Composition comprising a particular agent, and ascorbyl glucoside

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof; and b) ascorbyl glucoside.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE: Composition comprising a particular agent, and ascorbyl glucoside

[0003] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof, and ascorbyl glucoside.

[0004] The invention also relates to a process for cosmetic treatment using this composition and to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.

[0005] Technical field

[0006] Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and / or relaxing, or even repeated washing.

[0007] Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse, brittle or dull, notably in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.

[0008] In addition, consumers may experience problems with itching of the scalp, but also stinging or a sensation of warmth, or even desquamation of the scalp.

[0009] To overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to resort to haircare treatments that use compositions intended to condition the hair by notably giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, notably in terms of smoothness, suppleness, a natural feel and good disentangling properties, and that bring short-term effects to cope with the effects of scalp discomfort, with instant relief.

[0010] However, the existing products on the market are not necessarily entirely satisfactory and can still be improved, notably with regard to the cosmetic properties. In particular, these products do not always have good stability over time, there being an observable deterioration in the state of said product.

[0011] There is therefore a real need to provide a composition that makes it possible to reduce or even eliminate the undesirable effects of scalp discomfort, such as stinging, itching and / or the sensation of warmth, while maintaining or even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp (maintaining and / or restoring the ecoflora of the scalp at / to a normal level), and preserving good cosmetic properties for the hair and the roots, such as a non-greasy feel in line with consumer expectations for this type of product and good individualization (a good loosened character), and that also exhibits good stability over time and good homogeneity.

[0012] There is also a need to provide a composition that makes it possible to achieve an anti-dandruff performance close to that of octopirox, and a performance against adherent and non-adherent dandruff on the scalp.

[0013] It has surprisingly been discovered that a particular cosmetic composition made it possible to achieve the objectives set out above.

[0014] Disclosure of the invention

[0015] A subject of the present invention is therefore a composition comprising: a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof; and b) ascorbyl glucoside.

[0016] The composition according to the invention enables better stability of the active ingredients in the composition; in particular, the composition according to the invention exhibits good stability after its preparation and over time, in particular after periods of storage at ambient temperature (from 15°C to 25°C) (no phase separation, cloudiness and / or colouration in the composition, for example), but also at lower (around 5°C) and also higher (around 45°C) temperatures.

[0017] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to maintain or even restore the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

[0018] Another subject of the present invention is a process for cosmetic treatment, preferably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

[0019] The present invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for cosmetic treatment, notably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and the hair.

[0020] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above for maintaining or even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

[0021] The expression “at least one" means one or more.

[0022] Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ..." . The invention is not limited to the examples illustrated. The features of the various examples may notably be combined within variants that are not illustrated.

[0023] For the purposes of the present invention, “hair” is understood to mean head hair. This term does not correspond to body hair, the eyebrows or the eyelashes.

[0024] Brief description of the drawings

[0025] Other advantages and features of the invention will appear from the detailed description of embodiments of the invention, which are non-limiting examples, illustrated on the appended drawings of which :

[0026] - [Fig. 1] represents a photography of one composition according to the invention; and

[0027] - [Fig. 2] represents a photography of one comparative composition.

[0028] Agent a)

[0029] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof.

[0030] Preferably, the agent a) is chosen from carboxylic acids comprising 3 to 5 carbon atoms, notably monocarboxylic acids, and most particularly acids comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsubstituted, aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof.

[0031] Preferably, the acid(s) comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsubstituted, aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms are chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially propionic acid.

[0032] The salts of the acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsubstituted, aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts, more preferentially from alkali metal salts, better still sodium salts or potassium salts, even better still sodium salts.

[0033] Advantageously, the agent a) is chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, preferably from the salts of propionic acid, preferably from the calcium salts, the sodium salts, the magnesium salts and the potassium salts of propionic acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from sodium propionate.

[0034] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of agent(s) a) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of propionic acid and / or one of the salts thereof ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of sodium propionate ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] Ascorbyl glucoside b)

[0038] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least ascorbyl glucoside.

[0039] Ascorbyl glucoside is an antioxidant.

[0040] For the purposes of the present invention, “antioxidant” is understood to mean an agent that slows or prevents the oxidation of other chemical substances coming into contact with it.

[0041] Advantageously, the total content of ascorbyl glucoside b) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] Ci to Ce monoalcohol

[0043] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one Ci to Ce monoalcohol c).

[0044] For the purposes of the present invention, “monoalcohol” is understood to mean an alcohol comprising exactly one hydroxyl -OH function. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, “Ci to Ce monoalcohol” is understood to mean an alcohol comprising exactly one hydroxyl -OH function and comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0045] Advantageously, the monoalcohol(s) are Ci to C4 monoalcohols, in particular chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, and mixtures thereof; preferably, the monoalcohol(s) are Ci to C3 monoalcohols; more preferentially, the monoalcohol is ethanol.

[0046] Advantageously, the total content of Ci to Ce monoalcohol(s) ranges from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 15% to 30% by weight, even more preferentially from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] Preferably, the content of ethanol ranges from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 15% to 30% by weight, even more preferentially from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] Nonionic surfactants

[0049] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one nonionic surfactant d).

[0050] The nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition of the present invention are described for example in “Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178.

[0051] As examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

[0052] - oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols;

[0053] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8 to C40 alcohols, preferably including one or two fatty chains;

[0054] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8 to C30 fatty acid amides;

[0055] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;

[0056] - preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C30 acids and of sorbitol;

[0057] - fatty acid esters of sucrose;

[0058] - C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan; - oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan;

[0059] - (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides and (C8-C30)alkenyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprise from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucoside esters;

[0060] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils;

[0061] - condensates of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide;

[0062] - derivatives of N-(C8-C30)alkylglucamine and N-(C8-C30)acylmethylglucamine;

[0063] - amine oxides.

[0064] The nonionic surfactants may be chosen from alcohols, a-diols and (Cl- C20)alkylphenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range notably from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups to range notably from 1 to 30.

[0065] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides having preferably from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated plant oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0066] Mention may in particular be made of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8 to C40 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol, of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one C8-C20, notably C10- C18, alkyl chain; notably lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4).

[0067] The C8-C30, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid esters (notably mono-, di- and triesters) of sorbitan may be chosen from: sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesqui stearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate.

[0068] The poly oxy ethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (notably mono-, di- and triesters) of sorbitan notably containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from poly oxy ethylenated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, palmitic or stearic acid, and of sorbitan notably containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, better still from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:

[0069] - polyoxy ethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (Polysorbate-21),

[0070] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-20),

[0071] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-40),

[0072] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-60),

[0073] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (Polysorbate-61),

[0074] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-80),

[0075] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (Polysorbate-81),

[0076] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-65),

[0077] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-85).

[0078] The hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated oxy ethylenated plant oils may be oils such as sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, groundnut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil (or coconut kernel oil), coriander oil, pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, grapeseed oil, rose oil, castor oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, camelina oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, pracaxi oil, babassu oil, mongongo oil, marula oil, arara oil, shea butter oil, and Brazil nut oil. In particular, hydrogenated plant oils that may be mentioned include hydrogenated palm oil and hydrogenated castor oil.

[0079] The number of moles of ethylene oxide in the oxyethylenated plant oils may range from 2 to 200, preferably from 10 to 100, preferentially from 20 to 80.

[0080] Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C8 to C40 fatty alcohols comprising preferably from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing notably from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] More preferentially, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil.

[0082] Advantageously, the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] Antioxidant e)

[0084] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional antioxidant e), different from ascorbyl glucoside.

[0085] In particular, the additional antioxidant e) is different from an antioxidant chosen from ascorbic acid, derivatives thereof, isomers thereof, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] For the purposes of the present invention, “ascorbic acid derivatives” may be understood to mean those obtained by blocking at least one of the hydroxyl sites, notably by esterification or etherification with, for example, phosphate, sulfate or alkyl compounds. These may notably be magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl glucoside.

[0087] Advantageously, the additional antioxidant(s) e) are chosen from retinol and esters thereof, in particular retinyl palmitate; butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) and butylhydroxyanisole (BHA); N,N’-bis(3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and salts thereof; baicalin; hydroxyacetophenones, in particular p-hydroxyacetophenone, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of additional antioxidant(s) e) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any additional antioxidant e) different from ascorbyl glucoside as defined above.

[0090] In particular, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any antioxidant chosen from tocopherol, salts thereof and / or derivatives thereof, notably esters thereof, such as tocopheryl acetate. The composition according to the invention may comprise water, preferably at a content ranging from 40% to 95% by weight, better still from 60% to 90% by weight, even better still from 70% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] Additives

[0092] The composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive that is commonly used.

[0093] Among the additives that may be used, mention may be made of reducing agents, softeners, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, solubilizers, fragrances, proteins, vitamins different from the compounds described previously, polymers, preservatives, fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] The pH of the composition according to the invention, when it is aqueous, varies advantageously from 5 to 9, preferably from 6 to 8, more preferentially from 6.5 to 7.5.

[0095] The pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents that are commonly used. Examples of basifying agents that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, and mineral or organic hydroxides. Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as for example acetic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0096] Another subject of the present invention is a process for cosmetic treatment, preferably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

[0097] Another subject of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for cosmetic treatment, notably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and the hair.

[0098] Another subject of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for maintaining or even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

[0099] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific features, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention. EXAMPLES

[0100] Example 1

[0101] Compositions Al and A2, as described in Table 1 below, were prepared: the amounts are expressed as g of active material (% AM) unless otherwise mentioned.

[0102] [Table 1]

[0103] Thus, composition Al is a composition according to the invention. Composition A2 is a comparative composition.

[0104] Evaluation of stability

[0105] The compositions were poured into bottles and then stored at 4°C, at ambient temperature (25°C) and at 45°C, respectively. The appearance of the compositions was observed after 2 months of storage. The stability of each of the compositions was then evaluated by visual observation.

[0106] The results of the observations are summarized in Table 2. [Table 2]

[0107] Thus, it was found that composition Al exhibited increased stability in comparison with composition A2. The composition according to the invention therefore exhibits improved stability over time.

[0108] Example 2

[0109] Compositions Bl and B2, as described in Table 3 below, were prepared: the amounts are expressed as g of active material (% AM) unless otherwise mentioned.

[0110] [Table 3]

[0111] Thus, composition Bl is a composition according to the invention. Composition B2 is a comparative composition. Evaluation of stability

[0112] Just after their preparation, the stability of each of the compositions was evaluated by visual observation.

[0113] The results of the observations are summarized in Table 4. [Table 4]

[0114] Thus, as can be seen in Figures 1 and 2, it was found that composition Bl according to the invention exhibited increased stability just after its preparation (see Figure 1) in comparison with the comparative composition B2 (see Figure 2). The composition according to the invention therefore exhibits improved stability.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Composition comprising: a) at least one agent chosen from acids comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms and salts thereof; and b) ascorbyl glucoside.

2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the agent a) is chosen from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, preferably from the salts of propionic acid, preferably from the calcium salts, the sodium salts, the magnesium salts and the potassium salts of propionic acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from sodium propionate.

3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of agent(s) a) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of ascorbyl glucoside b) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one Ci to Ce, preferably Ci to C4, more preferentially Ci to C3, monoalcohol c); even more preferentially, the monoalcohol is ethanol.

6. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the total content of Ci to Ce monoalcohol(s) ranges from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 15% to 30% by weight, even more preferentially from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one nonionic surfactant d).

8. Composition according to Claim 7, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant is chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C8 to C40 fatty alcohols comprising preferably from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing notably from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to Claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the content of nonionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Process for cosmetic treatment, preferably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

11. Use of at least one composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 9 for cosmetic treatment, notably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and the hair.

12. Use of at least one composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 9 for maintaining or even restoring the balance of the microbial flora of the scalp.

Images