Composition comprising one specific agent, one antioxidant, one c1 to c6 monoalcohol and one particular nonionic surfactant

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: a) at least one agent selected from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof; b) at least one antioxidant; and c) at least one C1 to C6 monoalcohol; and at least one specific nonionic surfactant.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE: Composition comprising one specific agent, one antioxidant, one Ci to Ce monoalcohol and one particular nonionic surfactant

[0003] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one agent selected from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof, at least one antioxidant, at least one Ci to Ce monoalcohol, and at least one particular nonionic surfactant.

[0004] The invention also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment using this composition and to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.

[0005] Technical field

[0006] Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and / or straightening, or even repeated washing.

[0007] Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse, brittle or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.

[0008] In addition, consumers may experience problems with itching of the scalp, but also stinging or a sensation of warmth, or even desquamation of the scalp.

[0009] To overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to resort to haircare treatments that use compositions intended to condition the hair by giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially in terms of smoothness, suppleness, a natural feel and good disentangling properties, and that bring short-term effects to cope with the effects of scalp discomfort, with instant relief.

[0010] However, the existing products on the market are not necessarily entirely satisfactory and still have room for improvement, especially in their cosmetic properties, such as their feel. Moreover, these products do not always have good stability over time, there being an observable deterioration in the state of the product.

[0011] There therefore exists a real need to provide a composition that reduces or even eliminates the undesirable effects of scalp discomfort such as stinging, itching and / or the sensation of warmth, while maintaining or even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp (maintaining and / or restoring the scalp ecoflora at / to a normal level) and preserving good cosmetic properties for the hair and roots, such as a non-greasy feel in line with consumer expectations for this type of product and good individualization (a good loosened character), and that also exhibits good stability over time.

[0012] It has surprisingly been discovered that a particular cosmetic composition made it possible to achieve the objectives set out above.

[0013] Disclosure of the invention

[0014] The present invention thus provides a composition comprising: a) at least one agent selected from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof; b) at least one antioxidant; and c) at least one Ci to Ce monoalcohol; and at least one nonionic surfactant selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C8 to C40 fatty alcohols, preferably comprising from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and containing at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, poly oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing in particular from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0015] The composition according to the invention gives keratin fibres good cosmetic properties, such as a clean, non-greasy feel, as well as a clean, non-greasy visual appearance.

[0016] The composition also makes it possible to give hair a loosened character, with individualized hairs.

[0017] The composition according to the invention also permits better stability of the active ingredients in the composition; in particular, the composition according to the invention shows good stability over time, in particular after periods of storage at ambient temperature (from 15 to 25°C) (no phase separation, cloudiness and / or colouration in the composition, for example).

[0018] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to maintain or even restore the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

[0019] The present invention also provides a method for cosmetic treatment, preferably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

[0020] The present invention additionally relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment, especially of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and hair.

[0021] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above for maintaining, even restoring, the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

[0022] The expression “at least one" means one or more.

[0023] Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, especially in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0024] The invention is not limited to the examples illustrated. The characteristics of the various examples may in particular be combined within variants that are not illustrated.

[0025] For the purposes of the present invention, “hair” is understood as meaning head hair. This term does not correspond to body hair, the eyebrows or the eyelashes.

[0026] Agent a)

[0027] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises a) at least one agent selected from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof.

[0028] Preferably, the agent a) is selected from carboxylic acids comprising 3 to 5 carbon atoms, especially monocarboxylic acids, and most particularly acids comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsubstituted, aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof.

[0029] Preferably, the acid(s) comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsubstituted, aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms are selected from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably propionic acid.

[0030] The salts of the acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsubstituted, aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms are selected from alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts, more preferably from alkali metal salts, better still sodium or potassium salts, even better still sodium salts. The agent a) is advantageously selected from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, preferably from salts of propionic acid, preferably from calcium salts, sodium salts, magnesium salts, potassium salts of propionic acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sodium propionate.

[0031] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of agent(s) a) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of propionic acid and / or one of the salts thereof ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of sodium propionate ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] Antioxidant

[0035] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one antioxidant.

[0036] An “antioxidant” is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning an agent that slows or prevents the oxidation of other chemical substances coming into contact with it.

[0037] Antioxidant(s) are advantageously selected from tocopherol and esters thereof, in particular tocopherol acetate; ascorbic acid and salts thereof and derivatives thereof, in particular esters thereof, in particular ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; retinol and esters thereof, in particular retinyl palmitate; butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA); N,N'-bis(3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl)ethylenediamine and salts thereof; erythorbic acid and salts thereof; baicalin; hydroxyacetophenones, in particular p- hydroxyacetophenone, and mixtures thereof.

[0038] “Ascorbic acid derivatives” may be understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning those obtained by blocking at least one hydroxyl site, especially by esterification or etherification with phosphate, sulfate or alkyl compounds, for example. These may especially be ascorbyl magnesium phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl glucoside.

[0039] Salts of ascorbic acid or of erythorbic acid may be selected from alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, preferably alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts.

[0040] Preferably, the antioxidant(s) are selected from ascorbic acid, salts thereof and derivatives thereof, tocopherol and esters thereof, in particular tocopherol acetate, hydroxyacetophenones, in particular p-hydroxyacetophenone and mixtures thereof, preferably from ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, and more preferably the antioxidant is ascorbyl glucoside.

[0041] The total content of anti oxi dant(s) b) advantageously ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] The total content of ascorbyl glucoside advantageously ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Ci to Ce monoalcohols

[0044] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one Ci to Ce monoalcohol.

[0045] “Monoalcohol” is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning an alcohol comprising exactly one hydroxyl (-OH) function.

[0046] Thus, “Ci to Ce monoalcohol” is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning an alcohol comprising exactly one hydroxyl (-OH) function and that comprises from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0047] The monoalcohol(s) are advantageously Ci to C4 monoalcohols, in particular selected from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof, preferably the monoalcohol(s) are Ci to C3 monoalcohols, more preferably the monoalcohol is ethanol.

[0048] The total content of Ci to Ce monoalcohols advantageously ranges from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the total content of ethanol ranges from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] Nonionic surfactants

[0050] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxy ethyl enated C8 to C40 fatty alcohols, preferably comprising from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and containing at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, polyoxy ethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing in particular from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated oxy ethylenated plant oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Preferably, the saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8 to C40 fatty alcohols comprise from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, more preferably from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and containing at least one C8-C20, and especially C10-C18, alkyl chain; especially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4).

[0052] Preferably, the poly oxy ethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially mono-, di- and triesters) of sorbitan containing in particular from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide are selected from polyoxyethylenated C12-C18 fatty acid esters, in particular lauric, myristic, palmitic or stearic esters, of sorbitan containing in particular from 2 to 30 mol, better still from 2 to 20 mol, of ethylene oxide, such as:

[0053] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (Polysorbate-21),

[0054] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-20),

[0055] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-40),

[0056] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-60),

[0057] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (Polysorbate-61),

[0058] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monoalcoholeate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-80),

[0059] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monoalcoholeate (5 EO) (Polysorbate-81),

[0060] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-65),

[0061] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-85).

[0062] Preferably, the hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils are oils such as sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, groundnut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil (or coconut kernel oil), coriander oil, pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening-primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, grapeseed oil, rose oil, castor oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, camelina oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, pracaxi oil, babassu oil, mongongo oil, marula oil, arara oil, shea butter oil, and Brazil nut oil. Hydrogenated plant oils include in particular hydrogenated palm oil and hydrogenated castor oil.

[0063] Preferably, the number of moles of ethylene oxide in the oxyethylenated plant oils ranges from 2 to 200, more preferably from 10 to 100, even more preferably from 20 to 80.

[0064] More preferably, the nonionic surfactants are selected from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] Even more preferably, the nonionic surfactants are selected from oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil. Examples of such compounds include compounds of INCI name PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.

[0066] The total content of nonionic surfactant(s) advantageously ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] The composition according to the invention may comprise water, preferably in a content ranging from 40% to 95% by weight, better still from 60% to 90% by weight, even better still from 70% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] Additives

[0069] The composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive customarily used.

[0070] Additives that may be used include reducing agents, emollients, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, solubilizers, fragrances, proteins, vitamins, polymers different from those mentioned above, preservatives, fats and mixtures thereof. The pH of the composition according to the invention, when it is aqueous, advantageously varies from 5 to 9, preferably from 6 to 8, more preferably from 6.5 to 7.5.

[0071] The pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalinizing agents or acidifying agents customarily used. Examples of alkalinizing agents include aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines and mineral or organic hydroxides. Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for example acetic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0072] The present invention also provides a method for cosmetic treatment, preferably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

[0073] The present invention also provides for the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment, especially of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and hair.

[0074] The present invention also provides for the use of the composition according to the invention for maintaining, even restoring, the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

[0075] The present invention will now be described more particularly by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. The examples do however support specific features, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention.

[0076] EXAMPLES

[0077] The compositions Al and A2 described in Table 1 below were prepared: the amounts are expressed as g of active matter (% AM) unless otherwise stated.

[0078] [Table 1]

[0079] The composition Al is thus a composition according to the invention. Composition A2 is a comparative composition.

[0080] Evaluation of stability The compositions were poured into bottles and then stored at 4°C, at ambient temperature (25°C) and at 45°C, respectively. The appearance of the compositions was observed after 2 months of storage. The stability of each of the compositions was then evaluated by visual observation.

[0081] The results of the observations are summarized in Table 2.

[0082] [Table 2]

[0083] Composition Al was thus found to show improved stability by comparison with composition A2. The composition according to the invention accordingly shows improved stability over time. Sensory and visual evaluations

[0084] Compositions Al and A2 were applied to locks of natural hair (2.7 g / 27 cm) at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per g of hair; the locks were dried with a hairdryer for about 3 minutes (at a temperature of 50-90°C and at a minimum distance of 15 cm), so as to obtain a dry lock.

[0085] Visual observation: visual greasiness criterion

[0086] Three experts performed a visual observation of the locks of hair, and compared the two locks blindly, giving a score ranging from 0 to 5, in increments of 0.5.

[0087] A score of 5 means that the locks are visually very greasy (not at all visually clean), while a score of 0 means that the lock is not visually greasy at all and looks like healthy, clean hair.

[0088] The results obtained are collated in Table 3 below.

[0089] [Table 3]

[0090] It was observed by the experts that inventive composition Al did not leave the locks of hair and / or the roots visually greasy; on the contrary, the hair is clean, without fibres sticking together.

[0091] On the other hand, it was observed that the comparative composition A2 left the locks of hair visually greasy. Tactile evaluation: greasy feel criterion

[0092] The performance in terms of greasy feel was likewise evaluated by three experts. The performance was evaluated in a blind test in which each of the three experts assigned a score ranging from 0 (no greasy feel) to 5 (very greasy feel) to each of the locks of hair. In other words, the closer the score is to 0, the cleaner the feel.

[0093] To evaluate the property of greasy feel, the expert runs the lock between the thumb and index finger from the top of the lock down to the ends, at the same time making a gentle oscillating movement with the thumb to get a good feel for the presence of any deposit and for any transfer of product to the fingers.

[0094] The results obtained are collated in Table 4 below.

[0095] [Table 4]

[0096] It is clear that the locks of hair treated with the inventive composition Al have a much less greasy feel by comparison with the locks of hair treated with the comparative composition A2. The locks of hair treated with the inventive composition Al thus have a significantly cleaner feel than that of the locks of hair treated with the comparative composition A2.

[0097] The composition according to the invention thus has an improved appearance and an improved non-greasy feel.

[0098] Individualization: looseness criterion

[0099] The performance in terms of individualization of the hairs (loosened character) in the locks of dry hair as prepared previously was evaluated by three experts. The performance was evaluated in a blind test in which each of the three experts assigned a score ranging from 0 (no individualization, hairs in clumps) to 5 (hairs highly individualized) to each of the locks of hair.

[0100] The expert takes the lock and rolls the hair between the fingers: the more the hairs separate from one other, the more individualized it is. The more the hair is in clumps, the less individualized it is.

[0101] The results obtained are collated in Table 5 below.

[0102] [Table 5]

[0103] It is clear that the locks of hair treated with the inventive composition Al are more individualized by comparison with the locks of hair treated with the comparative composition A2. The locks of hair treated with composition Al of the invention are thus significantly more individualized / loosened, with a more natural result by comparison with locks of hair treated with comparative composition A2.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Composition comprising: a) at least one agent selected from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof; b) at least one antioxidant; and c) at least one Ci to Ce monoalcohol; and at least one nonionic surfactant selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C8 to C40 fatty alcohols, preferably comprising from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and containing at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, poly oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing in particular from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils, and mixtures thereof.

2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the agent a) is selected from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, preferably from salts of propionic acid, preferably from calcium salts, sodium salts, magnesium salts, potassium salts of propionic acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sodium propionate.

3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of agent(s) a) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the antioxidant is selected from tocopherol and esters thereof, ascorbic acid and salts thereof and derivatives thereof, retinol and esters thereof, butylated hydroxytoluene and butylated hydroxyanisole, N,N'-bis(3,4,5- trimethoxybenzyl)ethylenediamine and salts thereof; erythorbic acid and salts thereof; baicalin; hydroxyacetophenones, in particular p-hydroxyacetophenone, and mixtures thereof, preferably from ascorbic acid, salts thereof and derivatives thereof, tocopherol and esters thereof, in particular tocopherol acetate, hydroxyacetophenones, in particular p-hydroxyacetophenone and mixtures thereof, more preferably fromascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably the antioxidant b) is ascorbyl glucoside.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of antioxidant(s) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monoalcohol(s) is / are Ci to C4 monoalcohols, preferably Ci to C3 monoalcohols, more preferably the monoalcohol is ethanol.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of Ci to Ce monoalcohol(s) ranges from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant is selected from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of nonionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Method for cosmetic treatment, preferably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

11. Use of at least one composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 9 for cosmetic treatment, especially of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and hair.

12. Use of at least one composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 9 for maintaining, even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

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