Composition having a specific ph, comprising at least one particular agent, at least one particular antioxidant and at least one hydroxylated compound

A cosmetic composition with a specific pH and containing particular agents, antioxidants, and hydroxylated compounds effectively addresses hair damage and scalp issues by enhancing hair cosmetic properties and microbial balance while inhibiting microorganism growth.

WO2025133310A1PCT designated stage expired Publication Date: 2025-06-26LOREAL SA
View PDF 6 Cites 0 Cited by

Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/EP2024/088197
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-12-21
Filing Date
2024-12-20
Publication Date
2025-06-26

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing haircare products fail to adequately address hair damage caused by external agents and mechanical/chemical treatments, leading to dry, brittle, and dull hair, along with scalp discomfort issues like itching and microbial imbalances.

Method used

A cosmetic composition comprising specific agents, antioxidants, and hydroxylated compounds, with a pH range of 6 to 8, which provides improved hair disentangling, coating, and scalp microbial balance, while effectively inhibiting the growth of microorganisms such as Aspergillus brasiliensis, Candida albicans, and Enterococcus faecalis.

Benefits of technology

The composition significantly improves hair cosmetic properties, enhances scalp microbial balance, and exhibits enhanced antimicrobial activity against challenging microorganisms, providing long-lasting relief from scalp discomfort and maintaining hair health.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

Smart Images

  • Figure IMGF000005_0001
    Figure IMGF000005_0001
  • Figure IMGF000023_0001
    Figure IMGF000023_0001
  • Figure IMGF000016_0001
    Figure IMGF000016_0001
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof; b) at least one antioxidant chosen from aromatic ketones; and c) at least one hydroxylated compound other than the agent a) and the antioxidant b); the pH of said composition ranging from 6 to 8.
Need to check novelty before this filing date? Find Prior Art

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE: Composition having a specific pH, comprising at least one particular agent, at least one particular antioxidant and at least one hydroxylated compound

[0003] The present invention relates to a composition having a specific pH, comprising at least one particular agent, at least one particular antioxidant and at least one hydroxylated compound.

[0004] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process using this composition and to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, and also for maintaining, even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

[0005] Technical field

[0006] Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and / or straightening, or even repeated washing.

[0007] Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse, brittle or dull, notably in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.

[0008] In addition, consumers may experience problems with itching of the scalp, but also stinging or a sensation of warmth, or even desquamation of the scalp.

[0009] To overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to resort to haircare treatments that use compositions intended to condition the hair by notably giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, notably in terms of smoothness, suppleness, a natural feel and good disentangling properties, and that bring short-term effects to cope with the effects of scalp discomfort, with instant relief.

[0010] However, the existing products on the market are not necessarily entirely satisfactory and still have room for improvement, especially in their cosmetic properties, such as their feel. Moreover, these products do not always have good stability over time, there being an observable deterioration in the state of said product.

[0011] In addition, cosmetic compositions which contain a high water content, and notably shampoos, must contain preservatives to prevent the growth of microorganisms. The microorganisms may be moulds such as Aspergillus brasiliensis, yeasts such as Candida albicans or bacteria such as Enterococcus faecalis. Certain microorganisms, such as Aspergillus brasiliensis, are particularly difficult to eliminate. However, at the present time, said compositions are not always satisfactory, in particular when their pH is close to a neutral pH.

[0012] There is therefore a real need to provide a composition that makes it possible to prevent the growth of microorganisms and that makes it possible to reduce or even eliminate the undesirable effects of scalp discomfort, such as stinging, itching and / or the sensation of warmth, while maintaining, even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp (maintaining and / or restoring the ecoflora of the scalp at / to a normal level), and preserving good cosmetic properties for the hair and the roots, such as a good coating and good disentangling.

[0013] It has surprisingly been discovered that a particular cosmetic composition made it possible to achieve the objectives set out above.

[0014] Disclosure of the invention

[0015] One subject of the present invention is therefore a composition comprising: a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof; b) at least one antioxidant chosen from aromatic ketones; and c) at least one hydroxylated compound other than the agent a) and the antioxidant b); the pH of said composition ranging from 6 to 8.

[0016] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to provide the keratins fibres with good cosmetic properties, such as good disentangling of wet hair and, to the touch, a good coating of wet hair.

[0017] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to maintain, even restore the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp. It also exhibits greater activity against Aspergillus brasiliensis. Candida albicans and Enterococcus faecalis.

[0018] Another subject of the present invention is a process for cosmetic treatment, preferably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

[0019] The present invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for cosmetic treatment, notably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and the hair. The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above for maintaining, even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

[0020] Other advantages and features of the invention will become more clearly apparent upon examining the detailed description and the appended drawings, in which:

[0021] [Fig. 1] is a photo of a comb in locks of hair treated with a composition according to the invention;

[0022] [Fig. 2] is a photo of a comb in locks of hair treated with a comparative composition.

[0023] The expression “at least one" means one or more.

[0024] Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ..." .

[0025] The invention is not limited to the examples illustrated. The features of the various examples may notably be combined within variants that are not illustrated.

[0026] For the purposes of the present invention, “hair” is understood to mean head hair. This term does not correspond to body hair, the eyebrows or the eyelashes.

[0027] Agent a)

[0028] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof.

[0029] Preferably, the agent a) is chosen from carboxylic acids comprising 3 to 5 carbon atoms, notably monocarboxylic acids, and most particularly acids comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsubstituted, aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof.

[0030] Preferably, the acid(s) comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsubstituted, aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms is (are) chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially propionic acid.

[0031] The salts of the acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsubstituted, aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from alkali metal salts and alkaline-earth metal salts, more preferentially from alkali metal salts, better still sodium salts or potassium salts, even better still sodium salts. Advantageously, the agent(s) a) is (are) chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, preferably from the salts of propionic acid, preferably from the calcium salts, the sodium salts, the magnesium salts and the potassium salts of propionic acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from sodium propionate.

[0032] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of the agent(s) a) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.4% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of the agent(s) a) chosen from propionic acid and salts thereof ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.4% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of sodium propionate ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.4% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] Antioxidant

[0036] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one antioxidant b) chosen from aromatic ketones.

[0037] For the purposes of the present invention, “antioxidant” is understood to mean an agent that slows or prevents the oxidation of other chemical substances coming into contact with it.

[0038] Preferably, the antioxidant b) is chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below: in which:

[0039] - R is an aromatic ring which is substituted or unsubstituted, preferably substituted with one or more alkyl, hydroxy, amino and / or thiol groups; - R’ is a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 15 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted.

[0040] More preferentially, the anti oxi dant(s) is (are) chosen from those of formula (I) in which:

[0041] - R is an aromatic ring which is substituted with one or more hydroxy groups, preferably substituted with a single hydroxy group;

[0042] - R’ is a linear alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy, amino and / or thiol groups.

[0043] As examples of aromatic ketones that are preferred according to the invention, mention may be made of hydroxyacetophenones such as p-hydroxyacetophenone (or 4-hydroxy acetophenone), 2-hydroxy acetophenone, 3 -hydroxy acetophenone, a- hydroxyacetophenone and mixtures thereof.

[0044] Preferably, the antioxidant is p-hydroxyacetophenone.

[0045] Advantageously, the total content of the antioxidant(s) b) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Advantageously, the total content of the antioxidant(s) chosen from hydroxyacetophenones ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] Advantageously, the total content of p-hydroxyacetophenone ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] Hydroxylated compound

[0049] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydroxylated compound c) other than the agent a) and the antioxidant b) previously described.

[0050] For the purposes of the present invention, a “hydroxylated compound” is understood to mean an organic compound comprising at least one hydroxy function - OH covalently bonded to a carbon atom. Advantageously, the hydroxylated compound(s) is (are) Ci to C20, preferentially C2 to C12, compounds and comprise at least one hydroxy function -OH, notably from 1 to 8 hydroxy functions -OH, better still from 1 to 5 hydroxy functions -OH, even better still 1, 2 or 3 hydroxy functions -OH.

[0051] Preferably, the hydroxylated compound(s) c) is (are) chosen from: glycerol ethers, polyols, glycol ethers, and mixtures thereof, these compounds comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, notably 2 to 12 carbon atoms; preferentially, alone or as a mixture, from: glycerol ethers comprising a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, alkyl chain, and comprising 1 to 20 and better still 2 to 12 carbon atoms, better still 5 to 15 carbon atoms, better still 7 to 13 carbon atoms, among which mention may be made of ethylhexylglycerin and chlorphenesin, polyols comprising 1 to 20 and better still 2 to 12 carbon atoms and preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions -OH, among which mention may be made of ascorbyl glucoside; and also diols and triols comprising a linear or branched saturated chain, such as pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, glycol phenyl ethers such as phenoxyethanol.

[0052] In particular, as hydroxylated compounds that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of chlorphenesin, ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, phenoxyethanol, ascorbyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] Preferably, the hydroxylated compound(s) is (are) chosen from pentylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, glycerol, chlorphenesin, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] Preferably, the composition is devoid of phenoxyethanol.

[0055] Use may advantageously be made of a mixture of compounds c).

[0056] Advantageously, the total content of the hydroxylated compound(s) c) ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] Advantageously, the total content of the hydroxylated compound(s) c) chosen from glycerol ethers, polyols, glycol ethers, comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, notably 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of the hydroxylated compound(s) c) chosen from chlorphenesin, ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, phenoxyethanol, ascorbyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. pH

[0058] As indicated above, the pH of the composition according to the invention ranges from 6 to 8.

[0059] Preferably, the composition has a pH ranging from 6.5 to 7.5, more preferentially from 6.7 to 7.3.

[0060] Thus, the composition according to the invention comprises water, preferably in a total content ranging from 40% to 95% by weight, better still from 60% to 90% by weight, even better still from 75% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] The pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents that are commonly used. Examples of basifying agents that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, and mineral or organic hydroxides, for example sodium hydroxide. Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for example acetic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0062] Surfactant

[0063] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0064] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does comprise at least one surfactant, more preferentially chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] Anionic surfactant

[0066] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. In the present description, a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

[0067] The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) anionic surfactants. A mixture of these anionic surfactants may of course be used.

[0068] It is understood in the present description that:

[0069] - the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO') and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0070] - the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (- SO3H or -SO3 ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and

[0071] - the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.

[0072] The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO').

[0073] They may be chosen from the following compounds: acyl glycinates, acyl lactylates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, acyl alaninates; acyl isethionates, alkyl- D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(Ce-C3o aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24, indeed even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0074] Use may also be made of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycosidepolycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.

[0075] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those including from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the Akypo names.

[0076] Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0077] - acyl glutamates, notably C6-C24 or even C12-C20 acyl glutamates, such as stearoyl glutamates and cocoyl glutamates, and in particular disodium cocoyl glutamate and di sodium stearoyl glutamate;

[0078] - acyl alaninates, notably C6-C24 or even C12-C20 acyl alaninates, such as cocoyl alaninates, and in particular sodium cocoyl alaninate;

[0079] - acyl sarcosinates, notably C6-C24 or even C12-C20 acyl sarcosinates, such as palmitoyl sarcosinates, lauroyl sarcosinates, cocoyl sarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate;

[0080] - acyl lactylates, notably C12-C28 or even C14-C24 acyl lactylates, such as behenoyl lactylates and lauroyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate;

[0081] - C6-C24, or even C12-C20, acyl glycinates, such as cocoyl and lauroyl glycinates, and in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate and sodium lauroyl glycinate;

[0082] - (Ce-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, and notably (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates;

[0083] - polyoxyalkylenated (Ce-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0084] The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3 ).

[0085] They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyl taurates, acyl isethionates; alkyl sulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0086] Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0087] - C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates; notably lauryl sulfosuccinates;

[0088] - C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

[0089] - (Ce-C24)acyl isethionates, preferably (Ci2-C2o)acyl isethionates, such as cocoyl and lauroyl isethionates, and in particular sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauroyl isethionate; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0090] The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3 ).

[0091] They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be (poly)oxyalkylenated, in particular (poly)oxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0092] Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0093] - alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;

[0094] - alkyl ether sulfates, notably C6-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

[0095] - the salts thereof, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts, notably sodium (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether sulfates.

[0096] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt. Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tri s(hydroxymethyl)aminom ethane salts.

[0097] Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

[0098] Preferentially, the anionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from:

[0099] - C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;

[0100] - C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

[0101] - C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates; notably lauryl sulfosuccinates;

[0102] - C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

[0103] - (Ce-C24)acyl isethionates, preferably (Ci2-Cis)acyl isethionates;

[0104] - C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 acyl sarcosinates; notably palmitoyl sarcosinates;

[0105] - (Ce-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates;

[0106] - polyoxyalkylenated (Ce-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those including from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups;

[0107] - C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 acyl glutamates;

[0108] - C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 acyl alaninates;

[0109] - Ce -C24 and notably C12-C20 acyl glycinates;

[0110] - and also salts thereof, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or zinc, ammonium or amino alcohol salts thereof;

[0111] - and mixtures thereof.

[0112] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant chosen from C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl sulfates, C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and salts thereof, in particular alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, salts thereof and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from sodium C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates and mixtures thereof, better still from sodium laureth sulfate.

[0113] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant

[0114] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may be optionally quatemized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0115] Preferably, these surfactants are non-silicone surfactants.

[0116] Among the optionally quatemized derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective formulae (3) and (4) below:

[0117] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X’ (3) in which:

[0118] - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0119] - Rb represents a P-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0120] - Rcrepresents a carboxymethyl group;

[0121] - M+represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and

[0122] - X' represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+and X' are absent;

[0123] Ra’-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B’) (4) in which:

[0124] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX’;

[0125] - B’ represents the group -(CH2)ZY’, with z = 1 or 2;

[0126] - X’ represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;

[0127] - Y’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’; - Z’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0128] - Ra’ represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil, an alkyl group, notably a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.

[0129] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodi acetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0130] By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.

[0131] Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (5):

[0132] Ra”-NHCH(Y’ ’)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re) (5) in which:

[0133] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ” or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z”;

[0134] - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a Ci to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;

[0135] - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0136] - Ra ” represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil;

[0137] - n and n’ denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0138] Among the compounds of formula (5), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium di ethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

[0139] These compounds may be used alone or as mixtures.

[0140] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (Cs- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C6- Csjalkylsulfobetaines, and also the compounds of formulae (3), (4) and (5) as defined previously.

[0141] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3- C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

[0142] More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3- C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0143] Even more preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof; better still, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is cocobetaine.

[0144] Advantageously, the total content of the surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] Advantageously, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0146] Advantageously, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio between the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) and the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is greater than or equal to 1, preferably strictly greater than 1 , more preferentially greater than or equal to 1.5, even more preferentially greater than or equal to 2, better still greater than or equal to 2.5. Said ratio may be between 1 and 10, more preferentially between 1.5 and 8 and better still between 2 and 6.

[0148] Additives

[0149] The composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive customarily used. Additives that may be used include reducing agents, softeners, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, solubilizers, fragrances, proteins, vitamins, polymers, cationic polysaccharides, fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

[0150] Another subject of the present invention is a process for cosmetic treatment, preferably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

[0151] The present invention also provides for the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment, especially of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and hair.

[0152] The present invention also provides for the use of the composition according to the invention for maintaining, even restoring, the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

[0153] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific features, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention.

[0154] EXAMPLES

[0155] In the examples below, the compositions have a pH equal to 7 ± 0.3.

[0156] Example 1

[0157] Compositions Al and A2, as described in Table 1 below, were prepared: the amounts are expressed as g of active material (% AM) unless otherwise mentioned.

[0158] [Table 1] a) Evaluation of the microbiological performance

[0159] The effectiveness of the compositions is evaluated by means of the Challenge test which makes it possible to determine the level of antimicrobial protection of a composition.

[0160] It consists in artificially contaminating the test product with various microorganisms (bacteria, yeasts and moulds) and in monitoring the number of viable microbes over time. A product that is satisfactorily protected must enable decontamination of the microorganisms introduced.

[0161] The product is distributed in a pill dispenser into which a calibrated suspension of microorganisms, in this case the mould Aspergillus brasiliensis. is introduced. The sample is taken in order to count the microorganisms remaining in the product after 7 days of contact between the product and the microbe.

[0162] The dilutions carried out in order to perform the countings are inoculated on Petri dishes. The kinetics (growth or decrease) for the microbe is then expressed as logarithmic reduction at a given time.

[0163] The microbiological risk is considered acceptable when the logarithmic reduction of the microbe considered is greater than or equal to 3 after 7 days of microbe / product contact; that is to say, the cosmetic product is protected against microbial proliferation that may present a potential risk to the user.

[0164] Compositions Al and A2 were subjected to the Challenge test according to the protocol described above. The results on the microbial strain Aspergillus brasiliensis after 7 days of microbe / product contact are given in Table 2 below: [Table 2]

[0165] Thus, the example shows that composition Al exhibits better antimicrobial activity, in particular after 7 days of contact with Aspergillus brasiliensis. than that of comparative composition A2. b) Cosmetic performance

[0166] Compositions Al and A2 were applied to locks of natural Caucasian hair in a proportion of 0.4 g of composition per g of hair. The hair was then massaged and left to lather, and the compositions were then left to rest for 1 minute. The locks were rinsed with warm water for 15 seconds and then wrung out.

[0167] The ease of disentangling is then evaluated on wet hair.

[0168] Visual observation

[0169] The ease of disentangling is evaluated by sliding the small teeth of a comb from the top of the lock to the bottom of the lock. When the movement is hindered by a knot, a photo is taken and makes it possible to compare the length of disentangled hair, as can be seen in Figures 1 and 2. It is thus possible to compare the cosmetic effectiveness of the compositions.

[0170] Figure l is a representation of a comb which slides through a lock treated with composition Al according to the invention. Figure 2 is a representation of a comb which slides through a lock treated with comparative composition A2.

[0171] Thus, it has been observed in Figures 1 and 2 that the comb sliding through the lock treated with comparative composition A2 was stopped higher by a knot than the comb sliding through the lock treated with the composition Al according to the invention. Specifically, it can be seen by comparing Figures 1 and 2 that the comb travels a greater distance along the lock before being stopped by a knot in Figure 1. Thus, the disentangling is improved for the locks of hair treated with composition Al according to the invention, compared to the locks of hair treated with comparative composition A2. Example 2

[0172] Compositions Bl and B2, as described in Table 3 below, were prepared: the amounts are expressed as g of active material (% AM) unless otherwise mentioned.

[0173] [Table 3]

[0174] Compositions Bl and B2 were subjected to the Challenge test according to the protocol described above. The results on the microbial strain Aspergillus brasiliensis after 7 days of microbe / product contact are given in Table 4 below: [Table 4]

[0175] Thus, the example shows that composition Bl exhibits better antimicrobial activity, in particular after 7 days of contact with Aspergillus brasiliensis. than that of comparative composition B2.

[0176] Example 3

[0177] Compositions Cl and C2, as described in Table 5 below, were prepared: the amounts are expressed as g of active material (% AM) unless otherwise mentioned.

[0178] [Table 5]

[0179] Compositions Cl and C2 were applied to locks of natural Caucasian hair in a proportion of 0.4 g of composition per g of hair. The hair was then massaged and left to lather, and the compositions were then left to rest for 3 minutes. The locks were rinsed with warm water for 15 seconds and then wrung out.

[0180] The coating of the locks is evaluated by touch on wet hair.

[0181] Tactile evaluation

[0182] The coating performance, i.e. the presence of a deposit on the fibre, was evaluated by 5 experts. The performance was evaluated in a blind test during which each of the 5 experts assigned a score ranging from 0 (absence of coating to the touch) to 5 (very good coating to the touch) to each of the locks of hair. In other words, the closer the score is to 5, the more effective the coating.

[0183] To evaluate the coating by touch, the expert grasps the lock of hair and slides their fingers from the root to the end. The larger, the more uniform and the less rough the deposit, the better the coating.

[0184] The results are collated in Table 6 below.

[0185] [Table 6]

[0186] It is clear that the locks of hair treated with composition Cl according to the invention have, to the touch, an improved coating on wet hair compared to locks of hair treated with comparative composition C2. Thus, the locks of hair treated with composition Cl according to the invention are perceived by touch to be less “rough”, less coarse and more treated than the locks of hair treated with comparative composition C2.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Composition comprising: a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof; b) at least one antioxidant chosen from aromatic ketones; and c) at least one hydroxylated compound other than the agent a) and the antioxidant b); the pH of said composition ranging from 6 to 8.

2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the agent(s) a) is (are) chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, preferably from the salts of propionic acid, preferably from the calcium salts, the sodium salts, the magnesium salts and the potassium salts of propionic acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from sodium propionate.

3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of agent(s) a) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.4% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the antioxidant(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below:in which:- R is an aromatic ring which is substituted or unsubstituted, preferably substituted with one or more alkyl, hydroxy, amino and / or thiol groups, preferentially substituted with one or more hydroxy groups, more preferentially substituted with a single hydroxy group;- R’ is a linear, branched or cyclic, preferably linear, alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentiallyfrom 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy, amino and / or thiol groups.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the anti oxi dant(s) b) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydroxylated compound(s) c) is (are) Ci to C20, preferentially C2 to C12, compounds and comprises (comprise) at least one hydroxy function -OH, notably from 1 to 8 hydroxy functions -OH, better still from 1 to 5 hydroxy functions -OH, preferably chosen from glycerol ethers, polyols, glycol ethers, and mixtures thereof, these compounds comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, notably 2 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferentially, alone or as a mixture, from glycerol ethers comprising a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, alkyl chain, and comprising 1 to 20 and better still 2 to 12 carbon atoms, better still 5 to 15 carbon atoms, better still 7 to 13 carbon atoms; polyols comprising 1 to 20 and better still 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and also diols and triols comprising a linear or branched, saturated chain; glycol phenyl ethers, even more preferentially from pentylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, glycerol, chlorphenesin, and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the hydroxylated compound(s) c) ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a pH ranging from 6.5 to 7.5, preferably from 6.7 to 7.3.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the total content of the surfactants ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Process for cosmetic treatment, preferably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

12. Use of at least one composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 10 for cosmetic treatment, notably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and the hair.

13. Use of at least one composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 10 for maintaining, even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

  • Use of a short-chain fatty acid as an anti-dandruff agent

    FR3124077A1

  • NEW PRESERVATION SYSTEM

    FR3125415A1

  • Oxyacetamide compounds useful for stimulating or inducing the growth and / or retarding the loss of keratin fibers

    US20070092467A1

  • Cosmetic Preservative System

    US20210212912A1

  • Compositions comprising odorless 1,2-pentanediol

    US20220054378A1