Liquid personal cleansing composition with improved skin benefits
A liquid cleansing composition with non-soap surfactants, PPAR activators, and ungelatinized starch synergistically enhances skin glow, clarity, and tone, addressing the need for improved daily skincare without extra steps.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2024/086506
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-01-09
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-16
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-17
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions fail to effectively improve skin appearance and health through daily cleansing routines without requiring additional skincare steps, and there is a need for a composition that synergistically enhances skin benefits like glow, clarity, and even tone using naturally derived ingredients.
A liquid personal cleansing composition comprising 0.1 to 40 wt% non-soap surfactant, 0.01 to 10 wt% rheology modifying agent, 0.0001 wt% to 5 wt% PPAR activator, and 0.01 to 20 wt% complex carbohydrate comprising starch, particularly ungelatinized starch, in an aqueous medium, which works synergistically to enhance skin benefits.
The composition provides improved skin benefits such as glow, skin clarity, and even skin tone, while being mild and gentle, without the need for additional skincare steps, leveraging the synergistic effects of PPAR activators and complex carbohydrates like starch.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] LIQUID PERSONAL CLEANSING COMPOSITION WITH IMPROVED SKIN BENEFITS
[0002] Field of the invention
[0003] The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions designed to improve the appearance and health of skin. The present invention relates to the field of cleansing compositions which provide even tone, glow, clarity and barrier benefits to the skin. More particularly, it relates to such compositions having complex carbohydrate comprising starch and PPAR activator.
[0004] Background of the invention
[0005] Skin is subject to deterioration through dermatological disorders, environmental abuse (wind, air conditioning, central heating.) or through the normal aging process (chronoaging) which may be accelerated by exposure of skin to sun (photoaging). In recent years the demand for cosmetic compositions and cosmetic methods for improving the appearance and condition of skin has grown enormously.
[0006] Many people are concerned with their skin quality and appearance and want to work on it. Dermatologists are also keen to ensure that cleansing products support the skin and help improve the quality of the skin. Essentially cleansing products should care for the skin and add back to the skin.
[0007] Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (abbreviated herein to PPAR) are transcription factors that control lipid metabolism. There are three isotypes PPARa, PPARp / b and PPARy, all of which have been localised in the skin according to Riviers et al, in J. Invest. Dermatol. 111 , 1116-1121 (1998). A range of specific fatty acids activates these factors, resulting in antiinflammatory action, to reduce cutaneous irritation responses, and pro-differentiation / anti- proliferation responses to normalise skin metabolism and provide additional skin-care benefits. In US-A-5981586, Pershadsingh teaches that PPAR ligands can reduce proliferation and inflammation in the skin. In PCT application WO-A-98 / 32444 Elias et al teaches that PPAR ligands can restore / prevent skin barrier dysfunction. In EP-A-888773 Malnoe et al describes the use of the PPAR activating lipid petroselinic acid in the treatment and prevention of inflammation in superficial tissues. Furthermore, in PCT application WO-A-99 / 47110, Alaluf et al teach the use of petroselinic acid or glycerides thereof to reduce skin irritation in a treatment for skin intended simultaneously to combat ageing and wrinkling, and also to provide skin lightening properties. In EP-A-709084, Laugier et al describes the use of coriander oil, rich in petroselinic acid, in a skin cosmetic composition for the moisturisation of dry skin. In US-A- 5260053, Chappell et al describe deodorant formulations containing inter alia coriander oil, to accomplish odour reduction, by reducing the population of both micrococci and diphtheroids and to mask any lingering androsterone compounds.
[0008] WO2018113636 (Unilever) discloses a combination of modified GSH block amino acid mix, comprising cystine, glutamate and glycine, with a PPAR activating fatty acid achieves a synergistic increase in skin lightening, thus counter-acting the drawback of cystine’s low solubility.
[0009] WO2001008653 (Unilever) discloses a topical composition comprising: (a) a first lipid selected from petroselinic acid and / or docosahexaenoic acid and / or derivatives thereof; (b) a second lipid which is an activator of peroxisome proliferator activated receptors sub-type alpha and / or derivatives thereof and / or mixtures thereof; and (c) a dermatologically acceptable vehicle; with the proviso that the first and second lipids are not the same lipid. The compositions are useful as cosmetic anti-ageing skin care creams and lotions.
[0010] WO12110276 (Unilever) discloses Leave-on non-solid oil-continuous skin conditioning compositions comprising 12-hydroxy stearic acid. Compositions contain 12HSA, yet have a relatively low viscosity, so are suitable for spreading on the skin, and are stable on storage and structurally reversible through temperature cycling.
[0011] WO24002647 is directed to a stable composition wash composition. The wash composition comprises a mixture of biodegradable thickeners and unsaturated zwitterionic surfactants. The wash composition has a stable viscosity and surprisingly, is free of syneresis, discoloration and malodor, even after being stored at elevated temperatures.
[0012] Hydroxystearic acid has been known for some time in the cosmetic industry. Whereas complex carbohydrates such as starch have been used in soap bar as a part of structuring system and has not been reported for any specific benefits but mostly as a filler.
[0013] Most people consider skin health and appearance as one of the key indicators of their own beauty and health. This is affected by factors like age, hormonal changes, occurrence of acne and exposure to sunlight and pollution.
[0014] Therefore, there is always a need for a composition that works to improve the appearance of skin and it is a highly desired consumer demand to include the skin benefit agents in consumables that are already a part of daily cleansing routine and does not require any extra steps towards taking care of the skin.
[0015] Therefore a cleansing composition that caters to the timeless demand of skin improvement is need of the hour that is affordable and works with the skin enhancing it with continued use.
[0016] Summary of the invention
[0017] According to a first aspect, present invention discloses a liquid personal cleansing composition comprising:
[0018] First aspect of the present invention provides a liquid cleansing composition comprising: i. 0.1 to 40 wt% non-soap surfactant; ii. 0.01 to 10 wt% rheology modifying agent ; iii. 0.0001 wt% to 5 wt.% PPAR activator; iv. 0.01 to 20 wt% complex carbohydrate comprising starch; and v. 5 to 80 wt% water.
[0019] Second aspect of the present invention provides a method of preparing a liquid personal cleansing composition according to the first aspect, the method comprising steps of: a. solubilizing non-soap surfactants and dispersing rheology modifying agents in water to form an aqueous medium, b. adding complex carbohydrate comprising starch to the aqueous medium of step (a) to obtain the liquid cleansing composition of the first aspect; wherein PPAR activator is added during step (a) or (b).
[0020] Third aspect of the present invention provides use of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in liquid cleansing composition according to the first aspect, for providing glow to the skin as compared to a liquid cleansing composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch.
[0021] Fourth aspect of the present invention provides use of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in liquid cleansing composition according to the first aspect, for providing even skin tone as compared to a liquid cleansing composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch. Fifth aspect of the present invention provides use of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in liquid cleansing composition according to the first aspect, for providing skin clarity to the as compared to a liquid cleansing composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch.
[0022] Sixth aspect of the present invention provides use of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in liquid cleansing composition according to the first aspect, for skin spot fading as compared to a liquid cleansing composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch.
[0023] These and other aspects, features and advantages will become apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art from a reading of the following detailed description and the appended claims. For the avoidance of doubt, any feature of one aspect of the present invention may be utilized in any other aspect of the invention.
[0024] The term "comprising" is meant not to be limiting to any subsequently stated elements but rather to encompass non-specified elements of major or minor functional importance. In other words the listed steps, elements or options need not be exhaustive. Whenever the words "including" or "having" are used, these terms are meant to be equivalent to "comprising" as defined above. In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive It is noted that the examples given in the description below are intended to clarify the invention and are not intended to limit the invention to those examples per se. Similarly, all percentages are weight / weight percentages unless otherwise indicated.
[0025] Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description and claims indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and / or use are to be understood as modified by the word "about".
[0026] Numerical ranges expressed in the format "from x to y" are understood to include x and y. When for a specific feature multiple preferred ranges are described in the format "from x to y", it is understood that all ranges combining the different endpoints are also contemplated.
[0027] It should be noted that in specifying any range of concentration or amount, any particular upper concentration can be associated with any particular lower concentration or amount. For a more complete understanding of the above and other features and advantages of the invention, reference should be made to the following detailed description of preferred embodiments.
[0028] Detailed description of the invention
[0029] The present invention relates to aqueous skin cleansing compositions suitable for topical application for cleansing the human body, such as the skin and hair. In particular, it relates to liquid compositions that provide improved skin benefits.
[0030] PPAR activator has been known for some time in the cosmetic industry. Whereas complex carbohydrate comprising starch has been used in soap bar as a part of structuring system and has not been reported for any specific benefits but mostly as a filler.
[0031] The present inventors surprisingly came across a composition that when worked in a given wt% range of ingredients results in beneficial properties of the skin. The level of efficacy (as measured by relevant methodologies) obtained from the combination of these ingredients on skin benefits is higher than either of them in isolation and in fact complex carbohydrate such as starch is not even known for such benefits Introduction of complex carbohydrate comprising starch in a liquid body wash formulation has shown unexpected benefits. The unexpected benefits are in the space of improvement of skin such as barrier health, hydration and tone. Complex carbohydrate such as starch also works synergistically with the other formulation components to dial up the improvements in parameters that eventually lead to higher order skin care benefits. Complex carbohydrate comprising starch in liquid surprisingly worked as a naturally derived renewable and safe alternative to silicone and other polymers in terms of skin feel, better lather and better end state sensory.
[0032] The results of the composition of the present invention showed synergistic beneficial results when the combination of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch was evaluated for skin benefits-like glow, skin clarity and even skin tone. The compositions of the present invention were also found to be mild, gentle, smooth and soft. This is also a beneficial aspect of the present invention that a cleansing composition, which is a part of every person’s daily basic hygiene routine is able to perform such functions so as to improve the skin tone, skin clarity, spot fading and skin glow. It was a highly surprising finding of the inventors of the present invention, that without any specific compositions such as serums, creams etc., the composition which is a part of every person’s daily routine is able to target and solve these skin problems. Therefore, the inventors were able to achieve a formulation which could target many skin problems at once without having to make any extra effort to do so.
[0033] Liquid personal cleansing composition
[0034] The present invention provides a liquid personal cleansing composition comprising: 0.1 to 40 wt% non-soap surfactant; 0.01 to 10 wt% rheology modifying agent; 0.0001 wt% to 5 wt.% PPAR activator; 0.01 to 20 wt% complex carbohydrate comprising starch; and 5 to 80 wt% water.
[0035] The composition of the present invention provides improved benefits to the skin such as like glow, skin clarity and even skin tone and was milder and perceived to give a soft after use feel by the consumers.
[0036] PPAR Activator
[0037] Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (abbreviated herein to PPAR) are transcription factors that control lipid metabolism. There are three isotypes PPARa, PPARp / b and PPARy, all of which have been localized in the skin.
[0038] It is most preferred that the PPAR activators are PPAR fatty acids such as cis-parinaric acid, cis-9-trans-11 conjugated linoleic acid, columbinic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, eicosapentanoic acid, hexadecatrienoic acid, linolenelaidic acid (isomer of linolenic acid), petroselinic acid, pinolenic acid, pinolenic acid, punicic acid, ricinoleic acid, ricinolaidic acid(isomer of ricinoleic acid), stearidonic acid, trans- 10-cis- 12 conjugated linoleic acid, 7-trans octadecanoic acid, vaccenic acid and the likes.
[0039] Potential source of hydrolysable PPAR precursors include triglycerides such as coriander seed oil for petroselinic acid, impatiens balsimina seed oil, parinarium laurinarium kernel fat or sabastiana brasilinensis seed oil for cis-parinaric acid, dehydrated castor seed oil for conjugated linoleic acids, and aquilegia vulgaris oil for columbinic acid.
[0040] Desirably, the PPAR acid contains 16 or 18 carbon atoms. Most preferred PPAR acids are olefinically unsaturated, and especially preferably, comprise mono, di or tri unsaturation. Many most desirable PPAR activating acids are not only unsaturated, but also are C16 or C18 acids. An alternative PPAR acid (xvii) comprises 12-hydroxystearic acid, sometimes abbreviated to 12-HSA which is effective for the present purpose at a concentration below that which is needed to form a gelled formulation. The proportion of fatty acid PPAR ligands in the invention is at least the minimum proportion which demonstrates a reduction of irritancy and / or improvement in skin condition, compared with the same composition in the absence of the PPAR ligand. As would be expected, such minimum proportion will not only vary from compound to compound but also will depend on whether the acid is employed in free form or introduced via its precursor. The minimum proportion can be determined by a patch test method described subsequently herein.
[0041] Peroxisome proliferator activated receptors are a known family of nuclear hormone receptors having three subtypes, a, p, y, of varying tissue distribution. Peroxisome proliferator activated receptors sub-type a (hereinafter referred to as PPAR a) are present in skin. The preferred PPAR activator for the composition of the present invention is Lipid Activators of Peroxisome Proliferator Activated Receptors of sub-type a.
[0042] The term “activator of peroxisome proliferator activated receptors of sub-type a” or “PPAR a activator” in the present application means a lipid that activates the nuclear receptor PPAR a.
[0043] Examples of lipid PPAR a activators which satisfy the reporter gene assay test (Kliewer et al. (1992) Nature, 358, 771-774) include C10-C18 saturated fatty acids which preferably are branched, or preferably derivatized (e.g., with hydroxy groups) if straight chain, C10-C20 monounsaturated fatty acids and C10-C22 polyunsaturated fatty acids.
[0044] The fatty acids may be straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated and may be substituted e.g. hydroxylated such as alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy derivatives. The corresponding alcohols, triglycerides and phospholipids of any of those acids are also suitable for use in the present invention. Preferable derivatives include those derived from substitution of the carboxyl group of the acid, such as esters (e.g. triglyceride esters, monoglyceride esters, diglyceride esters, phosphoesters), amides (e.g. ceramide derivatives), salts (e.g. alkali metal and alkali earth metal salts, ammonium salts). In the case of triglyceride ester derivatives, all positional isomers on the glycerol backbone are included.
[0045] Oils that are rich in fatty acid triglyceride are thus also suitable for use in the present invention. Such oils are commercially available and include coriander seed (rich in petroselinic acid), parsley seed oil (rich in petroselinic acid), evening primrose oil, (rich in gamma linolenic acid), borage seed oil (rich in gamma linolenic acid), Shea butter (rich in oleic and linoleic acid), fish oils and their concentrates (rich in DHA and EPA), cramb oil (rich in erucic acid) linseed oil (rich in alpha linolenic acid), almond oil (rich in oleic acid) and cotton seed oil (rich in linoleic acid). Preferable PPAR a activators according to the invention are 10- hydroxy stearic acid, 12- hydroxystearic acid, cis parinaric acid, trans-7-octadecenoic acid, cis 5,8,11 ,14,17 eicosapentanoic acid, cis-4,7, 10, 13, 16, 19 docosahexenoic acid, cojugated linoleic acid (c9,t11), columbinic acid, linolenelaidic acid, ricinolaidic acid, stearidonic acid, 2- hydroxystearic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, cis-11 ,14-eicosadienoic acid, conjugated linoleic (t10,c12), conjugated linoleic acid (t9,t11), conjugated linoleic acid (50:50 mix of c9, t11 and t10 c12), coriander acids, linolelaidic acid, monopetroselinic acid, petroselinic acid, ricinoleic acid, stearolic acid, thuja extract and trans vaccenic acid.
[0046] Further suitable preferred PPAR a activators include cis-11 ,14,17 eicosatrienoic acid, cis-5 eicosenoic acid, cis-8,11 ,14 eicosatrienoic acid, hexadecatrienoic acid, palmitoleic acid, petroselaidic acid, trans trans farnesol, cis 13, 16 docosadienoic acid, cis vaccenic acid, cis- 11 eicosenoic acid, cis-13,16,19 docosatrienoic acid, cis-13-octadecenoic acid, cis-15- octadecanoic acid, cis-7, 10, 13, 16 docosatetraenoic acid, elaidic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, geranic acid, geranyl geranoic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, petroselinyl alcohol, phytanic acid, pinolenic acid, trans- 13-octadecenoic acid, tridecyl salicylic acid (TDS).
[0047] A further suitable category of PPAR a activators include plant extracts, such as biochanin A (red clover phytoestrogen), chromolaena odorata extract, pomegranate saponifiable hydrolysable extract, buglossoides (stearidonic plant extract), and zanthalene (extract from Sichuan peppercorn).
[0048] Particularly preferred lipids, due to their superior anti-ageing effects when combined with petroselinic acid and or DHA (or derivatives thereof) in accordance with the present invention, are selected from the group comprising polyunsaturated fatty acids such linoleic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, linolenic acid eicosatetraynoic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), docosahexaenoic (DHA) acid (for DHA, only where the first lipid of the inventive composition is PA or derivatives thereof), monounsaturated fatty acids such as petroselinic acid (for PA only where the first lipid of the inventive composition is DHA or derivatives thereof), elaidic acid, oleic acid, erucic acid, and dioic acids such hexadecanedioc acid.
[0049] It should also be understood that the PPAR a activator which is present in compositions according to the invention is ideally present in the “active” form; that is, it is not esterified. As such, whilst natural sources of the material such as oils are referred to above, the PPAR a activator which is used in compositions according to the invention is preferably not the raw, esterified form of the activator, but rather a raw material source which is either rich in the unesterified PPAR a activator, or one in which the esterified form has been hydrolysed to release the fatty acid.
[0050] The present invention comprises PPAR activator, more preferably the PPAR activator is PPAR a activator. It is preferable that the PPAR activator is present in the composition of the present invention in the range of 0.001 wt% to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.008 to 4.5 wt% and most preferably 0.01 wt% to 4 wt% by weight of the liquid cleansing composition. ic acid
[0051] Most preferred PPAR activator of the preset invention hydroxy stearic acid or its derivatives. Preferably the cleansing composition of the present invention comprises hydroxy stearic acid or its derivatives. Hydroxystearic acids are C18 chain fatty acids with one or more OH groups present along the hydrocarbon chain. Typically 12-HySA and 10-HySA are well known hydroxystearic acid. It is often used as an emollient in skin care products and is also a common soap ingredient due to its surfactant properties.
[0052] The present invention comprises hydroxystearic acid, more preferably the hydroxystearic acid is 12-hydroxystearic acid and 10-hydroxystearic acid and most preferably 12-hydroxystearic acid. It is preferable that the hydroxystearic acid is present in the liquid cleansing composition of the present invention in the range of 0.001 wt% to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.008 to 4.5 wt% and most preferably 0.01 wt% to 4 wt% by weight of the cleansing composition.
[0053] The soap composition of the present invention comprises an complex carbohydrate. There are two types of carbohydrates: simple and complex. Simple carbohydrates are made of one or two sugar molecules. Complex carbohydrates include starch and fiber.
[0054] It is preferred that the complex carbohydrate is a polysaccharide and most preferably comprises starch. Polysaccharides, meanwhile, have a general formula of Cx(H2O)y where x and y are usually large numbers between 200 and 2500. When the repeating units in the polymer backbone are six-carbon monosaccharides, as is often the case, the general formula simplifies to (CeH Os) / !, where typically 40 < n < 3000. It is preferred that the carbohydrate comprising starch in the soap composition ranges from 1 to 45 wt%, more preferably from 3 to 40 wt% and most preferably from 5 to 35wt% by weight of the soap composition.
[0055] Starch (a polymer of glucose) is a preferably polysaccharide used as a storage polysaccharide in plants, being found in the form of both amylose and the branched amylopectin. In animals, the structurally similar glucose polymer is the more densely branched glycogen, sometimes called "animal starch".
[0056] It is preferred that the starch is at least 20 wt% by weight of complex carbohydrate, preferably at least 30 wt%, 40 wt%, 50 wt%, 60wt%, 70wt%, more preferably at least 80 wt%, furthermore preferably at least 85 wt%, most preferably at least 90 wt% by weight of complex carbohydrate. In a highly preferred aspect starch is at least 95 wt% by weight of complex carbohydrate.
[0057] It is preferred that the present composition comprises starch in the range of from 0.01 to 20 wt%, more preferably from 0.08 to 5 wt%, further more preferably from 0.1 to 4.2 wt% and most preferably from 0.15 to 4 wt% by weight of the composition. It is highly preferred that the starch is in the range of 0.15 to 3.5 wt% by weight of the composition of the present invention.
[0058] In another aspect of the present invention the complex carbohydrate is native starch or modified starch. It is most preferred that the starch is native starch.
[0059] Suitable starch materials include natural starch (from corn, wheat, rice, potato, tapioca and the like), pre-gelatinized starch, various physically and chemically modified starch and mixtures thereof. By the term natural starch is meant starch which has not been subject to chemical or physical modification - also known as raw or native starch.
[0060] A preferred starch is natural or native starch from maize (corn), cassava, wheat, potato, rice and other natural sources of it. Raw starch with different ratio of amylose and amylopectin: e.g. maize (25% amylose); waxy maize (0%); high amylose maize (70%); potato (23%); rice (16%); sago (27%); cassava (18%); wheat (30%) pea (35% amylose) and others. The raw starch can be used directly or modified during the process of making the liquid personal cleansing composition such that the starch becomes gelatinized. . It is preferred that the starch is not modified, is either partially or ungelantinized or is pregelatinized. It is most preferred to use ungelatinized or pre-gelatinized starch. It is further preferred to use starch that is native and not modified. Another suitable starch is pre-gelatinized, which is starch that has been gelatinized before it is added as an ingredient in the present liquid personal cleansing compositions. Various forms are available that will gel at different temperatures, e.g., cold water dispersible starch.
[0061] Gelatinized starch is the result of starch granules breaking down and dissolving in water when heated, a process known as starch gelatinization. The starch which has not undergone this process can be termed as ‘ungelatinized starch’.
[0062] It is preferred that the starch is in a suspended state in the liquid composition of the present invention and most preferably in concentrations and form in which it does not act as a thickening agent. It is further preferred that starch is used in its ungelatinized form. It is known in the industry that ungelatinized form of starch does not function as a thickening agent.
[0063] It is preferred that when particle size of starch ranges between 2-50pm more preferably 4- 45pm and most preferably 5-35pm while particle shapes can be smooth oval, oblate spheroid or polygonal and preferably smooth oval / spheroid. It is most preferred that the native starch of particle size in the range of 2-50pm, more preferably 4-45pm, and most preferably 5-35pm is used.
[0064] Non-soap surfactant
[0065] It is preferred that the cleansing composition comprises 0.1 to 40 wt%, more preferably in the range of 1 to 35 wt%, further, more preferably in the range of 2 to 30wt% and most preferably in the range of 5 to 25wt% of non-soap surfactant by weight of the cleansing composition. The compositions of the present invention may contain anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants or a combination thereof.
[0066] The synthetic anionic detergent active which may be used in the invention may be aliphatic sulfonates, such as a primary alkane (e.g., C8-C22) sulfonate, primary alkane (e.g., C8-C22) disulfonate, C8-C22 alkene sulfonate, C8-C22 hydroxyalkane sulfonate or alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonate (AGS); or aromatic sulfonates such as alkyl benzene sulfonate. The anionic may also be an alkyl sulfate (e.g., C12-C18 alkyl sulfate) or alkyl ether sulfate (including alkyl glyceryl ether sulfates). Anionics may also contain mild surfactants such as amino carboxylic acids or derivatives such as amino carboxylic acids containing sulfur / salt / esters / N-acyl derivatives with glycinate, glutamate, taurate, isothionate functionality with C12, C14 chains. The anionic may also be alkyl sulfosuccinates (including mono- and dialkyl, e.g., C6-C22 sulfosuccinates); alkyl and acyl taurates, alkyl and acyl sarcosinates, sulfoacetates, C8-C22 alkyl phosphates and phosphates, alkyl phosphate esters and alkoxyl alkyl phosphate esters, acyl lactates, C8-C22 monoalkyl succinates and maleates, sulphoacetates, alkyl glucosides and acyl isethionates, and the like.
[0067] Sulfosuccinates may be monoalkyl sulfosuccinates having the formula: R4O2CCH2CH(SO3M)CO2l\ / l; and amide-MEA sulfosuccinates of the formula;
[0068] R4CONHCH2CH2O2CCH2CH(SO3M)CO2l\ / l wherein R4ranges from C8-C22 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.
[0069] Sarcosinates are generally indicated by the formula: R1CON(CH3)CH2CO2M, wherein R1ranges from C8-C20 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.
[0070] Taurates are generally identified by formula:
[0071] R2CONR3CH2CH2SO3M wherein R2ranges from C8-C20 alkyl, R3ranges from C1-C4 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.
[0072] The inventive cleansing composition may contain Cs-Cis acyl isethionates. These esters are prepared by reaction between alkali metal isethionate with mixed aliphatic carboxylic acids having from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and an iodine value of less than 20. At least 75% of the mixed carboxylic acids have from 12 to 18 carbon atoms and up to 25% have from 6 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0073] The acyl isethionate may be an alkoxylated isethionate such as is described in llardi et al., U.S. Patent No. 5,393,466, titled “Fatty Acid Esters of Polyalkoxylated isethonic acid; issued February 28, 1995; hereby incorporated by reference. This compound has the general formula:
[0074] R C-O(O)-C(X)H-C(Y)H2-(OCH-CH2)m-SO3M+wherein R is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbons, m is an integer from 1 to 4, X and Y are hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbons and M+is a monovalent cation such as, for example, sodium, potassium or ammonium.
[0075] The most preferred anionic surfactants for the compositions of the present invention are selected from the group of sulfonic acids, their salts; alkyl ether sulfates; mixtures and combinations thereof. Most preferable anionic surfactants may include sodium lauryl ether sulfate, its derivatives such as ethylene oxide derivatives and the likes.
[0076] It is preferred that the cleansing composition comprises anionic surfactant in the range of 0.1 to 40 wt%, more preferably in the range of 1 to 35 wt%, further, more preferably in the range of 2 to 30wt% and most preferably in the range of 5 to 25wt% by weight of the composition.
[0077] Preferably the cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, quarternary surfactants, these include, but are not limited to: benzalkonium chloride. It is preferred that the cleansing composition comprises cationic surfactant in the range of-0.1 to 40 wt%, more preferably in the range of 1 to 35 wt%, further, more preferably in the range of 2 to 30wt% and most preferably in the range of 5 to 25wt% by weight of the composition.
[0078] Preferably the amphoteric surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, acyl I dialkylethylene diamines, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), Hydroxy sultaine derived from coconut fatty acid or lauric acids, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, , alkyl betaine, alkylamidopropyl betaine, alkyl- amidopropylhydroxysultaine alkylamines, alkyl sultaines, amine oxides, alkylimidazoles and ethoxylated amines .disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acrylamphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acrylamphodiacetate and sodium acrylamphopropionate, N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropyl alkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate. It is preferred that the cleansing composition comprises amphoteric surfactant in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt%, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 8 wt%, further, more preferably in the range of 1 to 7wt% and most preferably in the range of 2 to 6wt% by weight of the composition.
[0079] Preferably, the compositions will comprise a combination of anionic synthetic and amphoteric Surfactant (e.g., betaine), especially when anionic comprises 50% or greater of such mixture of synthetics.
[0080] One or more nonionic surfactant(s) may be used in the cleansing composition of the present invention as a co-surfactant. Nonionic surfactants are preferably used at levels as low as 5, 7.5 or 10% by wt. and at levels as high as 20, 25 or 30% by wt. The nonionic surfactants which may be used include in particular the reaction products of compounds having a hydrophobic group and a reactive hydrogen atom, for example aliphatic alcohols, acids, amides or alkylphenols with alkylene oxides, especially ethylene oxide either alone or with propylene oxide. Specific nonionic detergent compounds are alkyl (C6-C22) phenols ethylene oxide condensates, the condensation products of aliphatic (Cs-Cis) primary or secondary linear or branched alcohols with ethylene oxide, and products made by condensation of ethylene oxide with the reaction products of propylene oxide and ethylenediamine. Other so-called nonionic detergent compounds include long chain tertiary amine oxides, long chain tertiary phosphine oxides and dialkyl sulphoxide, and the like.
[0081] Preferred nonionic surfactants include alkylpolyglucosides and carboxylic acid / alcohol ethoxylates having the following structures a) HOCH2(CH2)n(CH2CH2O)xH or b) HOOC(CH2)m(CH2CH2O)yH; where m, n are independently < 18; and x, y are independently > 1 ; preferably m, n are independently 6 to 18; x, y are independently 1 to 30; c) HOOC(CH2)i-CH=CH-(CH2)k(CH2CH2O)zH; where i, k are independently 5 to 15; and z is independently 5 to 50; preferably i, k are independently 6 to 12; and z is independently 15 to 35.
[0082] The nonionic may also include a sugar amide, such as a polysaccharide amide. Specifically, the surfactant may be one of the lactobionamides described in U.S. Patent No. 5,389,279 to Au et al. titled “Compositions Comprising Nonionic Glycolipid Surfactants issued February 14, 1995; which is hereby incorporated by reference or it may be one of the sugar amides described in Patent No. 5,009,814 to Kelkenberg, titled “Use of N-Poly Hydroxyalkyl Fatty Acid Amides as Thickening Agents for Liquid Aqueous Surfactant Systems” issued April 23, 1991 ; hereby incorporated into the subject application by reference.
[0083] Preferably the non-ionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, Alkanolamides, such as Cocamide MEA DEA / MIPA, esters produced by the esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols, ethers, for example ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated poly-siloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and cocoglucoside. It is preferred that the cleansing composition comprises non-ionic surfactant in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt%, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 8 wt%, further, more preferably in the range of 1 to 7wt% and most preferably in the range of 2 to 6wt% by weight of the composition.
[0084] Suitable surfactants that may be used in the formulations disclosed herein may comprise one or more of sodium cocoyl isethionate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, sodium sulfate, sodium silicate, Cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium coco sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate. In one embodiment, the surfactant may comprise sodium cocoyl isethionate. In another embodiment, the surfactant may comprise disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate In a further embodiment, the surfactant may comprise a mixture of lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, sodium sulfate, sodium silicate, and sodium coco sulfate). In yet another embodiment, the surfactant may comprise sodium lauryl sulfate. Suitable surfactants are not limited to the ones enumerated herein and may include other surfactants that are in powder form prior to their incorporation into the formulation and are water-soluble to maximize the cleansing potential of the formulation.
[0085] Co-surfactants
[0086] For the purpose of this invention, alkoxylated nonionic surfactants, which are a class of nonionic surfactants, are defined specifically as co-surfactants. Again, for the purpose of this invention only, alkoxylated nonionic surfactants, which are co-surfactants, are differentiated from the other nonionic surfactants defined previously, in that alkoxylated nonionic surfactants, which are co-surfactants, contain at least 2 or more alkylene oxide groups. (By contrast, nonionic surfactants with EO less than 2 are considered to be surfactants as described in the paragraphs above.) Examples of alkoxylated nonionic surfactants include, but are not limited to, condensation products of linear or branched fatty chain alcohols, acids, phenols, esters, glycerides, amines and amides. The preferred co-surfactants are ethoxylated nonionic surfactants with ethylene oxide (EO) groups in the range of 2 -12 and most preferably from 2 to 6. Especially preferred nonionic surfactants are ethoxylated fatty amides with the (EO) groups in the range of 2-12, most preferably 2 to 6. Fatty alcohol alkoxylates may also be used as co-surfactants.
[0087] It is preferred that the present composition comprises co-surfactants in the range of 0 to 10wt%, more preferably 2 to 8 wt% and most preferably 3 to 7 wt%.
[0088] Electrolyte
[0089] The cleansing composition of the present invention may comprise an electrolyte. The electrolyte for the purposes of the present invention may include inorganic salts (e.g., sodium chloride, potassium chloride) as well as organic salts (e.g., sodium citrate). In addition to the above-mentioned chloride and citrate salts, other salts include phosphates, sulfates and other halogen ion salts. The counter ions of such salts can be sodium or other monovalent cations as well as di- and trivalent cations. The cleansing formulation may optionally comprise electrolytes. When present the electrolytes may range from 0.01 to 5 wt% more preferably from 0.1 to 4.5 wt% and most preferably from 0.1 to 4.5 wt% by weight of the liquid cleansing composition. These wt% values are inclusive of the case when electrolytes function as rheology modifying agents.
[0090] Chelating Agent
[0091] The cleansing composition of the present invention may comprise a chelating agent. It is preferred that the chelating agent in the cleansing composition is present in the range of 0.1 to 3 wt% by weight of the cleansing composition, more preferably in the range of 0.2 to 2.5 wt% by weight of the cleansing composition, and most preferably in the range of 0.2 to 1 .5 wt% by weight of the cleansing composition.
[0092] It is preferred that the chelating agent in the cleansing composition is present at least 0.1 wt%, more preferably at least 0.8 wt%, and most preferably at least 1 wt% by weight of the cleansing composition.
[0093] It is preferred that the chelating agent in the cleansing composition is present at most 3 wt%, more preferably at most 2.5 wt%, further preferably at most 2 wt% and most preferably at most 1 .5 wt% by weight of the cleansing composition.
[0094] The preferred chelating agents are as follows (names followed by their abbreviation in parenthesis):
[0095] Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic acid (EDTA), Disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, Diethylene Triamine Penta Acetic acid (DTPA), Ethane-1 -hydroxy-1 ,1 -diphosphonate (EHDP), Ethylene Diamine-N,N'-Disuccinate (EDDS), Nitrilo Triacetic Acid (NTA), Sodium Imino Disuccinate (IDS), Ethylene Glycol-bis-(2-aminoethyl)-N,N,N', N'-Tetra Acetic acid (EGTA), Methyl Glycine Diacetic Acid (MGDA), N-(2-hydroxyethyl) Ethylene Diamine tetra acetic acid) (HEDTA), Ethylene Diamine Tetra Methylene Phosphonic acid (EDTMP), Diethylene Tri amine-Penta-Methylene Phosphonic acid (DTPMP), Glutamic acid-N,N-Diacetic Acid (GLDA), sodium gluconate, Cyclohexane-1 ,2-Diamine-N,N,N',N'-Tetra-Acetic Acid (CDTA), 1 ,3-Propylenediamine Tetra-Acetic Acid (PDTA), Ethylene Diamine Tetraacetic Acid (EDTA), L-hydroxy Imino Disuccinic acid (L-IDS), Trisodium N-Carboxyethyl Imino Succinate (GEIS), Citric Acid, Sodium Tripolyphosphate (STP), Triethylene Tetramine Hexaacetic Acid (TTHA). Other preferred chelating agents are Trisodium Ethylene Diamine Disuccinate, Tetra- sodium-lmino disuccinate, Glutamic acid-N,N diacetic acid tetra sodium salt, 2-hydroxyethyl iminodiacetic acid, Sodium salt (disodium ethanol diglycinate), Tetrasodium 3-hydroxy-2,2 imino disuccinate, Trisodium methylglycine diacetic acid, L- Aspartate-N,N-diacetic acid tetrasodium salt. The more preferred chelating agents are salt of Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic acid (EDTA) and salt of Diethylene Trimine Penta Acetic acid (DTPA). Preferred salts of EDTA are disodium Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic acid and tetrasodium Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic acid. Preferred salt of DTPA is the pentasodium Diethylene Trimine Penta Acetic acid.
[0096] It is most preferred that the chelating agent suitable for the compositions of the present invention are selected from the group of Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic acid (EDTA), or Diethylene Triamine Penta Acetic acid (DTPA), their derivatives and combinations, mixtures thereof. The EDTA derivative is selected from tetrasodium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, disodium EDTA, and combinations thereof. The DTPA derivative is selected from tetrasodium DTPA, trisodium DTPA, disodium DTPA, and combinations thereof.
[0097] Preservative
[0098] The composition of the cleansing composition of the present invention may comprise a preservative. It is preferred that the preservative in the cleansing composition is present in the range of 0.1 to 3wt% by weight of the cleansing composition, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 2wt-by weight of the cleansing composition, and most preferably in the range of 0.1 to 1 w% by weight of the cleansing composition.
[0099] Very useful examples of the preservatives suitable for the compositions of the present inventions, but are not limited to, chlorite components, sorbic acid components and mixtures thereof.
[0100] Other preferred preservatives include but not limited to commonly used in cosmetics, such as dibromdicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-lod-2- propinylbutylcarbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitro-propane-1 , 3-diol, imidazolidinyl hamstoff, 5-chloro- 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol.
[0101] It is particularly preferred according to the invention that the preservative is selected from Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, 3-iodo-2-propynl butyl carbamate (IPBC), DMDM hydantoin and benzyl alcohol and) or mixtures or combinations thereof.
[0102] Water The cleansing composition of the present invention comprises water in the range of 5 to 80 wt% water, more preferably 5 to 78 wt% and and most preferably from 10 to 75 wt% by weight of the composition. The composition of the present invention is primarily an aqueous composition.
[0103] Rheology modifying agent
[0104] The composition of the present invention comprises a rheology modifying agent, which means an agent that affects the rheology of the liquid cleansing compositions. These agents may be thickening agents such as polymers and may include electrolyte salts which may function to modify the rheology of the liquid cleansing composition. The composition of the present invention may comprise rheology modifying agent in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt%, more preferably 0.1 to 9 wt% and most preferably in the range of 0.5 to 8.5 wt% by weight of the cleansing composition of the present invention.
[0105] Thickening agents may be water soluble / dispersible polymers. These polymers can be cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic types with molecular weights higher than 100,000 Dalton. They are known to increase the viscosity and stability of liquid cleanser compositions, to enhance in-use and after-use skin sensory feels, and to enhance lather creaminess and lather stability. Amount of the polymers, when present, may range from 0.01 to 10% by weight of the composition. It is preferred that the thickening polymers are present in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt%, more preferably 0.1 to 9 wt% and most preferably in the range of 0.5 to 8.5 wt% by weight of the cleansing composition of the present invention.
[0106] Examples of water soluble / or dispersible polymers and rheology modifiers include the carbohydrate gums such as cellulose gum, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gel, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, guar gum, gum karaya, gum tragacanth, gum arabic, gum acacia, gum agar, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof; alkali swellable acrylic polymers such as crosslinked acrylate copolymers, polyacrylate crosspolymers; polyacrylate crosspolymers (Sepimax zen), lightly cross-linked acrylate copolymer (Carbopol Aqa SF01), hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (and) cellulose gum (and) xanthan gum (TEXTURE PURE SA ), Amaze XT(De hydroxanthan gum); emulsion polymers such as Aculyn® 28, cationic polymer such as modified polysaccharides including cationic guar such as Jaguar® C13S, Jaguar® C17, or Jaguar® C16; cationic modified cellulose such as UCARE® Polymer JR 30 or JR 40; N- Hance® 3000, N-Hance® 3196, N-Hance® GPX 215 or N-Hance® GPX 196 from Hercules; synthetic cationic polymer such as Merquat® 100, Merquat® 280, Merquat® 281 and Merquat® 550 sold by Nalco;; cationic galactomannans such as Galactasol® 800 series by Henkel, Inc.; Quadrosoft® LM-200; and Polyquaternium-24®. Also suitable are high molecular weight polyethylene glycols such as Polyox® WSR-205 (PEG 14M), Polyox® WSR-N-60K (PEG 45), and Polyox® WSR-301 (PEG 90M). Other cationic cellulose derivatives are cationic cationic guar gum derivatives.
[0107] The electrolyte as mentioned supra may act as rheology modifying agents.
[0108] For the purpose of this invention, the rheology modifying agent is different than starch and more preferably different than unglatinized starch.
[0109] £H
[0110] It is preferred that the pH of the compositions of the present invention ranges from 4.5 to 11. When the liquid cleansing compositions of the present invention comprise soap, the pH may range between 9 to 11. When the liquid cleansing compositions of the present invention do not comprise soap or have soap less than 1 wt%, the pH may range between 4 to 7.
[0111] The pH of a solution is expressed as the negative logarithm of the hydrogen ion activity which is related to a millivolt potential of the pH indicating electrode. This electrode is calibrated with standard buffer mixtures whose pH values lie on either side (acidic & basic) of that of the solution which is being measured. About 1 gm of the cleansing composition is weighed in a beaker & made up to 100 grams by adding distilled water. 25°C and pH is measured.
[0112] Soap
[0113] The liquid cleansing composition of the present invention may comprise about 0.1 to 40 wt% of soap, more preferably 2 to 30 wt% and most preferably about 2.5 to 25wt% of soap by weight of the cleansing composition. It is preferable that the cleansing composition has 0.1 to 40 wt% of total fatty matter (TFM).
[0114] The term soap means salts of fatty acids in which the accompanying cation may be an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium ion, preferably an alkali metal. Preferably, the cation is sodium or potassium. The soap may be saturated or unsaturated and it depends on the nature of the corresponding fatty acid and / or oil used for saponification.
[0115] Emollients The term “emollient” is defined as a substance which softens or improves the elasticity, appearance, and youthfulness of the skin (stratum corneum) by either increasing its water content, adding, or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients; or both, and keeps it soft by retarding the decrease of its water content.
[0116] Moisturizers that also are Humectants such as polyhydric alcohols, e.g. glycerin and propylene glycol, and the like; and polyols such as the polyethylene glycols such as Polyox WSR N-60K (PEG-45M) and the like are used in a preferred embodiment of the invention. Humectants are preferably used at a minimum of 0.5, 2.5 or 5 % by wt. and a maximum of 15, 20 or 25% by wt.
[0117] Hydrophobic emollients are used in a preferred embodiment of the invention. Preferred are hydrophobic emollient(s) with weight average particle sizes below either 1000 or 500 microns in diameter and are defined herein as “finely dispersed oils”. These emollients are preferably used at a minimum of 0.5, 2.5 or 5 % by wt. and a maximum of 15, 20 or 25% by wt.
[0118] Suitable hydrophobic emollients include but are not limited to the following:
[0119] (a) silicone oils and modifications thereof such as linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes; amino, alkyl, alkylaryl, and aryl silicone oils;
[0120] (b) fats and oils including natural fats and oils (triglycerides) such as jojoba, soybean, sunflower, rice bran, avocado, almond, olive, sesame, persic, castor, coconut, mink oils; cacao fat; beef tallow, lard; hardened oils obtained by hydrogenating the aforementioned oils; and synthetic mono, di and triglycerides such as myristic acid glyceride and 2- ethylhexanoic acid glyceride;
[0121] (c) waxes such as carnauba, spermaceti, beeswax, lanolin, and derivatives thereof;
[0122] (d) hydrophobic plant extracts;
[0123] (e) hydrocarbons such as petrolatum, polybutene, liquid paraffins, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, squalene, pristan and mineral oil;
[0124] (f) higher alcohols such as lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl, cholesterol and 2- hexydecanol alcohol;
[0125] (g) esters such as cetyl octanoate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate, alkyl lactate, alkyl citrate and alkyl tartrate; (h) essential oils and extracts thereof such as mentha, jasmine, camphor, white cedar, bitter orange peel, ryu, turpentine, cinnamon, bergamot, citrus unshiu, calamus, pine, lavender, bay, clove, hiba, eucalyptus, lemon, starflower, thyme, peppermint, rose, sage, sesame, ginger, basil, juniper, lemon grass, rosemary, rosewood, avocado, grape, grapeseed, myrrh, cucumber, watercress, calendula, elder flower, geranium, linden blossom, amaranth, seaweed, ginko, ginseng, carrot, guarana, tea tree, jojoba, comfrey, oatmeal, cocoa, neroli, vanilla, green tea, penny royal, aloe vera, menthol, cineole, eugenol, citral, Citronelle, borneol, linalool, geraniol, evening primrose, camphor, thymol, spirantol, penene, limonene and terpenoid oils;
[0126] (i) mixtures of any of the foregoing components, and the like.
[0127] Form and Format
[0128] The liquid personal cleansing compositions of the present inventions are preferably end use personal cleansing compositions such as body wash, hand wash , face wash, reconstituted liquids, reconstituted solids, concentrates, self foamers, scrubs, concentrate serum body wash, concentrated bodymask . However, the compositions may also be in the form of liquid concentrate compositions capable of being reconstituted into a diluted end-use personal composition. The compositions of the present invention may also be in a self-foaming format of personal cleansing compositions which use foamers. Similarly the rheology modifying agents may be accordingly adjusted according to the chosen form and format of the composition. The wt% of water can also be chosen according to the form and format of the cleansing composition. Such as if the cleansing composition is a liquid cleansing concentrate, less of water will be present in the composition as compared to a higher wt% of water when an end use liquid personal cleansing composition is made.
[0129] Benefit Agents
[0130] In addition to the ingredients described earlier, preferred embodiments of the cleansing compositions may also include other optional and preferred ingredients for their known benefits. The type and content will largely depend on the nature and type of cleansing composition as well as general principles of formulation science.
[0131] Other optional compositions include one or more skin benefit agents. The term "skin benefit agent" is defined as a substance which softens or improves the elasticity, appearance, and youthfulness of the skin (stratum corneum) by either increasing its water content, adding, or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients; or both, and keeps it soft by retarding the decrease of its water content. Included among the suitable skin benefit agents are emollients, including, for example, hydrophobic emollients, hydrophilic emollients, or blends thereof. Water-soluble skin benefit agents may optionally be formulated into the liquid compositions of the invention. A variety of water-soluble skin benefit agents can be used and the level can be from 0 to 50% but preferably from 1 to 30% by weight of the composition. These materials include, but are not limited to, polyhydroxy alcohols. Preferred water soluble skin benefit agents are glycerin, sorbitol polyethylene glycol sucrose, trehalose and maltodextrins.
[0132] Water-insoluble skin benefit agents may also be formulated into the compositions as conditioners and moisturizers. Examples include silicone oils; hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffins, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, and mineral oil; and vegetable triglycerides such as sunflower seed and cottonseed oils.
[0133] Preservatives can also be added into the compositions to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Suitable traditional preservatives for compositions of this invention are alkyl esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid. Other preservatives which have more recently come into use include hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. Particularly preferred preservatives are phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate and benzyl alcohol. The preservatives should be selected having regard for the use of the composition and possible incompatibility between the preservatives and other ingredients. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight of the composition.
[0134] A variety of other optional materials may be formulated into the compositions. These may include: antimicrobials; scrub and exfoliating particles such as polyethylene and silica or alumina; cooling agents such as menthol; skin calming agents such as aloe vera; and colorants.
[0135] Shower gel or Body wash may contain particles that are greater than 50 pm in average diameter that help remove dry skin. Not being bound by theory, the degree of exfoliation depends on the size and morphology of the particles. Large and rough particles are usually very harsh and irritating. Very small particles may not serve as effective exfoliants. Such exfoliants used in the art include natural minerals such as silica, talc, calcite, pumice, tricalcium phosphate; seeds such as rice, apricot seeds, etc; crushed shells such as almond and walnut shells; oatmeal; polymers such as polyethylene and polypropylene beads, flower petals and leaves; microcrystalline wax beads; jojoba ester beads, and the like. These exfoliants come in a variety of particle sizes and morphology ranging from micron sized to a few mm. They also have a range of hardness. Some examples are talc, calcite, pumice, walnut shells, dolomite and polyethylene.
[0136] Advantageously, active agents other than skin conditioning agents defined above may be added to the composition. These active ingredients may be advantageously selected from bactericides, vitamins, anti-acne actives; anti-wrinkle, anti-skin atrophy and skin repair actives; skin barrier repair actives; non-steroidal cosmetic soothing actives; artificial tanning agents and accelerators; skin lightening actives; sunscreen actives; sebum stimulators; sebum inhibitors; anti-oxidants; protease inhibitors; skin tightening agents; anti-itch ingredients; hair growth inhibitors; 5-alpha reductase inhibitors; desquamating enzyme enhancers; anti-glycation agents; or mixtures thereof; and the like.
[0137] These active agents may be selected from water-soluble active agents, oil soluble active agents, pharmaceutically acceptable salts and mixtures thereof. The term "active agent" as used herein, means personal care actives which can be used to deliver a benefit to the skin and / or hair and which generally are not used to confer a skin conditioning benefit, such are delivered by emollients as defined above. The term "safe and effective amount" as used herein, means an amount of active agent high enough to modify the condition to be treated or to deliver the desired skin care benefit, but low enough to avoid serious side effects. The term "benefit," as used herein, means the therapeutic, prophylactic, and / or chronic benefits associated with treating a particular condition with one or more of the active agents described herein. What is a safe and effective amount of the active agent(s) will vary with the specific active agent, the ability of the active to penetrate through the skin, the age, health condition, and skin condition of the user, and other like factors.
[0138] A wide variety of active agent ingredients are useful for the compositions of the present inventions and include those selected from anti-acne actives, anti-wrinkle and anti-skin atrophy actives, skin barrier repair aids, cosmetic soothing aids, topical anesthetics, artificial tanning agents and accelerators, skin lightening actives, antimicrobial and antifungal actives, sunscreen actives, sebum stimulators, sebum inhibitors, anti-glycation actives and mixtures thereof and the like.
[0139] Anti-acne actives can be effective in treating acne vulgaris, a chronic disorder of the pilosebaceous follicles. Non limiting examples of useful anti-acne actives include the keratolytics such as salicylic acid (o-hydroxybenzoic acid), derivatives of salicylic acid such as 5-octanoyl salicylic acid and 4 methoxysalicylic acid, and resorcinol; retinoids such as retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, particularly their N-acetyl derivatives, mixtures thereof and the like.
[0140] Skin barrier repair actives are those skin care actives which can help repair and replenish the natural moisture barrier function of the epidermis. Non limiting examples of skin barrier repair actives include lipids such as cholesterol, ceramides, sucrose esters and pseudo-ceramides as described in European Patent Specification No. 556,957; ascorbic acid; biotin; biotin esters; phospholipids, mixtures thereof, and the like.
[0141] Artificial tanning actives can help in simulating a natural sun tan by increasing melanin in the skin or by producing the appearance of increased melanin in the skin. Non limiting examples of artificial tanning agents and accelerators include dihydroxyacetaone; tyrosine; tyrosine esters such as ethyl tyrosinate and glucose tyrosinate; mixtures thereof, and the like.
[0142] Skin lightening actives can actually decrease the amount of melanin in the skin or provide such an effect by other mechanisms. Non limiting examples of skin lightening actives useful herein include aloe extract, alpha-glyceryl-L-ascorbic acid, aminotyrosine, ammonium lactate, glycolic acid, hydroquinone, 4 hydroxyanisole, Octadecenedioic acid; Ca pantathene sulfonate; CoQ10; thiamidol; nicotinamide, glutathione; vitamins E and C and their oil and water soluble derivatives, mixtures thereof, and the like.
[0143] Also useful are sunscreen actives. Non limiting examples of sunscreens which are useful in the compositions of the present invention are those selected from the group consisting of octyl methoxyl cinnamate (Parsol MCX) and butyl methoxy benzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), 2- ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N,N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p- aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5sulfonic acid, oxybenzone, mixtures thereof, and the like.
[0144] Also useful are protease inhibitors. Protease inhibitors can be divided into two general classes: the proteinases and the peptidases. Proteinases act on specific interior peptide bonds of proteins and peptidases act on peptide bonds adjacent to a free amino or carboxyl group on the end of a protein and thus cleave the protein from the outside. The protease inhibitors suitable for use in the inventive personal liquid personal cleansing compositions include, but are not limited to, proteinases such as serine proteases, metalloproteases, cysteine proteases, and aspartyl protease, and peptidases, such as carboxypepidases, dipeptidases and aminopepidases, mixtures thereof and the like. Active ingredients in the inventive cleansing compositions may also include anti-itch ingredients. Suitable examples of anti-itch ingredients which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include hydrocortisone, methdilizine and trimeprazine, mixtures thereof, and the like.
[0145] Non limiting examples of hair growth inhibitors which are useful in the inventive liquid personal cleansing composition include 17 beta estradiol, anti-angiogenic steroids, curcuma extract, cycloxygenase inhibitors, evening primrose oil, linoleic acid and the like. Suitable 5-alpha reductase inhibitors such as ethynylestradiol and, genistine mixtures thereof, and the like.
[0146] Advantageously cationic skin feel agent(s) or polymer(s) are used from about 0.01 , 0.1 or 0.2% by wt. to about 1 , 1 .5 or 2.0% by wt.
[0147] Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) in their Polymer JR® and LR® series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium® 10. Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium® 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200®, and quaternary ammonium compounds such as alkyldimethylammonium halogenides.
[0148] A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc in their JAGUAR® trademark series). Examples are JAGUAR® C13S, which has a low degree of substitution of the cationic groups and high viscosity, JAGUAR® C15, having a moderate degree of substitution and a low viscosity, JAGUAR® C17 (high degree of substitution, high viscosity), JAGUAR® C16, which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups, and JAGUAR® 162 which is a high transparency, medium viscosity guar having a low degree of substitution.
[0149] Particularly preferred cationic polymers are JAGUAR® C13S, JAGUAR® C15, JAGUAR® C17 and JAGUAR® C16 and JAGUAR® C162, especially JAGUAR® C13S. Other cationic skin feel agents known in the art may be used provided that they are compatible with the inventive formulation. Other preferred cationic compounds that are useful in the present invention include amido quaternary ammonium compounds such as quaternary ammonium propionate and lactate salts, and quaternary ammonium hydrolyzates of silk or wheat protein, and the like. Many of these compounds can be obtained as the Mackine® Amido Functional Amines, Mackalene® Amido functional Tertiary Amine Salts, and Mackpro® cationic protein hydrolysates from the McIntyre Group Ltd. (University Park, III.).
[0150] In embodiments having a hydrolyzed protein conditioning agent, the average molecular weight of the hydrolyzed protein is preferably about 2500. Preferably 90% of the hydrolyzed protein is between a molecular weight of about 1500 to about 3500. In a preferred embodiment, MACKPRO® WWP (i.e. wheat germ amido dimethylamine hydrolyzed wheat protein) is added at a concentration of 0.1% (as is) in the bar.
[0151] Method
[0152] The cleansing composition of the present invention is prepared using the process comprising steps of: a. solubilizing non-soap surfactants and dispersing rheology modifying agents in water to form an aqueous medium, b. adding complex carbohydrate comprising starch to the aqueous medium of step (a) to obtain the liquid cleansing composition of the first aspect; wherein PPAR activator is added during step (a) or (b).
[0153] It is preferable that the complex carbohydrate comprising starch is pre-dispersed in a medium such as polyol for example glycerine or the likes.
[0154] It is preferred that the PPAR activator is selected from the group comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid, cis parinaric acid, trans-7-octadecenoic acid, cis 5,8,11 ,14,17 eicosapentanoic acid, cis- 4,7,10,13,16,19 docosahexenoic acid, cojugated linoleic acid (c9,t11), columbinic acid, linolenelaidic acid, ricinolaidic acid, stearidonic acid, 2-hydroxystearic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, cis-11 ,14-eicosadienoic acid, conjugated linoleic (t10,c12), conjugated linoleic acid (t9,t11), conjugated linoleic acid (50:50 mix of c9, t11 and t10 c12), coriander acids, linolelaidic acid, monopetroselinic acid, petroselinic acid, ricinoleic acid, stearolic acid, thuja extract and trans vaccenic acid or combinations thereof. The most preferred PPAR activator is hydroxystearic acid or its derivative and most preferably 10- hydroxystearic acid or 12- hydroxystearic acid or combinations thereof. It is preferred that in the method of the present invention that 0.1 to 3 wt% chelating agent is added.
[0155] It is preferred that in the method of the present invention that 0.1 to 3 wt% preservative agent is added.
[0156] It is preferred that in the method of the present invention that the composition comprises 0.01 to 10 wt% of rheology modifying agent.
[0157] It is preferred that in the method of the present invention the rheology modifying agent is selected from the group of electrolytes, cellulose-based polymers, gum-based polymers, acrylate polymers and mixtures and combinations thereof .
[0158] It is preferred that in the method of the present invention that the non-soap surfactant is selected from the group of anionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, zwitterionic surfactant or non-ionic surfactant.
[0159] It is preferred that in the method of the present invention that the composition may further comprise addition of soap or in situ generation of soap. It is most preferred that soap is added in situ. Free fatty acids are melted as the first step followed by addition of synthetic surfactants and soap formation by alkali adjustment when soap is added it is in the range of 0.1 to 40 wt%.
[0160] Use
[0161] The present invention provides use of PPAR activator preferably hydroxystearic acid and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in liquid cleansing composition according to the first aspect, for providing even skin tone as compared to a liquid cleansing composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch as measured by various methodologies compared.
[0162] The present invention provides use of PPAR activator preferably hydroxystearic acid and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in liquid cleansing composition according to the first aspect, for providing skin clarity and spot fading to the as compared to a liquid cleansing composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch as measured by various methodologies compared.
[0163] The present invention provides use of PPAR activator preferably hydroxystearic acid and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in liquid cleansing composition according to the first aspect, for other skin health, aging, barrier and appearance benefits as measured by various methodologies compared to a liquid cleansing composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch.
[0164] The invention will now be illustrated by means of the following non-limiting examples.
[0165] Examples
[0166] While this invention has been described with respect to particular embodiments thereof, it is apparent that numerous other forms and modifications of the invention will be obvious to those skilled in the art. The appended claims and this invention generally should be construed to cover all such obvious forms and modifications which are within the true spirit and scope of the present invention.
[0167] Example 1 : Preparation of formulations
[0168] Chelating agent was solubilized in water medium followed by addition of solid non-soap surfactants like sodium Lauryl Sulphate and Cocamide MEA at 70-80°C until solubilized under stirring, followed further by addition of other liquid non-soap surfactants. Rheology modifying acrylate polymer was dispersed in water followed by polymer neutralization. Preservative, colourants, fragrance and other skin benefit aids were added including HySA (Hydroxy stearic acid). Starch was then added pre dispersed in glycerine slurry under rapid stirring and final adjustment of viscosity with electrolytes. Starch was sourced from AGRANA STARKE- STARKINA NATURAL which is 100 % native potato starch, of EU-origin, typically soured from austria and the czech republic. Maize was also sourced from AGRANA STARKE- MAISITA 9040- 100 % native maize starch, of EU-origin, typically sourced from Austria, Slovakia and Hungary. Rice was sourced from AGRANA STARKE- REISITA NATURAL- 100 % native rice starch.
[0169] Examples E1 to E3 were prepared according to the methodology as given above. E1 was prepared without a rheology modifying agent and having 12-Hydroxystearic acid (12HSA) but without starch. E2 had acrylate polymer as rheology modifying agent, starch but no 12-HSA, while E3 had acrylate polymer as rheology modifying agent, 12-HSA and starch. The compositions E1 to E3 were used for clinical study for glow and radiance, skin texture, skin tone unevenness, skin clarity, skin hydration, spot lightening, anti-pigmentation and skin redness.
[0170] Table 1
[0171] Example 2: Clinical study method and protocol:
[0172] GLOW & RADIANCE - COMPOSITE GLOW SCALE
[0173] Glow & Radiance is assessed based on the method as provided in (Kumari R et al. Int J Res Dermatol. 2022 Nov;8(6):593-600). A double blind randomised clinical study was performed under dermatologist supervision and evaluated by a dermatologist. This included panellists from Fitzpatrick scale 3 to 6 and with dark spot as per dermatologist discretion. Panellists were provided a wash off period to acclimatise them, and the study duration extended from a minimum of 1 week to a maximum of 6 weeks. Dermatologists used in this study were trained and validated for the evaluation skills. The four visual skin attributes which mainly impact the
[0174] G&R assessment were identified to be texture, evenness of skin tone, clarity and hydration.
[0175] Scale and calculations- The “multiparametric composite G&R scale” is based on the visual perception of, glow, clarity, evenness of skin tone and spot reduction. Each parameter is independently assessed between (1-5) with a provision of intermediate scoring system. The scale is inclusive of all skin colors and ethnicities. The sensitivity of the scale has been validated with various skin products on skin of colour for visual representation of the scale on skin of colour population). Skin Texture - The subjects reported for assessment were instructed to wash their face and forearm with water and acclimatized at the testing centre. Post acclimatization the subjects are assessed by trained dermatologists using Skin Texture Scale, which is based on the visible assessment of skin texture variation across the test area. The skin texture is scaled between 1- 5 where lower value indicates skin roughness and higher value indicates skin smoothness. Skin texture shows a transient effect in presence of a topical application, but it may or may not be a stable change and statistically significant increase in the skin texture score observed post product use is an indication of significant improvement in skin texture.
[0176] Skin Tone Unevenness- The subjects reported for assessment were instructed to wash their face and forearm with water and acclimatized at the testing centre. Post acclimatization the subjects are assessed by trained dermatologists using Skin Tone Evenness Scale, which is based on the assessment of skin color variation across the test area. The skin tone evenness is scaled between 1 - 5 where lower value indicates uneven skin tone and higher value indicates even skin tone. Skin tone evenness is a result of phenotypic changes that is mostly marginal and difficult to perceive and statistically significant increase in the skin tone evenness score observed post product use is an indication of significant improvement in skin tone evenness.
[0177] Skin Clarity - The subjects reported for assessment were instructed to wash their face and forearm with water and acclimatized at the testing center. Post acclimatization the subjects are assessed by trained dermatologists using Skin Clarity Scale, which is based on the reflectance / luminance assessment. The skin clarity is scaled between 1- 5 where lower value indicates unclear skin and higher value indicates clear skin. Skin clarity is a result of phenotypic changes that is mostly marginal and difficult to perceive, statistically significant increase in the skin clarity score observed post product use is an indication of improvement in skin clarity.
[0178] Skin Hydration - The subjects reported for assessment were instructed to wash their face and forearm with water and acclimatized at the testing centre. Post acclimatization the subjects are assessed by trained dermatologists using a Skin Hydration Scale, which is based on the visual moisturization assessment. The skin hydration is scaled between 1- 5 where lower value indicates dry skin and higher value indicates moisturized skin. Skin hydration levels are very easily differentiated as the skin shows significant results with any kind of topical treatment including water having a transient effect on the level of skin hydration. Statistically significant increase in the skin hydration score observed post product use is an indication of improvement in skin hydration. Spot Lightening, Anti-Pigmentation and Skin Redness - The subjects reported for assessment were instructed to wash their face and forearm with water and acclimatized at the testing centre. Post acclimatization the subjects are assessed by Antera 3D image analyser for L* improvement on selected spots on face and reduction in melanin content, Haemoglobin intensity on forearm. The improvement in spot L* value indicates spot lightening or fading of spot being assessed and reduction in melanin content, haemoglobin intensity indicates reduction in skin pigmentation and redness. Statistically significant increase in the Spot L* and reduction in melanin content, haemoglobin intensity observed post product use is an indication of spot fading, anti-pigmentation and reduction in skin redness.
[0179] Table 2
[0180] Compositions E1 and E3 were compared by dermatological assessment and image analysis to give a mean CFB - change from baseline value which are analyzed using appropriate statistical tools for glow and radiance, skin texture, skin clarity and skin hydration. It was observed that increase in respective parameter values are statistically significant for E3 as compared with E1 at a confidence limit of 95%.
[0181] Table 3
[0182] Compositions E2 and E3 were compared by dermatological assessment and image analysis to give a mean CFB - change from baseline value which are analyzed using appropriate statistical tools for glow and radiance, skin texture, skin clarity and skin hydration. It was observed that increase in respective parameter values are statistically significant for E3 as compared with E1 at a confidence limit of 95%.
Claims
Claims:
1. A liquid personal cleansing composition comprising: i. 0.1 to 40 wt% non-soap surfactant; ii. 0.01 to 10 wt% rheology modifying agent; iii. 0.0001 wt% to 5 wt.% PPAR activator; iv. 0.01 to 4 wt% complex carbohydrate comprising starch; and v. 5 to 80 wt% water; wherein the PPAR activator is 10- hydroxystearic acid or 12- hydroxystearic acid or combination thereof; and wherein the starch is in ungelatinized form in the composition.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the liquid personal cleansing composition comprises soap in the range from 0.1 to 40 wt%.
3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, the liquid personal cleansing composition comprises polyol in the range from 0.1 to 10 wt%.
4. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the complex carbohydrate comprises at least 50 wt% starch by weight of the complex carbohydrate.
5. A composition according to according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 4, wherein the starch is native or modified starch.
6. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 5, wherein the composition comprises 0.1 to 3 wt% chelating agent.
7. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 6, wherein the rheology modifying agent is selected from thickening polymer and a electrolyte salt or combination of both.
8. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 7, wherein the rheology modifying agent different than ungelatinized starch.
9. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 8, wherein the non-soap surfactant is selected from the group of anionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, zwitterionic surfactant, non-ionic surfactant and mixtures thereof.
10. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 9, wherein the composition comprises a preservative in the range of 0.1 to 5 wt% by weight of the composition.
11. A method of manufacturing a liquid personal cleansing composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 10, the method comprising steps of: a. solubilizing non-soap surfactants and dispersing rheology modifying agents in water to form an aqueous medium, b. adding complex carbohydrate comprising starch to the aqueous medium of step (a) to obtain the resulting liquid cleansing composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 10; wherein PPAR activator is added during step (a) or (b).
12. Use of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in liquid cleansing composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 10, for providing glow to the skin as compared to a liquid cleansing composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch; wherein the PPAR activator is 10- hydroxystearic acid or 12- hydroxy stearic acid or combination thereof; and wherein the starch is in ungelatinized form in the composition.
13. Use of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in liquid cleansing composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 10, for providing even skin tone as compared to a liquid cleansing composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch; wherein the PPAR activator is 10- hydroxystearic acid or 12- hydroxy stearic acid or combination thereof; and wherein the starch is in ungelatinized form in the composition.
14. Use of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in liquid cleansing composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 10, for providing skin clarity to the as compared to a liquid cleansing composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch; wherein the PPARactivator is 10- hydroxystearic acid or 12- hydroxy stearic acid or combination thereof; and wherein the starch is in ungelatinized form in the composition.
15. Use of PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch in liquid cleansing composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 10, for skin spot fading as compared to a liquid cleansing composition without PPAR activator and a complex carbohydrate comprising starch; wherein the PPAR activator is 10- hydroxystearic acid or 12- hydroxy stearic acid or combination thereof; and wherein the starch is in ungelatinized form in the composition.
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