W / o emulsion comprising a volatile alkane, a non volatile mixture of c15 c19 alkanes, an acyclic volatile silicone oil, a hydrophobic silica aerogel and a silicone emulsifier
A water-in-oil emulsion with specific components achieves effective skin coverage and sensory properties without cyclic volatile silicone oils or microplastic fillers, addressing stability and environmental concerns in cosmetic compositions.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2025/050160
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-01-11
- Filing Date
- 2025-01-06
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-17
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions for skin care and makeup, particularly foundations, often rely on cyclic volatile silicone oils and microplastic fillers, which are non-biodegradable and difficult to stabilize, while seeking to provide good coverage, sensory properties, and stability.
A water-in-oil emulsion composition comprising volatile alkanes, non-volatile C15-C19 alkanes, volatile acyclic silicone oils, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and silicone emulsifying surfactants with HLB < 8.0, without cyclic volatile silicone oil or microplastic fillers, to achieve uniform coverage, non-greasy feel, and stability.
The composition provides effective skin coverage, a non-greasy, powdery dry, and soft sensory effect, while being stable and environmentally friendly, without using non-biodegradable ingredients.
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Abstract
Description
DescriptionW / O EMULSION COMPRISING A VOLATILE ALKANE, A NON VOLATILE MIXTURE OF C15 C19 ALKANES, AN ACYCLIC VOLATILE SILICONE OIL, A HYDROPHOBIC SILICA AEROGEL AND A SILICONE EMULSIFIERTechnical field
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of caring for and / or making up keratin materials and is targeted at providing compositions more particularly dedicated to caring for and / or making up the skin.
[0002] The skin is not a smooth surface of uniform color, and has reliefs and microreliefs such as pores, wrinkles, fine lines, spots, scars and dry areas, which form a somewhat bumpy surface. Quite often, this surface, with its irregularities, forms a pleasant-looking whole, but the irregularities are such that the surface is occasionally considered unattractive.
[0003] Cosmetic makeup and / or care compositions are commonly employed for hiding, smoothing out and / or unifying imperfections of the relief of the skin, such as pores, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or scars. In this regard, numerous solid or fluid, anhydrous or non-anhydrous, formulations have been developed to date.
[0004] The application of a makeup composition such as a foundation is the most effective approach for enhancing the beauty of irregular skin, by making it possible to hide marks and dyschromias, to reduce the visibility of relief imperfections such as pores and wrinkles, and to conceal spots and acne marks; in this regard, coverage is one of the main properties sought.
[0005] In the cosmetics field, water-in-oil emulsions, also called inverse emulsions, are particularly liked by consumers in the field of foundations, sun protection products or moisturizing creams, with regard to their cosmetic properties, in particular with regard to their comfort after application, which is reflected in particular by a non-greasy, powdery dry and simultaneously soft effect of the deposit after drying. These same inverse emulsions also make it possible to contain a large amount of fillers and / or pigments and to obtain good coverage and uniformity during application, compared to direct emulsions. However, such compositions have the disadvantage of being generally difficult to stabilize.
[0006] Compositions for making up the skin, notably liquid foundations, generally contain volatile solvents such as cyclic volatile silicone oils, also referred to as cyclomethicones such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4), decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6). They provide a non-greasy, powdery dry and simultaneously soft and silky feel and promote the spreading of the product over the skin. However, cyclic volatile silicone oils are synthetic polymers of polyorganosiloxane type which are not biodegradable.
[0007] Compositions for caring for and / or making up keratin materials such as the skin often additionally contain fillers.
[0008] The term "filler" should be understood as meaning colorless or white solid particles of any shape which are provided in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.
[0009] They are used as opacifiers, mattifiers, to give a very specific soft and silky feel, to give body or firmness to the composition and / or softness and uniformity to the makeup.
[0010] Many care and / or makeup products comprise organic fillers usually constituted of synthetic polymer particles that are referred to as microplastics.
[0011] A "microplastic filler" is understood according to the definition of the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) to mean a synthetic microparticle of solid form composed of polymer, which has a size of less than 5 mm, is insoluble and is not biodegradable. Microplastic fillers are generally dry and soft to the touch.
[0012] There remains the need to find new formulations for caring for and / or making up keratin fibers, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion free of cyclic volatile silicone oil and free of microplastic filler, having good coverage properties to correct imperfections with a uniform result, good sensory properties such as ease of spreading, a non-greasy, powdery dry and simultaneously soft effect of the deposit after drying, and a good stability in stability tests at temperature.
[0013] Unexpectedly, the inventors have noted that it is possible to achieve these objectives with a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising:(i) at least one volatile alkane; and(ii) at least one non-volatile mixture of C15-C19 alkanes; and(iii) at least one volatile acyclic silicone oil; and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; c) at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; and d) at least one silicone emulsifying surfactant with an HLB < 8.0; said composition not containing any cyclic volatile silicone oil or microplastic filler.
[0014] This discovery forms the basis of the invention.Subjects of the invention
[0015] Thus, a first subject of the present invention is a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising:(i) at least one volatile alkane; and(ii) at least one non-volatile mixture of C15-C19 alkanes; and(iii) at least one volatile acyclic silicone oil; and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; c) at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; and d) at least one silicone emulsifying surfactant with an HLB < 8.0; said composition not containing any cyclic volatile silicone oil or microplastic filler.
[0016] A second subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for coating, notably making up, keratin materials, in particular the skin such as the face, the hands, the eyelids, the cheeks, comprising at least: the step of applying the composition, a composition as defined above, to said keratin materials.Definitions
[0017] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin material" notably means the skin such as the face, the body, the hands, the cheeks, the eyelids, the contour of the eyes.
[0018] The term "physiologically acceptable" means compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tautness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition.
[0019] A "water-in-oil emulsion" is understood to mean a composition comprising an oily phase and an aqueous phase which are immiscible; the aqueous phase being dispersed in the form of droplets in the oily phase (described as continuous) so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous composition.
[0020] A "composition free of cyclic volatile silicone oil" is understood to mean any composition comprising less than 1 .0% by weight of cyclic volatile silicone oil, indeed even less than 0.5% by weight, indeed even less than 0.1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, indeed even devoid of cyclic volatile silicone oil.
[0021] A "microplastic-free composition" is understood to mean any composition comprising less than 1 .0% by weight of microplastic(s), indeed even less than 0.5% by weight, indeed even less than 0.1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, indeed even devoid of microplastic.
[0022] An "oil" is understood to mean a fatty organic substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 105Pa).
[0023] For the purposes of the invention, a "volatile oil" is understood to mean any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10’3to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
[0024] For the purposes of the invention, a "volatile alkane" is understood to mean any alkane that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile alkane is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10’3to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
[0025] A "non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and notably having a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably of less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according tothe static method or by the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry as a function of the vapor pressure (OECD 104 standard).
[0026] A "non-volatile alkane" is understood to mean an alkane remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and notably having a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably of less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry as a function of the vapor pressure (OECD 104 standard).Oily phase
[0027] A cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention comprises a continuous oily phase containing:(i) at least one volatile alkane; and(ii) at least one non-volatile mixture of C15-C19 alkanes; and(iii) at least one volatile acyclic silicone oil.
[0028] The oily phase comprises at least one oil and optionally ingredients which are soluble or miscible in said phase.
[0029] The term "oil" means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 105Pa).
[0030] A composition of the invention can comprise an oily phase in a content ranging from 25% to 85% by weight, in particular from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Volatile alkanes (i)
[0031] The volatile alkanes (i) according to the invention may be chosen from branched Cs-C alkanes. Mention may notably be made of C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the Isopar® or Permethyl® trade names.
[0032] The volatile alkanes (i) according to the invention may also be chosen from linear C6-C14 alkanes.
[0033] Mention may be made, as examples of linear C6-C14 alkanes (i) suitable for the invention, of those described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007 / 068371 or WO 2008 / 155059 (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut kernel oil or palm oil.
[0034] Mention may also be made, as examples of linear C6-C14 alkanes (i) suitable for the invention, of n-hexane (Ce), n-heptane (C7), n-octane (Cs), n-nonane (C9), n- decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14) and mixtures thereof.
[0035] Mention may in particular be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97® and Parafol 14-97®, and also of mixtures thereof.
[0036] According to another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and of n- tetradecane is used. Use may in particular be made of the dodecane / tetradecane mixture in the 85 / 15 weight ratio sold by the company Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight 1214®.
[0037] According to yet another embodiment, use is made of a mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes with the INCI name: C9-12 Alkane, such as the product sold by the company Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight Silk®.
[0038] According to yet another embodiment, use is made of a mixture of n- undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13), such as those obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis and such as that sold under the trade name Cetiol Ultimate® by the company BASF.
[0039] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile alkane is isododecane.
[0040] Preferably, the volatile alkane(s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 3% to 14% by weight, in particular from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Non-volatile mixture of linear C15-C19 alkanes (ii)
[0041] The oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises ii) at least one non-volatile mixture of linear C15-C19 alkanes such as the products sold under the references Emogreen L19® and Emosmart L19® from SEPPIC.
[0042] The mixture (ii) of C15-C19 alkanes is preferably present in the composition of the invention in contents ranging from 6% to 13% by weight, preferably from 5% to 11 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Acyclic volatile silicone oils (iii)
[0043] According to the invention, the acyclic volatile silicone oils (iii) according to the invention are preferably chosen from:- the acyclic linear silicones of formula (I): [Chem 1]:R3SiO-(R2SiO)n-SiR3 (I) in which R, which may be identical or different, denotes:- a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine atoms or with one or more hydroxyl groups, or- a hydroxyl group, it being possible for one of the R radicals to be a phenyl group, n is an integer ranging from 0 to 8, preferably ranging from 2 to 6 and better still ranging from 3 to 5, the silicone compound of formula (I) containing at most 15 carbon atoms,- the branched silicones of formula (II) or (III) below:[Chem 2] R3SiO-[(R3SiO)RSiO]-(R2SiO)x-SiR3 (II) or[Chem 3] [R3SiO]4Si (III) in which R, which may be identical or different, denotes:- a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine atoms or with one or more hydroxyl groups, or- a hydroxyl group, one of the radicals R possibly being a phenyl group, x is an integer ranging from 0 to 8, the silicone compound of formula (II) or (III) containing at most 15 carbon atoms.
[0044] Preferably, for the compounds of formulae (I), (II) and (III), the ratio between the number of carbon atoms and the number of silicon atoms is between 2.25 and 4.33.
[0045] The silicones of formulae (I) to (III) may be prepared according to the known processes for synthesizing silicone compounds.
[0046] Examples of acyclic volatile silicones that can be used according to the invention are indicated below; these silicones may be used alone or as a mixture.
[0047] Among the silicones of formula (I) that may be mentioned are: a) The disiloxanes (L2) below: hexamethyldisiloxane, notably sold under the name DC 200 Fluid 0.65® cSt by the company Dow Corning1 .3-di-tert-butyl-1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethyldisiloxane;1 .3-dipropyl-1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethyldisiloxane; heptylpentamethyldisiloxane;1 , 1 ,1 -triethyl-3,3,3-trimethyldisiloxane; hexaethyldisiloxane;1 .1 .3.3-tetramethyl-1 ,3-bis(2-methylpropyl)disiloxane; pentamethyloctyldisiloxane;1 ,1 ,1 -trimethy I-3, 3, 3-tris( 1 -methylethyl)disiloxane;1 -buty l-3-ethy 1-1 , 1 ,3-trimethyl-3-propyldisiloxane; pentamethylpentyldisiloxane;1 -buty 1-1 , 1 ,3,3-tetramethyl-3-(1 -methylethyl)disiloxane;1 .1 .3.3-tetramethyl-1 , 3-bis( 1 -methylpropyl)disiloxane;1 .1 .3-triethyl-1 ,3,3-tripropyldisiloxane;(3,3-dimethylbutyl)pentamethyldisiloxane;(3-methylbutyl)pentamethyldisiloxane;(3-methylpentyl)pentamethyldisiloxane;1 ,1 ,1 -triethy I-3, 3-d imethy l-3-propy Idisi loxane; 1 -(1 , 1 -dimethylethyl)-1 , 1 ,3,3,3- pentamethyldisiloxane;1 .1 .1 -trimethyl-3,3,3-tripropyldisiloxane;1 .3-dimethyl-1 , 1 , 3, 3-tetrakis( 1 -methylethyl)disiloxane;1 .1 -dibutyl-1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyldisiloxane;1 .1 .3.3-tetramethyl-1 , 3-bis( 1 -methylethyl)disiloxane;1 .1 .1 .3-tetramethyl-3,3-bis(1 -methylethyl)disiloxane;1 .1 .1 .3-tetramethyl-3,3-dipropyldisiloxane;1 .1 .3.3-tetramethyl-1 ,3-bis(3-methylbutyl)disiloxane; butylpentamethyldisiloxane; pentaethylmethyldisiloxane;1 .1 .3.3-tetramethyl-1 ,3-dipentyldisiloxane;1 .3-dimethyl-1 , 1 ,3,3-tetrapropyldisiloxane;1 .1 .1 .3-tetraethyl-3,3-dimethyldisiloxane;1 .1 .1 -triethy I-3, 3, 3-tripropy Idisi loxane;1 .3-dibutyl-1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethyldisiloxane; hexylpentamethyldisiloxane; b) the trisiloxanes (L3) below:- octamethyltrisiloxane, in particular sold under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1 CS® by the company Dow Corning;3-pentyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane;1 -hexyl-1 , 1 ,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane;1 .1 .1 .3.3.5.5-heptamethyl-5-octyltrisiloxane;1 .1 .1 .3.5.5.5-heptamethyl-3-octyltrisiloxane, sold especially under the name Silsoft 034® by the company OSI;1 .1 .1 .3.5.5.5-heptamethyl-3-hexyltrisiloxane, sold especially under the name DC 2-1731® by the company Dow Coming;.1 .3.3.5.5-hexamethyl-1 ,5-dipropyltrisiloxane; -(1 -ethyl buty l)-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; .1 .1 .3.5.5.5-heptamethyl-3-(1 -methylpentyl)trisiloxane; .5-diethyl-1 ,1 ,3,3,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane; .1 .1 .3.5.5.5-heptamethyl-3-(1 -methylpropyl)trisiloxane; -(1 , 1 -dimethylethyl)-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; .1 .1 .5.5.5-hexamethyl-3,3-bis(1 -methylethyl)trisiloxane; .1 .1 .3.3.5.5-hexamethyl-1 ,5-bis(1 -methylpropyl)trisiloxane; .5-bis(1 ,1 -dimethylethyl)-1 ,1 ,3,3,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane;-(3,3-dimethylbutyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; .1 .1 .3.5.5.5-heptamethyl-3-(3-methylbutyl)trisiloxane; .1 .1 .3.5.5.5-heptamethyl-3-(3-methylpentyl)trisiloxane; .1 .1 .3.5.5.5-heptamethyl-3-(2-methylpropyl)trisiloxane; -buty 1-1 , 1 ,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; .1 .1 .3.5.5.5-heptamethyl-3-propyltrisiloxane; -isohexyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; .3.5-triethyl-1 ,1 ,3,5,5-pentamethyltrisiloxane; -buty 1-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; -tert-pentyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; .1 .1 .5.5.5-hexamethyl-3,3-dipropyltrisiloxane; .3-diethyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,5,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane; .5-dibutyl-1 ,1 ,3,3,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane; .1 .1 .5.5.5-hexaethyl-3,3-dimethyltrisiloxane; .3-dibutyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,5,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane; -ethy 1-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; -heptyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane;1 -ethyl-1 , 1 ,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; c) the tetrasiloxanes (L4) below: decamethyltetrasiloxane;1 .1 .3.3.5.5.7.7-octamethyl-1 ,7-dipropyltetrasiloxane;1 .1 .1 .3.3.5.7.7.7-nonamethyl-5-(1 -methylethyl)tetrasiloxane;1 -butyl-1 , 1 ,3,3,5,5,7,7,7-nonamethyltetrasiloxane;3.5-diethyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,7,7,7-octamethyltetrasiloxane;1 .3.5.7-tetraethyl-1 ,1 ,3,5,7,7-hexamethyltetrasiloxane;3.3.5.5-tetraethy 1-1 ,1 ,1 ,7,7,7-hexamethyltetrasiloxane;1 .1 .1 .3.3.5.5.7.7-nonamethyl-7-phenyltetrasiloxane;3.3-diethyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,5,5,7,7,7-octamethyltetrasiloxane;1 .1 .1 .3.3.5.7.7.7-nonamethyl-5-phenyltetrasiloxane; d) the pentasiloxanes (L5) below: dodecamethylpentasiloxane;1 .1 .3.3.5.5.7.7.9.9-decamethyl-1 ,9-dipropylpentasiloxane;3.3.5.5.7.7-hexaethyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,9,9,9-hexamethylpentasiloxane;1 .1 .1 .3.3.5.7.7.9.9.9-undecamethyl-5-phenylpentasiloxane;1 -butyl-1 , 1 ,3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-undecamethylpentasiloxane;3.3-diethyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-decamethylpentasiloxane;1 .3.5.7.9-pentaethyl-1 ,1 ,3,5,7,9,9-heptamethylpentasiloxane;3.5.7-triethyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,7,9,9,9-nonamethylpentasiloxane;1 ,1 ,1 -triethyl-3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-nonamethylpentasiloxane; e) the hexasiloxanes (L6) below:1 -butyl-1 , 1 ,3, 3, 5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11 ,11 ,11 -tridecamethylhexasiloxane;3.5.7.9-tetraethy 1-1 ,1 ,1 ,3, 5, 7, 9, 11 ,11 ,11 -decamethylhexasiloxane; tetradecamethylhexasiloxane;f) hexadecamethylheptasiloxane (L7): q) octadecamethyloctasiloxane (L8).Among the silicones of formula (II) that may be mentioned are: a) the tetrasiloxanes (L4) below:2-[3, 3, 3-trimethy 1-1 , 1 -bis[(trimethy Isi ly l)oxy]disiloxany l]ethy I ;1 .1 .1 .5.5.5-hexamethyl-3-(2-methylpropyl)-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane;3-(1 ,1 -dimethylethyl)-1 ,1 ,1 ,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane;3-butyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane;1 .1 .1 .5.5.5-hexamethyl-3-propyl-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane;3-ethyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane;1 ,1 ,1 -triethyl-3,5,5,5-tetramethyl-3-(trimethylsiloxy)trisiloxane;3-methyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3-[trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane;3-[(dimethylphenylsilyl)oxy]-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane;1 .1 .1 .5.5.5-hexamethyl-3-(2-methylpentyl)-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane;1 .1 .1 .5.5.5-hexamethyl-3-(4-methylpentyl)-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane;3-hexyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane;1 .1 .1 .3.5.5.5-heptamethyl-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane; b) the pentasiloxanes (L5) below:1 .1 .1 .3.5.5.7.7.7-nonamethyl-3-(trimethylsiloxy)tetrasiloxane;1 .1 .1 .3.3.7.7.7-octamethyl-5-phenyl-5-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]tetrasiloxane; c) the heptasiloxane (L7) below:1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,11 ,11 ,11 -tridecamethyl-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]hexasiloxane.
[0048] Among the silicones of formula (III), mention may be made of:1 .1 .1 .5.5.5-hexamethyl-3,3-bis(trimethylsiloxy)trisiloxane.
[0049] Use may also be made of other volatile silicone oils chosen from: a) the tetrasiloxanes (L4) below:2.2.8.8-tetramethyl-5-[(pentamethyldisiloxanyl)methyl]-3,7-dioxa-2,8- disilanonane;2.2.5.8.8-pentamethyl-5-[(trimethylsilyl)methoxy]-4,6-dioxa-2,5,8-trisilanonane;1 ,3-dimethyl-1 , 3-bis[(trimethylsilyl)methyl]-1 ,3-disiloxanediol;3-ethy 1-1 ,1 ,1 ,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3-[3-(trimethylsiloxy)propyl]trisiloxane;1 .1 .1 .5.5.5-hexamethyl-3-phenyl-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane (Dow 556 Fluid®); b) the pentasiloxanes (L5) below:2, 2, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11 ,11 ,16,16-decamethyl-3,8, 10, 15-tetraoxa-2,7,9, 11 ,16- pentasilaheptadecane; silicic acid tetrakis[(trimethylsilyl)methyl] ester; c) the hexasiloxanes (L6) below:3.5-diethyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,7,7,7-hexamethyl-3,5-bis[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]tetrasiloxane,1 .1 .1 .3.5.7.7.7-octamethyl-3,5-bis[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]tetrasiloxane; d) the heptasiloxane (L7) below:1 .1 .1 .3.7.7.7-heptamethyl-3,5,5-tris[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]tetrasiloxane; e) the octasiloxanes (L8) below:1 .1 .1 .3.5.5.9.9.9-nonamethyl-3,7,7-tris[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]pentasiloxane;1 .1 .1 .3.5.7.9.9.9-nonamethyl-3,5,7-tris[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]pentasiloxane;1 .1 .1 .7.7.7-hexamethyl-3,3,5,5-tetrakis[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]tetrasiloxane.
[0050] The acyclic volatile silicone oils according to the invention preferably have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 0.5 to 8 centistokes (from 0.5 to 8 mm2 / s).
[0051] The viscosity measurement method used in the invention to characterize the silicone oils according to the invention may be the "kinematic viscosity at 25°C raw product CID-012-01 " or the "Ubbelohde viscosity at 25°C DIN 51562-1 PV04001 ".
[0052] Among the acyclic volatile silicone oils according to the invention, linear acyclic volatile silicone oils will more particularly be chosen, and more particularly: - octamethyltrisiloxane, in particular sold under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1 CS by the company Dow Corning;- decamethyltetrasiloxane, in particular sold under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1 .5CS® by the company Dow Coming;- dodecamethylpentasiloxane, such as the commercial products sold under the names KF-96L-2CS®, DM-Fluid-2CS® by Shin-Etsu; Berb- DM2® by BRB International or Silicone Fluid 2CS® by Dow Corning;- mixtures thereof, and more particularly dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
[0053] Preferably, the acyclic volatile silicone oil(s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 4% to 15% by weight, in particular from 7% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Non-volatile silicone oils (iv)
[0054] According to a particular form, the oily phase of the composition of the invention further comprises iv) at least one non-volatile silicone oil.
[0055] Non-volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include:- polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone) in particular with a viscosity ranging from 50 to 500 mm2 / s (cSt), notably 350 mm2 / s (cSt), such as the commercial products sold under the names Belsil DM 350® from the company Wacker, Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid® 350CS by the company Dow Coming; polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 50 to 150 mm2 / s (cSt), notably 100 mm2 / s (cSt) such as the commercial products sold under the names Belsil DM 100® from the company Wacker, Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 100CS® by the company Dow Coming.- phenyl silicone oils such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0056] Preferably, the non-volatile silicone oil(s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 4% to 15% by weight, in particular from 7% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Aqueous phase
[0057] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally water-soluble or water- miscible ingredients, such as water-soluble organic solvents.
[0058] Mention may in particular be made, among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, of lower monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol,gylcerol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
[0059] A water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and / or a spring water.
[0060] A water suitable for the invention may also be a demineralized water.
[0061] A composition of the invention can comprise water in a content varying from 20% to 50% by weight and even more preferably from 30% to 45% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.Hydrophobic silica aerogel
[0062] The composition of the invention contains at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.
[0063] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
[0064] They are generally synthesized by a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W, Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.
[0065] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention preferably have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as the volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, better still from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.
[0066] The specific surface area per unit of mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
[0067] The sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 2000® particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0068] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0069] The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention can advantageously have a tap density r ranging from 0.02 to 0.10 g / cm3, preferably from 0.03 to 0.08 g / cm3, in particular ranging from 0.05 to 0.08 g / cm3.
[0070] In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the tap density protocol:40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on a Stav 2003® machine from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 tapping actions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of tapped powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The tap density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this instance 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3and m in g).
[0071] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3and better still from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.
[0072] The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the relationship: SV = SM x r where r is the tap density expressed in g / cm3and SM is the specific surface area per unit of mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.
[0073] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 12 ml / g.
[0074] The absorption capacity measured at the wet point, denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil which it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
[0075] It is measured according to the wet point method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point, described below: An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until a conglomerate of oil and powder has formed. From this point, the oil is added at the rate of one drop at a time and the mixture is subsequently triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread over the glass plate without cracks or the formation of lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.
[0076] The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably aerogels of silylated silica (INCI name: Silica Silylate).
[0077] The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica of which the surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
[0078] As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to the document US 7 470 725.
[0079] Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface- modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably having the INCI name Silica Silylate.
[0080] As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, an example that may be mentioned is the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260® or VM-2270® (INCI name: Silica Silylate) by the company Dow Coming, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0081] Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201®, Aerogel OGD 201® and Aerogel TLD 203®, Enova Aerogel MT 1100® and Enova Aerogel MT 1200®.
[0082] Use will preferably be made of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica Silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0083] The silica aerogel particles, in particular silylated silica aerogel particles, may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 13%, preferably in a content ranging from 1 % to 5% by weight and in particular ranging from 1 % to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Silicone emulsifying surfactants with an HLB < 8.0
[0084] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone emulsifying surfactant with an HLB less than or equal to 8.0.
[0085] For the purposes of the present invention, an "emulsifying surfactant" is understood to mean an amphiphilic surfactant compound, i.e. one which contains two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase) and the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term "HLB" is well known and is described, for example, in "The HLB System. A Time-saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB is less than or equal to 8.0 for the preparation of W / O emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention may be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.
[0086] For the purposes of the present invention, a "silicone emulsifying surfactant" is understood to mean a polyorganosiloxane comprising in its structure at least one hydrophilic chain, in particular at least one polyoxyalkylenated (i.e. polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylated) chain or a polyglycerolated chain.
[0087] The silicone emulsifying surfactant(s) with an HLB < 8.0 is (are), preferably, present in the composition in contents ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1 % to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0088] Among the silicone emulsifying surfactant(s) with an HLB < 8, mention may be made of dimethicone copolyols such as the product having the INCI name DIMETHICONE (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE (HLB = 2) sold under the brand name X-22-6711 D® by the company Shin-Etsu, alkyldimethicone copolyols such as cetyldimethicone copolyol, for instance CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE (HLB = 5), such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by the company Evonik and the mixture of cetyldimethicone copolyol, of polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and of hexyl laurate, sold under the name Abil WE 09® by the company Evonik having the INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL -4 ISOSTEARATE (AND) CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE (AND) HEXYL LAURATE.
[0089] According to a particular form, the composition of the invention comprises at least one mixture of silicone emulsifying surfactants with an HLB < 8.0 which is a mixture of DIMETHICONE, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE and CETYL PEG / PPG- 10 / 1 DIMETHICONE and more particularly a mixture of DIMETHICONE, PEG / PPG- 18 / 18 DIMETHICONE and CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE and POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE.
[0090] According to a particular form of the invention, the silicone emulsifying surfactant with an HLB < 8.0 may be chosen from emulsifying silicone elastomers.
[0091] The term "silicone elastomer" is understood to mean a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane that has viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and possesses a limited stretchability and contractability. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching.
[0092] The emulsifying silicone elastomer may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers
[0093] The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane that may be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of a polyoxyalkylene containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.
[0094] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A1 ) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B1 ) of polyoxyalkylene containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence (C1 ) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in patents US 5 236 986 and US 5 412 004.
[0095] In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) and of trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
[0096] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A1 ) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
[0097] Compound (A1 ) may thus be selected from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy- terminated dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrosiloxane / laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.
[0098] Compound (C1 ) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
[0099] Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers may be formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenes containing at least two vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane.
[0100] The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer according to the invention is preferably mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or one silicone oil to form agel. In these gels, the polyoxyalkylenated elastomer may be in the form of non- spherical particles.
[0101] Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are described especially in patents US 5 236 986, US 5412 004, US 5 837 793 and US 5 811 487.
[0102] As polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, use may be made of those having the following INCI names:Dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15-Crosspolymer,PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer,PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer,PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer,PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer,PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer,PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.
[0103] They are especially sold under the KSG® names by the company Shin-Etsu:KSG-210®; INCI name: Dimethicone and Dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15-Crosspolymer;KSG-310®; INCI name: PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Mineral Oil;KSG-320®; INCI name: PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Isododecane;KSG-330®; INCI name: PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Triethylhexanoin;KSG-340®; INCI name: Squalane (and) PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
[0104] Mention may also be made of the product sold under the name Dow Corning EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend® by the company Dow Coming for the compound with the INCI name: PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer.Polyqlycerolated silicone elastomers
[0105] The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane that may be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of polyglycerolated compounds containing ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
[0106] Preferably, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of glycerolated compounds containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst.
[0107] In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyglycerolated compound and of trimethylsiloxy- terminated methylhydropolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
[0108] Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking is performed by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).
[0109] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.
[0110] Compound (A) can have any molecular structure, in particular a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.
[0111] Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, notably so as to be readily miscible with compound (B).
[0112] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group. Preferably, said organic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.
[0113] Compound (A) may thus be selected from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy- terminated dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrosiloxane / laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.
[0114] Compound (B) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to the formula (B1) below:CmH2m-1-O-[Gly]n-CmH2m-1 (B') in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 2 to 100, preferably ranging from 2 to 50, preferably n ranging from 2 to 20, preferably ranging from 2 to 10 and preferentially ranging from 2 to 5, and in particular n is equal to 3; Gly denotes:-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O- or -CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O-
[0115] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 4.
[0116] It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range from 1 / 1 to 20 / 1 .
[0117] Compound (C) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
[0118] Catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
[0119] The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer according to the invention is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or one silicone oil to form a gel. Inthese gels, the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.
[0120] Such elastomers are notably described in patent application WO 2004 / 024798.
[0121] Use may be made, as polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, of the following compounds having the INCI name:Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer,Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.
[0122] They are especially sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the following names:KSG-710®; INCI name: Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer and Dimethicone;KSG-810®; INCI name: Mineral Oil and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer;KSG-820®; INCI name: Isododecane and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer;KSG-830®; INCI name: Triethylhexanoin and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer;KSG-840®; INCI name: Squalane and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer.Pulverulent dyestuff
[0123] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition also comprises at least one pulverulent colorant.
[0124] The pulverulent colorants can be chosen from coloring pigments, nacres, optical-effect pigments, and mixtures thereof.
[0125] The term "pigments" means white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit.
[0126] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
[0127] The term "mineral pigment" refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2Os, TisOs, Ti2Os, TiO, ZrO2 as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb20s, CeO2 or ZnS.
[0128] The size of the pigment that is of use in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 pm.
[0129] According to one particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D
[0050] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 pm.
[0130] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows an "effective" particle diameter to be determined. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0131] D
[0050] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.
[0132] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxides, titanium dioxides, and mixtures thereof. Mention may more particularly be made, by way of examples, of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, which are coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example sold under the reference NAI® by the company Miyoshi Kasei.
[0133] As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.
[0134] The term "nacres" should be understood as meaning colored particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized, and which have a color effect via optical interference.
[0135] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an iron oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an organic dye and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or of organic colorants.
[0136] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
[0137] Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
[0138] The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or tint.
[0139] Among the pigments that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those having an optical effect other than a simple conventional coloring effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect such as produced by conventional colorants, for instance monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, the term "stabilized" means lacking the effect of variability of the color with the angle of observation or in response to a temperature change.
[0140] For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibers, notably interference fibers. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined in order simultaneously to afford two effects, or even a novel effect in accordance with the invention.
[0141] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.
[0142] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.
[0143] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show a predominant affinity for an oily phase, which can then convey them.
[0144] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.
[0145] For the purposes of the invention, the "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.
[0146] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature that are well known to a person skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.
[0147] The surface agent may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.
[0148] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists in coating the pigments.
[0149] The coating may represent from 0.1 % to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.
[0150] The coating may be produced, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
[0151] The coating may be produced, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is notably described in patent US 4 578266.
[0152] The chemical surface treatment can consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.
[0153] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, it is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.
[0154] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from siliconesurface agents; fluoro surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N- acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl tri isosteary I titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
[0155] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound.
[0156] According to one particular embodiment, the colorant is an organic pigment, which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.
[0157] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.
[0158] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0159] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.
[0160] The pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0161] The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
[0162] Mention may be made, among the organic dyes, of cochineal carmine.Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D&C Red 27 (Cl 45410), D&C Orange 10 (Cl 45425), D&C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D&C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D&C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D&C Green (Cl 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (Cl 77 002), D&C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).
[0163] An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (Cl 15 850:1 ).
[0164] Preferably, the pulverulent colorant(s) is (are) present, preferably, in the composition in a content ranging from 1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Cosmetic compositions
[0165] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.
[0166] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally suited to the nature of the support onto which the composition has to be applied, and also to the appearance under which the composition has to be packaged.
[0167] The compositions according to the invention can additionally comprise additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products, such as:- additional active agents, such as vitamins A, C and E, hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof;- sunscreens;- fat-soluble or water-soluble colorants;- additional fillers other than the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles;- lipophilic thickeners;- hydrophilic thickeners;- co-emulsifiers;- fragrances;- preserving agents;- antioxidants;- chelating agents;- neutralizing agents;- and mixtures thereof.
[0168] It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention so that the cosmetic properties desired for these are not thereby affected.Additional colorants
[0169] A composition according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one additional water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant and preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0170] For obvious reasons, this amount is liable to vary significantly with regard to the desired intensity of the color effect and to the color intensity provided by the colorants under consideration, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of a person skilled in the art.
[0171] The additional colorants that are suitable for use in the invention may be fatsoluble.
[0172] For the purposes of the invention, the term "fat-soluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with a fatty substance, and which is capable of imparting color.
[0173] As fat-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of synthetic or natural fat-soluble dyes, for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21 , DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ([3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.
[0174] The additional colorants that are suitable for use in the invention may be water-soluble.
[0175] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or in water-miscible solvents, and which is capable of imparting color.
[0176] As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made notably of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4,DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1 , betanine (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elder), caramel and riboflavin.Additional fillers
[0177] The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one additional filler other than the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.
[0178] Preferably, they will be chosen from mineral or organic fillers which are natural or of natural origin.
[0179] The additional fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
[0180] The additional fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface- coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes the dispersion and the compatibility of the filler in the composition. b) Mineral fillers
[0181] As examples of additional mineral fillers, mention may be made of talcs, natural or synthetic micas, such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, silica such as amorphous silica microspheres, for instance the commercial product sold under the name SOLESPHERE H 51® or SUNSPHERE H 51® by the company AGO SI- TECH, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or composites of silica and of titanium dioxide, such as the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass.
[0182] Preferably, the additional mineral filler(s) is (are) present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 15% by weight, more particularly from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. b) Organic fillers
[0183] Mention may be made, as examples of organic fillers, of micronized natural waxes; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc,magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine; or cellulose powders, such as that sold by Daito in the Cellulobeads® range.Lipophilic thickeners
[0184] Depending on the viscosity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, one or more thickeners which are lipophilic, that is to say soluble or dispersible in the oily phase, may be incorporated into a composition of the invention.
[0185] Preferably, the lipophilic thickeners will be chosen from natural gelling agents or gelling agents of natural origin.
[0186] Mention may be made, for example, as lipophilic gelling agents, of modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone Gel VS38® from Rheox), hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium Hectorite), such as the product sold under the name Bentone 38 CE® by the company Rheox.
[0187] According to a specific embodiment, said composition additionally comprises j) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent which is natural or of natural origin and / or at least one lipophilic gelling agent which is natural or of natural origin, and more preferentially at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from modified clays, and more particularly a hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium Hectorite), such as the product sold under the name Bentone 38 CE® by the company Rheox or the product Bentone 38VCG from the company Elementis.Hydrophilic thickeners
[0188] Depending on the viscosity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, one or more thickeners which are hydrophilic, that is to say soluble or dispersible in the aqueous phase, may be incorporated into a composition of the invention.
[0189] Preferably, the hydrophilic thickeners will be chosen from natural gelling agents or gelling agents of natural origin.
[0190] As examples of hydrophilic thickeners, mention may be made of celluloses such as carboxymethylcellulose, for instance the product having the INCI name: CELLULOSE GUM such as the commercial product BLANOSE CMC 7M8SF® from the company ASHLAND.
[0191] Mention may be made of native starches and chemically modified starches, for instance the product with the INCI name ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE(DRY FLO PLUS® -AKZO NOBEL).
[0192] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.
[0193] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally suited to the nature of the support onto which the composition has to be applied, and also to the appearance under which the composition has to be packaged.
[0194] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a composition for caring for the skin, notably of the body or of the face, in particular of the face.
[0195] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, in particular of the face.
[0196] Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a base composition for makeup.
[0197] A composition of the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a foundation.
[0198] According to another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and especially the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a face powder.
[0199] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.Packaging and applicators
[0200] The compositions according to the invention may be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment that comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closing member.
[0201] The container may be in any suitable form. It can in particular be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar or a case.
[0202] The closing member may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid or a cover, notably of the type including a body fixed to the container and a caparticulated on the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, in particular a pump, a valve or a shutter.
[0203] The container may be combined with an applicator, notably in the form of a fine brush, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 722 380. The applicator can be in the form of a block of foam or of elastomer. The applicator may be free (sponge) or securely fastened to a stem borne by the closing member, as described, for example, in patent US 5492 426. The applicator can be integral with the container, such as described, for example, in patent FR 2 761 959.
[0204] The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.
[0205] The closing member can be coupled to the container by screwing.Alternatively, the coupling between the closing member and the container is done other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening or by gripping. The term "click-fastening" is understood in particular to mean any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closing member, followed by return to the elastically unconstrained position of said portion after the crossing of the bead or cord.
[0206] The container may be at least partially made of thermoplastic material. Mention may be made, as examples of thermoplastic materials, of polypropylene or polyethylene.
[0207] The container may have rigid or deformable walls, notably in the form of a tube or a tube bottle.
[0208] The container may comprise means intended to bring about or facilitate the dispensing of the composition. By way of example, the container may have deformable walls so as to make the composition exit in response to excess pressure inside the container, which excess pressure is brought about by the elastic (or nonelastic) squeezing of the walls of the container.
[0209] The container can be equipped with a wiper positioned in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and optionally the stem to which it may be integrally attached. Such a wiper is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.
[0210] Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise mentioned.
[0211] The expressions "of between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.
[0212] The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed as percentages by weight.Examples 1 to 6
[0213] Comparative examples 1 to 6 were prepared, example 1 being according to the invention and examples 2 to 6 being outside the invention.
[0214] [Table 1](*) outside the inventionPreparation of the compositions
[0215] The components of phase A1 were weighed out and the mixture was stirred at 85°C so as to obtain a homogeneous phase, and then cooled to 65°C.
[0216] Next, the components of A2 were weighed out and introduced into A1 , and the combined mixture is cooled to 30°C. The components of A3 were then added.
[0217] The pre-prepared aqueous phase B was emulsified in phase A with stirring for 20 minutes at 2500 rpm.
[0218] To prepare C, the pigments were milled in an air jet mill with 11.1 %, relative to their weight, of synthetic fluorophlogopite. Then C was introduced into the A+B emulsion with stirring for 10 minutes at 1500 rpm.
[0219] Contrary to example 1 of the invention, example 6 outside the invention with a non-silicone emulsifying surfactant exhibited phase separation at the surface, which appeared as early as after 1 month at room temperature, and was accentuated when the emulsion was stored at a higher temperature, for example at 37°C.
[0220] A panel of 14 individuals tested the foundations, on the face, with an amount of 0.075 ml of each example.
[0221] The following cosmetic criteria were evaluated on a scale of 0 to 15. The higher the score, the greater the cosmetic effect.
[0222] The results obtained are indicated in the following table.
[0223] [Table 2]
[0224] Example 1 according to the invention exhibited a good compromise between all of the cosmetic criteria tested, unlike:- example 2 outside the invention containing no volatile alkane (isododecane) which was judged to take too long to dry, leaving a relatively soft, greasy film present on the skin after drying;- example 3 outside the invention containing no acyclic volatile silicone oil(DIMETHICONE 2 cSt) produced a film that was not very soft and not very slippery and did not leave a powdery dry feeling;- example 4 outside the invention containing no C15-19 Alkane produced a film that was not very soft and not very slippery, a less uniform makeup result and did not leave a powdery dry feeling;- example 5 outside the invention containing SILICA SILYLATE hydrophobic silica aerogel was judged to take too long to dry, and to give a possible powdery dry feeling and a less uniform makeup result.
Claims
Claims
1. A composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising:(i) at least one volatile alkane; and(ii) at least one non-volatile mixture of C15-C19 alkanes; and(iii) at least one volatile acyclic silicone oil; and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; c) at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; and d) at least one silicone emulsifying surfactant with an HLB < 8.0; said composition not containing any cyclic volatile silicone oil or microplastic filler.
2. The composition as claimed in claim 1 , comprising the oily phase in a content ranging from 25% to 85%, in particular from 30% to 50%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. The composition as claimed in either one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile alkane is isododecane.
4. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile alkane(s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 3% to 14% by weight, in particular from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mixture (ii) of C15-C19 alkanes is present in contents ranging from 6% to 13% by weight, preferably from 8% to 11 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the acyclic volatile silicone oil is chosen from:- octamethyltrisiloxane,- decamethyltetrasiloxane,- dodecamethylpentasiloxane,- mixtures thereof, and more particularly dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
7. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the acyclic volatile silicone oil(s) is (are) present in contents ranging from 4% to 15% byweight, preferably from 7% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily phase further comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil.
9. The composition as claimed in claim 8, wherein the non-volatile silicone oil(s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 4% to 15% by weight, in particular from 7% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising water in a content varying from 20% to 50% by weight and even more preferably from 30% to 48% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably having the INCI name Silica Silylate.
12. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silica aerogel particles are present in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 1.3%, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, in particular ranging from 0.1 % to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone emulsifying surfactant(s) is (are) present in contents ranging from 0.1 % to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 1 % to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one mixture of silicone emulsifying surfactants with an HLB < 8.0 which is a mixture of DIMETHICONE, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE and CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE and more particularly a mixture of DIMETHICONE, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE and CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE and POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE.
15. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one pulverulent colorant.
16. The composition as claimed in claim 15, wherein the pulverulent colorant(s) is (are) present in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight and even more particularly from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. The composition as claimed in claim 15 or 16, wherein the pulverulent colorant(s) is (are) chosen from iron oxides, titanium dioxides, and mixtures thereof.
18. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additive chosen from:- active agents, such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C and B3, adenosine and hyaluronic acid and its salts;- ceramides;- inorganic UV-screening agents;- additional colorants;- fillers;- hydrophilic gelling agents;- lipophilic gelling agents;- fragrances;- preserving agents;- and mixtures thereof.
19. A cosmetic process for coating, notably making up, keratin materials, in particular the skin such as the face, the hands, the eyelids, the cheeks, comprising at least: the step of applying a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, to said keratin materials.
Citation Information
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