volatile oil is selected from volatile Cs-Ci6 hydrocarbon-based oils, also referred to as alkane oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0064] The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil constituted of hydrogen and carbon atoms. A hydrocarbon-based oil can be a plant-based hydrocarbon-based oil, a mineral hydrocarbon-based oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon-based oil.
[0065] Among the volatile Cs-Ci6 hydrocarbon-based oils, also referred to as Cs-Ci6 alkane oils, mention may be made of:
[0066] - branched Cs-Ci6 alkane oils, in particular Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes, also known as isoparaffins, such as isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, and mixtures thereof;
[0067] - linear Cs-Ci6, in particular C10-C15, more particularly C9-C14, alkane oils, such as n- dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) which are known, respectively, by the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97 and are sold by Sasol, and mixtures thereof, such as the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, the mixture of linear C9-C12 alkanes having the INCI name INCI C9-12 ALKANE sold under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK 100 by BIOSYNTHIS; and
[0068] - mixtures thereof.
[0069] Thus, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from linear or branched Cs-Ci6 alkane oils, and more particularly linear or branched C9-C12 alkane oils.
[0070] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, and more preferentially from 5% to 15% by weight of volatile Cs-Ci6 hydrocarbon-based oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0071] According to another particular embodiment, the volatile oil is selected from volatile Cs-Ci6 ester oils, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile ester oils can be selected from:
[0072] - esters of formula (I):
[0073] [Chem 1]
[0074] R1COOR2 (I) in which:
[0075] Ri represents a hydrogen atom H or a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, and
[0076] R2 represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, with the proviso that:
[0077] - when R2 is a linear hydrocarbon-based radical and Ri is H or a linear hydrocarbon-based radical, then 7 < Ri + R2 < 8; and
[0078] - when at least one of Ri and R2 is a branched hydrocarbon-based radical, then 8 < Ri + R2 < 10; and
[0079] - mixtures thereof.
[0080] The expression “7 < Ri + R2 < 8” means that the sum of the carbon atoms of Ri and R2 ranges from 7 to 8. Similarly, the expression “8 < Ri + R2 < 10” means that the sum of the carbon atoms of Ri and R2 ranges from 8 to 10.
[0081] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one volatile ester oil, in particular selected from linear or branched Cs-Ci6 esters, more particularly branched Cs-Cie esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. According to another particular embodiment, the volatile oil is selected from volatile Cs-Ci6 ether oils, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile ether oils can be selected from:
[0082] - ethers of formula (II):
[0083] [Chem 2]
[0084] R3-O-R4 (II) in which:
[0085] R3 and R4 are identical or different and represent a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, with the proviso that:
[0086] - when R3 and R4 are linear, they each contain from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, where 10 < R3 + R4 < 11; and
[0087] - when R3 and / or R4 are branched, they each contain from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, where 10 < R3 + R4 < 13 or 12 < R3 + R4 < 13; and
[0088] - mixtures thereof.
[0089] The expression “10 < R3 + R4 < 11” means that the sum of the carbon atoms of R3 and R4 ranges from 10 to 11. Similarly, the expression “10 < R3 + R4 < 13” means that the sum of the carbon atoms of R3 and R4 ranges from 10 to 13. Likewise, the expression “12 < R3 + R4 < 13” means that the sum of the carbon atoms of R3 and R4 ranges from 12 to 13.
[0090] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one volatile ether oil, in particular selected from volatile Cs-Ci6 ethers, more particularly linear or branched C10-C 13 ethers, and mixtures thereof.
[0091] Among the volatile ethers, mention may be made of:
[0092] - linear C10 or C11 ethers,
[0093] - saturated and branched C10 or C11 ethers, and
[0094] - branched C12 or C13 ethers.
[0095] According to a particular embodiment, the volatile oil is selected from volatile Cs-Ci6 carbonic acid ester oils, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile carbonic acid ester oils can be selected from:
[0096] - carbonic acid esters of formula (III):
[0097] [Chem 3]
[0098] R5-O-CO-O-R6(III) in which:
[0099] Rs and Re are identical or different and represent a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, with the proviso that:
[0100] - when R5 and Re are linear, they each contain from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, where 7 < R5 + Re
[0101] < 9; and
[0102] - when R5 and Re are branched, they each contain from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, where 7 < R5 + Re < 9; and
[0103] - mixtures thereof.
[0104] The expression “7 < Rs + Re < 9” means that the sum of the carbon atoms of Rs and Re ranges from 7 to 9.
[0105] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one volatile carbonic acid ester oil, in particular selected from volatile Cs-Cie carbonic acid esters, more particularly linear or branched Cs-Cio carbonic acid esters, and mixtures thereof.
[0106] Among the volatile carbonic acid ester oils, mention may be made of:
[0107] - linear or branched Cs carbonic acid esters, and
[0108] - branched C9 carbonic acid esters.
[0109] According to another particular embodiment, the volatile oil is selected from volatile Cs-Ci6 ketone oils, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile ketone oils can be selected from:
[0110] - ketones of formula (IV):
[0111] [Chem 4]
[0112] R8-CO-R9 (IV) in which:
[0113] Rs and R9 are identical or different and represent a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, with the proviso that:
[0114] - when Rs and R9 are linear, they each contain from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, where 8 < Rs + R9
[0115] < 9; and
[0116] - when Rs and R9 are branched, they each contain from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, where 9 < Rs + R9 < 11; and
[0117] - mixtures thereof. The expression “8 < Rs + R9 < 9” means that the sum of the carbon atoms of Rs and R9 ranges from 8 to 9. Similarly, the expression “9 < Rs + R9 < 11” means that the sum of the carbon atoms of Rs and R9 ranges from 9 to 11.
[0118] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one volatile ketone oil, in particular selected from volatile Cs-Ci6 ketones, more particularly linear or branched C9-C12 ketones, and mixtures thereof.
[0119] Among the volatile ketones, mention may be made of:
[0120] - linear or branched C9 or C10 ketones, and
[0121] - branched C11 or C12 ketones.
[0122] According to another particular embodiment, the volatile oil is selected from volatile Cs-Ci6 aldehyde oils, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile aldehyde oils can be selected from:
[0123] - aldehydes of formula (V):
[0124] [Chem 5]
[0125] R10COH (V) in which:
[0126] Rio represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, with the proviso that:
[0127] - when Rio is linear, it contains 7 or 8 carbon atoms; and
[0128] - when Rio is branched, it contains 8 or 10 carbon atoms; and
[0129] - mixtures thereof.
[0130] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one volatile aldehyde oil, in particular selected from volatile Cs-Ci6 aldehydes, more particularly linear or branched Cs-Cn aldehydes, and mixtures thereof.
[0131] Among the volatile aldehydes, mention may be made of:
[0132] - linear Cs or C9 aldehydes, and
[0133] - branched C9 or C11 aldehydes.
[0134] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight of volatile compound(s) (b), relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0135] In the context of the invention, the abovementioned ingredients, i.e. the silica and the volatile compound(s), are formulated in an emulsion and are combined therein with at least one specific surfactant, making it possible both to guarantee the stability while not adversely affecting the qualities provided by the silica and the volatile compound(s), i.e. rapid volatility at the time of application, followed by the formation of a deposit after drying, giving a feeling of comfort and a powdery perception.
[0136] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant (c) comprising at least one, particularly linear or branched and more preferentially linear, C2-C14 hydrocarbon-based chain.
[0137] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant (c) selected from alkyl (poly)glycosides comprising at least one C2-C14 hydrocarbon-based chain, and mixtures thereof.
[0138] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “alkyl (poly)glycoside” means an alkyl monosaccharide (degree of polymerization equal to 1) or alkyl polysaccharide (degree of polymerization greater than 1), and derivatives thereof such as the anionic alkyl (poly)glycoside derivatives.
[0139] In particular, the alkyl (poly)glycosides are of formula (VI):
[0140] [Chem 6]
[0141] R-O-(G)a (VI) in which:
[0142] - the radical R denotes a linear or branched C2-C14 alkyl radical; preferably, the radical R is C8-C13, more preferentially C8-C12, particularly C10-C12, for example C10;
[0143] - the group G is a saccharide residue; and - a, which is the degree of polymerization, is a number ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5, particularly from 1 to 3.
[0144] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the radical R denotes a linear Cs- Ci4, preferentially Cs-Ci2, more preferentially C10-C12, alkyl radical.
[0145] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the saccharide residue G may be selected from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose or starch. More preferentially, the saccharide residue G denotes at least one glucose unit. Particularly, each unit of the (poly) saccharide part of the alkyl (poly)glycoside may be in a or P isomer form, in L or D form, and the configuration of the saccharide residue may be of furanoside or pyranoside type. The degree of polymerization, i.e., the value of a in the formula (IV), can range from 1 to 3. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5 and more preferentially from 1.1 to 2.
[0146] It is, of course, possible to use mixtures of alkyl (poly) saccharides, it being possible for each alkyl (poly) saccharide to differ from one another in the nature of the borne alkyl unit and / or the nature of the bearing polysaccharide chain.
[0147] As examples of alkyl (poly)glycosides. mention may be made of:
[0148] - decyl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by Kao Chemicals, or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by BASF, or the product sold under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by SEPPIC;
[0149] - caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by Cognis or ORAMIX CG 110® by SEPPIC;
[0150] - lauryl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by BASF or Plantaren 1200 N® by BASF;
[0151] - cocoyl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by BASF;
[0152] - methyl cocoyl glucoside, sold under the name Eumulgin GTS by Cognis; and
[0153] - caprylyl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by Cognis. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises decyl glucoside (INCI name: DECYL GLUCOSIDE), particularly the product sold under the name PLANTACARE® 2000 UP by BASF.
[0154] The alkyl (poly)glycoside can also be used as a mixture with at least one fatty alcohol, particularly a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, and more particularly a C12-C22 fatty alcohol.
[0155] The term "C8-C30 fatty alcohol" means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH.
[0156] Preferably, the fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 30, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even better still from 14 to 22, carbon atoms.
[0157] The fatty alcohols that can be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from lauryl alcohol (1 -dodec anol), myristyl alcohol (1 -tetradecanol), cetyl alcohol (1 -hexadecanol), stearyl alcohol (1 -octadecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), behenyl alcohol (1 -docosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol), montanyl alcohol (1- octacosanol) and myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol).
[0158] For example, it is possible to use in combination a fatty alcohol and an alkyl (poly)glycoside, the alkyl part of which is identical to that of the selected fatty alcohol. The fatty alcohol / alkyl polyglycoside emulsifying mixtures as defined above are known per se. They are described particularly in applications WO92 / 06778, WO95 / 13863 and WO98 / 47610 and prepared according to the preparation processes indicated in these documents. Among the particularly preferred fatty alcohol / alkyl polyglycoside mixtures, mention may be made of the products sold by SEPPIC under the MONTANOV® name, such as the following mixtures:
[0159] - cetylstearyl alcohol / cocoyl glucoside - MONTANOV 82®;
[0160] - arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidyl glucoside - MONTANOV 802®;
[0161] - myristyl alcohol / myristyl glucoside - MONTANOV 14®; and
[0162] - cocoyl alcohol / cocoyl glucoside - MONTANOV S®. As alkyl (poly)glycosides, mention may also be made of anionic alkyl (poly)glycoside derivatives, such as glycerol citrates, tartrates, sulfosuccinates, carbonates and ethers manufactured from alkyl (poly)glycosides, such as the sodium salt of cocoyl polyglucoside tartartic ester sold under the name EUCAROL AGE-ET® by Cesalpinia, the disodium salt of cocoyl polyglucoside sulfo succinnic ester sold under the name ESSAI 512 MP® by Seppic, the sodium salt of cocoyl polyglucoside citric ester sold under the name EUCAROL AGE-EC® by Cesalpinia, the sodium lauryl polyglucoside carboxylate ether sold under the name PLANTAPON LGC SORB by Cognis.
[0163] Acylamino acids
[0164] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant (c) selected from alkali metal salts of (C6-Ci4)acylglutamic acids and mixtures thereof.
[0165] The alkali metal salts are, for example, the sodium salts, the potassium salts and the lithium salts, and preferably the sodium salts.
[0166] Mention may particularly be made of alkali metal salts of lauroyl glutamic acid or of cocoyl glutamic acid, for instance the disodium cocoyl glutamate sold by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft ECS-22SB, the sodium lauroyl glutamate (INCI name: SODIUM LAUROYL GLUTAMATE) sold by Ajinomoto under the name AMISOFT® LS 11, the sodium and disodium stearoyl glutamates sold by Ajinomoto under the names AMISOFT® HS21 P and AMISOFT® HS 11 Pf.
[0167] Gemini surfactants
[0168] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant (c) selected from gemini surfactants comprising at least one C2-C14 hydrocarbon-based chain and mixtures thereof.
[0169] The term “gemini surfactant” means a surfactant comprising at least two hydrophilic heads linked together by a spacer group and at least two hydrophobic tails, with each hydrophobic tail being linked to a hydrophilic head. The spacer group can be polar or apolar, flexible or rigid, and short or long. The hydrophilic heads can be be anionic, cationic or nonionic. In particular, the gemini surfactant comprises two hydrophilic heads interconnected by a spacer, and two hydrophobic tails.
[0170] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the gemini surfactant is selected from the compounds of formula (VII) and mixtures thereof, and also the stereoisomers thereof: [Chem 7] in which:
[0171] - Y’ independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali metal salt of a carboxylic acid group, such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group;
[0172] - j 1, kl, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (j 1, kl, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2); and
[0173] - 1 represents an integer ranging from 4 to 12, preferably from 6 to 12 and advantageously from 8 to 12.
[0174] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (VII), 1 represents an integer ranging from 8 to 12, j 1 = j2 = 0, and kl = k2 = 2.
[0175] Preferably, in the formula (VII), Y' represents -COONa, j 1 = j2 = 0, kl = k2 = 2 and 1 = 10. As examples of gemini surfactants of formula (VII), mention may be made of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine (INCI name: SODIUM DILAURAMIDOGLUTAMIDE LYSINE) and sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine. In particular, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is used. Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is sold, for example, by ASAHI KASEI under the names PELLICER™ L-30, PELLICER™ LB-30G and PELLICER™ LB- 10.
[0176] The gemini surfactant(s) of formula (VII) is (are) particularly described in patent application WO 2004 / 020394.
[0177] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the gemini surfactant is selected from the compounds of formula (VIII) and mixtures thereof, and also the stereoisomers thereof:
[0178] [Chem 8] in which:
[0179] - R12 and Rio denote, independently of each other, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 14 carbon atoms;
[0180] - Rn denotes a spacer constituted of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 14 carbon atoms;
[0181] - X and Y denote, independently of each other, a group -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O)bZ in which Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM)2, -C2H4-SO3M, - C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, in which M represents H or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, a ranges from 0 to 7, b ranges from 0 to 4, and the sum of 2a + 3b is less than or equal to 14; and
[0182] - n ranges from 1 to 10.
[0183] The gemini surfactant of formula (VIII) is preferably such that each of the groups R12-CO- and R10-CO- comprises from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes a coconut fatty acid residue (predominantly comprising lauric acid and myristic acid).
[0184] In addition, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has an average value ranging from 1 to 11, and a preferred group for Z is the - SO3M group, where M is preferably an alkali metal ion, such as a sodium ion.
[0185] The spacer group Rn is advantageously constituted of a linear C1-C3 alkylene chain, and preferably an ethylene (CH2CH2) chain. Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.
[0186] A surfactant of this type is in particular the one identified by the INCI name Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG- 15 sulfate having the following structure: [Chem 9]
[0187] O
[0188] II / (PEG- 15)— SO, Na cocoyl — C— N
[0189] CH2
[0190] CH,
[0191] .1"
[0192] COCOy| — C-N -(pEG.i5)-So3Na
[0193] O it being understood that PEG represents the group -CH2CH2O- and cocoyl represents the coconut fatty acid residue.
[0194] This surfactant has a molecular structure very similar to that of ceramide-3.
[0195] Preferably, the gemini surfactant of formula (VIII) is used as a mixture with other surfactants, and particularly as a mixture with a glyceryl ester of a C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably C14-C20 such as a stearate), a diester of a C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably C14-C20 such as a stearate) and of citric acid and of glycerol (particularly a diester of a C6-C22 fatty acid and of glyceryl monocitrate), and a C10-C30 fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol). Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG- 15 Sulfate, of glyceryl stearate, of glyceryl stearate monocitrate and of behenyl alcohol.
[0196] The gemini surfactant of formula (VIII) may be used, for example, as a mixture with other surfactants in the form of the products sold by SASOL under the name CERALUTION®, and particularly the following products:
[0197] - Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG- 15 Sulfate,
[0198] - Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG- 15 Sulfate,
[0199] - Ceralution® ES: Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG- 15 Disulfate and Ceteareth-25, or
[0200] - Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG- 15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabic, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI names). According to a particular embodiment, the surfactant (c) is selected from:
[0201] (i) alkyl (poly)glycosides, in particular alkyl (poly)glycosides of formula (VI):
[0202] [Chem 10]
[0203] R-O-(G)a (VI) in which:
[0204] - the radical R denotes a linear or branched C2-C14 alkyl radical; preferably, the radical R is C8-C13, more preferentially C8-C12, particularly C10-C12, for example C10;
[0205] - the group G is a saccharide residue; and
[0206] - a, which is the degree of polymerization, is a number ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5, particularly from 1 to 3;
[0207] (ii) acylamino acids, in particular alkali metal salts of N- acylamino acids, more particularly glutamates, such as sodium lauroyl glutamate;
[0208] (iii) gemini surfactants, in particular gemini surfactants of formula (VII) and the stereoisomers thereof:
[0209] [Chem 11] in which:
[0210] - Y’ independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali metal salt of a carboxylic acid group, such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group;
[0211] - j 1, kl, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (j 1, kl, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2); and - 1 represents an integer ranging from 4 to 12, preferably from 6 to 12 and advantageously from 8 to 12; and
[0212] (iv) mixtures thereof.
[0213] Use may be made of a mixture of the surfactants described previously.
[0214] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.2% to 6% by weight of surfactant(s) (c), relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0215] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.2% to 6% by weight of surfactant(s) (c), including at least the compound having the INCI name: SODIUM DILAURAMIDOGLUTAMIDE LYSINE, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0216] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone surfactants. The term “silicone surfactant” means a surfactant which comprises at least one (-Si-O-) group.
[0217] It is noted that it is possible for one or more surfactant(s) (c) comprising at least one C2-C14 hydrocarbon-based chain to be present in the composition along with other additional, different surfactant(s), the presence of which does not adversely affect the abovementioned advantageous properties, in particular in terms of stability, feeling of comfort and powdery perception.
[0218] Additional
[0219] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional surfactant different from the surfactant(s) (c) comprising at least one C2-C14 hydrocarbon-based chain. An additional surfactant is selected, for example, from nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof. The nonionic surfactant(s) can include one or more of the following elements: PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4 sebacate / polyhydroxystearate diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, and a combination thereof. The nonionic surfactant can for example be selected from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, with these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and including at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, 14 to 18 carbon atoms. The number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups in the preceding compounds can range from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups can range from 1 to 30. Mention may be made of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide copolymers; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid sorbitan esters comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, ethoxylated oils of plant origin, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, mono- or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of glycerol; C15-C24 alkyl (poly)glycosides; C15-C24 N-alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides such as C15 alkylamine oxides or C15 N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; and mixtures thereof.
[0220] The nonionic surfactants may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxy alkylene units are more preferably oxy ethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxy ethylene units.
[0221] In some cases, the nonionic surfactant can be selected from esters of polyols with saturated- chain or unsaturated-chain fatty acids containing for example from 15 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 15 to 22 carbon atoms, and the alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having a number of alkylene oxides from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of one or more C15-C24, preferably C15-C22, fatty acids, and the alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having a number of alkylene oxides from 10 to 200 and more preferably from 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of one or more C15-C24, preferably C15-C22, fatty acids, and the alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having a number of alkylene oxides from 10 to 200 and more preferably from 10 to 100; sorbitol esters of one or more C15-C24, preferably C15-C22, fatty acids, and the alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having a number of alkylene oxides from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) esters of one or more C15-C24, preferably C15-C22, fatty acids, and the alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having a number of alkylene oxides from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; fatty alcohol ethers; ethers of sugar and one or more C15-C24, preferably C15-C22 fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof.
[0222] Examples of ethoxylated fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include esters of ethylene oxide with palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid or behenic acid esters, and mixtures thereof, in particular those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG- 50 behenate); 100 EO polyethylene glycol mono stearate (under the CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof. As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, mention may particularly be made of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. As C15-C24 alkoxylated glyceryl esters of fatty acids, mention may for example be made of polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and / or tristearate) such as the PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (INCI name: PEG-20 STEARATE) sold under the name MYRJ™ S20 by Croda Home Care. Mixtures of these surfactants, for instance the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate (INCI name: GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE), sold under the name ARLACEL™ 165 by Croda Inc., and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono stearate and distearate) and potassium stearate sold under the name TEG1N by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE), can also be used.
[0223] Aqueous phase
[0224] As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one physiologically acceptable aqueous phase. The term “physiologically acceptable” means a medium compatible with keratin materials. The composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The aqueous phase is the continuous phase.
[0225] A composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one water-soluble solvent.
[0226] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerol, alcohols such as C1-C30, C1-C15, C1-C10 or C1-C4 alcohols, and for example the C1-C5 monoalcohols described previously, organic solvents of the polyol type (polyhydric alcohols), glycol type (for example butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), and a mixture thereof.
[0227] As examples of organic solvents, non-limiting mention may be made of monoalcohols and polyols, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers, for instance monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or the ethers thereof, for example propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol or dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. The water-soluble solvents can be organic solvents which can be volatile compounds as described previously, or non-volatile compounds.
[0228] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanediols such as glycerol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene- 1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-l,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-l,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, diethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono- n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-tert-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-tert-butyl ether, 1 -methyl- 1 -methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-tert-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol monoisopropyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3- dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethylsulfoxide, sorbitol, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfone and mixtures thereof.
[0229] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 20% to 70% by weight, preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight, and more preferentially from 40% to 70% by weight of aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0230] It is also noted that the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention can comprise water-soluble additives such as water-soluble gelling agents.
[0231] The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one gelling agent. Such a gelling agent can be a rheology-modifying and / or -stabilizing polymer. In other words, the gelling agent particularly contributes to achieving the desired consistency of a composition according to the invention. Of course, such an optional addition of gelling agent is carried out without adversely affecting the abovementioned advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention, in particular in terms of stability, feeling of comfort and powdery perception.
[0232] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic gelling agent, for example synthetic or natural.
[0233] The term “water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer” means polymers which, for example, introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C at a concentration by weight equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, in particular having a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample of 1 cm in thickness, of at least 60%, preferably of at least 70%.
[0234] The hydrophilic gelling agent (or thickener) can particularly be selected from: 1) carboxyvinyl polymers
[0235] The carboxyvinyl polymers may or may not be modified.
[0236] Among the carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may be made of those sold under the following names:
[0237] - Carbopol® from Goodrich or SYNTHALEN® K (INCI name: carbomer) from 3V Sigma USA Inc.;
[0238] - Pemulen™ from Goodrich or CARBOPOL® ULTREZ 21 POLYMER (INCI name: Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) from Lubrizol;
[0239] - AQUPEC MG N40R (INCI name: Sodium Carbomer) from SUMITOMO SEIKA;
[0240] - ACULYN™ 88 POLYMER (INCI name: Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) from Dow Chemical;
[0241] - ACULYN™ 28 POLYMER (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) from Dow Chemical;
[0242] - ARISTOELEX® Velvet from Clariant (INCI name: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer- 11).
[0243] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one carboxyvinyl polymer selected from a carbomer (INCI name: carbomer), for example SYNTHALEN® K from 3V Sigma USA Inc., the compound having the INCI name Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, for example CARBOPOL® ULTREZ 21 POLYMER from Lubrizol, and mixtures thereof.
[0244] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 10%, in particular from 0.02% to 8%, more particularly from 0.05% to 5%, of carboxyvinyl polymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0245] The carboxyvinyl polymers can also act as polyacrylate salts. These are in particular crosslinked and neutralized polymers, in non-particulate form.
[0246] Mention may also be made of polymers having the INCI name sodium polyacrylate, such as Cosmedia SP® or crosslinked sodium polyacrylate containing 90% solids and 10% water, Cosmedia SPL® or sodium polyacrylate as an inverse emulsion containing approximately 60% dry active matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth- 5), both sold by BASF. particularly homopolymers or copolymers, which are crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) monomer, in particular in the form partially or completely neutralized by a mineral base other than aqueous ammonia, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.
[0247] These AMPS polymers can be completely or virtually completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%.
[0248] These AMPS polymers can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
[0249] The AMPS polymers suitable for the invention are hydrophilic, that is to say water-soluble or water-dispersible. They can be:
[0250] - either “homopolymers” comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents, such as those defined below;
[0251] - or copolymers obtained from AMPS and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic monomers, for example ethylenically unsaturated monomers, and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents, such as those defined below. When said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, they are preferably present in small amounts.
[0252] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50000 g / mol to 10000000 g / mol, preferably from 80000 g / mol to 8 000000 g / mol, and even more preferably from 100000 g / mol to 7 000000 g / mol.
[0253] As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers suitable for the invention, mention may for example be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as that used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), or crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate (INCI name: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLDIMEHYLTAURAMIDE or AMMONIUM POLY ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE) such as the product sold under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS® by Clariant.
[0254] As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention, mention may for example be made of:
[0255] - crosslinked acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers, such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: POLYACRYLAMIDE / C13-C14 ISOPARAFFIN / LAURETH-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: ACRYLAMIDE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / ISOHEXADECANE / POLYSORBATE-80) by SEPPIC;
[0256] - copolymers of AMPS® and of vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name ARISTOFLEX AVC® by CLARIANT (CTFA name: AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;
[0257] - copolymers of AMPS® and of sodium acrylate, for instance the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL EG® by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV EM (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / S ODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);
[0258] - copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance the AMPS © / hydroxy ethyl acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL NS® by SEPPIC (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (AND) SQUALANE (AND) POLYSORBATE 60) or such as the product sold under the name SODIUM ACRYLAMIDO-2-METHYLPROPANESULFONATE / HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE, such as the commercial product SEPINOV EMT 10 (INCI name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);
[0259] - copolymers of AMPS® and of ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate, which are optionally crosslinked, such as Aristoflex® HMS, which bears the name AMPS / ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate copolymer (25 EO) 80 / 20, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) or else Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer as INCI name.
[0260] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) polymer, in particular selected from crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate (INCI name: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLDIMEHYLTAURAMIDE or AMMONIUM POLY ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE), more particularly the product sold under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS® by Clariant.
[0261] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 10%, in particular from 0.02% to 8%, more particularly from 0.05% to 5% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) polymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0262] An “oily phase” is a phase comprising at least one oil, which may include additional liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and fatty substances.
[0263] The oils in the oily phase can be volatile, such as the volatile oils described previously, or non-volatile.
[0264] The term “non-volatile oil” refers to an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that particularly has a vapour pressure of less than 10'3mmHg (0.13 Pa).
[0265] The composition according to the invention can contain non-volatile oils, but, of course, these must not have an impact on the desired properties, in particular in terms of stability, feeling of comfort and powdery perception.
[0266] Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils
[0267] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils. For example, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil can be a saturated hydrocarbon, an unsaturated hydrocarbon, lipids, triglycerides, a natural oil and / or a synthetic oil.
[0268] Mention may be made of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as:
[0269] (i) hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths of from C4 to C24, it being possible for these chains to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are particularly wheatgerm oil, rice bran oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, com oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, Limnanthes alba seed oil (INCI name: Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil); or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel. Mention may also be made of cocoyl caprylate / caprate, for example sold under the name Cetiol LC by Cognis or under the name DUB 810 C by Stearinerie Dubois;
[0270] (ii) synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
[0271] (ii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane;
[0272] (iv) synthetic esters, for example the oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is particularly branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R + R' > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by Stearinerie Dubois, alcohol or poly alcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as linear C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industrial, and also linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; or acetates;
[0273] (v) fatty alcohols containing a linear or branched carbon-based chain which can be saturated or unsaturated, having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol (INCI name: STEARYL ALCOHOL), isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, cis-4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, myricyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;
[0274] (iv) higher C19-C22 fatty acids;
[0275] (vii) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis; and
[0276] (viii) fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205® by Ajinomoto; and
[0277] (iv) mixtures thereof.
[0278] According to a particular embodiment, the oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non- silicone oils, such as the abovementioned volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, the abovementioned non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0279] The term “non-silicone oil" means an oil not comprising any silicon atoms and particularly no Si-0 groups.
[0280] Preferentially, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 1.0% by weight, in particular less than 0.5% by weight, of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly does not contain silicone oil(s).
[0281] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 40% by weight, preferentially from 10% to 35% by weight, and more preferentially from 15% to 30% by weight of oily phase, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition
[0282] The composition used according to the invention may be in any presentation form normally used in the cosmetics field.
[0283] It may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a gel, a white or coloured cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum or a paste.
[0284] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended for application to the skin. This may be the skin of the face and / or of the body, in particular of the face and / or of the neck and / or of the hands.
[0285] The composition according to the invention may comprise any constituent usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.
[0286] Preferably, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed off after application.
[0287] Cosmetic active agents and adjuvants
[0288] The compositions according to the present invention may, of course, contain one or more active agents and adjuvants, particularly chosen from cosmetic active agents, particularly active agents for the skin, sunscreens, dyes, nacres, pigments, fragrances, preservatives, pH adjusters, film-forming agents, fillers in addition to the hydrophilic silica, iron oxide, etc. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds and / or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
[0289] For example, a composition according to the invention can comprise one or more pH correctors (for example sodium and / or potassium hydroxide), one or more fragrances, one or more salts, one or more dyes and / or colouring agents or one or more preservatives (for example chlorphenesin).
[0290] Non-limiting examples of active ingredients for the skin include anti-ageing agents, depigmenting agents, antiwrinkle agents, agents for treating greasy skin, mattifying agents, antioxidants, vitamins, anti-acne agents, anti-inflammatory agents and electrolytes. Uses and processes
[0291] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined previously in the cosmetics field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up bodily or facial skin.
[0292] According to another of its aspects, the invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material in which a composition as defined in the present invention is applied to the keratin material.
[0293] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic. The cosmetic use or process of the invention is performed by topically administering a composition according to the invention.
[0294] Topical administration is constituted of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques for the use of these compositions.
[0295] By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or process according to the invention may be performed by topical application, for example daily, of at least one composition according to the invention, which may be formulated in the form of a gel, a white or coloured cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum or a paste.
[0296] According to one embodiment, the application is repeated, for example, once or twice a day for one or more days and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of stoppage.
[0297] According to one embodiment, the application is daily (once a day) and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of stoppage.
[0298] According to an embodiment variant, the composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin that have been previously cleansed using a washing solution.
[0299] Throughout the description, including the claims, the terms “between ... and ...”, and “ranging from ... to ...” should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.
[0300] The examples that follow illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope thereof. In the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the amounts of the ingredients present in the compositions are given as weight percentages of starting material, relative to the total weight of the composition. Examples
[0301] MATERIALS AND METHODS
[0302] Starting materials
[0303] In the examples below, the compounds are identified by their INCI name:
[0304] The “SODIUM LAUROYL GLUTAMATE” is sold under the name AMISOFT® LS 11 by Ajinomoto;
[0305] The “DECYL GLUCOSIDE” is sold under the name PLANTACARE® 2000 UP by BASF (containing 53% by weight of active matter relative to the total weight of starting material); The “SODIUM DILAURAMIDOGLUTAMIDE LYSINE” is sold under the name PELLICER™ LB-30G by ASAHI KASEI (containing 27.3% by weight of active matter relative to the total weight of starting material);
[0306] The “GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG- 100 STEARATE” is sold under the name ARLACEL™ 165 by Croda Inc.;
[0307] The “PEG-20 STEARATE” is sold under the name MYRJ™ S20 by Croda Home Care; The “C9- 12 ALKANE” is sold under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK 100 by BIOSYNTHIS; The “CARBOMER” is sold under the name SYNTHALEN® K by 3V Sigma USA Inc.;
[0308] The “AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE” is sold under the name HOSTACERIN® AMPS by Clariant;
[0309] The “ACRYLATES / C 10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER” is sold under the name CARBOPOL® ULTREZ 21 POLYMER by Lubrizol;
[0310] The “SILICA” is sold under the name SOLESPHERE™ H51 by AGC Chemicals Americas or SUNSPHERE® H51 by Asahi Glass AGC Group;
[0311] The “LAUROYL LYSINE” is sold under the name AMIHOPE ® LL by Ajinomoto; and The “SILICA (and) TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN” is sold under the name SUNSIL-SILK by Sunjin Beauty Science.
[0312] Stability measurement protocol
[0313] The stability of all the compositions is assessed at the end of their preparation and, for one of them, also after two months of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C.
[0314] The properties evaluated are:
[0315] - the pH of the composition, measured using a pH-meter; - the viscosity of the composition, measured with a viscometer, for example a Lamy Rheology Rheomat RM 100 Plus viscometer (equipped with a thermostatic bath), according to the CID-012-02 method, particularly for 10 min;
[0316] - the appearance of the composition, in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by observation of the composition under a light microscope in non-polarized light, between slide and coverslip, at xlO magnification;
[0317] - the colour and odour of the composition;
[0318] - macroscopic destabilization of the composition, which may be manifested in the appearance of creaming, coalescence, sedimentation and / or flocculation, the formation of a film at the surface, and / or mottling, phase separation, etc.
[0319] Evaluation of the abovementioned properties is always performed at 25 °C, regardless of whether or not the compositions to be tested have been exposed to prolonged storage conditions and / or at temperatures other than 25°C.
[0320] A composition is considered to be stable after separation when no macroscopic destabilization, particularly phase separation, is observed.
[0321] A composition is considered to remain stable when its properties, after two months of storage at 4°C, 25°C or 45°C, remain close to those characterized just after preparation. In particular, if the composition remains thick, smooth and homogeneous, with no signs of destabilization and with no significant change in pH, viscosity, colour or odour, then it is considered to be stable.
[0322] Protocol for evaluation of the sensory impression
[0323] The technical effects relating to the sensory impression after application of the compositions, particularly with regard to the feeling of comfort and the powdery effect, were demonstrated via the following protocol, carried out by five assessors:
[0324] - application of a defined amount of a composition, corresponding to 0.2 g, on the back of the hand;
[0325] - spreading of the composition circularly and evenly over the half-back of the hand, making 15 circles in 15 seconds; and
[0326] - evaluation of the comfort and powdery effect 2 minutes 30 after application of the composition. Example 1: preparation of compositions according to the invention and of comparative compositions
[0327] Six compositions according to the invention (II, 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16) which differ respectively either in terms of the amount of hydrophilic silica, or the chemical nature of the surfactant (d), or the amount of surfactant (d) considered, and three compositions not in accordance with the invention (Cl, C2 and C3) not containing surfactant (d), were prepared according to the preparation protocol described below, with the nature of the ingredients and the respective amounts thereof being listed in Table 1. The contents are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0328] Process for preparing the compositions
[0329] The components of phase A are mixed in a Rayneri mixer equipped with a mobile rotor / stator and a deflocculator, followed by the addition of boiling water to the mixture obtained.
[0330] The components of phase Bl are heated to 75-85°C (melting of the fatty substances). The mixture obtained is added to phase A, with stirring by rotor / stator (1300 rpm), without heating. The mixture obtained is cooled to a temperature below 55°C, followed by the addition of phase B2, with stirring by rotor / stator. The emulsion obtained is examined under the microscope after 10 minutes. The components of phase C are added to the emulsion, with stirring by the deflocculator. The mixture obtained is cooled to a temperature below 30°C, followed by the addition of phase E, with stirring by the deflocculator, with stirring by rotor / stator. The emulsion obtained is once again examined under the microscope after 10- 15 minutes. The components of phase D are added portionwise to the emulsion, cooled by an ice bath, and with stirring by the deflocculator. The phase F is added to the mixture, with stirring by the deflocculator, such that the temperature remains below 30°C.
[0331] [Table 1]
[0332] *the composition remains structurally homogeneous It is observed that the six compositions II to 16 according to the invention are compliant in terms of stability after preparation; particularly, no phase separation is observed, compared to comparative compositions Cl to C3, despite some of them being formulated with a large amount of hydrophilic silica.
[0333] The feeling of comfort and of the powdery effect was characterized on application for compositions II to 16 according to the invention following the evaluation protocol described above. It is observed that compositions II to 16 according to the invention are satisfactory in terms of comfort and powdery effect.
[0334] Example 2 - Characterization of the storage stability of a composition according to the invention of Example 1
[0335] The stability of composition 16 according to the invention was evaluated on conclusion of two months of storage at 4°C, 25 °C and 45 °C (Table 2).
[0336] [Table 2]
[0337] Composition 16 according to the invention was found to be satisfactory at two months and 4°C, 25 °C and 45 °C in terms of properties, particularly in terms of appearance, colour, odour, viscosity, pH, and microscopic characteristics. Composition 16 according to the invention thus remain stable at two months and 4°C, 25°C and 45°C, more particularly under drastic conditions at two months and 45°C.
Claims
Claims1. Composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:(a) at least 7% by weight of a hydrophilic silica, relative to the total weight of the composition;(b) at least 5% by weight of volatile compound(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, selected from C1-C5 monoalcohols, volatile Cs-Ci6 hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile Cs-Ci6 ester oils, volatile Cs-Ci6 ether oils, volatile Cs-Ci6 carbonic acid ester oils, volatile Cs-Ci6 ketone oils, volatile Cs-Ci6 aldehyde oils, and mixtures thereof; and(c) at least one surfactant comprising at least one C2-C14 hydrocarbon-based chain selected from alkyl (poly)glycosides comprising at least one C2-C 14 hydrocarbon-based chain, alkali metal salts of (C6-Ci4)acylglutamic acids, gemini surfactants comprising at least one C2-C 14 hydrocarbon-based chain, and mixtures thereof.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, in which said hydrophilic silica (a) is amorphous.
3. Composition according to either one of Claims 1 and 2, in which said hydrophilic silica (a) is selected from silicas having an average particle diameter ranging from 1 pm to 30 pm, in particular from 1 pm to 25 pm, and more particularly from 1 pm to 20 pm.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 10% by weight, in particular at least 12% by weight, and more particularly 14% by weight of hydrophilic silica(s) (a), relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 5% to 35%, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight and more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight of volatile compounds (b), relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one C1-C5 monoalcohol, and in particular ethanol.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one volatile Cs-Ci6 hydrocarbon-based oil, in particular selected from linear or branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, and more particularly linear or branched C9-C12 alkane oils.
8. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight and more preferentially from 5% to 15% by weight of volatile Cs-Ci6 hydrocarbon-based oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one volatile ester oil, in particular selected from linear or branched Cs-Ci6 esters, more particularly branched Cs-Ci6 esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one volatile ether oil, in particular selected from volatile Cs-Ci6 ethers, more particularly linear or branched C10-C13 ethers, and mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said surfactant (c) being selected from:(i) alkyl (poly)glycosides of formula (VI):R-O-(G)a (VI) in which- the radical R denotes a linear or branched C2-C14 alkyl radical; preferably, the radical R is C8-C13, more preferentially C8-C12, particularly C10-C12, for example C10;- the group G is a saccharide residue; and- a, which is the degree of polymerization, is a number ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5, particularly from 1 to 3;(ii) sodium lauroyl glutamate;(iii) gemini surfactants of formula (VII) and the stereoisomers thereof:in which:- Y’ independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali metal salt of a carboxylic acid group, such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group;- jl, kl, j2 and k2 represent an integer such that (jl, kl, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2); and- 1 represents an integer ranging from 4 to 12, preferably from 6 to 12 and advantageously from 8 to 12; and(iv) mixtures thereof.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight and more preferentially from 0.2% to 6% by weight of surfactant(s) (c), relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising:- from 7% to 35% by weight of hydrophilic silica(s) (a), relative to the total weight of the composition;- from 5% to 35% by weight of volatile compounds (b), relative to the total weight of the composition, including at least one volatile Cs-Ci6 hydrocarbon-based oil, in particular selected from linear or branched Cs-Ci6 alkane oils, and more particularly from linear or branched C9-C12 alkane oils; and- 0.05% to 10% by weight of surfactant(s) (c), relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 20% to 70% by weight, preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight, and more preferentially from 40% to 70% by weight, of aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising less than 1.0% by weight, in particular less than 0.5% by weight, of silicone compound(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly not containing any silicone composition(s).
16. Cosmetic process for treating a keratin material, in which a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims is applied to the keratin material.
17. Use of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 15, in the cosmetics field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up bodily or facial skin.
Citation Information
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